The plans are in the 2008 January/February and the March/April Gazette. I also used the plans that Chuck Doan posted on his thread "Death Valley Monorail." I'm going to build two locos, one using the Fordson tractor and one with a free lance design.
Here's two photos of the wheels and frame for the Fordson loco.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
SWEEET! :o :o......so thrilled to see one of these getting built! Work looks beautiful as usual.
Marc
How cool is that!
Looking forward to see this project progressing.
Uh-oh. Gordon is at it again! -- Russ
What scale is this? THis will be better than looking at 3D models on the screen! Gordon, did you get the info I sent?
I recently got out to the OERM and photographed and measured the LA RY couplers they used:
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Chuck the model is 1:16 scale and thank you for the additional info. The plan you sent me showed 7" channel used for the frame. Northeastern Scale Models Inc. has 6" and 8" basswood channel and I went with the 8" channel . After I glued the two sides and the two ends together I sat it on two blocks and placed five pounds of weight were the engine sets and I got very little deflection. I can send you enough channel to do a frame if you would like to experiment for yourself. I don't have a Danbury Fordson so I will be scratch building the engine.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
QuoteI don't have a Danbury Fordson so I will be scratch building the engine.
It just gets better and better!
Chuck you should start yours, then you and Gordon can see who finishes first! ;D
-Marty
Gordon, I just guessed based on the photos-6" seemed a bit small and 7" looked good, but honestly who really knows? 8" should be fine. That frame design sounds good...mine stalled because the die cast Fordson weighs about a pound after the wheels are off. I was worried because this design requires the frame and outriggers to keep all that wt. balanced on the rail. I was mostly concerned with bumping it while moving and having it shatter.
Then Unc came out with the Modellers Annual and I was reminded of all the stuff I had to do to the last tractor...not up for it just yet.
Let me know if there is anything else I can send you, the 3D model i made can make excellent 2D plans in a snap.
That is a great looking brake wheel BTW! You might also consider a car...best info I have is that they couldnt push or pull more than one.
Nice!, The wheel is for the brake system?
Hi Lucas, the wheel screwed a brake shoe up against the single rail. Some units may also have had axle brakes as well. Braking was a big problem on the line.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 13, 2010, 03:25:03 PM
Braking was a big problem on the line.
Thanks Chuck! I can imagine how dangerous was a loaded train running down!!
I says to myself at the time, "That's a cool article and monorail train, but who would ever build the model?" Now I know. It's great that a researched article on an obscure subject will be put to good use. That will be a winner Gordon.
I also like you are going to make a freelance version. History/engineering/creativity/modeling combined.
Are you going to make a bit of track to display it on?
John
Nice to see someone is attempting this interesting subject. I look forward to your progress.
Quote from: Scratchman on May 12, 2010, 06:44:44 PM
The plans are in the January/February and the March/April Gazette.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Out of curiosity which year of the Gazette has the plans ?
regards,
Marc B
2008
Thanks guys for your comments.
Marc B.... The year of the Gazettes is 2008.
John.... I will build a stand to help with the building of the model and for a place to store it. I may do a small engine house type diorama if not that I will do a track section that slides in front of my 1:16 scale diorama. This diorama is in the 2007 or 2008? Narrow Gauge Annual and will act as a backdrop.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, if you have the patience, try and cobble together a whole diorama for the monorail. That would be a real show stopper (not to mention feature article). -- Russ
Thanks for the year.
I read somewhere, I believe it was in the Narrow Gauge & Industrial Review, about another monorail. This monorail was located in Ireland. One of the interesting thing was that it used a "full-size" steamlocomotive !
You can read more on the museum's website; http://www.lartiguemonorail.com/Index.htm (http://www.lartiguemonorail.com/Index.htm) and on wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lartigue_Monorail. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lartigue_Monorail.).
Some more reading material; http://www.dself.dsl.pipex.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/lartigue/lartigue.htm (http://www.dself.dsl.pipex.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/lartigue/lartigue.htm) and some pictures http://eiretrains.com/Photo_Gallery/L/Lisselton/A&Bindex.html (http://eiretrains.com/Photo_Gallery/L/Lisselton/A&Bindex.html)
regards,
Marc B
Thanks Marc for the great links.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
This photo shows most of the parts for the frame for the second loco. This loco has a coupler on both ends. with a sand box sitting above the couplers. The parts for the end of the coupler are missing along with the front and rear engine mounting assembly. The parts in the box are for the four journals. The frame is made from wood channel with brake parts above, coupler parts on the ends, and axle and wheel parts below.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
This man is a buildin' fool! The paint ain't even dry on the Dickson and he's already begun another project. Mercy! -- Russ
Gordon, I just love seeing how you build this stuff. Very inspirational.
Thanks for the "Exploded View"
Gordon
Can't believe you've started a new one. This really should be an interesting build. But then again everything you build is interesting.
Looking forward to seeing this come together
Jerry
Now that is cool!
Gordon, I hope to see more of how the engines come together.
Thanks for sharing.
-Marty
ah yes.. more magic! 8)
Philip
This one is even more unusual than your "classical" production, Gordon. Another interesting thread to follow.
Goodness in the time I need to decide which x-acto blade to use Gordon has a complete "kit" built and ready to assemble.
Very inspirational. This is indeed a good one to keep an eye on.
John
Thanks guys. Here's three photos of the two loco frames, #1 is painted and #2 is ready for paint. I'm still looking for a motor for loco #2, maybe Marty's Plymouth or a motor I have from a 1931 Ford Model A kit by Minicraft in 1:16 scale. The outriggers are kicking my ass, but that is part of the challenge. The locos are sitting on jigs I built out of scrap pieces of wood. I will do the outriggers before moving on to the motors.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Beautiful, elegant and inspiring.
MR
Very cool!
Construction problems seem to be moving from standard to insane. Why do I think Gordon will make the solutions seem simple? -- Russ
He is speeding up. First it was one loco at a time, now it is two loco's at a time. ::) ::)
What happens when he gets all the time in the world ??? ;D ;D
Jacq
Astounding work as always Gordon... really enjoying watching these come together.
Paul
Giving me ideas Gordon! Those outrigger/balance hoops are a pain to consider. I was going to make some kind of bending jig to get a match, but its easy to think about, harder to do.
Supposedly an early version was built using a truck. I think you could do just about anything for the freelanced version.
Thanks guys for your comments. I will continue with the SBS Later with the second loco.
Here's two photos of the outriggers on the first loco.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Very nice! I will be interested to see the descriptions when you get a chance. Thanks for the update! (oh, and clean that lens! ;D)
This project is just TOO cool and great fun to watch.
Thanks, Gordon. Wonderful job, as usual.
Very cool and interesting!
Ho-hum. How boring. Anybody could do that. -- ssuR
As expected another great job! This is really going to a good ride.
Jerry
When I built the frame I also built the top of the outrigger strap. This was extended down to the first bend below the frame. The top two boards on the decking assembly would later glue onto this assembly. All ten boards for the decking assembly are glued together so I had one solid piece. After the top of the outriggers are glued to the frame I glued on the decking assembly using the first jig that I built to keep the two assemblies true and level. At this point I added the rest of the outrigger parts and the bottom wheel assembly.
This first photo shows the simple jig I built to hold all the decking boards while I mark the center line for the rivets on the fount side of the decking . After the decking boards were painted I marked the location of the strap on the inside of the decking. I glued four stops on the jig that lines up the center mark. Using a straight edge I located the rivets. When locating the straps on the other side I used a 1/8" spacer to the stops. This gives me the location for the inside of the strap.
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This photo shows the jig that I use to hold the decking boards in the correct shape.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
This is really good stuff. Be sure to take careful notes about how you did everything and make sure they are very easy to understand. When this goes to press it will be a primer on how to fabricate tricky models. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on June 26, 2010, 12:51:32 AM
When this goes to press it will be a primer on how to fabricate tricky models. -- Russ
No kidding! Beautiful job (so far) and fascinating prototype ...
Cheers,
Dallas
I am getting alot of good ideas! Thanks!
Here's a photo of most of the parts for the outriggers and bottom wheel assemblies. These parts are for loco #2.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's three photos of my progress. The chain and sprockets are from Serv-O-Link Corp.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Un - [expletive deleted] - believable. -- Russ
If even Uncle goes superlative, how could we say what we think, Gordon?
Wonderful models.
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MR
Wow, great progress! Those look terrific, and I love the color scheme.
Can't wait to see those posed on some track!
Amazing work!
I know this forum is all about honest critique, so let me point out one thing:
The type fonts you have used make me a little nervous. I am a graphic-designer by trade and if I am not mistaken, you are using a Helvetica font for your signs. While there were plenty of sanserif fonts before, this font wasn't created until 1957. And I believe your monorail is a little older than that.
Gordon, if you have any original references I would be happy to help out to recreate the original font or find something more appropriate for the era.
Christian
Just unbelievable. Workmanship flawless!!
Jerry
Outstanding work as usual Gordon. I do have to agree with Christian though, the font used is too modern for the piece, plus the kerning is a little rough (really minor point but to experienced typesetters, it is irritating). Early sans-serif fonts such as Akzidenz Grotesk or Franklin Gothic would be more appropriate. As Christian suggests, if you have a photo of a/the original sign, we may be able to suggest a correct period font.
Paul
Thanks guys for your comments. I have had these dry transfers for many years and have been trying to use them up. They are named Gothic R.R. from Woodland Scenics. My loco hobby shop guy told me that a lot of these dry transfers are not available anymore. I never noticed any lettering on the prototype monorail locos. The Red X Mining Co. is not a real railroad. I have put this road name on four of my locos. #5 a three foot gauge class A Climax, #8 a three foot gauge work truck and #1 and #2 monorail locos. I see this font or something very close to it on a few of the trucks in the book 'Ford Trucks since 1905' by James K. Wagner. If I end up building some old wagons I will pay more attention to the font detail.
I am starting a small diorama for the two monorail locos. It is 2' x 4' with one track running into a small engine house. Quite a bit of work before I will be ready for the track.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's the other two Red X Mining Co. models
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
These three assembles are based on a 1922 G.M.C., Model 41B, 2-Ton Truck. The plans are in the Jan/Feb 1992 Gazette. The seat is not from the G.M.C. These parts are unpainted.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Outstanding. Very inspirational models -- especially the monorail. -- Russ
Alright! I knew you would be back to it! Very plausable.
Really nice assembly and construction there ... especially like those hood latches.
Bravo!
Dallas
That is just amazingly kool.................
Exceptional Gordon. Always great modeling.
Beautiful!
I have to chime in too-- absolutely delicious models! The blend of form, fit and function is very believable and comfortable. Nothing is overdone but they have a lot of texture. Thanks for sharing with us.
John
I still need to do the bottom of the engine and transmission. I added the gas tank, headlight, starting mechanism and painted all the parts.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I really like your "Red X Mining" color scheme.
Thanks guys for your comments. I got the under body finished and repainted some of the parts. Working on the Fordson power plant for loco #1 and the base for the repair shed diorama.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Fantastic work! That underbody detail looks so good, you'd swear it could run.
I love your style, Gordon!
It is always possible to spot a Birrell original from miles away.
And the monorail is a refreshingly original prototype. It must be quite staisfactory to have models of prototypes that possibly no other person in the world have modeled?
Regards, Haavard
Gordon, your fingernails are dirty. Have you been modeling? -- Russ
That looks great Gordon
Sorry if I have missed this but how is it powered?
Cheers
Jim
Wow, a masterpiece heart stopper show topper.
Looking forward to the Fordson! And the eventual diorama!
That thing (#2) would look great over a mirror!
beautiful work as always!
Thanks for sharing!
-Marty
The red accents tie everything together perfectly.
What an incredible, beautiful piece of work!!
Very inspiring, Gordon. A real masterpiece.
Gordon
Just excellent! Beautiful work as always. Can't wait to see the diorama.
Jerry
Very well done Gordon! Mr. Wright would be proud. The dio should be awesome! (so would a turntable!)
Thanks guys for your comments.
Russ, yes I have been modeling.
Jim, all of my models are static.
This is the first part of the Fordson power plant. The gas tank is all styrene and there are around 20 part. I will do a SBS tomorrow.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I just shake my head at the amount of modelling going on UNDERNEATH!!!!!
It's my birthday soon - do you think if I wish hard enough, I will get want I want - the ability to model to this standard?
Fordson gas tank has 20 parts .The core is made up from parts A,B,C and D. Glue the two A parts together. Center and glue the two B. parts one on top and one on the bottom of the two A. parts. Glue part C. around parts A. and B with a flush joint. I Sanded both ends on my disk sander for a good surface to glue the two end parts D. Trim and shape the D parts after the part has been added to the assembly.
Gas Tank part1
A. (2) styrene tube 1/2" x 2 1/8" long.
B. (2) styrene 040" x 1/2" x 2 1/8" long.
C. (1) styrene 010" x 2 1/8" x 2 5/8"
D. (2) styrene 020" x 5/8" x 1"
The outer parts are made up from parts E,F,G,H,I,J and K. Add part E. centered on the core with the joint opposite of part C. Add part F. over the joint on part E. Add the four bands around the tank parts G. and H.and the three bands part I. on top part of part F. Parts J. and K. makes up the two filler caps.
E. (1) styrene 015" x 2 1/4" 2 13/16"
F. (1) styrene 010" x 1/4" 2 1/4"
G. (2) styrene 010" x 030" x 2 5/8" (out-side bands)
H. (2) styrene 010" x 030" x 2 5/8" (in-side band)
I. ((3) styrene 010" x 030" x 2 1/16" (top bands) (these three bands are on top of part F. cut center band around the filler caps.)
J. (2) styrene 3/16" hole punch 020 thick (filler cap bottom)
K. (2) styrene 1/8" hex stock 060 thick. (filler cap top)
This part could also be used as a 1:87 scale truck tank 8' 6" wide x 4' 6" high x 18' 0" long.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Nice! Amazing how much goes into modeling a seemingly simple object such as a gas tank.
so simple................ :'(
Nice! Thanks for the explanation.
As Russ would say there he goes again.
Nice start Gordon thanks for the how to.
Jerry
Thanks guys . (I changed part K on the gas tank to a 2-56 brass hex bolt head)
Top of the Radiator part 2
Here's the S.B.S. for the top of the radiator. The core is made from parts A,B,C,D,E,F and G. Glue the two A. parts together. Center and glue on part B-C. Lay this assembly on a flat surface with the A. part down and mark a center line around the four sides using a 1/4" thick scrap piece of wood for the guide. I used my 10" disk sander to sand off the bottom section leaving the line on. Use the sander to true up the two ends leaving it 1 1/32" long. Add part D and true it up using the sander. I cut the E and F parts longer than needed and trim them to correct size after they were added to the assembly. After Part E has been added the core should fit onto the end of the gas tank. With the two parts together draw a line at the joint and add the two F. parts. This will leave the top of the gas tank and the top of the radiator at the same level. Glue on part G and after the glue has dried shape and round over the top edge.
A (2) styrene tube 1/2" x 1 1/32".
B (1) styrene 040" x 1/2" x 1".
C (1) styrene 040 x 040 x 1/2".
D (1) styrene 080" x 1 1/32" x 1 1/32".
E (1) styrene 015 x 1/32" x long enough to go around arts A,B,C and D.
F (2) styrene 015" x 31/32" x long enough to add the two layers on part E.
G (1) styrene 040" x 1/2 x 1 1/4"
For the detail add part H. over the the joint on top between the gas tank and radiator top. The two I. parts are added one on each side of part D. Mark a line 5/16" back from the front on the bottom for the back of the radiator flange. Cut part I. off at this line and place the water pipe connection part on this line at the center.
H (1) styrene 010" X 156" x 1 11/16"
I (2) styrene 020" x 100" 13/16"
I used a N scale wheel for the filler hole (the cap will be added later)
I used 030" styrene rod for gas tank support rod with a small piece of styrene 040" x 060 x 3/16" cut into a wedge shape and glue on at the ends of part H. with a Grandt line Nut Bolt casting # 128 for the ends of the support rod.
I used a piece of styrene 040" x 1/4" x 3/8" drill a 1/16" hole at the center for a 1/16" x 1/2" long pin for the the water pipe connection.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4152%2F5010055988_de932dc4fb_b.jpg&hash=4b0c2800247c185b2a5d89c646cc6cb391b075a5)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
First off THANKS for taking the time to show all this, I know it is time consuming!
Do you have a detailed plan your working from or are you measuring another model/photograph?
I am really looking forward to the transmission/axle assembly.
I have ideas how I would do it, wondering and waiting to see how the "master" accomplishes it!
Thanks again!
-Marty
I just have to laugh!...it's just nonstop scratchbuilding and ingenuity.
As always, great stuff and a joy to watch.
Marc
Thanks, Marc.
Marty, I have a 1:48 scale kit from Bill Roy and there's a small plan but it is too small to get much from it. There are a lot of photos on the internet that helps. But most of my information is from chucks thread on the death valley monorail and his fabulous Fordson tractor project in the 2009 Modelers Annual. I will have to do two version of the transmission/axle the more normal way and one with the extra gear boxes on the sides for the monorail loco. There's no way I am going to get even close to that Danbury Mint casting.
I'm going to try to do four tractors one for the monorail loco, one for the Fundom universal shovel and two others.
Chuck a turn table is a good idea. Was there a prototype out there? My diorama is 24" wide x 49" long with the shed around 20" long that's enough room for two loco in the shed two locos on the lead track and one loco on the back track. A turn table only diorama with a turntable long enough for loco and a car would be sweet.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
I love your project here and admire your fortitude, four tractors at once, that's a big bite even for a professional.
Your SBS photos and descriptions are terrific, but how can you be so organized? :D
Those SBS's are so perfect I'm telling you now, in front of everybody, I'm gonna copy them! :D ;D
Thanks for sharing your knowdledge and ability.
Rick
Gordon, you young scalawag, you are an amazing asset to the entire world. Just thought you should know. -- Russ
Gordon
You are such an asset to this forum. Your projects from start to finish are truly amazing.
You are like a one man forum. Thanks for all the sharing you do.
Jerry
I have never heard of a picture of a turntable, but many speculate that there had to be one or more. THe Fordson reverse gearing would be too slow for an entire trip, unless they modified it. I think there is a patent application-I'll see if I can find it.
Thanks guys for your enthusiasm.The Radiator, Glue-together two A parts for the top flange and two for the bottom flange.(I'm looking for the right size nut-bolt casting for the nut-bolt on this part). Add the mesh Part C one on each side of part B and sand to the correct size. Glue the two E parts together and add to the in-side of Part D. Add one D part to each side of the B-C part and add the top and bottom flanges. Add parts F,G,Hand I. (note the thickness of the wood core part B would be better if the thickness was a little thicker 5/32" or 3/16". The size of the spacer part E would need to be adjusted also)
Radiator part 3
A (4) styrene 020" x 3/8" x 1 1/4" long (looking for the right size of nut-bolt casting)
B (1) wood 125" x 1 1/16" x 1 3/16" ( look at note)
C (2) brass mesh 1 1/16" x 1 3/16"
D (2) 5/16" styrene channel 1 3/16" long
E (2) styrene 020" x 060 x 1 3/16" + 060" styrene angle 1 3/16" long
F (2) 060" styrene half-round 1 3/16" long
G (2) 060" styrene half-round (around) 1" long (cut to fit)
H (1) styrene 080" x 1/4" x 1 1/8" long (add to the bottom of the bottom flange after taper or round over the sides)
I (2) styrene 030" x 1/4" x 1 5/32" long (shape using a 1 1/2" diameter circle)
J (2) 100" styrene half round 1 3/16" long
K (48) nut heads and nut-bolt heads (? for now)
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon --
Mostly following along silently, but I'll throw in an audible "oooooh" and "ah" here ... ;D
Enjoying your fabulous construction and appreciate the effort you're putting into the descriptive posts.
Cheers,
Dallas
YEA!
Keep going!
Very informative and enjoyable to watch over your shoulder.
If I can be of assistance on the axle housing (lathe turning or whatever) please let me know.
-Marty
Those are actual photos from inside Gordon's brain. The clear, organized layout of well thought-out parts and assemblies is the result of the special wiring he was gifted with.
Thanks for sharing your work. It is inspirational to see the progress from the styrene shapes we all can buy to a complete and unique model.
John
Super impressive work!
8)
Thanks guys for your comments and support.
Core for the Transmission Part 4
Glue parts B on the ends of part A. On draft paper draw a simple plane for the side view. draw a rectangle 1" x 2 5/8". Locate the center location for the 1 1/16" diameter circle up in the upper left hand corner of the rectangle up 11/16" from the bottom and 7/16" over from the left side and draw the circle. Set the A.-B. part on the drawing and cut the wood part C,D,E,F into the circle. The bottom of the circle will set on top of part G. Using the above lay-out cut the circle in part I. and add part K. and H. I cut all the wood parts longer than needed and trimmed them all after the assemble was all together.to finish this up add parts J. over the top of part B. ( note that more parts will be added to the top, bottom and the two sides.
A (1) ABS pipe around 1 1/16" OD 1/2" long.
B (2) styrene disk 1 1/16" OD 020" thick.
C (1) wood 1/2" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
D (1) wood 1/4" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
E (1) wood 1/8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
F (1) wood 1/8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
G (1) wood 1/16" x 1/2" x 2 3/8" long
H (1) wood 1/16" x 1/2" x 1/4" long
I (2) styrene 020" x 1" x 2 5/16"
J (2) styrene disk 1 1/8" OD x 020" thick (add (7) nut-bolt casting Grandt line # 128)
K (1) styrene 020" x 1/4" x 1/2" long
Transmission End Cap-Hitch Part 5
Add this part to part K on part 4.
A (1) Styrene 080" x 080" x 7/16"
B (2) styrene 030" x 3/8" x 7/16" (add (4) nut-bolt casting Grandt Line # 128)
C (1) styrene 060 x 3/16" x 7/16" ( cut a small notch at the back)
D (2) styrene 020" x 100" x 3/16 (shape to a small triangle)
E (1) styrene 060 x 1/8" x 5/8" (drill five 1/16" holes)
F (1) 1/4" styrene hole punch 040" thick (cut in half and add to the assemble)
Monorail Gear Box Part 6
There are two of these parts one on each side. The list is only for one part.
A (3) ring/flanges 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID (Plastruct # RI 12) ( stack the three around part B.) (sand flat on on one side and add part C keeping the assembly centered.
B (1) styrene tube 3/8" OD X 9/32" long
C (1) styrene tube 7/16" OD x 9/32" long
D (1) styrene 010" x 9/32" x long enough to go around part A. and B. I added a short piece to go over the joint)
E (1) styrene 020" x 1 1/16" x 5/8" (glue to the A.,B.,C.,D. part and sand to shape)
F (1) 1/4" hole punch 010" thick / with (4) nut-bolt castings Grandt line # 127
G (7) nut-bolt washer casting Grandt Line # 23
H (1) washer 5/16" OD 1/8" ID
I (1) aluminum tube 1/8 x 3/8" long
J (1) aluminum rod 3/32" x 1/2" long / with small washer 1/4" OD 3/32" ID
K (1) styrene disk 5/8" OD x 020" thick (drill a 3/32" hole in the center.) (add (8) nut-bolt washer Grandt line # 23)
m (1) 20 tooth sprocket (Serv-O-Link # S-202) (cut off the longer hob and sand flush)
Mounting Bracket
L (1) styrene 030" x 3/16" x 1" long (add (4) nut-bolt casting Grandt line # 128)
M (2) styrene 13/16" x 13/16" (add (12) nut-bolt casting Grandt Line # 128) (shape)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Quote from: Scratchman on September 21, 2010, 07:54:50 PM
<snip> A turn table only diorama with a turntable long enough for loco and a car <snip>
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Why would the turntable need to accomodate a car?....I thought the cars were couple-able from either end, so why would they need to be turned around? would it nt be easy to do a wye at the end of the line?...one fork with a turntable, and the other to push the uncoupled cars onto while the loco was being turned and then returned to a place before the wye so the cars could be recoupled?
Marc
From a contemporary revue of the Lartigue Railway in Kerry - "The switching is done by eccentric turntables fitted with a curved portion of the rail" - they don't mention turning the carriages at all. Taken from a lengthy account of the line here - http://irishwaterwayshistory.com/about/miscellaneous-articles/the-lartigue-monorail-in-listowel/
Fascinating and very in-depth explanation of the current recreation of a portion of the original.
Thanks for that link, Ian.
So far, I have not found any photos of a turntable at all, just a patent granted to Thomas Wright. I assume there were turntables at each end, as they would be easy to construct.
Some photos show cars with one brake wheel and the words "front" and "rear" painted on the ends. I think this is because Wright's drag brake only worked in one direction, the same way a trolley pole can only be pulled, not pushed. The locos also show only one brake wheel, indicating a need to be turned.
Most photos show a loco pulling one car. So I think they would likely turn the whole "train" so all of the drag brakes could be used, at least early on.
Other photos show cars with two brake wheels, maybe indicating that they were later modified to be able to travel in either direction, so they wouldn't need to be turned.
Here's a good photo of the bottom of the radiator. This is a great help for one of the harder parts to model on this tractor.
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My modeling is going a little slower this week with a colonoscopy on Wednesday and surgery on my umbilical hernia today. Everything turn out good.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
To finish up part 4, the Transmission core, I needed to add sides on the main casting. If I was only building one tractor I probably would have tried a truer profile, instead I went with something a little easier.
Here's a photo of the fixture that I used to cut the pipe into a wedge shape. For a better fixture I would have made the base 1/4" thick instead of the thicker one, and a piece to hold down the pipe from coming up when cutting. I will finish up this part when I can get back in to my shop.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, I'm glad to hear that everything turned out ok and I wish you a speedy recovery. I may be facing the same type of surgery myself in the not too distant future.
Gordon,
Glad to hear all went well with your proceedures, and glad to see you back modeling.
Ray...best wishes with your proceedure.
Marc
Thanks, guys it's good to have that all over with, and good luck with yours Ray.
Transmission core parts. part 4a
To finish up the transmission core I started with the two side Cut on table saw with the fixture and I squared up the ends on the disk sander.
A (2) plastic pipe around 1 1/16" OD (cut to fit )
B (1) aluminum rod 3/32" x 2 3/4"- 3 1/2" long
C (2) Plastruct lamp shade # LF-10
D (2) styrene tube 1/4" x 3/8" long
E (1) wood 1/16" x 1/2" x 2 5/16" long
F (2) styrene disk 010" x 5/16" diameter These parts are for the two control lever
G () Grandt Line nut-bolts # 128
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Quote from: Scratchman on October 22, 2010, 07:34:09 PM
Here's a good photo of the bottom of the radiator. This is a great help for one of the harder parts to model on this tractor.
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My modeling is going a little slower this week with a colonoscopy on Wednesday and surgery on my umbilical hernia today. Everything turn out good.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, I know I'm not the best mechanic in the world but I don't see a radiator in this picture?? Is it the place where the radiator should be mounted?
I just probably missed part of the conversation somewhere. ;)
The radiator would be mounted on the bolt holes below and before the fan. The bottom of the unit you see would mount onto the front axle. Unit. It also shows the starter handle attachment really well.
Stunning build so far Gordon, have been following the build closely and find it very interesting. I am working on a 7/8ths scale series of Fordson powered two foot gauge critters and that is a seperate post once I have more tests completed.
Great styrene workmanship and modeling.
cheers Ferd
Engine block core part 5
I use wood on some of these core parts because I can't buy styrene in some of these larger dimensions. In styrene the largest size I have available is 1/4" x 1/4". A large amount of this wood will be covered up with other detail. I do use a thin CA glue to help cover up the wood grain on metal parts. If I was modeling in a smaller scale the wood parts could be replaced with Styrene. Wood can be shaped easier than styrene but if you need a clean hole drilled styrene is the best.
A (2) styrene disk 030" 1 11/32" diameter
B (2) styrene 030" x 1 1/4" x 1 11/16"
C (2) styrene disk 030" x 1 3/16" diameter
D (1) wood 3/8" x 27/32" x 1 19/32" (round off the front and two sides)
E (1) wood 1/4" x 1/8" x 5/8"
F (1) wood 1/2" x 3/8" x 1 9/16" (1) wood 1/2" x 1/16" 1 9/16" (1) wood 1/2" x 1/4" x 1 9/16"
G (2) wood 1/32" x 11/16" x 1 9/16"
H (2) wood 1/8" x 3/8" x 1 9/16"
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Just found the thread...I have enjoyed seeing your work published, Gordon, and seeing it step by step makes it all the more impressive. Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
Top of engine part 6
These six parts are added to part 5.
A (1) styrene 1/8" x 5/8" x 1 9/16"
B (1) styrene 1/8" x 5/8" x 1 9/16" (on parts A and B I use two 1/4" and one 1/8" glued together for the 5/8" measurement)
C (1) styrene 005" x 5/8" x 1 9/16" (this part is the head gasket and I cut it just a bit larger so it will over-hang on the two sides)
D (1) styrene 1/8" x 3/16" x 1 9/16" (shape and add to the top of part B)
E (1) wood 1/8" x 1/4" x 1" (shape and add to the left side of part 5)
F (1) styrene disk 040" x 3/4" diameter ( Shape and add to the front of part 5)
Drill 1/16" holes for the spark plugs. Find the center and go 1/4" each way and 1/2" each way and come in 5/32" from the right side.
Rear gas tank support-dash part 7
I first added the base part B to the top of part 4.
A (1) styrene 020" x 13/16" x 1 1/4" (the bottom cut has 1/2" left on the bottom up 3/8" and at the top I use the gas tank part 1 as the pattern with the bottom 3/16" down from the top)
B (1) styrene 040" x 1/2" x 13/16"
C (1) styrene 1/4" square tube x 3/8" long
D (1) styrene 030 x 1/4" x 3/8" long (add to the top of part C)
E (2 each) styrene 030" x 100" x 100" (add to the top two corners on the out side face of part A) (2 each) styrene 020" x 100" x 1 1/4" (add to the sides of part A starting at the bottom and trimming the extra at the top) ( 2 each) styrene 020" x 100" x 1/4" (add to the top of part A and trim off to correct size) (2 each) styrene 030" x 030" x 1/2" long (add to inside 3/8" down from the top)
F (2 each) styrene 100" x 100" x 3/8" ( drill 1/16" hole at the center) (2 each) 100" quarter-round x 3/8" long (2 each) styrene 020" x 1/2" x 3/8" long (shape) (add these parts to the side of part C,D)
G (1) 7/32" styrene tube x 9/16" long (bevel at around 45 degrees (1) 1/8" styrene tube x 1/2" long (1) 3/32" aluminum tube x 1" long (1) 1/16" aluminum tube x 7/8" long (add these parts to part A)
H (1) 7/8 inch scale brake wheel casting from Ozark Miniatures.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, your scratchbuilding procedures are a joy to behold and your S-B-S's are a wealth of information.
The way to break down and reproduce simple shapes and assemble them into recognizable objects
is simply amazing. You make it look so easy...............
Thanks for sharing this project.
Parts between the front of the engine and the radiator part 7.
A (1 each) styrene 1/4" x 1/4" x 040" - 1/4" x 1/8" x 060" - 1/4" x 1/2" x 040"
B (1 each) styrene 1/4" x 1/2" x 100" - 1/4" x 1/4" x 100" - 1/4" x 1/4" x 040"
C (2) 1/4" x 3/8" x 060"
D (2) 1/4" x 1/2" x 040"
E (2) 1/4" x 1/4" x 040"
F (1) 1/4" x 1/4" x 040" (drill 1/16 hole)
I drilled a 1/16" hole in the front of the engine for the starter shaft.
The shaft is 1/16" brass tube with the belt-pulley made out of 1/32" tube 3/16" long and 5/32" tube 1/8" long
The fan was built up with (1) 1/4" diameter 020" thick hole punch for the center. (4) styrene 020" x 156" x 3/8" long for the blades.
On the back of the fan assemble I used (2) 1/4" diameter 030" thick hole punch for the belt-pulley.
The fan belt is made out of fishing line.
I used a piece of Milliput and hand carved it for the bottom water line.
I laminated three pieces of styrene for the upper water line.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
For part 7 I needed a jig to help line up part 7 with the radiator and engine front.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Geez, Gordon, your jigs are better than most of our models....
Beautiful craftsmanship, engineering and artistry.
Don't encourage him. He'll do even better! -- Russ
Here's three photos of the Fordson monorail loco, and one photo of both locos
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I will get back to the last parts on the tractor.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Superb Gordon, Just superb.
Wonderful looking locomotives Gordon, love the color scheme.
What are you guys doing awake at this hour?
Satisfactory work, Gordon. I was wondering when you would resume work on the monorail.
Russ
Spectacular! I just might get back to mine now that I see how good it will look. Can't wait to see it on the track!
.....sweet.......
...BEAUTIFUL....
Jerry
Right side of engine part 8
Parts A-E on the right side of photo
A (1) styrene 020" x 3/16" x 1 13/16" (1) styrene 010" x 100" x 1 1/4" (4) styrene 040" 3/16" hole punch (5) NB castings Grandt-Line #128 Add parts to engine block
B (1) styrene 1/8" x 3/16" x 1 3/8" (2) styrene 1/8" x 3/16" x 1/8" join together and shape add to the hole punch from part A
( the top hat looking thing is out of place on the photo) (1) 1/8" styrene tube1/4" long (1) styrene 020" 3/16" hole punch (1) brass tube 1/16" x 1/2" long add to the bottom of part B
C (1) Styrene 1/8" x 1/8" x 9/16" (2) styrene 1/8" x 1/8" x 1/4" join together and shape add to the top of part B
D (1) styrene 080" x 3/16" 5/16"long (1) styrene 040" x 1/4" x 5/16" long (2) styrene 020" x 080" x 5/16" long (4) NB castings Grandt-Line # 128 join together and add to part B
E (1) styrene 1/8" x 3/16" x 1/4" long with (4) styrene nut head 030" x 030" 1/32" long add to the top and drill hole for the gas line (2) styrene 020" x 060" x 3/16" long (1) styrene rod o40" x 1/4" long join together and between parts A and B
Parts A-E
A (1) wood 3/8" x 3/8" x 7/8" shape
B (1) wood 3/8" x 9/16" x 3/16" shape
C (1) styrene 010" x 7/16" x 5/8" (this is the gasket and goes between parts A and B
D (2) NBW castings Ozark Miniatures # cut off bolt add to part B
E (1) styrene 020" x 1/8" x 5/16" long with (2) NBW castings Grandt-Line # 23
Parts F-K
F (1) styrene tube 3/32" 1 1/8" long shape
G (2) Aluminum tube 1/8" x 1/16" long Add to part F
H (1) styrene 1/8" square tube x 3/8" long with a 040 brass pin going into part F (1) styrene rod 1/16" x 1/4" long ( add to the side a styrene lever 020" x 060" x 3/16" long
I-J (1ea) are made up out of brass tubing
K (1) gas line made up from brass wire and tubing and brass nut (2) 0-90 (1) 0-80
Part L
(1) wood 1/4" x 1/2" x 5/16"
(1) wood 1/4" x 1/2" x 3/32"
(1) styrene 010" x 5/16" x 9/16"
(2) styrene tabs with NB casting
Part M
(1) wood 1/4" x 1/2" x 5/16"
(1) styrene 010" x 100" around four sides
The Clutch was bent up out of aluminum or brass tubing
The power take off is a clean out cover from Ozark Miniatures
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5227%2F5598560118_24c64d8fed_b.jpg&hash=0bdcd3d99079777c855ffbd564bc7195077d0040)
Gordon Birrell http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's two photos of the third Fordson a freelance 3 foot gauge work truck.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5147%2F5598560562_4165109527_b.jpg&hash=c66b93dda59483d805f76b11fda069e25282f134)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5269%2F5597979791_d7a3f301b7_b.jpg&hash=26107a60eb890c873b51ca7d85d4f69b40f0ff0b)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Fantastic. A joy to watch.
Jacq
Jacq says it all. That model has real charisma. -- Russ
...now THAT's clever.
Your builds are always an inspiratiokn and they're a whole lot of fun to look at.
Thanks for posting, Gordon
Wow! Great work as usual Gordon. Not only really well executed, but it has great "presence."
Am I correct your peeling paint is done with a resist layer under the paint? Like rubber cement?
Truly Inspiring, Gordon, as always.
Thanks for that
Alex
Beautiful, and a very nifty design!
Wonderful. And a very interesting shot of the material, which tells us a lot about the well organized man you are.
Awesome work! Gordon, thanks for bringing it to us. It's no wonder the word inspiring keeps cropping up.
Quote from: Scratchman on March 02, 2011, 06:23:54 PM(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5291%2F5493400150_0c0db8bf82_b.jpg&hash=480a42c5aed54a006364339ed77e0752ade4c00c)
Wow! Awesome work. Would the area on the wood where the driver constantly gets on and off be worn a bit more than the rest of the wood?
-
Thanks guys for your comments. I have been a little slow getting back to this thread
Eric...The peeling paint is a resist method. I use Incredible White Mask Liquid Frisket.
Jester... You are right about the wear on the side boards. If I do an other monorail model I will keep that in mine.
Here are four photos of my forth Fordson project. The basic measurements are from a Fordson truck kit from Bill Roy that I got from Marty Jones. The truck is still missing a link in the steering. Both the Rail truck and the water truck need to have the brake detail added. The water tank is four feet in diameter and 8'2" long.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3038%2F5838251588_cd923c3bfd_b.jpg&hash=4d55a795dc60845a18883e2b7a2babac05018cd5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5027%2F5837700163_dabc048a66_b.jpg&hash=f4e47e35c2165b2463ef6073ba6e01bf37e43a3d)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3617%2F5837700023_2c8336e4cd_b.jpg&hash=f2810fd79a72e82fb37ca4810b17b331f7c46ddf)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2735%2F5837699879_4a721fc0bd_b.jpg&hash=ddac777ea635f9c8544228c7a301a604d8ace52b)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That is great Gordon! How many of those Fordson's did you make? I like that paint scheme a lot.
Thanks Chuck, here's a photo with all four of the Fordson projects.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5070%2F5839722634_5db130bce1_b.jpg&hash=1e929136e99363c3585694bb4a1fccb9cbff3bd5)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon like Chuck I love that paint job, beautiful work.
Jerry
Beautiful!!
The Red X Mining company must have bought Fordsons in bulk. :)
Gordon, you rascal! You've been building Fordson models and keeping them secret! Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Each a masterpiece.
Wonderful meeting, Gordon. Could be displayed in NYC, I think.
Gordon,
wonderful work, fantastic aging and beautiful images of your miniaturization of reality! :) I like it much!
Here (http://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.drehscheibe-foren.de%2Fforen%2Fread.php%3F17%2C5434051) is a different kind of monorail, maybe one of you wants to rebuild the vehicle on a smaller scale.
Frithjof
Thanks guys for your comments, and thanks Frithjof for that great link.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Quote from: fspg2 on June 22, 2011, 08:42:15 AM
Here (http://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.drehscheibe-foren.de%2Fforen%2Fread.php%3F17%2C5434051) is a different kind of monorail, ...
... waaaay coool ... 8)
You didn't show that on a german forum before, IIRC ...?
Interesting to see that the monorail was made in England. Here is another link to what Road Machines (Drayton) built -
http://railmachinesltd.webs.com/thesteammonotrain.htm
http://www.irsociety.co.uk/Archives/16/Monorail.htm
Used internationally at over 800 sites and now forgotten.
Thanks for the link!
A Road Machines system is preserved at Amberley -
http://www.amberleynarrowgauge.co.uk/monorail-project.htm
Davej and Ian,
thanks you for the links!
I think it's great that there are people who restore these witnesses and preserved it for posterity. Lots of them unfortunately are becoming increasingly rare.
There are so many beautiful projects that would be great to become miniaturized. Only our time has finally. :(
Here are same more links for monorail-pictures (http://www.google.com/images?q=old+monorail+Lartigue_Monorail&hl=de&biw=1672&bih=975&tbm=isch&ei=8tsCTpv0OMvLswb5laHrCg&sa=N&start=0&ndsp=21) und videos (https://encrypted.google.com/search?hl=de&ndsp=21&tbm=vid&sa=X&ei=QN4CTv2-G4fDswbj1rTqDQ&ved=0CCoQBSgA&q=old+monorail+Lartigue+Monorail&spell=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1672&bih=975&emsg=NCSR&noj=1&ei=QN4CTv2-G4fDswbj1rTqDQ).
Frithjof
... and last but least the more modern (but less charming) monorails being ued in some german vineyards *click* (http://www.lemmerhome.com/typo3temp/pics/5c89a52dca.jpg) .... *click* (http://foto.wkleff.de/html/popup/Digi.php?B_ID=S904136&T_ID=LA)
@Frithjof
Didn't you post a picture about a vineyard monorail somewhere too ...?
Gerald,
Did you mean this picture?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi203.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa38%2Ffspg%2FSonstiges%2FWeinberg_Mosel.jpg%3Ft%3D1271017050&hash=735ef4613c404d6cbce6017bb735613a3f40e4df)
it´s taken at river Mosel in the near of Cochem/Germany (http://www.cochem.de/tourismus/en/index.php)
I found something about model monorail (http://www.monorails.org/tmspages/HorovitzModel.html)
and here: monorails in history (http://www.monorails.org/tMspages/History.html)
@Gordon: Sorry, I hope that I will not hereby too watered down your thread to much.
Frithjof
Here's three photos of the trucks on my diorama.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5078%2F5892189886_7d4afc1d24_b.jpg&hash=17d0d4cf4e58e86566807ed87aefd659bd9b4624)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5036%2F5892189600_a7eaf5c836_b.jpg&hash=22b13abe84ea964787dcf480e7ab47a046a59857)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5272%2F5891622629_59c0521544_b.jpg&hash=6f53f8d686cb40da8d17f0919014ec39d34a363a)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
It's a lot easier to see the trucks in the color image. -- Russ
Gordon,
Your photos look a little dark on my screen - is it just me? Can you lighten them a touch? Excellent work as always! I love the GMC loco, looks fantastic.
Scott
Russ, I have posted some good color shots of these trucks. You know how I love my sepia shots.
Scott, are all my photos showing up dark to you or just the last three? I set up this photo shoot late in the day inside my west facing garage hoping to get some shots with the sun coming in at a low angle, so after I had got the diorama set up and dusted off the model trucks taken out to the garage I set up the camera and one of the legs on my tripod broke off. By the time I got done messing around trying to fix it the good light was gone, so I went ahead and shot the photos without the tripod. Most of the photos were not very good, but I thought these three were good enough to finish up this thread so that I could move on to my next project.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I just took a look at the colour photo in CS3 and the levels could be tweaked to brighten it up a little. But a really nice shot of the finished diorama anyway. Maybe next time the sun is shining?