Feldbahnmodule with ship

[finescalerr]

Your ability to create superb components from metal always impresses me. -- Russ

[Stuart]

I don't know what it is about you European modelers.  Your work always seems to be a step above the rest.

Stuart

[fspg2]

@ Stuart
...is Chuck European? Are you and several of the model builders here also from Europe? 

Hello everyone,

on we go with the lower gate. Unlike the upper gate, it has a second hinge on each side!

Alter_Lagerschuppen_005 (fspg2)


The gate was scaled to the required size of 56.8 mm x 84.0 mm and printed out on white paper.
Cut out, it served to check the size on the model. The door pintles can be given their proper, prototypical positions later.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_363 (fspg2)


It's funny how small parts often take much more time than you'd think.
So the two-piece strap hinges for the lower gate were fitted with 0.5 mm and 0.6 mm holes and brought to the required length.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_364 (fspg2)


Alter_Lagerschuppen_365 (fspg2)


Alter_Lagerschuppen_366 (fspg2)


Next, I sawed individual boards (or rather, little boards) from 1.0 mm linden wood to the required widths on the Böhler circular saw using the rip fence.
As before, I stuck the wood strips produced this way onto the mirrored drawing with Gudy 870 adhesive film (that way, the inner boards could be glued on right away with tiny drops of white glue).

Alter_Lagerschuppen_362 (fspg2)


A bottom stop and a few red and blue markings served to align the inner counter-boards of the strap hinges correctly.
The diagonal support boards and the rounded top will follow later.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_367 (fspg2)


On the CNC mill, the corresponding holes for attaching the strap hinges were then drilled in a small Pertinax (phenolic laminate) jig.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_368 (fspg2)


Alter_Lagerschuppen_369 (fspg2)


During a trial assembly of the first strap hinge, it turned out that the 0.5 mm and 0.6 mm rivets were much easier to mount after I redrilled all the holes 0.1 mm larger.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_370 (fspg2)

[Bill Gill]

Very well done.
For a minute the torn paper at the top of the doors looked like you found some of the ragged Teflon window curtains from Chuck's recent post

[Bernhard]

Great job again. With photo 363, I had to look twice before I realized that was the model.

Bernhard

[finescalerr]

That door is as perfect as a miniature can get. Satisfactory. -- Russ

[fspg2]

The gate elements, which I had glued together with wood glue, got a first treatment with a gray stain and were stood upright to dry.
The next morning I saw this pile of boards - what had happened here?

Alter_Lagerschuppen_371 (fspg2)


A good friend immediately suspected that someone must have needed all the fittings and carriage bolts, and that they probably ended up at a scrap dealer... :shock:

The mistake was my own doing. I had glued all the wooden "boards" together with express wood glue. It held wonderfully until the parts were dipped into the water-soluble gray wood stain, and overnight the old glue joints simply came apart again in several places.

The repair was done with waterproof wood glue, which I applied in spots with a thin piece of wire. I pressed the parts together briefly with my fingers and immediately removed the slight squeeze-out in a few places with a scraper. Small clamps held everything together.

I was able to press the hinge straps and rivets (carriage bolts) back into the existing drill holes, so I got back to the desired state relatively quickly.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_372 (fspg2)


On the inside, M0.8 mm hex nuts will still be glued onto the visible ends of the rivets with a tiny drop of Loctite 648.

Beforehand, I reamed out the M0.8 mm hex nuts with a mini reamer, because a 0.8 mm thread simply doesn't fit onto a 0.8 mm wire :!:

Alter_Lagerschuppen_356 (fspg2)


Further treatments with heavily diluted glazes and pigments will follow, so that everything looks a little older and resembles the prototype more closely!

Alter_Lagerschuppen_006 (fspg2)

[Stuart]

Good save on the door!

Stuart

[finescalerr]

I once made the same mistake as Frithjof and an entire water tank base fell apart. Does that put me in the same category of excellence as Frithjof? -- ssuR

[Bill Gill]

Fritjof, Your recovery of the door worked very well.I don't see any evidence of the collapse.

[nk]

That is really wonderful detail work. I have to admit that I kinda like the door in its fallen-apart state.

In looking at your brick-work, it occurred to me that you could take your structure to the next level if you were to do some individual brick colours/details. You can do it pretty quickly with a half dozen oil-paint variations of brick colour. You apply the paint with a scumble and use solvent on a cotton bud or brush to adjust, and once dry, apply some dilute washes. People talk about doing this in a random pattern, but I find patterns in the laid brickwork, so there must be something that goes on in the way it is loaded and unloaded on the shipping palette. (and no one tell me that I should get a life!)

[Barney]

LEAVE HIS BRICKWORK ALONE and defiantly Go get a life
Barney

[fspg2]

Thank you all for your comments!

@nk
We'll see what I'll manage to get done and when, alongside my other 15 projects, within this thread...

In the Buntbahn forum, I received the following valid comment:

I have very often seen DIN 562 square nuts in places like this.

The old storage shed was probably built between 1895 and 1905.
•   Until about World War I, square nuts were common in blacksmith and carpentry work, as well as in hand-crafted fittings. They were easy to forge, could be tightened with a simple open-end wrench or pliers, and sat well against wood.
•   Hex nuts became established with industrial standardization, essentially from the 1920s/30s onward. For that reason, you often find both on the same gate when repairs or later additions were made.
•   Beneath the round head, the carriage bolt has a square neck that pulls into the wood. The nut on the inside is independent of that, usually with a washer, though on simple farm gates also without one. The threaded ends often protrude; in some cases they are cut off or riveted over.

I took my photos of the prototype storage shed in April 2009. Luckily, I met the owner of the building. He feared I might be from the building inspection authority, since the house did leave a rather poor impression in places.
When I then showed him a few pictures of my CAD design from back then and of the first milled brick wall panels for the model, he invited me to take some interior shots as well.

Unfortunately, I can't really tell from the phone pictures which type of nuts were used.
Apart from the fact that such model square nuts would have a width across flats of approx. 1.3 mm and the washers would be about 2.0 mm...

Square nut M0.6 mm + M0.8 mm (fspg2)


...and given that you couldn't really tell them apart from hex nuts on the model with the naked eye, here is my solution:
Most of the old gates were replaced after 1930, and new, industrially manufactured nuts were used at that time as well.
When I photographed them in 2009, the gates were already almost 80 years old and no longer very presentable.
My layout is set between 1955 and 1965, so I won't weather the gate replicas as heavily as they appear in my 2009 pictures.
Unlike the upper gate, the lower gate leaves have smaller carriage bolts, so I have now reamed out M0.6 mm nuts with a suitable reamer.

Alter_Lagerschuppen_374 (fspg2)


As mentioned before, after blackening them with AK METAL Burnishing - AK 159, I glued them onto the rivet shanks from the inside with Loctite 648.
The protruding pins were shortened with a cutting disc...

Alter_Lagerschuppen_375 (fspg2)


...and the now bare spots were re-blackened...

Alter_Lagerschuppen_376 (fspg2)


It's really unfair what you can see in a macro enlargement!
...and test-fitted:

Alter_Lagerschuppen_377 (fspg2)


Alter_Lagerschuppen_378 (fspg2)

[Krusty]

Speaking as someone who needs to get a life, I've been mildly intrigued that drawings of bolts for 1880s NZR wagons invariably specify hex bolts, yet most of the older bolts on wagons that managed to survive into preservation seem to have square bolts. Just what that proves I'm not altogether certain.

And while on the subject of nuts and bolts, back when a younger version of me worked on trade show exhibition stands, my great leader was most adamant that real professionals were always careful to get the sides of their nuts all nicely aligned and parallel to the edge of the structure. He was, of course, English....

[Bill Gill]

Krusty,
A related antecdote to your post about parallel alignment of the sides of nuts:
I have a neighbor who makes sure when he rotates his tires that each lug nut goes back on the same wheel stud it came off of.