Westlake Publishing Forums

Hauk -- you may want to check out a master modeler named Michael Rinaldi who uses artists oils to create some absolutely stunning weathering and aging effects on his models. I have a couple of his books which describes the process he uses. He is also available on YouTube and hosts regular podcasts where he demonstrates his methods on different projects he is working on.



Stuart

I haven't done washes with Tamiya XF paint, but a modeller I know really likes thinning Tamiya with 70% isopropanol and says even later he can easily remove the paint with 90% isopropanol even after it has been on a model for a long time, so it seems like it should work for thin washes.

Is it generally agreed that acrylics like Tamiya XF series diluted with isopropanol (X20A) is a poor choice for washes?

You are milling parts more narrow than my laser can cut. -- Russ

The lower image looks 1:1 scale. -- Russ

The next topic is the anteroom for the roof access hatch in the attic. Don't mind the coarse coloring, most parts won't be visible later on.






Cheers,
Volker

Hauk,

I think the lower example is a really good start. Maybe you may try some enamel / oil based colors and a solvent. It gives your work a special odour, but may eliminate the problems of water or alcohol based thinners. Whenever I try to achieve very softly outfading washes I prefer changing to those oil industry based products gone out of fashion. Some people even go so far as to use expressions like "Humbrol rules"  (Hi there, Barney).

Volker

Brilliant stuff as always, Fritjof!

I weathered the rest of the crane today, and I'm not entirely happy.

The problems with the wash marks were even more visible this time, and I tried to smooth things out with pigments and remove the worst edges with a paper pencil.

But as NK writes, you have to practice! I mean, I have hardly done any serious weathering in my modelling career.

Make no mistake, think the results are passable, but with practice I should be able to do better.

What I really would like some comments on is the choice of base layer paints, the best thinner/paint for making washes and the best technique for applying the was. I suspect that my X20A/XF paints combo really is not the ideal one. A main drawback is that you can not soften the edges with straight thinner after the paint have set.

Hi Bernhard,

The window muntins are 1.0 mm wide on the underside.

Old_Storage_Shed_318 (fspg2)


Old_Storage_Shed_319 (fspg2)


Using a box engraving tool (or engraving tool), I milled the contours of the windows at a 46° angle (GS-092-0300-010-3-40).
Box engraving tool – found at: https://shop.vhf.de/articleGroups/Box-gravers-W_G_GSK.htm

Old_Storage_Shed_320 (fspg2)


To prevent the delicate tip from breaking off (as had happened once before), I worked my way through the 1.0 mm MS 58 sheet metal in 0.1 mm increments. It took significantly longer, but in the end I had all the outer window frames in hand. The edges were then carefully smoothed with a sandpaper file.