I am posting this thread here because I thought it might be fun or interesting to some, or inspire some ideas. This is an excerpt(s) from a tank model building thread that I am doing on the MIG forum.
There is a category in IPMS (international Plastic Modelers Society) competition, that is called "Out Of The Box" (OOB).
this category requires that you are only allowed to use what came in the box as part of the kit to build the model. No aftermarket details, nostyrene, no wire nothing...unless ist comes with the kit from the Mfr.
I decided I wanted to see how far I could take this (to a reasonable extent/limit due to time constraints in getting the model done).
Every tank needs some steel cables:
....so I decided to experiment with some streched sprue, and see if I could make "plausible" steel cables.
This cable has "field" made ends (so not really a true "tow cable").....The entire cable is a bit less than 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. It has been brush painted with Floquil "Roof Brown", dusted with some powders, and been rubbed with pencil graphite. Far from perfect, but it makes me think there might be a possibility to do this for my project.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38t_Cable1.jpg&hash=d2afac311d5dab95c3adcd8c2fbe9c1da72b26d2)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38t_Cable1a.jpg&hash=3a7826e59bfb1b31c72cbec892fb271ba0bfcc84)
Well I wasn't quite happy with the cable....so I thought I would have a try at it again.
I built a tool to better help me hold and turn the stretched sprue pieces:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38t_CableTool.jpg&hash=5c18c2e67b9a50c4ba867d3dbf0efa490e80b5f9)
After about the fifth try I ended up with a 19cm long cable that was acceptable.
I devised a story for this cable: It was to be a cable that had once broken in the field at one end during use.
Here the original end. The hasps were made out of paper from the kit instructions (has to be OOB :) ), and the rivets/screw heads, are pieces of stretched sprue:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38t_Cable2EndA.jpg&hash=e66051fcb5880a9fb62d7b0994a15770c05d255e)
Here the field repaired end:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38t_Cable2End.jpg&hash=dbcfa6e3dc2d36cbc86bac6d2261df7cc53f1e2e)
Here both ends after some quick preliminary paint and finish:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38t_Cable2Ends.jpg&hash=c189649cf342d342d3b61285e2762ceab839f85f)
Here the entire cable:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38t_Cable2.jpg&hash=180cd9445cc69834aaffaf2c2d2b9c9c9d8e66fe)
Then I needed some gear stowage bozes for on the fenders:
My first attemt was using the instuction sheet paper to fold one up....Well heres a photo of the paper stowage box disaster.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38TOOB_BoxPaper.jpg&hash=bbae14c171416ef2bef0e44dd7486f134dcc7fb9)
...So it was time to implement Plan "B'.....this involved using the Sprue Tabs, which were removed, cut in half, and glued together:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38TOOB_BoxesSprue.jpg&hash=a376880f9b4022222ad62bb8dc68036a42822b7f)
These were then filled where needed, and sanded smooth and thinner....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38TOOB_BoxesParts.jpg&hash=3cef22e801a3ee56c45263a88e9a2e548697d6ed)
...then cut to size, and assembled into the pasic boxes. lower portion of the box at left is made from the unused smoke discharger rack.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38TOOB_BoxesFormed.jpg&hash=0e1a1da4bc4b7b3715a96715c2f7e51ae5b9739a)
Lastly the details were added. Hinges and rivet heads were made from stretched sprue. The hasps are a combination of stretched sprue, and perts formed from the PE sheet frame. The large box is 15mm wide, and 9mm tall ..
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38TOOB_BoxesFinished.jpg&hash=22b82aff7263f49ed657f92c1bacb879371e9597)
Next came the wood beam and rack:
Here is detail of one from a photo. This one appears to have been field built.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_Bergebalken.jpg&hash=2e34558fef0bbbf59e9646595ebd326d3909c591)
Here is the rough beam shape out of 9 pieces of sprue.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BeamSprue.jpg&hash=5c8bf6d4f821fdb04a5ff30203c4e43b998f4c23)
Here is the rough beam sanded to shape and cut to length:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BeamRough.jpg&hash=53a88f575a4638646cc643ee6f4b800adb515dc8)
Next step is to fill the gaps and grooves.....and so I don't have some IPMS guy whining its not out of the box because I used Putty for the filling....I am making my own filler out of disolved sprue pieces.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_SpruePutty.jpg&hash=b01b48512b5d37999627af49ecff8805deb01ea2)
...actually the real reason for making the filler from disolved sprue rather than putty, is that the sprue filler will take carving and woodgraining the same as the adjacent sprue surface.
Marc
Ok...a bit more.
I needed to make the parts for the steel frame to hold the beam....so another sprue tab was sanded thinner...to .012" thick. (I wanted to go thinner yet, but then later fabrication would prove to be too troublesome).
Here the sanded tab:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_RackSprue.jpg&hash=6dfe2f6d5c51ef71560c768593bd5573e107ceaf)
Were the two angle iron pieces that were made from it (approx .050 x .050)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_RackAngles.jpg&hash=5e42706e74deca4f27bfc03412259c83a49b0c9d)
Marc
Very interesting Marc.
I cant beleive how much you are able to do with the sprue.
That kit musta come with a hell of a lot of it!
You have quite the imagination!!!!!
How are you streching the sprue? (obviously heat) but there has to be a good way to control / optimise the heat.
Very impressive.
-Mj
Thanks Marty,
At this point I am down to about a half Dixie cup worth of leftover parts and sprue. But I still have the two figures I can cannibalize for plastic. :D
This was my first time streching sprue. So I merely heated it over a candle flame. I heated an area about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in lenght, turning (rolling) the sprue as I moved it back and forth...then when it seemed soft enough I slowly stretched it. How soft the plastic is, and how fast you stretch is what gave me varied thichnesses. For the most important thing I found, is that at at whatever speed you stretch it...you do so at a consistant speed for the wholl stretch.....otherwise you can end up with uneven thicknesses in the stretched piece.
Manufactured styrene only comes down to .020" dia...but this you can stretch any thickness you want...I have some thinner than my hair...and they're pretty darn tough. Also, plastics have shape memory...so if you stretch a rod it will stay round...if you stretch a hex or square it will stay that shape. I also just for fun tried some sprue from different plastic kits/mfrs. that I had...and the stretch results and resulting plastic behavioc varies depending on the plastic used in the kit making/sprue. Some cured very hard and kept its shape (it would hold a sagged shape when let cure in that manner), while another remained much softer and pliable.
Manufactured styrene only comes down to .020" dia.I can see it has some great fiture application for my models, such as; telephone lines and wiring, using it instead of wire for some small details, small pipes, small rivet and bolt heads (by slicing it), coils of wire (like baleing wire)...etc....
Marc
Here the prototype:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_Bergebalken.jpg&hash=2e34558fef0bbbf59e9646595ebd326d3909c591)
Here the frame made with the angle irons and stretched sprue (the previously made stowage box can also be seen set loosley in place):
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_RackNoBeam.jpg&hash=14d4cc200e478e1613176b93aabf3de932dab146)
Here the frame with the beam (beam still needs wood-graining):
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BeamInRack.jpg&hash=14b9026d0cd3631f33db1d899b32a5aa08585ebd)
As a side note, in order to bend/damage and deform the metal fenders, the kit parts were milled to about .010 thickness.
Marc
This is really turning out great!
I cant beleive the details you were able to manufacture!
I think once in paint the judges will acuse you of cheating!
I cant wait to see this in paint!
Keep the info & pics coming!
p.s. did you get my email about the DVD?
-Marty
I decided to switch gears away from the tank for a few, and move to the base.
Here is the inside of the box lid. I drew a grid in AutoCad, and printed it with an inkjet printer.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BoxLidLayout.jpg&hash=2d5c430211dcb77d60d87407110e2614ebff480e)
All the peices were then cut out. I also cut a slight bevel at all the corners of the pieces. All cuts were made from the grey side of th cardboard, so that the pressure indentation would be the right direction.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BoxLidPieces.jpg&hash=df3332c8a87babb0c386b1c57fb693f99fbdc7e3)
Here are all the pieces and the shaved sprue "trolly track" glued in place.
once the "stone" pieces were glued to the board and dry (before track was added) I took the board outside and laid it face down on my apgalt driveway and some concrete, and stepped ion the board, till I cot the texture impressions I was after. This was then covered with a brushed on coat of Liquitex "Matte Medium". Just before the M-M completly dried I tok the rounded end of a small brush and dre/indented it along the stone lines/cracks, to great a slight depresson and eased edges to the stones.
Lastly the track detail was attached with superglue.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BaseRough.jpg&hash=07b5bd92f5b2c8bad7c0ee38ac85ec44a34913d4)
Here is about how the tank will sit on the base.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BaseTestLayout.jpg&hash=e90ef87a15fde8f7d4bdbe1f043c1b15ae8656a6)
Lastly a pic of it sapryed with Mr. Surfacer. (why the stuff didn't dry completely matte I don't know :? )
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BasePrimer.jpg&hash=c5924335286e98aedd5b3ea20de4aa842c4f96ff)
Whether this looks good/right, I will have to see once I add some washes and weathering to the stones and paint the track.....If not, I think I have nough stones and sprue pieces left to try one more.
Marc
PS.
Marty....I did....but completely spaced. I don't have that one....I have though about buying a copy, but haven't done so yet. Looks interesting though.
Ok,....here is the result of the coloring of the cobblestone street to date.
How exactly I acheived it is a bit tough to expalain (can't fully remember the whole process myself)....base washes were done with grey and brown Tamiya Acrylics. This was followed by highlights of varied mixes of grey and beige Vallejo Acrylics...then a wash of Artists oils...at this point there was quite a bit of variation and highlights in the stones....however when the pigments were applied for the cracks, it took away alot of that :-\ The rail was painted with Floquil "Roof Brown", into which pigment was rubbed. Staining and coloring was done with more artists oil washes in Turpentine.(what appearst to be white spots/areas on the rail, is the photo lights reflecting in some of the sheen of the finish)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BaseColored2.jpg&hash=541f2100f53136cb3a24037cab75cb3134fd021a)
...and A detail Pic.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BaseColored2Det.jpg&hash=4daf30015e4a80d1b631ffe5e7e9c00c9d9fc982)
Fortunately the tank will cover most of it, and there will be rubble and debris scattered across it as well....so in the end it will hopefully look OK.
Marc
After all that, this is all that's left of the stuff in the box.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FMR_38tOOB_Leftovers.jpg&hash=9b486a1d9591b5853d3f6bd181326cf3b8da3b31)
I am sure though that there are still a couple of detail parts that can be made from this ;D..... of course there's still the rest of the box, and the decal sheet. In hindsight I should have saved the shrink wrap ;D. Unfortunately I can't use much of the instruction sheet, as it has to be submitted with the model.....otherwise it may have been usable for paper-mache items such as natural terrain...or cut up into plants/leaves......or a rolled up a sheet could even have become a telephone pole. ::)
Marc
I dont know about anyone else but I am sure enjoying this!
You are out of your mind!
-Mj
This is the kind of innovation and artistry I wish more people in model railroading would demonstrate. Too many seize upon one material or technique, then shut their eyes to others equally effective or possibly superior. Worse, a majority rarely bothers to build any kit, let alone improve one.
It is not a hobby when all you do is collect or copy. That is simply a passtime. A hobby involves both a physical and emotional investment. It becomes an art when you create something out of nothing.
I find Marc's approach more inspirational than I can express. I couldn't care less that it happens to be a non-railroad model. And I find much of the degeneration now characterizing model railroading in general to be correspondingly depressing.
I'm going into the other room to cut up some cardboard and sticks and finish up that model I've been avoiding for the past three months. What are you guys going to do? -- Uncle Russ
Marc
Just an outstanding job! Of taking just an everyday kit and making it into a work of art.
I hope to have the imagination you have one of these days, and where better else to learn it then on this web site.
The projects and the workmanship on this forum is just outstanding and very creative!!
I will have to go with Marty on this one you may be out of your mind, but then again I listen to Marty all the time, and I think he may try to give you a run for your money.
Please do post the finish pictures of this model!!
Jerry
I have been following this thread since Marc started it on Monday. But it's so jaw-droppingly creative that I've not known how to reply appropriately. The usual "attaboys" seem pretty darned lame in this context. But I think Marty summed it up perfectly in his last reply: Marc, you are out of your mind. ;D ;D
Seriously, Marc, I have been as intrigued by the boxlid "cobblestones" as I was with the cables-from-sprues. Incredible!
What am I going to do, Russ? Well, I was working on a mini-scene, HO scale, ya know, of a family of LPP's in their living room. The family has apparently taken up basket weaving as a family activity.... but trying to weave those darned little baskets in scale is so intricate that it was making my whole body hurt. I've had a little break from it now, so perhaps I should try finishing it up.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.homepage.mac.com%2Fmichael21%2Fgifs%2Frealclown.gif&hash=68b6b131086c1c2644417e045e0616d7dce6734a)
Wow...thanks guys!
This has really been fun to do. Though in the end it is probably too overboard to be allowed in the OOB entry category. ::)
It has taken me back to some of the fun, adventure and creativity of modeling that I used to feel as a kid, when you would open that box and just be in wonder of all those parts and what would be created with them....and that great fun of seeing something evolve in front of your own eyes.
It has given me a nice opportunity to think outside the proverbial "box" as what is possible with these items, and to do some great research, experimenting and creative thinking. It was also fun/interesting to build all this without spending a dime on materials or aftermarket parts...(though an existing small fortune in tools, paints, etc., didn't hurt ;) ) Above all though, it really helped to hone some of my existing modeling skills/techniqes, and learn a number of new ones.
For those interested, the tank coloring and weathering will be based on these Bulgarian prototype examples:
http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/Reusser_Military/MR_38tOOB/MR_38tOOB_BulgarianScheme3a.jpg (http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/Reusser_Military/MR_38tOOB/MR_38tOOB_BulgarianScheme3a.jpg)
http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/Reusser_Military/MR_38tOOB/MR_38tOOB_BulgarianScheme4.jpg (http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/Reusser_Military/MR_38tOOB/MR_38tOOB_BulgarianScheme4.jpg)
http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/Reusser_Military/MR_38tOOB/MR_38tOOB_BulgarianScheme1.jpg (http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/Reusser_Military/MR_38tOOB/MR_38tOOB_BulgarianScheme1.jpg)
Marc
I've been away for a while, and just found this. What creativity! Please bring the project to the next meet.
-Younger
The best! I'll bet no one else comes as close in this catagory. OOB redefined!
CD
Well after a few margaritas tonight, I remebered that every tank needs to have a bucket hanging on the back ;D....so...
After two tries and two hours of work, I finally got one that I think is passable/useable. The side is made from primer coated paper from the instruction sheet, the Bottom is cardboard from the box lid, the details and handles are from streched sprue. The bucket is just under 3/8" tall. The top edge seam was sealed/filled with "Mr. Surfacer 500", thus the somewhat wobbly/uneven appearing edge.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BucketRough.jpg&hash=93f7d35300c89cff97fa4c101f77c9f8f5e25105)
I think once its all painted and weathered it should work/look ok.
Marc
What did you use to form the tapered cylinder? And, more importantly, how did you hide the seam where the paper edges overlap? -- Unc
Two concentric circle/arc lines were cut to create the piece for the walls. This was then slightly lapped at the ends (about 1/64-1/32") and glued with super glue. It was quite fussy to get it to sit right, and not kink the paper while working with it...hence the two tries :-\....the second time I somewhat "pre-shaped/curved" the paper strip over a round tapered brush handle. Seam was held together with fine sharp tweezers till the glue dried.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_BucketPaper.jpg&hash=07a0fc3adcb624368cb419691218619e7a3f68dd)
I actually wanted the seam overlap to show....some of the old prototype buckets have pretty heavy seams. I lightly thinned the paper at the edges using a 400grit sanding stick, before gluing.
Marc
I needed some pieces of corrugated metal for clutter on the base......and went about adapting the technique posted in this thread, http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=15.0 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=15.0) in the "Tips & Tricks" section.
This is for 1/35, so dimensions/sizes will need to be adapted for other scales. for the "metal" I am utilizing cut pieces of the instruction sheet, that heve benn thoroughly brushed/soaked on both sides with dilluted Liquitex "Matte Medium". My thought being that the matte mediun will act as both a stiffener, and reduce the surface fuzz of the paper.
Two form halves were made using .050 styrene sheet. Onto which were glued .080" rods spaced at .060". This gives me pretty much a a prototypical 2-1/2" center to center corrugation. The spaced between the rods were filled using .060 x .040 styrene strips. This would strengthen and stabilize the round rods, and give me a positive "depth limit" stop on the corrugation.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_CorrForm.jpg&hash=f1c5b9c38a4265be6421940182779bdd3aade4ac)
The original intent was to merely sandwich the soaked piece of paper between the two forms....but this proved to be problematic due to the way the paper develeps tension as it has to lay into the lower form grooves as the upper form is pressed into place. So I layed one edge of the soaked paper square on to, and lightly laid it across the form. I then began at one side and pressed individual .080" styrene rods into the grooves. Once these were all in place I weighted them down. [At this point I could have remover the rods, and just pressed the other form half in their place....but I decided this way the air would circulate better for the paper to dry, and I could do another piece in the other half of the form.]
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2Fa1.jpg&hash=2412395501c3671c3f2f65097488fe9e0c9f0116)
This photo shows the paper dry in the form with the rods removed.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_CorrDryInForm.jpg&hash=22f3497a844dbce1bc8cf05893275e51f1ee7c55)
This image shows the dried corrugated paper removed from the form, and ready for paint with airbrush, and weathering.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_CorrPaper.jpg&hash=fab0f6279cb098940d93216af33cf752794d86e7)
This same template and method is easily used on thin alum., brass, and copper for real metal roofing.
Marc
...okay...next step......
I knew that I was going to need some rubble and bricks to scatter on the base....so....
Here are the two components that willl become the rubble. On the left are all the smmall corner pieces that I cut off the street pavers. On the right are sprue pieces that have been finely chopped with a razor blade.
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These were then mixed together in a small plastic tray. To this was added som 95% Isopropyl Alcohol, a couple of drops of Valley paint, and MIG Powders.....then all stirred together till evrything had good color coverage.
At this point the stuff is all sort if in lumpy balls.....it was then placed under a desk light to dry......while drying I used a small spatula to constanly move it around and break it apart....till I acheived this.....
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....next the bricks......
Marc
Marc
.........WOW........ I think I'll need help after this you are just going so far outside the box. Just outstanding I still can't wait to see this all done.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry....I hope the "sum" will be as good/interesting as it's "parts". ::)
I realize that this type of stuff is easier to do in larger scales like this...but I think I will be able to carry a good bit of it over into 1/48" RRing. Especially the finishing techniques.
Marc
As a change of pace from carving bricks...here is something else I am messing around with....a pair of old boots. These were made using the feet/boots of the enclosed figure. They were first drilled/routed out using a small round Dremel cutting bit. Unfortunately the kit boots are too short, as they are intended to be partially hidden by the figures pants.....so I needed to make them taller. Using some plastic shavings (from the figure torso), softend in liqud cement, and some putty, new uppers were shaped. Here they are seen with a coat of Mr Surfacer. Why the Mr surfacer dried shiney I have no idea :-\
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Not perfect.......but I guess I'm ok with them....they do look a bit better when not seen in such macro. I was thinking of hanging them on the tank with some streched sprue shoelaces......or I can leave one laying in the rubble on the street...not sure yet....a lot will depend on how bad my paintjob on them is ::)
Marc
You are unhappy with THOSE?? -- Russ
Well....lets just say im not hopping around my workbench with glee. :-\
Ok... and now the individual bricks and brick pieces that will be mixed in with the rubble.
The bricks were made using the torso of the figure. The torso was first planed to a block that had the proper brick cross section/dimension. In this case 4" x 8".
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This was then sliced into individual bricks (like bread slices). Using an X-acto knife and a Mission Models chisel, these were then cut, reworked and sculpted, to give the appearance of older/damaged/rubble brick.
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The finished bricks. The bricks were dry-brushed and "dabbed" with a mixture of Tamiya Acrylics (XF-9 'Hull Red', XF-68 'Nato Brown') and Vallejo Acrylics (#821 'German WW2 Camouflage Beige', #829 'Light Brown'), then lightly dusted with MIG Powder (#PO38 African Earth). The grout was made with a mixture of powdered Rembrandt pastel ('Raw Umber'), Vallejo Acrylics (#821 'German WW2 Camouflage Beige'), and MIG Powder (PO35 'Panzer Grey Fading'), and Windsor Newton Gouache ('Zinc White'), stirred till a thick paste was created, then stippled onto the brick pieces on the sides where mortar would occur.
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Marc
I think you may need a photo of the figure in "mid plane" to convince the judges. I wonder if anyone else has gone to this level.
The bricks are terrific!
CD
Just outstanding the bricks well you know really look real. Or are they real and we do nice camera work! Just kidding Marc just another great job.
Jerry
Not much time for modeling today.....just some small stuff....
I wanted the appearance of an old used galvanized bucket that had developed surface oxidation, and had seen heavy use in a variety of tasks. Coloring was done with an initial Brush applied coat of a pale blue Humbrol matt enamel (#23), when dry this was lightly sprayed with a coat of Tamiya spray paint (TS-27 'Matte White'), this was folloewd by several light washes of Windsor Newton Artists Oils ('Ivory Black' , "Burt Umber"). These were followed with washes of Vallejo acrylics (#869 'Basalt Grey', # 862 'Black Grey)...while not fully dry Bragdon's rust powders were applied, and blended into the acrylic washes with a water dampened brush. Lastly the bucket was given a pin wash of 'Ivory Black' in the seams and details, with a very light dusting of Doc O'Briens Grungy Gray" weathering powder.
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And the beginings of some scrap steel for the ruble. This was made from leftover PE sheet and plastic sprue.
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Marc
Had a few minutes to model this evening, so I finished thecorrugated roofing.
I took a somewhat interpretative approach to the finish, and did it more overall rusty finish than actual roofing might be, but I needed it to act as an 'accent' color/finish on the base.
The paper was brush painted with Floqiuil "Roof Brown". After the surface appeared dry, I used a pin to poke nail/fastening holes and randomly brushed the pieces with various Bragdon's rust and black colored powders. The high points/ridges were then lightly rubbed with a soft cotton rag.
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...and a detail view.
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Marc
Well...I am not sure how I feel about the finish on it....but for now it will have to do. Time is fleeting.....
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There is a good bit of wood graining...it just doesn't tend to show in the photos.
Marc
Having some time today, I decided to haul this project out of the drawer.
All he scrap/rubble/corrugated pieces that were previously made, were added to the base, and fixed with Diluted matte medium. Once dry everything was given a dusting of MIG "Brick Dust" and "Concrete" pigments, which where needed were held in place with MIG Pigment fixer.
The photos were taken hand held outside in natural sunlight....so sorry for the harsh contrast and slight unsharpness.
(I will reshoot them with tri-pod and proper lighting when I get a chance).
Here's another view of the overall base.....It will eventually sit in a black frame.
M
Hell , I'd give you first prize just from reading the thread . Ingenius !
Terry
Thanks.
M