Westlake Publishing Forums

Nice job John.  Coloring is great.  Yes do some more posts of the comparison.

Jerry

Thank you guys for your kind words. Marty; I would really appreciate you describing in detail how you paint knot holes. I agree the plastic version needs them. Remember this is my first try so am wandering in the dark. On the real wood knot holes, I've tried painting beforehand with limited success. These are real knotholes, that is, twigs that are glued in the holes and trimmed. Cutting them off and sanding the surface makes it difficult to maintain the colored surfaces. What I've done here is to glue from only one side with CA. It has been heavily sanded but still limits the Silverwood penetration. So......I put the limited side underneath where it will eventually be covered with details, weathering, mud and stuff and on the outer portion of the sides where they will be painted.

John

Hey John,
Here is how I do knots;
Put a thick "dot" of raw umber or even black on the spot.
Then take a very dry, very soft, old brush and gently wipe in one direction, but not too hard, then go in the other direction. If you make the knot to light or it disappears repeat.

On the real ones maybe try getting them flush first(tape on one side?) stain, then glue.?.

-Marty

Marty,

I'll try your knot hole painting on the plastic version when I get across the street Monday. Thank you very much. On the real wood one, here is a shot of a real wood gondola where I stained the wood before gluing in the knotholes. Since we are graining the wood to get a more weathered effect and we want the graining to go around the holes, I think the best way may be to drill the holes, do the graining, then stain the wood and lastly to glue in the knots. Those can then be trimmed, glued, lightly sanded and finally retouched. I used CA which is probably a bad choice as it wicks so much that it seals a lot of surrounding wood. Maybe you have a better choice?

These are very new techniques for me so I'm in a steep learning curve. I know my next attempt will incorporate a few different steps than this present project.

Sorry that the knots in the gondola far side don't show well but when I took that picture, I was focusing on the outside.

John

John, what about just "press fit" the knots?
Use a tapered end and jam them in, if one falls out, no biggie, it happens to the real wood.
Keep at it, your doing better than I!
May be I can post of pic of the building here soon <grin>
-Marty

Some progress....
Color is a little off, the sun was setting on another beautiful day in Southern Florida.


IMPORTANT!
What is the opinion of ya'll on the color of the front doors? (they are unpainted right now)
Do I do them green like the lower panels or white?
Thanks for the input.
-Marty

-MJ

I'm a green guy anyway!  So I would say green to set the white off around them.

Jerry

I kinda like the wood.
The building is shaping up well.

John

   Marty,

   can I place an order       Looks very good.

   Jacq

Marty, looks very good. I like too much the scribbed wood (er... styrene). Very helpful to me.
Thanks for sharing!!!
Lucas

More progress.
The glass is all in, doors on (even a doorknob!) and an awning.
I am going to weather the awning some, the fading was done in the pooter before printing.
-Marty

Great effects on everything Marty. Will you be doing something more to the concrete apron out front?

Marty,

A nice project. Very cohesive and complimentary in appearance, finish and weathering.

I like your fading on the striped awning, and think once you do the final weathering/staining on it, it will be perfect.


Marc

Marty, are you "cheating" by using a computer to print artwork on paper? That disqualifies your entire model!! -- Russ

-MJ

First this then the garage must have been day behind the camera.

Excellent job the awning came out really nice and I think Marc is right with a little weathering we will be talking perfection.  But I expected that anyway. Beautiful job.

Jerry