Westlake Publishing Forums

For the blackline graphics, I used the DecalProFX system, which is a fairly complex multi-step process.
It goes something like this, in simplified form believe it or not:

1.   You print your graphics using a laser printer on a special transfer paper from DecalPro.  (I generated my graphics using Adobe InDesign.)  A wide border around each graphic helps with later steps.
2.   You select the color you want the transfers to be using a special transfer film.  In this case I chose a black film.
3.   You place the film on top of the printed graphic and run it through a laminating machine to melt the colored film to the toner on the laser print.  Then you peel the film off of the printed page.  At this point the film is still bonded to the toner.
4.   You place a thin sheet of mylar on the top of the graphic and run it through the laminator.  This forms a static bond between the mylar and the film/toner layer.
5.   You soak the mylar/paper in water for a few minutes.  There's a coating on the transfer paper that dissolves in water, allowing the mylar and graphics to separate from the transfer paper.
6.   You dry the film, and then spray the back side with a special spray adhesive. 
7.   Then you apply the graphic to the model surface like a regular dry transfer, and peel off the mylar film.

The result is a graphic that is as crisp and precise as the original laser print.  I'm really happy with the results, but with some footnotes.  I had a fairly high failure rate with creating the transfers.  Each of the steps in the process failed multiple times, but I attribute most of this to my mistakes.  I suppose I'll get better with practice.  The finished surfaces of the transfers is fairly glossy.  A coating of satin varnish solved this problem.  I also had trouble with some of the fine line work and serifs on the small lettering - you can see a gap in one of the lines in the attached photos.  Again, maybe weathering can deal with these spots. 

Very interesting! Thanks for describing the process.

Volker

I started the weathering process over the weekend, for good or for bad.  My first step was to spray the entire car with a very thin layer of a dust color using Tamiya XF-57 Buff.  I like how this toned everything down and blended the colors a bit.  I've lost some contrast though, so I'm hoping I can get this back with some washes.  I'm going to tackle the underside of the car first since it will be mostly hidden from view.  This will let me experiment without terribly visible results if I don't like the outcome.

One lesson I have learned.  On previous models I have pre-painted the individual parts as much as possible before doing the final assembly.  I did this in places, but in some locations - like the door hardware and corner braces - I assembled things first and then hand painted the components.  I see armor modelers working this way a lot.  I don't know if it's just my lack of hand painting skill, or something else, but I hated working this way.  I just couldn't get the crisp demarcations between colors like I'm used to.

Either your camera is hiding imperfections or you're overly critical of your work. -- Russ

Probably a bit of both...

Eric -

I'm with Russ on this one. From what I can see all is looking very good --- most satisfactory.

Stuart

I started weathering on the underbody with a wash of ABT 502 Light Mud 125, thinned with an odorless Turpenoid.  I mostly concentrated on the metal fittings because the wood framing absorbed so much of the wash that you couldn't see any effect.  Lesson learned - I should have sprayed a mat varnish on the wood first.

The dust wash was followed by a wash of ABT 502 Light Rust 060.

I applied splatters above the trucks using the same dust wash, followed by washes of ABT 502 Earth 093 and ABT 502 Dark Mud 130, working light to dark on the colors.

Once all of that was done, I wasn't happy with how the rust-over-dust washes made a sort of orange sherbet color in places, so I applied an overall wash of ABT 502 Black 004.  This toned things down a bit and I'm happier with the results.

As a last step, I did a little bit of dry brushing here and there with Tamiya XF-66 Light Grey.

And here's where I am.  I'm calling this finished for now.  The roof is next.

Looks good, Eric. I've also gotten 'orange sherbert' once or twice with rust over dust or dust over rust. You toned it down nicely.

Looks good enough to run the car upside down. -- Russ

Looking good in fact excellent
Barney

Fantastic work!

Thanks for the encouragement everyone!