Old Wagons

[lab-dad]

Great video!
Good thing my wagon ain't going anywhere now.
Thanks!
Mj

[greenie]

A 1/12th scale model of a Slatted cart, it's a Pony size to suit a smaller horse.

I Used the drawing that was published in " The Australasian Coachbuilder and Saddler", May 10, 1894 to make this model
 All the detail is shown on the working drawing from May10, 189 so just followed what was on the drawing.

Usual methods of construction, so nothing different to all the other Horse Drawn models I have made.

[Bill Gill]

All the usual OOOh's and AAAh's!
Kidding aside, another terrific cart.

[finescalerr]

Perfect. Superb. Unparalleled. -- Russ

[lab-dad]

Can you list what materials you use for the components?
Or is it mostly _________. 

Mj

[greenie]

Can you list what materials you use for the components?
Or is it mostly _________. 

Mj

This thread has 42 pages, so go have a real good look at pages 23 - 36 - and 38, there are photo's there showing the unpainted models, where you can clearly see what materials I have used.

The timber is Tasmanian Myrtle ( Nothofagus cunninghamii  ) the reason I use that timber is because it has virtually NO knot holes or pore holes in it, both of these WILL ruin the finished surface on a model  when painted.

Using something like Radiata Pine is asking for a shit finish, as the pore holes are way out of scale and the knot holes look hideous,
 so carefull selection of a very fine grained timber is a must.

I make virtually ALL the nuts and bolts, ocassionaly I might have to buy a store bought nut or bolt, but only very ocassionaly.
The small 12BA coachbolts are made from 2.4mm TOBIN BRONZE rods and the square nuts are made from 2mm square brass rod, then drilled and tapped to 12BA.

The axles are normally made from square KEYSTEEL, sometines I just have to make an axle from brass, as there might not be anything available to suit that particular shaped axle, think of a "cranked axle" here.

What looks like steel tyres, is actually steel turned from bits of mild steel hollow bar, when they have been turned to the correct internal and external sizes, I then stick them on top of an electric hotplate to turn them BLUE. Then I attack the surface that runs on the ground with 180 wet and dry to give just that surface of the tyre, the look as though it's been run on the ground.

All the smaller bits on the model that are meant to be steel, well I cheat a bit and make all those bits from brass, as they are going to be painted and nobody will ever know what's under that coat of jam, eh.

Wheels are started just like a Wheelwright would make a full sized wheel, I start with the centre bit called a nave/hub, add a brass axle box into it so the wheel can NEVER sieze onto the steel axle, then when it's the correct shape, I start on the spokes, then mill the holes for the spokes to be driven into the nave/hub. When I get the wheel to the spider stage, I then cheat a bit more and make the fellies as a one piece out of sheet Acrylic, of the approriate thickness. A bit unconventional, but it is only a model and when painted nobody can tell what it's made from, eh.

The way I paint my models is my choice, I use the type of paint that the old timers would have used - ENAMEL PAINT - bought from the local hardware store, it gives the model a finish as though you just 'shrank' a full sized vehicle.

The choice is yours to make, on what you use and how you do it.

If you want to get into this horse drawn stuff, then go buy one or two of the booklets by John Thompson, about making model horse drawn stuff. OK, it's written by a pommy, BUT, it does not matter whether your a yank, or a pommy, the way you make horse drawn vehicles is universally the same world wide.