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Haven't had much time for modelling lately...still re-working the die cast bits.
CD
Just beautiful.
Is that the "new" radiator grille....or is that the painted Diecast one?
Have you decided on a color for the tractor?
Marc
Thanks, Marc.
It's the solid plastic one that has the tubes cast on the outside. Looks OK from A Very Far Distance Away.
It will be "Filthy Fordson Grey" (someday)
CD
Chuck, I'm blown away every time I see your "vacation" diorama. Now you're doing it again with the tractor. Amazing realism!
Chuck
Just outstanding! Simply amazing I can't wait to see this completely done!
Jerry
Thanks for the nice words! I foolishly took on some consulting work, so modeling time is scarce. Plus I am finding it challenging to work with the die-cast metal. I've had to buy new sets of burrs and files, since I have previously only worked with soft metal kits.
CD
Chuck, Really good work. Could youtell me how you get such well defined shadow?
Also, what scale is this?
Hector
Thanks, Hector.
It's 1/16th scale, so the tractor is about 9" long. The lighting is from Mr. Sun.
CD
Chuck, Now there's an underrated scale! We don't get sun like that in England, either. I thought you'd got some clever spots on there. What will you do for grass,etc.? It's a big scale for vegetation to look convincing. Lovely work though. You tread a fine line between understatement and "leaving it out" Cheers, Hector
Thanks Hector! So far, all I have tried is Jute Macreme twine for dried grass. I have no idea what I would do for larger bushes or trees!
There is a modeller named Gordon Birell (spelling?) who does a lot of beautiful work in 1/16th. He might have some ideas for large vegitation. I only tried it because the die cast tractor was in that scale. Nice scale to work in though!
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CD
Man...these pictures just floor me!! No matter how many times I have seen them, or that I know what you did for techniques....I just cant get over their craftsmanship and reality!
Marc
And I suppose, Chuck, that you're going to try to convince us that those are photos of a 1:16 scale model. Can't fool me. It's a real building with real weeds. -- Russ
Thanks, all! Rich, if that was a toad, he'd better move before the tractor backs in!
The jute weeds look good to me, at least it's as much effort as I am willing to do!
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CD
Chuck, I think Rich should take more water with it, don't you?<g> I think the toad's a wheel mark.
That wood is amazing. Take it from one who's been pulling rotten timber out of a wooden boat for 3 years, that is rotten timber. Dry rot to be specific. Wet rot has different fissures. And that jute really does do the dead grass/straw just right. What is it exactly?
Hector
Somewhere in my 1/35 scrap boxes, I believe I have a neat little lizzard. It came with an Africa Corps kit. If I can find it, I will take a pic to post here, and send the little critter off to Chuck.
Marc
Thanks for the nice words! Hector, here is a link to one source for the jute material. Back in the sixties and seventies it was commonly used for making plant hangers and other Hippie items.
http://www.dickblick.com/zz652/01/
I did a quick paint up of a lizard from The Backshop. This is as far as I got:
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I lost interest when I realized it should have longer toenails and briefly considered ways to do it :o
CD
Doubtless a good decision, Chuck, because model judges, hobbyists, and I myself all would deduct a substantial number of points from your model because of the "unprototypical" length of the lizard's toes. Perhaps you could replace the offending figure with a squatting rat whose fur would obscure the unrealistic toes. Or perhaps a sloth. Or maybe an enormous pile of oats. Great Guns, it is SO hard for me to express the extent of my disappointment! -- Russ
Leapin Lizards!
CD
Steering wheel done. Cleaned up metal casting. Added cracks to ?hard rubber? rim with X-acto blade. Painted with Polly Scale black and Gray. Chipped gray, then dipped in Blacken-it. Final treatment with Bragdon powders.
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CD
Mac McCalla's signature on one of his weathering jobs is 'bird poop' somewhere on the model. I've offered to bring my parrot 'Chablis' over to his house to create him some prototypes to work from. He just doesn't seem to be into that. Somehow there seems to be a limit to how prototypical we get.
John
Chuck,
Great look and finish. The cracks are a nice detail. Was there any effect on the Polly-Scale when/after dipping it in the blacken it?
Marc
Thanks, Marc. No effect at all. Blackens the exposed metal perfectly.
CD
Agreed - super work. Paint wear on outboard end of spokes and on hub-nut is especially convincing.
Bill
Chuck
Nice work on the wheel it looks perfect wear from people holding on to the spokes instead of the wheel itself.
Jerry
Here's a couple of update shots. Inbetween fixing leaks this weekend I actually got a little done!
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CHuck
Just beautiful. It's great to see it finally coming together.
Are you using ACC to hold it all in place?
Marc
Adequate work, Chuck. -- Russ
Thanks Marc. I'm mostly using a combo of 5 min epoxy and JB Weld. THe 5 min. so I can do final align, and the JB for strength, especially the metat to metal bonds. But, JB takes 17 hours to set... :o
If I can get away with no finicky alignment, I use Loctite 454 gel. Super hold, but near immediate bond.
Russ, I WILL try harder!
Chuck
Chuck
Perfect just Perfect. This is really starting to look like a real Tractor I believe when its all done and sitting in front of the barn on the diorama, one will not be able to tell whether its real or a model.
Jerry
Outstanding work Chuck :o :o
It's interesting that you're using JB Weld. I've used it many times in motorcycle applications ? emergency repairs and so on. Incredibly tough stuff, but I've never thought of using it in the model shop. It's a little thick and heavy for most 1:48 work but there could be some future applications. Thanks for the tip.
Bill
Quote from: Chuck Doan on March 30, 2007, 12:47:37 PM
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Haven't had much time for modelling lately...still re-working the die cast bits.
CD
Beautiful work my friend, kinda makes me wanna trash my stuff and take up basket weaving...............Mac McCalla
Mac!
Do you see now why I was bugging you to come look at this stuff? We've got some learning to do.
John
Mac, when I were nobbut a lad I did quite a lot of basket weaving. Gave me cheap Christmas presents for grannies and Mum. She still has them 45 years later! Then I discovered modelmaking. Chuck's stuff IS lovely , ain't it? I like the way it looks like he almost doesn't care. It just rolls off his thumbs.
Hector
Hector
You speak of basket weaving, I must tell this story. You mentioned you knew Lloyd Asbury and his incredible model building. Well, many years back Lloyd was into WW1 fighter planes. He built them wood for wood, metal for metal. Turns out the plane he was modeling had a woven wicker seat. So there sits Lloyd at the workbench, he has found some long grass and he is trying to weave a model wicker seat. It was quite a model. I believe it is now in a collection in San Diego.
John
THanks for the nice words. Somewhere out there I saw a wicker seat being made for a WW1 airplane...1/16th is a common aircraft model scale too.
Bill, I have been using the JB for building up surfaces on the metal parts too. It sands very somooth and can make sharp edges, etc. The drying time does require some careful planning though.
Chuck
Some progress:
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Working on the gas tank and radiator now:
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My God Chuck you have just set the standard for anyone who ever builds a tractor.
The more I look at your work the more I shake my head in total amazement.
Your talent is beyond words!!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry!
Here is my hopefull plan for the radiator. Fins from .002 Mylar, tube spacer from laser cut clear .010 mylar. Still in the testing stage, we shall see! (standby for plan C)
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Fin/spacer assy
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The core assy
Thanks for making my day, Chuck! -- Russ
Beautiful Chuck!
I am really interested to see how this compares with Mart'ys radiator.
Since the spacers are solid, I am assuming, that you won't be able to see "daylight" between the fins?
Did Tom cut these parts for you? How clean did the Mylar cut?
Marc
Thanks Marc And Russ!
I am thinking the clear Mylar spacer will potentially allow a ?see thru? effect, and I will just paint the tube ?bumps?. All has still to be proven as Tom didn?t have .010 Mylar. I have some on the way, hopefully this will work!
If for some reason I have to give up the see thru, I won?t be unhappy. The Fordson core was quite thick, and out of the hundreds of pics I have collected for reference, maybe only 2 show any hint of light peeking thru, and these were taken square on.
If all else fails, on to Plan 9!
Interesting idea Chuck. How are you planning to register or align all the separate layers?
Bill
Probably some simple tooling that I will butt everything up against. Notches were considered, but we'll see if the part can be made. Crossed fingers....
Since you're planning to have the spacer pieces laser cut, could you not have a couple of holes laser cut in the middle of the stock in-line with the "bumps" for alignment pins? Then you'd just have to stack the pieces in order by dropping them over the pins. Just a thought....
Bill