Westlake Publishing Forums

That looks absolutely realistic.

Bernhard

The windows have all been installed in the meantime, and the window sills have been mounted in front of them.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_345 (fspg2)


There's definitely a certain resemblance to the prototype.

Rotstein_Lagerschuppen_01_Helmut_Schmidt_ (fspg2)


Inside the old storage shed there's a motor-driven winch for the crane beam. Its mounting anchors pass through the wall and are secured on the outside of the gable front with iron plates.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_339 (fspg2)


Alter_Lagerschuppen_340 (fspg2)


Alter_Lagerschuppen_341 (fspg2)


Alter_Lagerschuppen_342 (fspg2)


I already reported on the construction of the winch in detail back in 2009 -

have a look: https://www.buntbahn.de/viewtopic.php?t=6691&start=190 - and https://www.buntbahn.de/viewtopic.php?t=6691&sid=f4dec3997d457db62e1d8ccbcec7ce94&start=210


Now it was time to continue. First, the "iron plates" were milled from 0.3 mm nickel silver, and 1.0 mm brass threaded rods were soldered to M1.0 nuts. Then everything was sandblasted and blackened.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_343 (fspg2)


The already pre-assembled winch was pushed, with its threaded rods, through the six 1.1 mm holes drilled in the gable wall...

Alter_Lagerschuppen_346 (fspg2)


...and secured from the outside with the small anchor plates and M1.0 nuts.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_346 (fspg2)


To make it easier to pick up the tiny M1.0 nuts with the nut driver, I simply set them with their bottom sides on the sticky side of Tesa masking tape. That eliminates the tedious fiddling with my fingers, and the work goes much faster.

M1.0 nut with nut driver (fspg2)


I found it a bit tricky to solder the fork for the cable pulley at a right angle to the bent nickel-silver strip (0.2 mm thick, 1.5 mm high). The 1.0 mm holes will later accept the 1.0 mm axle of the cable pulley, so they had to line up exactly.

To align them, I had originally planned to use a 1.0 mm brass wire that I had colored black with a permanent marker, since marker ink usually works as a solder resist. With parts this small, though, I wasn't sure I'd be able to get the wire back out afterward without damaging the thin nickel-silver sheet. I didn't have a wire made of silver steel that thin, which solder wouldn't stick to in the first place.

Volker came up with the solution (many thanks for that!): the shank of a 1.0 mm drill bit aligned both parts reliably and didn't pick up any solder. A small block of Pertinax (phenolic laminate) served as a stop to ensure the right angle. I did the soldering with a 12 V / 8 W soldering iron.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_344 (fspg2)

Exceptional work  - so realistic and true to the prototype
Barney

Excellent work.

Very nice, as always!
Were do you get your M1.0 nuts, by the way?

Thanks, guys!

@Hauk
Check this out: https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/302-10.html

Well done!  Excellent work!

Stuart