The only drawing I was able to fine for this little loco was the one side view. I did not know the scale of the drawing or if there is any other views in the book "Thunder In The Mountains". My drawing is just a guess. I don't know what other photos are out there, this is all I have.
The wheels and the start of the frame and boiler.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2492%2F3715205264_f422a6d237_b.jpg&hash=59a2953e7358d608f6c8b743be65e2cd6b5bc85a)
My drawing with the painting by Steve Allely on the cover of the Sept/Oct 1984 Gazette.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3445%2F3714394919_8e0e819363_b.jpg&hash=0397fed0601d204598d8d75c3cc9e118fea4b7d9)
http://www.gearedsteam.com/other/other_opqr.htm
http://www.cagenweb.com/madera/MadHistory.html
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
here a scan of the full page with front and rear views from the book Thunder in the mountains from Hank Johnston.
There are also a 20 photographs showing mor or less details of the loco.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1530%2Fphotos%2F7%2F1437817%2F7407986%2Fbetsy1-vi.jpg&hash=22fc3f68748f3dce54a7d68c653f68dafcee9a06)
Maybe someone can get you a undistorted print for you, so you can measure.
I am looking forward to see this evolve.
Jacq
Gordon, I have a copy of the book if you need the plan or some photocopies. -- Russ
Thank guys for your input. Russ I would love to see a better view of the two ends and any close up of the back head or cylinder area.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Looks like you're off to another great start, Gordon.
This is going to be fun to watch.
(What did you slice to make the wheel treads?)
Ken, the wheel tread is made from Traditional ABS Round Tubing from Plastruct. "Code TB" this tube runs from 1-1/2" to 6" O.D. I used the 2" TB 200 for the wheel treads and 2-1/4" TB 225 for the boiler.It comes in 18" length and was around 7.00 each I cut this with my Cut off saw with a 8-1/4 finishing Blade 40 Carbide teeth. The Gray in the middle of the wheels are Rings/flanges also from Plastruct "code RI" these run from 5/8 to 2-13/16"great stuff for the scratch builder.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon
I thought you might rest for a bit. Looks to be another interesting thread to follow.
And you have already started!!
Jerry
Yikes. Mighty fine work for a big saw like that.
Beautiful work, Gordon. Thanks for the Plastruct info.
I was just looking at that cover this morning and thinking what a wonderful model this would be, and then logged on and noticed the link to 'unread post since last visit', and here was this thread. Going to be watching this carefully.. perfect timing!!
Very cool. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
Here are three photos of the Boiler and Water Tank. Now on to the Frame.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2525%2F3747229771_9291bd74f7_b.jpg&hash=f26c1d290f9ba38423e539f870824cdfafaca432)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2671%2F3748019184_9868199c66_b.jpg&hash=a08b2843ae154bec17ec5ac04470d17aff4a097d)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2439%2F3748019076_cc47a11b23_b.jpg&hash=fc45d6181b1974038b1b0f9957cb513ec3183cc2)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Wow...is this the essence of scratchbuilding or what.
Breaking down a prototype into simple shapes, duplicated them
perfectly in scale and putting them all togther as a recognizable object.
Beautiful job, Gordon.
Between you and Chuck, we're going home.
Thanks Ken for your comments. And sometimes the shapes aren't so simple. This was my first U shape water tank.
Gordon Birrell, I love working with Styrene.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Is this already developing into another masterpiece or what? Way to go, Gordon!
By the way, for those of you building in smaller scales, the current RMC has an article about building HO tank cars. The rivet detail on the model was unusually neat so I found the part of the article where the author explained what he did: He applied Archer rivet decals -- resin rivets on decal film. They are available in various sizes and spacings. While I haven't yet checked out Archer's website I suspect they are usable up to 1:48 scale.
Russ
Gordon,
you are going like a rocket. We can't keep up finding those little steam critters :D :D
Russ,
the Archer products appears to offer a large amount of possiblities, nor only rivets, but also welding beads, casting numbers, etc. Something for Marc with his militairy projects.
http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html (http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html)
Jacq
Gordon
Good God man!! That is one beautiful piece of work. You just seem to amaze us all.
Jerry
It may have been your first u shaped tank, but you got it right. Certainly seems destined to be another excellent build.
I have seen her with a wood cab and an open one (roof only). Have you decided which you will do?
Thanks guys for your comments and info. Chuck if I do this engine again it will be more like the one on the cover of the Gazette. This model will be more like the drawing. I will keep the cab as open as possible. The wood on the end beams and the wood running boards will help keep the model balanced.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Hello compadres,
about Archer Transfert Rivets:
did a model maker of the forum already use this type of rivet, and will be able to show us the result in photo?
This system seems interesting for many scratchbuilt models!!!
Thanks and sincerely!
Lloyd
Hello Scratchman,
Your skills for working with Styrene... perfection in more ways than one.
Great craftsmanship Scratchman.. It has been a pleasure to wittness such workings.
Mike
Here are two more photos, before painting. Now onto the cab.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2595%2F3760531006_0493b78776_b.jpg&hash=b600f0a6a384f28069c4437b34b96649228c42cd)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2434%2F3759733709_e889e9f21e_b.jpg&hash=ab70c8a4a8a06e9d923ee18481ed2c3e3afc7be4)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Wow....is this Kool. I love how you do those gears, Gordon.
PS: Congrats on the article in the new "Annual". It's always inspiring to see your stuff in print.
I just figured it out Gordon, :o
You must be the product of all the past steam builders rolled into one.
and they say re-incarnation is a myth....hehehe...
I have found your workings creeping into some of my daydreamming... only proves to me how impressionable your projects have been on me and I have no doubt on many others as well...
Beautiful...simply beautiful...
Mike
A True Fan of your skill....
Hey Gordon,
I had a question surface in my pea size brain...... ???
Is it detramental to the construction as well as the design, that it would be to know the extent of the tooling technology in the era deplicted in the subject?
and if so would it be those limitations in what determind the out come of the subjects lifecycle?
Ok so thats two questions....
Mike
Gordon, inspiring work. Thanks for always letting us in on the build process, I learn much from your posts.
I am amazed at your progress!
I concur with you Chuck.
It's like he has a shop full of little hard working Elves... :D ;D :D ;)
It's almost magical how fast his projects move along.
Mike
Thanks guys for your comments. Mike for your questions I have no idea.
Now that I have a scale plan I will start a new model of this loco.
With 8" longer wheel base.
With 4" larger wheel diameter.
With 4" higher frame channels.
with 4' 0" longer from end to end.
With 4" larger boiler diameter.
The boiler 1' 6" longer
The water tank 1' 0" longer and so on.
This is how far I was off with my first model. The new model will look more like the painting on the cover of the Gazette.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here are two more photos with the cab.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2478%2F3773779338_34908380d2_b.jpg&hash=4adabba397988e8fa59dc816b525ed6037263f71)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3583%2F3773779174_9095d4d156_b.jpg&hash=b9565d792518bccc076de1fdc7ade2fd96739332)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Well done Gordon,
A little out of spec or not it is still a beautiful creation.
(a mechanical/machinery built whithout plans would be a challenge most would not undertake)
(not to mention actually ending up being that close to the plan spec's)
Very well done... IMO
Mike
Looks great Gordon, can't wait to see this one finished. Question, what have you found best to glue styrene to wood, 5 min epoxy, Krazy Glue? Thanks Sean
Sean, The two glues I uses are Testors liquid plastic cement. This is for styrene to styrene and for rivets and nut bolt casting onto wood. To glue wood to wood or wood to styrene I go with a Cyanoacrylate Super Thin 1-3 sec. most of the time but I will go with the Extra Thick 10-25 sec. on some things.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Thanks Gordon, I will have to try that. I like the way you get all of the rivets straight, you must have a steady hand. Even with a line drawn in for placement I still find the need to fiddle with them after they are glued and usually end up turning the rivet into a pile of plastic goo. How do you go about this? Thanks again. Sean
Does anybody use Walther's "GOO" anymore?
I actually use it quite a bit for styrene-to-wood joints.
Old habits die hard............
I use Goo a lot in many applications. Even though it's a little tricky to control its stringy quality, it is very strong, lasts virtually forever, can be removed with lacquer thinner, and I can roll away any excess completely with a toothpick. That gives me better control over the finish than I would have with other glues. It is nice to see a top modeler who appreciates its qualities. -- Russ
Quick question, Gordon: Do you drill each of your rivet locations and install the heads
with the pins, or do you cut the heads off flush and scootch them around in a dab of
liquid cement until they're in the right place?
(...As you may have guessed by my familiarity with the technique, I use Method #2)
"scootch" them around? I'm not familiar with this technological lingo. ;)
I too would be interested in knowing how you do the rivet and bolt head layout at such perfect increments Gordon.
Ken,when adding the castings on styrene I will cut off the rod and glue with liquid plastic cement. When adding to thin wood like the channels on the frame I will cut off the rod and glue with liquid plastic cement and this will take more applications of glue. When the wood is thick enough I will drill holes and leave the rod on. My section house in last year's Modelers' Annual has hundreds of castings holding on the corrugated sheets and I drilled holes for all of them. This is only for the smaller castings. I will use a cyanoacrylate on larger castings and parts.
How to add rivets:
Mark out the location with a pencil.
Cut off the heads.
Use a single-edge razor blade and I like working on a pad of paper. I will do a full spur and place them all upright on the pad. I don't know if other liquid plastic cements will act the same or not. I use Testors. I brush on the the cement and with the tip of a sharp razor blade pick up the casting and place it on the marks, pushing them into the cement. After I have a few in place I will brush on more cement. Note, keep the cement thin and don't puddle it.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
After you place the rivets and brush on more cement, do you find that any excess cement is easily covered with painting? I am working on a Panzer IV right now and I have a couple parts that I got a bit heavy handed with the solvent application and those areas concern me with painting.
John
Thanks, Gordon.
That's pretty much the attachment sequence I use, except I find that trying to pick up
a rivet head with the tip of a blade usually results in the casting flying into oblivion.
I use a toothpick with a small dab of dried GOO at the end (...there's that GOO again, Russ...)
which provides just enough "stick" to pick up the head but release it when the casting is laid
on the solvent-moistened styrene.
Thanks for the insight, Gordon. Keep those in-progress pics coming!
Chester, if the rivet is a skidge off, you have to scootch it back into place. Dont forget to moosh it into the glue. (Don't smoosh, that would be too much)
Everytime I read how you guys do some new technics, I have to pick up my dictionary to understand what you all mean.
Good for my English though :D
But now I am off the track. Scootch, moosh, smoosh???
Leon
Chuck, go stand in the corner. And no peeking. -- Russ
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
search: "Moosh" can refer to;
Muş (Մուշ in Armenian), a town in modern Turkey
(موش) Mouse in Persian
a character in The Legend of Zelda: Oracle of Ages and Seasons
Australian slang for "mouth"
Mike ::) :P ::)
Gordon, WOW :o.....very nice work. question? what scale is Old Betsy. Craig mich
Craig, the model is 1:16 scale. I have been working on the second loco and it is closer to the drawing.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Quote from: Chuck Doan on August 04, 2009, 08:34:46 AM
Chester, if the rivet is a skidge off, you have to scootch it back into place. Dont forget to moosh it into the glue. (Don't smoosh, that would be too much)
Not only is this thread full of great modelling, but you'll also find some almost Shakespearian poetry...
Here are two photos of the second loco. Now the work can go forward on both locos.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2559%2F3857143355_106baf0fa7_b.jpg&hash=b3837ae226df5e8c98d9833b3f242c6c73715461)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3524%2F3857932982_570d7381f7_b.jpg&hash=4a45a0f864cb8e866f609bc21d267730ee58cc78)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Wow, I wish I could work as fast as you do!
I do alright when everything's flowing, but often hit a snag that takes time to figure out a solution, or requires something I don't have and then I have to spend time tracking down what I need. Or I get stuck between projects, trying to decide what to do next and how best to do it.
Not bad, Gordon. -- Russ
.....not bad at all.
Here are two photos of both loco. You can see how far I was off with the first.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2634%2F3875378378_92b9ca718e_b.jpg&hash=7e8c3374aeec11bbf493937e645d745b81aa4705)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3418%2F3874589437_b1e871b2b5_b.jpg&hash=4bd55c2df65196bf565d8ebed01bf1530cfad372)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Who cares whether the first one was "far off"? It looks great anyway. Call it a freelance and nobody will complain. I think both are outstanding. -- Russ
They both look great! BTW, what is the thing sticking out of the smokestack?
Hey Gordon,
I must concur with russ on this one... ;D
They both are great pieces of fine craftsmanship..
Mike
Ray, that stack is not finished. I still have to add a top section. The 1/16" piece of brass tubing goes into a hole on top of the boiler and down to a hole at the bottom of the boiler. This is straight up and down and acts as a guide for the stack I took two old gear from an old alarm clock with the same diameter as the inside diameter of the stack. I placed one on the tube at the bottom and one near the top with a 3/32" piece of tubing for a spacer between the two gears. Now the stack will be straight when placed over the two gears. This also acts as a good anchoring system for the stack.You can see the top gear in the top photo on page 4 of this thread.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I agree with Russ too Gordon. You never know, you could always claim the first was a preliminary version subsequently discarded at the customer's request from the original builder's drawing board! Outstanding work on both versions...
Paul
QuoteCall it a freelance and nobody will complain
Quoteyou could always claim the first was a preliminary version
This is what I call a REAL prototype..
Gordon, the urge to built as close as possible to the original is producing fantastic models, ready for the best musea.
Jacq
I have got the stacks and sand boxes finished and painted.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2600%2F4118115917_b953e04402_b.jpg&hash=2b7d25e0f56ed6c5f5655025f6f1697a10fd012f)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
better than the original.
Jacq
Simply beautiful work.
Unrelated...but maybe of interest for you for a future subject/build of unique locos,...I came across the images below in my files.
M
Here is another...this I believe is a Lidgerwood Locomotive...I have an image of this loco type of loco in an old late 1890's catalog if interested.
M
Thanks Marc for the great images. The third one down Is one strange looking unit. The forth one looks like it could be a sister to the Bear Harbor lumber company # 1 Built by Marshutz & Cantrell. Is Lidgerwood locomotives a west coast company?
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
Lidgerwood was a company out of New York, The were not locomotive builders, but rather boiler and hoisting and conveying machinery builders. they were a major player/mfr.....like AH&D, Clyde, Willamette,....they built all sort sof equipment for construction, quarries, mining, logging, grading, excavating etc., and for some reason they decided to build a small locomotive...but...the locomotive is shown in only one of their catalogs...the one prior to and following it, no longer show/list the locomotive...so I assume it was not a big seller. I'll dig out the catalog, and scan the page.
M
Some interesting contraptions! The Lidgerwood loco is sweet. The disconnect in front of it looks like it has a sprung bunk. Very unusual.
Chuck, great catch on those sprung bunks...I never even noticed. DOH! That is a really weird set-up...also the first time I have ever seen that.
MR
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 23, 2009, 01:06:39 PM
Chuck, great catch on those sprung bunks...I never even noticed. DOH! That is a really weird set-up...also the first time I have ever seen that.
MR
Agreed... that is unusual. And it appears that the axles are fixed, no suspension. Leads me to wonder how this worked... ???
Paul
A lot of the eary wooden disconnects were unsprung (fixed axles in roller bearing type journals)......examples in California that come immediately to mind are Shasta Mill Co, Round Mountain LCo., LaMoine LCo., Loma Prieta Lumber Co. & Molino Timber Co used O&K type steel frames under their flats (that had fixed beraings) as 4 wheel trucks......I know there are more...but that would require me putting some thought into the matter. ;D
MR
That Lingerwood Loco is neat.......wish Bachmann would put out a loco like that ;D in On3..........I wish :o Craig
FWIW...here are some pics of other unsprung disconnects I had on hand.
MR
I was going through my HD to see if I already had a scan of the catalog page...looks like I don't so will have to scan it....but I did come across some other stuff that made me think of you.
I thought the top heisler image was just incredible....it's just about the size of your usual locos.
MR
Two more of a Calif. loco.
MR
Got a higher res crop of the disconnects in the GB_2 jpeg? -- They look nice and simple, appear to have unsprung pillow-block type journals (as have been discussed on another thread), and may be typical enough for a lot of modeling applications. -- Russ
Russ,
Unfortunately tha is all I got on that one. If the images or not water-marked w/ my name, they tend to be from the web, a forum, or sent to me by someone.......in neither case can I usually remember from where/whom.
If you are thinking of this kind of car, I would stronly suggest the Round Mountain cars..a nice california prototype.....which I think Rick Marty here maybe can help you with....they are actually pretty cool...if I recall they had a brake platform extension with a lever ratchet brake on every other car. I have been wanting to build a set for years....but was too lazy to deal with the betchet and brake lever detail parts.....but mayvbe now with some of the laser cutting and PE tecnology it might be worth a go...especially in 1/35 or 1/32. If I can get some decent images of them, I can throw together a 3D CAD model with exploded parts view for you.
MR
Hi Marc,
The Champion mill was at Lyonsville, east of Red Bluff and Sierra Lumber was one of the for-runners of Diamond Match, as I'm sure you know. I believe that stuff at lyonsville was all meter gauge but I don't recognize that English looking loco that you posted pictures of, anything additional on it?
Thanks for all the cool pictures.
Rick Marty
That tiny Heisler is amazing. I didn't know they ever made any that small. Also, is it fireless? I don't see a smokestack.
Rick:
Which image are you referring to in regards to the British looking one? Is it the one above the image noted as "Champion Mills - Sierra LCo"?...if so, I believe that they are bot the same loco. I believe there was a sim one used on another operation in the Sierres (or maybe an earlier owner/version of SVLCo.)...but at the moment the name escapes me. :-\ I don't have any more info on the SVLCo loco that I know of off-hand (I have always sucked in retaining/remembering any info in the area of locomotive data/buillders/owners).
Ray: I didn't catch that little detail ;) Upon closer inspection of the image it looks like the stack might be out the top of the cab...but I don't know how that would be done (zero knowledge of boiler systems...other than fire, water, hot, and steam ;) )
Marc
Hi Marc,
Yes both pictures seem to be of he same loco. I just said English looking because of the round cab front windows. I have seen pictures of quite a number of loco's on/from the SLC at Lyonsville but don't recall that one. The picture caption on the second image identifies it as being from that location, and picture captions are always correct ::) :).
Are these some of the disconnects you were talking about earlier? (picture attached)
Later
Rick Marty
Yes, those are them. I think they are really cool. The timber subrail sytem in the image is great as well. Was the whole operation set up with timber subrails, or just the cribbed/elevated portions?
Heavens...captions can be wrong?!! :o ;) ;D
MR
Marc, Thanks for the great images. Ray, the stack is on the very back of the boiler just like the Oregon Pony. Look right below the whistle for the top. The stack look like it has a high-base and a top. That is a great little loco. Love to have a set of drawings for it.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here are two images of of my latest work on these two locos . These two models are my eleventh and twelfth 1:16 scale steam loco. The first two were built in the early 70s and the last ten since 2001. On the two early models and these last two I scratched all the pipe fittings. On the others I used some castings from Trackside Detail.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2668%2F4223515005_0d140c2caa_b.jpg&hash=961b1c884315f46bd5856a96cf01834df2b6779a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4022%2F4224280352_882c725e59_b.jpg&hash=0db0e14ad5491e0dd5c2adbf6f5a04ee11ceee21)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
super...this is modeling at it's finest.. ;D ;D
Jacq
Gordon, I really enjoy seeing your models come together. Just beautiful work. -- Russ
Beautiful plumbing! You are lucky to be able to scratch that stuff as nice fitting in that size are few and far between.
Same here, Gordon. "Beautiful work" is an understatement.
I like the un-painted photos, which clearly show how you
break down and scratchbuild each component.
Thanks for sharing that info.
Gordon, stunning as usual!
I would love to see some of the pieces that make up the fitting to see how you are building these.
May be an exploded view of the parts?
-Marty
I can only echo the compliments shared by others Gordon. What I love about your scratchbuilding style is the way you tackle complexity by breaking it down to simple steps. We all understand that concept but you seem to have mastered it. I'm also amazed at anybody that can pull off a scratchbuilt steam locomotive. All those pipes and fittings are a maze. It must take a lot of research to figure out where that all go and what they all do.
David
Awesome! I'm with Ken, I like seeing these details unpainted. Makes it so much easier to understand how you built up the various fittings.
Thanks guys for your comments. Marty I will do a little (How-To) on the pipe work and post it here in the next day or so.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
As a live steamer I am pretty familiar with all the piping! I look forward to the upcoming "how to".
30 years ago(wow can it really be THAT long?) the NGSLG ran a good series on piping with what I thought at the time was a catchy title.
I have some of those issues and they were very well done. Why doesn't the Gazette run articles like this anymore?
http://index.mrmag.com/tm.exe?opt=G&cmdtext=straight+talk+about+bent+pipes&MAG=ANY
Paul
Gordon:
Outstanding work on the plumbing... wonderful to see it at this stage prior to painting to fully appreciate all the components and effort. Looking forward to your "plumbing how-to"...
Paul
Wow!....I have run out of superlatives.
Marc
The model need to be painted now, so I can join the parts together and add the rest of the detail.
Still working on the (How-To) for the pipe work.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4059%2F4267350454_ec7efe8e16_b.jpg&hash=16d27e7b3938989b4f122926845f859ed83c2707)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2800%2F4266604145_5e1ea294a5_b.jpg&hash=0c7b8f6745d9b35b0562bdfb66a17c2e17a2c8e1)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Its almost like a drawing come to life! Great progress.
Just outstanding work Gordon. I particularly like the intricate, yet delicate feel to the chassis.
Paul
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Here are two photos of the second loco almost finished.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4026%2F4285431365_e3fd0bebb9_b.jpg&hash=cbccc90f1247df1a962f49bd5eb90fda26521b66)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2722%2F4286172364_d0dd6cbaaf_b.jpg&hash=439002b2a3a156c531e1717d81b6ae379148f8a7)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Just beautiful, Gordon! I read somewhere that the stack from this loco became a barbeque for a local cabin.
Gordon
Just beautiful! Perfection!!
Jerry
SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!
Lovely little loco!
Hoping for a little info on the plumbing, I need a 1/4" 90 degree elbow.
-Marty
Beautiful model as always.
Marc
Gordon,
That is very nice.
What are those large pipes hanging from the sides of the stack? I'm guessing cinder traps?
Satisfactory work, Gordon. Almost as good as I could do. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on January 19, 2010, 01:04:03 AM
Almost as good as I could do. -- Russ
You been drinking & dreaming again??? ;) ;) ;D
MR
Gordon,
You posted pictures of your finished Old Betsy yesterday
and MoLoCo announces the upcoming release of their Old Betsy
This morning.
Just coincidence I guess.
Later
Rick Marty
:o amazing work..I anxiously await your plumbing tutorial?
Philip
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 19, 2010, 01:33:32 PM
Quote from: finescalerr on January 19, 2010, 01:04:03 AM
Almost as good as I could do. -- Russ
You been drinking & dreaming again??? ;) ;) ;D
MR
I think perhaps the thong-clad cutie has been waving the palm fronds too vigorously...
Paul
You guys are just jealous, both of my entourage of beautiful girls in thong bikinis and of my incredible secret modeling skills. My overwhelmingly superior scale replicas are so utterly superb that modesty prevents me from sharing them. -- Russ
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 19, 2010, 01:33:32 PM
Quote from: finescalerr on January 19, 2010, 01:04:03 AM
Almost as good as I could do. -- Russ
You been drinking & dreaming again??? ;) ;) ;D
MR
MR Don't you mean still!!!
Jerry
Quote from: finescalerr on January 20, 2010, 12:59:12 AM
You guys are just jealous, both of my entourage of beautiful girls in thong bikinis and of my incredible secret modeling skills. My overwhelmingly superior scale replicas are so utterly superb that modesty prevents me from sharing them. -- Russ
Modesty is one of your more endearing qualities Russ... ;)
Paul
Thanks guys for your comments.
Ray, the large pipes are part of the spark arrestor system .
Rick, what scale is the MoLoCo loco?
Marty, for the 1/4 inch elbow, what scale are you working in? Maybe you can find some small brass pipe fittings. I have some old Tomalco castings that go down to .016" that would work out to 1/4 inch in 1:16 scale.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here are two photos of the frame on the first model.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4005%2F4292131713_48f4015867_b.jpg&hash=f8ae39b5843d0c59c1cb9bc0ff75e4c085ccc832)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2681%2F4292131649_5ffbae24fd_b.jpg&hash=9263b96ee29565f3e6f032b5786f41057c629b11)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
No not 1/4" in scale, actual 1/4" for a 3/16 tube (actually 7/32")
I think I have it figured out, just need material.
-Marty
Hi Gordon,
The scale is 1:20.3 and it will be brass.
MOLOCO has already produced models of the Falk and the Bear Harbor, beautiful models by the way, in 1:20 but they are gauged 45mm, that's 3 foot in 1:20 scale. They did produce some of the Falk in 1:20 standard (correct gauge) but I guess they weren't a big seller.
Here is a link to the announcement.
http://120pointme.blogspot.com/
Later
Rick Marty
....haven't been here in a little while, only to return to find Gordon has blasted out
another drop-dead-gorgeous piece of work.
I could look at this stuff all day.
Thanks for the inspiration, Gordy.
Gordon is our anchor. While many of us procrastinate between projects, get sidetracked with our jobs, or simply vegetate in front of the computer, Gordon cranks out one masterpiece after another. -- Russ
Quote from: Scratchman on January 21, 2010, 02:26:43 AM
Here are two photos of the frame on the first model.
So cool...real 'Modeling Porn'.
MR
"....and of my incredible secret modeling skills."
So incredibly secret, nobody knows about them.
John
Oh, you noticed? That's the awesome beauty of my "stealth modeling"! -- Russ
Hear are two photos of the first loco, now #62.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4011%2F4316805574_bc78b48882_b.jpg&hash=7fdb4aaddffa58d6849f07a863199785acb9432c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2689%2F4316071789_c13005116c_b.jpg&hash=82990963207e3dd0d087fee21a294434d006be7a)
Gordon Birrell .... Moving on to something new.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
OH - MY - GOD! -- Russ
What he said, only louder and with an expletive.
-Marty
Holy moly! You've outdone yourself, Gordon!
Gordon,
From the first model ( the shay) I saw built by you till this one, it has been. all these years, a wonderful experience to see what you achieve with simple means. It has been, and still is, inspirational.
thank you
Jacq
This first photo is showing the two locos together. The roofs have not been glued on yet so they are not sitting right.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4003%2F4320444882_a3020638c8_b.jpg&hash=ecfff342d914e9e9c49400a44559e69605410fc0)
This photo I backed up to show my setup. I use two (40 x 32 inches) sheets of mat board for the back drop. One sheet is probably enough for the smaller scales. I will buy a gray color with a white back side and use the back side. This will let me have a gray side for some shots where I need some contrast. For the lighting all I do is wait till the setup location is in total shade. I don't know too much about the camera but what I did on these shots is turn off the flash and set the white balance before each shot. I used the manual setting, setting the aperture value to a high number. I will shoot the same shot in two or three different shutter speeds to give me a selection to choose from. The two photos at the top of this page were taken in my west-facing garage with the garage door open. This set up is still in the shade but the light is only coming in from one direction so I could only get a good shot of the side that is facing the light. If your taking photos for a article try to use the white backdrop as much as possible I for one like seeing the subject on a clean backdrop not your work bench. If you are taking a photo of a loco or a piece of rolling stock using a white back drop don't include the track the track will distract from the model. There are probably other good way to do this but they are probably not this simple.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2703%2F4320445184_b8a556deb5_b.jpg&hash=a4c6d3715f3916cd799f1682439a8240464d9c2d)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Guys, Gordon has not only provided a clinic here on modeling but also one on photography. If you didn't know how to take photos of your models, the lower image is your answer and Gordon's description pretty much summarizes how to do it. (ALWAYS USE A TRIPOD!) If you need more help, contact me.
I will be waiting for your photos and articles.
Russ
Gordon,
Just unbelievable!!! It just doesn't get any better than this.
Jerry
Thanks guys for your comments. This photo I call six stacks It shows the six modeling projects I built in 2009. This is a lot more fun than working.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm5.static.flickr.com%2F4027%2F4316920727_641c59433c_b.jpg&hash=aa28d7728a983238947c098866471d1b74854fc2)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Looks like 2009 was a "good" year ... excellent modelling! Hope 2010 will be even more productive and we can all share.
Can I ask why you build in 1/16th?
Oh and thanks for the photo tips, very useful
Quote from: finescalerr on February 01, 2010, 01:07:58 AM
Guys, Gordon has not only provided a clinic here on modeling but also one on photography. If you didn't know how to take photos of your models, the lower image is your answer and Gordon's description pretty much summarizes how to do it. (ALWAYS USE A TRIPOD!) If you need more help, contact me.
I will be waiting for your photos and articles.
Russ
Do you also recommend using a remote trigger so you don't jar the camera? Pat
Gordon, its great to see your entire 2009 collection all together. If I could ask for a quick favor could you post a shot with an item in it for size reference? I really don't know how big your locos are. Thanks for sharing your great work with us. One more quick question, on the loco with the stack that has two smaller stacks? coming off the sides, what are these for? Pat
Gordon I also work in 1:24 scale but I prefer 1:16 scale for most of my modeling. There are 12-1/16" in 3/4 " so each 1/16 = one inch. Say I need a 2x4 board, this would be 1/8" x 1/4", a very even number. Say I need a 2x4 board in 1:20 scale, well that's not as easy. 12 scale inches = 5/8", 6 scale inches = 5/16", 3 scale inches = 5/32", divide that by 3 to get 1 scale inch. I don't even know how to do that. These are not very even numbers. Basswood, styrene, tubing and even the quad paper I use all comes in these even numbers. I'm not tied to any railroad scale so why not use the easier scale.
Pat, if this will help, the bases for the out houses are 10" by 10". The pipes on the stacks are part of the spark arrester system.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Pat, if your camera has a 3 or 5 second delay feature (and most do, for taking self-portraits and group shots), that's every bit as good as a cable release. My cable release didn't fit my current camera but, before I bought a new release for $50 or $100, I realized the camera has a 3 second delay ... and it works perfectly for long exposure shots.
Gordon, your stuff always blows me away. It's just so elegant!
Russ
Absolutely beautiful.....seeing them all together really drives home that point.
MR
That's a great body of work, Gordon.
It's nice to see it all in one photo.
Wonderful work for the year. Models and dioramas, it shows your wonderful versatility!
Gordon! Great job, as always, I feel privileged to have seen your models and your workshop in person, they and you are truly amazing, but what most people don't know about you is what a wonderful and insightful person you are!!!!!!
I hope you can retire soon, and work on models full time, we all will be in for a treat when that happens. I hope to see you soon I will be back in Provo this spring, and I won't miss stopping by to see you, thanks for sharing your work with us and without you knowing it, that you, are a great inspiration to all that follow this forum.
Gil
Gordon,
I just caught back up on this thread. Fantastic!
Six projects like that in 1 year, WOW, when do you find time for anything else ;D.
Thanks for sharing your great work.
Rick
Thanks guys for your comments. Gil I will be looking forward to seeing you in the spring.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Truly outstanding Gordon. Seeing all six of your 2009 models together in one shot is inspiring and a privilege.
Paul
No casual attaboys here. This is true and excellent scracthbuilding. A pleasure to see, and your photos aint' half bad either!