Corrugation problem

[Ray Dunakin]

I made some corrugated metal out of .001" brass sheet, by taping it down on a sheet of 1/24th scale plastic corrugated material. I then ran my thumbnail along the grooves. It turned out ok but wants to curl up. Any suggestions on how to get to lay flat, or at least flatter, without damaging it?

[NORCALLOGGER]

Ray,
Build a press and stamp the sheet.
Rick

[Design-HSB]

Hi Ray,
I hope I've understood you correctly, the problems that have corrugated iron to smooth out.
I'm my own corrugated iron on a scale of 1:22.5 with a paper crimper
That goes with brass, aluminum and tin.


Corrugated iron for the scale 1:22,5


Even the arch can be made ​​of aluminum.


paper crimper

[eTraxx]

That Fiskars paper crimper works great for the larger scales. I used it to make the corrugated roofing for a 1:24 building. I got mine at Michaels .. forget how much but was $15 or under.


The long 'gears' that make the corrugations/crimps are really pretty simple. With the right set-up you should be able to make a set for the smaller scales .. a small mill would work but you would need an indexing table of some sort.

[Ray Dunakin]

I have one of the paper crimpers, which I use most of the time. But for this model I need smaller corrugations. The method I described above worked ok but causes the metal to roll up. I just want to straighten it out, without removing the corrugations.

I don't have any machining tools, so I can't make a press or anything like that.

[Design-HSB]

Hi Ray,

Just put it on both sides of the wells I right corrugated iron wires.
If the wire diameter is not enough just yet to put a U-profile.
So you'd have to straighten out the tin can.
And I would make me at least three grooves at the same time.

[eTraxx]

Ray, can you flip it 180° and press from the opposite side? If you could seems like it would straighten it out

[marc_reusser]

Shot  in the dark, but what about anealing (heating and letting cool) the brass sheet before you do emboss the coorugations....and then leke Ed notes do it from one side, flip it and do the ther side to try and even out any stresses/deformation.

Does it need to be brass? The bottom of those aluminum basting/roasting/party trays that they sell at the grocery store have a nice gauge and stiffness of alum.  I use it for all my formed roofing (this stuff is especially useful if I plan to etch the material, as it is thick enough that after etching it retains good stiffnes and form/shape).



M

[ho henry]

Ray
 
     Can you purchase/locate a small sheet of 1/24th corrugated metal or do you have to make your own?

 Making a flat unit as Ray suggested is the best way to go.   Don't remember its name but michael's and Jo-Anne's fabrics both sell an ebosser unit you that place your stamp within with the sheet above and role it thru as the top presses downward thus ebossing your material I think it runs for about 40+$ but you can do it yourself by just placeing the material into 3 flat layers the blanc inbetween with a lot of weight onto it and leave it for a day or two.

 The reason that i'm asking is that if you could obtain two sheets in that size say 4" x 4" square then you already have the ability to replicate as many copies as you need or want by just securing one sheet in a mold box by the same dimensions.  Fill the bottom with a thin layer of sand and place the sheet onto it then carefully imbed the bottom u shapes into the sand making sure the seet is level, this way the sheet will not expand or distort.
 Now you can either fill the bottom u's very carefully with CA glue or some other kind of hardner.

likewise with the second sheet only filling the opposite rows

This way you can place the virgin sheets between the two and simply press the new sheet into being.

                   OR   making your own units from scratch

As far as finding different scales are concerned I would aproach the problem in the following manner,.
1st measure the distance between each scale that you plan to work with in inches ex HO scale being 1/8" = 1 foot or that of O scale = 1 foot or in your case that of 1/24 = 1 foot etc, this will give you the aproximate distance you will need in inches to cut the v or u shape crimping lines depth as needed for the bottom half.

2nd dealing with the opposite sheet 1st dupilicate the lines that you placed on the first sheet dealing with the distance only now you will have to recreate the v's or u's for the top sheat so it becomes the mate for the bottom sheet , again follow my original directions above.
And yes the thicker aluminum will work better as marc pointed out recreating your method.



Henry

[Ray Dunakin]

Using an existing sheet of 1/24th corrugated metal to create stamps for making my own, is a really good idea and I'd like to give it a try. But so far I haven't found a source for metal with the corrugation I'm looking for, which is somewhere between the O scale stuff, and what you'd get using a Fiskar paper crimper.

[mabloodhound]

Evergreen plastic offers a range of corrugated siding in spacings of .040, .060, .080, .100, .125.   
Google Evergreen Plastic for suppliers.

[Carlo]

Can someone point me to a chart which gives some typical prototype dimensions like period (spacing), amplitude (height), and sizes of sheets?
Was it different between Europe, Great Britain, and America?
Thanx, Carlo

[finescalerr]

Maybe this PDF will help. I think Marc originally found it. See if the link works; I'm just trying out this service.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/51536008/Home%20Made%20Corrugating%20Tool.pdf

Russ

[mabloodhound]

This is just one I have from 1899: www.apti.org/publications/Tech-Archive/E-E-Souther-Iron-Co-1899.pdf
I'm sure if you Google corrugated roofing you'll find dozens more.

[Ray Dunakin]

Dave, that's a great resource! Lots of interesting structural details there.