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Brekina KLV20 for standard gauge.

Started by Design-HSB, July 06, 2020, 04:34:42 AM

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I won a Brekina KLV 20 in a model making competition and it only runs on a 45 mm track gauge, if it runs at all.
There are several IG-Spur II members who have tried it and now I have. I also wanted to convert it to a standard gauge, i.e. 64 mm track gauge.

The lucky coincidence came that I was able to purchase a remnant of suitable wheels. Unfortunately, the original wheels are of low quality. Here, new wheels have already been pressed on for the test.

The new axle made of 4 mm stainless steel, with extended wheel bushings turned out of brass, can already be seen here with the new wheels.

Compared to the wheelsets with 45- and 64-mm track gauge.

In order to achieve real running, I quickly created a press-up device in the lathe.

For the drive axle I needed a new sprocket because of the changed axle diameter with module 0.6, which I adapted on the lathe. The new recordings for the pantographs can already be seen.

The vehicle is accompanied by these footboards, which unfortunately bear little resemblance to the model vehicle.

That's why I drew an etching film for new kicks and here already the result of 0.15 mm new silver plate. In addition, I would also like to have such kick rusts for my V100 and this is an excellent test for me.

When I separated the first fields from the etching sheet, I noticed how different I am now, without confusing them. So I cut a corner at the bottom left and marked the fields from 1 to 4. Since the fields 3 and 4 are at the bottom later, I turned them over immediately and therefore the corner section of these fields is now at the top left. Then I set up all stripes clean vertically with tweezers.

First, I put the boxes 1 and 3 together and look, it was easier than thought and fit immediately, as you can see here.

To ensure that this remains the case, I secured the corners with a little solder and later soldered the rust itself around, of which there is unfortunately no picture.

In order to be able to cut out the contour cleanly, I now keep everything between 2 GRP plates with the appropriate contour. With a very pointed fine side cutter, I first cut through the retaining bars on the outside and then separated flush in front of the GRP. Since everything is already soldered, only the tips had to break on very fine sandpaper.

In this apprenticeship, I bent the edge strip and soldered it with the kick.

After just over a day, these 3 kicks had become of an etching plate and now the brackets follow.
Regards Helmut
the journey is the goal

Bill Gill

Bernd, that looks like a fun project, with your usual excellent craftsmanship!
I see in the second photo thatyou are experimenting with making this vehicle
a track cleaning car with the brush underneath the chasis  ;D



Hello Bill,
such a little fun must be with the hobby, where quality already gives me pleasure.
In fact, I test something with the brush but unfortunately the test has failed.
Hello Russ, any improvement that is clearly visible is a step forward.
Hello at all,
the steps alone would not be mounted on the KLV 20, so I started to build holders for it.

I still construct in 2D to get files for my milling machine.

After that, it can then go to work and the most difficult thing is to define the work steps one after the other, because the workpiece must be able to be stretched all the time.

The first page is quite simple the always goes.

At the 2 side I secure the whole thing by filling the cut-outs of the first page with plaster.

After milling the third side, it is very nice to see the fuse through the plaster.

The first holder is mounted and with the stage this looks much better, I think. Now free-riders could already ride along, just oh no, the mirror for holding is still missing, but actually the KLV 20 had a rear-view mirror?
Regards Helmut
the journey is the goal


Excellent work, Helmut. Could similar grills be built in 1:35?


Bernhard, theoretically yes, just practically not yet tried. It also depends on whether it should be diamonds like here or rectangles.
I have already made grids with rectangles, here a link to the BBF where I described this.
Regards Helmut
the journey is the goal


You need to establish the Helmut Locomotive Works so I can order engines from you! -- Russ

Ray Dunakin

Cool project. Really amazing work creating the grid for the steps!
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World


Hi Helmut.
That great etch has made all the difference


In the meantime, I have made progress with my KLV20.

I have once again worked intensively on the wheels.
At the bottom left is the original full metal wheel, above it the wheels I bought with plastic core and stainless steel wheel tyres.
At the top of the middle the stainless steel wheel with etched aperture inserted.
Underneath a milled aperture. which in my opinion is even closer to the original and next to it a ring to shape and press these apertures appropriately.
At the top right the finished wheel, but which is turned out to accommodate the larger aperture. In addition, the track wreath is still turned off the wheel.

The Brekina model has a hinted towing eye on the front.
In order to make this towing device recognizable as such, a 0.5 mm brass plate was produced which can be screwed with 2 screws underneath.
For this purpose, I inserted 0.8 mm holes into the base plate and cut M1 threads for fastening.
In addition, a hole for a coupling bolt was inserted and a suitable recess was created.

Here's another picture of the kicks.
I decided to step with the appropriate length under the passenger doors.
I had already shown how to create the grids myself.
The holders are milled again as usual with me and then soldered with the holder at the top with silver solder.

Here again compared to the Brekina kicks my versions.

On this picture you can see all the additional and additional newly built parts of me.
In particular, I would like to point out that I needed 2 mm more ground clearance, so that the wheel also fits in the rear of the wheel cut-out.
In the thread before it, the 2 mm gap between the body and the base plate could still be seen by passing 2mm distances.
Unfortunately, the axles are not so easy to move 2mm down.
That's why I made connecting plates and sawed off the base plate at the front and back.
Then suitable 2mm pads placed and the part with the bumper can lift 2mm.
Of course, the same must be done with the inner cover and motor mount.

Here now the fully assembled KLV20 with new wheels new steps and adapted body.

However, something remains to be done after placing the body on the previously tested base plate, the model no longer runs backwards since the gearbox is now jammed.

I think I still have to think about a turning device.

That's why I'm now looking for pictures or documents that can give a rougher insight into the construction of the lifting and turning device.

Unfortunately, my own research has so far been unsuccessful.
Regards Helmut
the journey is the goal


Forwards or backwards, a big improvement. -- Russ

Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World


The model has improved a lot compared to the original condition.