Scratchbuilt warehouse in H0

[jacq01]

  Looking at the colors, it is for sure the weather conditions outside have a large influence on the perception of the fading and intensity.
  It is important, if you want to catch the real colors, to check the situation on the layout with the planned lighting and intended viewing spot.

  Jacq

[Hauk]

Ok, its time for the ugly thumb again...
I have been working on the gutters and drainpipes lately. Boring work, but it has to be done.

The gutters are etched brass, and the downpipes are 1 mm brass rods. The fasteners for the downpipes was a real drag. They are made from flattened copper wire formed around a piece of brass rod.

Here are some pictures:

[Krusty]

The fasteners for the downpipes was a real drag.

Worth it, though. Those downpipes are very neat.

[Hydrostat]

Hauk,

this looks good to me. How thick is the flattened wire? Maybe you could give a try to self adhesive copper foil (which would not be much thinner, I'm afraid). And this makes me nervous: How do you make your macro photography ?

Volker

[Design-HSB]

Hello Hauk

Once I like your work well .

Maybe a tip for more real coloring of the downspouts .
The tubes are indeed mostly made of zinc sheet .
Therefore also have a seam that you solder through a thin copper wire , which you can easily replicate something grinded flat.
Also, you should complete the entire tube covered with a thin layer of solder.
Light rays through you erhässt then a perfect look of a zinc tube.
For us , the holders of downpipes see but also very different.
If you now anbohrst from behind the pipe through the clamp, you can solder a thin wire and you have certainly a much nicer downpipe bracket .

Examples in scale 1:22,5

Signal mast with the mast clamps case corresponds to a control tube in diameter.


Here are the clips on a road sign.


This gate is made ​​of brass and stained with solder.

But how would you make me very interested in your perfect macro shots.

[Hauk]

Hello Hauk

Once I like your work well .

Maybe a tip for more real coloring of the downspouts .
The tubes are indeed mostly made of zinc sheet .
Therefore also have a seam that you solder through a thin copper wire , which you can easily replicate something grinded flat.
Also, you should complete the entire tube covered with a thin layer of solder.
Light rays through you erhässt then a perfect look of a zinc tube.
For us , the holders of downpipes see but also very different.
If you now anbohrst from behind the pipe through the clamp, you can solder a thin wire and you have certainly a much nicer downpipe bracket .

Sorry, I should have mentioned that the downpipes are just test fitted to the building. They will be removed for painting and weathering.
The flattended copper wire is a bit thick, it should be a few thou thinner. But the upside is that it is possible to pin the finished downpipes into predrilled holes in the walls.

If this was a model in a larger scale than H0 i would probably make a more advanced bracket. But I have a certain need for speed on my H0-scale buildings, so some compromises have to be made.

But I really appreciate all input and comments!

[Hauk]

How do you make your macro photography ?

Nothing fancy regarding the photography.
I use a Canon G12, and a standard desktop lamp with an old-fashioned 60W bulb.

I hold the part in one hand, the camera in the other. I sort of fold my hands while doing this, so that a movement in the camera also moves the part. I also rest my elbows at the table.  I place the lamp as close to the part as physically possible. This gives a lightsource that is a really large one, relatively speaking.  The strong light also gives a short shutter speed, even at the smalles aperture. (wich is unfortunately no smaller than f8.0 on the G12.)
This setup gives me exposures of around 1/125 at f.8.0 (200ISO). The room lighting is far below this, so I automatically get background that are almost totally blacked out.

I really prefer handheld camera/part for extreme closeups, as it is much more flexible than with a tripod. The main challenge is avoiding shadows from the lens falling on the part.

[Hydrostat]

Thanks for the explanation, Hauk!

Volker

[Junior]

Wow, very neat pipes Hauk, the best I´ve seen in HO scale  !

Anders

[finescalerr]

An interest exchange of information. Thanks, guys. -- Russ

[chester]

My experience with downspout leader is to use a system called rack & key which is screwed, pop riveted or soldered to the back (house) side of the leader. No support is actually visible on the leader itself. Although I must say you tiny brackets are quite nice. Downspout material is typically galvanized or copper.

http://www.guttersupply.com/m-copper-drives-rackandkey.gstml

[NORCALLOGGER]

My experience with downspout leader is to use a system called rack & key which is screwed, pop riveted or soldered to the back (house) side of the leader. No support is actually visible on the leader itself. Although I must say you tiny brackets are quite nice. Downspout material is typically galvanized or copper.

http://www.guttersupply.com/m-copper-drives-rackandkey.gstml

Now that is interesting!  I have been a tinbender for over 40 years and have hung about a million miles of downspout/leaders/conductor pipes/etc and I have never even heard of the rack and key system.  That said I have to admit we don't live in an area dominated by architecturally significant buildings
Rick

[Hauk]

Some small progress.
The downpipes are all done and have also been primed since this picture:



Some door for the building:


Small steps, but we are getting there!

[Hauk]

Got a bit tired of the red walls, so i got rid of the color:

[Hauk]

Here is a flight of stairs for that door opening up on the wall:



It is hard to get things as crisp as I want to in H0, but It will have to do.