Westlake Publishing Forums

Hello gentlemen,

Marc R recently told me about this forum, and very kindly invited me to join, so here I am with some of my past project as a kind of first contact.  :)
I'm Alexandre, and have been very inspired, over the years, by Chuck and Marc work, even if I've almost zero knowledge about railroad modelling. I'm particularly interested in groundwork modelling and experimenting textures.
I'm also a great fan of Maschinen Krieger, SF3D/Ma.K franchise, and that's the kind of models I'm making when I'm not creating groundworks.

Here are some of my past projects. Some aren't finished, as I've unfortunately more fun and interest in the process than in the finished piece.
Hope you'll find this interesting and I'm really looking forward to know you more and share some experiments.

This is a 1/20 groundwork for a Maschinen Krieger suit :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fsnowman_black_1.jpg&hash=62afd62d11e1d646f3eb9ccf563b1612117e0277)

This, a 1/35 scale Burma rainforest groundwork

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fburma_10.jpg&hash=15ebc56eeefa1feea48458e739d2a03badacf499)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fburma_9.jpg&hash=ff1301f31bf28f74034f33adccd52503215e749c)

Again some groundworks and various texture experiments :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fnol_1-1.jpg&hash=7c4e162897ede44739064050c385d677774371fb)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fkrote_11.jpg&hash=c1e09616dcf6c0c49797889533252cfc1e17f210)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpripyat_1.jpg&hash=2a5d1420d21b931bc8a550636dcdabf3d570caa8)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcabane_1.jpg&hash=13ea5cbf95899d3a25fe33f1eaa155ce50f05529)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fwood_1.jpg&hash=9f18cefb84d8ea7101400582efeea6f51a333792)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fwood_2.jpg&hash=bbfc5e637e666178093420c96fb1683dcf4f6105)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fconcrete_tuto_8.jpg&hash=b1d81afa5007016eb9139cd0d7a8251fc1be1488)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fconcrete_tuto_9.jpg&hash=d536bd677020701bd86a477240952a0891d90cd3)

This is what I'm currently doing : Wood weathering experiment and a WIP scracthbuilt Japanese cherry tree, Sakura.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcerisier_3.jpg&hash=7eedbdb7c0c700b7ca5e102d1564033ccb0d05fa)

Cheers,
Alexandre.

Alexandre,    Welcome to the Forum ;D  Looking forward to seeing more of your modeling.

Quote from: Alexandre on December 09, 2012, 07:00:14 AM

. Some aren't finished, as I've unfortunately more fun and interest in the process than the finished piece.

Welcome Alexandre, I have seen and been an admirer or your work, from the above comment you will feel right at home here ........ And there is at least me, if not more who have little or no knowledge of railways.

The only problem I now have , is that seeing your groundwork , I am going to embarrass myself later on with a posting I have to make

Welcome!
Your work is very inspirational.
I hope to see some completed scenes one day.
Marty

Welcome Alexndre,

Great to have you here. Nice way to create an inferiority complex for me, by showing thise groundwork pieces. I too like Gordon have for a long time admired your work, and am glad to have you participating here.

Between the other groundwork, and the not finishing, afficionados here,  I think you fill fit in quite nicely.

Marc

Quote from: Alexandre on December 09, 2012, 07:00:14 AM
Here are some of my past projects. Some aren't finished, as I've unfortunately more fun and interest in the process than in the finished piece.

Then you will fit in just fine here, as there are several who fall into that category!   :)

Very nice work. I like the mud effects. Great weathering on those shutters, too.

Satisfactory. Welcome to the forum. I look forward to more of your work. -- Russ

Welcome ! Beautiful work! I will enjoy seeing more.

Thank you very much for making me feel very welcomed.
I already spent great times browsing incredible threads with very useful and entertaining comments.

I've spent some hours at the bench yesterday and came up with this.
This is 8cmx8cm (3.14inches).
It's better than all my previous raw bare wood attempts but still far from perfect.
And seeing Chuck last update make me reconsidering every piece of modelling of mine... :)
In a very good way of course, the way of improvement.  ;)

This have a quite "cartoonesque" look, do you feel it too? That's for a 1/20 Sci-Fi project including a child's hut, so with a bit of work it may be "good enough".
I for sure would like to have a chance to get in Europe some of the US products.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fwoodweathering.jpg&hash=4e793b9a920e260afb215e27e8692949437175ea)

Have a great day.
A.

I think it came out looking very good, and especially at that size, with such a close-up.

When shot from that close, one can see that it suffers from that typical balsa grain problem where the coloring doesn't take, very annoying (I know first hand  :) )

The critique I would have, is re. the knot holes; it appears as if you added them after the wood was "grained", thus the grain pattern runs right through them. A better option might be to put the knots in place before graining, then try to curve the graining tool/wire-brush, around them...this will give you more of the appearance of the tight wood grain that exists around knots. (hope I am making sense).

I am most curious as to what you used to do the coloring on the wood.


Marc

Sort of fiddling around with same issue , extreme example but it also highlights what appears to be common is the splits inside the knot itself. Experimenting with drilling out the cocktail stick and adding sliver of balsa so that the 2 densities of wood react differently to stains/paint 

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FWoodKnot.jpg&hash=60d6c889c8454454101eb4ef0f3d57211f4ad7a0)

Alexandre, could give us a few details of how you achieved the "winter" vegetation in the MaK base, thanks

Gordon,

Why not just lightly cut/score the end of the piece that you will be using for the knot, before pushing it in. Ithe piece is longer then the board (and wont be visible sticking through on the back)....or is sunk into a heavier timber (or piling :D)....then you could the piece about half it's length...and the remaining whole portion should hold it together long enough to set in place.

Marc

Quote from: marc_reusser on December 11, 2012, 02:32:19 AM
When shot from that close, one can see that it suffers from that typical balsa grain problem where the coloring doesn't take, very annoying (I know first hand  :) )
The critique I would have, is re. the knot holes; it appears as if you added them after the wood was "grained", thus the grain pattern runs right through them. A better option might be to put the knots in place before graining, then try to curve the graining tool/wire-brush, around them...this will give you more of the appearance of the tight wood grain that exists around knots. (hope I am making sense).

I am most curious as to what you used to do the coloring on the wood.

That totally makes sense. Plus some damages are caused by the tooth pick piece when pushing it into balsa, so that's even increasing the grain pattern just close the knot holes. I really have to improve this. Pushing the piece before the graining should be the solution.
The other thing may be to work with something else. Balsa's a troublemaker.

Coloring is pigments washed with odorless thinner, the board is flooded with water and colored with very thinned acrylics filters, with a watercolor brush, then some enamel washes. I work in a happy disorder and steps are often done twice, in no particular order, hence the quite random results in quality... ::) :)

Gordon : sure, have no WIP pictures of this one but can talk about it. Mud? Grass?

Welcome to the forum Alexandre! Have seen some of your work over at the MIG forum.

All your ground work is just stunning  :o! The latest wood coloring also look great but I agree with those who pointed out a slight problem with the wood grain around the knot holes but that´s just minor.

Anders

Cheers Anders. Thanks a lot.
Another update :
Things getting better. The grain pattern is better around the knotholes, but not as good as I wanted. I've also tried Gordon tip about knot hole split.
I'm happier with the coloring though. An older, drier and dusty piece of wood
The board is 6cm (2.36 inches)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fwood_experiment_2.jpg&hash=8a5327f10db68d484fb2c66c560e292d24fa7c40)  

Alexandre,

I like that , has a lot more subtlety and the colouring looks good to me ..... This is 1/20 scale ?

I am guessing that you are using a wire brush to emphasise the grain, it might be worth tying to either miss this step out ..... Just adding the grain with some light stokes of a scalpel blade or doing this but limiting the use of the wire brush to one or two relatively light strokes

All this from someone can't get near this look  :P

My question re the MaK groundwork was more to do with the grass, what did you use and how did you achieve the colour ?

The second piece of wood is much closer to the mark. As with Chuck's work, each board is a model in itself. Satisfactory. -- Russ

I struggle with knot grain-I used to have an Kirigami knife somewhere; it might help get a nice curve to follow the knot. I also learned add the knots after staining the board to keep them from getting too dark.

Alexandre,

Thanks for the info and new pic. I completely understand the "random" approach  ;D....

I use a drill slightly smaller in diameter than the knot, and pre-drill a hole. Makes it easier to push the knot in without deforming the wood around it.

I have also recently found that a fiberglass pencil gives a more subtle wood grain, and is easier a bit easier to steer around the knot, than a wire pencil.

Thanks a lot gentlemen for your very very useful comments.
Fiberglass pen and an origami knife are very clever ideas.

Gordon : I'm using a tamiya modeling saw. But you're right that's too rough for the scale. Using a drill still doesn't avoid board damage around the knot so I have to be more careful when doing them.
For the Ma.K groundwork, that's olvillas del mar, small egg-shaped stuff of dry grass and fibers I find on the mediterranean shores. Here it's mixed with RR modeling long grass, I can't remember the brand, as it's in a zipbag without any labels. They're airbrushed + enamel filters and washes. I may make some SBS pics, should be more clear.
 
Small update with concrete post and another board. Please let me now when you're bored of my experiments  :)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fwood_concrete_1.jpg&hash=2149a550ade045d0849feb162d144d35d162d3e6)

The concrete still needs some work.
A.

Hey Alexandre,

You are not boring us in the least.....we love experiments,...keep them coming, as long as you can tolerate us nit-picking and giving our two-cents worh of commentary. ;D

Really like the texture on the broken areas of the concrete post (have been wanting to do one of these for a while). Can you explain how you made it?

Not knowing the setting and environment that the post will be in, I do feel that it is a bit too dark in color (at least overall), if it is just going to be an old concrete post.

I shot these in Switzerland a while back for reference, if they are of any interest/use:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages15.fotki.com%2Fv230%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934747%2FP7250042-vi.jpg&hash=ca139e203bcf08b54e9e0fb7dffb619ec2539b68)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages56.fotki.com%2Fv701%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934747%2FP7250044-vi.jpg&hash=32dac037109d123873531ad3331002aba03dfeb7)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages56.fotki.com%2Fv1602%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934747%2FP7250045-vi.jpg&hash=b331d09dfc38e101ca7f7a7016997993b0280cdc)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1513%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934747%2FP7250050-vi.jpg&hash=52a7fa2725c032c726c501e0212e8977e556ce4f)


Marc

Real life "overscaled" wood graining  ;D ;D ;D

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages18.fotki.com%2Fv60%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934747%2FDSCN5498-vi.jpg&hash=d0f20b3cc82da32afbfe5408fd3a07197e886f8a)

beautiful detail
kind regards kim

I'm with Marc, keep 'em coming, I like to see what you're up to.

Thanks a lot!
Marc, perfect reference pictures. I was more on the concrete texture and moss on this one, but yes, the color is no good.
This post is made of cork, textured with gesso. Damage is simply made like that. Easy way!  :)

I've played a bit with the brick molds from Diorama debris that just arrived home.
I've used cheap plaster of PAris, the one that I had ready at home, but the result is embarrassing.
I've cast em white, the coloring is done after, once dry. Colors are OK although far from perfect, but my plaster skills are 0.
3 batches, and only 6 or 7 usable bricks. My mix and pouring was full of air bubbles. Sometimes too thick, the other too thinned. Really need to practice on that.
But these molds are great! There's a new batch drying this time pre-colored with pigments.

I've also tried something I've not seen so often, wet bare wood that has been stored outside for few month only. It turns yellow-green-gray.
Well, there again, need improvement. For now it's still too yellow / too balsa.

I'm having way too much fun with this.  :) It could be time to think of a scene instead of toying with bits. That's nonetheless rewarding to see improvements while trying this or that. I think I've learned more in weathering this past week reading the forum, and experimenting, than in the past year of modelling.  :D

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fwood_brick_1_zps05575fb6.jpg&hash=e15a0e610d708487b369e94cd73616c132409644)

Cheers,
Alexandre.

That beam looks pretty good to me Alexandre ..... think in some cases the green tinge you get comes from a wood preservative that is applied to wood that is to be used externally.

Keep up the experimentation , we are all learning ........ filed the use of cork for concrete away  ;)

Have you looked at Diorama Debris web site  www.dioramadebris.co.uk under  "tips & guides" their mix ratios I have found pretty accurate ..... for the small quantities we are talking about its worth while investing in some digital scales 

Your new experiments are as usual looking just great! I like the concrete post as is....it could be very damp or just very dark from pollution etc. I have seen them look like that. The wooden beam looks great too!

Anders

Well it is good to hear you're having fun. Your results are quite impressive.

Alexandre,

   Welcome to the Forum . I can see that you are going to make a valuable contribution to what goes on here .

  I have looked at your last photo and there is nothing there that is not believable .I don't have a problem with the colour  or quality of your bricks as they could easily fit into " The Real World " , and your wood all looks fine . The piece you have on the angle looks just like aged oak , and I could prove it as I have  piles of it dotted around the estate ,

  Nick

I think the "slightly aged" plank looks great! Looks very much like real boards I have seen.

Alexandre, if you would be willing to describe your techniques step-by-step, your experiments would make a very good modeling article. -- Russ

Just catching up with this one ! but first "Welcome" and thanks for posting the Photos of some of your work -very interesting and some lovely techniques
looking forward to more - just keep it coming
Barney

Hello gentlemen and happy new year. Thanks a lot for your always useful feedback!
Russ, I'm always open for writing articles  :)

I've been a bit slow on modelling due to end of year and Xmas period, but I've not been totally inactive.
I know this is probably not your area of interest but since it's about painting and weathering :

Here my last work on a Maschinen Krieger armored suit, called AFS Polar Bear.
Making mud and earth effect have always been one of my favorite part of weathering.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpolarbear_6_zps617fa243.jpg&hash=57de4420e1f553f0601776188e7594838ea3117f)

Alex.

I like that Alex,

has the subtlety and lightness of touch in the colouring and weathering that seems to allude me most of the time ......... Almost tempts me to dig out the couple of "polar bears" I have stashed away, but made my New Years resolution so lets get the 1st of January out of the way first ;D

I agree with gordon, the subtlety is great, and I am really taken by the lighting effect, and the coloring of the suit. No matter how often I look at this, I can't figure out how you achieved that.

The mud coloring and transitions are perfect...but if I am really looking hard to find something to pick on...or be dritical of  ;D (and only because of the magnification of the image)...it is the equal size of of the grains of mud/dirt. Looks like you may have used/added some fine sand with grains of equal/similar size.

Good God Marc,

I know I still bear the scars of the "tapered roots" and I hold grudges ;D but now you are picking on the size of grains of sand used!

Take bit less water with that drink and chill ;)

I like the way blades of grass stick to the bottom of the shoe. -- Russ

I like it!
I like all the subtle effects and especially the "dynamic" pose.
-marty

I like the slight metallic sheen showing through the grime.

Thanks a lot gentlemen!
Hehe Marc your comment went really far in groundwork rivet counting (? ::)) but I like that a lot. And you're right BTW. The next step is the final layer of mud splatters, this time with grass and plaster, it should add enough variation in the grain texture.  :)
You've got the better eye I've seen for noticing this kind of things.
:)

BTW, concerning the finish, here's the WIP pictures :

Black primer :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpolarbear_1.jpg&hash=ac98b4875a8dd3c89fb937ce643fa86759ef3581)

Hand painting with acrylics, in order to get the "sketchy" "watercolor" look of the boxart painted by the Master Kow Yokoyama.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpolarbear_3.jpg&hash=f7e1326f2d45f5f7d5bb481a308f4efa735bea79)

Whitewash with AK chipping fluid and Tamiya XF white.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpolarbear_4.jpg&hash=a99f4f2fffea0de1c8a8229eac46b8bb4efacf34)

Enhanced White with oil colors.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpolarbear_5.jpg&hash=657bb656be4e6b9fc3c75ea7de2ae3443ba0e3a4)

:)

Hi gents,

I'm trying to write an article out of this new AFV build, so can't post all the pictures, but here some test about replicating tires texture.
These are painted styrene. Of course there's no dirt, dust, mud on them so far, but the challenge for me was to match the texture and coloring of clean although used tires.
This is for an early 30's armored car used in urban Police service, so it was important for me not to load too much dirt/mud on the tires and get an appropriate look because later viewable.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fvickers_5_prev_zps31df5b79.jpg&hash=23751e61508bc211e24d2dce23e3c16ef25c9cfe)
 
A.
:)

Look pretty good to me - visually attractive pieces. If you insist on some criticism? You've managed to pick up a "shine" on the edges and corners of the tyres - I suspect it's where you've worked on them.
Unfortunately I don't think it's an effect you'd see unless the tyres were perished and hardened with age!! I'm thinking a completely Matt look would serve you better?

Just a thought...............

Ouch, long time without updating this post.
I had little time to experiment on my small pieces of junk these days. Hopefully by the hand of April I'll have time again to work on some diorama.
I've not been totally inactive though and here are two models I'm working on.

This Jagdpanther is 1/48 scale, and it's a test piece to practice on mud effects.
Here I've used 3 shades of AK pigments, with pigment fixer, as a first layer.
A second layer with AK earth effect solution mixed with microballoons for another grain and another texture.
A third layer with AK dark mud mixed with microballoons.
And a final layer with various pinwashes of AK earth effect, AK dark mud, AK damp earth, and AK africa dust.

Layering is really the key of mud effects.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fjagdpanther_preview_13_zpscdb47dd7.jpg&hash=8fb3dabd0530f6392295bac8efa1fff003103984) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/jagdpanther_preview_13_zpscdb47dd7.jpg.html)


This one is a SF garage kit from the french designer and artist Walter Pezzali. He owns a range called "Futuristic modelkits" and produces some funny and cool 50's-60's retro future robots, very atomic age.
I'm doing this one for an article about mud.
So far, I'm here, with a winter whitewash done using AK worn effect and Tamiya flat white.
Some filters, pin washes, and I'm reworking some area with white oil paint, to give more depth and brightness with pure white.

Chipping is brush and sponge, with acrylic paint. the rust spots and dots are realized with oil W&N paint.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_microchipping_zps718ee100.jpg&hash=5f754ea02659e185c422dcd14674efbc98cd12de) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_microchipping_zps718ee100.jpg.html)

Hope it wasn't too long and boring.
Have a great day gentlemen artists!
:)

Alexandre.

Not too long and anything but boring! That tank looks terrific. Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Very nice! I especially like the effects on the robot.

Hi!

Thank you guys.
:)

I've got very interesting points about mud and grass blades by Marc on FB. Once it has been scanned by his eyes, it appears obvious : too much uniformity in the grass, in color, shape and length.
Now I have to rework this, that means more variety and different materials.
But from now I don't have time for this one, and spent some hours on the robot.

Same process than for the other part. A basic used whitewashed done with AK worn effect and Tamiya White, airbrushed, and thinned with the regular acrylic thinner.
Then after some enamel based filters, I've contrasted some areas by using a 00 brush and sponge, to realize pure white chips.
Third step for the white color, some streaks and discoloration using Windsor & Newton white oil paint.

Chipping (with sponge and brush) and some pin washes later, we're here :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fwhitewash_1_zpsd63857b3.jpg&hash=37e0c8dc7363ababa7afde499355d8b114773bfb) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/whitewash_1_zpsd63857b3.jpg.html)

:)

Hello gentlemen!  :)

A really quick update on groundwork as I'm quite late with the deadline.
This is a iPhone test-picture for the robot (seen a post above).
Bic lighters come in 2 size in France (maybe everywhere else too) and this is the small one. Scale is 1/20.

Grass : made from olvillas del mar (sea eggs) and stained with enamels washes.
Moss : unknown brand / label-less pack bought in a model show to years ago. This is synthetic moss similar to many RR greenish powders. It's glued with white glue and stained with AKinteractive slime green and dark slime green. (enamel based washes)

Dead leaves and forest scatter is a home-made mix. Different real leaves ground in very small particles and mixed with some grass and roots and junk.

As a side note : In my opinion, nothing worse than the "in-scale" paper leaves one can buy in some brands (most used are plus models ones). They are really expensive, almost always out of scale, look all the same and way too stiff to be convincing. Rotten leaves take various shades and the roting process make them look all different. Some brown, some black or red, some folded etc...
I've tried many of these in scale, PE or paper punch and die leaves set, and the best result I had is with real world leaves.
Talking about resolution or detail definition, I'm most of the time happier with a "global" convincing look than with a junk of details put side by side.
Just like Impressionism in fine art, I find the global feeling of colors, texture and detail more convincing and realistic than super-detailed stuff alone in the scene.
Don't know if that makes so much sense as my english isn't at its best today.   :-\

Anyway, picture :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2F525415_10151340696605938_1857091485_n_zps692691f1.jpg&hash=6f497c073287f4cacbde07fe4cb7329d11e0dcfb) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/525415_10151340696605938_1857091485_n_zps692691f1.jpg.html)

PS : bricks are from Diorama Debris, the rusted spring is metal, painted with AK rust set acrylics, while the rusted circle piece is evergreen styrene painted with AK rust set.

Well as you know, I think this is just beautiful. Great coloring, attention and type of detail, and placement. 

I completely agree with you on the manufactured leaves....one or two in a scene if done right, and mixed with natural "leaves" and litter is can bee good...but most often they are way overused and poorly done.

Thanks for posting the SBS/resources.

That is impressive , just a lovely little vignette which could easily stand on its own without any additions

Looks great, but that oversized Bic lighter could use some weathering.   ;)

Thank you very much guys! :)
Still experimenting on this base and with the phone camera that doesn't give all the colors rendering and focus needed.
I'm sunk in the mud for 3 days. And still a lot to do in contrasts and tonal variations.
But nothing too bad, as I'm lucky enough to have found a coin while walking in the forest.  :D ;D

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2F529320_10151342629050938_853698306_n_zps829aafe6.jpg&hash=df4607be222ca62c876f9a6ee1a85ba1741c7293) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/529320_10151342629050938_853698306_n_zps829aafe6.jpg.html)

Very nice coloring. Really like your leaf litter. I think I also have a bag of that nice brown/tan grass product...I quite like it.

So, I am assuming this will be published in two parts; Mud in the next/coming issue, and Vegetation in the following one? (If not it definitely should be, and you might want to drop Rick a note.  :) )


Marc

Thank you Marc!

Another one is planned for the vegetation issue. Pripyat-style. (And the pictures you sent me last time will prove very useful)

Ah, a Pripyat piece.....very cool. So glad to see you getting back on one. Really look forward to that.

"Pripyat" !

Now I have some idea how Marc feels ;)

Got one from there on the go myself

That is some nice mud and grass Alexandre! The leaves are great too.

Add my positive comments to the above. -- Russ

Quote from: gfadvance on April 22, 2013, 08:04:16 AM

Now I have some idea how Marc feels ;)

Hallelujah!!!!!   :P ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

M

Thank you very much Marc, Gordon, Russ and Chuck!

:)

Here's a better picture with a real camera.
That's still in progress but I feel I'm close to en happy end with this one.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fmud_prev_zpsfb0c6fd9.jpg&hash=b50f363897632cbb246fdff0b817d2350d8d0340) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/mud_prev_zpsfb0c6fd9.jpg.html)

Have a great day!  :)

Oh, stop already!...you're just stressing me out. ;) ;D ;D

I've seen worse. Satisfactory. -- Russ

Thats some damn fine mud!
never thought I'd say that, much less write it!
I hope I can learn about all these techniques and materials someday.
Marty

Thanks friends.

Calling it done, and that's the last preview, too.
Here's a 5x5cm detail of the scene. The whole vignette is 15x17cm.

Full article about the making of this groundwork in the next TWM issue hopefully.

Thanks for the advice and help gentlemen, and for the entertaining and very useful posts I enjoy everyday on the forum.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_1_zps31476148.jpg&hash=2599ef5c42a0078fbc8dda29b36052e7d8804570) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_1_zps31476148.jpg.html)

Wow!

Oh yes, that's looking very, very good. I especially love the color of the smooth mud on the bottom of the puddle.

Peter

Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Very nice!

Quote from: Chuck Doan on April 25, 2013, 10:25:02 AM
Wow!

I feel as happy with this quote than with a gold medal in a model show. Thanks you very much Chuck, very appreciated.

Thank you guys. Happy you like it. I wish I could post more though.
I'll do a small arid scene next (Australian Ouback), with some clutters here and there, in 1/20 scale.  :) It'll be the chance to experiment again with wood boards weathering, some rust and details, plus some dust and sand.

I am sure I and a few others can understand your feelings over "wow" .......... But it very well deserved a quite brilliant bit of modelling.

Wow!  You are the King of Mud!  ;D  But seriously ... that is some truly amazing and inspiring groundwork.  -- Dallas

I hate it when I drool into my keyboard..... ;D
Superior finish with that ground work for sure.

Cheers,
Dan

Hi,  :)

Got time again for some small test pieces.
I've been toying with wood this week. Figure for scale, it's 1/20.

I now have to add all the details, nails and wood texture etc.
Not so convinced so far. Plus it seems I've lost my "wood" mojo since I've been mostly painting plastic and groundwork for the last months.
:-\

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Ffurn_test_zps271a3b1c.jpg&hash=541477ba4f63cc294ed0d09465e34d97b1a5a958) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/furn_test_zps271a3b1c.jpg.html)

Oh, and as there's a thread about how to organize all the workbench stuff.
That's how I do :

Positive aspects : none
Negative aspects : unlimited, including losing every piece you need, and having a 15cm2 free area to work.  :D

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fworkbench_zps2200ca05.jpg&hash=24b3527550799bbb5360c91375b4b0d2b8fe045b) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/workbench_zps2200ca05.jpg.html)

About that bottom photo: Somehow Alexandre has taken a picture of my mind -- and I thought I'd already lost it!!! -- Russ

Hello gentlemen.

Well, I wasn't about to show this stuff on the forum, but the recent talks and comments about the forum members and lurkers, as well as Russ's post about subscriptions, push me to share this here.
Just few words before showing the pictures.
This is a Maschinen Krieger model, and as with any other Sci-Fi genre it has is own aesthetic. A sketchy, raw, grungy one. Initiated by the creator of the serie Yokoyama-san and the way he's painting his own models and the box arts.
Since I'm interested in this genre some years ago, I've tried to get this look models after models. This look can be surprising for the modelers used to super clean finishes, and if I would certainly not use it for any military or historical subject, I love this way of handpainting my Ma.K models. This is a very free, quick, raw technic where you're only pushed by your hand and your brush, and that's a great amount of fun when you're used to do complex, layered, hairspray, airbrushed super long painting finish. Very relaxing.

Well, that being said, I've also an AFV modeler background and I like to implement some of the finishes one can see in the military model world.
So I'm really trying to paint my Ma.K models mixing these both worlds.

The genuine look is maybe 50% due to the paint used. Lacquers. They're reacting in a very special way when handbrushed and each layer of paint kind of reactivating the past one.
As they're hard to find in Europe, and as I don't feel very comfortable with them, I've tried to develop a similar technic using acrylics, where the layering transparency is the key effect, since water based acrylics don't react with previous layers as Lacquers do.

I'm always priming these models Black. And with a wet on wet process, I'm building the color variation and sketchy/watercolor look with extremely diluted layers of paint.
The black is important cause it's giving perfect control over the color build up, and also help creating artificial lights and shadows. Basically, the darker parts of the model don't receive as much paint as the lighter one.
As I also wanted some of the AFV texture and look, I've done classic Hairspray chipping on the pink part of the camo pattern, using AK worn effect.
I've reworked the top part of the Pink with the sketchy look until having an interesting gradient from pale flesh to orange pink.
You can also see the global gradient on some parts of the model, such as the big frontal armor plate, where we're from grey to tan. Not really using it as with the modulation technic but more to have this watercolor feeling I like.

Once all that's done, I'm coating by hand (always by hand) the whole with Future/Klear/Clear/Klir to protect of course and also trying to reach the lacquers look. Lacquers paint are really bright, vivid and glossy out of the jar so it's a nice way to replicate this. I've also noticed that coating varnish by hand doesn't kill the chromatic variation and textures as a varnish can always do.

Weathering is just started heren with a few washes from AK, but you already have an interesting and busy canvas for further effects.

Sorry for the long words, hope it wasn't too much boring and it can give you some ideas on your own work.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_1_zpseaacb855.jpg&hash=5c6e99076497e4d753511d6eacec4af396203ae4) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_1_zpseaacb855.jpg.html)

PS : this strange camo scheme is motivated by the diorama located in Outback desert, Australia. And even more because it's tons of fun to go outside Olive Drab or DunkelGelb with a touch of Pink.  
 

Umm...your crates and pallets are kinda helping with my "wood" mojo...

Who makes that figure?

Tom

Thanks Tom.

Quote from: Tom Neeson on May 22, 2013, 04:38:00 PM
Who makes that figure?
Tom

This one is the PKA '(PanzerKampfAnzug)' ausf. H1 Heinrich. It's a long OOP model from Nitto. The brand doesn't exist anymore. 
But other Ma.K models and armored suits can be found in Wave (Japan import only) and Hasegawa range.
It's 1/20 scale.

Alexandre,

Thanks for taking the time and trouble to post this information , it always of interest to me to read about other people's experiments ......... Goes a long way to cut down some of the learning curve for the rest of us.

It is good to see an alternative to the "traditional" laquer approach for finishing these pieces, read a lot about the laquer finishes and always admired them but,like you,me and laquer really don't get on ....... either from an application or a breathing perspective! .......  and that is ignoring the difficulty of getting hold of them .

Sorry for my lack of understanding here, are you really applying these "wet on wet" do not the the colours mix ?
Or are you applying them like thin glazes, letting each coat dry and then applying the next glaze?

Out of interest have you tried tinting the Klear with acrylic colour and building up the layers that way?

However you are doing it, it's turning out well ..... The Sci-Fi version of the pink camouflage used on the SAS land rovers.

Hope to see and hear more

Nice work. -- Russ

Thank you Gordon & Russ.

Gordon : I wasn't really clear on this one.
I'm applying a layer of paint. Once dry, I wet the surface with water first and then applying the new layer on the wet surface. The layers don't react together, but the surface is wet for the new coat of paint giving a better canvas for gradient and color variation.
Wet on wet, not the good term but I miss a better one.

Really wonderful effect on that suit. I think it brings across Kow's look and drawings perfectly. I also like your choice of colors. Beautifully done all around.

Interesting approch.....with acrylics....I would have figured artist oils would be more condusive to creating this effect, as they remain workable longer, and can be mixed on the pallete for a wider variation of shades....but you have disproven this.

Thank for posting this.

Now, when you get your nose back out of your new book...how about a black lunar soil SBS. ;) As I told JBA, I think I may have a need for it. :D

mmmh, you mean like this kind right? Iwo Jima volcanic sands.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fneuspotter_final_1_zps3dc4b6e7.jpg&hash=fbdcdc68bb376cb7ca8fd26f80aea86ec4a8d5e4) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/neuspotter_final_1_zps3dc4b6e7.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fneuspotter_final_2_zps144a1119.jpg&hash=c66eaefd5d5e993e206c2cec32b2d71c82ad88b1) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/neuspotter_final_2_zps144a1119.jpg.html)

Or this one

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Farchelon_final_3_zps3c7aba28.jpg&hash=77f14e5b566c90b95b8be52d23da1f7c26f47d31) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/archelon_final_3_zps3c7aba28.jpg.html)

Because I also have a real lunar one, in progress unpainted.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fscience_1_zps6c82228e.jpg&hash=b6f414dec7ad747f529e863c6ac15e9b05f067df) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/science_1_zps6c82228e.jpg.html)

PS Marc : Thanks for the nice words.
BTW : I won't really read this Le Corbusier 10Kg book. It's just to look nice on the coffee table. Too bad it's bigger than my coffee table.  ;D

Yes the volcanic sands please....both of them. ;D

Ah, I know these kind of books a little too well.  :)

Ok Marc will do. Don't have much great pictures in progress so I'll probably do another one for a SBS.
Back to more conventional modelling with one of my favorite step of weathering, the engine grime.
I really want to believe than future mechanics will be very clumsy and dirty.

Many layers, featuring
AK Engine Grime
AK Dark Brown wash
AK Black Pigments
AK Dark Steel Pigments
AK Engine Oil
Tamiya Accent Panel Black
Tamiya Smoke
Tamiya Oil Stain

All these products can be mixed together, can be thinned with White Spirit and are worked whith many layers in no particular order. Very free and clumsy way.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_2_zps528f95ce.jpg&hash=d37c4d1df4fb4955c82f51f4003e89e5fc78d3dd) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_2_zps528f95ce.jpg.html)

Very interesting!

Thank you very much Ray  :)

Made some progress on this :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_3_zpsbe41fca6.jpg&hash=b51b69fbaeb3a3645660991e87cc341cdf9a7e1e) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_3_zpsbe41fca6.jpg.html)

Alex.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on May 23, 2013, 08:28:35 PM
Very interesting!

... I'm following with interest too ... still dabbling with the idea to build a Ma.k kit myself ... some day ... ::) ...

And thanks for the additional information about the stuff you used - very much appreciated!

Cheers

Cheers Gerald.

Picture of the closed suit.
There's quite a lot of work in the tonal variations of Pink/Orange on the hatch, but somewhere killed by the lighting of the photo studio and it's not so much visible here.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_4_zpsb961ecf4.jpg&hash=9d0467cde9267a02a7096562263639ffda9ca0a8) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_4_zpsb961ecf4.jpg.html)

Alexandre, great work! I love the groundwork rendering, textures, etc ... ;)

Franck

Your photos have shown us three dimensional art. Your canvas is a strange little science fiction model but the artistry you have displayed to bring it to life is wonderful. -- Russ

Thank you Franck and Russ.
I'm happy that you could find something of interest in this.
I'm a hard believer of the "crossing the genre" idea. I've learnt so much watching SBS and articles of things that on the other hand I would never model. What I like in this painting technic is that in the end, we (at least I) don't see so much the raw initial painting. it just supplies an interesting base for the weathering, but add something subtle in the finish.

I've zero knowledge on RR modelling, but reading some comments here I feel you guys are sometimes quite rude with your own genre.
Coming from the AFV/military modelling, I really think many (well, members here as I don't know any other places about RR) have understood things that AFV modeler are ignoring most of the time. Maybe it's the quality of this board though, but I think you guys are 10 years in the future regarding some modelling features, such as diorama composition, scratch building, and atmosphere rendering.

The next update will be about something of a wider interest as it'll be about architecture. Soviet 70's architecture precisely.   

A.

So, new serie of updates about one of the other project I have to do for mid-July.

This is some of the elements of the concrete structure I'll do. Nothing is glued together yet cause there will be other items added to the structure.
This is Cork, Cardboard, Wood, Evergreen styrene, and gesso.
The whole just got a quick grey acrylic primer hand brushed to check the texture, and some details painting with acrylics, but it's a long way before the basic painting is done.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2F1_zpscdcf1c65.jpg&hash=3dec5b767fcfe9ef823e3a038e98b5cbe72625c2) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/1_zpscdcf1c65.jpg.html)

The project is quite challenging, because it'll have to give the feeling of "cosmic" and "huge" soviet-style 50-80's architecture, but in a very limited scene of 10x15cm, without too much height. Wir Werden Sehen.  :-\

 

Alexandre, this is looking really, really nice. The "flagstone" effect, is this carved by you or is this the actual surface of the cork? I would love to see a common item in one of your pics so we could know the actual size of what you are making. Please?  ;)

Chris

Quote from: compressor man on May 27, 2013, 08:44:32 AM
The "flagstone" effect, is this carved by you or is this the actual surface of the cork? I would love to see a common item in one of your pics so we could know the actual size of what you are making. Please?  ;)

Chris

Thanks Chris. Aaah, flagstone, so this is how it's called. Thanks for that. This is not carved nor the surface of the cork.
This is made bits by bits. Each stone is shaped, sanded, textured and glued individually. For a scale idea, the flagstone piece is 7cmx5cm.

If my finished work looked as good as your unfinished work I would be satisfied! -- Russ

I agree with that ! Just fantastic stuff
Barney

Manifique! Cést un Plonge.

So what what are the individual flagstone pieces made of?



Marc

Thank you friends.

Quote from: marc_reusser on May 27, 2013, 12:23:18 PM
So what what are the individual flagstone pieces made of?
Marc

Hey, it IS cork. + modelling paste. I meant the pattern wasn't carved or from the cork texture.
:)

Ah. Got it. Thanks.

And it's done. Thanks for following the WIP on this pretty OT build.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Ffinal_1_zps6ae3dd5d.jpg&hash=7d35389dce73d8e4c2caf9892c8fa946e58ecfd9) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/final_1_zps6ae3dd5d.jpg.html)

Back to concrete now... :)

Quote from: finescalerr on May 27, 2013, 10:37:40 AM
If my finished work looked as good as your unfinished work I would be satisfied! -- Russ

In my new & dedicated effort to become one of the hundreds of ignorant, lethargic copycats whom Russ detests ... I'd like to add a hardy "Me too!"  ;D  -- Dallas

Me, too.

(I hope I'm neither ignorant nor lethargic.)

Russ

Got no real knowledge of this stuff Alexandre, but it certainly looks "right"!

The amount of texture and tints you have achieved on the surface makes me want to have ago myself but had better not , there are a couple of square inches empty on the bench but must resist another scale.

Should say that what I like best is the impression of solidity and weight , the combination of your paint effects and some neat photography has made a very impressive piece.

The only thing that is bugging me, and it's only because of the amount of magnification, is that stencil decal under the Ace of spades ...... It looks like a decal !
Very picky I know ....... So sorry in advance

Nice!
It sure looks convincing. Looking forward to see it on a base.

I echo everything Gordon says. (I can't believe I am saying that  ???  :-X )

I hope you publish an SBS on this painting approach, as the results are fantastic, and I really would like to try it.

The one thing I would nit-pik about is the ribbed rubber on the arms. I dont know if this is an oversight, or done because you wanted to create high-lights , but I would think that there would be more dust/dirt, in the grooves/recesses, and less on the high points (as the high-points also rub against the suit and surrounding objects)....I know when trying to do lighting effects this kind of stuff is always a struggle, as what is needed for lighting effects often is in direct conflict with what is needed for weathering.

Marc

I love it!
"My" only nitpick (i think the rubber arms are spot on) would be
how new and unweathered the spade decals are.
Fun build and some new tricks i want to try!
Mj

Nice!

Has kind of a "Humpty Dumpty From Mars" look to it.   :)

Thank you guys for your feedback.
I agree with what has been said :
The decals definitely needs some weathering. I've preserved them as I saw them as a clean place to rest the eye from the busy and textured finish of the suit. But seeing it again today, I too think it's too clean, maybe some scratches and a filter over to fade the colors would work.

Rubbers joint covers : It's always the weak point of all my builds. I always do them last, and always rush them. They're made from vinyl and it's a nightmare to paint. Paint don't react at all on this like you would expect. No matter how many primer coats you're spraying. I should rework them too, the better solution would be to sculpt them with putty (it would permit a more natural pose too) BUT I'm really bad at sculpting them.

New update :
The last suit is to be paired on a diorama with a previous build I've done last year. So for some time, I'm restoring the old walker who's been catching dust for a year on the shelves. I'm currently refining the engine area painting details.
It's a lot of oil, it's a lot of grease, it's a lot of grime, it's a lot of carbon, it's DIESELPORN! ®  ;D

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_1_zps0019df9e.jpg&hash=a69bb741cf47ff4ee1fd19bb03614203d264521b) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_1_zps0019df9e.jpg.html)

It looks even better close up. But I'm always a sucker for dieselporn. -- Russ

Here's more for you Russ  ;D

Usual Recipe, various AK dark and glossy washes, black pigment, Tamiya Smoke and oil stain. I've also started some chipping on the foot. AKinteractive acrylic rust set, and dark brown oil paint from W&N.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_3_zps9f4b5635.jpg&hash=aabcd1fbd1ae6c5683909f74564eb156522b1ebb) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_3_zps9f4b5635.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_2_zps1579ad46.jpg&hash=07908b4b224117ed45e55afa5465700904ffd809) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_2_zps1579ad46.jpg.html)

Is there a way to show bigger Jpg pictures? The quality difference between the resizing of the forum (or image hosting service) and the one I've local is annoying.

The issue of image size always has been an annoying part of posting. The software we use wants smaller images but, a few years ago, my website guy allowed bigger ones. We have settled on the current limitations as an acceptable compromise but it really is a chore to reduce a hi-res image to the proper size. Nothing is perfect.

Except some models we see here.

Russ

Thanks and No worries Russ.

To follow with my previous concrete experiment. Painting in progress. Geometric, abstract Bas-reliefs are famous ornamental elements of post-war soviet architecture. They're often found in youth, sports, health or official buildings. Here, I've created this one, inspired by various bas-relief example about water rhythm.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_2_zpsbadf8106.jpg&hash=3e2bfeb7cecce9781e059b9024f877a8682cee01) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_2_zpsbadf8106.jpg.html)

I'd love to hear what you think.

Oh stop showing off Alexandre, the colour of the concrete is good enough but now you are adding sculpture to the mix !

As for the producing the letters in Cyrillic script ...... No wonder you were travelling all alone in that tram  ;D

One thing is certain I will be missing that print deadline in July , know when I am beaten


Keep up the great work  ;)

Not bad. -- Russ

Quote from: gfadvance on June 03, 2013, 10:25:29 AM
One thing is certain I will be missing that print deadline in July , know when I am beaten

You have to do this thing. There's many days left and you said you will do this. You have the skills, you have the idea, you have time, and you have the work started, so go back to work.

QuoteYou have to do this thing. There's many days left and you said you will do this. You have the skills, you have the idea, you have time, and you have the work started, so go back to work.

Yeah Gordon stop makin' feeble excuses.... an' get back to work :P

Looks neat Alexandre

Michael

Impressive!
How big is it?
Can you tell us how you did it?
-Marty

WTH!?....WOW!...superb rendition of this type of architectural element.

I too would be interested in how you went about this. I am guessing that the letters are from Plastruct, sanded flatter, cut and reversed where needed; then coated with thin modeling paste/medium or a Vallejo product?

Gordon,
I definitely feel youneed to cut the excuses and get on with it......unlike with Russ where the thong clad bikini girls just wont show, when you mis a deadline,....I believe if you miss this deadline two large, hairy and sweaty, knuckle-dragging blokes show up at your door, asking if you would like to be buggered.   ;D ;D

Well Well Well Marc Sherlock Holmes Reusser, that is EXACTLY how I did the lettering. Except these are Slaters letters.
The bas-relief, simply designed with sculpting tools on foam carboard and textured. I don't know how it translates in English. You know this light cardboard with a paper layer on each side and foam inside. The more difficult is to get a realistic pattern. Fortunately I have a perverse interest for Soviet architecture so I have plenty of examples in my books. So for once these damn books have been useful for something else than laying on my coffee table, quietly helping me looking smart when ladies are visiting  :)

Marty, this is 9x6cm.

Quote from: marc_reusser on June 03, 2013, 01:44:42 PM

Gordon,
....I believe if you miss this deadline two large, hairy and sweaty, knuckle-dragging blokes show up at your door, asking if you would like to be buggered.   ;D ;D

  That's no way to talk about Me "n" Barney .

  Just remember , we've got relatives in California , who will do anything for twenty bucks !


    Nick

 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Michael

PS I just watched "Thunderdome" again

Alexandre, the material you described sounds like what we call "foam core" in the U.S. -- Russ

P.S.: Nick, go stand in the corner.

Quote from: shropshire lad on June 03, 2013, 02:19:59 PM

  That's no way to talk about Me "n" Barney .

  Just remember , we've got relatives in California , who will do anything for twenty bucks !


    Nick

I guess I'll need to keep an eye out for a couple of pastey Pikeys, in a run-down caravan.  ;D ;D :P

Hi gents,

Sorry for the rushed pictures, but I don't have time and the energy to set up the photo studio.
Just to keep you posted with all the previous concrete experiments, here's a small collage of iphone pictures, showing where things are going and the general layout.
Of course nothing painted yet, raw materials, and still some more building work and details to do before actually starting to paint.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpripyat_prev_2_zpsb56c9f96.jpg&hash=b256765094416bfec85a72a2fb9d6d13bb3900a4) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/pripyat_prev_2_zpsb56c9f96.jpg.html)

Cheers. 

Oo, very nice!

Still experimenting my concrete painting...Here the last piece.
Of course, basic painting, needs all the colors variations and weathering.

EDIT : Better picture close up. Each section is 3cm wide.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_4_zpsa3cd5af0.jpg&hash=0726e4e58c79da651ceb53c7cef7e23d4c071ae2) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_4_zpsa3cd5af0.jpg.html)

Post edited with better picture.  :)

The first picture didn't make much sense to me. This new one suggests you are headed in a good direction. -- Russ

To be honest I don't think any of my project really make any sense... :) ;D
But I'm OK with that...

Alex,  I am a bit confused...what are you trying to represent? Painted concrete with the paint peeling, blistering off?

Exactly.
It's an experiment in progress using Crackle Tim Holtz paint differently. To try to combine both Hairspray rendering AND crackle paint rendering in one step. I didn't wrote much about that as it still the first tries, and these tries are now buried under another grey raw concrete texture.

EDIT : the big ugly flaked paint in the top section is of course an accident. It's no final product, only test pieces so I wasn't concerned so much about fixing it.

I understand they're just experiments ;D....just wanted to make sure of what I was looking at. It does have the thickness, surface finish and look of old thick institutional paint that has aged poorly.......but something is bothering me, and I cant seem to put my finger on it.

I want to say that it should have multiple layers or edges on the flages, or flake layers/areas of different shades or color of the paint. One would assume that this concrete would have been painted over several times in it's history/existence.........so maybe this needs to be represented.  Also wondering if the pattern is too overall.......would all the areas weather like this, or only areas exposed to certain elements...or lack of elements.......like I said...it's recognizeable for what you are wanting, but something is lacking...and I can't say what. Sorry. Maybe its just the lack of context.

Agreed with all your points Marc.
:)

Quick update on this project, with proper picture this time.
Don't pay attention to the strange gravels and earth shape, it fits the main vertical structure's shape that I'm working apart for ease of handling.

Earth texture done with various grained sands and micro balloons, and fixed with AK gravel and sand fixer.
I always prime these effects to see where I need to add or subtract texture, here with AK grey primer and their acrylic thinner.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprimer_grey_gravel_prev_rick_zpsab2d404a.jpg&hash=7213a4a7c45c34ee7a2c84303082a03a18d1b5bd) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/primer_grey_gravel_prev_rick_zpsab2d404a.jpg.html)

Some more details and debris to be added, then on to painting... :)

Definitive layout.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_fb_5_zps9cd7621b.jpg&hash=5911dc78c532872f79a48aa69dc87b0fc1624184) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_fb_5_zps9cd7621b.jpg.html)

Pleasing. -- Russ

Hi friends.

Some work has been done.
Now that almost all the "dead" stuff has been done, It's time to work on the "green" thingies.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_leaves_zpscdf92676.jpg&hash=a64d06222efdffdf1462f424c18d59d0116e6f4b) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_leaves_zpscdf92676.jpg.html)

And some of the other future details of the vignette :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Frusted_sign_prev_zps7769c99b.jpg&hash=06755663a60ceb2688aa1b10c51f086a34489c5f) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/rusted_sign_prev_zps7769c99b.jpg.html)

Thanks for looking.  :)

That is looking so good!

Hi Alexandre

I am a great admirer of your "scruffy-style". This reminds me of certain pictures I found on this site: http://www.dubtown.de.
Great finish with that ground work, and that rust effects on the road sign are simply insane...   

With some "green thingies" as in this pic below those blue tiles up there will be a good contrast to the mainly gloomy scene.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2FWestlake%2520Publishing%2520Forum%2FChernobyl_zpseec13082.jpg%7Eoriginal&hash=c4593bae956a9ffc535596d8ef823a720269268d) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/Westlake%20Publishing%20Forum/Chernobyl_zpseec13082.jpg.html)

Very well done!
Peter

Thanks friends.
Chuck : Thank you so much for looking Maestro.

Peter : Very funny and great you show this. First because my scene is directly inspired by Pripyat, Ukraine. (which is where your dodgem car picture's been taken)
Second because the Dodgem car scene is the one Gordon (GFadvance) have to built. We (Gordon, Marc and I) shared dozens of pictures about that subject in the past months.  :)

Scruffy, I had to search for the translation, and yes, it's exactly the word I needed. This sums-up perfectly what I'm trying to achieve in my different projects.
Thank you very much.

The moss and green stuff is coming, let's hope before the next week.

By the way : The sign says "Pool n°3" in Russian. This is directly inspired (but a freelance design though) by the Azure Swimming Pool of Pripyat.
EDIT : In Russian, even if we're located in Ukraine. Because as some of you may know, USSR tried to erase local languages within its frontiers. So except some Far-east Republics, Every official building got Russian inscriptions instead of their local counterparts.   

Coming along adequately. -- Russ

All it needs is the sound of a Geiger counter ticking.

Or a burned out Chryslus.

That is looking insanely good!

Masterful. Love the colors and shading.

Thank you very much guys.
Some work on the green stuff.
It doesn't look totally right in this ultra close-up, but it's OK at standard eye sight.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_web_moss_zpsff7cb2c1.jpg&hash=840202cf1c3eff34a2289c9269f99b2983688115) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_web_moss_zpsff7cb2c1.jpg.html)

 8)
Nice colors Alex!

Alexandre,
I am absolutely amazed by the depth of the dead leaves and the moss.
Excellent work!

Christian

I don't know what you had in mind but it looks just fine to me. -- Russ

Quote from: BKLN on July 09, 2013, 11:59:16 AM
I am absolutely amazed by the depth of the dead leaves and the moss.
Excellent work!
Christian

I agree 100% Very, very good results! How did you do the moss blotches?

Peter

That is remarkable, especially as everything had been primed grey. its a very evocative scene.

Thank you and Hello everyone.

Moss : There's two different techniques on the scene. First one is just classic moss for scenery from Mininature, glued in patches and stained with green and more natural colors.
The other is different and can't talk about yet because the scene is done for an article about vegetation in the next, next (issue#6) The Weathering Mag from AKinteractive.

It's not too far from what I wanted, just dispointed to not having been able to use the bas-relief I spent so many time working on. I've messed with the painting of that part and had to find another layout and results last minute. Don't like that.
:)
But yes, I'm satisfied with the look of the moss and ground cover.

I'm working the last and more difficult part of the scene right now. Birch trees and Pine trees SBS.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Ftrees_test_zps190432af.jpg&hash=baa84ae1787bbbd45ca4024a90cc3220f581c6a4) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/trees_test_zps190432af.jpg.html)

In progress, I might (and should) add some detail texture here and there, but at least, that's the start of it.
There are not so much things in groundwork/diorama/nature modelling I dislike doing as much as scale trees.

Thanks to Gordon for his tips/help/support during the building process of these.

Hey Alex all I did was send one sentence and a couple of pics, your the one who did the work and turned into very nice scale birch tree!

Not so sure of the fir tree, branches and needles are impressive it's just the top of it that some how does not look right .... Don't really know what it is? ....... Maybe if you removed one of the two top branches sticking out from the trunk ??

If that is a coin in the foreground, why is it not polished? After all, this is a very formal website. -- Russ

The bar for groundwork is getting pretty high around here.

Dude, you are really "harshing my mellow. :)

Thank you guys.
Yes, what's wrong with this pine tree? I can see it is wrong but can't say what it is.
Damn I hate doing trees so hard my brain is bleeding.

Russ, it's a 2.6134 USD coin.  :) Somebody please send me a nickel so I can have an US forum compatible scale tool.

Chuck, thank you very much.

Marc, that's enough slang for today. thanks for the lesson :)

So as today this is how it looks.
I need to add the trees above, the ones here are only for mass-effect and background, so I did not go crazy on detailing them.
Sooner or later I'll have to paint the metal pole too. I'm also thinking of adding a puddle.
Plus some minor details here and there and can we call this done?

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Foverview_test_zps0c0a052d.jpg&hash=89b0cb180b2d16da3e3d2b2e916b03ddd5959604) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/overview_test_zps0c0a052d.jpg.html)

My impressions of what may be wrong with the trees: The trees without leaves look like twigs rather than trees. Maybe you will add detail and that will change. Either way, the way the branches point and the lack of dozens of smaller branches disturb me.

Similarly, the tree with the leaves appears artificial, as though oversize conifer needles attach to a twig with the same shortcomings as above. It looks unnatural.

The rest of the diorama is so outstanding that, to my eye, the trees detract.

I find the idea of building trees as tedious as you so, when I needed them, I bought some decent ones. Maybe you could modify a commercial product if one is suitable. Or else drill holes in a twig with appropriate shape and texture, add branches (guys usually use stranded electrical wire for deciduous trees), and literally scratchbuild what you need...if you can tolerate it.

Russ

Thanks for the input Russ, I can't agree more, these trees aren't up to the rest of the diorama.
I've searched for commercial ones, but the rare that may look convincing are very often under scaled. Good for H0, not really for 1/20.
Unfortunately, this is the best I can do with the time I had. I've first tried the wire way, but it didn't turn as great as I've seen by others, and it has really broken my nerves while doing it so I didn't try again.

These are my main ref. pictures for the tree part.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fref_pic_2_zpsba738ec2.jpg&hash=857ffb1d82777e85c37172ca30ba4b74888b228a) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/ref_pic_2_zpsba738ec2.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fref_pic_1_zpsaa2c0e34.jpg&hash=631aa45867db17745019447c026cab51dbf731bc) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/ref_pic_1_zpsaa2c0e34.jpg.html)

I feel I'm close enough, not in a good replica of the pictures but in a good "atmosphere" even if of course I'd have love to have more time to care more of the trees.
This is a close up on how it looks now. I'm making the final set of pictures to be sent to the editor tomorrow, so except some really small details, it will not change for a while, because I have a new project to start right now.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_final_1_zps78dd1157.jpg&hash=0841955afaba9b277d4a254dfd0be2c6d0f7f063) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_final_1_zps78dd1157.jpg.html)

PS : the screw may seem strange and off topic. It is. It's a tribute to Tarkovski's 1979 movie "Stalker". People visiting the Zone have to move with an artifact (a screw actually) before walking deeper and deeper in the center of the Zone.
Thanks goodness I'm a Science fiction modeler so can throw a screw in my scene without searching a logical reason to justify it.
 

I cannot see the pictures. Is it me or do others have the same problem ?

can not see a thing - and the dogs spooked the TV losing channels and all over the place -my laptop batteries are giving up - The DVD recorder box thing will not switch on -FOTKI tells me its getting hot and try again later and IKEA had a power cut and did not tell any one - is it just me or is it world wide -and its to Hot got no socks on!!
Barney
running hot and not digital -bring back steam power and wind up windows

I guess I should repeat this for the tenth time: Please upload actual jpegs. Do not upload links to other site. If you do, you now can see what will happen. -- Russ

Know your right Russ, but in this instance think the removal was deliberate by Alex due to publication issues ?

Yeah...Alex unfortunately had to remove them. I don't think he was so much intending to remove them from here (as we are a different crowd) but he had them on another place or two also.....so it was probably easier to take them down from the hosting page/PhotoBucket, rather than the sites individually.

Oh. -- Russ

Hello everybody.

Marc and Gordon are right.
I've been asked to delete the pictures of the last project I've done, for publishing reasons.
As they were all on the same hosting site, i've chosen to delete them from there for ease and time reason, as the build log was shared on other places too.

Sorry, hate to do that, but had no choice.

Have a great day.

Hello gentlemen.

This is a collaborative project between Marc, Gordon and I. As usual, they did all the hard work, and I'm doing the fun one.
I'm very late with this one and must hurry to finish it, but to keep this thread alive and show you some new stuff, here's a quick preview on how it looks.

It's a full scratch built street scene of Mogadishu, Somalia. Right now, I'm doing plaster and concrete texture / effects on the building. As you can see there's still a lot to do.

Thanks for looking.

Alex.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_fb1_zpsd950edea.jpg&hash=c9152ee2609f5b547705e29cdb579cf1f6086685) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_fb1_zpsd950edea.jpg.html)

Great job, looks spot on!

Terrific. -- Russ

How the heck does transatlantic modelling work?

Great stuff Alexandre !!!

Post office  ;D ;D

Thank you lads.

Guy > They shipped all I needed. Just like a good e-shop. 8)
Seriously, Gordon & Marc have been so helpful, without them this project simply could not have been done.

Alex
What material did you use so far? what' the sub structure, how big is the piece?
thanks
MPH

Quote from: Guy Milh(imeter) on August 26, 2013, 12:31:03 PM
How the heck does transatlantic modelling work?

Great stuff Alexandre !!!

Long arms, and late nights/early mornings (depending on what side of the pond you are on) :)

That plaster looks superb. All the concern and hair pulling was for nothing :)

QuoteSeriously, Gordon & Marc have been so helpful, without them this project simply could not have been done.

Don't believe him. He just needed some egginng-on....it was purely in my self interest, so that I could live vicariously through him, and not build a Mog scene myself :). 

Self interest from me to

Let me " finish" something in white plastic and leave somebody else to have all the hassle with primer, h/spray, paint etc :D

Looks good Alex, you certainly captured that worn plaster/ concrete look

Quote from: Mr Potato Head on August 26, 2013, 02:36:03 PM
Alex
What material did you use so far? what' the sub structure, how big is the piece?
thanks
MPH

Material is mainly cork and modelling paste, can't say or show too much about this because it's one of the subject of the article, but all infos will be fingers crossed in the next Modeler's Annual. If I'm quick enough and if Russ doesn't become mad at me because of my late :-\
Marc came with a partially built 1/35 shop in bare plastic with some nice details. So the sub structure for the building is plastic. Gordon came with a scratch build I "ordered" from him and that I'll show later.
The size : The full width of the scene is 13cm, so what's in the picture is something like 8cm width.

Alexandre, you are in deep trouble. But your modeling is so good I can't wait for the article. -- Russ

That is really looking great!

That is great looking concrete.

Jerry

Thank you gentlemen, Russ, Chuck, Jerry.
Air getting fresher over Mogadishu thanks to the A/C unit...

I've spent a lot of time on the aqua green color. It comes from various reference pictures showing this color used here and there in Mog.
All the tonal variation, colors enhancing and little scratches are really time eater, but it may look OK, at the end.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_fb4_zps7db15507.jpg&hash=2727f8bb88a2179b4d26e064471751da5715393a) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_fb4_zps7db15507.jpg.html)

Very impressive work! IMHO this type of material is very tricky to get it to look "right", and you've nailed it.

Lovely.mrealy like the tonal variations. Look just like the prototype pics. It was worth the effort and time.

Most satisfactory. -- Russ

 :)
Thank you Ray, Marc, Russ.
I see an end on this project, as I'm now in some detail painting.
A few days of hard work and it'll be done.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_fb5_zpse7011b62.jpg&hash=13ad45db47c6dbab59341839955a7ecc33881e09) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_fb5_zpse7011b62.jpg.html)

Well no slacking young Alex!

Looking good though, was wondering how you were going to this bit

Thank you Gordon.
I'm almost starting your piece.
You know, there are 2 kinds of people in the world. Those who build the stuff and the people who paint it :)
;)

Quote from: Alexandre on September 03, 2013, 05:26:34 AM
You know, there are 2 kinds of people in the world. Those who build the stuff and the people who paint it :)
;)

LOL!......so just how many times have you watched that in these last few days?

Haha :)
Just one actually, but it's my favorite film. I watch it at least 4 times a year.

All these naughty guys in the corner are designated for water duty!
Here's something to help them.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fprev_fb6_zps2bc5f9a6.jpg&hash=e3e4d488f3092677056621a2e3794c73269f5926) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/prev_fb6_zps2bc5f9a6.jpg.html)

Very nice! Is that 1/35th scale?

Yes Ray it is.
Built by the amazing Gordon Ferguson, wiring, straps, painting and weathering by me.

AMAZING!
I love how these little (often unnoticed) utilitarian "things" can become such wonderful models or even mini scenes!
Definitely a "keeper"!
-Marty

Mr Amazing here  :-[ :-[

It certainly looks a lot better now after you have had your hands on it

Will the article tell us how you painted that barrel, sort of interested ::)

Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on September 04, 2013, 08:47:22 AM
Mr Amazing here  :-[ :-[

It certainly looks a lot better now after you have had your hands on it

Will the article tell us how you painted that barrel, sort of interested ::)

   From now on I shall be calling you " Grace" !

Quote from: shropshire lad link=topic=2007.msg43782#msg43782 date=
/quote]

   From now on I shall be calling you " Grace" !

"Your Grace" will be sufficient

At last you are starting to learn your place  :D

Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on September 04, 2013, 08:47:22 AM
Will the article tell us how you painted that barrel, sort of interested ::)

I didn't take SBS picture of this. Too much layers and too little time.
But I'll add some words about this in the text if it's of interest.

Quote from: lab-dad on September 04, 2013, 08:18:23 AM
AMAZING!
I love how these little (often unnoticed) utilitarian "things" can become such wonderful models or even mini scenes!
Definitely a "keeper"!
-Marty

Thanks Marty. The scene is so small, this will definitely be the Star of the vignette. (With some concrete, groundwork and building)

Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on September 04, 2013, 09:21:39 AM

Quote from: shropshire lad link=topic=2007.msg43782#msg43782 date=
/quote]

   From now on I shall be calling you " Grace" !

"Your Grace" will be sufficient

At last you are starting to learn your place  :D

  Pah , more like " Dis Grace " .

Twice today, and for a minute, I've thought you took the plunge and wrote a comment or a critique about one of the models or experiments I post here on an regular basis.
But I'm reassured.

Wow. That is lovely. I think from now on I will send you all my odd bits for painting as well. I raelly like all the coloring and shading....not to mention the fine detail of the strapping abd wires.

A great really nice joint effort piece by you and Gordon.

Adequate. -- Russ

The coloring is just perfect.

How did you paint this?

Jerry

Thanks gentlemen.
Calling this done.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2FFinal_prev_web_mog_zps02be8461.jpg&hash=0e79a71079477b5b139963d9e23c7deeb5bdcc5e) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/Final_prev_web_mog_zps02be8461.jpg.html)

Most splendid.
Some day you need to give me a painting tutorial and tips.

Really look forward to reading the article on th Modelers Annual.

I just finished Photoshopping the photos and editing the text. The article contains some outstanding techniques and suggestions. It is as superb as the model. -- Russ

Oh sure...tease the cranky guy......

Alexandre, wonderful work, beautifully displayed.

Quote from: marc_reusser on September 07, 2013, 01:06:40 AM
Oh sure...tease the cranky guy......

Look out!  The pot and the kettle are gonna get into it!

Outstanding work, Alexandre ... look forward to reading about your techniques!

Dallas

What a marvelous piece of modeling!

Thank you very much guys.

:)

Still in my Ethiopia-Somalia-Erythrea serie, after the Mogadishu vignette I've completed last week.
I had this little Tamiya T-55 Turret already built and waiting for paint, so it was the occasion to experiment a bit for the new project.
I want to paint this as a former Ethiopian T55 wreck in the Ogaden desert.
The challenge here is to have a sun-bleached and desaturated look in the old rust and camo color, far away from the very orange/yellow rust streaks that can be found in damper areas.   

Also, this is a nice change as it's done old school. I mean, I used Hairspray for the chipping, but no ready-made rust mixtures have been used.
It's all home made oil washes, with basic colors. I felt I needed a bit of "traditional" painting and I like to mix paints myself, sometimes it's funnier than to just open a premixed jar.

So it's the very first steps, plenty to do, but here some pictures to see where it's going.

Steps :
Vallejo Black Primer
Russian Green Acrylic airbrushed.
Mix of Tamiya brown paints as the rust base color, airbrushed
Layers of Hairspray, brushed with a small round brush, in irregulars coats.
Sprayed the top light green coat while the HS was still wet, this giving some blurred pre-chipping and interesting discoloration in the paint.
Chipping with water/Lacquer thinner/acrylic thinner depending on the areas and an old brush
Airbrushed enamel ochre-grey filter on the whole
Dark brown pin wash around all the details   
Ultra-thinned dark brown washes (made randomly from 4 oil colors so all different) applied over the model repeating layer after layer until the blending and look are interesting.

So the next steps will be to add a bit more tonal variation in the camo color and the rust, then more acrylic chipping and detail painting, dust, etc...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Frust_step2_zps81df9082.jpg&hash=afe333a8a95d4ac458692feb350abe353ac6e137) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/rust_step2_zps81df9082.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Frust_step1_zps1675e704.jpg&hash=ce6e83446e25376b1527845b953a26bf8fdb3b94) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/rust_step1_zps1675e704.jpg.html)

Just beautiful.

QuoteVallejo Black Primer
Russian Green Acrylic airbrushed.
Mix of Tamiya brown paints as the rust base color, airbrushed

So, the Tamiya browns...did you just lightly and randomly brush these over the Russian Green? No HS in-between?

You are pretty good with paint. I guess, by definition, that makes you an artist. -- Russ

Thank you Russ, my fine art and design studies help for this. This is the only help they're giving in my daily life, and sadly not the most useful.  ;D

Quote from: marc_reusser on September 17, 2013, 03:41:53 PM
Just beautiful.

QuoteVallejo Black Primer
Russian Green Acrylic airbrushed.
Mix of Tamiya brown paints as the rust base color, airbrushed

So, the Tamiya browns...did you just lightly and randomly brush these over the Russian Green? No HS in-between?

Marc,

Actually the first russian green layer was an happy accident. I first wanted it painted in regular green scheme, but changed my mind in the process and gone for a wreck. So, no HS in between and I've just painted the dark brown over the green, trying to cover everything but staying light in the thickness of the coat. Then when I started chipping later, some gentle rubbing with acrylic thinner made the first green layer appear. Everything's blend after with the filter, so it just gives a sense of depth in some place but it's not so much visible.
The process isn't very controlled and regular, because by brushing the Hairspray, I've often done successive layers of chipping on the same place. There's no definitive Rust + Color layers in the piece, but rather successive worked and reworked areas. Sometimes I've airbrushed rust again on top of the already chipped light green, but always trying to keep the previous coats viewable. So staying light and thinned at each steps.
Also, sorry to be a bit boring, but this is the kind of thing you can't say with pictures. But I think that processing by really small areas really helps for the general look. I mean, I can't have this result by doing the whole turret at the same time. It's just plenty of different zones, and when I had pin washes done at some places, I was still in the base rust color at others.
At the beginning it seems weird because of the patchwork look, but at the end, everything's blend with filters and dusting.

Going back to previous steps for enhancing some areas is really the key.
On the very rusted area at the bottom of the turret, e.g. I had all the pin washes and all the streaking done, but I thought it was looking to wet and grunge, so applied over this already weathered area a very thinned coat of tamiya brown acrylic, to desaturate and blend the whole.

Many AFV modelers are being used by the HS technique instead of using it.
Once chipped with water, this is by no mean the end of the chipping process and many are just going to the next steps because that's how things are written in the magazines. But often then, it gives too harsh and sharp chipping even though the reality is much more layered and delicate.
If you're staying light and thinned, you can literally add hundreds of new layers on top before having a thick feeling and hide details.
Every time I'm spraying over already chipped area, just to blend, and create finer and finer layered chips.
It's just a bit like 3D impressionism. It's the global visual look against the definitive and delimited "steps to do".

Sorry if I sound a bit know it all on this, it is not meant to lecture anybody, just trying to say what we never read in magazine's SBS because I'm sure many are working that way.

That is the kind of detailed information everybody wants, Alex. It's not a lecture -- it's a clinic! -- Russ

Alexandre, although I don´t know much about various colors on turrets  ;D ??? that´s a great and very useful SBS. As you might have figured out I´m more into your dio of the Mogadisho building which is truly awesome.

Anders

Thank you Russ & Anders.  :)

Toying with some bits and parts here and there on simultaneous projects :
90's LandCruiser pick up dashboard and passenger seat in progress.

The sculpture and details are great on the Meng kit, which really help for painting.
The somewhat difficult part (and not 100% success so far) is to make viewers feel the materials : discolored cheap plastic, velour fabric on the seat, rubber etc...

The AK-thing is from Trumpeter. I've sanded the seat in the shape of the AK so it would fit nicely on the seat and show the weight, and yes, forgot to re sculpt the seat's pattern.  :(
The wood parts are painted bright orange first, then toned down with dark brown oil paint, and the veins drawn and blend with oil paints too.
The metal parts are just raw black primer burnished with a stump and AKinteractive Steel pigment.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcab_paint_detail_fb_zps173c71e5.jpg&hash=8a1d399200918711c3b6c9483027ba3f8df9fa63) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/cab_paint_detail_fb_zps173c71e5.jpg.html)

Don't sit in the corner, and be a sour-puss, drink Reinberg's Superior Lemonade : It's most satisfactory. ®

:)

I've been doing some test pieces and experiments on various customs vintage labels and boxes for always popular workshop scenes.
Here are two of them :
They're printed on white heavy mat coated smooth paper, then weathered.  

First one :
Quickly done design, inspired by 1920's era lemonade label, good coloring, but perfectible box design and layout.
The fold markings need IMO to be removed.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Flemonade_cardboard_zps24ebf420.jpg&hash=c96cf94f3abca03eb0f3446405b99bfa0eed66a4) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/lemonade_cardboard_zps24ebf420.jpg.html)

Second one :
Refined logo design and layout, better box without fold marks, but the color is not as good than the first one.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcardboard_box_zps637b84c9.jpg&hash=5e9af315dda90e7ef1add6b52478ba324c70dd2a) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/cardboard_box_zps637b84c9.jpg.html)

Now I need to see if I can go smaller without loosing too much definition. It's 1/20, and I want to go 1/35.
More to come  :), if I'm one day able to leave the corner.

AWESOME!!!  ;D ;D ;D
Lemonade for grumpy old men...

Is there a bikini in the making, too?

Wow! If it wasn't for the Bic lighter, I would have taken that for a prototype photo.

The paint can spills are a nice touch.

Personally, I liked the first logo better than the "refined" version.

That label is classic... well done.
Ken

You think you are being clever, Alex? See below -- something I found online. -- Russ

Ha, ha, great idea  ;D! Those boxes look fantastic! The lemonade would probably go well with Dallas´ burnt laser bread. Nice touch with the paint can mark and splashes.......a classic on this forum.

Anders

 ;D
Thank you very much guys, glad you like the joke.
I'm still working on these and modifying the logos and writings so nothing definitive yet.
As we all make some painting, I thought we may need some Ferguson's soap for our dirty worker hands.
:D

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcardboard_box_1_zps3a608b28.jpg&hash=734a31817a08a8fe04270778a2a41ddde72c296a) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/cardboard_box_1_zps3a608b28.jpg.html)

More to come, as I make them while paint's drying on more serious projects.

Talking about more serious stuff :
Finished interior for my Toyota pick up :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Finterior_details_before_closing_zps3faf2f7d.jpg&hash=3dd9f5207ba1cafc49c06c44e8947bc1ab50983c) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/interior_details_before_closing_zps3faf2f7d.jpg.html)

And some work done on the cargo bed :
There's 5 main layers so far on it :
- Black Primer > Dark Brown > Light Grey (to represent automotive primer) > Dark green > Grey+Green enamel filters as shown on the picture.
It's a bit "flat" for now, but next steps are some oil painting and pin washes to bring out the details.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcargo_bed_filter_zps3e730dac.jpg&hash=016143cc36f9995f51a0f2cbe4269a2847d877a6) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/cargo_bed_filter_zps3e730dac.jpg.html)

Alex, you are a most satisfactory artist/modeler and rather clever, but please spend more quality time with your therapist. Unresolved issues and all that .... -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on September 29, 2013, 08:44:28 PM
please spend more quality time with your therapist. Unresolved issues and all that .... -- Russ

Modelling was my therapy, but will follow the advice. :)

Last one, I promise.
Small enamel plate. (28mmx20mm).
I've designed the whole, freelance design of course, (in Adobe Illustrator / vector format), but inspired by various small enamel tobacco pocket boxes from early XXth.
Thought I could make after these cheap cardboard boxes some enamel ad for a drugstore.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fenamel_sign_2_zps75666922.jpg&hash=bef8be834fd3edb0755dcf2541d8cf628f3dab9b) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/enamel_sign_2_zps75666922.jpg.html)

I'm reaching my camera limits, need a macro lens. The sign has a nice semi gloss metal finish, but can't photograph this or the lettering could not be read.

Now that I had my fun doing this, I might realize some real world industries and brands one.

That sign turned out great! Looks very authentic.

Good likeness of Marc and Chuck, too. -- Russ

Looks great as usual Alexandre!

Did you use glossy photo paper for printing? I have used that and found out the hard way that it has to be sealed before weathering.

Great looking sign! What kind of printer do you use?

The rich unequalled aroma comes from the spitoon.

Okay, Chuck, go stand in the corner. -- Russ

So I 'm a liar and of course there's plenty of others, because when starting this I had a diorama idea in mind :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fenamel_sign_ensemble_zps75634fbb.jpg&hash=c0319fcde2cccd8b0b168e573f1de65a733ef556) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/enamel_sign_ensemble_zps75634fbb.jpg.html)

Featuring :
Adam Wilder
Lincoln Wright
Mike Rinaldi
Roman Volchenkov
Alex Glass aka Uschi van der Rosten
Rick Lawler
Gordon Ferguson
Marc Reusser
Chuck Doan
Jean-Bernard André aka JBA
Mig Jimenez aka MIG
Russ Reinberg.

This is volume 1 of course, and if everything goes well there may be a vol.2 as well as a real large scale diorama.

Some answers :
Everything on this picture is printed on white paper. And printed without photoshopped damages or texture. All the effects and weathering are painted.
I only use white, heavy, mat double coated, smooth paper. No photo glossy paper or anything. Only this one and this brand (french one) because it's an amazing paper :
it's ultra strong and gives an almost better definition as photo paper. But it's mat, it's smooth, and it's better for us modelers with our aggressive thinner and paints.
I know I can be really anal with this, but as I explained the other day to Marc and Gordon, I'm a print process and print technologies nerd.
Also, and this can't help, I'm teaching printing process to graphic design students.

Being a graphic designer really help for this kind of work and I've been able to do this pretty quickly. One of the very rare time I don't regret my job and my studies.  :D
Every font, every page layout is accurate time-wise (early XXth century).

If there's interest, I'm considering doing large scale set of real world (or custom ones if you like it better) stuff like this. Enamel signs, posters etc...
I love vintage graphic design and ads (and it's a main inspiration for my daily real life work) and would love to produce something.

Again, if there's interest, I could do it for forum members, printed, and the set would come with a detailed illustrated SBS (suggestions on how to weather this kind of stuff, although Chuck or Marc kind of guys would laugh reading it).

So let's discuss this if you're interested.

Also, there's plenty of funny stuff we can't see on the picture, so if you like I can post bigger individual pictures.

So it would seem that you ain't no-one if you don't have a sign by Alexandre . I love the irony with the Ferguson soap , seeing as he is a Jock , and they don't wash , and he doesn't work ! And why is Reinberg included ? He doesn't even model .

Nick , sulking in the corner !

Actually , I'm not sulking as I just remembered that I was immortalised more than forty years ago .

The real joke on Gordon's is that it is the "Painters Product"...and we all know about his aversions to painting.  ;D

QuoteThe rich unequalled aroma comes from the spitoon.

I thought it was from my B.S. :)

Wish MY great grandfather thought these up:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages114.fotki.com%2Fv1606%2Fphotos%2F9%2F777399%2F12177534%2Fpillsadvertisingtin40pills1700-vi.jpg&hash=2a0bb3460dc7b9d3e6c290ee4a5c1e675ee23b83)

Great stuff, and what a terrific selection of fonts!

Quote from: shropshire lad on September 30, 2013, 03:53:48 PM
I love the irony with the Ferguson soap , seeing as he is a Jock , and they don't wash , and he doesn't work ! And why is Reinberg included ? He doesn't even model .

ha! ;D ;D Classic.

No sulking needed, it's only Vol.1, and the planned flea market scene will require so much stuff like that to be convincing.

Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 30, 2013, 08:36:37 PM
Wish MY great grandfather thought these up:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages114.fotki.com%2Fv1606%2Fphotos%2F9%2F777399%2F12177534%2Fpillsadvertisingtin40pills1700-vi.jpg&hash=2a0bb3460dc7b9d3e6c290ee4a5c1e675ee23b83)

Great! Why didn't I find this before!

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 01, 2013, 12:28:37 AM
Great stuff, and what a terrific selection of fonts!

Thanks Ray.  :)

QuoteAgain, if there's interest, I could do it for forum members, printed, and the set would come with a detailed illustrated SBS (suggestions on how to weather this kind of stuff, although Chuck or Marc kind of guys would laugh reading it).

T'would have to be strictly a labour of love. I redrew these enamel (porcelain if you're American) signs for a very small run for an English manufacturer back in 1997. He still had a healthy quantity in stock when he sold the business a couple of years ago.

Quote from: shropshire lad on September 30, 2013, 03:53:48 PM
So it would seem that you ain't no-one if you don't have a sign by Alexandre . I love the irony with the Ferguson soap , seeing as he is a Jock , and they don't wash , and he doesn't work ! And why is Reinberg included ? He doesn't even model .

Nick , sulking in the corner !

I see your holiday did you the world of good !! Come back in a great little mood.

Considering you were holidaying  in Scotland , how was that Hotel at Crinnian?, I bet you were not brave enough to come out with these utterances when you were North of the border ;D

Well I for one am interested!
I would love to have a set of those.
-Marty

Great signs from you Alexandre and Kevin as well!

If you would like to make custom work such as personalised signs maybe one could buy them as PDF files in order to change sizes, use different papers and also be able to print on decal paper for cans etc. Whatever..... I´m interested too.

We also have another excellent graphic designer here on the forum Christian (BKLN) who has been kind enough to help me with many signs.

Anders

Alexandre,

Quote from: Alexandre on September 30, 2013, 01:24:36 PM
...
If there's interest, I'm considering doing large scale set of real world (or custom ones if you like it better) stuff like this. Enamel signs, posters etc...
I love vintage graphic design and ads (and it's a main inspiration for my daily real life work) and would love to produce something.

Again, if there's interest, I could do it for forum members, printed, and the set would come with a detailed illustrated SBS (suggestions on how to weather this kind of stuff, although Chuck or Marc kind of guys would laugh reading it).

... I would be interested in a (small) set or at least some prints i. e. like the Reinberg lemonade (and an SBS) ... can these drawings be upscaled (up to 1/16) ... ?

Cheers

What paper do you use, Alex? I found Lanaquarelle cold press very useful for representing porous materials (wood, brick) but it is a very different kind of paper from what you must be using. I also learned, the hard way, that even very good matte photo inkjet papers, like Epson's, have a very delicate surface; it tends to chip during construction. Your results are outstanding and all of us would like to learn more about how you do it. -- Russ

P.S.: Nick, go stand in the corner.

Quote from: finescalerr on October 01, 2013, 12:44:00 PM
What paper do you use, Alex? I found Lanaquarelle cold press very useful for representing porous materials (wood, brick) but it is a very different kind of paper from what you must be using. I also learned, the hard way, that even very good matte photo inkjet papers, like Epson's, have a very delicate surface; it tends to chip during construction. Your results are outstanding and all of us would like to learn more about how you do it. -- Russ

P.S.: Nick, go stand in the corner.

  I was already in the corner . Should I move to another corner ?

Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on October 01, 2013, 05:44:01 AM

Quote from: shropshire lad on September 30, 2013, 03:53:48 PM
So it would seem that you ain't no-one if you don't have a sign by Alexandre . I love the irony with the Ferguson soap , seeing as he is a Jock , and they don't wash , and he doesn't work ! And why is Reinberg included ? He doesn't even model .

Nick , sulking in the corner !

I see your holiday did you the world of good !! Come back in a great little mood.

Considering you were holidaying  in Scotland , how was that Hotel at Crinnian?, I bet you were not brave enough to come out with these utterances when you were North of the border ;D

  The holiday was fine , except for all the dour Scots ! Only joking . The majority were very nice indeed . It was just the tossers ( probably from Glasgow ) in another cabin who felt it necessary to stay awake all night and thought that everyone else around them needed to stay awake as well .

   Couple of nights spent at Crinan and I took photos of two of the three Puffers that we saw . As mentioned elsewhere . Still haven't downloaded the photos .

Quote from: Krusty on October 01, 2013, 03:53:54 AM

QuoteAgain, if there's interest, I could do it for forum members, printed, and the set would come with a detailed illustrated SBS (suggestions on how to weather this kind of stuff, although Chuck or Marc kind of guys would laugh reading it).

T'would have to be strictly a labour of love. I redrew these enamel (porcelain if you're American) signs for a very small run for an English manufacturer back in 1997. He still had a healthy quantity in stock when he sold the business a couple of years ago.

Well, if I had seen them advertised, I would have bought a sheet or two!

Quote from: marc_reusser on October 01, 2013, 03:25:53 PM

Well, if I had seen them advertised, I would have bought a sheet or two!

Actually ... Me too! ... Didn't know they existed, and have spent ages searching the net looking for such signs to copy etc.

Would have bought a couple of sets too  >:(! How about reprinting them?

Anders

I think there would be ethical and, possibly, legal issues in me reprinting them. I understand they are still available, nowadays from ABS, if you can manage to find The Black Hole of Poole at a British model railway exhibition (I gather mail ordering stuff from him is difficult and he doesn't do internet commerce, apparently).

Ouch.
October 2013.
Although I look like, I'm not dead yet, but the past 4 months had been spent far from the workbench and modelling in general.
Lots of new stuff going in real life, but I recently spent some hours on my Somali Toyota Land Cruiser technical, and here are some bad iPhone pictures of the progress :

As a reminder we were there 4 months ago :

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcargo_bed_hs_primer_1_zps23f7fadc.jpg&hash=8c2e0305689c36725e5c25171d16b4dbe2c83197) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/cargo_bed_hs_primer_1_zps23f7fadc.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcargo_bed_filter_zps3e730dac.jpg&hash=016143cc36f9995f51a0f2cbe4269a2847d877a6) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/cargo_bed_filter_zps3e730dac.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Finterior_details_before_closing_zps3faf2f7d.jpg&hash=3dd9f5207ba1cafc49c06c44e8947bc1ab50983c) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/interior_details_before_closing_zps3faf2f7d.jpg.html)

And now, with some painting on the front/cab part, Miracle Paint Masks custom masks for the TOYOTA logo on the cargo bed, and a assembled mock up (nothing glued)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fcargo_bed_logo_zps549e9ddf.jpg&hash=8cee9f4ccfd2b5e5027e2ab56369a00d6f724af3) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/cargo_bed_logo_zps549e9ddf.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Fpainting_cab_zpsd410d976.jpg&hash=5d405d258e3e5dd22edb22b3c5c032f91ef98e15) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/painting_cab_zpsd410d976.jpg.html)

Still a lot to do, but it's good to paint again some stuff.
Next step is a bit of weathering, and the doors, too.  :)

Thanks for looking.

Glad you have had time to get back to the bench, it's been worth the wait  :)

You are beginning to show a glimmer of promise. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on January 15, 2014, 12:07:17 PM
You are beginning to show a glimmer of promise. -- Russ

;D

Well, small update and some random pictures : I'm happy with the blurred/sanded/overused aspect of the paint, but I'm hesitating now :
I'll soon have to fit the doors, wonder if I'm making the same scheme, or if I go for replacement doors, in another color/effect maybe a civil or a camo-ed one. I like the idea but it might be a bit cliché, the Frankenstein-ed pick up. 

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Ftechnical_paint_mockup2_zps2831fd34.png&hash=42df315ef843d1d211bc8b29f6367a0d20ad97a4) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/technical_paint_mockup2_zps2831fd34.png.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Ftechnical_paint_mockup3_zpsbb46edf3.png&hash=abfdf1b9323c4a78ad6bfb82542634910cdae032) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/technical_paint_mockup3_zpsbb46edf3.png.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1193.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa351%2Faljedo%2Ftechnical_paint_mockup_zps831eb866.png&hash=d14edf9de1ae3b05afe3ee22f16ea0520eb073e0) (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/aljedo/media/technical_paint_mockup_zps831eb866.png.html)

For some reason I predict the completed model will look fine. -- Russ

My thoughts would be:

Same doors, but maybe painted waith bad house or spray paint to signify what militia the belong to.

Same Doors with slogans/markings

No doors. I noticed in our ref,. Materials, several without door...plus you can crowd more people on that way, and it is easier to get out when coming under fire.


The Franken vehicle is a bit too cliche IMO, and I don't recall seeing that being very common among the Somali techs.....they seem to generally be in short supply of vehicles to scavenge from...and seem to try to squeeze as long a life out of them as possible.

I have an issue with the head-ache rack/roll-bar. I can't recall the "skinnies" having these on any technicals that did not have a cab upper/roof. They did often have the low welded "H" bar set-up across the front where the windshield was, or in place of the rack, for supporting/holding in place, the barrel of the recoilless rifle.