Westlake Publishing Forums

Am I the only one unable to see Stuart's images? -- Russ

Bill

Here's some info I found on the internet some months ago.  I think it could be adapted to most any scale.  It may provide some helpful direction. 

Stuart

Thanks for your offer, Paul.
I have some armature wire that I scrounged from someplace.
My original plan was to make very fine eye pins out of it and glue those pins into predrilled holes in the posts. Then set the posts in the ground and string more of the wire through the eyes. It didn't go well.

However, I still have the wire and stuff to make more fence posts, so perhaps sometime I'll try again.

Another material that may work is amature wire, some is extremely fine. I MAY be able to get you some if you want. There was a bunch in a abandoned lab at work months ago...it might still be there. Let me know if you want to try it and I will take a look.

Thanks to you all - I received info from a Loco/model Painter Who said try coating the RailTek 3D with a plastic type glue
After separating them from the backing paper works well on plastic models when used with care and is comparable with RailTek products
Tried it on a test piece and "it worked" then sprayed the whole thing with the desired colour
Barney
You can learn so much from this forum Thanks again

Quote from: Bill Gill on October 12, 2025, 07:18:54 AMAlso, if you don't have "Pledge" or an equivalent alternate brand acrylic floor finish, I think artist's clear gloss acrylic medium , slightly thinned with water, will work as well.

A note of caution: I've gathered from other groups that 'Future', 'Pledge' etc are somewhat generic brand names, the exact nature of which can differ a lot between markets and over time. It can be tricky to be sure you are using the same material if you live in another country. Test pieces advised :-)

Barney,
 I don't know if this will help or just add to the uncertainty, but in case it helps:


The double row of staggered rivets that run throough the 3 and across the middle of the HO scale tender's side are Archer decals.
I brush a thin layer of "Pledge" floor acrylic onto the side awhere the rivet line would go.
Then I applied the decal while the "Pledge" was still wet. My hope was that doing that would
A. prevent air bubbles from being trappd under the decal, and
B. help the decal stick to the side.
(It did seem to do both)

When that was complertely dry I applied a second layer of "Pledge" over the decal and a little bit wider that the edges of the clear decal film. My hope was that would hide the edge of the film. That also appeared to work well. When that dried the side got a light spray of a clear, matte acrylic to remove the glossy stripe. That also worked. I can't see the edge of the decal even when a shallow angled light is shined at the side from any direction.

You have a different brand of decal, in a larger scale. I don't know how thick that clear carrier film is, so don't know if what I did will work for you, but maybe a test of this technique will show you.

Also, if you don't have "Pledge" or an equivalent alternate brand acrylic floor finish, I think artist's clear gloss acrylic medium , slightly thinned with water, will work as well.

Just received some RAILTEC 3D decals for rivets in 1/35th scale reading there application they say do not use
Micro Sol because its not compatible  but use HUMBROL DECALFIX checked out several Videos and all say can be applied on gloss or matt surface so tried it on plain plastic card but it don't will not stick  just slides of- So should I first paint the surface then apply the decal then apply another coat of paint on it to colour the rivets  or use some type of adhesive first on the plastic card-- tried it on a painted surface using MicroSol adhesion is great but of course it needs a top coat to cover the rivets   - Both MicroSol and Humbrol Decalfix do the same soften the decal so what's best - I also notice a film between the rivets - will the paint cover it ?

Or PUT IT ANOTHER WAY how should I go about applying these rivet decals to the model which is in plain white plastic card a step by step method for a first time idiot using decals is required please
Barney

Barney,
On one project I had good luck adding knots to wood using real knots.

Unfortunately I have no idea where they came from originally because I found the twigs in a street gutter. But the knots were small and easily removed from the surrounding twig. 

They were too big for HO scale but with a little shaving down around their edges they woked really well for an O scale model.

The fence posts are normally  small section pine or round pine dowel as in the model boat people type thing - I have tried using Bamboo sticks for knots in wood in the larger scales but it does not stain very well and does not like wood glue always ending up with Pine or Lime which is easy to get hold of from Model boat suppliers - not many suppliers in the UK for Kappler type wood and Mr T is not helping the import of American Model railroading for the UK + the appalling state of most postal services.
Different  modellers are used at Pendon but all keep to the strict standards  - real amazing stuff the buildings are embossed card very realistic brickwork.