Back to the Big

[chester]

Are you sure you didn't break it on purpose? I mean it does (did) need some work to be recognized as a model.

[marc_reusser]

Chuck,

Thanks for the great decal SBS. The grey outline, and then paint in once applied is a great tip. I would never have thought of that.

M

[marc_reusser]

Any chance you can re-assemble the pieces, on a piece of clear packing tape?

Not to crash the thread, (and I think this tip came from Ken Hamilton), FWIW, I used packing tape on the inside of this slide-cover windshield, to get the cracked look. In your case, even if the tape slightly distorted the transparency, might not be a bad thing, as most old glass had that "wavey" transparency/look, because of how it was made




M

[Chuck Doan]

Good tip Marc, but it shattered, basically. The decal did keep the pieces from flying though. Not the look I wanted for that pane.

Did you scribe the packing tape or fold it or?  Kudos for cutting that shape, I struggle with simple rectangles! Can't wait for the book to come out!

It may have been subliminal, Chester. I just do what my brain tells me. Stupid brain.

[marc_reusser]

I cut the glass to the shape I needed, then laminated the packing tape to it, and cut away the extra tape with an xacto; then turned the glass over, so that the tape was facing down (on the bench), and used a sharpened dowel (round wood toothpick works well), and simply applied pressure at the point I wanted to have the cracks originate from (as if a rock or such had hit the window)......and that was all there was to it. Glasswas then glued in place with the tape on the inside.

[k27rgs]

I'm with Dan.   

Chuck.  These days I just look at your work  and appreciate the years of experiments you must have made to achieve the high level detail of scale model construction

"M" ( the other one )

[nk]

WOW WOW WOW Chuck. You just keep getting better and better.

When are you going to put in the spider's webs and dead gnats?

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Mario! Thanks Narayan, I might try your silicon carbide asphalt if I have room on the base.


I did a replacement decal and pane, and added some glaziers points made from thinned Mylar. A last burst of insanity for the year.

[Malachi Constant]

That's really rotten and yet quite beautiful!  -- Dallas

[lab-dad]

That looks great for being in such bad shape!
Question;
Wouldn't the glazing points be on the inside?
Just seems more logical to me.
But then what the heck do i know?
Marty

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Dallas!

Marty, the glass installs from this side (the outside) and fits into a recess in the muntins. The points are pushed into the muntins to hold the glass until it it puttyed (puttied?). I made diamond shaped ones (half the diamond is supposedly in the wood muntin so I only made a triangle); there are other shapes too in the real world. They are .002 thick and .02 tall.

The inside of the muntin would be a milled shape so it would look nice.

[TRAINS1941]

Chuck

That is the most realistic broken window I'be ever seen.  Reminds me of an old window on my Uncles farm some 30 years ago.

Jerry

[Malachi Constant]

It also reminds me of how I feel some days ... starting to get dragged down by gravity, but partially stuck in the casing ... and wondering where and when the old panes (sic) are going to pop up or drop out! 

[Ray Dunakin]

I don't know how you always manage to top yourself, but you've done it again! A marvelous piece of work, indistinguishable from the real thing.

How big are those panes?

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Jerry!

I know how you feel Dallas. As I get older, my models get more decrepit.

Thank you Ray, the panes are .625 x .750, which is a scale 10 x 12. Quite fragile when installed.