Hulett Ore Unloader in 1:32th

[Bernhard]

Then the 6 different diagonal struts can be soldered on.





A few cross struts are also added.

[Bernhard]

The creation of another cross strut in 4 pictures:

[Bernhard]

Now repeat the whole process on the other side, and the result will look like this:



Then insert all the struts between the two main girders to test the fit.





The final assembly will only take place after the main girders and all struts and trusses have been painted.

[Bernhard]

Next, I'm building the cover over the drive motor that moves the whole machine along the dock.

[Bernhard]

And now for the small trusses that belong at the bottom of the bridge girders.





All of this adds up to a nice pile of parts that have now been glass bead blasted and cleaned and are waiting to be painted and installed.

[Bernhard]

Then I put the whole assembly back in the right position so that I could start attaching the side walks.







It looks completely different than when the part is lying on its back!

So, now I'm going to turn off the lights in the workshop, pack my suitcase, and head off to the Great Lakes!

Bernhard

[finescalerr]

My goodness!

Have a wonderful trip.

Russ

[Bill Gill]

So, now I'm going to turn off the lights in the workshop, pack my suitcase, and head off to the Great Lakes! Bernhard

Have a great trip. When you get back you will have no trouble finding the Hulet Ore Unloader because your work will shine in the dark.

[Lawrence@NZFinescale]

It looks completely different than when the part is lying on its back!

Amazing whichever way up it is!

[Hauk]

Fantastic work!
This must surely be one of the largest brass models ever built?

PS: What sort of solder and flux do you use?

[Bernhard]

Thanks Russ, Bill, Lawrence, and Hauk.

PS: What sort of solder and flux do you use?

I use solid solder wire S-Sn60Pb40 without flux filling as solder. However, I don't know if this quality is still available today, as it obviously contains lead.
As a flux, I use soldering water FM 344 from a German manufacturer CFH, which is also available from retailers in other countries.
Don't forget: always clean the soldering points thoroughly with sandpaper before soldering!

Bernhard

[Hauk]

Thanks Russ, Bill, Lawrence, and Hauk.

PS: What sort of solder and flux do you use?

I use solid solder wire S-Sn60Pb40 without flux filling as solder. However, I don't know if this quality is still available today, as it obviously contains lead.
As a flux, I use soldering water FM 344 from a German manufacturer CFH, which is also available from retailers in other countries.
Don't forget: always clean the soldering points thoroughly with sandpaper before soldering!

Bernhard

Mad Dogs and Englishmen still use leaded solders. So you can still get tin/lead solder from British suppliers. I have tried non-leaded solders, and to put it short, they dont cut it.
Personally, I use a 188C soldering cream that is sold as a spackeling compund for automobile bodywork, so it is not affected by the legislation against leaded solder in the EU/EEA countries.

[Chuck Doan]

Beyond incredible.

[Barney]

Outstanding workmanship and more than incredible !!
Barney

[Stuart]

Stunning, absolutely stunning!

Stuart