What kind of paint do you use to get the color of steel like on the chuck of this drill press?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.owwm.com%2Fphotoindex%2Fimages%2F9380-D.jpg&hash=6244f7cbde6fadfaa4bb9e6d84bfcc7f78b91bdb)
If it was available in Europe, it would be even better... ;D
have you tried the "blackening" chemical then polishing it?
I can try and post a pic if you need.
-Marty
They may not have it in Europe (although a Polish paper modeler had some) but the paint you want is Testors Metallizer paint. It comes in various metallic shades. You spray it on, let it dry, buff it to a sheen, and then spray on a clear coat, also by Testors. The results are excellent.
Russ
Humbrol has similar products, paint it on and buff with a soft cloth/tissue, exact as Russ describes.
Testors is availabel in Europe.. Vallejo has a steel paint too.
Jacq
Maybe you could give it a try with a pencil like I did on the door handles of my engine shed in 1:45. Just rub it over the precoloured object.
Harald
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hgue.de%2Fbilder%2Flokschuppen%2Ftor4s.jpg&hash=8ab483869139330c7b01d8630aac01e10a70ea25)
Here is a closer look.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hgue.de%2Fbilder%2Flokschuppen%2Ftor3.jpg&hash=29a52cd7c6a92a079ab9c399b562a76556a00912)
Effective yet simple. -- Russ
I've used Testors metalizers and they do work, but I've found the clear sealer changes the effect. So if you like the way it looks and won't be handling the part, I would not clear coat it. The paint is a little powdery and will rub off with handling.
I've had good luck with the Humbrol metalcote too.
I have some of the Alclad II airbrush finishes, but haven't tried them.
http://www.alclad2.com/alclad-home.html
Tom
Hi Frederic,
There are a couple of other ways that I have seen with good success. The first is to paint the whole part in various greys using no metallic paint at all. The metallic paint is then dry-brushed on for the reflected highlight (much like Harald's pencil lead). The other (which I have not tried yet) is to use the color smoke by Tamiya and put a couple of coats over the bare polished metal. I have seen some good results on some 54mm knights with all of their armour. Let me know what you come up with. Sean
Thank you for the various answers, everyone.
One of the methods suggested by Humbrol/Revell to obtain a metal color is to add some aluminium cote to any of their colors. I may try this one. I'll also try the pencil method (I suppose it is a matter of coating the painting part with graphite : very convincing on the posted shot).
And Vallejo has indeed some new metallic paints. I may pass an order for this too. I've found a supplier in the UK that stocks some.
I'll post pictures of the results as soon as I can.
Some good ideas...Harald, I sure wouldn't mind seeing some more pics!
Frederic:
If you first paint the object black or very dark grey, then brush a coat or two of Neolube over it, let it dry, then buff with a soft cloth, it will look like rubbed steel. Basically the same principle as suggested by Harald. Neolube is a micro-fine grain graphite in an isopropanol solution. The alcohol evaporates almost immediately leaving a smooth and fine graphite film on the surface.
Paul
Hi Frederic
I get great results using a simple 7B lead pencil on small parts.
the neolube is wonderful for lager parts where the entire unit can be dealt with in on hit.
however the very soft 7B pencil is unbeatable for anything small or surrounded by parts that you don't want to treat.
simply rub the pencil in the "metal" part wait a couple of minutes and buff it with a finger tip or cotton bud. Finger works better for some unknown reason [yes guys I a waiting for the remarks]
have fun
Bernard
Quote from: Chuck Doan on April 07, 2010, 07:53:41 AM
Some good ideas...Harald, I sure wouldn't mind seeing some more pics!
Chuck,
I'm not sure whether I should show my work here among all those masters :-\ but I will open a new thread to not hijack this one.
Harald
Thanks for the additionnal advice, everyone.
I think having neolube cross the ocean would cost a few thousand euros with all the safety constraints now in use. It was the estimated cost Bill Peters had given me a few years ago to send me some of PBL acrylic paint... (Well, I may exaggerate a little, especially since there was no euro then).
I used diluted Humbrol aluminium paint, polished it with a piece of Canson drawing paper and then rubbed the metal parts with a pencil. On these very small parts, it's not very visible, but I think the general appearance of the drill press is reasonable.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fdata%2FFrederic%2520Testard%2F20104819657_daveCorner158.jpg&hash=25081d707e36ccc30b51cccd4b72861088c63dc9)
It will be part of the completely scratchbuilt equipment of this boat repair workshop, which is part of an O scale diorama I'm building to offer to Troels Kirk (inspired by Dave Revelia awesome 'Boat repair diorama' featured in the 2004 Logging, Mining & Industrial Annual of Finescale Railroader.
You could easily make your own version of Neolube. Sand a graphite pencil or better yet an artist's graphite stick to get powdered graphite then mix it with some alcohol. You can apply it with a tooth pick.
Garry
Thank you, Gary. I'll try this which seems quite easy to do.
"You could easily make your own version of Neolube. Sand a graphite pencil or better yet an artist's graphite stick to get powdered graphite then mix it with some alcohol."
Please report back on this and explain any tricks or quirks to be aware of. For example what is the best proportion of alcohol to graphite? Why not apply it with a brush? Is there a way to create a lighter shade? It is such a simple trick that could have many uses and modifications.
Russ
Yes, I would like to hear more about this too as I suspect it's not as simple as it sounds. For one thing Neolube is not just graphite in alcohol. It is colloidal pure furnace graphite in a mixture of isopropanol and thermoplastic resin. The thermoplastic resin is used as a binder, producing the film layer after the isopropanol evaporates. Secondly the larger graphite particles are 4 microns in size. I think you would be hard-pressed to produce pure graphite particles fine enough and of consistent size by rubbing a pencil on a piece of sandpaper. Commercial Neolube can be applied by brush or spray-gun. I've used it quite successfully in both detail guns and air-brushes.
Paul
Hey guys this is not rocket science. Take a piece of sandpaper, take a pencil(or graphite stick) rub the pencil tip on the sandpaper to make graphite powder. Get a nice little paint brush and dip the bristles in some alcohol. Now, put the wet bristle in the graphite powder. Use this mix on the area to be metalized. When the alcohol dries burnish the area with your finger. A simple test will take you 2 minutes tops. Less time than it took to write this post.
Searoom,
you forget you are on a FINESCALE forum, where they apply difficult to grasp techniques and materials ;) ;D ;D
Jacq
Jacq, truth often is unkind. Go stand in the corner. -- Russ
The corner was deleted by Google.
Ohhhh.... well that explains the draft.
Paul
Quote from: Roughboy on April 14, 2010, 02:59:40 PM
Ohhhh.... well that explains the draft.
Paul
If you put your pants back on you wont feel it so much.
......off to look for the missing corner.
Marc
Sorry, the word "corner" is against the rules. You are banned for life.
Cordially,
Your Friends At Google
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 14, 2010, 11:04:20 PM
If you put your pants back on you wont feel it so much.
Marc
Well, I was hoping you'd notice...
Paul (move over, you're hogging the imaginary corner...)
i need another lifetime to try all these great ideas. thanks for the info. Mario
QuoteHey guys this is not rocket science
well I would not vote for that. To make it more complicated:
http://www.sisweb.com/referenc/msds/neolube1.pdf (http://www.sisweb.com/referenc/msds/neolube1.pdf)
http://www.sisweb.com/referenc/msds/neolube2.pdf (http://www.sisweb.com/referenc/msds/neolube2.pdf)
Micromark sells Neolube 2 maybe the canadian firm Neolube 1 for the $1100 mentioned ??
Jacq