I have the attention span of a gnat, so here is the latest distraction from my workshop.
One of my future projects is a saloon coach in 0m gauge:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Ftb_naatid%2F010_kongevogn.jpg&hash=64f265467045ddb5fd2b3ed4823e586d3b267d7b)
Since the main focus will be on the fantastic interior of the coach, the mechanism must be strictly under the floor.
I found some inspiration for how to approch the problem of building powered trucks:
http://www.clag.org.uk/ (http://www.clag.org.uk/)
I have a bit more space to play with than these 4mm scale (1/76 ) modellers, so I began toying with the idea of using a Faulhaber precision motor with an integrated gearhead.
I purchased an 15mmX12mm motor (Including the gear!) from an german company named Lemo Solar
( http://www.lemo-solar.de/ (http://www.lemo-solar.de/) ) to test the concept . The plan is to use up to 4 traction motors just like the prototype.
The size of the motor looks just right besides the wheelset it is supposed to power:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FMotorboggie%2Foppsett_w_02.jpg&hash=07acc9c107145a51f694acdd70ccb65aeeec369d)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FMotorboggie%2Foppsett_w_01.jpg&hash=e870807aa1f81fa89ccc81c8e6fe13bbbff86cd2)
But what about sound? For some reason I suspected that such small gearheads could be real whiners, and I did not want to invest in 4 of the little buggers just to find out that they screamed like a choir of banshees.
So I recorded the sound of the engine and compared it to the engine I used for the mechansm of my Westinghouse engine. That engine is whisper quiet and a really smooth runner.
Here are the results:
http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/bilder/Motorboggie/1512.wav (http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/bilder/Motorboggie/1512.wav)
http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/bilder/Motorboggie/2224.wav (http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/bilder/Motorboggie/2224.wav)
The first recording is the smaller motor with the gearhead. Its not to bad, remember that the mtor was placed almost on the top of the microphone. The second recording sounds quite noisy, but in reality, that engine as mentioned above is really quiet.
This might seem a strange subject to make such a fuzz about, but I am planning to run my models "al fresco" with no artificial sound added, so I want the model motors to sound nice on their own. No sound decoder in other words.
Well, enough for tonight.
Tomorrow I might get around to do some actual modelling!
Regards, Håvard H
Cool project. Where did you get those neat spoked wheel sets?
Should be another neat project!
Great idea!
Keep us up to speed please.
I have a project in the works that will need a small reliable motor
A small planetary gear set would be perfect too.
-Marty
Hmm ... må få inn de mørke månedene av vinteren ..... du har altfor mye tid på hendene. ;) :D ;D
Nice subject choice. Looks like it will be another great project to follow. I Look forward to it.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 12, 2009, 11:39:22 PM
Hmm ... må få inn de mørke månedene av vinteren ..... du har altfor mye tid på hendene. ;) :D ;D
I second whatever Marc said. God I hope its a good thing. It will be great thread to follow along with.
Jerry
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 12, 2009, 11:39:22 PM
Hmm ... må få inn de mørke månedene av vinteren ..... du har altfor mye tid på hendene. ;) :D ;D
Nice subject choice. Looks like it will be another great project to follow. I Look forward to it.
Distant Norwegian roots or Google translate? ;D
Regarding the progress of this project, I must inform you that this is one for the long haul.
As I said, I am not going to compromise on the interior. I only have some poor shots of the interior (shamelessly stolen from the web), but it might give some idea about the task at hand:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fkongevogna%2Finterior_03.jpg&hash=dc0ddd77af527df257642ccaca553b447ac817d2)
The interior has an extreme amount of carved decoration and relief wallpaper, and the only solution for a detailed model I can think of is to use a handheld 3D scanner and make a digital model that then can be 3D printed or CNC machined. I lean towards the last option, but that requires acess to a hispeed CNC milling machine. It would have been so cool to machine the interior parts in real wood! The endmills for CNC machines are available in diameters down to 0,3mm, so it should be possible to most of the detail.
I am not sure if the handheld scanners are good enough for a task like this yet, but I would love to look into it!
This project is not only a modelling project, but it is also the ultimate way of making a documentation of an extremly rare and valuable museum piece. The project could be seen as a digital back up.
By the way, I think 3D scanning of prototype parts and material for printing and milling in 3D is the next frontier for CAD assisted modelling!
That could be a neat way to do it. I was at one point thinking of sending my die-cast tractor out to be 3D scanned so I could replicate others for future projects. So far, this service seems mostly aimed at reverse engineering applications for industry, and I have not yet found a hobby level price.
The carved woodwork in that car is amazing! That kind of intricate detail would be difficult to model.
Hey Hauk,
What scale do you plan on doing this in?
Mike
Hauk,
I use too, this motor gearhead from Faulhaber since a few years...This extra flat gearhead are the best I have ever seen, and they are the smallest I have found! Before I used the Faulhaber motor gearhead 2020...but biggest...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages19.fotki.com%2Fv18%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FIMG_1273-vi.jpg&hash=c1667e17abc3e963c9d442191c70faa3cecbaf46)
http://www.faulhaber.com/servlet/com.itmr.waw.servlet.Anzeige?fremdaufruf=ja&kdid=40929&sprachid=1&htdigurl=/n170324/i91166.html
http://www.faulhaber.com/uploadpk/EN_1512SR_DFF.pdf
The 1512 compared to the 2020
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages38.fotki.com%2Fv231%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FIMG_1276-vi.jpg&hash=1b70782018e80185d2cfdd1b9276ce9398a6a58b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv640%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FIMG_1280-vi.jpg&hash=e80efe33bbbedbe096a5a2b9f6e7a119e5f386ad)
Do not worry about noise, this core less motor gearhead and core less motor in general are probably the more silent on the market!
I'll use next time this 1512 gearhead for a new gas loco in 1:35 scale... ;)
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on October 13, 2009, 11:43:32 AM
Hauk,
I use too, this motor gearhead from Faulhaber since a few years...This extra flat gearhead are the best I have ever seen, and they are the smallest I have found! Before I used the Faulhaber motor gearhead 2020...but biggest...
Nice that others have tried this motor!
Where do you buy them and at what price? I paid € 42 (+postage) for mine at Lemo Solar in Germany. It sure add to the cost of the model, if I really need 4 of them pr. engine.
Have you been able to test the pulling powers of these motors?
One thing I find confusing is that there seems to be an discrepancy between the data in the Faulhaber data sheet and the info on the Lemo Solar web store. In the data sheet it says that the 39:1 motor has an output speed of 129 RPM. But LemoSolar claims that the RPM is 307 RPM, wich is correct for my use. I fear that it is more likely that Faulhabers datasheet has the correct ratio. Do you have an idea, Franck?
By the way, I went back to your photo-pages for a recap on your models, and they sure are some of the nicest little critters around!
Mike: The model will be in 1:45, the Scandinavian flavour of 0-gauge!
If you can get at the woodwork, a 3D pantograph such as a Deckel GK-21 could whip it right out.
John
Quote from: John McGuyer on October 13, 2009, 04:21:42 PM
If you can get at the woodwork, a 3D pantograph such as a Deckel GK-21 could whip it right out.
John
Hmm, doesnt the Deckel GK-21 have a maximum reduction of 1:10? That is an bigger model than I originally planned! ;D
Quote from: Hauk on October 13, 2009, 03:20:41 PM
Where do you buy them and at what price? I paid € 42 (+postage) for mine at Lemo Solar in Germany. It sure add to the cost of the model, if I really need 4 of them pr. engine.
I bought my gearhead like you at Lemo Solar for the same price + postage and packing! You can buy it directly from Minimotor (Faulhaber) but they are a little bit more expensive, €48.00...
Quote from: Hauk on October 13, 2009, 03:20:41 PMHave you been able to test the pulling powers of these motors?
Yes, and they are sufficiently powerful for our use!
Quote from: Hauk on October 13, 2009, 03:20:41 PMOne thing I find confusing is that there seems to be an discrepancy between the data in the Faulhaber data sheet and the info on the Lemo Solar web store. In the data sheet it says that the 39:1 motor has an output speed of 129 RPM. But LemoSolar claims that the RPM is 307 RPM, wich is correct for my use. I fear that it is more likely that Faulhabers datasheet has the correct ratio. Do you have an idea, Franck?
Hum...I think like you, Faulhaber's datasheet has the correct ratio!
Quote from: Hauk on October 13, 2009, 03:20:41 PMBy the way, I went back to your photo-pages for a recap on your models, and they sure are some of the nicest little critters around!
Thanks for the kind words!
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on October 13, 2009, 11:43:32 AM
I'll use next time this 1512 gearhead for a new gas loco in 1:35 scale... ;)
Franck
Franck ,
You talk about building a gas (mechanical?) loco in 1/35th scale . I believe you told me that it is going to be American , can you give a bit more information as I know that there are a number of people here , and elsewhere, who have been talking about building these sorts of locos in either the same scale or 1/32nd . I am sure they would be interested to hear about it , as , of course, I would ,
Nick
Yes the Deckel has a maximum of 10/1. So you do it in multiple steps. We've used parts made for 1" models as patterns for smaller models with great success. In this case, it would be that first step that would be hard. Getting that wood piece in the machine. Of course you could always do a larger model by hand then do that really difficult small pattern with the pantograph. The nice thing is that pantographs are cheap these days compared to CNC machines. And they don't require a computer with expensive CAD/CAM programs. Really, really wish I had room for one, but my little corner of a garage barely has room for my basic machinery.
John
Here is a link for making your own pantograph
How to Build a Pantograph http://www.peter.com.au/articles/pantograph.html
Just in case someone wants to make their own
Mike
Quote from: shropshire lad on October 14, 2009, 10:43:10 AM
Franck ,
You talk about building a gas (mechanical?) loco in 1/35th scale . I believe you told me that it is going to be American , can you give a bit more information as I know that there are a number of people here , and elsewhere, who have been talking about building these sorts of locos in either the same scale or 1/32nd . I am sure they would be interested to hear about it , as , of course, I would ,
Nick
Hi Nick,
Yes of course I can! It would be freelance models but inspired by 3 tons gas mechanical locos from Plymouth (TL or RL type) or Whitcomb...
A Plymouth model RL :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv393%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059327%2FBRIQUETTERIEDEMARLY012-vi.jpg&hash=c82d9baab43d9e79732f3cedf59881d6ca0cc806)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv319%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059327%2FBRIQUETTERIEDEMARLY061-vi.jpg&hash=8866cbc77f6673e693fb749eba0fd7376eead8e6)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages53.fotki.com%2Fv1578%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059327%2FBRIQUETTERIEDEMARLY066-vi.jpg&hash=76d893ac090e849cf8db45639fffd087edf40523)
These photos were taken by my friend Philippe Paillon on the Chimot's brickworks at Marly, near Valenciennes, North of the France...
http://www.briqueterie-chimot.fr/
http://www.ingr.co.uk/chimot.html
A Plymouth model TL :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railpictures.net%2Fimages%2Fd1%2F1%2F1%2F1%2F4111.1223788510.jpg&hash=8181c1c71d73b2dbeb0e7a5568dde62e6303773a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bcarchives.gov.bc.ca%2Fcgi-bin%2Fwww2i%2F.visual%2Fimg_med%2Fdir_33%2Fna_06122.gif&hash=362b20afe993cfff8d56001ebc251614403de509)
A Whitcomb model 5DM (?) :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv319%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059382%2FWHITCOMB201LEERS-vi.jpg&hash=2aff421c3d61967fd83083e49c3c621f12db9d8a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages41.fotki.com%2Fv305%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059382%2FWHITCOMB202LEERS-vi.jpg&hash=5c3cd3393bf14d4d14f1986aee0b8ced0e87bee2)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages46.fotki.com%2Fv1452%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1222910%2F8059382%2FWHITCOMB1001LEERS-vi.jpg&hash=7e140437e9e194863f891567887756e145159606)
These photos were again taken by my friend Philippe Paillon on the North's brickworks at Leers, North of the France...
http://www.briquedeleers.fr/
http://www.ingr.co.uk/leers.html
Franck
Some progress on the SPUD project.
Here are two concept sketches:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svensktmjforum.se%2Fforum%2Fuploads%2F7%2F1512_boggi_2.jpg&hash=bf6df80c7f7125962bbc182e6afb1010cac35691)
The initial idea was to use motion belts and pulleys for transfering power from motor to wheels (upper drawing).
But I am starting to have second thoughts about this, as the efficiency probably aint all that great, and there are lots of pulley wheels to be machined.
So I looked into a Polish supplier (http://www.shop.kkpmo.com/) of gears, and found module 0,3 gears that looked suitable for the setup. I think I read somewhere that brass against brass is not a good idea in drivelines, so I plan to use one brass and one polyacetal gear for each axle.
Anyone that have opinions on my setup?
And do anyone kor how much teeth "overlap" you need when meshing up two module 0,3?
Regards, Hauk
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FMotorboggie%2Foppsett_w_02.jpg&hash=07acc9c107145a51f694acdd70ccb65aeeec369d)
Thinkering continues on my SPUD. I want to have 3-point suspension on my trucks, and to achive this, I will make one axle (and that axles motor) rotate around an axle placed parallell to the rails.
In this section, two possible locations (in red and green) for this axle is shown:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftverraksel.jpg&hash=db2f24688b0017fa0f0aa7281dd4ed84ea0b9d8a)
Alternative "red" makes the wheels move a bit more sideways than positon "green". In this detail you can see the lateral movement a bit better. Both the red and green wheelset has been rotated exactly 1 deg. The black is the wheelset with the wheel axle in an exact horizontal position.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftverraksel2.jpg&hash=381bf5da602e90e9d99a61fde34a944330c8ec00)
I want to go for alternative red for placing the axle, but I wonder if it could give me problems to place it so high.
Comments or suggestions?
Regards, Hauk
Interesting....
.....but I have to admit......you lost me several posts back :-\ ;)
..... please do continue with posting this project.......I am interested in learning from it.
MR
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 01, 2009, 01:30:18 PM
Interesting....
.....but I have to admit......you lost me several posts back :-\ ;)
..... please do continue with posting this project.......I am interested in learning from it.
Well, I get lost myself from time to time, but please let me know when I fail to explain myself!
This last "problem" is more based on intuition than any hard facts, so I might be just blowing smoke here.
Hope to be able to present a more detailed design in the near future.
But don´t hold your breath, I will probably disappear from the radar for a couple of weeks due to a trip to Egypt. Life is more than models!
Regards, Hauk
Havard:
I would definitely consider going with two different gear materials as you mention, one brass & one polyacetal. I expect you'll find it much smoother and certainly quieter. Concerning your axle design, I must admit I'm a little lost on that too, not quite sure what you mean by "I will make one axle (and that axle's motor) rotate around an axle placed parallel to the rails."
I've come across quite a few research papers online concerning optimum wheel-to-rail contact, flange angles and wheel profiles for prototype railroads. I found them doing research on the correct English prototype wheel profile for the radial axle project. Most of them were way more complex and mathematically incomprehensible to my mind, but you may want to do a similar search.
Safe travels to Egypt... is this business or pleasure?
Paul
on the suspension;
a lot of H0 finescale guys use a [ shaped frame which pivots around an axle (your red axle) so you shouldn't have a problem there from a suspension point of view.
I am also very interested in the way you intend to link the motors to the axles in combination with the suspension.
Looking forward to the next updates .
Lemaco is using already for years a pivot axis like Havard shows (red point)
This axis is also used as driveline with two wormwheels mounted over the matching gears of the wheel axis.
That way it is possible to fit all axle bearings with springs and have a fixed drive point for the motor attchment.
Single axle drivemotors is also common with the larger scales by firms like Kiss etc..
Jacq
Hauk,
I have used in the past this type of 3 points compensation with a pivot bolt on my Gmeinder, without problem !
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages34.fotki.com%2Fv1075%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5748478%2Fgmr09-vi.jpg&hash=72011df0dd9c0b1e908e5e10cdc61979824cb339)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages53.fotki.com%2Fv431%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2F3POINTS1-vi.jpg&hash=04a4ec5658ed904c2109337cb104939d1ecea723)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1479%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2F3points2-vi.jpg&hash=2134071ef33f8613a7ee1c38395870fbcb2d6a17)
Franck
Quote from: Roughboy on December 01, 2009, 09:09:35 PM
Havard:
I would definitely consider going with two different gear materials as you mention, one brass & one polyacetal. I expect you'll find it much smoother and certainly quieter. Concerning your axle design, I must admit I'm a little lost on that too, not quite sure what you mean by "I will make one axle (and that axle's motor) rotate around an axle placed parallel to the rails."
I've come across quite a few research papers online concerning optimum wheel-to-rail contact, flange angles and wheel profiles for prototype railroads. I found them doing research on the correct English prototype wheel profile for the radial axle project. Most of them were way more complex and mathematically incomprehensible to my mind, but you may want to do a similar search.
Safe travels to Egypt... is this business or pleasure?
Paul
I promised that I would disappear from the radar for a couple of weeks, but even in my rather dingy Cairo Hotel they have got free WLAN!
As for the gears, I have ordered brass and polyacetal module 0,3 gears.
Regarding the rather cryptic description of the mechanism, the drawings of the SPUD are somewhat misleading. They Show a rigid type of frame with no pivoting axels at all.
My mind move faster than I can draw, so I havent gotten around to make drawings that are consistent with what I am trying to explain.
But take a look at this page:
http://www.clag.org.uk/ (http://www.clag.org.uk/)
Look under "Micromotor suite", here you will find something similiar to what I am planning. My design will be simpler, since all the reducton neccesary is done in the motors intergrated gearhead.
Think of the motor/wheelset as a "package" that are fully intergrated with each other. If you move the wheelset, the motor moves with it.
So when the wheelset svivels, the motor svivels with it.
Please have patience with me on this one, It will all become clear when i post new drawings!
For now we can just as well refer to Fredericks drawing. I have earlier made a drive that basically uses the same principle, so I am pretty confident that the concept is sound when you place the center of the pivot bolt/ pivot axle so it almost or exactly crosses the centerline of the wheelsets axle.
So my concern was: What happens when you place the pivoting point much higher, as shown in my concept sketches?
An enigma almost on par with how the pyramids was built. Wich brings us back to my Egypt trip (smooth transition, I dare say!). It is an combined business & pleasure affair. First 10 days taking pictures for a research project on how the building sites of the pyramids was organised (no less) and then 4 days hanging out in Cairo with my wife .
To avoid any smart-ass coments, no, it is not the first 10 days that is the pleasure part. :)
Regards, Hauk
QuoteSo my concern was: What happens when you place the pivoting point much higher, as shown in my concept sketches?
Hauk
Many moons ago I built a couple of trammer models using a couple of the old-type pressed-metal Exactoscale gearboxes on a lay shaft for the final drive. For the equalisation I soldered a piece of rod to the cover (crossways to the axle) on one gearbox on each mechanism and mounted the gearbox so this rod rode on the underside of one of the PC board frame spacers. The axle bearings (top hat type - these were inside-framed mechanisms) could move vertically in the frame plates, but with minimal sideplay. The other wheelset and gearbox in each mechanism was fixed rigidly in the frame. A universal joint in the lay shaft allowed the moveable wheelset and gearbox to rock around the piece of rod as in any other 3-point suspension. This arrangement, of course, put the pivot point fairly high above the axle, much as you are proposing. It was one of the few aspects of the mechanisms that worked out fine (1024 open frame motors, NWSL flea transfer gearboxes and epoxied joints in split axles right next to bearings, not so much), so I see no reason why your design shouldn't work.
Can someone explain to me what is the purpose of having a "pivot point" on the axle? Seems to me, if the axle has springs, each end would go up or down, following any imperfections of the track, regardless of whether there is a pivot. But then, I'm not very experienced with mechanical stuff. So... what am I missing here?
Hi Ray
what the pivot on one axle will achieve is a 3-point suspension system. This ensures that all wheels are on the rail [within reason] in the same way that a 3-legged milking stool is always stable. this form of suspension works very well since it does not alter the coupler hight in any way and will allow the belt tension to remain [almost] constant.
the added benefit of this arrangement is that the crucial cross helical gear mesh is not in any way jeopardised by the suspension arrangement since this axle is "fixed" in its position.
By the way there is a fundamental problem with the belt drive chassis shown in this thread insofar that the axles captive in the frame, i.e. the axles cannot be removed without taking a wheel off on each axle. Unfortunately with a neoprene belt drive it is imperative that the axles be removable from the chassis to allow belt replacement. Depending on various factors regular belt replacement is unfortunately a fact of life.
Hope this answers your question.
have fun
Bernard
@ Ray,
Pivot point is a 3 points compensation system. For locos with small number of wheels, like little gas locos like mind, springs are very often difficult to adjust and set up...
For four wheels locos, the leading axle must be in fixed bearings and it's the only possible driving axle. The rear axle is carried in bearing that are allowed a small amount of vertical movement from the axle centreline with a central pivot point to both control height and allow pivoting. Pivot point can be make with a support bar, a bolt (like my model, I used a slotted socket head bolt) or a simple rod.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clag.org.uk%2Fpics%2Fdigest41-0%2Ffig34a.gif&hash=8c3ec0cd4c03a876b91374ca7027f364fb700733)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clag.org.uk%2Fpics%2Fdigest41-0%2Ffig34b.gif&hash=fd28b85f77cc461c31d1ddf69c79ec22a312ae07)
The advantage of the bolt placed vertically is that the rear axle can be trimmed exactly horizontal by adjusting this bolt!
Have a look at this digest :
http://www.clag.org.uk/41-0rev.html#section1
@ Bernard,
I use 1mm dia. O-rings belt drive. The material isn't neoprene, but nitro-butene (or nitrile rubber), a high quality artificial rubber.
I agree that with my frame concept, the O-ring cannot be changed easily, and the frame side cannot be removed without taking the wheels off on each axle...however, there is no need until now, the loco has already run more 50 hours at home and on exhibition service, without problem...So, belt replacement isn't as frequent as we could imagine! And with a Puller or equivalent it's easy to take off the wheel on each axle, and I made a jig to mount the wheels on his axle and to have quickly the good back to back size wheels ;) ;)
Franck