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The Google SketchUp Thread

Started by marc_reusser, May 15, 2010, 11:24:21 PM

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Lawton Maner


Nice. Should be very easy to model/extrude in S.U. the parts are pretty much repetetive/duplicteas from one side and end to the other ...they can be copied and flipped and then tweaked/adjusted for any differences that they may have.

What will be the important and harder part is figuring out how you want it to assemble and ..and thus how the parts are to be done so they fit and work together; also material/wall thicknesses, and then on the frame, whether you are going too detail it like a prototype frame interior...or straight/simple like a static or powered RR model. Other than that it is just push/pull/extrude/tug/rotate and Bob's you're uncle.
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....



I can't believe how rusty I am on SketchUp. I spent a good part of the day blundering around to re-familiarize myself but now I'm very slowly underway. -- Russ


Here is the Plymouth so far. The first two images show the overall frame and the end. -- Russ


The final two show the frame side(s), front and back.

I have questions:

1. The little stanchions on the front side probably won't print well in 1:32 scale and I suspect, if I do print them, they should be as separate pieces. Comments please.

2. To ensure the frame goes together correctly I am thinking about creating matching holes on the ends of the frame sides and the rear of the frame ends. A piece of brass rod could fit into the holes to keep the frame square and the sides accurately spaced. Yes? No? Better idea?

The sides have a lot of detail. Will the nuts and bolts, lettering, and other parts print cleanly in a scale as small as 1:32? I'm open to any and all comments. Thanks!



I would like to see the "bearings" a separate component.
That way the axles could be assembled.
I would be interested in having the bearings printed in brass/bronze as an option for those model that will move.

Also, here are my parts printed, washed in acetone, air erased,scrubbed with acetone again and painted.
I see the layers upon magnification but not without.
I dont feel it is a big deal as these parts were cast (even though the lines dont look like casting marks) but for "ultra" detail well I'm not impressed. I do not see a way to sand them either.
The parts are .375" wide.


Chuck Doan

Those actually look pretty good!
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt



Good news Russ!

On a similar note i did some renderings in sketch up today!

Jerry (trains1941) is "supposedly" going to build the Maude Monroe mine.
He asked about the foundation and i thought I would try it in SU and get some more practice.
It turned out great (I think) but since it is a "foundation" it has a lot of mass.
wondering what i should print it out in???
The overall size is 3.13 x / 1.93 y / 0.897 z
The little square indentations are for o scale 8x8's



I have drawn this a bunch of times and every time I get the same issue(s)
Some of my circles are smooth and some show the 96 "planes.
I am working in a "decimal" model to the 6th place.
I do exactly the same thing on each side but get this result.
Look at the difference between the right and left radii.



Marty,  Ive had that happen also and don't know why. 
But instead of drawing it again, why didn't you just copy and paste the one on the right hand over to the left side?
I do a lot of copy/paste because I hate redrawing the same thing over again.
Dave Mason
D&GRR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
"A people that values its privileges above its principles will soon lose both."~Dwight D. Eisenhower


Or select the one on the left and fiddle with the Soften/Smooth Edges dialog box until you have removed the lines. I tend to set the circle tool to 144 facets. You have to do that anytime you've restarted SketchUp because, as many of us, it forgets such things. -- Russ


If you are trying to expoert a rendering directly from Sketchup then it makes a difference. If creating a 3d mesh then it doesn't matter. IF you want a better rendering then install Kerkythea and plugin
Ed Traxler

Lugoff, Camden & Northern RR

Socrates: "I drank WHAT?"


I think it has something to do with when the arc or circle it touching another surface?
Anyway I got it "built"
Will add the sprue and send it off.......


The fact that the lines show or don't show, has no effect on the 3D model on your screen....or the ensuing print. As Ed notes, you can use the "smooth tool" if it bothers you visually ...and by nudging it slightly up or down in value it will disappear.

When working and building the model, there is actually a better argument/reason for having the lines (defined surfaces) indicated rather than having them smooth.....if you smooth the surface/component it is much harder to work accurately, as there is a chance that you will accidentally miss a work-point or alignment...this is particularly true in beginner and intermediate level users, a there is the chance to accidentally nudge the intended work (IE line start location off point and end up somewhere on the surface or along the line).....I also seen extensive problems when the surfaces are smoothed too much, and the lines/points begin to "blend" (disappear) and lose "connectivity"/definement....and when the user goes to push/pull/move/extrude, etc. the part, some sections/areas don't extrude or some that you don't want to do, and you end up with odd plane fragments/pieces, or non co-planar or properly extruded parts/sections......which if caught immediately can be fixed.....but if they are not caught they can throw off the entire rest of the model...or at least create enough of a "bug" in the model that you have to spend inordinate amounts of time chasing down misalignment problems, gaps, holes, planes that won't form etc.
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....



Thanks Marc, the lines make sense then.

How many sides should I set my circles to then?