Westlake Publishing Forums

Hey guys,

I have just started a new project in 1/87 scale "D. Krakow Auto Repair"  ( DaKra ). Dave will help me out with some detail parts. I need some help (if anybody has the time) with some interior pictures of U.S. auto repair shops from the 1930´s. Pictures of different buildings I have found quite a few but not many interior pictures. Your help would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Anders :o

I'm glad to see you at this project after what I mentionned on the furniture thread. I think you're the perfect guy to make the perfect model.
When I built my version of Chuck's Red Oak Garage (the Doan Valley Garage), I used many pictures on Chuck's Fotki page as an inspiration. But I don't know if you want to follow the same concept.

Anders here's a couple to get you started. Pat

http://www.shorpy.com/node/7015

http://www.shorpy.com/node/5581

http://www.shorpy.com/node/4113

Thanks Frédéric and Pat. That picture with all the spare parts is terrific and will be most usefull. Have a feeling I have to somewhat reduce the number of spare parts.

Anders ??? ;D

Anders is sending me an article about an excellent, recently completed, HO scale railroad shop diorama for the April Industrial Annual. (He's also sending, separately, samples of those crackle paint wood boards he's been experimenting with.) -- Russ

Hah, you know you made the big time in this hobby when somebody names their greasy HO scale garage after you  ;D   Thanks Anders, you do beautiful work and I'm looking forward to seeing this come together.   

Aside from what's on Shorpy, I don't have a lot in my files.    Here's one photo, plus a drawing which is part of a series of beautiful garage drawings online, by a French illustrator.   I know I found it through a posting on this forum, details are hazy though.    :-\   

Dave

Anders -- Looking forward to your project (and article!)

Dave --
1)  D'you know if that cabinet-enclosed-thingy in your first photo is or might be a heater?  Could use something like that ... hmm.
2)  D'ya have a link to more of those French drawings?  And/or name of the illustrator?

Cheers / thanks,
Dallas

Heres one i got of the web.......Lot's of shops had there tools on a board displayed in the open which i like ;) adds lots of interest.....the only problem is your going to have to model Lot's of tools to make it look right?  Out side grease rack would be a nice detail to.....  Craig

Anders, look here for the French illustrator's drawings

http://www.graphite-garage.com/illustration/ATELIERS/ateliers.html

Thanks everyone for great pics. Dallas.....that "heater" is very stylish. Just a wild guess but to me it looks more like a radio! ???

Anders ;D

Oh yeah!  Guess I shoulda had my computer glasses on.  8)

But ... does anyone happen to have pix of portable shop heaters, similar vintage?

Thanks!
Dallas

Here is one version not really portable but still a shop heater. Modvid site - Sierra machine shop.

Anders ;D

PS. Maybe "the radio" is a shop heater afterall - just found this heater made of copper.

Western scale models makes/made those barrel heaters in O scale.
Would be easy to scratch in HO with a 55 gal drum.
Sorry but in Florida we dont have heaters in our shops so I can not give any ideas/help.
-Marty

Dallas,      I believe the [cabinet-enclosed-thingy] is a Radio or speaker  :)   Craig

Yeah, I had a kinda stupid Fred Sanford "wrong glasses" moments on that first one ... (which does look like a radio) ... but that "hammered copper" heater that Anders posted IS a heater in a cabinet ...

I had done a few searches with minimal results before ... but somehow mistaking a radio for a heater has magically lead to a tangent that's helpful ...

For those interested in PORTABLE shop heaters (ie, not sure where it's gonna end up in the finished shop or space is limited) ... try searching:
-- antique (or vintage) kerosene heater
-- antique (or vintage) oil heater
-- miracle smokeless oil heater
etc ...

A few samples below ... the third one IS an oil heater ... but looks more like a radio, jukebox or refrigerator to me!  Dang it, Lamont, these ain't the right glasses.  ;D 8)

Cheers,
Dallas

Good photos for the interior clutter file.  Funny how designers back then tried to class everything up with cabriole legs,  even the most mundane things like washing machines, stoves and kerosene heaters.   I noticed a similar trend today, every new appliance has swhooshy computer generated curves all over it. Pfui.   :P

Dave

Seeing that picture of the  Seigler-oil-heater, reminded me that we had a similar but not quite so fancy one, to heat our house in the 1950s, in side when you lifted the front off, was a very utilitarial rectangular oil tank with a wick & chimney on top

Hey guys,

Once again thanks for all the great pics. I will use all of them. So far the interior shot with the tool board came in very handy as you might be able to see. Here are some pics. of about 25% of what I have finished so far regarding the interior detail parts. Still have to finish a small lathe and drillpress that will be powered by an electrical motor and wait for more gaskets etc. from Dave to fill up those racks.
Not really sure I will use that large resin shelf in the background but it might be alright when filled up with tons of parts. Will wait to see what Dave can come up with.

All the other stuff workbench, crates, toolbox etc. are scratchbuilt from micro plywood. Couldn´t resist some crackle paint on the large crate.

Anders ??? ;D

More pics.

One more. messed up the last one!

Anders, all that stuff really looks great!

Wow! Very nice. I am working on a similar project of modern auto shop. I designed a set of modern car junk for Dave and because I am so lazy to finish the last bits he hasn't offered it on his site yet. ( I am sure Dave will send you a test version to get more even more clutter in there.) Your clutter looks really good!

I also ordered a few resin castings from this German maker: http://www.tl-modellbau.de/en/TL-Plus-Workshop1-87/

Thanks guys.....that German site is all news to me thanks a lot.

Anders ;D

Anders,
there are a couple of things that I am struggling with: First, I have hard time with my tool boards. While Dave makes probably the finest and smallest tools in the market, they are still fairly big. I am still trying to figure out a way to make these tools boards.

The other problem are motors and other engine parts. I am basically making up fantasy parts, since I have no idea what everything is in a garage or on a car. I try to use a lot of reference images, but I still have no real clue what I am building. I just love the mess.

Sweet! All that stuff looks great. Very nicely aged too.

Anders --

That's a wonderful collection of signs, tool boards, parts bins and "junque" that you've put together there.  Admire your (seemingly) rapid progress and eye for detail.  Very nice!

Cheers,
Dallas

Thanks everyone ! Eventually it will have the same atmosphere as the blacksmith area in my Machine Shop.

Anders ;D

Magnificent work, Anders. I'm eager to see how you put all these parts in your garage.

Can you guys believe Anders did all that in HO scale? Very impressive! He has sent me an article about the machine shop for the April Industrial Annual. Stand by to freak out. -- Russ

This is a testament to Ander's obvious skills AND Dave incredible HO parts.
That's a tough combination to beat.

Looks great Anders... most impressive in HO scale. Parts are spot on and thanks for posting the teaser image of the machine shop... looking forward to seeing more.

Paul

Thanks very much for your kind comments! If I hadn´t invested many, many years in HOn3 I wouldn´t be in this scale. All my work is for a logging layout set in the Pacific Northwest in the 1930´s. The ultimate scale for me would probably be 1/35 - might take a little detour and try something in that scale just for fun.

Anders ;D

That last shot of the Blacksmith shop is absolutely inspiring. I raced home after work last night to get back to my 1/87 shop furniture. I have started to assemble different shop items, not sure where this is going, because I have random stuff that can be found in wood shops, metal shops or auto shops.
The images show a mix of commercial castings or kits, some scratch built stuff and a lot custom pieces from VectorCut.

Here is a quick description of the individual piece.
- 2 green benches are scratch built, VectorCut drill press
- green desk and chair by VectorCut
- brown shelf for parts is scratch built
- green file cabinet by VectorCut
- blue work bench and lockers by TL-Models of Germany
- tool board scratch with Preiser tools
- unpainted car engine, scratch built
- unfinished tool box from Preiser
- unfinished table saw, scratchbuilt
- blue drill press from Preiser

The next image shows a few more (mostly commercial) parts:
- unpainted lathe from Preiser
- lockers  and scrap piece box from TL-Models
- all car jacks and compressor from Preiser
- some scratchbuilt, unpainted corner junk
- two palettes with tarps from TL-Models

My stuff is obviously modern era stuff, but most things are timeless or could be back-dated.

Another nice shop in the making!

Beautiful work, guys!  For me, its a thrill to see my products used, especially by model builders of your caliber.   

Anders, hope you can explain a little about how you made some of these pieces, the weathering on the signs is really nice, and the chisels and screw drivers must be hand made?

BKLN, where are the paper Dunkin Doughnuts coffee cups with cold coffee in the bottom, and the stained rims?   I have a modern light up soda vending machine in the works.   You need this stuff, if you're gonna make a convincing modern NYC garage!  :)

Dave 

Well, here is another little experiment. Another very common piece of junk in the urban landscape are old tires. After looking thru the whole market, I could never find any good old tires. Most tires from 1/87 modern cars were too wide. Most resin or white metal castings are out of proportion or have a profile that might work for some off-roading, but don't represent a regular car tire. One thing that bothered me with both was that none of them are hollow.

With a core of 5mm styrene tube and some walls and thread cut by VectorCut and a lot of patience I built a couple of tires and tire stacks. They are not fully painted, and some of them look a little sloppy. But I am happy with the outcome so far.

Edit: the tire on the bottom left is a solid rubber tire from a Busch model car. You can clearly see the donut shape vs the hollow scratchbuilt / lasercut tires. Car jacks are from Preiser.

I apologize for the crappy images. I was just so excited about Anders' work last night and wanted to contribute a little. Once the weather is a little more forgiving I will make it onto the roof to take some daylight pictures.

BKLN,  (do you have a name) ???

Some really neat furniture and details. A more modern garage would be a really nice companion here. Those coffee cups do they exist?   I haven´t seen these Vectorcut furniture before but I understand they were custom made for you. Excellent!

Dave,

Tools you don´t recognize as yours are made by Scale Structures Ltd. and have been around for some 40 years. The signs I just gave a real quick job as I thought it would be a nice touch in those pics. Just a slight sanding with a fine grit paper - 260 in this case - then some washes with various browns, and black thinner based paints (Humbrol) and finally some pastel powder. That´s it. ::)

Anders ;D

Sorry, Anders. My name is Christian. I added it as a signature now.

I didn't mean to clutter up (literally) your thread, but you work is very inspiring. Do you have any more images of your work?

Wow!  You guys are both making great progress ... I'm jealous ... but mostly inspired.  Stopped by a local hobby shop yesterday and picked up a couple military vehicle kits to "dissect" for parts in my own garage.  Thanks for the great photos, ideas and inspiration!

Cheers,
Dallas

Anders and Christian, you've set up a most inspiring thread. And Dave's parts, once again, are the stars of the game!

Quote from: BKLN on December 10, 2010, 08:45:43 AM
Sorry, Anders. My name is Christian. I added it as a signature now.

I didn't mean to clutter up (literally) your thread, but you work is very inspiring. Do you have any more images of your work?

Christian,

Don´t worry your´e not cluttering up on the contrary it´s inspiring to see your excellent parts - just hang in there! It would be great to see a more contemporary garage coming up on this forum and if that´s what your´e planning maybe another thread would be a good idea in the long run as such a project would require many pages. Your choice.
Right now I´m drowning in new parts so no more pictures at the moment. Just scrapped a couple of Jordan veichles for doors, axles, mufflers, wheels etc. and will do quite a bit of paint chipping on doors and hoods with the hairspray technique or something similar. Have to finish a number of gas pumps as D. Krakow will be dealing in used pumps as well. Why did I decide on that ??? Just more work! :-[ Got some teriffic ones from a Swedish cottage industy.

Anders ;D

Quote from: Malachi Constant on December 10, 2010, 10:07:45 AM
Wow!  You guys are both making great progress ... I'm jealous ... but mostly inspired.  Stopped by a local hobby shop yesterday and picked up a couple military vehicle kits to "dissect" for parts in my own garage.  Thanks for the great photos, ideas and inspiration!

Cheers,
Dallas

Dallas.....Thank you - will jump right in on that Testors Liquid Cement technique you just described over at the RRL forum. Had totally forgot about that one. Too much to keep track of!

Anders ;D

Just a few of all the detail parts that are now finished. Some shelves and benches not shown still has to be filled up with many tiny parts. Building is coming up next.

Anders ;D

Looking great! I like those signs.

The top of the smaller batteries was laser cut by DaKra (Vectorcut) and then glued to pieces of styrene. Most of the parts on the "floor" also by Dave.

Car parts again quite a few DaKra parts.

Tool boards reworked a bit since previous post. Hooks filled up with radiator hoses, fan belts with decals, etc. Many DaKra parts here.

Lathe, drill press, compressors, grinder etc.

Have to make one more gas pump for customers. All shown except for the red tire pump will be placed in an outdoor shed and offered as "used gas pumps" in various conditions. My caricature of Chuck´s pump is quite embarassing  and my only excuse is the difference in scale. This is tiny stuff and hard to control with paint chipping etc. If anyone has some good advice for the final customer pump it would be most appreciated.

Anders ??? ??? ???

One more of the pumps.

hey Anders

Everything looks great, I like your color choices. 

Since you asked for suggestions on the pumps-- its probably too late to be helpful-- but I would not weather them as heavily as you have.    Assuming your diorama is set around 1935, and keeping in mind a gas station owner would keep his pump in good order while he was in business, 1920s pumps would only show a couple of years worth of rust and weather.    My idea of light weathering would be a little paint chipping at the wear points, an oil wash and a touch of rust.       That said, the way you've shown them would be perfect for a 1950s and later setting!

Looking forward to seeing how you build the structures.     

Dave

Dave, your´e absolutley right. A lot more paint than what I had planned for came off. The red ones are somewhat better. Even within the same brand of paints the reaction can be different. I have a few extra so we´ll see how the final one will work out. Thanks for your input.

Anders ???

Anders --

Great collection of tools, spare parts, signs, pumps and "junque" -- you're making great strides there!  Lots of interesting well-done pieces.

Cheers,
Dallas

Absolutely beautiful! The detail is very impressive! I was working on junk for my garage project, so I have a pretty good idea how much work it is. Very nice!

You mentioned that you used decals for the oil cans?!

Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Everything looks great! As Dave said, the weathering might be a tad much for "newer" pumps, but still they look pretty good, especially in light of the small size.

Thanks everyone for your comments. Christian I´m not sure which oil cans you refer to but here is a pic. Decals are N-scale Gas Station set from Microscale.

Anders ;D

Hi Anders, that's some awesome work you're showing us.
If you bring this kind of chef d'oeuvre to the French exhibition, I think I'll ask to be very far from you so as people cannot make the comparison between our works... :)

Quote from: Junior on January 04, 2011, 01:39:50 AM
Thanks everyone for your comments. Christian I´m not sure which oil cans you refer to but here is a pic. Decals are N-scale Gas Station set from Microscale.

Anders ;D

Geez, Louise!  That photo is a painful reminder of how neatly done these little tiny things are.  You must be completely crazy ... and very good at it.  ;D

Cheers,
Dallas

You are killing me, Anders!  :o
Thanks for the close up. It's interesting to see you and Dallas working pretty much on the subjects, just different scale.

Hello guys....hadn´t planned to bore you with more detail pictures but I have two questions.

1. I´m not sure how that small grinder on the workbench would be powered. I have a large grinder in my machine shop that is belt driven and my guess is that I should just run some wires to an electrical outlet for this small one.

2. Would appreciate if anyone could help with some pictures of an auto repair/gas station facade from the 1930´s. Brick or wood is not so important more the general design.

Hired a real pro for this picture - that´s DALLAS Kinsey behind the camera focusing on some of the Vectorcut parts on the workbench.

Anders ;)

The details are excellent.

The bench mounted grinders are usually driven by a motor inside them.
Hence the middle being large where the belt normally would go.
Just run an electrical cord to a plug.
Make sure the cord is frayed in at least one spot too  ;)
-Marty

Oh, yes, and take a look at the electrical outlets Dallas made. He set the bar pretty high, but I am confident that you won't have any problems matching is attention to detail in 1/87.  ;) ;D

yes, at this level of detail you need outlets, those scary old two-prong porcelain ones.

I assume you want a rural fix-it sort of garage.    Couple of typical garages with an office attachment.  These are more off-the highway sort of establishments, not really backwoods.   

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FWilcoxAZ.jpg&hash=cfe8d9180c0ac485c6d536828d5e88112d24ee9f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FMobilHouse.jpg&hash=d17b1484fdf8a4e0f59a8d42f41b547dadb560bc)

This one was in NYC, but looks rural.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FvandamstQueensNYPLcollection.jpg&hash=3cdb9dce148154cb6de5bbe70f2db24fe1ec74e2)

Ray & Irwin's Garage is one of my favorites  ;D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wtl4sipVBHA

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51567

A website worth browsing

Marty, thanks a lot - excellent info. Christian, lucky boy Dallas has all those Verlinden parts that he creates pure magic with. I don´t even know what an electrical outlet from the 1930´s would look like but I will probably find one on the Internet. Dave, that´s some great pictures I searched Flickr. etc. couldn´t find much so this is really great. Unfortunately there is no access to the You Tube clip in this part of the world.

Thanks guys!

Anders ;D ;D ;D

This old garage could make a pretty nice design.  The structure on the right would look better as a false-front office, with windows and a people-door and a simple cornice up top.      Or maybe leave that one as is and add a people door and windows to the structure on the left.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi171.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu288%2FBB767%2FDiamondInTheRoughEmailSm.jpg&hash=e87017c87948c870871e96246193639f30d4560f)

Quote from: DaKra on January 05, 2011, 09:01:56 AM
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51567

A website worth browsing

That´s a gold mine! Many thanks.

Anders ;D

Quote from: DaKra on January 05, 2011, 09:18:19 AM
This old garage could make a pretty nice design.  The structure on the right would look better as a false-front office, with windows and a people-door and a simple cornice up top.      Or maybe leave that one as is and add a people door and windows to the structure on the left.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi171.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu288%2FBB767%2FDiamondInTheRoughEmailSm.jpg&hash=e87017c87948c870871e96246193639f30d4560f)

That´s probably THE one but larger and in better condition...great!

Anders ;D

Hey, I'm honored ... I think ... who knows?  ;D ;)

Wasn't Kinsey the sex researcher?  Does this mean that I have to shoot photos of naked women draped all over your auto shop?  Sounds like a difficult and taxing job, but I'm willing to try.  (Heck with Darius Kinsey ... Dallas Kinsey has some more interesting ideas ...)  ;D

Did some research and found that the grounded outlet was patented in 1928:
http://illumin.usc.edu/article.php?articleID=181&page=3

BUT ... the two-prong outlets remained far more common in widespread use for many, many years ... into the 50's and 60'.  I tried using two-prong outlets in my first go-round, and they looked "funny" to me.  Since they're intended as background objects, and I don't want them to become focal points, I opted to go with the 3-prong outlet ... because my eye quickly saw those as "outlets" and kept moving.  Right or wrong, it's the "editorial" decision for my version.

ALSO ... I considered simply PRINTING photos of the outlet faceplates ... not enough depth that way in 1/35 scale, but might work for you in HO.  Sample photo of porcelain outlet below.

And, I just posted some more "parts source" reference info over on the RR Line forum that might be useful if you get into doing 1/35 stuff ...

PS -- Photos help prove that I carefully researched "reality" and then made my own stupid decisions to suit my little fantasy world!  ;) :D

Cheers,
Dallas

PS -- My breaker box is a bit on the modern side too ... one of those things where I can sorta fake-justify it based on "when were they invented" ... but the FUSE box remained far more widespread for many years after my 1942 time period.  That said, the Verlinden breaker box had nice detail with a separate door and I think the casual viewer just sees it as part of the infrastructure.  (Hey, $5 word today!)

Lots of good fuse box photos out there ... I have a few pix of neat, older ones with conspicuous copyrights that I won't post here, but I can forward privately for reference if needed. 

Cheers,
Dallas

Some nut makes the two prong porcelain outlet covers in HO scale.   (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freesmileys.org%2Fsmileys%2Fsmiley-green%2Fgreensmilies-025.gif&hash=61173874c34680ae42b070a30fa5985e414dfe4c) (http://www.greensmilies.com)

Quote from: Junior on January 05, 2011, 09:08:24 AM
Marty, thanks a lot - excellent info. Christian, lucky boy Dallas has all those Verlinden parts that he creates pure magic with. I don´t even know what an electrical outlet from the 1930´s would look like but I will probably find one on the Internet. Dave, that´s some great pictures I searched Flickr. etc. couldn´t find much so this is really great. Unfortunately there is no access to the You Tube clip in this part of the world.

Thanks guys!

Anders ;D ;D ;D

It might be worthwhile to poke around the web and search for "HO scale engines" ... "HO scale engine parts" ... "HO scale motors" ... "HO scale auto parts" etc ... you'll get a lot of un-related junk, but may find a few goodies.  

ALSO ... consider doing those as IMAGE searches ... kinda makes it easier to "see" what's out there ... for example, I quickly turned up some neat stuff here:

http://ralphratcliffemodels.com/catalog/product_reviews.php?products_id=65
http://ralphratcliffemodels.com/catalog/product_reviews.php?products_id=65

Of course, it's possible that I just go lucky and Dave and "that guy" are the only ones making parts!  ;)

Cheers,
Darius

Darius,
thanks a lot for that link. I have been searching for 1/87 engines, but I ended up buying to Jordan kits to butcher them for parts. The Ratcliffe stuff is still a little too big for my purposes, but very nice to browse thru.

I love how crazy this model monkey house is. You make a joke about outlet covers in 1/87 and half a day later we have full, serious discussion about the matter and end up with lasercut outlet cover. You guys are insane.

Anders,
All your garage clutter is amazing as ususal, but I noticed one thing: Your car jack seems to be way out of scale. With you skills I would just build one from scratch, assuming that yours comes from kit. I just bought the Roco Minitanks / Herpa Field maintenance kit (which is ironically the 1/87 of the Italeri 1/35 Field maintenance kit) It has a carjack in there, but it seems to be out of scale, too.
http://www.herpa.de/collect/(S(g20upj551mnzymfejclny33a))/detail.aspx?ProductID=740654&express=&thumb=1

I used the ones from the Preiser garage kit.
http://www.euromodeltrains.com/cgi-bin/search_item.pl?ss=UHJlaXNlcnwxNzE4NiAg&from=http://www.euromodeltrains.com/cgi-bin/search_released.pl%7Css:UHJlaXNlcnxITyAg,released:accessories,categoryLabel:Accessories

Christian

Some more HO links ...

Various interesting items, including photo-etched snow chains, windshield wipers, etc:
http://www.automobilia.de/estart.htm

GHQ 1932 Ford Hot Rod w/ open engine:
http://www.ghqmodels.com/store/63001.html

Various interesting kits/details ... including photo-etched bicycles:
http://www.hauler.cz/

Photo-etched vehicle kits:
http://www.micronart.com/HOSCALE_Vehicles.html

Photo-etched details ... including mudflaps with go-go girlies!  ;D
http://www.planomodelproducts.com/vehicled_scq.html

HO Scale military vehicle kits ... including photos of kit PARTS in descriptions:
http://www.mackits.cz/model-kits.php?akce=kits&scale=3

Cheers,
Dallas

Quote from: Junior on January 05, 2011, 09:18:51 AM

Quote from: DaKra on January 05, 2011, 09:01:56 AM
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51567

A website worth browsing

That´s a gold mine! Many thanks.

Anders ;D

Thanks indeed, an EPIC thread, like Thomas's comment about the original owner "organisationally challenged, but knew exactly where everything was"
I suppose thats filing/storing by context, it may be easier to remember where something is in relationship to all other jobs done at about the same time.

lots of good pics of how it really was in some establishments

Hey guys...that´s an incredible amount of information and ideas many thanks to all of you. I´m aware of that this might not be the right forum for 1/87 scale as it´s extremely difficult at least for me to not have the overall appearance of all those tiny parts look toy like. But I like the straight forward criticism here that can´t be found in any other forum and the fact that you are surrounded by the best model builders in the world. Already have advanced plans for my next project in 1/35 scale but after that it´s back to 1/87 as I have a layout to work on as well.

Anyway....

Dallas, a lot of interesting stuff there....those fuse boxes would look great in your garage.

Dave, you never stop to amaze us. Three hours after my post you have the outlets done! :o

Christian, I´m a bit suspicious about that car jack too incidentally it´s from TL-models. Won´t be using it as I have the hydraulic hoist. Might get some Prieser car jacks they look pretty good. That Roco field set looks good too - I have the Italeri 1/35 set as I will be using some parts for my next project.

Question: Have a couple of compressors (shown in one of my pics.) which one would be appropriate for the hoist if any? Rough mock up of building next!

Anders ;D

Hoists are run by hydraulic pressure not compressed air.
The in ground type conceals all of the plumbing and pump/motor
If it is an above ground (too modern for your era) then a pump and electrical motor hang on one of the posts.

A compressor is a requirement for operation of pneumatic tools, blowing things out and filling tires.

-Marty

Quote from: lab-dad on January 06, 2011, 05:06:51 AM
Hoists are run by hydraulic pressure not compressed air.
The in ground type conceals all of the plumbing and pump/motor
If it is an above ground (too modern for your era) then a pump and electrical motor hang on one of the posts.

A compressor is a requirement for operation of pneumatic tools, blowing things out and filling tires.

-Marty

Thanks Marty, is my hoist (see one of my pics.) to modern for the 1930´s? I hope it´s the in ground type, looks like that to me but I have no knowledge at all about these technical matters and really appreciate your help.

Anders ??? ??? ???

The Preiser hoists look too modern.  I think Anders hydraulic lift is OK for a 30's vintage garage.  I'm guessing they might have been operated by a foot pump?   

BTW I might be able to laser cut a smaller version, if you need one, with the diamond plate pattern in it.  Might make a nice commercial product for my line.

Dave

On a side note I have to say that the guy who renovated that garage did a great job on the interior. But it is a absolutely terrible how he turned the outside facade into a McMansion. He completely disregarded the history and the original vibe of the place. Very sad.

Christian

Quote from: DaKra on January 05, 2011, 11:49:15 AM
Some nut makes the two prong porcelain outlet covers in HO scale.   (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freesmileys.org%2Fsmileys%2Fsmiley-green%2Fgreensmilies-025.gif&hash=61173874c34680ae42b070a30fa5985e414dfe4c) (http://www.greensmilies.com)

....why doesn't that surprise me?

Anders,
If we are talking about the drive on hoist then I think you are fine.
Many of the older ones only went up 3 feet or less.
Some only went up in the front.
I can ask a friend who has been in the
Dave,
I have never seen a foot operated Hydraulic vehicle lift, but then I am only 43  ;D
-Marty

Marty, yes the drive on one. Right now it´s about 2´ up so the guy who made it probably knows the garage business.

Thanks very much,

Anders ;D

A combination of a couple of buildings. Foot print for the garage is 35` x  45`. Chuck sent me a great picture with the small lean on connected this way. Let´s assume the small gas station expanded and built the garage later. This is supposed to be in a rural area. I didn´t bother with window openings etc.  Fenced backyard will have used pumps and old car parts for sale. In front of the small building: gas pump, lubester and tire pump.

Anders ???

Hey Marty, I guess from what I have learnt so far this compressor should be alright with the tire pump. Can I put the compressor in the garage and assume connections are underground?

Anders ???

Yay! This is what I was waiting for! Thanks, Anders!  ;D

The lean-to connector is a simple solution, but the pitch of the roof should slope towards the ground so rain and snow keeps moving away from the wall.    I think copying the prototype arrangement here might be worth the extra work because it adds to the composition.

Dave

I found another nice link with great vintage signs and paint cans:

http://www.cruisin66.com/bodyshop.html

Quote from: DaKra on January 07, 2011, 07:12:24 AM
The lean-to connector is a simple solution, but the pitch of the roof should slope towards the ground so rain and snow keeps moving away from the wall.    I think copying the prototype arrangement here might be worth the extra work because it adds to the composition.

Dave

Alright, have been thinking about that. Here is the prototype picture Chuck sent me.

Anders ???

Quote from: BKLN on January 07, 2011, 07:23:02 AM
I found another nice link with great vintage signs and paint cans:

http://www.cruisin66.com/bodyshop.html

Great link Christian - thanks very much!

Anders ;D

Junior,
Most shops air lines just run around the shop wherever needed.
Shop Air lines are 1" black pipe (i.d.)
Would be another thing along the wall to add interest/detail
Quick disconnects placed at the needs at various places.
The disconnects are brass so use some small brass tube about 1 1/2" long.
Several coiled up air hoses are another item as well, solder works nicely for hose.
-Marty

Marty,
are the airhoses / pipes are fixed, would the compressor by fixed, too? Inside or outside?

Christian

Quote from: lab-dad on January 07, 2011, 08:04:31 AM
Junior,
Most shops air lines just run around the shop wherever needed.
Shop Air lines are 1" black pipe (i.d.)
Would be another thing along the wall to add interest/detail
Quick disconnects placed at the needs at various places.
The disconnects are brass so use some small brass tube about 1 1/2" long.
Several coiled up air hoses are another item as well, solder works nicely for hose.
-Marty

Thanks Marty your´e a genius. Ha.. more and more work but I´m sure it will look good, might order a couple of shut-off valves from PSCO. Will check the Internet for prototype pics.

Anders ;D

Christian,     I believe a air compressor would be Fixed.....bolted down.....on the inside of a shop or garage ;) It was a important piece of equipment and money maker for the owner.  Heres a pic of a old compressor i had in my files.

OK, I see. Would that thing be running all day or only if you need pressure. Wouldn't it need a vent to the outside?
How is the pressured air handled in todays garages?

In any garage I have worked in or been in, the motor was controlled by a pressure switch, when pressure fell, motor switch on, recharged tank & at a preset presure would switch off again.
Thanks for all the ideas on these garage threads, there is so much stuff in old garages I have forgot the half of it, seeing its 40 years since I worked in one  ::) ;D
Edit;- after thought
most static compressors had electric motors so no vent needed, But if you had a mobile or trailer compressor they usually had  IC engines  ok in the ouside air, but they would benefit from venting if a permanent fixture inside

I totally forgot about electric compressors. Over the weekend while passing a tire shop I suddely realized that it was kind of a silly question. But thanks anyway!

Christian

 Progress on Krakow´s Auto Co. Reference photo used for inspiration on both buildings.

Small building built up with individual boards 1" x 6"  for both clapboard and the other various boards. Sheet metal around the false front and sides, thanks to Darryl and Per Olav for the food container tip. Various stains on boards and finally white and green acrylics over mineral spirits.
Windows and doors thin Ranger paints not really visible here.

Satisfactory. -- Russ

Side view

Side view

Back with temporary roof in place.

Garage front. Still waiting for doors from Dave that will be identical to the prototype. The wrench is in honor of Dave and Vectorcut.

Buildings as they will be located on the diorama.

Mock up for locker and restroom area. Don´t know if I need to raise the walls up to the peak...don´t think so. Any suggestions welcome.

Side wall of garage with some gasket displays that I´m working on right now designed by computer wizard BKLN Christian who also did the artwork for the Krakow signs.

DaKra´s fingers and doors that are in transit across the Atlantic Ocean.

One final close up about FOUR times actual size! :D Would appreciate some suggestions on the following. Have one gas pump and two lubesters that will be placed in front of the small building. I could carve an island out of plaster just like the front steps or just put down some boards?

Thanks,

Anders ???

QuoteDaKra´s fingers and doors that are in transit across the Atlantic Ocean.

I hope (for us) he forgot to send the fingers since he does so wonderful things with them for us to enjoy.

Apart from this subtle observation, I can only bow in front of your wonderful work.
About the pump and lubesters, I think that plaster would be fine since the garage is obviously not an out-of-the-woods thing.

Ha....that´s really funny Frédéric - I guess we have a slight language barrier here - messed that one up but won´t delete might be a few other guys who will be amused. Thanks for your input and kind comments.

Anders ;D

This is one mighty fine structure, Anders.  The walls look great and the
little details - like the hanging hose - really bring the scene to life.
Combined with Dave's & Christian's raw material, you're creating a beautiful piece of work!

EDIT:
One minor thing I just noticed:
Your electric meter is mounted up near the roof where the line comes in from the pole.
It should be at eye-level so the Meter Guy can read it.  The incoming electric line should run
to the building (the way you have it) then down to the meter before the line goes into the building.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1227.0;attach=8399;image)

Anders --

It's all looking really good!  Concrete step looks good, so it seems like building a similar concrete island for the pump & lubesters should work fine ...

One thing looks a bit odd to me ... is that an electric meter up near the roof on the end of building?  If so, those are usually at or below eye level ...

Cheers,
Dallas

Quote from: Malachi Constant on January 26, 2011, 05:58:32 AM
One thing looks a bit odd to me ... is that an electric meter up near the roof on the end of building?  If so, those are usually at or below eye level ...

Dallas, we noticed that at the same time and our responses crossed in the mail!

Ken and Dallas, thanks for your input and kind comments. That electrical meter was part of a much larger panel and I had no idea it was an electrical meter just thought it was some kind of a hook up unit. Now that I know better I will move it.

Thanks,

Anders ;D

Anders,
that is some great progress on your project. There are so many nice details to discover!

Since everybody is helping with their expertise, I don't want to hold back: I think the "No Smoking" sign is a little out of place. It seems too modern to me. I would just take it off completely or have something a little more simple.
And while I am very proud that you seem to like the main signs, I think that one might be enough. It would be unlikely that a auto shop like this would have two almost identical signs on the two structures. (especially if one structure was a later addition)

But those two things don't matter too much when you look at the overall beauty of this project!

Christian,

Had thoughts about the main signs as well that´s why they are only spot glued and could easily be removed - not really sure what I prefer right now. Is it the No Smoking sign on the garage or both? Thanks for the input.

Anders ???

You have done a nice adaptation of the original Anders! Those doors should look great in there.

I have seen electric meters in seemingly unreadable locations-though it is more unusual.

Beautiful work, Anders.   I'm honored to have my name on this fine establishment!

;D

This project continues to prove satisfactory, constructive comments notwithstanding. We have some fine modelers here, don't we? -- Russ

Anders
I love the progress! And the chipped paint is great, I was wondering though, how tall are the meter readers in your country? Because he or she would need to be 10 foot tall to read your electrical meter :o ??? ::)
Gil
In Idaho where we now have digital meters that send the info automatically, no meter readers here  ;D

Beautifully done Anders!

Kevin

Quote from: Junior on January 26, 2011, 02:11:33 AM
Mock up for locker and restroom area. Don´t know if I need to raise the walls up to the peak...don´t think so. Any suggestions welcome.

It probably would look better if you did meet the roof line, especially if you would be taking photographs in through the open door from the little peoples eye level

I am loving all the detail you are doing, takes me back 50 years to when I was working in one!!

Beautiful work!

RE: the restroom/locker room walls... Continuing the walls up to the peak doesn't seem prototypical to me. I think it would be more likely to have a ceiling. If this would affect your access to the interior, perhaps the ceiling could be removable.

QuoteDon´t know if I need to raise the walls up to the peak...don´t think so. Any suggestions welcome.

I've seen a number of old garages where the office &c resembled a box set down inside the main building. The gap between the top of the office area and the underside of the main roof trusses provided a convenient storage space for assorted junk that might come in useful one day.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on January 26, 2011, 07:27:54 PM
Beautiful work!

RE: the restroom/locker room walls... Continuing the walls up to the peak doesn't seem prototypical to me. I think it would be more likely to have a ceiling. If this would affect your access to the interior, perhaps the ceiling could be removable.

I'm planning to do something like Ray suggested in my shop ... ceiling over the rest room will be removable to allow for lighting/detailing ... cosmetically, it will serve as a sort of storage loft ... where some small things get shoved to get them out of the way ...

Cheers,
Dallas

Hi guys and many thanks for all the valuable input will make everything look much better. Relocated the now world famous meter, put up a different sign on the small building and the No Smoking sign is now more typical of the era. Concerning the interior walls I guess the height shown in the mock up picture is now in favour. Will shoot some interior pictures of the garage soon - detailing has started today.

Can´t really get those white walls to photograph well indoors. Might sound as a bad excuse for sloppy work but they do look much better in reality. Maybe Russ can help. Anyway will shoot them outdoors when it´s not -15 c. like today. Here is a picture from a previous project taken outdoors although not a white building it makes a big difference in my opinion.

Anders ??? ;D

Thanks for the photo of another project, Anders. 
You do some really good work.  Wonderful attention to detail.
Got any more photos from the srchives?

Low interior walls with a ceiling is perfectly fine. I work in a building where the offices and restrooms are just like that.

Thanks for that info Chuck actually those walls are almost done now.

Thanks Ken - that particular picture is from a machine shop that will be included in the next issue of The Annual. Will post other projects soon.

Anders ;)

First work on the interior.

Lights are just temporary and looks funny. This pic. was shot with Helicon Focus and the camera moved slightly during the two exposures.

Had you shot a close-up it could be quite difficult to know whether it's 1:1 or 1:87, Anders.

Restroom moved from it´s location behind the tool board wall.

Back where it should be.....

Anders ???

Anders --

That is some AMAZING and beautiful work there ... very inspiring ... great atmosphere!

Cheers,
Dallas

Luv the clutter and coloring!

Anders, you are killing me.

This is so cool! It is a wonderful idea to hang all those gaskets in front of the window, it really bring out all that delicate detail.

I think this model will surpass even the machine shop. -- Russ

Thank you very much guys - encouraging. Will be back soon with more finished work and some closeup pics. for Frédéric.

Anders ;D

Thanks Anders. I love all the details and thinking you've already put into this garage.

Quote from: finescalerr on February 01, 2011, 12:49:44 AM
I think this model will surpass even the machine shop. -- Russ

If so it´s because of all the help I got from the great people at this forum. When building the machine shop a year ago I had no help at all.

Anders ;D

Quote from: granitechops on January 26, 2011, 03:20:49 PM

Quote from: Junior on January 26, 2011, 02:11:33 AM
Mock up for locker and restroom area. Don´t know if I need to raise the walls up to the peak...don´t think so. Any suggestions welcome.

It probably would look better if you did meet the roof line, especially if you would be taking photographs in through the open door from the little peoples eye level

I am loving all the detail you are doing, takes me back 50 years to when I was working in one!!

.
I agree with the suggestions others have made about flat ceilings with storage above.
I have seen a lot like that, including one that serviced my van until recently

I supppose my thinking had been coloured by my recent research about the 1930s depression era, when placing myself in the shoes of a very hard up owner wishing to add internal rooms, the cheapest option, especially with a low roof, would be to add a few inches to the uprights plus a bit more sheeting, wheras a flat ceiling would require, extra ceiling joists, and quite a few square feet of ceiling sheets.

Just for an alternative approach to partition, a garage I worked in in the 1960s had a 'cage'  of studding at 4ft centres with just chain link fixed to it to about 8 ft high, with a 6ft wide opening, no doors,inside was all the shop machinery, grinders, lathes, cutters, vulcanising stand etc. supposedly so that all dangerous  activity was isolated from the rest of the shop, but anyone could still see if anything had gone wrong

Don,
your observation regarding extra storage space is dead on. I really like what you did in the packing shed with those pipes under the ceiling. It makes perfect sense and looks really good! (I should really write this in your thread)

Christian

Anders, it's a pleasure to take in all those wonderful details.
Beautiful job!!

Terrific work! Looks very authentic.

Thanks Ken and Ray. Now heating issues. I have decided not to use shop heaters as Dave (DaKra) made up some really nice radiators. He also sent me this picture from an old catalog. Would this be TOO much for just the garage and the little office building? The two buildings will not be surrounded by other buildings and are located about two miles from nearest town. Without this boiler how would the hot water be supplied? The boiler house would fit nicely at the back of the garage see next page.

Anders ???

Back with temporary roof needs vents, weathering etc.

I guess its one of those things where you can't really go wrong.   It would be good garage practice not to have an open flame.   If you had a cheap source of coal nearby it might also make economic sense to use a boiler. 

Some local regulations weren't enforced.   Insurance policy may specify, maybe the garage had no insurance.   Who knows?  And if its a warm climate location, probably no fixed heat source, but an electric heater or stove might be brought in for a cold spell. 

Photos show radiators, electric heaters and stoves, too.   

Radiators

http://www.shorpy.com/node/8692?size=_original (http://www.shorpy.com/node/8692?size=_original)
http://www.shorpy.com/node/7015?size=_original  (http://www.shorpy.com/node/7015?size=_original) 
http://www.shorpy.com/node/5277?size=_original
 (http://www.shorpy.com/node/5277?size=_original)

big coal stove

http://www.shorpy.com/node/8501?size=_original (http://www.shorpy.com/node/8501?size=_original)

Couple other thoughts...

In the bathroom I might expect to see a rear view mirror hanging up over the sink, instead of the old pin up.   And probably a bare bulb light fixture with a pull chain somewhere. 

From the bathroom set up with the flush toilet & hot and cold running water, I'd assume the radiator boiler would fill automatically from the fresh water line. 

Dave

QuoteIn the bathroom I might expect to see a rear view mirror hanging up over the sink, instead of the old pin up.   And probably a bare bulb light fixture with a pull chain somewhere.

Dave,
don't assume everybody's bathroom looks like that, just because yours does.  ;)


Anders,
very nice job on the roof. What did you use?

Christian

Quote from: DaKra on February 02, 2011, 05:20:29 AM
Couple other thoughts...

In the bathroom I might expect to see a rear view mirror hanging up over the sink, instead of the old pin up.   And probably a bare bulb light fixture with a pull chain somewhere. 

From the bathroom set up with the flush toilet & hot and cold running water, I'd assume the radiator boiler would fill automatically from the fresh water line. 

Dave

Ha....the OLD pin up I printed from a site you sent me so that stays - the rest I will get to work on.

Anders ;D

Quote from: BKLN on February 02, 2011, 07:08:25 AM

QuoteIn the bathroom I might expect to see a rear view mirror hanging up over the sink, instead of the old pin up.   And probably a bare bulb light fixture with a pull chain somewhere.

Dave,
don't assume everybody's bathroom looks like that, just because yours does.  ;)


Anders,
very nice job on the roof. What did you use?

Christian

Speaking about bathrooms - your guess!

Anders ???

You used toilet paper for the roof? - Interesting! I didn't think that would work. I was guessing it to be some fine sandpaper.

Cheap stuff painted with Polly S Weathered Black when dry medium warm iron, cut in stripes and glued in place. Painted again with enamels final weathering remains.

Anders ::)

Still coming along satisfactorily. I really find impressive the information about plumbing. Where else would people be so knowledgeable and helpful to someone building a "tiny house from a bunch of sticks"? -- Russ

Anders --

Each time there's a new post in this thread, I can't help going back and reviewing many of the earlier photos ... very impressed and inspired by the finish and arrangement of all your tiny details!

Cheers,
Dallas

Thanks Dallas - inspiration is mutual don´t think I had made all those radiator hoses shown in the prototype picture on page one and in my interior shot unless I had seen your neat work with those. Your thread has so far given me many great ideas for my next project in 1/35 scale.

Anders ;D

That's scary!  Now I have to decide:
a) Hurry up and finish my project before you jump into 1/35 and show how it should really look ... or ...
b) Slow down (even more) on my project, so I can wait and see how it should really be done and copy yours!  ;)

It is interesting to do projects in different scales.  Dabbling with HO figures has given me new ideas about working on the larger ones ... but working on the larger ones made it easier to do something in HO.  Lots of interesting decisions to be made about techniques, compromises and what aspects to emphasize to get the most out of a particular scale.

;D ;D ;D
Dallas

As I´m waiting for radiators and a couple of shelves from David not much has happened on the interior but there are plenty of other things to finish. Got the boiler house done - similar to the drawing on page 10.

Boiler house interior.

Roof done with vents and rafters in place.

New pump island.

Got some really neat steel shelves from Dave that are now in place.

That´s a Pierce Arrow truck engine for Mr. Krakow to work on. Will supply him with an overhead pulley trolley as soon as crossbeams and posts are installed. That´s it for now.

Anders

Very nice progress Anders.

All that, and HO scale yet. -- Russ

I know, and I thought O was too small...

Thanks guys. Frédéric I forgot about your request. This picture is about three times actual size with the new steel shelves in place.

Anders ;D ;D ;D

PS. Russ...why doesn´t my pics. show without clicking anymore? ???

When I see this kind of picture, Anders, I have to make an effort to remember it's not even O scale but small HO scale. You're a magician!
Apart from the modelling, the lighting in this last image gives it a fantastic flavour.

That's just insane!  And wonderful ... and, man, what a load of stuff you've got scattered all over the place ... loads of atmosphere ...

Saw a movie once called "Edward Scissorhands" ... any chance you might be a cousin of his ... Anders Tweezerhands or something?

I like the parts that appear to have been kicked under the long workbench in the back ... and the wood parts bins ... and, well, it just goes on and on.  Really nice. -- Dallas

Anders Tweezerhands  ;D ;D 

Sorry, man...

Last photo is great!  Reminds me of sitting up in the audience in a Broadway play, looking down at the stage set waiting for the actors to walk in and the action to start.   Building skills aside, its a beautifully composed and illuminated scene.   

Dave

This is really superlative work! It would be impressive in 1/24th scale -- that it is actually HO, even more so.

Most satisfactory. And artistic. -- Russ

  Remarqueble, you have set a nice mood.  8) 8)

  please don't overdo it......  The drillpress needs a good footing  ::) ;)

  Jacq

Thanks very much guys - very much appreciated! Jacques the drillpress has not been glued down yet but what kind of footing would that be? ??? Would appreciate your help. Overdoing is easy and temptating but NO more parts in that area....that´s it - less is more. Looking at the parts that I have acquired so far for my next 1/35 scale project I´m not sure at all that it will be any easier. Those parts needs careful attention in terms of painting. Just an oil drum has the same height as my boiler house - not really what I´m used to.

Anders  ;D

PS. Seems like the band Scissor Sisters or is it Tweezer Sisters - would be a good choice for todays music at work..... ???

  Anders,

  put 4 flat area's to the corners of the footing casting where the drillpress can be bolted down.  Underneath you can make a small concrete pad. I am not sure if this is realy needed
  if the floor has been reinforced with extra timbers.

  Jacq

Thanks Jacques, will definitely look into that!

Anders ;D

Anders

Just catching up with this.  Great modeling and the details are just outstanding.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry and welcome to the Krakow world!

Anders ;D

 8)

perfect!

Quote from: Junior on February 10, 2011, 05:46:11 AM
... welcome to the Krakow world!

Anders ;D

Now THAT'S a scary thought. Is it anything like the Twilight Zone?

Re drill press base - 4 small NBW's (1 at each corner) would replicate it being lagged to the floor. I wonder how a little steel wool might look for some turnings scattered here and there. But since I'm coming so late to this party it might be best if I just keep quiet.

-slim

Interior is done except for lights, crossbeams, posts and trusses. As soon as the LED´s arrive from New York the beams etc. can be installed. Restroom and small office in the rear also finished (no pics. yet).

Shelf with drawers and radiators by Dave (Vectorcut). Next on to the diorama base that will measure 50 x 40 cm.

Anders ;D

Is it only me or has Anders approached the quality of Chuck's Red Oak Garage ... only in a model whose parts are half the size? -- Russ

Prototype for the more elaborate Krakow fan that Dallas made - in the rear - could only find room for a D & K probably not visible in this reduced pic. Small Krakow fan in the window.

Temporary lights.

Quote from: Bill Sartore on February 17, 2011, 11:56:45 AM

Quote from: Junior on February 10, 2011, 05:46:11 AM
... welcome to the Krakow world!

Anders ;D

Now THAT'S a scary thought. Is it anything like the Twilight Zone?

Re drill press base - 4 small NBW's (1 at each corner) would replicate it being lagged to the floor. I wonder how a little steel wool might look for some turnings scattered here and there. But since I'm coming so late to this party it might be best if I just keep quiet.

-slim

Hey Bill - there´s my light supplier what a coincidence! Four NBW´s are installed.....thanks anyway. Have to try the steel wool ???

Anders ;D ;D ;D

I agree, Russ, with your opinion. To those - and I was one of them - who thought that Chuck's quality required O scale at least and Chuck's hand, there's now an example proving it's possible in smaller scale by someone else.

Finally.  ;) I was waiting for this update. And it is just beautiful! I was telling Dave Krakow the other day that your models have a wonderful mood. It is very easy to fall into "romantic traps" of wishful thinking, where things are just too cute. But your work is nostalgic without being unrealistic. Wonderful!

Thanks very much everyone - most appreciated. Here is a pic. for you Dallas and thanks for your inspiration.

Anders ;D

Edit. forgot the measurements: 9 x 9 m.m

Quote from: finescalerr on February 17, 2011, 12:13:20 PM
Is it only me or has Anders approached the quality of Chuck's Red Oak Garage ... only in a model whose parts are half the size? -- Russ

Yeah ... not only are all the details beautiful and neatly arranged, but the coloring and mood of all the components just feels right!

Anders -- Copycat!  ;D  Actually, I'm glad to see that those little fans fit so nicely in such a realistic environment.  Beautiful job on putting together those tiny things!  After assembling the 1/700 plane, I think I could even make an HO fan now.  ;)

BTW -- If you have a digital SLR with a separate lens, chances are it has some threads at the end of the lens that allow you to screw-in filters, etc.  If that's the case, you can get an inexpensive set of macro adapters that simply screw-in to the end of the lens and will allow you to do close-ups.  (These are small price compared to fancy macro lens)

Wonderful & inspiring work! -- Dallas

Thanks Dallas......actually I do have two of those lenses ( +3 and +2 ) and I´ll promise you as soon as it´s time to act like a copy cat again I will use both of them!

Anders  ;D

Quote from: Junior on February 18, 2011, 12:09:58 AM
Thanks very much everyone - most appreciated. Here is a pic. for you Dallas and thanks for your inspiration.

Anders ;D

Edit. forgot the measurements: 9 x 9 m.m

It looks great!  I was curious about the comparison ... I actually had Dave make mine fairly small ... so my window fan is only 14mm sq and the floor fan is about 12x14mm, not including the handles, etc.  This of course, means that you have to go back and install belt drive in your window fan if you haven't already done that!  :o  ;D

You might be able to use BOTH the +2 and +3 adapters together ... I think that actually multiplies the effect, so you'd get a +6 (or 6x) effect.  I've generally used a +4 for many small items, and the +10 for many more (like the little airplane!).  If combining them works, then you can take close-ups of the little outlets, etc, as needed.

Really hope that I'll get similarly pleasing results as all my little bits and pieces start to shape into a finished shop.  -- Dallas

Quote from: Malachi Constant on February 18, 2011, 04:25:45 AM

Quote from: Junior on February 18, 2011, 12:09:58 AM
Thanks very much everyone - most appreciated. Here is a pic. for you Dallas and thanks for your inspiration.

Anders ;D

Edit. forgot the measurements: 9 x 9 m.m

It looks great!  I was curious about the comparison ... I actually had Dave make mine fairly small ... so my window fan is only 14mm sq and the floor fan is about 12x14mm, not including the handles, etc.  This of course, means that you have to go back and install belt drive in your window fan if you haven't already done that!  :o  ;D

You might be able to use BOTH the +2 and +3 adapters together ... I think that actually multiplies the effect, so you'd get a +6 (or 6x) effect.  I've generally used a +4 for many small items, and the +10 for many more (like the little airplane!).  If combining them works, then you can take close-ups of the little outlets, etc, as needed.

Really hope that I'll get similarly pleasing results as all my little bits and pieces start to shape into a finished shop.  -- Dallas

I have used both lenses together but had no idea you could get them in a  +10 format - sounds great! Regarding the fan business a small belt drive has been installed (from Dave´s Modern Car Parts ) and it´s also plugged into one of his outlets. ;D ;D ;D

Anders :D

BTW -- I'm curious about the size of your structure.  I'm modeling a much SMALLER building in the LARGER scale ... I wouldn't be surprised if the actual footprint is similar.

My structure is about 18-1/2 x 28' (scale feet) or 16.2 x 24.4 cm (actual size)

What is the size (floor measurements) of your garage?

Also ... Anders sent me some larger copies of these photos off-line and they're even better when seen in the larger size.  They'll look great when Russ gets to print them!

Cheers,
Dallas

Quote from: Malachi Constant on February 18, 2011, 05:17:00 AM
BTW -- I'm curious about the size of your structure.  I'm modeling a much SMALLER building in the LARGER scale ... I wouldn't be surprised if the actual footprint is similar.

My structure is about 18-1/2 x 28' (scale feet) or 16.2 x 24.4 cm (actual size)

What is the size (floor measurements) of your garage?

Also ... Anders sent me some larger copies of these photos off-line and they're even better when seen in the larger size.  They'll look great when Russ gets to print them!

Cheers,
Dallas

A bit smaller Dallas....footprint is 14,5 cm x 13 cm or 41´ x 36´ scale feet.

Anders ;D

I had forgotten that I had the close-up lenses (got mine off of eBay) so I pulled them out. I'm building a pump house in O scale and I need an oil engine and pump that can be seen through the windows so figured it was a good subject for playing with the lenses .. not too bad for under $20 if I remember. If you get a set, make sure you get the correct size for your camera. Mine are 52mm but came with a 58mm adapter. Which is cool because I bought them for my Sony (58mm) but my Nikon uses the 52mm .. so everything is copasetic.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi856.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab130%2FLCRRinHO%2FStructures%2FPumphouse%2FEngineBuild_1.jpg&hash=29810b2e2479bc281a75a60a2afba7504ba9702e)

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So the LED´s are done - quite a nightmare to mount fifteen lights in both structures but thanks to Bill Sartore who supplied everything in an excellent way. Need to repaint the lamp shades as they are leaking. Any suggestions for a paint that would do the job? The restroom and small office in the rear of the garage are close to impossible to photograph properly but I will give it another try later on.

Anders ???

Pic. no 2.

Pic. no 3.

Pic. no 4.

That is as perfect as I can imagine, Anders.
Do you remember you must tell me the size you need for your display next june?

Looks great!

As I mentioned in my email - I just sprayed a quick coat of gray paint on the lamp shades figuring you would paint them the color of your choice. I just forgot tontell you that (oops). I usually brush on a couple of heavy coats of a Polly Scale color. Trying to make them opaque in one pass doesn't work that well.

You made the job extra challenging for yourself by adding the lights late in the project. Fantastic work!

Bill

Wonderful, Anders!

Anders, this model is a little revolution in the HO scale world!    

Your approach to detail as high-resolution models-within-models, is very different from the "sprinkle of castings" that usually passes for detail.  Your extensive use of laser cut parts gives the scene crispness and a believable amount of clutter.   The castings you did use are carefully chosen, and everything is placed in a believable way.  

This is the first time I have seen an interior lit by multiple, individual hanging lamps powered by scale size LEDs.  Completely realistic, and a really big difference from the massively oversized GOW bulbs from the pre-LED era.   The lighting is modeled in a scale way, not an afterthought.

Finally, your photography, in sharp focus from front to rear,  is another remarkable achievement.    

Brilliant work!   :o
Dave



(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FAndersGarage.jpg&hash=fc5db31c42b76b33f86e87b7bc857d0620b4e73d)

What Dave said! All I can add is....awesome.

Most satisfactory. -- Russ

I agree with all here. The lighting creates a great atmosphere! Quite excellent.

The current RR Line photo thread would welcome these pics.

Hey Anders
Way to go partner!! You just don't find this level of detail in such a nicely blended scene in HO. The depth of the scene is just so impressive.
Congrats!

KO

Quote from: DaKra on March 04, 2011, 05:58:15 AM
Anders, this model is a little revolution in the HO scale world!    

Your approach to detail as high-resolution models-within-models, is very different from the "sprinkle of castings" that usually passes for detail.  Your extensive use of laser cut parts gives the scene crispness and a believable amount of clutter.   The castings you did use are carefully chosen, and everything is placed in a believable way.  

Brilliant work!   :o
Dave

Yes, definitely what Dave said!  And, all of the finishes are outstanding.  The whole thing is just friggin' wonderful, beautiful, fascinating and amazing ... and the lighting is incredible.  Fantastic!

Cheers,
Dallas

Wow....this is one of the most remarkable HO-scale models I've ever seen.
The detail is outstanding and the colors and textures are just perfect.
Fantastic job, Anders.

Hi guys,

Thanks very much for all your comments - much appreciated. Seems like the three hundred hours or so has paid off a bit ;D. Without the help from all the great people here this project wouldn´t have been possible. Too many to mention right now but I´ll get to that when I´m done.

Have started to give the lamp shades a couple of coats so they won´t leak and then I can shoot the final interior pictures. Right after that the front wall will be glued in place and then it´s too late for these kind of pics. Diorama base is prepared and so are all the details for the surrounding areas - guess I´ll be done in a week or two - we´ll see ??? Next project is already in progress - will post soon in a new thread.

Anders ;D

Anders .. with the comments by Ken, Chuck and Dallas .. for a modeler .. well .. that's like canonization by the Pope!

Ha...had to use Google to translate that one! Think I will listen to Nirvana at volume 10 right now! ;D ;D ;D

Thanks Ed,

Anders :o

Ed, I tend to believe Ken, Chuck and Dallas know modelling better than the pope knows God...

Quote from: Junior on March 05, 2011, 01:59:17 AM
Hi guys,

Thanks very much for all your comments - much appreciated. Seems like the three hundred hours or so has paid off a bit ;D. Without the help from all the great people here this project wouldn´t have been possible. Too many to mention right now but I´ll get to that when I´m done.

Have started to give the lamp shades a couple of coats so they won´t leak and then I can shoot the final interior pictures. Right after that the front wall will be glued in place and then it´s too late for these kind of pics. Diorama base is prepared and so are all the details for the surrounding areas - guess I´ll be done in a week or two - we´ll see ??? Next project is already in progress - will post soon in a new thread.

Anders ;D

Boy, those hours sure do add up, don't they?  Certainly have paid off ...

Quick question/idea:  Is there any way that you can change the plans for mounting the front wall to make it removable?  Just an idea ... but I'm planning to make the long front wall on my shop removable for a couple reasons ... one of them is so that I can actually reach in to fix anything that gets knocked loose later ... and, also, to go back for photos or whatever.

Also, I thought of a neat, but seldom-modeled detail for an old tire shop and started to collect photos ... it's an old "Coats tire machine" ... for mounting tires by the "armstrong" method (translation:  hand-operated, using the strength of your arms!) ... one shot below.   If you search for "OLD Coats tire machine" (or antique, vintage, manual, etc) you'll find more photos ...

Cheers,
Dallas

Dallas, that´s a super cool machine have never seen anything like it. :o Could that be placed outdoors - not much room left indoors? :o To have the front wall removable is not a problem in itself however if you take a look at page 11. there´s two goose neck lights above the sign and those should be wired in series with one of the indoor lights. One could of course have some extra long wires hidden somewhere but they are so thin that they are barely visible and very, very fragile and would probably be damaged real quick.

Bill Sartore the LED wizard might have a solution we will see...... ??? ??? ???

Anders  ;D

Quote from: Frederic Testard on March 05, 2011, 06:45:51 AM
Ed, I tend to believe Ken, Chuck and Dallas know modelling better than the pope knows God...

Gee, I'm just happy to be mentioned in the same sentence as Ken & Chuck without being listed as a counterpoint!  ;D

Anders -- It certainly does look like that machine was left outside for a good long time ... since it's hand-operated, I don't see any reason why it couldn't be ... I'll send you an email with some a larger photo and some pix of the tools.

Cheers,
Dallas

More info:  Looks like that old machine is a Coats (brand) "Tireman tire changer" -- so if you put "Coats Tireman tire changer" into an image search you'll find a bunch more related photos, for example:
http://media.photobucket.com/image/coats%20tireman%20tire%20changer/Zematroid/tirechanger005.jpg
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=150798
http://www.interschola.com/template/itemimages/22000s/22295/img_4813.jpg

-- Dallas

Quote from: Junior on March 05, 2011, 09:56:24 AM
To have the front wall removable is not a problem in itself however if you take a look at page 11. there´s two goose neck lights above the sign and those should be wired in series with one of the indoor lights. One could of course have some extra long wires hidden somewhere but they are so thin that they are barely visible and very, very fragile and would probably be damaged real quick.

I'm thinking that you could use some simple plug ins (I think they are available at Radio Shack type stores) - and they might even serve to help hold the front wall in place (depending on depth).  I'm with Dallas - it seems a shame to close it all up permanently.

Oh - and to echo everyone else - really great work... it looks like a late night at the shop - or just as someone is getting ready to close up for the night...

1948 advertisement for the Coats Iron Tireman ...

On a daily basis I look at the work of Doan, Revelia, Nolan, Addison, Sundance Central, etc for small detail ideas.
I just recieved a link to this project and Man !!! what a work of art it is.
Looking forward to spending many hours viewing the uploaded photos.
Also thanks to the members , Marty & Co for the additional background info regarding Auto shops.
The realism is just first class and will inspire many modelers in ALL scales, for many years.

  Congrats again on a incredible project.  

   regards

     Mario Rapinett ( Australia )

Junior, modeling at its finest. Thats the shop where its there, just give me a second to remember where.

Philip

Thanks very much Paul, Mario & Philip. Paul I will look into some possibilities for having the front wall removable. For viewing purposes it really doesen´t matter as the roof is removable but for camera angles it´s essential.

For my previous projcet (Machine Shop) all the fantastic pictures of the Railtown / Jamestown shop posted by you Mario at the Modvid site were invaluable.

Thank you,

Anders ;D

 

Anders,

The inside of that garage is just so perfect.  The detail is amazing.

Jerry

(http://)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F11-03-05_204106_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=fac7a0895ec0e42e5736d0bc37cff20f7fdbd619)..

Just testing to post pictures in a different way.

Anders ??? ;D


Seems to work fine.... ;D

It probably needs a slightly longer exposure. The kind of photo you are trying to produce is tricky. -- Russ

Seriously, it looks like a movie set scene... there should be a couple of guys getting ready to move "green" beer out of the basement or smuggled Canadian whiskey into the back of a Model A pick up.

To include an overused gringo-ism, this truly kicks ass.  8)

Russ or Anders, I'd love some insight into shooting the dark like this... it's one of the things I'd like to practice doing on the really big halftrack project, as the vision in my head (not the one that comes with the voices) was a dusk or dawn scene.  Years ago, I learned how to do it for outdoor shooting but that was a quarter century ago... not to hijack this thread - is there an extant thread around here on this sort of thing?

Paul R.

Looks great to me. Very moody. I'm amazed at how real it looks, yet it's only HO scale.

 


Paul, I think Russ would be the man I´m far from a pro but here is how this picture was shot. The only lights were the LED´s in the buliding. Nikon D5000 with an 18-55 mm lens. F. stop 14 with a 30 second exposure time. Two extra close up lenses (+2 and +3). Three exposures focused at front, middle and rear and then stacked in the Helicon Focus software.
The building is actually 41 scale foot long but looks like it´s half of that in this picture. Guess a wide angle lens would correct that but then you get leaning walls etc. so it´s give and take. At it´s original format 4,1 mB the quality is better than what´s shown here. This one has been reduced to 200 kB.

Ray, thanks for your comments. I was just testing to post a picture through my new photobucket album but I will have new pictures very soon. The diorama is close to being finished.

Anders :)

The last picture is absolutly wonderful
reminds me the place of a tractor repair shop near Limon not very far where I live
looks the same with the "bordello" inside :D
congratulation for this model Anders
I keep your pics in my computer
Think it could be a nice screen backdrop

Chris .. EXCELLENT idea! So ..

I agree, great mood. Looks like that Helicon software (or something like it) is the way to go for minature depth of field.

CombineZM (http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file/fid,84627/description.html) is a free program that evidently does the same thing/similar fashion.

Tutorial for stacking with CombineZM software (http://www.redbubble.com/macro-photography/forums/172/topics/12909-tutorial-for-stacking-with-combinezm-software)

You can also adjust depth of field in Photoshop with adjustment layers or Tilt/Shift actions.

Geez Ed, do you have enough icons on your desktop...  ;)

Paul

Yah .. need to clean that up!

That's cool ED  :o
thanks again to Anders  :D

Ed - why do you have an icon on your desk top that says "Core Reactor Breach"?  The one right next the "Penguins Gone Wild" shortcut?

Pablo sends

I cleaned up the desktop since :)

Guys,

A couple of things remains such as two lamp posts along the road, one in the backyard area and improved lights for the office structure. Will shoot the final night pictures as soon as I recieve the LED´s from light wizard Bill Satore. He is also including some nano LED´s that I´m planning to install in the head lights of an A Ford.

Meanwhile here are some better night pictures than the previous ones (not as compressed) and of course the sunny spring pictures from yesterday with just a temporary background. Managed to make the front wall removable, the wires for the lights above the sign can be pulled up from underneath the building and as the green trim is angled the wall has a pretty tight fit without any glue. The wires are visible in one of the interior shots (up front by the floor boards) and are actually thinner than a human hair.

Any suggestions on how to improve this project before I put it to rest are most welcome. A big "thank you" to all the people involved will be included with the final pictures.

Anders ???

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Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Outstanding work!

Since you asked for suggestions:
1) I would remove a few random tools from that tool board on the back wall, as if someone has not
    returned them.   Some shops I have worked in had painted shapes on the board where the special
    service tools were supposed to be stored.  It was always funny to see all of these wierd painted
    silhouettes with no tools.
2) Most Oxy-Acetylene hoses are color coded red and green, not gray (at least now-a-days).
3) Any wood furniture left outside in the desert would not have much paint left on the top surfaces
    for very long.  I would weather the heck out of the horizontal surfaces of that blue table and chairs.

Excellent Anders! The gas pump sales is a great way to use those other pumps. The stuff hanging in the window looks good from the outside too. Back to looking...

The lamp posts and car will finish it off nicely, especially in the night scenes.    That dry landscape with the weeds turned out really well, hope Mr. Krakow has a Coke cooler inside!   Reminds me I have an HO scale fiber optic illuminated soda machine prototype to finish.  Its a 50's vintage design, so wouldn't work for your 1930s diorama.  

Dave

This is one of the most outstanding HO-scale dioramas I've
ever seen, and the photography is breathtaking.
The entire scene, inside and out, is downright Chuckdonian.....

Yeah, Ken, that pretty well sums it up. -- Russ

Every imaginable detail packed into a great dio! the night shots are so cool!

Philip  8)

You wouldn't believe this is possible if you didn't see it.
I consider myself very priviledged since I should be able to see it for real in a few weeks...

Excellent work!

I also like the machine shop featured in the current Annual.

Quote from: Rasputen on April 11, 2011, 07:23:44 AM
Outstanding work!

Since you asked for suggestions:
1) I would remove a few random tools from that tool board on the back wall, as if someone has not
    returned them.   Some shops I have worked in had painted shapes on the board where the special
    service tools were supposed to be stored.  It was always funny to see all of these wierd painted
    silhouettes with no tools.
2) Most Oxy-Acetylene hoses are color coded red and green, not gray (at least now-a-days).
3) Any wood furniture left outside in the desert would not have much paint left on the top surfaces
    for very long.  I would weather the heck out of the horizontal surfaces of that blue table and chairs.

Thanks very much guys - much appreciated!

Oh yeah the tool boards are a mistake but quite difficult to rearrange at this point  but will give it a try. The table and chairs are quite weathered (not really visible in the picture) but maybe not enough so let´s assume they were a darker blue color when new as they would require a complete rebuild.
The tank hoses are easy to repaint. Anyway great input....thanks!

Anders ;D

Anders

For HO or for that matter any scale this is just one unbelievable diorama.  Excellent work by you.

Jerry

Anders,

This is really a beautiful piece of work...and the scale makes it even that much more incredible.


Marc

I'm totally amazed at what I see. The best 1/87 scale build I can remember seeing. And you're right Anders, that wire is incredibly thin.

"Chuckdonian" indeed!

Sent the rest of the LEDs off to Anders yesterday. Sure wouldn't want to make a living soldering nano LEDs all day long. I wonder if I could hire Mr. Mudgeon to do some of the work. He has smaller hands and is experienced at model building....

Bill/slim

Thanks very much Jerry, Marc, Chester and Bill.

Bill...I wouldn´t count on Mr. Mudgeon - saw him recently in Sweden with an injured hand or is it his twin brother? ???

Anders ;D ;D(http://)

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...probably burned himself with soldering iron...

Bill

Bill Sartore, how do I contact you with regard to LED lighting products?
-Younger

Son of a biscuit eater!  Mudgeon's off with the gypsies again ... guess he's trying to work his way over to Anders' place to see how a finished repair shop should look.  (Nice job!)  -- Dallas

Younger - I sent you a PM.

Bill

Quote from: Malachi Constant on April 13, 2011, 02:15:34 PM
Son of a biscuit eater!  Mudgeon's off with the gypsies again ...

Better watch yourself Dallas...I think Mudgeon and the Gypsies have gotten hold of a Panther tank.

Marc

Guys, I think this it - all the lights are there except for the lights on the A Ford. Many thanks to all of you who helped out on this project, first of all Dave Krakow www.vectorcut.com who supplied many outstanding parts (some custom made) and knowledge through the entire build - must have been over one hundred e-mails. Chuck Doan for sending me many prototype pictures that eventually resulted in the small building. Christian Jacquet for designing the graphics and Bill Satore www.microlumina.com who provided all the lights and of course all you guys who posted prototype pictures and all sorts of input.

Anders  ;D

Pic.1

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There are many, many things right with this project...but one of the best(to me) are the graphics. You have really nailed the signs, and I mean the hand lettered ones. Mostly these are done wrong, and maybe it just maters to someone like me who is interested in typography!

These pics are great too, I'd love to see the viewpoint lowered down to eye level a bit more, it would really put you "in" the scene.

Paul

Anders,

Thanks for the extraordinary trip back in time.  And in HO scale no less!!!

Jerry

Simply fabulous!

Those night shots are fantastic. The whole thing has a real, un-contrived feel. Congratulations on a great project Anders!

Was looking at the photos and saw Chuck's post .. and can't help grinning at the thought of Anders as a Chuck Doan 'Mini me' ... haha

  a 3D documentation.  Very wel done.

  comparing Chuck's and Anders'  work with each other is like comparing apples and pears.
  Each is so different, have their own appeal and can easily stand side by side in what is possible in various scales. 
  The ultimate will be both models standing side by side to absorb the differences.

 Jacq

Those night shots are absolutely incredible.
I'll say it again:  This is the most convinclngly real HO diorama I've ever seen.

Anders, we won't let you get away that easy. Can you explain the construction / wiring of the lamp posts a little?
They turned out really nice. Just like everything else.  ::)

Anders,

can really only agree with all the comments .... the night shots are fantastic, however agree with the comments re maybe shooting some more at "eye level" think that would add even more realism to some great modelling

Anders,

it´s wonderful, that´s a great job :)  When I see your fantastic pictures, ...


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...I can not believe that it is only 1:87!

Admit it, you use the same trick like I have used recently here ;D: for every purpose a different size of the coin:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7443%2F29031_Cent_gefaellig.jpg&hash=6cf6f66a5f27f0ef2c3965df9761da47b1f7bd26)


Frithjof

Don't be giving away all the secrets!

Mr. Krakow better have a pretty freakin' big cash register!   :)

Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Quote from: fspg2 on April 28, 2011, 01:07:25 PM
Admit it, you use the same trick like I have used recently here ;D: for every purpose a different size of the coin:
Frithjof

Ah ha... the return of the giant penny...  ;)

Paul

Beautiful! An amazing level of realism and detail for HO scale.

What kind of LEDs were used? What voltage do they run on?

Thanks very much guys for all the kind input - much appreciated. I think the advise on the camera angle came out real nice so here we go again with some new pictures - no night pictures yet.

Christian, I have some close up pictures of the lamp posts that I could e-mail you and at the same time describe how they were wired.

Ray, the LED´s are from this manufacturer http://ngineering.com/index.htm and operate on 9 V. Bill Sartore was kind enough to solder the wires to the LED´s. I believe this can be a real nightmare.

Frithjof, those Euro cents look great...... :o

Anders ;D

Pic. 1

(//img%20width=800%20height=535%5Dhttp://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j344/fiffistorp/Forum%20pictures/11-04-29_112454_MB_R8_S4.jpg)][/img]

Pic.2[im(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F11-04-29_112151_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=764148953f2ccd8737ec85923f0ed34e220c3516)g][/img]

Pic.3[i(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F11-04-29_111919_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=03d6c936f36f8a1547226966074bb097333af119)mg][/img]

Paul and Gordon, maybe these pictures would look better if they were cropped a bit or at least remove some of the bushes that now are a bit disturbing ???. What do you think? So far I think they look better and thanks very much for the advice.

Anders  ;D

Anders, your modelling just get better the more I study your photos.

I am no expert, in fact very much the bumbling amateur but FWIW here's my slight alterations , cropped slightly and I have adjusted the mid-tones ..... hopefully to give the effect of a hot, slightly dusty day.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F11-04-29_111919_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=484e16571affb25395d158c0a4a799066b0d39b1)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F11-04-29_112454_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=6b53605bc3a1441617f0dbc3667a750f8b4819fe)

Even with me mucking around with your photos its still great modelling

Thanks Gordon - improved again! The shadow of the camera lens was pretty obvious to me but the other things I hadn´t thought about.

Anders  ;D

PS. For those of you who are interested more pictures here: http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_anders_malmberg_krakow_s_auto_.html

Great stuff! The eye-level views look superb.

Some of you asked how the wiring gets done on the little LEDs. I use a two-step process. First, I tin the wires that I will be using to attach to the LED. The wire has a heat-stripable insulation that burns off between 700 and 800 degrees F. Tinning and stripping is done in one step. Here is a link to a video that shows the process:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9483972/1-Tinning.wmv (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9483972/1-Tinning.wmv)

There is no audio in the video as I normally just talk over it while showing it at the lighting clinic that I present. The first scene show the tools that I use. The tape is used to hold the pieces of wire. The damp sponge is used to keep the soldering iron tip clean. In the second scene i tin the wire by sticking it into the solder blob on the end of the soldering iron. The third scene shows the process in slow motion. What you want to achieve is a clean and distinct separation between tinned wire and insulated wire. I go on to show what happens if the solder is too hot. Here you'll see that there is a transition from tinned wire to uninsulated bare copper wire to insulated wire. This isn't good since the bare wires can short out when they get twisted together later on. If the soldering iron is too cold then the wire doesn't doo much of anything when you stick into the solder blob. It comes out the same way it went in. In needs the right amount of heat.

Unfortunately, the heat needed to tin/strip the wire is too much for the LED so we can't use that hot soldering iron to attach the wire directly to the LED in one step. After tinning the wire we attach the wire with a smaller, 12 watt soldering iron with a needle tip. I show the process here:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9483972/2-Soldering.wmv (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9483972/2-Soldering.wmv)

Again. no audio but it's fairly self explanatory. The rosin flux pen isn't a necessity but it helps. You don't want to apply too much heat to the LED. That's why I like to keep the tip of the soldering iron off to the side and let the solder flow up the wire an onto the LED.

If anyone is crazy enough to want to do this send me an email and I can set you up with the necessary tools. The LEDs I wired for Ander's project were the yellow-white LEDs manufactured by Ngineering.com. They are the closest I've seen to an incandescent light in color. They're a little pricier than some other ones that I offer. The less expensive LEDs can be tinted but I thought that Anders would want the LEDs in his diorama to have a consistent color.

I still can't get over the job that Anders did on this project. You look at the photos and can smell the wood and oil and hear the crickets in the night shot.

Bill

Woah ... and .. WOAH!! Excellent! (and don't try this after a couple cups of coffee!)

Bill -- Thanks for the write-up and vids!

Anders -- Always nice to stop in again and have another look.  ;)

Cheers,
Dallas

  Hello Anders,  Had great fun going thru this thread!!!    Awesome modelling in my favorite scale,  Congratulations!!!


     Randy

Thanks guys! Randy....favorite scale? Thought 1/25 would be your thing after seeing that monster build in the car thread.

Anders  ;D

Fantastisk detaljert, Anders!!! Thumbs up....

This is the most extreme modelling I've ever seen in this scale, Anders.
Its a joy to watch every time...

ff
Ove, Norway

Tack så mycket Ove and welcome to this great forum!

Anders  ;D