This project has been in the "Mental Planning" stages.....
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...but what pushed me over the edge to get started was the photo
Rick Marty posted. What a great looking piece of home-built equipment!
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To start with, I like the steel wheels in the first photo, even on a self-propelled stacker, and
the best thing I could come up with for the rim was the center spool from a roll of Scotch Tape:
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Long story short:
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The chassis will be built around the front clip from an AMT "Beverly Hillbillies" truck, using the motor,
front axle and the front of the frame. The rest will be built using Evergreen channel stock.
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BTW, the lumber stacks in the first photo?
I just ordered 10,000 wooden coffee stirrers on-line.
Stayed tuned for project updates.
Ii had a feeling that truck mounted thing was going to be irresistable!
I just ordered 10,000 wooden coffee stirrers on-line.
[/quote]
You are a real coffeedrinker? ;D
Leon
Fasten your seatbelts; here he goes again! -- Russ
Hi Ken,
I have a set of 40 pictures showing all details and measurerments of that critter if your interested in a copy send me your mailing address and I will shoot you a CD of it.
Later
Rick Marty
Oh, yeah.....that would be WAY cool, Rick. I'll send you a PM (your e-mail is "hidden").
Thanks bunch,
Ken
You are a genius Ken...
This build is going to be a pleasure to witness... thanks... ;)
Mike
Just as a little added detail that most likely won't be seen: the kit transmission casting had an
open flywheel and ring gear. I spruced it up a little by hollowing out the bell housing and adding
a watch-gear flywheel and an old parts-box cannister air cleaner for the clutch housing (the blue piece):
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Here's the first mock-up. The solid platform was built before I decided
to mount the tower on a truck chassis. I may not use the deck and mount
the legs to the open frame to show all the running gear detail:
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This gives a rough idea of how tall it will be - just about 12-actual-inches in 1/2" scale
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It might actually be a little shorter. Right now the tower legs are sitting on the deck.
They'll eventually spread open more, sit down over the sides and bolt to the chassis.
Here's the FUN part.
Note the stacks & stacks of lumber in the first photo, which really
need to be there for the pending Stacker Diorama to be effective.
This oughta do it...........
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10,000 wooden coffee stirrers (....they're cheaper if you buy a lot....) that scale out to 1X4 in
1/2" scale. They're 11-scale-feet long - not what I would've preferred, but the effect will be there.
Now I just need a 55-gallon drum of white glue.
Hey Ken,
Yeah.. I liked how the rig was attacthed to the chasis of the truck showing the drive line too.
BTW: Ken do you have any books published on your working with styrene techniques?(or any for that mater)
please excuse my ignorance if you have... :-[ thanks for the update...
Mike
Wow, you're off to a great start already!
do you need any coffee? ;D
I am just asking, do you know how lumber is stacked or as it's called "sticked" for drying. If you dont, every row has a "stick" or "sticking" ( lathe size 1/4" x 2") so that air can pass between the lumber to speed up the air drying. I started in a wood window plant and we would get our stock once a month and have to restack it and restick it until it had the right humidity. To say it was fun to have to stick all that stock,well was an understatement :'(
I modeled a stack of sticked lumber once and made the front and two sides detailed and the middle was hollow. good luck but so far it looks fantastic.
Gil
ex- sash and door man
Quote from: MrBrownstone on October 31, 2009, 09:49:52 PM
Hey Ken,
Yeah.. I liked how the rig was attacthed to the chasis of the truck showing the drive line too.
BTW: Ken do you have any books published on your working with styrene techniques?(or any for that mater)
please excuse my ignorance if you have... :-[ thanks for the update...
Mike
Mike,
I can speak to that since I am the proud owner of Ken's book "How to Build Creative Dioramas" which has some but not a lot in the way of styrene techniques and is really (as the sub title reads) "for your scale auto models" displaying. The book does however give some excellent weathering techniques, diorama base construction, figure modification and finishing and addresses composition of a scene. There is much useful information about different materials used in modeling and what's appropriate for construction and finishing each. Nice glossy color photos of Ken's work and humorous text. I can't attest to it's availability anymore however. Grab one if you can find it.
Now the lumber stacker. I'm pretty sure we'll be treated to some of Ken's humorous wit and see a figure or two in the finished build (consider that an official request Ken). Oh and I'm not surprised to see details in this build already that probably won't ever be noticed.
Hey Ken,
Looks like your off to a flying start.
You'll have the build done before I even get the pictures to you :).
By the way they will go out to you tomorrow.
Later
Rick Marty
Hey Chester,
Thank you for that info on the book...
Mike
Thanks, guys. I'm anxious to see how tis one turns out myself.
Rick: Again, I really appreciate your time and trouble sending along those photos. Thanks.
Mike: Chester did a pretty good job in the Cheering Section (Thanks, Chester. BTW, there
WILL be some figures in the diorama). Kalmbach commissioned the book, offered practically ZERO
promotion in the four years it was on the shelves, then pulled it and most of their other model car
related books in 2005. I bought as many as I could (they offered me a whopping 40% off the cover
price) before the rest went to the shredder, but I've since sold all I got. Amazon has a few for
about $100 or so and very so often one show up on eBay.
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Thanks Ken,
I will see if I can find one... ;)
Mike
Ken, isn't Kalmbach just an all around great outfit? One of these days we should trade horror stories. -- Russ
Ken
Looks like your off to a great start. It'll be great following this thread to.
Jerry
Ken, i have the book....you say amazom wants 100 bucks for a copy??? What do they sell for on E-bay? Craig
Quote from: mobilgas on November 02, 2009, 09:56:47 AM
What do they sell for on E-bay?
Depends. There was one on eBay about a year ago with an opening bid of $45 that didn't sell.
Here's one for you:
One guy wrote to me shortly after the book was pulled and said he paid an insane $
275 for it on Amazon...
Just when I was feeling pretty pumped up thinking the book was in such demand, I got an e-mail
from another guy who found a copy at a Yard Sale for 50-cents.....(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fbeatup%2F1.gif&hash=142a92e1b236a0c7d9d71b6397547bbe15bf8f56)
Hey Ken,
When I get one ... I'll turn it into an E-Book for you so you will always have a copy for someone if needed
(you can sell those too)
Criag:
You ask about e-bay... Are you looking to part with your copy?
Mike
Mike, I want to keep my copy... if i run into another copy ill let you know. Craig
Hey Ken,
Coming soon to a mail box near you!
Later
Rick Marty
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on November 02, 2009, 04:32:01 PM
Hey Ken,
Coming soon to a mail box near you!
Oh, man....I can't wait.
Thanks, Rick
UPDATE: The disc came yesterday, Rick. GREAT photos!!
(You've got a PM)
Thanks again.
Ken,
This is just so freaking cool!......Thanks.
M
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on November 02, 2009, 12:06:25 PM
Quote from: mobilgas on November 02, 2009, 09:56:47 AM
What do they sell for on E-bay?
Depends. There was one on eBay about a year ago with an opening bid of $45 that didn't sell.
Here's one for you:
One guy wrote to me shortly after the book was pulled and said he paid an insane $275 for it on Amazon...
Just when I was feeling pretty pumped up thinking the book was in such demand, I got an e-mail
from another guy who found a copy at a Yard Sale for 50-cents.....(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fbeatup%2F1.gif&hash=142a92e1b236a0c7d9d71b6397547bbe15bf8f56)
I picked up my copy a year ago at the model shop down the road from George Sellios's place in Peabody for the cover price of $18.95 . They obviously didn't know that they had a rare work of literature on their hands . But I did !
I wonder how many other copies of it there are in the UK ?
Nick
Thanks for all the comments. Nick, I'm glad you got a copy of the book. Hope you like it.
The disc of photos of the truck-mounted stacker from Rick Marty just about changed the
whole direction of the project - for the better. The details in those photos are just
wonderful and HAD to be incorporated in the model. Thanks again, Rick.
The front leaf springs were scrapped in favor of this pivot-type suspension system. The axle
was retained; the wishbone is a brass angle with a 000-120 machine screw soldered to the end....
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Everything is pinned for alignment....
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Here's what it'll look like all together. Two nuts will hold the pin on the crossmember....
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The rear spring was deep-sixed, too. The rear will be U-bolted to the brackets.....
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Heidi demonstrates how flexible the new suspension system is.....
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All new motor mounts were installed, too. Wait'll you see the rest of the drive train.
The reference photos from Rick showed a really unique operating system.
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More to come. Thanks for looking.
Very interesting chassis Ken... the one on the lumber stacker's coming along nicely too... ;)
Paul
No thong bikini; I prefer the stacker chassis. And of course it is outstanding so far. -- Russ
Does Heidi do work in 1:48 as well?
Its a well stacked stacker Ken, great looking model (and the other plastic stuff you're doing in the pictures is ok as well).
Dan
Quote from: danpickard on November 09, 2009, 02:59:33 AM
Does Heidi do work in 1:48 as well?
Its a well stacked stacker Ken, great looking model (and the other plastic stuff you're doing in the pictures is ok as well).
Dan
Ken
Ditto!!!! On what Dan said!!!!
When your done with her maybe she could vist for awhile.
Well anyway just an outstanding model your building there.
Jerry
Heeeeyyyyy....you guys are getting the wrong idea about Heidi.
She's a no-nonsense, upstanding (sometimes), highly skilled professional model.
Nice pics and progress ! I am sure looking forward to the rest of the drivetrain.
BTW: If you need any more info for the front suspension, you might want to look at the front suspension of WW2 German half-tracks ( e.g. sdkfz 250 and sdkfz 251's)
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M
Well you did say there would be figures but I didn't expect Heidi. Interesting front end (I mean the stacker)
Ken,
That is looking really good. Nice job on that home made suspension.
I'm glad to hear your going with that "unique" drive train.
I thought it had/has as much character as the whole rest of the machine.
Keep it coming.
Rick Marty
Very true, Rick. It'd be a shame to hid all that good stuff under a floor.
Thanks again for inspiring the new direction of this project.
Chester: You wanted figures.....you got figures. (PS: See you Saturday??)
Ken,
Since you are moving along so fast with this project, and are such a fan of the strange and cobbled together, I thought I might prod you with an idea for your next project.
This piece of equipment was a prototype that was designed and built for the Red River Lumber Co., in Calif.. The two photos below are from a series of pics I have likely from when it was being put through trials. As far as I know it never went into operation, as other than these pics I have not seen any others that I can recall.
This should be a funky enough piece for you for your "woods" portion of the logging/lumber machine set. ;) ;D ;D
Marc
Wow, cool log hauler! That would definitely be a good subject to model.
...and if that machine don't grab you, maybe this one will warm the cockles of your twisted car kit-bashing heart. ;) ;D
Check out the way they hust crammed that engine into the side of the cab.
M
....you just HAD to show me that, didn't you?
Ditto, I am tempted.
talk about uneven !!!!!!that pickup is cool.... thats what i like about backwoods logging. Craig
Now that is one twisted looking truck... love child of Herman Munster & Ruth Bader Ginsburg. ::) How the hell did they mount that engine in there?? At least they chocked the wheels while using it.
Paul
I once started building it using a 1/35 GAZ AA from Zveda/Eastern Express. The GAZ was a Russian built Ford, and is almost a dead match for the one in the photo.
M
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 10, 2009, 10:37:15 PM
I once started building it using a 1/35 GAZ AA from Zveda/Eastern Express. The GAZ was a Russian built Ford, and is almost a dead match for the one in the photo.
M
Noticed that too. But what type of truck is being loaded? It
almost looks like a Opel Blitz ?!
LOL! Looks like they crashed two vehicles together and just cut away the parts they didn't want.
Marc,
It looks to be a GM truck of some sort....not sure, there were quite a number of mfrs. back then that are no longer around.
It wouldn't be an opel, as they weren't really used here in the US.
Marc
Quote from: Marc988 on November 10, 2009, 10:59:52 PM
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 10, 2009, 10:37:15 PM
I once started building it using a 1/35 GAZ AA from Zveda/Eastern Express. The GAZ was a Russian built Ford, and is almost a dead match for the one in the photo.
M
Noticed that too. But what type of truck is being loaded? It almost looks like a Opel Blitz ?!
It actually might be, in one sense, seem to remember reading somewhere that Opel built US trucks under license in the 1930's(?) ...... will try and check the reference out and let you know
Hi,
don't want to hijack Kens thread but Marc's truck photo's called this to mind. Another double engined truck taken at Camp 18 in Oregon. How on earth this seemed like the best solution to a blown engine I don't know!...
James
And another
One more
Looks like an "Acme Towing Company - Model WTF" to me.
Got any more history of this thing?
Great pictures.
Hi Ken,
unfortunately I didn't get to speak to anyone about the history of the truck. There may well be someone at camp 18 that knows more about it but I was only there for one afternoon and didn't have chance to talk to anyone about the exhibits.
Did get to take over 400 photo's though and can recommend the razor clams in the restaurant :)
Really enjoying seeing your models come together- great work.
James
Hi James,
Cool jammer shot.
Looks like it could be more a counter balance solution
than a blown engine replacement, but that is just a WAG.
There were a lot of these old home made jammers in use during the
post Depression/WWII era. There are a few examples sitting up at Collier
in Chilquin,OR.
Later
Rick Marty
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on November 11, 2009, 08:18:33 AM
Looks like it could be more a counter balance solution
than a blown engine replacement, but that is just a WAG.
Rick
My thought, too, Rick. Car modeler Pat Covert & I teamed up for this build a few years
ago and hanging a weight out front seemed like a good way to provide balance.....
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LOL! These vehicles are getting weirder and weirder!
That's really cool Ken.
...since the thread seems to have run of the tracks, ....while were at it, here is another that might be of interest to you.
M
OK...can't resist...two more :-\...and then it's off to hit the sack.
You best start building faster... ;) ;D
M
Wow....I just can't get enough of this wacky equipment.
Thanks, Marc.
Another very cool truck model Ken... well done. What scale is it btw?
Paul
Quote from: Roughboy on November 12, 2009, 07:12:30 PM
What scale is it btw?
Paul
Thanks, Paul. It's 1/2" scale.
Really a lot of unusual great trucks on this thread. I had fallen, while browsing Flickr albums, upon the truck in Oregon with a second engine posted by James, and seem to remember that balance was also the proposed explanation. Just can't remember if it was the poster's guess or something he had been told.
Ken, this last truck is another beauty.
Ken,
Hope you don't mind if I Hijack a few posts here on this thread...but all these images just made me think of you....and I didn't know where else to put them.
M
I thought the lumber carrier design below was really a beautiful piece of equipment.
M
Hijack away, Marc. This is the perfect place for those pics.
In fact, that little "T"-motor gives me another idea for the stacker diorama.
Thanks...........
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on November 20, 2009, 09:03:28 PM
Hijack away, Marc. This is the perfect place for those pics.
Thanks...........
Whew...that's good...'cause I keep tripping over them on my HD......
A railtruck
PLEASE keep hijacking !!
I see at least 2 potential new project ::) ;)
Do you know what's on the back of the half-track ?? It looks like a crane maybe to load logs on road or railway equipment ?! now where did I leave that halftrack kit ??
Do you by any chance know what type of tracked tractor is pictures in one of the last pics ?
based on the position of the friver and the type of roadwheels it almost looks like a fieldconversion ?!
Marc,
I have no idea on the tractor. Looks to be reversed track set-up from standard armour....note the drive sprocket in image is at rear.
The half-track appears to be a conversion to a log loader; being used for truck loading (deduced not only from the setting and set-up, but also from the time period...post WW2...when most logging had already gone to truck). Note the guy wires in the image that are being used to stabilize the main spar/mast. from what I see in the image it does not look like they were using it to yard logs....but what do I know.....that is the only image I have of it, and I can't recall where it came from on the web. Would give me a reason to buy one of those ugly looking US halftrack models.
MR
Short off topic reply ::)
The halftrack could be a relative simple conversion :P
Start with a Dragon halftrack http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6329.htm (http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6329.htm) (includnge reviiew) ....... use http://www.k59.hk/products.html (http://www.k59.hk/products.html) detailing set for detailing the tracked drivetrain section ........ several options for etched detail sets (Lion Roar, Eduard etc) ...... top it of with a very nice resin http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/lionroar/le35088.html (http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/lionroar/le35088.html)
Ken,
Found some more stuff on my HD that seemed up your alley..... ;D
MR
This top one is not lumber realted...but it had that Hamilton look! ;)...the lower one is from Condon & Kinzua Pine Mills, their Jitney/Railtruck.
Marc,
Gotta love the "KH1" image a couple of posts back...how many different types of wheels did they have scattered around the yard when they knocked that one together.!!! Would be really funny if the right side of the vehicle had a different combination again.
Dan
Wow. Keep them coming. Marc. They'll keep me building for years.
That roller has a wonderful "WTF" factor that only a mother could love.
It would make a GREAT model!
Ken, I have just been sitting back and enjoying this entire thread. I was going thru some shots from one of my favorite flicker photogs and she had this posted. Thought it very appropriate for this thread. Pat
http://www.flickr.com/photos/judiberdis/1349946638/in/set-72157602039181498/
Funny how photos like that turn up when you start a project! Thanks, Pat.
Progress on the stacker has beens slow, but I HAVE been working on the lumber stacks
for the diorama. So far I've glued about 350 coffee stirrers,which made a stack of
lumber about 1" tall. Good thing I've got 9,650 more stirrers
and now you just HAVE to show us some pictures ;) ;D
Talking about pictures that inspire projects .... 2 pictures from Marc R just won't leave me alone, the one of the half track and the one from the tracked log hauler. From the tracked log hauler I found the following picture and info.
The tractor was build by Lamb Tractor Company, Hoquiam, Washington, USA, and on display at Hoquiam's Polson Museum.
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on November 25, 2009, 09:43:21 PM
Funny how photos like that turn up when you start a project! Thanks, Pat.
Progress on the stacker has beens slow, but I HAVE been working on the lumber stacks
for the diorama. So far I've glued about 350 coffee stirrers,which made a stack of
lumber about 1" tall. Good thing I've got 9,650 more stirrers
By my reckoning that many stirrers should give you a stack of about twenty seven and a half inches . Is your stacker going to be able to get over that high a stack ?
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on November 26, 2009, 10:41:30 AM
By my reckoning that many stirrers should give you a stack of about twenty seven and a half inches . Is your stacker going to be able to get over that high a stack ?
No......I'm going to limit the stacks to about 10" or so, but I'll need a couple of them side-by-side for effect.
The guys better get moving, though. They've got 9-1/2 boxes to go........
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Wow....and I thought some of the things I undertook were mind-numbing. ;) ;D
MR
Hey Ken, are you going to put wood grain and stain each and every piece of wood ;D for your lumber stacks. Craig
Quote from: mobilgas on November 27, 2009, 06:32:22 PM
are you going to put wood grain and stain each and every piece of wood for your lumber stacks.
Not a chance, Craig.
For no apparent reason other than it's a slow Sunday night, here's the jig I'm using
to make the lumber stacks. The pile of sticks on the right is on short, tapered 2x4s........
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The boards are pulled down off the slope, almost like playing cards being pulled out of
one of those automatic card dealers things........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv372%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPB290002-vi.jpg&hash=9650982eebb3576dd3a0a569db295c59da8a08c6)
A small plastic ruler is used to keep the pieces from jumping over each while they're
slid into place against the stops....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv555%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPB290003-vi.jpg&hash=8d9b0bf3b81d14f8bc111e06268602afe32d27a4)
The black marks are for lining up the stackers, which are glued in place after all the boards are arranged.
The end result is a pile of what look like fence sections, which will be glued together later......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv372%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPB290004-vi.jpg&hash=71f60c1cad9dfa3a4ebb09b97285f21064f971b2)
We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.......
The sloped 2x4 feeder ramp is an ingenious idea.
MR
Very interesting!
That's what I love about this forum, I'm constantly learning new, useful techniques!
Some computer problems kept me away for a few days, but here's the latest progress.
Besides the drivetrain this model isn't really that complicated, so I wanted to detail the
clutches, forks, etc., as much as possible. The easiest way to make most of the parts
was on the lathe.........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1588%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC060002-vi.jpg&hash=68ed3c3ab1be651df4b3c3af7363dbd1b51bd430)
The two ends are pinned so they're easier to put on and take off.
Here's a rough mock-up....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages112.fotki.com%2Fv184%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC060003-vi.jpg&hash=cb9bb1d14255c3fbecd16b7db4d98f65e2f2c3aa)
Mine is configured a little differently from the one in the detail photos I got from Rick.
The clearances are different so I had to rearrange the drums & gears. Here's Ricks:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages21.fotki.com%2Fv194%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F8130203%2FDSCN1138-vi.jpg&hash=9916cfaff358a2500aa7b4320e509789a43e357d)
Lastly, here's a closeup of the clutch forks, made from brass channel stock.
They still need a lot of work, but they'e coming along.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv747%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC060005-vi.jpg&hash=71b0b5e9e62ad62cc1e75e26dbd50a144e3b4a33)
Ken
What a great idea (jig) for the wood stacks.
The frame and the drive train parts are just as good as it gets. Just another interesting thread to follow. And more to learn.
That's why and I guess this has been said many times it makes this forum so interesting.
Jerry
Great stuff Ken,...you really are pulling out all the materials for this one ;).
MR
Ken,
That is coming along nicely.
I agree, the drive train in that critter is fascinating.
Nice lathe work by the way.
What kind of lathe do you use?
Later
Rick Marty
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on December 07, 2009, 05:06:32 PM
What kind of lathe do you use?
Rick
Thanks, Rick.
I've got an old Sherline that I've had for about 20 years. My machining skills are minimal
at best...I know just about enough to get myself in trouble and don't know any of the "finer points"
of machining. Wish I knew more.
Hi Ken,
Know what you mean about machining ability. I just got a lathe about 2 weeks ago and it is the first time I have played with one since High School shop classes. I am trying to come up to speed on the basics but knowdledge seems to take a long time and skill even longer. One thing for sure it shot the hell out of the hobby budget for a while :(:). I had put off getting one for a long time but now that I am starting the Marion Shovel builds I "just needed" one.
Keep us posted on your build.
Later
Rick Marty
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on December 07, 2009, 09:28:18 PM
Keep us posted on your build.
The build would be progressing faster if some wiseguy hadn't sent a bunch of
reference photos that just HAD to be worked into the project...... ;)
I'm taking a break from the repitition of building lumber stacks by jumping into the
repitition of making the brackets that carry the lumber up the conveyor.
A close look at this photo shows the configuration of the brackets:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages53.fotki.com%2Fv1579%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FShorp63-vi.jpg&hash=e006e96770b2f40ef00339f92dc0eb88e9d2cd8d)
After trying strip brass (couldn't get the right size), heating and bending styrene, trying to
bend un-heated styrene, building a master and trying to cast it in resin (...what a mess THAT
was...), I decided to make a jig and build the brackets assembly-line fashion out of strip styrene.
Here's the simple jig with the required pre-cut pieces and a finished bracket:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages38.fotki.com%2Fv231%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC090001-vi.jpg&hash=4850b5b0c52b87df79d26a8027f83c37f32ad05f)
The first step is the place the "bottom" section in the jig and glue this little center piece in place.
The jig centers it on the bottom piece:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv202%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC090002-vi.jpg&hash=9fb25e848b6762d4a98f694af37098876c247957)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv642%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC090003-vi.jpg&hash=205103063b4e16696a5cc7350d1878ded126d543)
Next, the piece is moved into the other jig that lines up the center pieces of the bracket:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1588%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC090004-vi.jpg&hash=6e97b85256584ad21738fa0e94ed39c0414065d2)
When those are in place, the diagonals are attached, followed by two little tabs
that finish off the look of "bent" arms:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv728%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC090005-vi.jpg&hash=73c6f5c23a8e5c134ab0d424ec140f262845c118)
Some rounding off of the corners and a few NBWs will finish off the bracket.
I need about 40 of them, but with the jig it should go pretty quick.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages112.fotki.com%2Fv184%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC090006-vi.jpg&hash=94198771a35db7678796ba0d4a04c955560425c0)
I always find it very educational to see how such complex structures/vehicles are modeled by breaking them down into their individual components.
I am so glad to find top modelers who build some parts several times. I recently built one small section of a structure three times. I just couldn't get it to look right. I finally achieved something acceptable on the fourth attempt. -- Russ
"....SOME parts several times.."?
More often than not, the first few are just test runs!
Ken
You do make it look easy. Thanks for showing us how they are made. Hell I'd still be trying to figure out what to use.
Jerry
The Dilemma: How to keep the motor & driveshaft aligned, but permanently attach the driveshaft &
clutches to the frame, while keeping the motor removable so it could be worked on separately.
The Solution:
The rear bearing was permanently attached to the frame, as were the brackets holding the clutch yokes:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages112.fotki.com%2Fv173%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC130004-vi.jpg&hash=16a99893f47a6e4c3b0aed4f8e38c976bbc23425)
An extra pin was added to the bottom of the transmission:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv640%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC130002-vi.jpg&hash=bfca7e827ba82ac9f4b13a410206cd74953e59b9)
That pin lines up with a hole in the rear trans mount on the crossmember:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1515%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC130003-vi.jpg&hash=ccc73351e583d67171abbe6293a6763d98f885e0)
The hollow driveshaft tube was fitted with a long rod that pushes in from the back of the shaft:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv424%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC130001-vi.jpg&hash=89ec5d640ddbf3dd8001b6e805bf5090d44d380b)
So...when the motor is permanently pinned in place, the center rod will be pushed through
the driveshaft into the end of the transmission, lining up the two and holding everything in
proper alignment.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1528%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC130006-vi.jpg&hash=45545ebd2cc5409c562b7ed1cd44d5de9d93bec4)
I always like to pin as many subassemblies as possible during construction.
This is an example of why that's so helpful.
PS: Tonight I also boxed in the tower so it's now a free-standing unit.
Here's a mock-up. The top of the tower stands about 14" off the table.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv729%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC130008-vi.jpg&hash=06e85fd2db715f56b5d348f5fd7d3b5a1cdc9c6f)
More to come....................
More quality and ingenuity than we have a right to expect. -- Russ
Ken, its a pleasure to watch you work. Great solution and well explained, I always get a kick out of your pointing arrow, just simple but perfect for the job. Thanks Pat
Quote from: Belg on December 13, 2009, 05:59:10 AM
......I always get a kick out of your pointing arrow.....
The other side of the arrow has a "Delta Airline" logo on it. It's an old
airline swizzle-stick I picked up years ago. Works great for Show-n-Tell!
Coming along beautifully Ken... it's always an inspiring treat to watch your projects come together. Excellent and simple solution on keeping all the drive line components aligned...
Paul
Nice work Ken, its certainly starting to climb up now. I imagine it will be a bit of a difficult model to move for show and tell occasions. Good work with the pins as well, neat and precise.
I love the arrow too. At first look, I thought "thats a lot of effort for a photoshop arrow", then had a closer look. Very quick and easy idea to use when shooting specific SBS photo series. Better add another stolen idea to my list...
Cheers,
Dan
Ken, The build is comeing along nice....I like the over sized Arrow ill have to copy that one ::) Craig
QuoteSo...when the motor is permanently pinned in place, the center rod will be pushed through
the driveshaft into the end of the transmission, lining up the two and holding everything in
proper alignment.
But then how will the clutches work? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
very nice!
Marty, what clutches ?? ::)
this is coming along very nicely. Pity it is so large. To make a matching scene takes up a lot of space.
Detailing is fantastic.
Jacq
A lot of repetitious tasks from the lumber stacks to the brackets Ken. You make the mundane seem intricate. Beautiful work.
All, I can say is...WOW!
I really like the way it looks with the tower in place...really emphasizes the rickety and spindly appearance.
MR
Being snowed in yesterday allowed for some building time. I got the top
carrier done and the chain drive in place - at least on the upper portion.
The gears are photo-etched. They looked too thin so I glued them to a
piece of styrene and cut out the teeth. The chain is photo-etched brass, too.
Photo-etched parts lack a realistic 3-D appearance, but the chain should look
okay for this model.............
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages108.fotki.com%2Fv1540%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC200001-vi.jpg&hash=617d2c1588c35e4254c21ff18e8d56127e28ff9a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages28.fotki.com%2Fv1031%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC200003-vi.jpg&hash=4a88ac8d58cfba91e104834c690a0b3ae9e88eea)
Ken,the chain and sprockets are just beautiful . looking forward to the diorama.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Ken, are the same people doing the chains as did your fire escape etc?
Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 21, 2009, 09:27:01 AM
Ken, are the same people doing the chains as did your fire escape etc?
Hi, Chuck:
Yeah....I had some free space on one of the sheets and filled it with these chains.
They were originally going to be used on a chain-drive Mack but didn't look very good
in that application. I'm not thrilled with them but, for lack of anything better, they
look okay on this project.
I think its quite acceptable. Chain is a major pain for modellers.
Nice Ken, I think the chains will be entirely acceptable for this model too. I like the p.e. idea for the chains and maybe with just a little more refinement could be excellent.
Ken,
the driven chain with the same interlocking links looks very good. Why didnt you use the same for the stacker platforms ? The chain with the alternating small and large links is not looking so convincing and technically less likely as the other one.
Jacq
Thanks for the comments.
Jacq, I like the "interlocking" chain better, too, but it's wider than the "square" chain and
doesn't quite fit into the channels that run up either side of the tower, which is a big factor.
I'm hoping that with paint, grease and the brackets that will be attached to it, the shortcomings
of the square chain won't be as obvious.
The interlocking chain, hanging in air all by itself, will hopefully look okay as-is.
Really great. Despite the drawbacks you mention from the PE re the 3D effect, I think these will look just fine in the end, as the eye/mind will read it and associate it with what we know in real life......and it it SO much better than those horrible Grandt type chains.
MR
Ken
Nice job I think the chains look great.
Jerry
Ken:
I side with Jacq on this one, believe the interlocking chain looks best, not quite as flat as the others. But, I also suspect that when coloured, weathered and finished, the chains will look quite believable. As Marc says, our eyes will see them for what they are supposed to represent. Perhaps with some irregular or slightly distorted links as well, they will be all the more convincing.
Paul
Ken, I'm wondering if you have seen this before?
http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/transmission/transmission_sprocket_chain.htm
I saw it used on a hullet project and thought of your project. Pat
Thanks, Belg.
Yes....I've seen Grandt Line chain. In fact, that's what I used on the Lumber Buggy.
It was too big for this application, though.
Wow....it's been over a month since my last Slow Progress Report. (Note: most of what's shown below
has happened within the past 3-or-4 days)
First, the chassis was sprayed with PlastiKote T-235 automotive sandable primer (my one-and-only
choice for primer) and stipled with Jo-Sonja "Earth Brown" artist's acrylic paint.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1590%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPC300002-vi.jpg&hash=6af737a07d5ae1d009f3a9d2d81b9664f0ced44f)
A mist of textured Rustoleum "Terra Cotta" was then applied to give the surface a little bite.
This is typical of how I start just about all weaterhing project.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv638%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP1010003-vi.jpg&hash=fd0012a44061f2e84db7808935078baaa27d2630)
The result is a somewhat variegated, slightly textured surface:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages53.fotki.com%2Fv419%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP1010006-vi.jpg&hash=619e8b36958e0f353fd1b69ba3a93b32f8637d0f)
The next step was done with the old, tried-and-true Rubber Cement technique. Nothing fancy.
Some dabs of color were added for visual effect, then the rubber cement was stipled on with a
ScotchBrite pad, followed by a wash of cheap, craft store gray.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1563%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP1230008-vi.jpg&hash=f53b024ced8ed76af1d23cac0eb47a3a1936aee8)
During all this, I also built the 'see-through" radiator, diamond-plate firewall and floor/seat assembly.
The seat was done by pulling heated plastic over a carved, wooden buck and trimming the excess.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv202%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP1250012-vi.jpg&hash=42dc09bdfdc557f0656e31c54ae4ceba2875cfaf)
Here are the new components tacked in place for a trial run:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv553%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP1250002-vi.jpg&hash=7d6cf19e572d7a963ca1cf93a8fccf527cf42c30)
Hopefully the next update will be sooner than a month................
Looks good!
How'd you do the radiator?!?!?! :o
-Marty
I do like that effect on the chassis, looks pretty convincing .... you don't want a crane to paint and rust up do you, even though you obviously don't need the practice ? I presume you just rub off the rubber cement when you have put the top coats on?
I too would like to know a bit more about the radiator please
NIce to see you back on this!
Quote from: gfadvance on January 26, 2010, 11:29:19 AMI presume you just rub off the rubber cement when you have put the top coats on?
That's correct, G. I rubbed it off with a small piece of Rubber Cement Eraser. One thing I failed to mention was dabbing on some gray & brown here and there with a small piece of Scotch-Brite to highlight some areas after the rubber cement was peeled off.
The radiator was made by first cutting the piece of screen (some model RR photo-etched diesel vent screen) to fit the grill shell opening. That served as the "front" grill. Behind that I glued some vertical styrene strips to the inside of the screen to represent the flow tubes. Next, I backed that up with a piece of 1/25th-scale photo-etched "Radiator Screen" from Detail Master, a model car aftermarket company. It's got the zig-zag pattern of a real radiator. That's about all there was to it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1589%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP1250001-vi.jpg&hash=8cb61e8c1d059de60f86995a463284b5a97f3861)
It might be a little TOO "see-through", but the illusion is there. Beats looking at a solid piece of plastic.
Chuck: I've been itching to get back to this but Real Life's been getting in the way (you know how THAT works....)
Ken, great to see you back at your work bench.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Ken
Good to see you back at the bench. Great how to. Really forward to the next step.
Jerry
Great effects with the rubber cement. I've been playing with hot candle wax to accomplish the same effects. The candle wax you can go back and cut with an X-acto before spraying.
John
Awesome work, as usual ,Ken.
Quote from: John McGuyer on January 26, 2010, 03:07:13 PM
I've been playing with hot candle wax to accomplish the same effects. The candle wax you can go back and cut with an X-acto before spraying.
John
...never tried wax, John, but it sounds interesting. I'd like to see some of your results.
Funny how the rubber cement method was the only game in town for what seems like EVER,
and now there's no end to the experimentation that goes on: hairspray, salt, wax.....etc.
It's all good!!
Ken, thanks for the info on radiator :) off to order some of this stuff.
Been back looking at the pictures you posted and going to very cheeky here but I'm not certain on the use of the chequer-plate for the firewall, like the effect its the actual thickness of it that seems to jar with the rest of the modelling. my thoughts might be to thin the plate down and hold it in place with some angle-iron bolted to the chassis
Feel free to give me a verbal blast to tell me to mind my own business, I can take it.... I think?
No "Verbal Blasts" from me, G. Constructive criticism always works.
Thinning the plate from the smooth side isn't a bad idea, providing I can
keep it smooth and even. It's definitely worth a try. The angle-iron brace is excellent.
Another approach might be to make a firewall out of wood for a change of texture, but I
think I would question the prototypical logic behind that. The simplest fix would be to run
a strap around the current firewall to conceal the out-of-scale thickness, but that might be
sort of a Cop-Out
Hmmmm.....several points to ponder on this one.
....Anybody ELSE got any bright ideas??? (I mean, "constructive criticism"?) :o
I would try some embossing foil or champagne foil and make an original appearing firewall.
Playing on the welded seems and shapes of an original, albeit beat to hek.
Then use some angle, may be a piece of wood for the "dash"
-Marty
Ken, appreciate you taking my comment in the spirit it was made in.
Marty's idea of embossing is worth trying ... I've used thick foil (the type you find in food containers) for this before using the plastic chequer plate as the mould and using a really stiff brush( stencil brush) to burnish the foil.
As for thinning the current plate .. the way I've done this before is to cut a hole in a piece of thin brass( which is the thickness you want to achieve ) so that what I want to thin fits snugly in then stick both to a piece of wood with double sided tape , then sand on bench disc sander. The brass obviously helps to get the thickness you want and also helps keep the overall surface reasonably level - with a bit of care.
You can replace the brass with plasticard if it easier to cut the shape - in that case I would give it a quick spray with some paint so you can see when you start to sand it !
Been reading the rest of this thread .... would you mind if I had a go at this
Good point, Marty. The embossed foil could be glued to a thin piece of styrene (say, .005")
to achieve the smooth side that would be typical of a piece of diamond plate.
Quote from: gfadvance on January 27, 2010, 08:49:03 AM
As for thinning the current plate .. the way I've done this before is to cut a hole in a piece of thin brass( which is the thickness you want to achieve ) so that what I want to thin fits snugly in then stick both to a piece of wood with double sided tape , then sand on bench disc sander. Been reading the rest of this thread .... would you mind if I had a go at this
That's a GREAT idea. Thanks, G.......
Quote from: gfadvance on January 27, 2010, 08:49:03 AM
Been reading the rest of this thread .... would you mind if I had a go at this
Have at it! That's a cool piece of machinery: "Mad Max" meets "Weyerhauser".
Ken
As requested here is a shot using hot candle wax as an agent.
John
Great hardware John!!!! and the peeling paint has potential!
Ken I was not thinking diamond plate, more along the lines of the stock firewall still being there just cut down.
BUT..... you could use the diamond plate you have to emboss the foil and then back it up like you suggested!
What a good idea!... ;D
-Marty
John: I agree.....those wax results look good. One more tool for arsenal!
FYI: Last night's project was thinning down the current firewall (instead of building
a new one) to see how that would work. I laid it face-down and block-sanded the
back, which actually worked out pretty well. It DOES look much better thinned down.
(I got the steering column in and the floor & seat painted, too. Pics ASAP)
Thanks for pointing that out, G. It's a big improvement.
I can't tell you how glad I am to hear that , most importantly that it didn't ruin the piece !!!
Look forward to the update photos
Gordon
Quote from: gfadvance on January 28, 2010, 08:16:46 AM
........most importantly that it didn't ruin the piece !!!
Not to worry.......the firewall did need to be repainted, but it was early enough
(IE: no wiring in place, etc.) that refinishing didn't create a problem.
Thanks again for your 2-cents............!
It's looking fabulous, Hamilton . . . you are making great progress. I love the way the seat looks . . . great texure!
Please post some updates soon and put me out of my misery
Yea Ken,
We're dying out here waiting for more pictures of this great project :)
Rick
Sorry, guys. Real life been getting in the way and the needle on my Progress
Meter has been pointing more towards "Chuck Doan" than "Gordon Birrell"
I'm really anxious to get on this, too, especially after seeing the cool stuff
being scratchbuilt around here (IE: Rick's shovel & the 1/2" scale crane)
Thanks for your interest. That means a lot.
More pics soon............
Sure, rub it in!
Don't worry, Chuck. My modeing time has equalled yours since mid-December when I started work on the Logging Annual. But I'm wrapping up that project and may get back to the workshop in another couple of weeks. I know your feverish competitive instict won't allow you to lag behind me. We'll show 'em! -- Russ
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on April 29, 2010, 07:05:53 AM
I can't get enough of this project, either.
Come on, Rick....more photos. Quit being such a tease.
After seeing your comment to Rick ..... "pot calling kettle..." Come on,Ken you must have made some progress by now, photos please!!! ;)
Yea Ken, What he said ;D :D
Rick
Okay....I just got back to the bench last night after completing a couple of other projects
(including a Doll House kit for a friend, but that's another story....).
The 40 brackets required for the A-frame are done & I got them in place using this
tacked-together guide. It was easier than measuring......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv524%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5030001-vi.jpg&hash=b704e0f9fb1d07e5e9e752a191f4baec661e38f4)
I started by attaching the bracket going over the top of the arm and worked down from there:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv523%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5030004-vi.jpg&hash=9f662077de6791a2da6c8619e534b67470004814)
Here's a mock-up before all the brackets were attached. The top of the frame is 14-1/2" high.
In retrospect, the frame maybe could've been a tad shorter, but it should look okay with a tall
stack of lumber behind it:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages110.fotki.com%2Fv569%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5030008-vi.jpg&hash=a3566e067b764a6ea861ddf2a6c8ce693e2a936f)
Hopefully, future progress will be more timely..........
Well it's about flippin time! ;) ;D
Looks great, so tall it is hard to take it all in!
I'm glad I dont have to build those stacks of lumber to go in the scene!
The jig is a great idea too!
-Marty
Ken,
what is the benefit of this type of loading when it is not an endless chain ?
Jacq
It IS a continuous chain, Jacq...I just haven't added the loop that goes under the bottom.
That section will be added last, after the tower is permanently attached to the chassis.
Well, I guess you have yet another article here for the Industrial Annuals. I think the model looks even better than its prototype. -- Russ
Ken,
it was worth the wait, looks good but must be a "so in so" to work on as it looks so fragile and top heavy!
Slightly worried that you have not re-installed the modified firewall ;)
Quote from: gfadvance on May 04, 2010, 02:59:25 PM
Slightly worried that you have not re-installed the modified firewall
Not to worry Gordon. There are a bunch of important pieces (IE: radiator, firewell, control
rods, etc.) that still need to be attached
Russ: Sounds good to me.
Marty: You think THIS took a long time, wait'll I start the lumber stacks.......
Ken,
Welcome back :D ;D
That is looking just spectacular!
I love the spindly, spiderwebby look of the
construction.
Rick
It is kind of lacy looking, very intricate. I was wondering if some kind of counter weights will be necessary when loaded. Great looking piece of equipment Ken.
I can't wait to see how the bottom return mechanics work....
Looks difficult.
Outstanding work!
phil
Ken,
Superb!...so glad to see this progressing.......It looks both graceful and awkward at the same time. ;D
Marc
Some recent progress:
Made the gas tank by wrapping styrene around a block of wood.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages12.fotki.com%2Fv252%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5110005-vi.jpg&hash=f6a784a7786a90d08b1108f96fec245e866e2c2f)
...and cutting both ends where the wrap overlapped, creating a flush joint:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages110.fotki.com%2Fv559%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5110006-vi.jpg&hash=9f4c260d7823e88333512209dc8a33f37047397f)
I filled the seam (not that it really needed it - I just wanted to try the technique) by
slathering up the joint with liquid cement and smooshing a piece of .005" strip stock
into it. More liquid cement was brushed on for good measure:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv530%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5110008-vi.jpg&hash=7581469ebce4bf0bacfc7396918d1c6dd625ab9f)
The result was a "welded styrene" joint that disappeared once the strip was sanded down:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv523%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5120009-vi.jpg&hash=a5d47e664f1089403a89552ed04700a020575af1)
Finish included spraying the tank with Terra Cotta for a little texture, then painting it
with Jo Sonja "Earth Brown" and a few dabs of Flat Black:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages56.fotki.com%2Fv1598%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5140004-vi.jpg&hash=adcfe6cb18ee02f8299df25e43e20e8de3ae9eca)
Then I used the famous Chuck Doan Hairspray Technique under a gray topcoat, followed
by the addition of the hanger brackets. Straps will be added later:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages53.fotki.com%2Fv535%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5150015-vi.jpg&hash=93c11bb81467d2461e2c5fc67fe75b8c61dfab9c)
Here's the tank resting on the frame prior to permanent attachment:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv1594%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5150016-vi.jpg&hash=52cc5b59b3d20d389cb93926a364318a4b173eb5)
I like that finish Ken, glad to see progress is back being made on this one
Ken nice to see you back at it. looking forward to the diorama.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Who would think that a simple tank would make such a nice "model"? -- Russ
Looking good KEn!
I just borrowed the hairspray technique, normally I go for the dry look.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clicksmilies.com%2Fs1106%2Fmusik%2Fmusic-smiley-005.gif&hash=1583ffa7163bcf5bc84686ba7f1364fa91f365c4)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clicksmilies.com%2Fs1106%2Fmusik%2Fmusic-smiley-005.gif&hash=1583ffa7163bcf5bc84686ba7f1364fa91f365c4)
MR
Well it was Ken that taught me to treat each piece of a model as a model unto itself. Proof here that he practices what he preaches. (at least when it comes to modeling) Terrific look to the tank Ken.
Beautiful work as always!
Did you have to heat the styrene or anything, to get it to bend around the block and stay put? What glue did you use to attach the styrene to the wood block?
Thanks, guys.
Ray, I didn't need to heat the .005" styrene to bend it around the block and I used Walther's GOO
to glue it down. I ran a toothpick-tip of Super Glue along the edge of the joint in Photo 1, which
solidified the Goo so that surface stayed put during the bending process.
One glitch in the tank: See that little lip around the end of the tank in the first three photos?
I wanted to keep that, but when I cut the block to fit between the frame rails, I failed to take
into account the plastic caps added to each end of the block, so I had to sand off the lips so the
tank fit in the frame (Photo 4).
Duh......
Ken great progress and sbs info, I was thinking about your tall lumber stacks and was wondering how about setting it up next to a loading dock platform? This could then incorporate two very different textures and bring in more character. Just a thought. Pat
Ken,
That is gorgeous!
Hey I have a shovel that is going to be ready for paint before to much longer
What's you address? ;D ;).
Seriously though that is beautiful.
Rick
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on May 20, 2010, 04:05:13 AM
One glitch in the tank: See that little lip around the end of the tank in the first three photos?
I wanted to keep that, but when I cut the block to fit between the frame rails, I failed to take
into account the plastic caps added to each end of the block, so I had to sand off the lips so the
tank fit in the frame (Photo 4).
Duh......
Ouch.
Nice to know I'm not the only one who does stuff like that.
Ray, you think you have problems? Stop by my place next time I'm building something and you'll either laugh yourself silly or cry yourself to sleep! I may have mentioned elsewhere that I'm planning to scrap the paper structure I started earlier this year and start again from scratch (despite having nearly completed six walls). Put THAT in your pipe and smoke it! -- Russ
Use rolling paper next time Unc, much easier to smoke.
I managed to get in some building time this weekend and attached the firewall
and finished wiring (with the exception of the battery box) & plumbing the motor.
The cockpit side of the firewall has a couple of guages, a throttle cable (no pedal)
and a rotary-switch-to-nowhere just for visual effect:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages18.fotki.com%2Fv270%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5230006-vi.jpg&hash=8b3fa4d67eb197eb6da9868cd7b7ce09a7f88d02)
Radiator hoses and P/E clamps are model car aftermarket items:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv530%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5230012-vi.jpg&hash=af4e1f3cbe5926c316ff1fdb449def37ef574820)
The other side features a regulator box on the firewall and a styrene rod exhaust system.
The muffler is wired to the frame:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv242%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5230008-vi.jpg&hash=b0e2dadd909301e65f9d7b5ed89df94ee1f29f1e)
The radiator braces still need to be added and the battery box
will attach to the outside of the frame.
Thanks for all the nice comments.
Ken,
Do you by any chance have a link to the mfr of the clamps and hoses?
Marc
Ken, nice work oozes character.
Can I also ask for some info on the handbrake? ratchet - its an area I always have trouble getting right or even to look OK ..... can yo give some info as to how you made the various parts ?
Thanks
p.s. IMHO the "thinned" firewall looks a lot better!
Lacks a steering wheel but otherwise rather satisfactory. -- Russ
Looking good , Ken , but the water hoses are looking a bit new . Maybe one of them needs some tape or a rag tied around it to stop it leaking .
Sorry , I'm only trying to help you from running out of things to do .
Nick
Very nice indeed!
I must agree with my European friend though.
And the wires holding the muffler are too shiny as well.
Try using individual strands of electrical wire dipped in blacken-it.
Will be a most impressive model when completed (and not just in size)
-Marty
OOOooo......STEERING WHEEL!! I KNEW I forgot something.(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fdoh%2F2.gif&hash=ef8db072888b4580f0a2b3b0c5ae5ba52d107cf4)
Marc, here's a link for the Model Car Garage, where the clamps came from:
http://www.modelcargarage.com
I've had the ribbed hoses for quite some time and they may be out of production. They aren't MCG items
and the company that offered them might be out of business; however, they can be made by wrapping a
piece of tubing with smaller wire and coating it with that liquid-dip-stuff that's used for tool handles.
Gordon, the ratchet-thingie on the side is my version of the motor's clutch handle, which I thought was
more interesting looking than a pedal. The handle was made around a section of a watch gear using bits
of styrene & brass strip stock and wire. The handle in the middle (the one with the button on top) is a
flattened piece of stretched sprue, bend at the top end, with a small, flat sanded plastic plate on top.
The button is a flattened Tichy rivet. The entire handle is modeled after the real one in the lumber stacker
photos that Rick sent:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv738%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F8130203%2FDSCN1124-vi.jpg&hash=664a3ef63bacd9cef0156efdd33610b98fdbe64f)
Again, MANY big thanks to Rick for providing such amazing detail photos.....
Nick, the hoses are definitely too new looking, as are the clamps. Rather than make the excuse that the
hoses were recently changed, they'll be suitably weathered in the near future. Thanks for pointing that out!
The same goes for the wire holding the muffler......
Thanks for all the thoughtful comments. That's what makes you guys the best modelers out there.
Ken --
Excellent and inspiring work! I started to write a note about the "modern" looking clamps and hoses, but did some surfing ... these clamps are said to look like originals supplied on the Model T:
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/modeltparts/radiatoritems
Not quite the same as the ones you've got with the slots all around, but close enough. Of course, my old cars always came with those PIA spring-clamps that just wrapped around the hose and required pliers and swearing for removal. Hoses look a bit modern, but a little anachronism here and there doesn't hurt ... if it does, a little shrink tubing would fix that.
Thing is .. you have to ask .. "when was the vehicle abandoned?". Radiator hoses and clamps are those things that get replaced through the years - or batteries. That means that usually those 'replaceable' items would be newer/later then the original equipment/parts that just .. rust.
Malachi: The clamps in your link would've definitely been cooler, but Chuck Doan is the only
man alive who could build them, and he's kinda busy with his own projects.
eT: You're correct, too. Hoses & clamps are certainly replaced over the years so a lot depends
on the era (if any) you're trying to replicate. Pin-pointing something like that takes a lot of research
to get right, and I suppose hoses & clamps would be one way to determine a time period...but picking
that many nits is way over my head. I'll take your explanation any day.
Your phrase "...when the vehcile was abandoned...." brings up another issue with this model.
It's actually going to be displayed as a WORKING vehicle and it's bothered me for a while that
I might have gone too far with the weathering. Would an operational piece of equipment look
so "abandoned"? I'll have to see how it looks when it's done.......
I can only reply with personal knowledge about what I have actually seen and done. I spent 12 years as a tanker on the M1 through the M1A1 and all the variants between. We spent an enormous amount of time just doing maintenance on those beasts. If you slacked off a week you would be in trouble. I'll admit that there is a vast difference mechanically between the two but I'm a firm believer that times change but people really don't. We used to goto Walmart and by paint and tools out of our own pockets to keep the tanks looking as .. well .. as good as we could. I imagine that the people who were running your stacker had to have done SOME maintenance .. after all .. there is always a 'chain of command' that are quick to make 'comments' if something is wrong.
Oh go ahead and scratch your own hose clamps ;) here's a picture of some out of my stash for reference Craig
I did the wire ones on my 1/16 Death Valley Plymouth ;D ;D ;D
Actually was fairly easy once I figured it out ;)
-Marty
I think it can look this way and still be in service. Just add a slightly shiny sheen to the items that are touched (floor plates seat handles, etc.) This might be no more than some light finger burnishing. Also once you add the oil leaks etc, touch a bit of high gloss to indicate a fresh leak. Plus clutter like your yard mule to indicate current activity.
But you already knew all this.
Moving right along.......
The hoses are now weathered a little (...Nick....) and a step for the driver has been added:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv523%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5290004-vi.jpg&hash=dbd6b5cd9a8a1d853f3d90d732d3011a4a27f658)
A battery box, battery, radiator supports and the rest of the wiring are in, too.
The steering wheel DOES exist (...Russ...) but it's loose in this shot. It needs more work.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages116.fotki.com%2Fv1596%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5290006-vi.jpg&hash=1828a72a83a69b5aaa29b8696befab5ae8541115)
For a change of pace this weekend, I built a lumber cart. The frame is brass built around Grandt
Line 1/48 wheels. The finishing sequence is (1) automotive primer, (2) Rustoleum "Terra Cotta" for texture;
Quick, successive, light squirts of Floquil Rail Brown and Instant Weathering, following by a short
spritze of Primer from about 18":
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages116.fotki.com%2Fv1595%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5300002-vi.jpg&hash=5ece6f313c3bd37b92f19cd872b4b9bf64d1de77)
That was followed by thin washes of Earth Brown to tie everything together:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages110.fotki.com%2Fv569%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5300003-vi.jpg&hash=595756f1ba8c30273bc1a5e4d37ed7648a3bff80)
While that was drying, I built the wood frame which, when finished, was glued to the truck:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv529%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5300008-vi.jpg&hash=5a4dfe195a4994d8daa85c6ee92fa80f32a4890f)
The wood load finished the job:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages110.fotki.com%2Fv1539%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5300012-vi.jpg&hash=29bfab9994c88b121dddf3b2245036d0e9488f01)
For the record, here's what all this is headed towards. This mock-up shows the placement of the
components of the eventual diorama. This lumber stack will be at least twice as high and there
will be another taller one behind it. The cart will ride on rails and there will be a worn dirt path for
the Staker between the two:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages12.fotki.com%2Fv252%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5300014-vi.jpg&hash=a5504959fb6575777b7235c1ace69c4cad86b1e9)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages114.fotki.com%2Fv1606%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5300018-vi.jpg&hash=b574751a7fd4456a917fca7d6587155a0dbd9464)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages116.fotki.com%2Fv1595%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP5300020-vi.jpg&hash=58ab9af6f62eee7a26d531ac04e9d9146134a36b)
Thanks for looking. Have a safe & happy Memorial Day.
Ken,
Just magnificent, no other words can describe it.
Thanks for sharing your great effort.
Rick
Nice update ! :o
with those 3 different items side by side, the scene really comes to live !!
Looking forward to the next update ;) ;D
Most satisfactory. So far. -- Russ
Ken
Excellent job. Really looking forward to seeing it in person.
Jerry
I stumbled across this link today
http://industrialphotos.industrialartifactsreview.com/photos_06_2008/ind_photo16.htm
Its worth a look! video also
Philip
Thanks, guys. This project is now reaching the "fun" stage.
Philip, that link is fantastic!! Thanks very much for the info. Very useful indeed.
Really is coming together Ken, like the finishing touches on the engine/ battery ,etc.
That link that Phillip posted is interesting ....... you will need to build in the "steps" on your pile of lumber as per the first photo
Quote from: gfadvance on May 31, 2010, 09:02:07 AM
....... you will need to build in the "steps" on your pile of lumber as per the first photo
Most definitely! (I wondered how those guys got down......)
Nice job on the models Ken, the stacker is fantastic. Great link Philip.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Glad I found it......I was intrigued by the chain tensioner and drawing for the patent.
Philip
Ken,
coming along very nicely...
How are you going to transport this monstrum to exhibitions ??? You have a sunroof in your car :D
Jacq
Quote from: jacq01 on June 01, 2010, 12:47:04 AM.
How are you going to transport this monstrum to exhibitions ???
Heck, I'd be scared to be in the same room with this delicate beauty!
But, from this safe vantage point, I've really been enjoying the build and amazing detail. ;)
Luv that battery!
With the exception of a few details to humanize it (a tool here and there, some
paperwork near the driver, etc.) the Stacker is just about done.
Before permanently attaching the A-frame, I built the lower gears for the chain loop...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv1614%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP6050003-vi.jpg&hash=882cb866c34c56c393fa4b8f97297c7d3c5269a4)
...then finished the chain loop, added the last of the brackets, ran some control rods &
levers to the back of the machine and attached the drive chain up the tower:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages116.fotki.com%2Fv1596%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP6130011-vi.jpg&hash=49c2c25aa8b0dd2b34e5530999c3bb5754f2242c)
Getting some good overall shots of this thing will be a challenge...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages9.fotki.com%2Fv1603%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP6130015-vi.jpg&hash=25f1e7a8f3dbe9b1cbbcadea4a79deddef198837)
...but I do like this partial silhouette shot:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages12.fotki.com%2Fv539%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FP6130017-vi.jpg&hash=bbce9f4b0a35e493f8de70228db5bcccc82e6dcd)
In spite of its delicate and fragile appearance, the model is surprisingly strong
and shouldn't be too difficult to transport (with the proper carrying case).
Now it's on to the lumber stacks and the diorama base.
Thanks for all the comments along the way.
Totally unique! It does have a great delicate look. Excellent, Ken!
Fantastic!! Such a cool model!
Geez!! Don't you ever tired of making us look bad!!! I saw that someplace your doing a pretty good job of doing it to.
Ken it's just excellent I think it's the best to date by you. And you've done some real outstanding models. Looking forward to seeing this in November.
Jerry
Formidable! I hope you have been scribbling notes and shooting photos. It is cover material. -- Russ
Chapeaux............. cap off for this unique " piece of art"
Jacq
Bravo! I'm looking forward to the diorama for the stacker and material handler together.
Ken,
That is just breathtaking!
As well as everything that everybody else has already said.
I thank you for allowing me a small part in it's developement,
I'm honored.
Rick.
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on June 14, 2010, 05:06:37 PM
I thank you for allowing me a small part in it's developement,
Heck, Rick.....I should be thanking YOU. This project wouldn't have been anywhere near
as much fun without your photos. And the fact you went so far out of your way to get
them is appreciated more than you can imagine. I owe you one.........BIG time!!
Objects in rear view mirror may be larger (or taller) than they appear! ;D
Truly outstanding, amazing, unusual, fascinating and inspiring ... terrific choice of project and execution.
Your elevator is standing tall!
Hellofajob
Ken, besides the great modelling, this is really one of the most unusual models I've ever seen. Thanks for showing us unexpected places.
Thanks, guys.
Again, Rick is directly responsible for the Excessive Fun Factor associated with this project.
I'm currently building the lumber stacks for the diorama (4,000 coffee stirrers down; 6,000 to go)
and I'll be posting that phase of the project ASAP.
I still have three more boxes of stirrers to go through, but for a change of pace I started
to make the wood stacks. Earlier I showed the jig that was being used to make the layers....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv372%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F7661304%2FPB290004-vi.jpg&hash=71f60c1cad9dfa3a4ebb09b97285f21064f971b2)
...that are now being glued into stacks in a cardborad cradle that has the proper forward pitch:
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The indivdual layers are glued into place against the front edge of the jig.....
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...so the pile mirrors the angle of the stacker boom.
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Quite a few more to go (this is only about half the lumber), but we're getting there.......................
You don't find the stack construction wearisome? -- Russ
Don't forget the "steps" ;)
Quote from: finescalerr on June 27, 2010, 12:52:57 AM
You don't find the stack construction wearisome? -- Russ
Truly, I know I would be 'board' in short time.
(very sorry all, I had to.... off to the corner)
Definitely time for Wapner ...
Incredible work Ken... trust you to parallel the stacks to the angle of the boom. I missed that in the photos of the original at the beginning of the thread... went back to have another look and sure enough. It also explains the angled platform at the base of each stack. Very clever...
Paul
Russ: "Wearisome" doesn't even begin to describe it;
Gordon: Steps are forthcoming;
Chester:........(oh, nevermind)......
Malachi: Definitely;
Paul: Before ever seeing a Lumber Stacker, I thought some early
photos of tilted stacks were simply camera distortion, but a closer
look proved they were done that way on purpose!
Thanks, all............
"That's all I can stands, I can't stands n'more" - Popeye the Sailor
I've got about half a box of coffee stirrers left but can't stand the thought of gluing even one more stick.
With approx. 10% waste and a few left for other projects, this represents about 8500 sticks, give or take.
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Now I can at least lay out the diorama and play with some compositions.
Here's another view.
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I don't think the stacks are this crooked in person. I think it's just the camera angle, but I'll
go check. Too late to fix it now, though.............
I am speechless.....
This persistence ........I don't believe you haven't reached the limit yet.....you have with the Davenport entered a very dangerous episode of this diorama......
Look what such a small loco has been able to do with Mr Reusser.......
Jacq
What a remarkable accomplishment in every aspect. -- Russ
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on July 03, 2010, 07:52:31 PM
"That's all I can stands, I can't stands n'more" - Popeye the Sailor
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Ken --
This shot really "sells" the diorama ... even though the diorama hasn't been built yet! ;D
Wonderful, outstanding, crazy stuff with a great touch ... think you'll need some figures up on those piles to fully set the scene ...
Great stuff,
Dallas
What an awesome accomplishment!
<insert Marc applauding dude here.>
friggin awesome!
-Marty
Ken -
I just looked back at the very first photo at the start of this thread. Your rendition is very convincing.
Bravo!
Mark
An amazing model, Ken. As Dallas said, even without a dio the scene already looks almost perfect.
(Well, he didn't use exactly these words, but I'm sure he thought something like this).
I'm finally getting some work done after a not-too-productive week. I did manage the get the figures posed.
Now comes putty and a lot of sanding and shaping.
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So you're not going to use a bunch of "stock" figures standing around in irrelevant poses ... bummer! ;D
But seriously ... THAT'S the ticket! Sure it's a good bit of work (which has to be far more interesting than stacking the dang lumber) ... but WOW it's already obvious that these guys "belong" in the scene ... it just keeps getting better and better-er.
Cheers,
Dallas
Satisfactory. -- Russ
An impressive feat Ken, great modeling. But your LP's need to be a bit more efficient. Two guys to move one board?
Quote from: chester on July 24, 2010, 05:10:46 AM
Two guys to move one board?
After hearing a bunch of whining that it was too awkward filling the rack
with one person, I gave in and put on a second guy.
They'd go up top but they're both afraid of heights.
Maybe I'll just fire their cry-baby, plastic asses.
Two guys... no problem, looks safe and efficient. At least it's not run by CALTRANS... then there'd be at least four guys, all being paid prevailing wage: one holding a warning flag, one manning caution cones, one guy "supervising" and one poor slob doing all the board lifting. ;D ;D
Paul
milking it!
I've been working on the base (no photos of that yet) and the figures are just about done:
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I changed the right arm of the guy in the back. One hand will now be on the controls at
the back of the atcker. It looked ackward with him holding such a small board with both hands:
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More to come......
Ken
Just awesome!!! The whole project!!
Jerry
Hi Ken,
Beautiful, just beautiful.
Was this overall project visualized at one time or is it something that has taken on a life of it's own and just grown.
Well maybe I am just assuming there is an "overall project" based on some other postings and comments by you as well as others.
Whatever the case, the work and creativity are outstanding.
Rick
The figures look great, Ken! I especially like the paint job on the first guy's blue jeans, very authentic looking.
This project is approaching fruition, the little Davenport is shaping up, and I'm still waiting for the article about the lumber carrier. I want to publish all three, of course, so please spend more time modeling. I can always phone you for the text and you can just send over the hi-res photos on a disc or by e-mail. Three top notch models. I'm drooling. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on September 11, 2010, 01:29:30 AM
....and I'm still waiting for the article about the lumber carrier.....
Ooops....I KNEW there was something I was s'posed to do............. ::)
When I should have been writing, I was busy building.
Here's a quick look at the Base-In-Progress:
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The three posts on the ground are going to be holding up a small shed. The frames in the
back are permanently attached - the lumber piles will be removable.
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Fer a car guy ya sure do good railroad. -- Russ
What a fine ground texture!
Agreed... very nice groundwork and trackwork Ken or shall we call it scale terraforming... ;) I'm curious to know what are you using for a structural base and contouring before adding your dirt? The subtlety in grade change is very convincing.
Paul
Thanks, guys.....
Paul, the base was made using rigid pink insulation that was rough-shaped with
a wire wheel in an electric drill, then smoothed out with coarse sandpaper.
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The contours are subtle to keep the scene from being dead-flat and to give the edges
some visual interest. After the foam was formed I traced the contours onto fiber board,
cut it out and glued the edges to the foam base. To make sure the foam wouldn't separate
from the edge (..and fall out...) I drilled pilot holes in the fiber board and pushed 4" nails into
the foam.
See that separate foam strip in the front? That was an afterthought extension added to provide more room
for a little shed and another stack of lumber in the foreground, neither of which were originally planned.
The ties are hand-cut pine and the rail is Code 100. The groundcover is fine, sifted sand attached
in the typical fashion, then sprayed with Rustoleum American Accents "Sandstone", a finely textured
spray that tied everything together.
There's not too much going scenery-wise in a lumber yard, so I wanted to keep it "simple-yet-hopefully-somewhat-interesting".
Great progress Ken, ties/sleepers turned out well and the ground cover manges to be plain but interesting.
Can we jump back a few stages .... the figures you used are these modified from the Tamiya Pit crew? its always a challenge to find different figures in 1/24 and not just use the few available which you see in the models(and mine!)
do you have any other photos of the process you went through to modify these figures
Quote from: gfadvance on September 13, 2010, 06:25:21 AM
....do you have any other photos of the process you went through to modify these figures
Should'a, but didn't......(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fdoh%2F2.gif&hash=ef8db072888b4580f0a2b3b0c5ae5ba52d107cf4)
Basically, all I did was cut apart the figures at the joints, drill holes and insert wire-pin connectors to
reconstruct the figures and then bend them into the proper pose. Just remember to stick your wires where
the bones would be (IE: after cutting off the head, the neck wire should go into the back of the "stump",
not the middle, so the head will bend naturally)
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on September 13, 2010, 09:44:04 AM
Quote from: gfadvance on September 13, 2010, 06:25:21 AM
....do you have any other photos of the process you went through to modify these figures
Should'a, but didn't......(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fdoh%2F2.gif&hash=ef8db072888b4580f0a2b3b0c5ae5ba52d107cf4)
Basically, all I did was cut apart the figures at the joints, drill holes and insert wire-pin connectors to
reconstruct the figures and then bend them into the proper pose. Just remember to stick your wires where
the bones would be (IE: after cutting off the head, the neck wire should go into the back of the "stump",
not the middle, so the head will bend naturally)
These sound like instructions for first year surgery interns! Next weeks lesson: Re-animation!
I had found a website (military modeling) that had an article that went into depth on this .. like that to bend a figure you can't just slice a wedge out of the stomach and bend it over .. that you cut a wedge from both front and back .. and so on. Would like to find that again.
Thanks Ken for the info and photo... pretty much what I suspected, works very well and subtly is the key.
I've made bases in a similar fashion using homasote and a router set to gradually deeper cuts forming a surface much like that represented on a topographical map... messy job but it worked. Tackling homasote with a router instantly produces clouds of paper dust, definitely a job to be done outdoors. I then smoothed the contour lines with a wire brush in a body grinder (again very messy) and finalized the contours with a plaster coat and then sifted dirt.
Paul
Ed: That's a good method but I like to cut the limb, etc. off entirely & use a wire connector
because it allows for more of a pivot motion than a simple up-or-down bend.
Paul: I was a diehard Homasote Holdout until trying rigid foam one time. I really love that stuff.
Here's most of the stuff that will fit in the shed:
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When the other two walls are attached you'll only see the inside from the top (when
the lift-off roof is done)....
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...or through the door opening.
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The push is on now. The MER Convention is in 2-weeks.................
Wonderful clutter Ken... how are you making your cobwebs?
Paul
You are encroaching on Chuck's territory. Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Fantastic Ken. You've bested your camper in my opinion.
Jaime
Sweet!
Ken
How sweet it is!! A show stopper to be sure.
Jerry
Quote from: finescalerr on September 18, 2010, 01:04:22 AM
You are encroaching on Chuck's territory. -- Russ
Not even close. All this junk is just junk compared to Chuck's junk.
Thanks for all the comments. The project is finally reaching the "fun" stage (Detailing = Fun)
Paul, the cobwebs are little strands of Walthers "GOO". I put a dab on a toothpick, stick one
end on a stud and pull out a bead. They're a little oversized but the effect is there.
(Chuck would never be happy with such thick spiderwebs)
PS: GOO beads make good pizza cheese strings, too:
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Ah hah... I was thinking along those lines, though I thought they were strings of that gel-like plastic model cement that used to come in tubes that we all grew up with... very nice Ken.
Paul
I love the metal milk crate.
The building of the scene seems to have taken a new, exciting, direction with the detailing process. It's exciting to see what you've already done.
That pizza with the cheese stuck to the lid of the box is a great little detail!
Ken
The fun one can have in such a small space. Looking forward to the seeing it all together.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Plugging right along......
The motor is wired and the paint is almost done on the Gn15 Critter.
Still needs some details, though.
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This (...added all the final details...) is the FUN part.
Thanks for all the comments.
That shed is great! Good spiderwebs.. and pizza cheese?...only Ken would do that.
Love the critter. But no duct tape on the seat? Excellent blend of car/RR modeling!
Satisfactory thus far. I know you'll come up with another couple of magic touches. Some of the projects on this site leave me reeling in stunned disbelief. -- Russ
Ken, what a wonderful paint work on the critter. In my opinion, it could even be described as 'Very satisfactory' without exaggeration...
Good to see you don't shoot all the critters within close proximity. Cool loco Ken.
Wow!....this all just too cool. Really is the bees-knees! wonderful attention to detail. What a great series of builds. Really enjoying watching it all come together.
Marc