Westlake Publishing Forums

Hi,

Thank you gentlemen!

I wrote:

QuoteThe wall of boards, slightly tilted by the sand, makes a wonderful motif for a replica.

However, I now find it more logical that the crane operator probably bumped a little roughly against the board wall with his grab... especially as the left corner post appears to be quite bent.

So I bent the two left-hand posts a little more.

Hafenmodul_31 (fspg2)



The boards were sawn from 10.0 mm x 3.0 mm lime wood, which had previously been sanded with 80 g sandpaper on a belt sander.
They were then treated with various brown and gray stains.
After drying, I put them in the tumbler for 10 to 15 minutes.
This gave me the first sandy impression.
When all the boards are firmly assembled, they will receive an individual finishing treatment.


Holz im Tumbler_02 (fspg2)



Holz im Tumbler_01 (fspg2)



The board wall of the sand pile grows slowly.

Hafenmodul_32 (fspg2)


The two missing upper boards and the third broken board are evidence of the "accident" with the grab.

Are you sure the guy with the sledge hammer didn't attack the two missing boards and the support posts? He looks angry.

This addition will look wonderful when you tone down the board colors and add sand and scenery. Work faster!

Russ

It's those kind of details that add credibility to the entire project. Good stuff.

You have an excellent eye for detail.

Bernhard

@Russ

QuoteAre you sure the guy with the sledge hammer didn't attack the two missing boards and the support posts? He looks angry.

He is annoyed because he will soon have to shovel back the sand that fell out during the incident.

Originally, I had the idea of paving the entire road area with individual cast stones.

Gullideckel_014 (fspg2)


Apart from the fact that, in addition to the weight of the ceramic material [/color][/size]used, the working time for casting and gluing the stones also had to be considered, I looked for alternatives.

Volker had shown one possibility in his modules with embossing or for registered visitors: here

When I then took a closer look at my pictures of the original paving from the former position of the crane, the stones looked very similar to some of the structural rolls from the tabletop area.


Strukturrollen-Prägeeinheit-09 (fspg2)



So a few of these rolls were purchased and the first tests were carried out. Depending on the amount of pressure applied, the stone structure in the existing Styrodur panels came out more or less clearly.
One disadvantage is certainly the small width of the individual rolls.

The textured rolls 3D-printed especially for rigid foam sheets are between 122mm and 184mm wide.

The transparent textured rolls from GREEN STUFF WORLD are often used in the tabletop sector for designing bases that harden in the air. With rigid foam, considerably more pressure must be exerted to achieve a clearly visible indentation between the stones!


Strukturrollen-Prägeeinheit-10 (fspg2)




My hot wire cutter can also cut rigid foam parts up to 140 mm high only.
As I also want to create some wider road paving, the embossing rollers should run parallel to the outer edges of the rigid foam panels so that as few edges as possible are visible when assembling.

There is a small device for the H0 range that makes parallel guidance easy.

So a slightly larger unit was milled from 9.0 mm multiplex and plugged together.


Strukturrollen Prägeeinheit 01 (fspg2)


Strukturrollen Prägeeinheit 02 (fspg2)


Strukturrollen Prägeeinheit 03 (fspg2)



The following animation shows the structure of this unit:

Strukturrollen Prägeeinheit 04 (fspg2)


Strukturrollen-Prägeeinheit-05 (fspg2)


Strukturrollen-Prägeeinheit-06 (fspg2)


Strukturrollen-Prägeeinheit-07 (fspg2)


As I usually need 15.0mm thick rigid foam boards, I have set the distance between the upper embossing roller and the lower sliding roller to 23.0mm (9.0mm guide board + 15.0mm Styrodur results in 24.0mm) ... so with a clearance height of 23.0mm, an embossing depth of approx. 1.0mm is achieved.
Vigorous pushing is the order of the day. The result is much more even with parallel edges compared to rolling by hand!


Strukturrollen-Prägeeinheit-08 (fspg2)


If thinner rigid foam boards are also to be structured, I simply place appropriate auxiliary boards between the guide board and the board to be embossed.

We should have known you would invent the perfect tool to obtain the results you want. Once again I am impressed. == Russ

With the structured foam boards, the road surface can certainly be represented just as convincingly as with individual stones.

Bernhard

A wonderfully engineered solution, as always!

But....

Looking at you reference image it is clear that the overall surface is far from flat.  I'm not sure the rollers you have capture the effect (although the product is quite nice).

I imagine it would be relatively simple to design a bespoke roller that was spot on? I've been playing with similar ideas to make corrugated metal.  It's easy to do and you can purchase/download appropriate rollers.  However the results were not particularly close to the pitch and height that I wanted. A bit of tweaking to roller profile generated a much better result.

@Russ
I didn't develop it, I just built a slightly larger version...

@Bernhard
I agree!

@Lawrence
You're right, when using the textured rollers, all the stones are pressed in more or less equally.
I achieve an uneven road surface by partially underlaying with cardboard or hard foam sheets of varying thicknesses (in the 1-3 millimeter range).
However, if individual stones are significantly raised or recessed, I can carefully cut them out with a fine scalpel and slightly reduce their height or glue them back in place slightly raised.
As shown here by the manufacturer of various textured rollers: click


While the pile of sand in the picture "Hafenmodul_29" was still an HDF skeleton, I have now glued various  hard foam sheet remnants between the frames and shaped them with a cutter.
Then a thick layer of waterproof wood glue was brushed on and covered with kitchen roll paper.
Once everything was completely dry, I applied "MOLTO wood repair filler" over it to smooth out any unevenness and holes. This wood filler is easy to sand and drill after drying: Product description

Hafenmodul_33 (fspg2)


In the end, I got a solid surface, no matter how thick it was applied. In addition, it is still slightly flexible and, above all, it does not shrink!
Especially on the edges of my modules, which I had already treated with this wood repair filler in 2010, there are still no chips or cracks—quite unlike what I had experienced several times in the past when using plaster.
Next, the final sand will cover everything.
Since "angular, sharp-edged sand" has a angle of repose of 32° to 35°, I checked the structure using a small template with an angle of 34°.
   

At the same time, I considered the sheet piling used at that time. Unlike modern sheet piling, the old ones at Lauenburg loading and unloading area – where the coin crane used to stand – no sloping side edges, but right angles.


Spundwand-Lauenburg_01 (fspg2)



Spundwand-Lauenburg_02 (fspg2)



Spundwand-Lauenburg_03 (fspg2)



Spundwand-Lauenburg_04 (fspg2)



Spundwand-Lauenburg_05 (fspg2)



Spundwand_A-Drücken_Animation (fspg2)


I made my first attempt using 0.1 mm thick copper foil that had been annealed beforehand.
With the help of various templates, both the yellow angles and, later, the additional cranked green angles are to be shaped.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_06 (fspg2)



Here is the first of around 70 yellow sections....

Spundwand-Lauenburg_07 (fspg2)



At the moment, however, I am considering whether I should simply glue appropriately sawn wooden square strips onto a base plate (which will be approx. 230 cm long and 12 cm high) and simply glue the middle bends on as sheet metal strips... especially since the approx. 140 individual thin copper angles also need a wooden base.

Let's see if I deviate from my usual approach and don't use sheet metal this time, even though metal was used in the original.

If you want to replace metal with something else and retain the appearance of metal, why not styrene? -- Russ

Interesting, I'm looking forward to your definitive solution. I need a similar sheet piling for the dock where my Hulett Ore Unloader is located. My first idea was to realize this with 3D printed parts.

Bernhard

@Russ
Styrene would certainly be an option, and another idea was to build a section as a master model and reproduce it using a silicone mold. That might have been quicker and probably similar in terms of cost, but resin is not metal.

@Bernhard
Given my dimensions, 3D printing with resin would be significantly more expensive, especially since I don't like "sausage-making" FDM printers!
Given your scale of 1:35, it would certainly be worth considering.


I wrote:

QuoteAt the moment, however, I am considering whether I should simply glue appropriately sawn wooden square strips onto a base plate (which will be approx. 230 cm long and 12 cm high) and simply glue the middle bends on as sheet metal strips... especially since the approx. 140 individual thin copper angles also need a wooden base.

Sometimes it's good to sleep on it

Apart from the fact that the cranked version would bear no resemblance to the original and I didn't feel like gluing 140 thin strips of sheet metal exactly in the middle, why not just glue small T-profiles into a groove milled in the middle?


Spundwand-Lauenburg_01b (fspg2)



Spundwand-Lauenburg_08 (fspg2)



Spundwand-Lauenburg_09 (fspg2)



A 5.0 mm thick HDF board was milled with corresponding grooves to serve as the base.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_10 (fspg2)



The 16.5 mm wide raised sheet pile sections were sawn from a 20.0 mm x 10.0 mm beech strip...

Spundwand_Lauenburg_13 (fspg2)



...and cut a 1.5 mm deep groove in the center using a 0.5 mm wide saw blade on my Böhler circular saw.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_14 (fspg2)




A total of five sections were milled from two HDF boards, which together measure around 2.5 m in length. I chose to mill them into sections because it makes them easier to work with before they are finally installed.


Spundwand-Lauenburg_15 (fspg2)



Today, the first 3.0 meters of 1.5 mm x 1.5 mm T-profile arrived in the mail and was already installed on a trial basis....

Spundwand-Lauenburg_16 (fspg2)


...I like it.

Now I only need 15.0 meters from this T-Profil...
I'm also waiting for the additional 0.1 mm copper foil I ordered to be delivered...

Amazing as always.  It will look fantastic.

Lacking your workshop and patience, I would vacuum form the piling from styrene sheet.

It's a simple pattern and would work very well.  I'd do a number of repeats, to limit the number of joins needed.  Our local library has small vacuum formers (and many other maker gadgets) that are free to use, so it would be simple and inexpensive to do here. But I know people who have successfully used fairly crude DIY setups if a machine isn't available.

Nothing wrong with that. Now let's see what kind of magic you ultimately use to complete the wall. --  Russ

@Lawrence
Unfortunately, we do not have such a library.


We made a little progress.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_17 (fspg2)


 
First, I cut 50 strips (120 mm x 40 mm) from the 0.1 mm thick copper foil roll using a paper cutting machine.
The further sequence:
1 – annealing with a small burner,
2 – folding the first side (approx. 16.0 mm),
3 – the shorter leg was then cut on the sheet metal cutting machine using an 8.0 mm spacer board,
4 – now the second side was folded using small Pertinax angles,
5 – the now longer leg was cut (as in 3.).


Finally, the two 90° angles between two milled Pertinax angles were smoothed.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_18 (fspg2)




An initial attempt to press both angles in one go resulted in the Z shape, but the vertical height was not really accurate. Bending in several steps resulted in only two inaccuracies in the first 50 pieces, caused by carelessness when holding the templates.

Here are some parts that have already been inserted for testing—they will be glued later.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_19 (fspg2)



In the meantime, thirteen (of nineteen) meters of 1.5 mm x 1.5 mm T-profile were delivered by various suppliers, so that I could cut them to length and burnish them

Spundwand-Lauenburg_21 (fspg2)


I soaked the first 50 bent sheets in acetone for five minutes to degrease them and tested browning two of them... However, the browning was unfortunately very uneven and could be wiped off in some places. There were probably still traces of grease left.

So I made another attempt, but this time it was much more complicated. I milled a few pockets into a piece of Pertinax and placed the bent sheets of metal in them. Two appropriately milled HDF retaining plates held the sheets in the recesses while I applied the sandblaster with light pressure.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_20 (fspg2)


Some slightly warped sheets could be quickly pressed back into shape after this treatment. Now the burnishing adhered to the slightly roughened surface.


I then used thick superglue for metal to glue the first parts to the wooden support. In the following picture, the T-profiles are only loosely pressed in so far.

Spundwand-Lauenburg_22 (fspg2)


There is still a little more to do

Spundwand-Lauenburg_23 (fspg2)