Seems like I havent bothered you gentlemen with any pictures of my 0m (1/45 scale, 22,2mm gauge) gauge boxcab electric building project in a while, if ever.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fuploads2%2Fhele_w_01.jpg&hash=ac462387e79155ca177cdcac6b065df01dd2f3dd)
Have been working on this model on and off for more years than I care to think about, but I am hoping to finish it pretty soon!
The model is mainly etched brass with some lost-wax brass castings.
Currently I am working on the pantograph (That picture with the P. raised and ready is a fake, it is stuck together with white glue just for the photosession...).
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpanto_funda.jpg&hash=dad00f9ca5458f69be6d284166d548e2aa80e265)
The white "ceramic" isolators are machined teflon rod, a great material for this use since it is heat resistant and you can solder right up against it!
Since this is my first scratchbuilt model ever, I have to learn as I go. So the first pantograph will be a semi-operational one, since I realised that to rivet together a fully functional set of bars and piston, a lot of the parts would have to be assembled before soldering up everything.
In this picture all the parts have moving links:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpanto_beveg.jpg&hash=67fbec9422f7357287e03969d41835f8cc6e89bd)
It takes some practise to tighten up the joints and still have them loose engough to move freely.
Up next is the rest of the assembly of the pantograph. Stillwondering how to keep everything in just the right place while soldering up everything.
To be continued!
Regards, Håvard H
Just beautiful, as we have seen from you before. True art in scratchbuilding.
Beautiful! Like a Swiss watch.
Hey Hauk,
Now that is some of the smallest high level craftsmanship that I have seen in many years.
(and I do believe the last time was looking at a nice watch)
It is just beautiful...
Mike
Thanks for the positive feedback!
But belive me, there is plenty of room for improvement. My soldering skills are very basic, for starters. Some times I am so frustrated when things gets out of alignment, parts get accidently desoldered or blobs of solder gather in the wrong places. Not to mention the (literarely) total meltdown of parts that happens occasionally.
So the main reason I have gotten this far is mainly because I am a stubborn b****rd. I do, and redo over and over again.
And I search the net like a google index-bot for webpages, discussion forums and companies that can aid my modelling. And I ask. On forums, in real life, in emails, on conventions and meetings.
And I do not limit myself to railroad modelling, or even modelling. I have studied webpages on watcmaking, goldsmithing (can you say that?), miniature cannonbuilding, you name it. Any craft that involves small parts and delicate work will catch my interest. You can learn something in the strangest places. I have for instance discovered a lot of interesting tools on jewellers webpages.
Another of my modelling secret is this: I cheat a lot. I am still not capable og turning and assembling a set of wheels to finescale standards. The wheels for this engine is the work of a truly gifted danish modeller named Erik Olsen. His models is the "gold standard" for my work. Take a look for yourself:
http://www.modelbaneteknik.dk/model/index-e.htm (http://www.modelbaneteknik.dk/model/index-e.htm)
(Unfortunately, some of the best stuff is Danish only)
I cheat in other ways as well. Even if I designed all the etched parts for this engine using CAD, I did not etch myself. In England there are several companies that are happy to do work for modellers, even if you are just ordering a single Letter-size or A4 sheet:
http://www.ppdltd.com/index.html (http://www.ppdltd.com/index.html)
http://www.photo-etch.co.uk/ (http://www.photo-etch.co.uk/)
And don´t be put down by the somewhat basic webdesign of these pages, it by no means reflect the quality of their etchings!
The quality is superb, and the etched parts are the totally central in my project. I would strongly urge ambitious modellers to take a look into making your own etched kits. There are unlimited potential here. I will answer any question on the subject as best as I can.
The ultimate "cheat sheet" must be CNC. I am thrilled by the possibillities here, but I have little access to CNC machinery since leaving Architectural school.
If you have seen this before, bear with me, but Its my favourite example of what a CNC mill can do:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ffeste_spennstag.jpg&hash=2a4f97804cad8fe4b1b4ff463877f47e39a927dc)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ffeste_spennstag2.jpg&hash=3aa29d938522efd207bbfe48458eeefaeb14087e)
It´s more like a custom made kit than a truly scatchbuilt model in a way.
But lets not forget that plain old machining is quite useful (and more fun, really):
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fspennstag.jpg&hash=8fedffac55759b4d0440b3c2928314bf6384e354)
This turnbuckle was turned on a small hobby-late and the slot was milled by soldering all the tb´s in a straight line on a brass plate and using an endmill to make the slot.
So if anyone have tips & tricks on soldering, machining in brass or any other related subject, get in the thread! Feel free to hijack the thread, digressions are welcome.
Regards, Håvard H
Truly outstanding craftsmanship. And excellent photos, too! Thank you very much for posting them. -- Russ
Perfection at its finest. Beautiful work.
Jerry
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on September 10, 2009, 04:15:39 AM
Perfection at its finest. Beautiful work.
Jerry
Thanks a lot for the kind words!
I am not putting myself down here, but what we actually are looking at is some extremely precise photoetched parts soldered and riveted together with quite average skills.
Anyone capabel of making semi-technical drawings in a Vector-based illustration software like Adobe Illustrator or CorelDraw could make kits/parts with similiar quality.
Regards, Håvard H
WOW!!!.....(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Ffainting%2F1.gif&hash=eb199028c1fcca6b2e8d222b7aa3c8d5db98199d)......This knocked me out!
If you posted this before, I missed it, Hauk. What fantastic work!!!
The mass-produced clevises are outstanding, as are the turnbuckles.
EVERYTHING is so well-done it's almost beyond words.
Great job, Havard. Can't wait to see more.
Beautiful work Hauk... love those clevises :o. This is porn for us machinists in miniature ;)
Thanks for posting and keep us updated on the progress.
Paul
Quote from: Roughboy on September 10, 2009, 07:18:12 PM
Beautiful work Hauk... love those clevises :o. This is porn for us machinists in miniature ;)
Thanks for posting and keep us updated on the progress.
Paul
"Clevises", so thats what they are called in English! Frankly, I am not really sure what they are called in Norwegien...
By the way, If anyone think that CNC is just a matter of pressing a button (besides preparing the CAD-files), please bear in mind that these parts are made on a 3-axis machine. This means that the workpiece had to be turned 90deg between two sessions of milling. Manually repositioning the workpiece with totally accuracy is quite a challenge!
Paul, it was really your postings on the On3 shay that inspired med to get off my A. and start working on my Westinghouse project again. Hope to see a lot more postings of your work!
May I make a suggestion for soldering a strip of parts as you are doing and don't want them to move? Get some ceramic foam and T-pins from Micro Mark. Then you can pin them down and they won't move as you solder them.
John
Quote from: John McGuyer on September 13, 2009, 12:07:54 PM
May I make a suggestion for soldering a strip of parts as you are doing and don't want them to move? Get some ceramic foam and T-pins from Micro Mark. Then you can pin them down and they won't move as you solder them.
John
Funny you should mention it!
Just a few days ago I tried to order said items from MM. But unforunately, the ceramic foam was out of stock.
I have ordered some samples of machinable ceramics for making soldering jigs, but if anybody have tried the ceramic foam I would love to hear their opinion on their usability.
This is why I suggested it. I use it all the time. I am presently doing a 1/32 stock car that has all the underside brake details which has strings of pieces similar to what you are doing.
John
Machinable ceramics...? Interesting. I'm curious to learn more about that material. I'm still working with an old block of asbestos... don't tell the EPA ;)
Paul
Quote from: John McGuyer on September 13, 2009, 04:42:05 PM
This is why I suggested it. I use it all the time. I am presently doing a 1/32 stock car that has all the underside brake details which has strings of pieces similar to what you are doing.
Would be nice to see some pictures and hear a little more on your soldering techniques & materials!
Sorry! When I first started coming on this forum, I was all excited about posting projects. Unfortunately there was virtually no interest in what I make.
John
Quote from: John McGuyer on September 14, 2009, 09:05:52 AM
Sorry! When I first started coming on this forum, I was all excited about posting projects. Unfortunately there was virtually no interest in what I make.
John
I am sorry to hear that, but for the best of my life I can not recall any postings on projects of this kind.
I can only apologize for sleeping in class, and urge you to reconsider posting again.
John,
QuoteSorry! When I first started coming on this forum, I was all excited about posting projects. Unfortunately there was virtually no interest in what I make.
What about your large scale locomotive and gondola ? These posts enjoyed a lot of attention.
Jacq
Hauk,
What happens is when there are no comments at all, a topic is quickly replaced by more popular ones. That is why you don't remember them
Jacq,
Quite to the contrary, I made many postings on both and got zero comments and virtually no lookers.
There is no problem and I'm not upset, I'm quite happy building my trains. I just thought I could contribute to the whole and apparently what I offer is not what people want to see.
John
Hauk:
Absolutely beautiful work. Thanks for posting this project. very interesting to see your approach and methods used to make the parts. thanks for the Etching link.
John:
I am probably guilty of not posting in the gondola thread.....but it was not directed at your project personally.....as with this thread, Paul's shay thread, Gerds thread, and other threads that involve such fine and beautiful brass-work, and machining, I find that I have very little to offer and contribute (as I have no metal working skills whatsoever)...other than continually saying "great work"...which gets boring on my part...and does nothing to help the thread along......so I tend to just sit in amazement, and enjoy watching them develop and learn what I can from them.
When or where I feel I can make a worthwile contribution, I always try to do so........otherwise I just tend to be quiet an watch.
Marc
Hey, McGuyer! Quitcher bellyachin' and post more stuff! (You know I always appreciate it.) -- Russ
Hauk,
Great stuff!
I love the machining - may get me back on the Corliss!
I would love to learn CAD and do some photoetching but I think I am too old to learn it in time to use it!
Please keep posting, especially the Step by step.
-Marty
Marc, it isn't your responsibility to comment on every posting and all who know me will tell you I'm not interested in accolades. I do however want to know if people are interested, or am I just wasting my time that I could be building.
So I want to direct my remarks to all you lurkers. You guys out there who come look, but never post any remarks. For crying out loud guys, you have some of the best, most innovative modelers available anywhere to answer your questions. They are willing, no scratch that, anxious to tell you how they did it. Or suggest how you might do something on your favorite project. Not only do you have super painters, but great machinists and builders. Just look at this beautiful box cab Hauk is building. The thing is incredible. Ask him about it. Uncle Russ posted some paper models. PAPER mind you! And virtually nobody asked him about them. What a loss! If you can't afford to risk a sheet of paper in your inkjet, you had best go grab a beer and sit mindlessly in front of the boob tube. There was some guy from Japan on MLS that was doing incredible stuff with paper. I would love to see Uncle pursue more but he doesn't think you are interested. Check out the stuff from Jerry Barnes. He may not build museum quality models, and he will be the first to tell you so, but talk about innovation. Home Depot is not safe when Jerry arrives. Ask him about how to do something. These people will just quit posting as I have done as they think you don't care.
This forum is without peer. The very best modelers are here and willing to share with you. You just have to post and don't tell them "Nice job" or "Gee! I wish I could build like that". Rather ask them "How did you do thus and so"? Or "Do you have a method or source for that".
Just remember you lurkers that if you don't post something in the comments section, these topics will very rapidly sink into oblivion and you will never find out what you wanted to know.
John
Not to get off-topic, but whatever you happen to build, or whoever you happen to be,
posting ongoing projects here is definitely NOT a waste of modeling time. For any number
of reasons ("time" being one of them) I don't respond to all the threads I read...probably not
many of us do...but that doesn't mean I don't appreciate them and learn from them.
I encourage everyone to simply keep the in-progress pictures coming, comments or not.
Anyway, this boxcab is amazing.
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on September 15, 2009, 10:13:17 AM
Not to get off-topic, but whatever you happen to build, or whoever you happen to be,
posting ongoing projects here is definitely NOT a waste of modeling time. For any number
of reasons ("time" being one of them) I don't respond to all the threads I read...probably not
many of us do...but that doesn't mean I don't appreciate them and learn from them.
I encourage everyone to simply keep the in-progress pictures coming, comments or not.
Anyway, this boxcab is amazing.
Thanks a lot for the kind words, all of you! I would be a liar if I denied that all the praise is a grat confidence booster!
But there is more to posting than that. This forum is one of the very few where people dare to offer constructive criticism. It would be a shame if that changed. I post to trigger suggestions and others experiences, including critical comments.
I would also love it if I could inspire others to start similiar projects, as It would add to the collective knowledge of the forum.
It also feel that it would be a great shame if people starts to feel that "atta boy" posts are mandatory. The value of the nice words could easily become devaluated. But please bear in mind that I´m a Norwegian, and that means I am a member of one of the more low-key species on the planet (at least when we are sober). Our idea of cheering wildly is a muted "nice" and a little nod... Maybe I have been a little too stingy with my praise of others work, but I feel that I should have something more substantional to offer than just a mouthful of adjectives when I write a posting.
This thread is also in a way a response to all the good stuff that is posted on the forum. It is inspired by all the great work I see here, and it is an attempt to give something back.
Håvard, I would love to tear into your modeling and criticize the heck out of it. But, so far to my eye, it is virtually perfect. You have rendered nothing I could use for creative castigation. For now, I suppose, you will have to live with compliments. (Maybe we'll have a shot at you when you paint the boxcab!) -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on September 15, 2009, 12:39:41 PM
Håvard, I would love to tear into your modeling and criticize the heck out of it. But, so far to my eye, it is virtually perfect. You have rendered nothing I could use for creative castigation. For now, I suppose, you will have to live with compliments. (Maybe we'll have a shot at you when you paint the boxcab!) -- Russ
Ha, Ha, that´s the advantage of picking the photo angles yourself!
But you are right, the thought of putting the airbrush to the model scares the heck out of me! It´s a golden opportunity to spoil everything I have achived. I have not gotten further than testing Tamiya fine surface primer on some scrap etchings. I have invested in a decent compressor and airbrush, so I have put myself in a situation where I can´t even blame my tools. But I still havent decided what type of paint to use, so If people have suggestions, I´m all ears. And I am readig up on everything I can come across on the matter, especially on the military modellers forums.
But here is a sucject for discussion:
Should I go for a plain airbrush job with some simple weathering as a finish, or go to the trouble of using sophisticated painting techniques like pre-shading, modulation with oil paint, filters and what not. Marc, this is your cue!
Ha...Oh, great......sure put me on the spot! :-X ;D
I have an answer brewing.....will post it a bit later today as I have to give it serious attention, and cant just glibly throw it out.
M
Quote from: Hauk on September 15, 2009, 10:51:23 AM
But please bear in mind that I´m a Norwegian, and that means I am a member of one of the more low-key species on the planet (at least when we are sober). Our idea of cheering wildly is a muted "nice" and a little nod...
Hey now, don't go taking all the credit for being soft-spoken and polite. We Canadians are often referred to as the most polite people o the planet (when sober), even when we're telling some wanker to go get stuffed... ;)
One of the best aspects of this forum continues to be an honest sharing of knowledge, insights and skills that appears in so many of the posts. It also helps that no one takes themselves too seriously.
Paul
Hauk,
Your modeling of the Westinghouse boxcab is outstanding! Many modelers shy away from taking on multi process projects using several different techniques or materials. Brass scratch building from the ground up is very time consuming, and from my humble modeling experiences takes a lot of trial and effort in many cases to make just one part at a time. As you mentioned you have been working on this project for several years; I often think that I'm the only one that it takes several years to build a project!
The replys to your thread are very notable in the fact that often many modelers tend to rank their own modeling success only by the number of views, or replys to their internet postings. (I'm kinda aiming this at John's replys)
I don't believe that is a good "gauge" of any modeler. Often when we see modeling like your boxcab, or Marc's masterpieces, Chuck Dones modeling among other fine modelers, I'm not sure that we don't hesitate to reply because we simply feel that we are not on that level. The masters and beginners alike in our hobby that share their experiences, good, bad, triumphs, or failures, encourage all of us to do better and try new ways of modeling.
Case in point: I wanted to bring my modeling to a more confident point, but felt limited by off the shelf parts, or basic scratch building techniques. The only way I could get fine brass parts was to make them myself. (Here comes the thread hijacking) I had to learn photoetching myself and not have to rely on more costly and time consuming out-sourcing. After more than a year of internet how to research I'm able to produce most, not all, of the parts I need for my projects.
Using a simple process called "toner transfer" photo etching with pretty good results is possible by just about any member on this site. Without taking over your excellent Boxcab thread, let's look at the basic process. As you mentioned; a graphic program is needed, I use coreldraw, as it is one of my own industry standard off the shelf graphic programs. A pretty good resolution 1200 DPI or better laser printer, an iron, ferric chloride(the acid), a submersible aquarium heater, and a chemical resistant "bucket" or container for the acid, and some cheap gloss photopaper. With the exception of the graphic program, these materials can be found and purchased for under $100 US about anywhere in the world. There are of course going to be other acids, films, and processes available, but this is a good entry into photoetching.
Design your part using the graphic program, reverse the art, and print it out on the photopaper in the highest resolution possible for your printer. Prepair a piece of brass sheet, no thicker than .005 to start, (I'm etching .016 now for my McKeen motorcar bodies) Clean the brass sheet with the finest steel wool available, removing any gloss from the sheet. Wipe clean using a non petro based solvent; I use acetone. Do not touch brass with fingers, as oils in fingers will not allow good toner transfer. With the iron on it's high setting, toner side of art toward the brass, carefully iron the art to the cleaned brass sheet. Apply even hard pressure, but don't slide the iron around as it will smear the toner on the brass. With the photopaper now stuck to the brass, emerse in warm water with a bit of dishwashing liquid and soak until the photo paper can be pulled away from the brass. This takes some doing as it comes off in layers. If the transfer was well done it can be scrubed with a nylon brush with no damage to the image. Once clean and dry, the brass can then be put into the heated acid "tank" and etching takes only a few minutes. I have posted this method in perhapes a little more detail on a couple other modeling sites, including my own Tracksidemodeler.com but wish to encourage modelers to expand their own abilities so we can all add to our own for better and better results in our hobby.
Hauk, I'm only trying to add to your quote,"So if anyone have tips & tricks on soldering, machining in brass or any other related subject, get in the thread! Feel free to hijack the thread" I hope this brief info is helpful to other modelers and thank everyone here for the "soapbox" to add.
Here's a couple of quick photos to show it is possible to do this at home.
The art on photopaper of the parts I needed:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff373%2Fsteammodeler%2Fhardwareart.jpg&hash=1748dbf97f00301edfef80bb81beb55c142f311a)
The home etched parts:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff373%2Fsteammodeler%2Fhardwareetchnottoobad.jpg&hash=cf61419a0cd131fb91037ee2a01a3a09fde99e26)
Some other parts I needed:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff373%2Fsteammodeler%2Forecarartsheet.jpg&hash=2a29854f4b540e19d00fe8d5fa6df218fd1cf368)
The toner transfer before etching:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff373%2Fsteammodeler%2Fdumplinkagetonertransfer005.jpg&hash=beea2d7ed13db1737cfab6002b3e10a21c5fc567)
The end result, a working HOn3 wood side dump car:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff373%2Fsteammodeler%2Ffinalimage1.jpg&hash=96ed4cc46f3af56b21c555b53c240713876625ab)
James
Great tip, James, and a beautiful model!
Excellent info, and a wonderful model indeed! I would be afraid I'd squish it trying to operate it.
Quote from: steammodeler on September 16, 2009, 09:49:48 AM
Case in point: I wanted to bring my modeling to a more confident point, but felt limited by off the shelf parts, or basic scratch building techniques. The only way I could get fine brass parts was to make them myself. (Here comes the thread hijacking) I had to learn photoetching myself and not have to rely on more costly and time consuming out-sourcing.
A very interesting post
It´s a notch up on the craftsman scale to do the actual etching yourself!
I chose to outsource the actual etching job for several reasons.
I feel that two-sided etching of parts with large half-etched areas (lots of relief detail) is pretty ambitous even for very dedicated home etchers.
Some of the parts I etch are so small that they require perfect indexing of the two photograpic films. I dont have a good enough printer for this kind of originals, so I would have to use a pre-press company even if I was to do the etchings myself. The graphic films are the most expensive part of the whole process, a set of films cost around USD 150. The actual etched sheet of brass costs around USD 50.
Even the extremly skilled etchers I use have problems with some of my parts. But these people take pride in their work, so they do the work over again with no questions asked and at no extra cost. I can not give Chempix enough praise, and I really reccomend their services.
In these images you can see some of the variations even a company like Chempix has to deal with:
In the first image you can see that the parts are slightly overetched (holes too large):
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fex1.jpg&hash=37743252045bd4ba78fcd89088da40a9b6c03bc9)
Chempix agreed that the parts in the first picture was not up to their standards, so they did another sheet:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fex3.jpg&hash=0033e1809e529f6dcad053caa54dd51aea0c9ec4)
Remember that these parts are around 3,5X3,5 mm (0,12" X 0,12").
And just to show how small you can go:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Flykte_fotter.jpg&hash=82e29578da406f23ffa41d222312c01f7a5f9596)
But this does not mean that I am not mighty impressedwith what you have achived by etching in your home workshop!
Havard:
For such a short and simple question, you packed a lot in there that needs to be addressed/considered.....so my answer is going to somewhat long and rambling, disjointed....and end up being ambiguous in some aspects.......I will post this in multiple parts so it is easier to read through and address any questions/comments an input by everyone.
First off, as to what paint to use:
Taking into consideration the EU laws/requirements, your choices are probably limited to acrylics, and the Humbrol oil paints. (not sure if Revell makes oils...but from what I have read and seen on European forums) I would stay away from any Revell paint....and I do not know if you guys can get Model Master oils.
I also assume that since this is an operating model it will get a bit of handling. Now as you know, I generally don't do metal/brass models......but given past painting experience, if at all possible, I would suggest a good lacquer or oil based type primer....something that will really bond to the brass and cure well.....this really needs to hold, as everything else that follows will bond to it. Then for the paint itself.....assuming the handling, of the loco, you will most likely have some kind of varnish...likely satin that will be the final...or almost final coat (this will come up again in the weathering part).....so now comes the question of how you want to approach the painting, and what steps/techniques you want to go through and include.
A brief side note here as to process....if your base colors are acrylic, you can use artists oil based filters and washes directly over them with no problem (though some models still put a clear satin acrylic coat over them for control/personal choice purposes).....if your base colors are oils, you will definitely need apply a clear satin acrylic coat over them, so as to protect them from being attacked by the turpentine/white-spirits...........this may influence your choice in what paints to use.
Now....personally I really like the Tamiya paints...despite their limited colors.....but I do not know how they would hold up to a lot of handling, even after being sealed with a clear coat....one would assume they should be fine....but having no experience with touching models repeatedly, I can't say. Just by their nature the Humbrols should hold up well......but despite their wide color range, ...I am not a big fan of working with them....I find them OK for small brushwork details and weathering...but have never really gotten the hang of them for airbrushing larger areas....some people really like them and do well with them...but not me....maybe it has to do with their drying/curing time and my impatience to keep going...I also have not been able to get a good feel/fit for the thinning ratio....but those are my problems.
The Vallejos are really beautiful paints....but....they are not the easiest to work with in an airbrush, and take some practice and getting used to get the right mix [I now generally thin about 50-paint to 50-thinning material....... the thinning material consists of a mix of their "thinner" (which is basically the un-tinted base] and distilled water. I mix the thinner and water together first....then add this to the paint, and mix well.].....the concern I have with using the Vallejos is that they are IMO a somewhat delicate/fine paint (insofar as the surface finish and the look/feel).....they are great for figures and static models and such...but without trying it, I personally would have concern on a model that is handled..especially in the same areas.....of course this might be alleviated/mitigated and made inconsequential by the clear coat.
If you don't want to deal with trying to mix the right ratio for airbrushing with the Vallejo "Model Color" line....they do make a line called "Model Air" that is pre-thinned and meant specifically for airbrushing....though they don't have all the colors avail in this line. I prefer the control of mixing my own (and I rarely use a color as it comes in the bottle anyway)...but give both a try and see what you like.
What I really like about the Tamiya and the Vallejo,(when applied properly) is that they dry real "tight" to the surface and allow the small details to show well and clearly.
M
When I built the pilot plates for the engine I used cosmetic hex bolts and nuts.
Since then I learned that www.scalehardware.com (http://www.scalehardware.com) offers *working* nuts and bolts with a key width of 0,8mm (0,03"). I just had to get me some of those, so I ordered some bags even if I had no immidiate use for them. Just to try them out I mounted a couple of parts on a pilot plate:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fsh_bolter.jpg&hash=2e0162786caf26a008548e4c7677f8598d3317e4)
And boy, do I wish I had discovered these babies some years earlier!
Its just so more neat and convenient to actually bolt everything together rather than covering the delicaties with blobs of solder.... With the Miniature socket wrenches from SH, assembling is just plain fun!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scalehardware.com%2Fimages%2Fcategories%2Fsocketwrenches.jpg&hash=11a5042bf888fd0ca0f7773552cc144240159a54)
OK, so this is a shameless plug for SH. But they offer some great products, and the service is top notch. I am totally dependent on small businesses like SH for my modelling needs, and if more people know about them, the longer they will probably be in business!
Exit commercial, back to the regular program.
I dont know if it was a blessing or a curse in disguise, but the further I got along with this project, the more I realised that 0-scale is the practical minimum size for a *lot* of hardware and details that I wanted to include on the model. These bolts are a good example. I think they are probably the smallest size you could make a working nut/bolt and I would not even want to try to handle a smaller bolt even if it was available. As covered in an earlier post, many of the etched parts are bordering on the imossible small.
Before choosing 0-scale, I did seriously consider building models in S-scale using H0 wheels and mechanisms. Exact meter gauge is 15,6mm in Sm, so H0 gauge is around 10% too wide. But I am glad I didnt go this route, because even if there is a lot of H0 stuff out there, you would always end up compromising.
I have choosen a pretty unusual prototype, but a lot of he equipment is preserved on the museum railroad (located just a 50 minutes drive from where I live, and some of the work on the mechanism was actually done in the shops of the full scale railroad!), and I have a lot of drawings and documentation available. I also knew that some of the people most interested in my models would be very familiar with the prototype. So what I am aiming at is museum quality, no less. Maybe a bit ambitious, but why not?
This is something I have realised along the way, and I think I would have been very frustrated if I had invested a lot of time and money in the wrong scale for achichiving my goals. But thinking about it, It could have been pretty nice to have the model in 1/32 scale!
Regards, Håvard H
Quote from: marc_reusser on September 16, 2009, 01:49:44 PM
Havard:
For such a short and simple question, you packed a lot in there that needs to be addressed/considered.....so my answer is going to somewhat long and rambling, disjointed....and end up being ambiguous in some aspects.......I will post this in multiple parts so it is easier to read through and address any questions/comments an input by everyone.
Yes, its almost absurd to phrase the question as broad as I did. But I am happy to see that you took the bait! ;D
Regarding choosing paint, I think I am leaning towards Humbrol, Tamiya or even cellulose car paint.
I have good friends that restore cars professianlly, and they have access to old fashioned cellulose based car paint. A lot of very talented english custom painters svear by the stuff, and I would like to do some tests at least.
Primer is a big topic in itself. As I said, I have tried Tamiya fine surface primer, and it seems to work fine. I also tried to bake it for some hours at around 100 deg. C, and that seemed to harden it a bit. Maybe I should try some of the etchprimers that many people reccomend, but that stuff is said to be quite nasty, and it is not easy to get hold of here in Norway. Availablity is quite important.
What I really have to do is make some test work. I have a lot of semi-useless bodyparts for the engine from early test etches, and they could be put to good use this way.
A tip I would like to test is one that British painter & weathering expert Martyn Wylch offered. He often blackens brass models before painting, so that if the model get a scratch or the pain chips, at least the "wound" will be black or brownish rather than gleaming brass. But from my experiance, blackening potions often leaves a residue that can be wiped off. I have read that to avoid this, you could try diluthing the blackening with distilled water. Again, testing has to be done.
Regards, Håvard H
Havard,
I have found that "blasting" the brass provides excellent paint adhesion.
I have used baking soda with good results and other fine mediums designed for the task as well.
I have even used sand on more durable models.
There is a tool called an air eraser that looks like an airbrush designed just for this task.
When I finally finish the Corliss I will used the baking soda to prep it for paint.
Also I have found the Vajello paint very delicate.
-Marty
I have had problems with brass wire and shim stock after blackening. It often "sweats" even if I rinse it well. Sometimes takes days to show up.
I am totally blown away by the photo-etching. Bob (Uniack) and I have been discussing doing it for some time to do a variety of parts, but I have chickened out (read candy-ass) for two reasons. The first goes back 30 years when I was a factory racer running RC cars. I etched my own circuit boards and they were awful. We didn't have all that wonderful stuff like computer programs and ink-jet printers. The etching material also etched everything in the shop. The other is a friend who is a far better modeler than I am and is getting some done. He has been telling me to go have it done and do not try yourself. Well, it appears you are doing sensationally well on your own. I for one would love to see a longer thread step by step of you making those parts. I'll even leave comments.
John
John and Hauk:
That's fantastic etching work you guys. There's an English firm I worked with about ten years ago or so (and for the moment I can't remember their name, but I'll dig it up out of the archive. They tell me the memory is the second thing to go!) that specialized in photo-etching. What impressed me about them was their ability at the time to produce multi-layer etching. They could etch only part way through the brass to produce reliefs, raised edges and so on. Their work was incredibly crisp and clean. I'll dig through the archive and see if I can come up with a name or reference.
Hauk: another company for miniature fasteners is http://www.jimorrisco.com/ (http://www.jimorrisco.com/). They produce metric fasteners down to 0.50 UNM and 0000-160. They produce an excellent product but are very expensive especially in the smallest sizes.
Preblackening brass prior to painting is a good tip, but sweating can be a problem. I found with fastidious cleaning and prepping before blackening (I dipped parts in an acid etch bath first) the sweating would be minimized. As far as paints are concerned I always use automotive lacquers for the primary coats and follow up with enamels for weathering. I've never had much luck with acrylics, but that's probably just me. I create wash effects with the enamels using enamel thinners over the lacquers without risking damage to the lacquer finish below. Also makes it easy to clean up mistakes such as when your airbrush burps blobs of enamel all over the place... ;D
Paul
James,
Great SBS info on the PE. Thanks for posting, I too for one would be really interested learning more about doing at home, and working with ordering PE parts.........I have so many projects where I could use this....but like JOhn, basically been a chichen about persuing it.
One of my own neurotic concerns is figuring out all the of parts I need for all the diapsrate ongoing models...drawing them, sending them out, and then realizing I forgot some [:-Banghead
M
Havard
Ok....back to painting.....
Having worked for years with automotive lacquers, I am a big fan of them....at least for full sized stuff....I have never used them for small scale models....I have some concerns about pigment size, and how tight they lay down on the surface around details (though a local professional loco painter, Jerry Spoelma, here in town gets some beautiful results with them). I guess it depends on how fine the specific pigments are in the given lacquer, how thin you apply the layers, and how well your airbrush atomizes. The same concern is realistic with acrylics as well (and there are a lot of cheaper non scale-hobby specific acrylics that are really mediocre or crap for fine workmanship)....it's just that I have more experience working with the acrylics on scale models. I think the paint type is definitely something you should experiment and play around with. Whatever paint you choose keep in mind the painting approach(es) you plan to take/use, CM (Color Modulation), Fading, Pre-shading, Scale Effect, etc.....these often will require smooth and subtle color or shade transitions, so the paint does need to atomize very fine, so that the blend is not blatantly visible.
I have my druthers about the blackening, for the reasons mentioned, and from personal experience dealing with paint coming loose more easily over blackened brass parts.
Surface Textures:
One thing you may want to consider as part of the painting process, and to add more depth/texture/detail to the finished model, is some "casting texture". When looking at the prototype, do any of the surfaces have a fine sand or casting texture, if so you may want to add this using either the putty or Mr Surfacer method, or using the dry-spraying method.....you can also do this with sandblasting, but the chance there for losing detail is great. The nice thing about the first three methods, is that you can come back in with some sandpaper and smooth out the surfaces/edges/details that were then machined smooth on the cast parts during manufacturing. Small details like this will help with weathering as well.
What were you thinking for loco color and condition?
While thinking about this process I have been assuming that this loco is to be represented as an in-service engine that is maybe 10 years old, but has seen regular maintenance and care. There will be some fading of the paint in some areas, maybe a few areas of rain streaks, some grime/grease and dirt in the nooks and crannies and around the running gear; and maybe a few very small spots of oxidation round edges that get banged or wear, a bolt or two, and in nook or corner where water collects and get trapped......but all in a l fairly good condition and cared for loco.
I am also assuming that the loco color will be something along the typical European lines.....a dark green, blue or brown...possibly a black, grey or red?
Next, the pro's and cons of the different techniques and approaches.......
M
Quote from: marc_reusser on September 16, 2009, 09:48:34 PM
Havard
Ok....back to painting.....
Surface Textures:
One thing you may want to consider as part of the painting process, and to add more depth/texture/detail to the finished model, is some "casting texture". When looking at the prototype, do any of the surfaces have a fine sand or casting texture, if so you may want to add this using either the putty or Mr Surfacer method, or using the dry-spraying method.....you can also do this with sandblasting, but the chance there for losing detail is great. The nice thing about the first three methods, is that you can come back in with some sandpaper and smooth out the surfaces/edges/details that were then machined smooth on the cast parts during manufacturing. Small details like this will help with weathering as well.
What were you thinking for loco color and condition?
While thinking about this process I have been assuming that this loco is to be represented as an in-service engine that is maybe 10 years old, but has seen regular maintenance and care. There will be some fading of the paint in some areas, maybe a few areas of rain streaks, some grime/grease and dirt in the nooks and crannies and around the running gear; and maybe a few very small spots of oxidation round edges that get banged or wear, a bolt or two, and in nook or corner where water collects and get trapped......but all in a l fairly good condition and cared for loco.
I am also assuming that the loco color will be something along the typical European lines.....a dark green, blue or brown...possibly a black, grey or red?
The model is planned to represent the engine as it was after around 25 years of service (that would be around 1935). I have seen no color pictures from the period, but from the BW pictures I have seen the engines are pretty gritty, with very noticeble rain stains and possible rust stains.
The full size engines were bought for mainline use, but their pulling power were pathetic. Even the wooden passenger motorcars were far stronger. The three engines of this type were soon transfered into helper service, and after the Thamshavnbanen railroad bought new, stronger mainline engines (my next modelling project!) in 1917, they were sentenced to switcher service.
So think well-used switcher when it comes to the paintjob. But It should absolutely be a working engine, by no means an rip-track candidate! One should also remember that it ran on an electric railway, no soot and smoke from steam engines around. The railway transported copper ore, so the weathering should probably suggest this.
The paint scheme can be seen on this restored engine:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fs_grafikk%2Fs_west1.jpg&hash=8d2cb13fe8f51e9cc98a3f37ffc224d09f284e22)
Its a lousy image, I know, and the blue on this restored engine is far too dark. An engine in 1935 would be a very faded and streaked blue. The red would also be somewhat faded, me thinks.
The trucks and underframe should be a very dark shade of grey, so that the details do not disappear under indoor lighting.
When it comes to surface textures, the only cast parts are the journal boxes, couplers and wheel centers. As these are brass castings, the already has a pretty ok surface texture.
The rest of the engine is mode out of steel plate.
Regarding the paintjob, I have studied very closely your thread on painting an small engine using the modulation techniques developed by military modellers. Was that project ever finished, by the way?
Hauk,
this is inspirational work - and one we can all learn from, look forward to seeing how it develops
but!
"Regarding the paintjob, I have studied very closely your thread on painting an small engine using the modulation techniques developed by military modellers. Was that project ever finished, by the way?"
I would never ask Marc that question ;D
Quote from: Roughboy on September 16, 2009, 05:18:30 PM
There's an English firm I worked with about ten years ago or so (and for the moment I can't remember their name, but I'll dig it up out of the archive).
Paul
Found... I knew I'd turn it up sooner or later. All I had to do was look for something else!
The firm's name is Photo Etch Consultants (http://www.photo-etch.co.uk/index.html) in Walsall, UK. Fellow I worked with was Chris Stockton. Photo below is of a nickel-silver sample he sent me several years ago. I have the complete package on this piece from original artwork through films, etching stages and final piece which is pictured below. If you notice, the artwork for this was copyrighted in 1989. What impressed me was the precision and the multi-level etching. High-quality work considering this particular sample was produced from hand-drawn artwork which makes it even more impressive. At the time I was in contact with them they were just beginning to use CAD files. With the advances in CAD technology over the past decade I expect their work is even better today. The photo was just a quick snap, so the lighting doesn't really do the piece justice. I should have put in a size reference in the photo, but the piece is 3.75" L. x 2.75" W.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Froughboy.net%2Fimgs%2FPhotoEtch.jpg&hash=934162b5446185656ef4a0d51a96d25ccf924e6c)
Paul
Time to awake this thread from the semi-dead, some red text claim that "this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days".
There was a time when I tought it was a very clever idea to pick a prototype with only electric engines, since I believed it would be a real timesaver not to have to worry about the running gear on steam engines.
Well, the time used to build a working pantograph have definitely eaten all that saved time and then some. But at last I have a pantograph that is at least half decent when it comes to operating:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpanto_func.jpg&hash=00ad4c526692844b013a77a63d43d4a4ee774fda)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpanto_func2.jpg&hash=7125dd2f51132210f5334717a51dc7c764b3b052)
I am actually starting to think that this engine will be finished one day!
-Håvard
Gosh, what a beautiful pantograph! Perfect size materials and details. And it looks sprung. But how? Please explain it to us.
I like electrics. I like to watch the many vids on You-Tubers of the TGV swooshing by with the pantographs singing. I like how they spark at night.
Did I say what a beautiful pantograph?
John
Quote from: JohnP on August 07, 2010, 08:47:51 PM
Gosh, what a beautiful pantograph! Perfect size materials and details. And it looks sprung. But how? Please explain it to us.
Thanks for the thumbs up!
Rather than to try to explain the workings in semi-broken english, I have uploaded a simple video for you who really wants to know!
Its a bit big ( around 26mb) due to the lack of any video editing software.
http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/bilder/MVI_3118.mov (http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/bilder/MVI_3118.mov)
Regards, Haavard
I hope this translates correctly'
FRIGGIN AWESOME!!!!!!
That is one amazing piece of engineering!
--Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on August 08, 2010, 06:00:46 AM
I hope this translates correctly'
FRIGGIN AWESOME!!!!!!
That is one amazing piece of engineering!
--Marty
Glad you enjoyed it!
To semiquote Edison,what it boils down to is one per cent inspiration and ninety-nine per cent perspiration. If you want it hard enough, you can learn to build it.
Regarding engineering, the design is pretty strictly prototypical. In 0-scale it is possible to make almost everything exactly to scale.
What I still havent been able to figure out is if it is actually possible to have a pantograph like this move up and down in an entirely symmetrical fashion. I dont know if you can see it in the video, but the pantograph is exactly symmetrical only when slightly depressed (no strange pun intended). Fully erected, it leans slightly to one side. Same when it is pressed all the way down.
The challenge is to get the two connected axles to rotate with the exact same speed but in the opposite directions.
It is easy to do when the axles travel in the same direction, like steam engine drivers connected with a side rod, but the trouble starts when you place this rod in a diagonal fashion to make the axles move in opposite directions.
This might very well be the most marginal problem ever posted on this forum, but if anyone understand what I am rambling about and can offer a solution, I would love to hear it!
Beautiful work, not sure how I missed this before. Besides your awesome display of craftsmanship in brass, what I like about this level of detail in this scale, is the model becomes more "readable" as a documentation of the prototype. I can make out the individual parts and their functions, where in HO much of the detail would be only suggested, and/or difficult to see and correctly interpret.
Dave
Quote from: DaKra on August 08, 2010, 07:12:28 AM
Beautiful work, not sure how I missed this before. Besides your awesome display of craftsmanship in brass, what I like about this level of detail in this scale, is the model becomes more "readable" as a documentation of the prototype. I can make out the individual parts and their functions, where in HO much of the detail would be only suggested, and/or difficult to see and correctly interpret.
Dave
That is a very good summary of my modelling philosophy!
I have selected a prototype so obscure that most people will only know it through my models (abroad at least).
So the models have to tell the whole story. The viewer has no "a priori" knowledge to fill in if I cut corners.
-Haavard
havaard
a beautiful piece of craftmanship. It thrills me to know that there are still model builders in the world who regard working metals as the basis for equisite models.
through work of this standard it is hoped that others will follow suit.
Keep showing your work to inspire us all.
regards
Bernard
That is a compliment worth preserving. -- Russ
I agree with all posted comments. True definition of craftsmanship for sure.
Wow, that is an amazing piece of work! Beautiful!
Wow, that's beautiful work Havard... well done. As to the symmetrical issue raising and lowering, it appears that all components are straight and true, but perhaps the horizontal shafts are very slightly out of alignment. It wouldn't take much at this scale to cause a slight bind, a little more resistance on one side versus the other to cause drag. Just the heat from soldering might cause a slight distortion. Just a thought...
Paul
Quote from: finescalerr on August 09, 2010, 01:43:50 AM
That is a compliment worth preserving. -- Russ
I know...
Praise is always nice, but what direction it come from is not entirely irrelevant.
-H
No great progress, just a little note on making operating joints/links/hinges.
I tried the blackening method on a "real" hinge on a new pantograph today, with two small refinements.
To lessen the risk of solder locking up the joint further, I used another trick I have picked up from MRJ. I inserted a piece of cigarette paper as a spacer between the little pice of tubing beeing soldered and the part that should remain unsoldered.
I also used a nice product from Carrs that I can warmly reccomend, heat resistant tape. Great for holding parts in place while soldering.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpantograf_link.jpg&hash=d047a08499b8b6b51cb2c0cc2015faa4baa69178)
But boy, do I have a love/hate feeling towards this kind of micro work!
Regards, Haaavard
Geese!
And I thought I was nuts putting the Vector cut .5mm nuts on the ends of .015" music wire bent up to represent brake levers on a Nash Quad in 1:48......... :(
Amazing and inspiring work Hawk!
I never tire of the fabricating I see here!
-Marty
feeling like Blind Willie Miopits right now
Agree with all ... the pantograph is a true work of art and fine craftsmanship!
Marty ... where'd you find the .5mm nuts on VectorCut site? I see a set with 1.0 and 1.5 mm bits ... so curious if that's a typo or if there's a smaller set available I'm missing somewhere ...
Cheers,
dallas
missed this from the beginning...., Super nice build Hawk!
philip
Dallas, Likely a typo then, all I know is they are friggin small! perfect for what I was doing.
One of the things that I have struggled with is a concept to keep the contact shoe of the pantograph flat against the overhead wire.
For some reason I have avoided the obvious: Do it like the prototype!
The prototype uses four springs and two vertical levers to keep the shoe in place.
I think the reason for ignoring this was the problem with obtaining reall small springs. And again, i missed the obious solution. Sommerfeldt is probably the largest manufacturer of pantographs in all major modelling scales, and when I finally checked their spare parts list, I found springs with a diameter of 1 mm and length of 5mm. But they were a horror to work with, countless times there was a little *ping* and the little bugger flew across the room .
Things started to click, and last night I built a prototype for the centering mechanism. It was a lot of trial and error before arriving at a working solution, so there are a few traces from failed attempts:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpantograf_topp.jpg&hash=3064f2986943e6da2eb2bde8c5a75c60e60f7ed9)
And that in fact concludes the work on the pantograph!
With the prototype done, I can move on to the *real* ones...
Regards,
Haavard
I see no evidence of failure; only evidence of success. -- Russ
Most excellent work!
I can see lots of uses for those springs.......and a need to buy a lot "boing"
-Marty
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages9.fotki.com%2Fv1618%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2Finconceivable-vi.jpg&hash=30454c2548ce4ba09e915fe5ab5f2acde7e4fd9e)
OK so I've seen the big pennies but now it's 12" long rubber fingers!
I really like this work. It is miniature mechanical perfection. Next we'll hear Haavard is using carbon nano-tubes for the perfectly scaled power switching circuitry.
John
Thanks a lot for all the kind feedback!
Those pesky little springs left me more than a little cross-eyed, so I am seriously considering getting one like this:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages2.opticsplanet.com%2F640-640%2Fopplanet-lomo-measuring-digital-inspection-microscope-bundle.jpg&hash=e7ab9bd61a917410203b12f784d7dd12523efe12)
http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?pid=94-95-1150&kw=&st=0 (http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?pid=94-95-1150&kw=&st=0)
Have anyone tried using a stero microscope as a modelling aid?
-Haavard
A stereo microscope might be handy for some of my projects, such as sculpting figures of real people. But the price is far out of my range, so I'll have to stick with the ol' magnifying lamp.
Quote from: Hauk on September 16, 2010, 11:08:12 AM
Those pesky little springs left me more than a little cross-eyed, so I am seriously considering getting one like this:
-Haavard
After working with those springs, the rest of us would be getting one of THESE:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages28.fotki.com%2Fv998%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F2466155%2Fstraightjacket-vi.jpg&hash=e225a1f068e5ab964a8e252f8fc4d2166811f739)
Ken, that looks familiar but it must be the long sleeve version:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.micromark.com%2FRS%2FSR%2FProduct%2F82580_R.jpg&hash=8a0600147f91d4f7a6dd002f7af58463be21512d)
John
WOW!...you are truely insane Havard! Beautiful work.
Glad I don't have your level of skill.....I would go over the brink completely.
Marc
Is he getting ready to eat that thing?
Tom
I'm constantly looking for updates on this project and in awe of the level of skill.
Just a little note to say that I am working quite a lot on my boxcabs, despite very few updates lately.
This is mostly due to the fact that I am building two engines and at least three panographs simultaneously. That would result in a boring stream of quite similiar postings if every visit to the workshop should result in a posting
But I broke some new ground yesterday, albeit not a big one.
Handles for the sliding doors was made from 0,5mm brass wire and some brass rivets. I really enjoy the fact that the brass is soft enough to be pressed flat with a pair of pliers. That maks it possible to get that flat area I needed to drill holes for the mounting rivets.
The little bugger looks like this:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fdoorhandle.jpg&hash=e96b1d7fd81e5fd6f4fc9cf5c07d3934ab7f7d64)
4 handles and a spare took most of a suprisingly enjoyable evening.
Regards, Hauk
Amazing! Looks like something I would drop into oblivion.
Wow, that's tiny!
How do you drill such small holes in brass?
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on November 22, 2010, 11:15:06 AM
Wow, that's tiny!
How do you drill such small holes in brass?
I start by punching the spot to be drilled, or rather press an indent in the metal with a pencil scriber. This is done on a steel surface to avoid deformation of the thin metal. For drilling I use a pin-vise. The trick is to be patient and not apply to much pressure. I broke two drills just for this simple job...
Regards, Hawx.
I sometimes loose track of what I have posted when and where on the great InterWeb, but here is the latest image of the engine anyway:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fsluttbilde_web.jpg&hash=9a0d011979ca7bcd71f58f17990aca670a599ac0)
Hope to show some more progress soon!
Regards, Hauk
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Quote from: Hauk on February 02, 2011, 01:22:04 AM
Hope to show some more progress soon!
Regards, Hauk
You can always hope...
But here is the latest progress shot. The finished pantograph:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpantograph_finished.jpg&hash=4c52e2191a3810d839a6580798a4d79b7ff7b2f3)
Regards, Hauk
That's some incredible miniature engineering!
Hi Hauk,
a great job, it was worth it for me, look at the thread again to all.
Songs I've found nothing to indicate the scale or read about it.
I am constructing my model so well on the PC and use a CNC milling and etching.
Quote from: Design-HSB on October 22, 2011, 02:10:19 AM
Hi Hauk,
a great job, it was worth it for me, look at the thread again to all.
Songs I've found nothing to indicate the scale or read about it.
Thanks for the thumbs up!
I am sorry for not stating the scale on the glorified tincan.
It is a 0m model. Wich means it is built to 1/45 scale and 22,2 mm gauge.
Painting is next up, and I am in the process of testing different primers and paints. Scary stuff on so many levels...
The prototype ran on a short mining railroad in the middle of Norway. I have written an article about the railroad:
http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/tb_artikkel_eng.php (http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/tb_artikkel_eng.php)
Regards Hauk.
That is simply beautiful. Real art.
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 22, 2011, 03:48:17 AM
That is simply beautiful. Real art.
Thanks!
This is one of the few forums I really care about what feedback I get. The feedback from you guys is an important contribution to getting this project into gear again after a long pause.
And testing of cleaning fluids, primers and paint is progressing quite nicely. But pieces of scrap brass scrubbed with various chemicals and covered with silly numbers of primers and paints aint exactly much to look at. But the conclusions will be boiled down into some postings that hopefully will be useful for others.
Regards, Hauk
Beautiful work.
Jerry
Quote from: Hauk on October 22, 2011, 02:46:45 AM
It is a 0m model. Wich means it is built to 1/45 scale and 22,2 mm gauge.
Hi Hauk,
g
Thank you.
I could not believe that your model is really so small, so I had to ask.
Simply amazing and very interesting for me also the link to your page.
I'm building so well on the model of a coal mine, but exactly twice as large.
How could anyone improve on that level of craftsmanship? -- Russ
incredibly beautiful detail work.
QuoteHow could anyone improve on that level of craftsmanship? -- Russ
They do it all the time! and it is just that that keeps us all on our toes, and sets the bar for us all to raise. I could name names but what's the point.
Someone does something incredible, then someone else does something even more incredible.
In the Olympics they now split hundreds of seconds, soon they will be splitting thousands of seconds, the same applies in model-work the bar gets raised a millimeter or a thousandth. Then it gets raised another tenth of a millimeter or a tenth of thousandths.
Isn't it great!!
regards Michael
Quote from: michael mott on October 23, 2011, 07:26:50 PM
QuoteHow could anyone improve on that level of craftsmanship? -- Russ
They do it all the time! and it is just that that keeps us all on our toes, ...
.....in model-work the bar gets raised a millimeter or a thousandth. Then it gets raised another tenth of a millimeter or a tenth of thousandths.
Isn't it great!!
regards Michael
Bite Me! :P ;D
M
Quote from: finescalerr on October 22, 2011, 11:50:53 AM
How could anyone improve on that level of craftsmanship? -- Russ
Thanks for all the praise!
But there is certainly room for improvement. Especially in the operating/ruggedness department.
A totally different matter is that I am planning to make a *less* detailed version of the pantograph. A couple of people have bought "kits" of this engine, and they are struggeling quite a bit with the pantograph. I will therefore look into if it is possible to make an version that is, say, 80 % the realism and 20 % the work. A different challenge all together, but it might be interesting!
Regards, Hauk
Not much progress to report, have done some painting experiments that I will share in the near future.
Until then, I have a concept for headlight lenses I want to share.
I have some rather tiny headlights in brass that I want to install lightbulbs in and cover with glass.
My first plan was to cut disks from microscope cover glass slips. But after trying this I fell I will go insane before finishing the eight disks I need. Rhey have a diameter of around 0,16" (4 mm).
So my idea is to get some Alumilite Clear and fill the lens with it. The idea is to get it totally filled so I can polish it after it have set. The glass on the prototype was flat glass.
My first thought was to cast the lightbulb in place, but it might be an better idea to drill carefully into the cured resin from the back and make the bulb replaceble.
Any toughts on this? Good idea, or just plain stupid? I have included a picture of one of the headlights.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fdreid_lykt.jpg&hash=6ae99b31ccc85118d9f42961ceb308e5da0c8c3c)
By the way, this is a marker lamp that should be red, so does anyone know if it is possible to tint Alumilite Clear?
Regards, Hauk
Why not punch the lenses out of acetate? You can even get acetate that's already tinted.
Did you turn that headlight? If so, WOW! -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on December 23, 2011, 01:07:11 AM
Did you turn that headlight? If so, WOW! -- Russ
Yes, on my little Proxxon 230. Great little lathe for cosmetic projects like this.
Parts like this are in fact fun and simple to do. The rounded back was formed free-hand with a file.
And for the flat parts, a really sharp cutting tool helps a lot. And if the part is a few thou over/undersized does not really matter, at least until you try to fit a lens...
Regards, Haavard H
I'm not sure what Alumilite is but I have used epoxy for lenses (may be same thing).
I just fill the void and done.
Most lenses I have done had a curve so the surface tension of the epoxy was good.
I never worried about replacing bulbs, I figured by then my skills would improve and I could make another one!
Beautiful housing by the way!
-Marty
Painting & finishing has begun, and I am trying out different approches.
For the trucks I have used Birchwood Casey blackening. I like the fact that it does not obscure details, but I m struggeling to get consistent results. So far, what seems to work best is dunking the parts in a solution of 1 part blackening to 200 parts of water for a couple of days.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fboggie_ferdig_w.jpg&hash=da560b4933959ec19d5e7fa6c83a3580c2dcbb52)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fboggie_3_ferdig.jpg&hash=9ca79cc6d1691718cf19480e0c73eb5a97b88832)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fboggie_2_ferdig_w.jpg&hash=fb53c4eca0af92cd19776548ec64046a7a95f2ab)
As the wheelsets were permanently assembled with ball bearings before applying paint or blackening, I decided to paint them. It would be very hard to rinse of any blackening. Its a bit unfortunate that the color do not match the blackening better. But after final weathering it should be ok.
And I have to do something with those very out of scale screwheads. Maybe a coverplate of brass soldered directly to the screws.
Coming up: Painting headlight reflectors with Alclad 2.
Extraordinary!
I think it looks great. I don't see a problem with the difference between the wheels and sideframes. Likely in real life these would be slightly different to begin with, due to material, wear, and exposure to light and elements, and would age weather differently. the darker color of the wheels also ads some "depth" to the overall piece.
M
I think they look really sharp.
Michael
You're too critical of your own work, Havaard. The trucks are most satisfactory. -- Russ
They're really nicely finished Haavard. They have a beautiful blue metal patina pitted looking finish to them, and I particularly like the axle box covers. Very clean work. Thanks for the update.
Cheers,
Dan
Quote from: finescalerr on December 28, 2011, 12:45:31 AM
You're too critical of your own work, Havaard.
Perhaps. But I like to point out things that might be improved upon, even if I am basically happy with the results.
As this is one of the very few forums were you can get constructive critisism, I try to encourage it.
But let there be no doubt about it, I am very happy with those trucks. I have dreamt about building stuff like that since I was a kid. A great milstone on the engine project, and a big inspiration to get the darn thing finished.
Regards, Hauk
Painting is definitively the last big hurdle in this project.
Truth is, I have already painted the model a couple of times, but unhappy with the results it was all washed off with laquer thinners. Thats the beauty of metal models, no risk of dissolving the model!
Airbrushing is a very tricky issue in my book. I never get close enough to that "sweet spot" where the paint is going on really wet, very, very close to running.
Doing test pieces, I relax a bit more, and here is a piece where I almost nailed it:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmalingstest_tak_w.jpg&hash=8f47dcf567be501e20a7cf01b595241fddd102f4)
Paint is Tamiya gloss acrylic paint thinned 1 part paint to 2 parts laquer thinner. The roof has been given an dark brown oil paint & turpentine wash.
A bit more practicing, and I am ready to tackle the real thing!
Paint is Tamiya gloss acrylic paint thinned 1 part paint to 2 parts laquer thinner.
Can acrylic paint be thinned with lacquer thinner?
Wonderful model so far!
John
Quote from: JohnP on December 29, 2011, 12:10:30 PM
Paint is Tamiya gloss acrylic paint thinned 1 part paint to 2 parts laquer thinner.
Can acrylic paint be thinned with lacquer thinner?
Wonderful model so far!
John
Thanks, John!
Tamiya acrylics works very well with laquer thinners. But this seems to be quite a controversial truth, I have seen some rather heated discussions online regarding this. I have never heard that you can thin any other brand of acrylics with laquer thinners.
I first heard about using laquer thinners with Tamiya in Adam Wilders video on modulation.
Regards, Hauk
It works, because Tamiya acrylics are not "true acrylics" as we think of them, in the sense of being water soluble paints like other/typical acrylics (you can't/shouldn't thin them with wate). Tamiya lacquer thinner actually is perfect for spraying them, because it is a bit less agressive than regular LT. I have though been able to get equally good results with their standard X-20A thinner. IMO, it dries a bit slower than than the LT.
I think you got a nice result with the gloss....I have actually found them to be a bit challenging to spray, compared to the matte finish.
M
Nice work Hauk! To avoid runs and other problems with the Tamiya X-paints I just use the XF-paints and finish with one or two coats of X-22 Clear and you have the same result as with the gloss paints and also all your ordinary range of colors to choose from.
Anders :D
Quote from: Junior on December 30, 2011, 07:28:14 AM
Nice work Hauk! To avoid runs and other problems with the Tamiya X-paints I just use the XF-paints and finish with one or two coats of X-22 Clear and you have the same result as with the gloss paints and also all your ordinary range of colors to choose from.
Anders :D
I fear that you have a very good point... I also wonder if a semi-gloss finish would work. So maybe XF with some glaze added could work.
Regards, Hauk
A little update on the painting. I am getting closer to mastering the Tamiya gloss paint in the airbrush. Not perfect yet, but passable for now. In the picture no weathering has been added except a burnt umber oilpaint in white spirits wash. More ruststains, maybe some rainstreaks to follow. Some washes on the trucks and overall dusting and the job should be done. Not mention couplers, glazing for the windows, headlight lenses and lighting system. Should be ready for summer service, though.
Critical comments welcomed.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fsneak_prew.jpg&hash=0f07f926d5495c9f651295f8901e349e46031162)
Simply brilliant.
Have you already glazed windows?
Quote from: Design-HSB on January 29, 2012, 04:49:11 AM
Simply brilliant.
Have you already glazed windows?
Thanks! I have already cut the glazing for the sliding side windows. These are the hard onece, since the coverslips have to fit within the etched frames. I tought about making the windows operable, but I think I will just leave the windows on the drivers side half-open (or half closed, depending on what sort of personality type you are...)
I wrote a litte essay on cutting coverslips in another thread (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1099.0).
Beautiful!
Holy Cats!!! That is looking beautiful Hauk... very subtle weathering so far, but your manufacturing process always leaves me stunned. I'd have had to go forward with the results of your "test run", BTW, as I'm not sure I could have improved upon that result in gloss ;D
Looks real right now!
Enjoyable thread.
Thanks for sharing.
Marty
Criticism? You must be joking. -- Russ
A little progress this night. I have for a long time wondered how to fit lenses/glazing into the headlamp and markerlight. I decided to try acrylic rod. For the marker light I used a red acrylic rod. Turned it down to a few thou above the headligh opening. Pressed the rod into the hole, parted off as close to the brass part as I dared. Polished with wet and dry 3600 to 12000. I think it worked out pretty good:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fsluttsignal_w.jpg&hash=f121f48f1a3b01cead4f9efa5bfa670abaa441ca)
Regards, Hauk
That looks damn spiffy!
Good idea too!
-Marty
if you don't have red or yellow you can stain clear with food color and Future clear and it works, it takes 24 hours for a real deep color but when your in a pinch and don't have the color you need
MPH
Quote from: lab-dad on February 01, 2012, 03:38:29 PM
That looks damn spiffy!
Good idea too!
-Marty
Thanks!
If you have access to a lathe, the process goes surprisingly fast.
The most time-consuming part is polishing the cut surfaces up to a glass shine. And you can not just spin the lathe and put the wet&dry against the rod. You will get a center that is poorly finished.
I used the following grades of W&D: 1200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000. Finished off with a buffing block.
By the way, the pictures gives the wrong imression. The "glass" is absolutely flush with the brass.
Regards, Hauk
Nice job, Havaard. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on February 02, 2012, 01:37:37 AM
Nice job, Havaard. -- Russ
Thanks Russ.
Small step for mankind, and not really a big one for me either! But I give myself a little backslap for giving up the idea of casting clear resin directly into the brass turnings and instead finding a much simpler solution.
Regards, Hauk
That came out really nice!
Very nice indeed, regarding polishing acrylic I made a series of lenses for a science centre exhibit that was dealing with refraction and I used brasso on some card as a polishing compound worked like a charm.
Michael
Finally I tackled the main headlights .
After trying to paint the reflectors with alclad metallic paint, I decided to turn aluminum inserts instead. Made a form tool with a convex shape to make the reflector concave. Polished them the same way as I polished the acrylics.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fnylykt.jpg&hash=c2e52836542cc0cdbf67bc37610107ce7945ce3e)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Flyktedeler_w.jpg&hash=6d4202e0982d894b2928825a3b5012a5292b90bc)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fnylykt_02.jpg&hash=f155d1eed76d6a3411945a3fb1898a1a0daa1c9d)
The surface of the brass is a bit rough, I should have used a fresh cutting bit in the turning tool. But the enlargement is merciless, placed on the engine it will probably look just fine.
Well, a little progress is better than none!
-Hauk
That "turned" out great!
Wish i had thought of suggesting it.
Marty
Wow. Your madness is shining brightly. ;D
A nice solution, now if you were to make one that is oval how would you do it?
Michael
Quote from: michael mott on March 03, 2012, 10:52:09 PM
A nice solution, now if you were to make one that is oval how would you do it?
Michael
No idea. Fortunately, I have yet to find any oval parts on any of the prototype engines and rolling stock I am planning to build!
-Hauk
A little progress:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmodell_01.jpg&hash=3e30b6a56e3709e52ae6c3cc8469a23713a1605e)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmodell_02.jpg&hash=73af5fd827b4684c2e904ebb636c10a02a4ee71f)
This is my first attempt at a Westinghouse airhose with valve. The connectors are still to be made, but that will have to wait untill tomorrow. The hardware will also be blackened and weathered before final installation.
Regards, Hauk
Killer!!!
-Mj
Adequate. -- Russ
Impressive!
Quote from: finescalerr on April 01, 2012, 12:25:47 PM
Adequate. -- Russ
Wot? Only adeqauate!?!
We are aiming for excellency here, so here is the second attempt.
First, a rerun of the (growl) adequate part:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmodell_01.jpg&hash=3e30b6a56e3709e52ae6c3cc8469a23713a1605e)
For the second part I substituted the 0,6mm NS wire with 0,7mm brass. I chose a smaller nut size (0,8m compared to 1,0mm). Seems like the 0,8mm is actually 1.0 mm (wrench size).
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmodell_05.jpg&hash=0ef293c27b44e8a324118fbf484f47bb6450cf53)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmodell_06.jpg&hash=52c4423ffc84fd121978b4529ba05fe67087d512)
Seriously, I felt the first attempt was not quite right, the loose fitting of the nut near the hose was especially annoying. The second is much more proportional, the size of the nuts was just too large compared to the airpipe. The first nut was in fact 0,2 mm too large compared to the prototype, and this was enough to make things look wrong in my opinion. I know that this is nitpicking bordering on the meaningless, but it gives me a kick to see how far I can push it. And isn´t that what serious modelling is about in many ways?
Regards, Hauk
Even better!
I find once I put pictures on here and I really look at them, then I see the flaws!
Have you tried reaming the threads from the nuts so you can use smaller nuts or larger rod?
-Marty
That is so cool. Excellent work!!!!!
Jerry
Quote from: lab-dad on April 02, 2012, 04:58:34 AM
Even better!
I find once I put pictures on here and I really look at them, then I see the flaws!
Have you tried reaming the threads from the nuts so you can use smaller nuts or larger rod?
-Marty
Macro photography is very unforgiving! The reason for all my detail images is not just to bore/entertain this forum´s readers, but also to check my work.
Regarding reaming, the smaller nuts are indeed reamed to fit on the rod. The nuts are correct, but the rod is slightly oversize. I did not have any 0,6 brass wire, so I used 0,7 mm. It was more important to have an all brass valve than to have a pipe exactly the right diameter. No matter how hard you try there are always compromises!
Regards, Hauk
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on April 02, 2012, 11:48:58 AM
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Well now we are talking!
Got all four done this evening. A full days work, it is incredible how long things take.
Next up: Glazing the windows and final weathering.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmodell_08.jpg&hash=2b81dedf4d9933584f480b2dd000fa5559ba4f09)
Regards, Hauk
Very neat work ................ and times 4 , impressive
Beautiful work! And, yes, it is amazing how much time those "little" details take ... but when done right (as you've done), they make such a remarkable difference. -- Dallas
Quote from: Malachi Constant on April 02, 2012, 02:58:19 PM
Beautiful work! And, yes, it is amazing how much time those "little" details take ... but when done right (as you've done), they make such a remarkable difference. -- Dallas
Thanks to all for the positive feedback!
The ironic twist to this tale is that I suddenly realised that all the rolling stock that I probably will ever build has those valves.
So I should really have made a master and have the darn things casted in brass.
But it is great to give the good old hand/eye coordination a proper workout every once in a while!
Incredible work! I don't think I'd have that much patience.
Great job! I am always amazed!
The original model should be built about 2% larger, since the rubber mold shrinks. With a form of silicon about 0.5%.
On the other hand your 0.7mm wire will go a bit closer to 0.6 mm. :)
Quote from: fspg2 on April 03, 2012, 01:33:40 AM
Great job! I am always amazed!
The original model should be built about 2% larger, since the rubber mold shrinks. With a form of silicon about 0.5%.
On the other hand your 0.7mm wire will go a bit closer to 0.6 mm. :)
When I made the master for the axleboxes with leaf springs, I allowed for 4% shrinkage, and that worked out pretty well.
I will probably make a casting of the valv/airhose, but I wonder if I should include the hose with the actual connecting hardware. Since there was several different implementations of this valve/hose, I will make a long, straight casting that can be bent into shape.
Anyone that have tried to bend cast brass? Is it too brittle to bend into a curvatere like the one onmy hanbuilt parts?
From what I have seen, it is possible to cast brass in remarkably long and thin sections.
Regads, Hauk
Brass casting can be bent quite. I've just tried again. Even 2.5 mm can be bent, if a bit arduous!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8340%2F2903cast-brass_bent.jpg&hash=dbc109cfa1a99ab78e268294456d957e1fb88614)
Those parts from my G20 model ...years ago as I had built in scale 1:43,5.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7434%2F2903g20.jpg&hash=699aef623c47f262fdefc35a4d08f983004feac9)
Quote from: fspg2 on April 03, 2012, 06:25:11 AM
Brass casting can be bent quite. I've just tried again. Even 2.5 mm can be bent, if a bit arduous!
Thanks! Seems like it is quite posible to have the part cast straight, and then bend it to the final shape.
By the way, that airhose in the center of the picture seems like it sold have been used. Do you know if those castings are still available? Who manufactured them?
Regards, Hauk
Have a look at the online shop of Paul Petau: click (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=de&sl=auto&tl=no&u=http%3A%2F%2Fweb271.webgo24-server4.de%2FGambio%2Fproduct_info.php%3Finfo%3Dp17_bremskupplungen-drg-db-2x-nr-15.html)
He is the producer of this brake clutch.
Also, take a look at his other parts:
Original site in German (online shop): click here (http://web271.webgo24-server4.de/Gambio/index.php?XTCsid=d6ff705d050327a4b95f7815681a52df) and homepage: here (http://www.mbpetau.de/)
English translation (online shop):click here (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=de&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fweb271.webgo24-server4.de%2FGambio%2Findex.php%3FXTCsid%3Dd6ff705d050327a4b95f7815681a52df)
Norwegian translation (online shop):click here (http://web271.webgo24-server4.de/Gambio/index.php?XTCsid=d6ff705d050327a4b95f7815681a52df)
Quote from: fspg2 on April 03, 2012, 07:43:38 AM
Have a look at the online shop of Paul Petau
Thanks a lot for the links. Many interesting parts.
Regards, Hauk
Hauk,
The air hose assemblies are stunning....more jewlery than model.
Its official: This is no longer a work in progress!
Yesterday I added the final details to the engine, the whistles.
So now I consider this model done.
I may add a little more weathering when I am confident about my scenery colors. And who knows, may I will install a decoder some day. But for now, its *done*.
This must have been one the steepes learning curve I have ever travelled. When I started this project, I had zero metal working skills, I could hardly solder a feeder wire to a rail. My painting skills are still not that great, but for a first brass model it aint all that bad.
It took three generations of etchings to get it right. There are still some glitches, but I think it is virtually impossible to get a set of etchings with several hundred parts 100% correct.
The pantograph almost sank the project. I do not looking forward to make another one, but my next project have two of the darn things!
Thanks for all the encouragement, the feedback I have gotten here really helped to keep me going!
Some snapshots until the company photographer gets the delivery photos done:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fferdig_03_web.jpg&hash=56e269c46ea51582c53b96817e5e8390f94b2159)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fferdig_02_web.jpg&hash=8ff433803fb02b0b351f410c91ffa01308e932d3)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fferdig_01_web.jpg&hash=1935bce510ae603399093028014dbc41c6645cba)
Bring on the ASEA-engine (http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/tb_historiske/016_Lok8_side.jpg)!
Best regards,
Hauk
Excellent, in every respect. -- Russ
I think this is a beautiful build. This has been an amazing project to follow. The attention to detail, and the quality of craftsmanship are just outstanding. I may never use (or have the skill for) most of the methods and techniques you have shown and shared, yet I have find them to be an invaluable source information..... a truly enjoyable educational expierence. ...and, both humbling and inspirational. Thank you.
You should be extremely proud of this build.
Now you better get started on that article for Russ mag ;)
Marc
I agree with what Russ and Marc have said... beautiful build Hauk. I can't imagine any part of it that's lacking in any way. Well done...
Paul
Nice to get out of your comfort zone with a steep learning curve and produce something as special as this!
Feels good doesn't it?
Fantastic! And I'm completely gob-smacked by the fact that you had no previous metal-working experience. The final product looks like the work of a pro!
Beautiful work!
Excellent! The weathering is really nice. But your attention to the technical details is even more remarkable!
Most excellent ............... it certainly carries the "Look"!
The weathering is subtle - and spot on [the headlight could do with a bit of light tarnishing??] and it passes the "macro test" very well. You know the one where you think you've done real good and then you get the photo's back!!!
Marvellous stuff.
Thanks a lot for the kind words!
I have said it before, but it is the "peer review" you get on a forum like this that counts. Most people are clueless when it comes to scale modelling. And even if it is nice that friends and family are somewhat impressed, it really does not count for much.
And a quite unique thing with this board is that people actually dare to critisise each other. I hope that this will continue, as there is always room for improvement. I certainly hope to improve on my painting and weathering skills, for instance.
On this model I chickened out on the weathering, the prototype engine was way more battered and dirty. But I did not trust my skills, and I would have hated screwing up so close to the finish line! So when my skills have improved, I will probably go back and weather it more. By then I may also have sorted out the colors I am going to use for my scenery. Not that I will have an layout anytime soon, but I have a couple of dioramas on the way.
Regards, Hauk
Fantastic work Hauk :o! Hope to see it live AGAIN at the Norra Sandby show in October.
Anders
Quote from: Junior on April 08, 2012, 07:13:11 AM
Fantastic work Hauk :o! Hope to see it live AGAIN at the Norra Sandby show in October.
Anders
Plane tickets are booked, so I will be there!
Really look forward to see your workshop.
Regards, Hauk
Beautiful! Such a lovely piece, I envy what you've achieved here!
Quote from: JohnTolcher on April 08, 2012, 10:25:17 PM
Beautiful! Such a lovely piece, I envy what you've achieved here!
And we all envy what you have achieved with your modelling . In fact this whole forum is built on envy !
Hauk ,
Wonderfully modelling ( I think of it more as engineering ) and the paintwork is just right . You should be very pleased with what you have built ,
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 09, 2012, 12:22:15 AM
Quote from: JohnTolcher on April 08, 2012, 10:25:17 PM
Beautiful! Such a lovely piece, I envy what you've achieved here!
And we all envy what you have achieved with your modelling . In fact this whole forum is built on envy !
Hauk ,
Wonderfully modelling ( I think of it more as engineering ) and the paintwork is just right . You should be very pleased with what you have built ,
Nick
Thanks for the praise, but I really have to disagree with the claim that this form is built on envy.
In my opinion, this forum is built on the love and respect of craftsmanship and the joy of sharing.
Regards, Hauk
PS: OK, I have to admit that I envy John´s painting skills just a little bit. That WWI tank...
Stunning!! ;D To me the paint and weathering looks perfect for a well maintained working locomotive. Nothing over the top - just absolutly, spot on perfect!
I can't wait to see your next project.
Hauk, I'm a bit late in adding my congratulations to lovely looking outcome to this build.....most of the time I have just been stunned with what you achieved during this build, the pantograph being one of my favourite bits.
It has been great lesson on what can be achieved using new techniques & materials when you are brave enough and persistent as you have been in looking always to achieve the highest quality and not accepting anything less.
So what is next?
Quote from: gfadvance on April 09, 2012, 10:33:57 AM
So what is next?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Ftb_historiske%2F016_Lok8_side.jpg&hash=6d467aa09a3658ed142158bf03c59cd2bd585ac0)
Regards, Hauk
That came out beautifully! So crisp and cleanly made. The weathering is fine, it helps hi-light the excellent construction. Great job!
Quote from: Hauk on April 09, 2012, 11:02:01 AM
Quote from: gfadvance on April 09, 2012, 10:33:57 AM
So what is next?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Ftb_historiske%2F016_Lok8_side.jpg&hash=6d467aa09a3658ed142158bf03c59cd2bd585ac0)
Regards, Hauk
No , you've done that . Try something with curves !
Nick
Like a beautiful girl in a thong bikini? -- ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on April 10, 2012, 12:51:27 AM
Like a beautiful girl in a thong bikini? -- ssuR
You are twisted... ;)
Paul
Must you always state the obvious? -- ssuR
Hauk,
Great article in the Narrow Gauge & Industrial Review ...... both Interesting and informative, the construction of the pantograph remains a wonder to me ( and now I find out you made two of them!)
The last two photographs of the model are in the Mr Doan class
Wow still dribbling -inspiration to blow your mind !!
Barney
Very nice and a great subject !!
Do you have an idea yet on what you are going to use for track work ?
Happy to hear that there are a few Review readers on this board. I just love that magazine, I just wonder why it took me so long to discover it.
As I consider the Annuals books and not magazines, the Review is simply the best modeling magazine in my opinion. It is everything the Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette could have been.
Regarding track work, I think I will hand lay all the track I eventually will build. If I ever get around to building a layout (unfortunately not very likely) I might look for some flextrack for hidden/staging tracks.
But as I am using fine scale standards very close to Proto48 I have bought som castings from American Switch & Signal. They should work well for my type of turnouts.
regards, Hauk
Hello Hauk,
regarding the track work, maybe the following link is of use to you ; http://wenz-modellbau.eshop.t-online.de/epages/Store_Shop00671.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop00671/Categories/gleisbau0m (http://wenz-modellbau.eshop.t-online.de/epages/Store_Shop00671.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop00671/Categories/gleisbau0m)
Regards,
Marc
Quote from: Marc988 on July 10, 2012, 01:46:07 PM
Hello Hauk,
regarding the track work, maybe the following link is of use to you ; http://wenz-modellbau.eshop.t-online.de/epages/Store_Shop00671.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop00671/Categories/gleisbau0m (http://wenz-modellbau.eshop.t-online.de/epages/Store_Shop00671.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop00671/Categories/gleisbau0m)
Regards,
Marc
Thanks for The tip!
I am familiar with the Wenz products. I bought one of their turnout kits in 0m, but I found them a bit overpriced as I consider it basically a scratch builders aid more than an actual kit.
Regards, Hauk
Hello Hauk,
After reading the thread again and your other articles, I read you made the etch drawings on your Mac.
I recently changed to a Mac and would like to try to make some etchings.
Could you tell me which program you used to make the drawings for the etchings ?
Thanks in advance,
Marc
Quote from: Marc988 on July 16, 2012, 11:32:52 AM
Hello Hauk,
After reading the thread again and your other articles, I read you made the etch drawings on your Mac.
I recently changed to a Mac and would like to try to make some etchings.
Could you tell me which program you used to make the drawings for the etchings ?
Thanks in advance,
Marc
As an architect I have access to several CAD-programs at work. For the etching artwork I used VectorWorks.
But you do not need to use professional CAD software for this type of work. What you need is vector-based drawing program. Adobe Illustrator should work, and I think that there is an CAD plugin for Illustrator that might be useful.
Some very goog etchings has been made using relatively simple and cheap software like CorelDraw. Tobias Ljung, for instance, used this software for his etchings. He has an article about pthat on his homepage:
http://www.ljungz.com/trains/ljungs_mech/techniques/etching.html (http://www.ljungz.com/trains/ljungs_mech/techniques/etching.html)
there are also several free CAD programs available, but I have never looked into them, and I do not know how many there are for the Mac.
Hope this was somewhat helpful!
Regards,
Hauk
By the way, did I mention that I built two engines in parallell?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FWebbilder_2012%2Fwestinghouse_10_w.jpg&hash=1f1cf7ffc35c669713582d32904b88af7b017c10)
Regards, Hauk
So what happened to number 1? ::)
Amazing work. Please keep posting.
Quote from: artizen on August 22, 2012, 03:29:34 AM
So what happened to number 1? ::)
All parts including wheels and mechanism are just waiting to be built. But building the third engine has a rather low priority. A string of ore cars and some track to run everything on is at the top of the list!
Regards, Hauk
Whatever compliment I may have written about the first model applies equally to the second. -- Russ
Hauk- i read the entire thread today, and I am new to this forum. In fact, this is my first post. Since all the superlatives have been used, I will say that I admire your work because of the perseverance shown in attacking aspects of modeling beyond your comfort level. And for my part, that you introduced me to a different world of modeling mediums and methods such as CAD, etchings, lost wax castings, CNC, ceramic foam, and even soldering. Thanks for inspiring me to try one or more of these in my next project. Mike
Hauk,
just great! Now two overhead lines, extending the rails at the front right, a figure behind the pane.... and you've got a 150% illusion. The perspective is great! Five stars!
Are they run capable meantime?
Not a Photoshop double? Wow!
Quote from: fspg2 on August 23, 2012, 10:27:10 AM
Hauk,
just great! Now two overhead lines, extending the rails at the front right, a figure behind the pane.... and you've got a 150% illusion. The perspective is great! Five stars!
Are they run capable meantime?
Yes, they are wired to run on regular two-rail power. If I dont go DCC in the near future, I will probably use the overhead for constant lighting.
Regards, Hauk
Just catching back up with the thread Hauk. Two are better than one especially when they look so beautful sitting next to each other.
Jerry
Quote from: Chuck Doan on August 23, 2012, 11:39:51 AM
Not a Photoshop double? Wow!
I like to think of this prosject as making a custom kit rather than scratchbuilding. I think the second engine took one tenth of the time. The third one might go together even faster.
Regards, Hauk
Double-stunning!
Quote from: artizen on August 22, 2012, 03:29:34 AMSo what happened to number 1? ::)
Amazing work. Please keep posting.
A good question that has been unanswered for more than eleven years!
Work on number 1 has finally begun. It will start life as an engine dismantled for a main revision displayed in the workshop diorama described in the Shadowbox-thread (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2713.285)
For this third engine I decided to make some small improvments on the trucks, so I milled the holders for the spring hangers from solid brass instead of forming them from strips of brass.
But these buggers are small, just 1.6X2X2mm. The biggest problem with milling such parts are holding them firmly in place during the machining process. For bigger parts i mostly use two-sided carpet tape for holding, but for thes parts the holding area is way to small.
So I started by soldering a 10X60mm piece of 1,6mm engravers brass to a 10X10 bar of brass. A brass bar like this soaks up a lot of heat, so i used a large propane torch for heating up the parts. For solder I used Carrs 179deg. solder cream.
The brass bar was then placed in a small machine vise.
First operatian was drilling the 0.8mm holes. This was done with a feed of 2mm/sec. The holes were "peck-drilled" 0,4mm at a time.
Then a 3-cutter 3mm flat endmill was used to mill the parts. Feed was 3mm/s, spindle speed "5" on the Kress motor wich i guess is 25000 rpm.
I used some spray-can machining oil that seems to make maching brass a little easier, even if most folks say that brass can be machined dry.
There was a little burr on the parts, but it was easily sanded off with some grade 400 emery paper.
fresing_02_W.jpg
fresing_03_w.jpg
PS: As mentioned before, these parts are small, and in a flash of foresight I made 6 more holders than needed!
Adequate. -- Russ
Nice parts, Hauk. Well done!
Bernhard
Thank you for all the kind words!
The posts in this thread will mostly be a rerun of a very old show, but I will try to include at least a nugget of some useful information in every post.
I must admit that I also have an egoistic reason for this as I often use my own forum posts for reference!
Here are two of the hanger fasteners in their proper location:
IMG_2853.jpeg
Gosh, that looks good, Hauk.
Quote from: Bill Gill on November 26, 2023, 06:37:42 AMGosh, that looks good, Hauk.
Thanks Bill!
One of the reasons I really enjoy building in metal is that the work Looks great even in the pre-paint stage.
In fact, I sometimes think models look better in bare metal than painted!
Yes, I feel the same way. Especially when the model consists of a combination of brass, nickel silver and steel, I think it's almost a shame to cover everything with paint.
Bernhard
And you have some modellers that has concluded that it IS indeed a shame to cover all that delicious metal with paint.
The Italian master modeller Attorio Mari is one that comes to mind:
mari_web_01.jpg
I have mentioned him on this forum before, but perhaps some of you have missed it:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCogNW6AeAyy9d9Q3PDnvyAA
A stunningly beautiful model. -- Russ
Wow!
It is always sooo inspiring to see the quality of fine workmanship that regularly appears on this forum. It gives me something to aspire to and work to achieve in my model work. Anyway, superior work Hauk.
Stuart you have summed it up with some great words -
Barney
Thanks for all the encouragement!
I'm trying to improve my milling skills, so I make some parts on the router that I might not have bothered to make if I didn't need the practice.
Here are some cosmetic parts that will be completely hidden from view when the engine is assembled, they are just for showing off in the workshop diorama:
IMG_2967.jpeg
Hauk, With that level of skill it's not "showing off", it's demonstrating.
If you keep turning out work of that quality, please continue. -- Russ
Nice work!
A little progress on the trucks/boggies. I am quite pleased with the slightly scruffy results. In my opinion, the precision of CNC combined with my imperfect craftsmanship suits the engineering of a prototype built just after 1900.
IMG_3012.jpeg
Awesome!
I see no obvious imperfection. Paint will hide whatever you see and the result will be superb. -- Russ
I completely agree with Russ. I don't see any imperfection either.
Bernhard
What I really enjoy about this forum is that it is frequented by true Gentlemen!
But it is not coquetry that I point out these deficiencies; they are, of course, entirely real. If we take the pictures of the parts straight from the milling machine, we can clearly see that there are some extra drill holes and rough edges on the parts (The centering plates for the bolsters) to the far left. In the picture of the finished axle box with the leaf springs and hangers, it is quite evident that the spring hanger rods are not 100% parallel. This is due in part to discrepancies between critical dimensions on etched parts versus cast parts, some limitatations to the relatively cheap CNC-router but most importantly, the limitations of my craftmanship. Since perfection is never achievable for any of us (with possible exception for Chuck Doan), the question is whether our best is good enough.
Personally, I formulate the question as follows: When I do my best, is the result good enough to justify continuing with this?
Hello Hauk,
It's always nice to marvel at your little works of art.
I assume that each of us can achieve the "perfection" we are trying to achieve.
Perfect is relative. We can usually only be as good as our abilities and possibilities allow at the time.
If you do your best today, it doesn't mean that you won't be even better tomorrow.
We learn from each other and try to adapt many things, sometimes more and sometimes less successfully.
So please let us continue to participate in the many continuations of your perfect buildings so far!!!
These are questions I wrangle with all the time. Is my modeling improving? Is it good enough to share? While I'll always feel like my modeling is mediocre, the support from the members of this forum has encouraged me to keep at it.
At some point I arrived at a philosophy that works for me: I realized that everything I've produced was the best I could do UNDER THE CIRCUMSTANCES.
With books, magazines, and music there was never a chance to do it again. I have rebuilt some models, though. While they still may be less than absolutely perfect, they are the best I could do. Oh, well ....
Russ
I think perfection is one thing, having fun building is the other important aspect. I always try my best, but I know that my models are not perfect. But I've never let that spoil my enjoyment of the hobby so far.
Bernhard
What my painting teacher said at the school of fine art: we always think that what others do is better.
Which means that what we build seems imperfect to us.
What I like about this forum is that we all like the work well done and know how to question ourselves taking into account the advice of others.
That is what makes us progress.
An update so small you will be excused for calling it a bump.
Work on the cosmetic trucks for the scene continues. Making wheelsets are so much easier when ypu know they will never be used on an operating engine!
The 3D printed gears are designed from photos of the prototype, I used an online gear designing app for getting the correct pitch and size.
boggier_verksted_w.jpg
Lesson learned when trying to blacken the brass wheel centers: Do NOT use Birchwood Casey Aluminium Blackening anywhere near mild steel. The corrosion is terrible, and the look of the finish horrible. And the steel keeps corriding after trying to neutralize the process.
Birchwood Casey aside, the truck looks terrific. == Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on January 24, 2024, 12:12:01 AMBirchwood Casey aside, the truck looks terrific. == Russ
Thanks, Russ!
I'm a great fan of blackening compounds, but they do contain strong acids, and are somewhat metal specific (for reasons I've never bothered to fully explore).
I have a formulation that I believe is for the 'lead' in stained glass fabrication that works well on brass and solder (not so well on lead free). Doesn't really affect steel. Gun blue obviously works well on steel, and does to a lesser extent work on brass/nickel silver, but is slow. Doesn't work on solder. I don't use aluminium in model making, but I guess there is a specific product for this for a reason. Sounds like I should avoid it.
Quote from: Lawrence@NZFinescale on January 24, 2024, 09:01:53 AMI'm a great fan of blackening compounds, but they do contain strong acids, and are somewhat metal specific (for reasons I've never bothered to fully explore).
I have a formulation that I believe is for the 'lead' in stained glass fabrication that works well on brass and solder (not so well on lead free). Doesn't really affect steel. Gun blue obviously works well on steel, and does to a lesser extent work on brass/nickel silver, but is slow. Doesn't work on solder. I don't use aluminium in model making, but I guess there is a specific product for this for a reason. Sounds like I should avoid it.
Blackening is a bit of a black art at times, and my results are somewhat mixed. The best results have been achieved with very diluted solutions (1:200) and immersion of the parts for several days.
I think I read somewhere that the aluminum blackening worked really well on brass, and that's why I tried it. I did not stop to think about how it would work on steel.
What was most worrisome is that it looks like that the corrosion process continues after the parts have been thoroughly rinsed.
I have been under the impression that all blackening solutions are acids, and that a strong base solution will neutralize the blackening.
I would be very happy if anyone with more chemical knowledge than me could enlighten me!
My understanding is that gun blue (presumably others are broadly similar) is typically phosphoric acid, selenious acid and a copper salt.
On reaction a coating of copper selenide is deposited. The metal salt and acid strength may well vary for other blackening solutions, but I believe the selenium is a constant.
An online search will turn up the MSDS sheets for exact contents, but it's probably not all that helpful unless you have the knowledge to interpret it (which I don't)
A soak in bicarbonate of soda/baking soda should fix it, but the concern (as with flux) is that some reagent may wick around by capillary action and not be thoroughly washed out. I tend to use an ultrasonic bath, which helps.
This cosmetic truck looks really good. Can you tell me what app you used to construct the gears and what material they are printed from? Is the material suitable for an operational model?
Bernhard
Quote from: Bernhard on January 25, 2024, 06:02:16 AMThis cosmetic truck looks really good. Can you tell me what app you used to construct the gears and what material they are printed from? Is the material suitable for an operational model?
I've printed gears of various sorts for cosmetic use. They certainly 'work' (as in mesh etc), but I wouldn't be that keen to use them in something that might see more than light use. Henkel/Loctite make a high impact printing resin (and there are others), that would probably be best for a functional print. It's a bit miserable to use as it's viscous, slow and hard to clean up - but the results are fine.
You could cast them in brass from a print though. They would need lapping in, but would work for some applications. I imagine pretty well at low speed.
Quote from: Bernhard on January 25, 2024, 06:02:16 AMThis cosmetic truck looks really good. Can you tell me what app you used to construct the gears and what material they are printed from? Is the material suitable for an operational model?
Bernhard
I used the free calculator on this site:
https://evolventdesign.com/pages/spur-gear-generator#google_vignette
The gears are printed on an Anycubic Mono 2 resin printer. I doubt the gears would stand up in actual use. Mainly because the resin is quite brittle, but also because the teeth are exactly to scale. I think there are other printers and materials that are better suited for printing working gears.
Thank you Lawrence and Hauk. I almost thought that printed gears were only suitable for decorative purposes.
Bernhard
Quote from: Bernhard on January 25, 2024, 01:07:54 PMThank you Lawrence and Hauk. I almost thought that printed gears were only suitable for decorative purposes.
Bernhard
I did a quick search, and there are several youtube videos and webpages about printing working gears.
I have not tried this myself, but it looks interesting.
Truly remarkable miniature engineering
I'v enrolled for my flower arranging class again and my stamp collection is growing !
Barney
Hi Hauk.
That frame is amazing such a neat well thought out design.
cheers Kim
3D printed parts is a great help, but some assembly is indeed required.
The "bell" on the top motor was misplaced, so I needed to sand it away and replace it with a turned brass part. (The bell is a cover over the vent for the hot air from the motors, by the way)
Cables were formed from 0,5mm copper wire flattened and drilled to simulate terminals. Imitations of the plugs on the motor were made from 0,8mm brass tubing.
IMG_3420.jpeg
An overview of the truck before the wires were attached:
IMG_3373.jpeg
Beautiful work!
Impressive. -- Russ
Hi Håvard
Although I do not write here about my current work I am lurking around in the background very often. May be you remember my similar project of a narrow gauge loco? That project came to a standstill as technical demands were too challenging for me on my kitchen table workspace.
Your approach (a mixture of brass and 3d parts) is very impressing and I must confess, it is very inspiring too !!!
So today I reopened the cartons with the parts at least. ::) I hope I will be able to recover this project one day. If so, your work here would have been the key input.
All the best,
Peter
Peter, please finish the project. If you need help, just ask. Many of us do that. -- Russ
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on February 05, 2024, 03:55:14 AMYour approach (a mixture of brass and 3d parts) is very impressing and I must confess, it is very inspiring too !!!
So today I reopened the cartons with the parts at least. ::) I hope I will be able to recover this project one day. If so, your work here would have been the key input.
I really hope you will restart your project!
If there is something I can do to help, please let me know.
And as Russ wrote, I am sure that there are others that would love to help out.
But of couse there WILL be setbacks. I had one myself as late as yesterday. On the last traction motor, the only thin remaining was cleaning up one of the holes for the wires. Using a 0,5mm drill bit, I was painfully aware that there was a real danger of breaking the drill. And of course that was what happened. I tried to get a grip on it with a pair of pliers, but could not get a grip. I then drilled three holes in a triangle around the brass tubing with the broke bit. This way I got the broken bit out. With a 3mm drill I was able to make a clean, round hole that could be plugged with a bit of 2mm styrene rod. The rod was a bit tight, so I had the brilliant idea that I could HAMMER it into place. Yeah, I know... This was the result:
IMG_3423.jpeg
It's the sort of fiasco that almost make me want to give up modeling.
Fortunately, my friendly 3D print provider had included a set of spare parts, so after a short modeling session tonight I had a complete set of motors.
So don't give up! Dive into those boxes and get going. And again, do not hesitate to ask for help.
So, so familiar!
Sorry to see your disasters, but reassuring to know it isn't only me.
To your point about help, I'm quite happy to help people with printing, casting and etching if needed.
Quote from: Lawrence@NZFinescale on February 05, 2024, 01:18:51 PMSo, so familiar!
Sorry to see your disasters, but reassuring to know it isn't only me.
To your point about help, I'm quite happy to help people with printing, casting and etching if needed.
I think it is important to show every now and then that modeling ain't always smooth sailing! There are lessons to be learned, and comfort to be found in the fact that we all mess things up occasionally.
Most of the time it works out in the end.
image0.jpeg
Yes, I know that too. But giving up is never an option. This truck is getting better and better!
Bernhard