This will be my first Construction Thread here on the Forum. Hope you'll enjoy it.
It's a freelance, 1/2"-scale lumber buggy based roughly on this 1/48th-scale Mackenzie
piece, bought so I could enlarge the plans to build the 1/2-scale version. Here's the O-scale model:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages115.fotki.com%2Fv686%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FLoad4-vi.jpg&hash=615751e6d4524f9f3c0315329d3c137e063951e2)
In addition, Marc Reusser has sent along some great photo references (Thanks, Marc)
____________________________________________________________________________
My newer, freelance piece is powered by a Chevy six:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1510%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP5180010-vi.jpg&hash=04641a6dec08085126d2ca7e5c907648f754960b)
The platform is diamond plate "welded" to channel stock. I'm using the radiator & axle
from the same '48 Chevy the motor came out of to enhance the story of a home-built lumber
buggy that was made from parts found around the yard.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages46.fotki.com%2Fv1506%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP5240002-vi.jpg&hash=dbbef2a0e8a7b63f09f5619d201c50ec94dbdee5)
The seat was found in the parts box. I think it was from an old sprint car kit and had to be
narrowed by about 3 scale inches. I didn't notice the rear axle cradle wasn't pushed down
onto the pin for the photo....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1514%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP5240001-vi.jpg&hash=fa3060434bc025cfa638435403084e809b603f6b)
Speaking of pins, one thing I learned during my "Model Car Years" was using pins to locate
sub-assemblies. The transmission, axle unit and seat are all positioned with pins, which make
mocking up the model really easy and assists no-end in final assembly.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1500%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP5240004-vi.jpg&hash=0efa5ce65eae540bc222b6a5286d1a3996d92fe6)
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This is where the model stands right now. I've started building the legs.
Nothing fancy, just styrene angle and sheet stock.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1507%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP5290004-vi.jpg&hash=b9aab753a4d17fa3b996652c0e4bef4bb508c9af)
The rivets are .050" Tichy. It would be cheaper to make them but this way they're
uniform and WAY easier to do.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1514%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP5290006-vi.jpg&hash=174eb60a5c62c8b0c9489fdd3b71006740c26f15)
The stuff on top is just sitting in-place for the photo.
I'll be away this Saturday & Sunday but hopefully I'll have more progress shots early next week.
Have a great weekend, everybody..............
Super. Great to see this thread here...really looking forward to your progress.
Marc
Good start, Ken. Everything is crisp, square, and nicely cobbled together. -- Russ
Hi Ken, Welcome! Have admired your work in other places, great to have you here.
These carriers are so cool, can't wait to see the drive system in large scale!!
Randy
This is a great project, Ken. Your modelling is extra, as usual, and your pictures have these extra details that help us understand and sometimes discover better techniques. The engine looks fabulous.
Yeah Ken, thanks for the tips. Now I'm up to my arse in little pieces of wire going airborne off the tweezers trying to pin parts together. ;)
Ken,
fingerlicking. ;D ;D
A pity I model around 1910 - 1920 when these creatures didn't roam the lumberyards yet.
Otherwise I would have asked you to make me one in 1:48. ;D ;D
Jacq
Gerlinger has been making lumber carriers (actually called Straddle Carriers) since 1918.
One of their original models.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gerlingercarrier.com%2Fhistor9.gif&hash=6091ba2ff5a99f97badde609ebdf71b730d4fe25)
There is actually a book called:
"A Pictorial History of the Straddle Carrier" by D. Earl Starner. 1988.
Marc
Heres a pic for Ken.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffpc.dos.state.fl.us%2Freference%2Frc01026.jpg&hash=b8c7fb99beee10ec4fe9bb1fed410dbd0dacb679)
Marc
Ken,
Not your model, but a great pic...and really huge & clear at 3000x2000 resolution
http://www.flickr.com/photos/osucommons/3466776644/sizes/o/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/osucommons/3466776644/sizes/o/)
Marc
Thanks for the array of wonderful pictures, Marc.
GREAT detail references.
Each one of these is uglier than the next!
Marc -
Those tall, leaning stacks of stickered lumber are downright precarious. It would give me the heebie-jeebies to work there. Wonder how they stacked 'em so high?
Mark
(My thoughts, too, Mark. I hope it's an optical illusion)
THE LEGS:
This step might be more clear as the project moves ahead, but here's how the legs are constructed:
The end cap (upper left) is made from styrene sheet and a slice of tubing, which is filled & drilled.
That piece will allow the leg to pivot in the outer sleeve (on the machine's frame) for poseable steering;
The spring (center) is floral wire wrapped around the leg. The ends are filed flat, then it's slipped
over the leg & held in place with two retainers;
The leg's lower guide (right) is made with a slice of tubing and 4 styrene ears;
The steering arm (lower left) is attached to the small styrene rod that is inserted and glued to
the leg, basically forming a pin out the top of the leg....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages46.fotki.com%2Fv1516%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6010001-vi.jpg&hash=07ba93b6a357c5916492ccf2419963e7536ee7c4)
Here's one leg in place. I hope the above description is clear. If not, if may become more obvious as we go along....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1511%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6010004-vi.jpg&hash=218801763be972208df10ed0decdac44dcefdcd6)
Thanks for looking.........
Ken,
Looks nice!...only 3 more to go ;) ;D
Mark,
For stacking they did it by hand, or bigger mills/operations used "lumber stackers" like this one:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/osucommons/3465962907/sizes/l/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/osucommons/3465962907/sizes/l/)
...some (like Brookings Lumber Co's Oregon operation) used locomotive cranes....some built home made rigs like the one attached below (Sean Downing built a beautiful O scale model of this one...maybe if encouraged he'll post some pics of it here in the forum ;))
Marc
Just for interest...in this image you can see two straddle carriers that might have their life cut short....
Taken at the Ewauna LCo. in Oregon.
M
Hope you don't mind Ken...
Here are some other methods of stacking lumber.
Quote
Hope you don't mind Ken...
Heck, no, Marc.
Bring on all you've got. The more info the better. This is great stuff!
(....Got any more shots of that monster Lumber Crane??)
How cool is THIS??
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3489%2F3465962907_d9715c4656_b.jpg&hash=589c10b295a04f096e5026f9802888a0a88c1b34)
I could really get into building some of this lumber yard equipment.
Sawmills and there equipment some fascinating stuff. Ken you could spend a lifetime building all the oddities they used!!
Marc thanks for releasing some of your pictures again for everyone to enjoy.
Jerry
Ken, I wouldn't want to be the guy under that last rig you just posted, man if one of those boards catches some wind and flies,OUCH. Pat
I can only imagine what OSHA would think of a rig like that... :o Interesting project Ken and well executed. Thanks for posting the pics, looking forward to see it come together.
Paul
Here's the latest chapter:
"How To Make Wheels For the Lumber Buggy the Hard Way"
I wanted spoked wheels that looked something like this:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages46.fotki.com%2Fv1518%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2Flumber01-vi.jpg&hash=10bd6e724a3145188d60bbdf9448fb7a63ab3b9e)
I had some left-over 1/24th-scale Mack tires and decided to make the wheels with
this method. No doubt there was an easier way, but I sort of made this up as I went along....
First, I scribed the inner diameter of the tire onto .030" sheet styrene.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1500%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6070010-vi.jpg&hash=956fc42dbadada3813184ac60bc6cff6c45ecbcc)
....then cut it out close to the line with curved scissors:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages46.fotki.com%2Fv1517%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6070001-vi.jpg&hash=69b0e31a80013cc96a4116ce13d3589c58a016b5).
I cleaned up the circle and achieved the exact ID of the tire by using a Dremel and a file...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages46.fotki.com%2Fv1518%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6070003-vi.jpg&hash=322b0a4880c7855bd742dbcddc46cdcd68cf57a7)
An inner line was cut out with a sharp blade, creating a thin ring. The inner edge was
cleaned up with sandpaper taped to a big dowel.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1521%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6070005-vi.jpg&hash=f4f55bfd951e251cdb7c7f4e235f21a167b86e09)
To make the actual rim, I placed the ring and tire flat on the workbench and glued a piece of
.020" strip stock around the edge, against the inner edge of the tire, like this.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1521%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6070006-vi.jpg&hash=c10dd034a761b98fd021cddd0c51b0789edf61a2)
There probably should've been another photo or two before this one, but I got involved
with the building process and didn't stop to take pictures. I added another strip-stock ring
for the spokes to sit on and made a circle template on which the outer rim and hub (from the
same '48 Chevy the motor came from) are attached with 2-sided tape, then measured, cut &
glued on the styrene spokes.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1512%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6070007-vi.jpg&hash=548f7b9bf145bc1b503f8ca82970be18e7309f28)
Here's the finished wheel, sprayed first with automotive primer and then Rustoleum
"American Accents" Terra Cotta for a fine texture that will give the paint and weathering
something to hold onto......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1514%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6070009-vi.jpg&hash=e42c9aefcb28643ccefa218969f7b1199dbe527a)
Disclaimer:
This wheel isn't perfect, has no known prototype and was made up as I went along,
which is the best part of freelancing.
More to come.................
That's the kind of "clinic" we need on this forum. Thanks, and excellent work, Ken! -- Russ
Hello Ken,
That's right... school me my friend... ;D
Excelent....thats the stuff I like...
when there's will to do...there's a found way to do it...
Mike
While waiting for some Grandt Line gears, it was time to think about the front end of the Lumber Carrier.
There were no suitable grill shells in the model car parts box, so I decided to make one using
the "Heated-Plastic-Pulled-Down-Over-A-Buck" technique. I think airplane guys do this alot to make canopies.
First, I measured roughly what I needed aand sanded a piece of pine into a buck.
This is why I build freelanced models....no precise prototype dimensions to fuss over.
Other supplies include .030" styrene sheet and a mini-torch to heat the plastic.
A heat-gun would probably work better because you're not using an open flame:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1530%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6210001-vi.jpg&hash=cba3ab031b6515fdc7b2cf7636ae5133faa393a7)
Forming the grill involved heating the plastic slowly & evenly until it was soft, then
pulling it over the buck. To get the whole grill I had to pull both "down" and "back":
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages34.fotki.com%2Fv1076%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6210003-vi.jpg&hash=3c36b9509cf5c510811ba7d756a2a5886ccbfb3a)
Once the plastic cooled it was easily pulled off the buck, cut, trimmed & sanded:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages45.fotki.com%2Fv1429%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6210004-vi.jpg&hash=1abbdbfbf54f10152f8b5da4964cacd19299b86d)
Here's the final shape, which still needs detail work. There's some wasted plastic using this
method, but it's pretty easy to do and you sure don't need a lot of fancy equipment.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1509%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6210005-vi.jpg&hash=be201564fbcd3cd54e7bc01deb8ef4ad99ac4dc3)
FYI: not all of them turned out. This first one was heated too quickly and too unevenly,
which resulted in this mess. The key is to slowly and thoroughly heat the plastic sheet.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages34.fotki.com%2Fv1076%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP6210007-vi.jpg&hash=6f1b14f87a153d116214c1c83f4737d94d33d18b)
The other two I pulled worked out fine and were used in the above "How-To".
As always, Ken, your modeling is simply astounding - as is your ability to creatively solve problems and design your own details and parts.
Here are a couple of photos of 'stacks' to go with the ones Marc posted earlier. They're not as impressive as the ones in Marc's photos....
Both of these were shot in the Missouri Ozarks, c. 1928. The second photo shows hickory ax handles.
Ken, again thanks for sharing your clever ideas. The way you made this piece is impressive, and the possibility to use this technique to make other models is a great feature of this post. The wheel making + the grill making make this page a must read!
Ken,
impressive.
It is also possible to put the sheet styrene in hot water till it is soft.
Jacq
Ken, while your technique may not be new, it is the first time I have seen photos of the process. You even showed how it may take a few tries to get what you need. The presentation is about as perfect as it can get.
A less experienced modeler can see how even a veteran sometimes has to make a few attempts before getting a satisfactory result. That alone may reduce the intimidation factor of model building. (I remember throwing out an entire water tank base some years ago.)
The entire "mini-clinic" was helpful to me even though I have been modeling and writing about modeling for my whole life. Thank you.
Russ
Hey Guy's,
Wow.... did I just learn some cool techniuqe or what .... :o
Like the man (Russ) said supurb! documentation..
"wisdom gained without the pain"
Thank you very much Ken,
Mike
Nicely done Ken.
Did you cut the radiator opening in before removing the buck (to retain backing stability)?
Marc
Ken
Great job, thanks for sharing how that is done.
Jerry
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 22, 2009, 12:26:34 AM
Did you cut the radiator opening in before removing the buck (to retain backing stability)?
.....didn't have to. The .030" styrene retained most of its thickness after "The Stretch"
and was easily cut and sanded after the grill was cut down to size. Thinner stock may
have been a problem, but this one worked out pretty well.
Thanks, Marc, and thanks to all for the favorable comments. Glad you're enjoying the How-To's
Ken, this is a great thread! I like your creative modeling techniques.
BTW, which kit did that engine come from? I could sure use one (or more!) of those.
Thanks, Ray:
The motor is from a "Galaxie Limited" 1948 Chevy. Here's a link:
http://galaxielimited.com/
EDIT: I had the wrong web address. The correct one is now listed above
There are straight-sixes in several other 1/25th-scale model car kits out there, but this is one of the best.
While I'm here, here's the latest update.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages44.fotki.com%2Fv1535%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7040001-vi.jpg&hash=e0d64f421452dd67ba1f103f9aebd07c5062c0d3)
The hood was formed from a piece of thin aluminum flashing. I made a buck to shape it over, but the
aluminum would spring back when it was pressed over the buck....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1530%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7040006-vi.jpg&hash=bbf7b2cbc798ed880ed05eb3624a15d066a4f33e)
I could have hammered it into shape on the buck but then I would've had to fill & file the
surface to get it smooth again (too much work). Since this was such a simple shape, I ended
up just rolling it with an X-acto handle.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages44.fotki.com%2Fv1535%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7040007-vi.jpg&hash=5ccae3810e2fc959d5198090688ff3d9141b0c9a)
.....and using the buck as a test-fit guide.
Next up: Steering column & linkage. Stay tuned!
May I be the first to compliment you on this stage? This looks like a project worthy of consideration for a Logging Annual. -- Russ
I wondered when you'd get back to us over here.
Thanks for the update, the additional pieces on the hood are a great tip.
-Marty
Ken
Nice real nice!! Good tip on how to do the hood. What's really good is how you show the bad and how you correct it to get to the final stage.
Jerry
Thanks, guys.
Jerry, some builds require more "correction" than others, and I've found that it helps to
show the mistakes so others might be able to avoid them. Plus, it helps eliminate some
of the Intimidation Factor of scratchbuilding. It hardly ever works right the first time (...for me, anyway)
Thanks for the link!
Your lumber buggy is looking great.
You're welcome, Ray.
Those kits should be available at any good hobby shop that has car kits.
Here's a quick update on the working steering (it works from the drag link
on down to the tie rod. The steering box doesn't do anything....):
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1523%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7080012-vi.jpg&hash=58c878c02e9fb27fb7da164f843947334750938f)
All the pins are temporary....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages110.fotki.com%2Fv1538%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7080011-vi.jpg&hash=d5b7151807aa3f72ed748a4330e47659fbddcaa4)
Ken
Nice job. Fine workmanship.
Jerry
Ken,
super...
Did you make your own adjustable gafs ??
Jacq
Thanks, gentlemen.
Jacq: Yes, they're all scratchbuilt. The clevis ends are drilled & bent brass strip soldered
to a .030" brass wire, the end of which is threaded with a mini-die from a set I've had for years.
(Don't tell anyone, but they aren't really adjustable - they just LOOK like they work. The ends pivot
for the "working steering" feature, but the rods are not adjustable. The mini-nuts slip over the threaded
end of the shaft and the shaft & nut are glued into the larger tubing).
Very nice part, Ken. Once again, two photos and a few words show us very well what to do to make a model like this. (And then, it's up to us to do the rest...)
Hi Ken,
really enjoying watching your progress.
Hopefully these are of some use? A much more modern buggy but still operating (just) and with some interesting weathering patterns.
James
...and one more. Taken at Sturgeons Mill last year. Sorry the angles aren't better- I was rushing past to see the Mill in operation and really should have taken more time... :-\
Thanks, James.
You can never have too much information about these critters.
I'd love to see one in person sometime.
Ken, I was looking at your creation the other day and trying to figure out how it would steer. Low and behold here is the answer, forgive my lack of mechanical knowledge but how does the the steering wheel move the linkage? Is there a rack and pinion enclosed under the base of it? Your workmanship is just a joy to watch, creative and educational. I have learned quite a few new tricks and ideas just watching this project come together. Thanks Pat
Hi, Pat:
The term "working steering" is somewhat misleading. The actual term should be "poseable steering",
since the non-functional steering box isn't hooked up to anything. The two front wheel units pivot in
unison since they're connected by the "tie rod". The steering box shaft, which rotates freely,is connected
to the short "drag link", which is connected to the front wheels by the steering rod. So, basically, when you
grab the front wheels and turn them, all the levers and arms move but not the steering wheel. Hope that makes sense.
Next up is building the clutch linkage. Since it's all right out in the open, it has to be accurate.
First, I drilled out the bell house and bent a brasschannel for the throw-out arm:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1541%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7110005-vi.jpg&hash=10ccb65ec31ee411f17af2b49bdf1c5f5e262cdb)
The linkage hanging on the steering box unit was a liitle tricky. That little wishbone-looking
bracket is where that end of the clutch likage mounts to the engine block
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv405%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7110003-vi.jpg&hash=979743009879f40930eb1f013fbcf1626f6ebb86)
Here's what the unit looks like during a test-fit:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1523%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7110004-vi.jpg&hash=c3a8645c137e40598b6623cacc02cc9de25c1729)
With the engine in place, you can hardly see that mounting bracket, but you can see where
the rod between the clutch lever and the throw-out arm will go. That'll be added once everything
is permanently attached.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1527%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7110007-vi.jpg&hash=f835e5576c6bf37c2489dc63c539cdd82d4ca5b2)
Next: Brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
EDIT: Sunday 12:15AM
Well, the brakes didn't get done tonight because I was anxious to see what the frame for the top would look like.
It's .010"x .042" soldered brass flat stock with Tichy NBWs. It's just taped in place on the seat.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1541%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7120001-vi.jpg&hash=1ccae4640994941f7e5c439058bbf5bf7e4744e2)
The clutch pedal is visible in this shot, too. The seat had to be moved back a little for more driver footroom.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1543%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7120003-vi.jpg&hash=c7c0f290a2b9b2c8454a48430f2996662538510d)
Beautiful! I love all the detail in this model. I never heard of the Tichy brand before.
Where do you get flat brass stock in that size? Or did you cut it to size yourself?
Ken
Wow!! That is so awesome beautiful work.
Jerry
"The term "working steering" is somewhat misleading. The actual term should be "poseable steering",
since the non-functional steering box isn't hooked up to anything. The two front wheel units pivot in
unison since they're connected by the "tie rod". The steering box shaft, which rotates freely,is connected
to the short "drag link", which is connected to the front wheels by the steering rod. So, basically, when you
grab the front wheels and turn them, all the levers and arms move but not the steering wheel."
Ken, I'm sorry I was not more clear I was trying to ask how would the real thing work. I understood your great representation of the real thing. The latest additions are just great, when I do similar (and that is a term I use very loosely) I never seem to be able to find good enough pictures to be able to see such fine details. Do you find yourself creating some things from just pure engineering principles? Thanks Pat
I've said it before, Ken, but this is simply amazing. Outstanding modeling!
Quote from: Belg on July 12, 2009, 05:45:01 AM
I was trying to ask how would the real thing work.
Sorry, Pat. I thought you meant the model. From what I could see from photos, the real thing worked
pretty much like the model, with simple steeriing box connected to the front wheels in a way that seems
very similar to autos of the period. No power steering, either...these must have been terrible to turn!
Quote from: Belg on July 12, 2009, 05:45:01 AM
Do you find yourself creating some things from just pure engineering principles?
ALWAYS! Especially when I have no idea how the real thing might have worked. That's why I like to build
freelanced models. I can build them the way I would if I were a shop foreman trying to create a piece of
special equipment in-house..
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on July 11, 2009, 10:40:14 PM
Where do you get flat brass stock in that size? Or did you cut it to size yourself?
Thanks, Ray. The strip stock is some "Deteail Associates" stuff I've for a while. I just found out
that K&S makes a bunch of different strip stock sizes, too.
Mike & Jerry: Thanks for the kind words..........
Thanks Ken that was some great info, Pat
Thanks for another beautiful installment, Ken. It is a pure pleasure to look above your shoulders while you're building this buggy.
As always, gentlemen, I appreciate the comments as this project rolls along.
The weekends allow for some late-night building sessions that can't happen during
the week. Here's one last update before getting back into the real world tomorrow:
After building the frame for the top, I had to decide what the cover would be made out of.
I usually use dried alcohol-impregnated eyeglass Lens Wipes, but wanted to try something
different that would be more sturdy. Long story short, I had some wine bottle foil scraps,
which are a little thinner than Verlinden lead foil, so I gave that a try...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1530%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7120005-vi.jpg&hash=08128ee4c2946c71ffef68ecef8041a851422fa3)
I glued a piece across the top braces, then bent, trimmed, glued and trimmed again until
it was all in the right place. The back piece (with a window cut out) was glued on next....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1523%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7120007-vi.jpg&hash=e846daf12ee544bb30e632afb590e663ee37582c)
It, too, was glued, cut and trimmed to shape, but it turned out to be a little too short for
the back of the seat, so I had to glue another piece to the bottom. The extra piece will
be easy to justify in the story line....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1530%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7120008-vi.jpg&hash=a0dba90f899f40970344f31f61718eb05c5e37e8)
The wine bottle foil has a nice "weight" to it. Not to thin; not to heavy. When everything
gets painted and is ready for final assembly, I can just shape the back flap to fit against the
back of the seat. Looking at the pictures now, I think I'll laminate some tissue paper to
the top for a touch of texture..........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1523%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP7120010-vi.jpg&hash=b59358d41025ce3c49e6f8376285ddab642477b2)
That's it for now! Time the end the weekend.......
It is absolutely cute, Ken. And someone who collects wine bottle foils cannot be a bad man. :)
Love your approach to the sun shade and I think your idea about the tissue paper will really make it look like a canvas top. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
Very interesting... the foil should make it quite sturdy. Is that aluminum?
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on July 14, 2009, 08:13:02 PM
Very interesting... the foil should make it quite sturdy. Is that aluminum?
It DOES make the unit more sturdy, Ray. The material doesn't have that "crisp"
aluminum feel - it's more like Verlinden lead foil, but thinner and easier to shape.
I'll have to start drinking more wine from bottle with corks. Screw caps won't work.
Ken
Looking good. I always knew there was a reason they put foil on those bottles. I hope the wine was as good as the job your doing here.
Jerry
Hello Ken'
That was a really clever Idea...
It only suites the patern of fine craftsmanship you have displayed this entire thread..
Simply Supurb!
I'm still watching this one.. 8)
Mike
UPDATE:
Here are a few of the details completed over the past few weeks:
Hydraulic oil tank & gas tank.........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1551%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8010003-vi.jpg&hash=55276641e155fb334cc2169800d27206e65321f5)
Valve bank for hydraulic cylinders......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1557%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8010009-vi.jpg&hash=4e2c240a10e6a8f4336c6c5e2a7960e1168cf62b)
Shifter & linkage and a hydraulic pump (mounted under the generator).........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1550%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8010006-vi.jpg&hash=9de685a81ad4bd90c6871628b114f31c9bd8f9c5)
and a dipstick....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1558%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8010007-vi.jpg&hash=9e44175f9d079174c8ae9bbc815304bf782bbd65)
Oops - looks like we're a quart low:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1551%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8010008-vi.jpg&hash=20ccd3520dc080e6665196f918cc9ef64081a8bc)
Plus, the top's been painted and most everything has been hit with the first coat of primer......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1558%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8010011-vi.jpg&hash=1aafab2978c96adffc60f6758afb603fd218c9d2)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1550%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8010014-vi.jpg&hash=9cad0f77a222867232b85ff7ee436fd293f9ed7e)
None of the stuff (except the firewall) is glued to the deck yet.
That'll come after most of the painting is finished
Thanks for looking.................
This model is going to be something special. I really enjoy watching it come together.
Apparently the usual construction materials are no longer a challenge for you. Perhaps you should consider building the next project from potatoes or tritium. -- Russ
I just don't know what to say Ken,
I am still trying to figure it out. (I dont even know what or where to start in choosing a subject to model. I work on my stone carving alot and I have gotten pretty good at it; but it is not satisfying my desires for modeling .. I am drawn in so many different directions here in this forum.)
And that lumber buggy is truly an amazing creation.
Mike
looking goooooood!
-Marty
Hi Ken,
Let me say first, simply, outstanding work!!!! I love the subject, I admire your workmanship, and appreciate the time involved to document it as you go along.
I have a few questions and comments that came to me as I read the thread this evening.
Half inch scale, why? is this a scale you normally or traditionally model in? Do you also model trains in this scale? For sure there is a good stock pile of parts out there for scratching and I envy that.
I really agree with your comments about using locating pins. They are a great help in sub assembly mounting and in final assembly, as you said.
The buggy top is excellent, that takes a lot of patience.
They made a very similar top for the Cat 60's but I opted out when it came to the models, figured they wouldn't hold up in the woods anyway. I gotta say that the oil level on the removable dipstick is just plain, over the top, But I love it. That's the kind of thing that puts frosting on the cake. Just great.
Straddle carrier's were the mainstay of the mill yards back in the 40's-50's, at least in Humboldt County they were. I can remember them running up and down city streets and county roads delivering loads to other yards and shipping points. I'm sure they weren't licensed for the roads but
the lumber industry was the dominant force in that time and I think they did pretty much as they wanted.
Here is a picture of a carrier and some lumber stackers that I found in a junk shop a few years ago. It is at the Cobb-Mitchell Co. in Valsetz, OR. Sorry about the poor quality of the scan but the original is 11 X 14 and doesn't fit the scanner to well.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F1stclass.mylargescale.com%2Fr.w.marty%2Fstacker0001.jpg&hash=e617d071fbd2f726424e5bc5e7942d12123e33f1)
Thanks for sharing your work.
Rick Marty
Thanks for all the comments, gentlemen.
Russ: I'm looking into a source for Upsidasium for my next project.
Marty: After many years doing HO trains, I got pretty heavily involved in 1/24th sale model cars,
which I still build. The large size lends itself nicely to detailing. When I got back into model railroading,
the stuff being done in 1/2" scale really knocked me out. Since I had many of the required parts on
hand for this project (motor, trans, tires, seat, etc.), doing the Lumber Buggy in 1/2" scale seemed only right.
PS: Thanks for the great photo. Looks like I could've used Mack wheels afterall.
Really looking good, Ken! I like the primer stage when it all comes together.
Russ, all the Tritium was eaten by the Tribbles, remember?
Chuck, go stand in the corner. And no peeking! -- Russ
Ken as Russ said, this is going to be something special. I've been away from home the last few weeks and am just getting caught up with your latest photo updates. The realism of the engine and transmission just blew me away when I saw the photos a couple of minutes ago. :o Simply excellent!
Awesome! The dipstick is a really nice touch!
Time to bite the bullet and start painting the components that are done so far....
Chuck's techniques are top notch (...understatement...) so I tried the "hairspray
base coat" method - with disasterous results. I guess that's why "Chuck" is "Chuck".
Playing on that theme, though, I tried this next:
After spraying the pieces with Plastikote T-235 sandable automotive primer, I dusted
on a coat of Rustoleum "Terra Cotta" to give the surface a fine texture. That was
followed by a rough, stipled application of Jo Sonja "Brown Earth" acrylic paint........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1551%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8070004-vi.jpg&hash=4e303a04bcf10a86d88e35cabf1d875eb30aee35)
When that dried, I decided to play with Crackle Medium. I applied a coat of "Folk Art"
medium from the craft store; let it dry; then brushed on a moderately thinned coat of Jo Sonja
"Turners Yellow". It has to go on with one stroke or you start to pull off the water-based
crackle layer. It's supposed to crackle as it dries, but there are so many variables that the results
as really inconsistent, depending on the thickness of the paint and the crackle layer, drying
time of the base coat, etc. It's almost impossible to get consistent results. Plus, with the
textured sub-base, the "crackle" (if any) isn't all that obvious......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1551%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8070008-vi.jpg&hash=16ace61405611db4ed1ad0437e3662e10f1856c8)
However, between the Terra Cotta and the (minimal) crackle, there IS a little texture.
The next step, per Chuck's method, is the pick off the top layer to expose the rust base coat.
Here, I brushed on a quick coat of clear water to loosen the surface, then scraped a stiff brush
bristles-first across the surface to pick off the paint in spots. If you look closely at some of the
spokes, you can see some of the "rust bumps" created by the Terra Cotta layer.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1551%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8070009-vi.jpg&hash=e8c2817fce891f010ea3b1d42a86045dc933b267)
Here are the results so far. Still a long way to go, and nowhere near the finesse and realism
of Chuck's results, but the "picking-off-with-a-stiff-brush" idea has potential.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1544%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8080012-vi.jpg&hash=819f80c3166d6ac81983225b88dc935f5814cda2)
Thanks for all the inspiration, Chuck. Hope you Doan't mind the rest of us stealing your ideas.
The results are excellent so far. -- Russ
Thanks, Russ....but I wasn't really happy with these results...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1544%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8080012-vi.jpg&hash=819f80c3166d6ac81983225b88dc935f5814cda2)
.....so I decided to continue on with the hydraulic oil tank using a technique I was more familiar with:
I brushed some Flo-quil Flat on a few of the more heavily rusted areas and, while those spots
were still wet, sprinkled on some drafting Eraser Powder which has been on the shelf for years.
(Can you still GET eraser powder anywhere?)...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1553%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8090002-vi.jpg&hash=0af1aa662397c926790d578dfb9a299ee1369601)
When it dried, I blew off the excess with a can of compressed air, leaving a heavy texture on the rusted areas...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1548%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8090004-vi.jpg&hash=4288b842f7d56204313aa8a7a419e40b001b2dc2)
The dried white powder was colored with washes of artists' oil paint and pastels.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1553%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8090007-vi.jpg&hash=fefb43c2eca983278662e7598ae490d969c35dde)
This is a little closer to where I want to be with the weathering......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1547%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8090008-vi.jpg&hash=5d5c09156541a559cae1c1efc352aea5e8f7df80)
The firewall/dashboard was done with the (Non)-Crackle paint. No eraser powder yet,
but it might not need it. I'll see how it looks against the other stuff.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1555%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8090006-vi.jpg&hash=aa58f6d374c2367f1c13d0b61ce10c2b82f89bdc)
Ken, you have to be one of the most inventive modelers I've ever met! (It would never have occurred to me to use eraser powder as a basis for textured rust!) And your results are always stunning.
Ken, after you are done with the eraser powder, do you seal it again after painting? I was curious to see if any of it rubbed off in handling while working on it. Thanks Sean
Ken,
will the final result show a derelict straddle car or one still in use ?
If it is a machine still in use, I think the shown corrosion on the tank is overdone. If it is a machine sitting already for years in a junk yard in my opinion it is still too much. Normally the inside is preserved by the oil and the outside by the remaining original paint. The corrosion shown lookes like untreated metal in a corrosion prone area.
Jacq
I think I once read about somebody using baking powder or baking soda where you used eraser powder, Ken. Does anyone happen to know whether that's a valid technique? -- Russ
I have used baking powder, works okay but I am a spaz and find it hard to control.....
Weathering powders seem to work better for me.
-Mj
Ken,
Why not just use acrylics over solvent based paint and use the stiff brush and some 70% alcohol to lift/wear/chip the paint?
(for the failed paint, not the texture)
-Mj
Sean: I didn't have to seal the powder after the Dullcote holding it in place dried. It seems pretty resilient,
but a dusting of Dullcote over the whole thing wouldn't hurt.
Jacq: Points well taken. I'm still playing with the finish and would like it to look like "a heavily
weathered piece that's still in use". I might tone it down with pastels or maybe a thin wash of color.
You're right - now it looks like mostly like untreated metal that's very corroded. Not a BAD thing, but
not exactly what I'm looking for.
Russ: Baking soda/powder would definitley work. Actually, any gritty powder would do the trick.
I'd like to experiment with the 320-grit aluminum oxide powder from my air eraser, too.
MJ: Never tried that, but in theory it sounds like it would work. The crackle medium & hairspray appear to
give the paint some thickness, which makes the edges look good when it's peeled.
Whoa! Grit from my air eraser for texture. Great idea, got to play with that.
John
Ken,
Thanks I will have to give that a try. I have included a photo of a lumber stacker I built based upon one of Marc's photos from the Wagner Lumber Co. thought you might get a kick out of it. Sean
For what my two cents are worth, I agree with Jacq, about the amount of corrosion.....I really hate to see such beautiful construction/work go down this path.
I personally would recommend less to minimal texture (otherwise it sort of looks like one of those abandoned Sherman tanks sitting in the surf of some Pacific island).....these metal pieces were not cast that rough, nor would they oxidize like that.....and for the chipping I would recommend another attempt at the hairspray technique (am curious how you approached it that gave you bad results)....or try the hairspray in combination with the salt technique. For small positive and negative detail chips I recommend painting them on with a Vallejo acrylic and an 0/10 to 0/18 brush.
...regardless.....beautiful work, and I am still really enjoying this thread. Thanks.
Marc
Quote from: SDwn on August 11, 2009, 11:51:50 PM
I have included a photo of a lumber stacker I built based upon one of Marc's photos from the Wagner Lumber Co. thought you might get a kick out of it. Sean
Oh, yeah!!!! That's a real beauty, Sean. Unique pieces like that have a great "WOW" factor.
Thanks for the input, Marc. I've still got a lot of playing around to do with the finish, which is definitely my weak point
when it comes to large metal surfaces. I'll take a few more pics as I go along and post them for a critique.
Ken
Just getting caught up with you again. Me I think the rust is just to much. And like Marc said why hide such beautiful construction/workmanship.
Overall either way I rate it outstanding and what a great thread you have going here.
Jerry
Behind-the-Scenes work has been going on for the past few days,
like getting a better handle on the "over-rusted tank" problem and
preliminary painting and weathering before beginning final assembly.
Here's how the tank turned out after reevaluating the finish:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1555%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8150001-vi.jpg&hash=00c1786473d6966beefa66ef0221326562f635c2)
I think it does look better than the earlier version:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1553%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8090007-vi.jpg&hash=fefb43c2eca983278662e7598ae490d969c35dde)
Here's a quick layout of most of the parts, some more painted than others at this point:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1546%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8150002a1-vi.jpg&hash=4a3a4d63409c6a86e284627dd27787cdf7b3e85d)
More weathering will be done when the other pieces go on, but here's the basic color.
Can't miss this in the lumber yard:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages49.fotki.com%2Fv1556%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8150002a2-vi.jpg&hash=b7b760fd39062738f601e84de3b6f7ef6bd8d4a3)
and here's a mock-up of the deck:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1552%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8150002a5-vi.jpg&hash=288410dde64ef234dbc46c038799bcd74ec846b0)
After that picture was taken, I permanently attached the motor and the rear so I can add
the rest of the wiring to the firewall and engine. We're getting there, slow but sure.
Ken, looking good. I like the way you modifie the small sprockets.
Sean, Nice job on the lumber stacker.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Beautiful. I like the color(s).
Between you, Gordon, Sean, and Jacq, the threads here have absolutely wonderful styrene scratchwork to see and learn from. (Chuck doesn't count/isn't included, as he's a freak of nature)
Marc
Marc has been talkin to my ex again ;D (you had to see that coming)
KEn, looking good!
Since the last post, I added a filter to the hydraulic oil line and got the tank in place,
then installed the four cylinders that lift the lumber rack under the buggy. The fittings
on all the lines are "Detail Master" model car parts.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1560%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8230002-vi.jpg&hash=fc3d86c297d6d68e3fdf1cc5f2befbbd2b3de975)
Also mounted the hydraulic control box beside the transmission......
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1573%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8230008-vi.jpg&hash=8ec452dce9682e8440c612b053e89f674d90e4f4)
But the MOST fun part was plumbing the hydraulics under the deck...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv1561%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8230004-vi.jpg&hash=f24a848d00e1174177e72112dc77474ffc0f9426)
It's "sort of" prototypical, with a good deal of artistic license in the design.
Here's a close-up of one of the rams....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages50.fotki.com%2Fv1571%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F4044335%2FP8230007-vi.jpg&hash=8e2661bc4e95a7a953f1c2d9d3f9722705137daf)
...more to come....
very gooooood.................... You leave the oil tank as it is ?
Jacq
Quote from: jacq01 on August 24, 2009, 09:00:12 AM
You leave the oil tank as it is ?
Jacq
...It's been refinished since the first rusty overdose, Jacq (see Pg. 5 of this thread).
Have you got any other ideas or thoughts on it? I'm always open to suggestions.
Ho hum.... very good as usual. Sorry, you pushed me to the excitement limit Ken.
The hydraulics details are perfect. A few leaks?
WOW! What did you use for the hoses?
"Detail Master" (a model car aftermarket company) hose. It comes in several diameters.
The fittings are DM, too. It still needs to be weathered a little and, Chester, there WILL be leaks....
alraight now your hanging around chuck too much... ;D
between your engine, hydraulic hoses and oil tanks and chucks light bulbs, fixtures and vent pipe clamp/fastener.
I would love to buy both you guys a nice dinner... and just ask a ton of questions... heh but then your food would get cold... :P
You guys are just awsome craftsmen...
thanks for the great knowlledge that you both share with all of us others.
a true fan to both your workings
Mike
Ken,
hard to say what it is that disturbs my impression.
It is most probably the finish of the complete vehicle, suggesting hard work, against the rusted/neglected character of the hydraulic tank.
Firstly a tank for such purpose is kept reasonably clean to prevent dirt getting into the system.
Secondly it looks out of place with its corroded texture against the rest. Hydraulic oil also works like a preservative and will prevent rust built up.
It could be a replacement tank, but than it has to clean at least around the filling opening.
The rest is coming along very wel, some leaking points where oil and dust will be built up and a dulling of the hoses to show the enviromental influence, maybe one new to show a repaired hose.............
A pity it is double the size I need. :( :(
Jacq
Jacq:
Thanks for the comments. Some well-placed grease and oil stains & deposits are planned
later on when most everything is in place.
As I look at the pictures above, the side of the hydrualic tank is in more of a shadow than
the rest of the Buggy, which alters it's appearance somewhat. In "real life", the tank isn't
as dark as it looks in the photo. That's certainly not an excuse, though, and I WILL a take
a long, hard look at the tank as the project progresses. As a worst case it can be given a
fresh coat of paint in-place and I can add that little maintenance feature to the model's story line!
Ken
Just an outstanding model. Workmanship that truly can be appreciated by all.
Jerry
Ken,
This is really a wonderful SBS and a great model....every new post/step is just great to read and learn from.
Marc
Hi Ken,
fantastic work! Rusted through yellow paint has long been a favorite. Meant to post some reference pics before now but got diverted along the way. I'm guessing by the quality of your work you have a stack of reference pics already but for those that don't these may be of interest... all of different equipment in varying degrees of decay but I think sum up the effect you are going for to a greater or lesser degree. Just a quick selection of the thousands I've taken over the years ;)...
...and another
one more...
and one more for good luck!
Thanks for the pics, James. "Rusted Yellow" is my favorite color, too.
We're finally entering the home stretch. The wheels are on, the rest of the wiring is done and the grill
shell & steering arms are in place....
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The wiring needs to be toned down a little with some washes & powder....
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The bottom rack is currently being built. The chains & ladder need to be put on, too....
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Then it's on to the "Final Detail" shop for the finishing touches, including a few smudges,
washes and touches of powder. We're getting close.
Ken
What a excellent model!! Outstanding job and thanks for such a great tutorial along the way.
Looking forward to the finishing touches.
Have you given any thought on what your next project might be??
Jerry
Funny you should ask, Jerry:
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Quote from: Ken Hamilton on September 08, 2009, 06:12:55 AM
Funny you should ask, Jerry:
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1/2" Scale I'm sure. And what an impressive undertaking this will be. Will be looking forward to it.
Jerry
Not a bad lumber carrier, Ken. Of course there's little challenge in modeling with styrene. Try building the next project from tuna. -- Russ
Russ, what else do your cats say to you?
Ken, that is looking really great. Love it when they are coming together like this.
Hey Ken,
That looks just awsome...Great Build!
Looking forward to the lumber ladder? too... ;D
(what is actaully the name of that machine?)
It would make a nice set once completed... ;)
Thanks for the great SBS...
Mike
Quote from: finescalerr on September 08, 2009, 11:51:39 AM
Not a bad lumber carrier, Ken. Of course there's little challenge in modeling with styrene. Try building the next project from tuna. -- Russ
I know Ken could make what a pig shat look good.
Another type of lumber handler eh? Do I see these models being a part of something larger? And how are you fixed for lumber? Give a shout if you want me to start up the mill.
Wow....between tuna and pig-poop, I've got all sorts of new building materials to work with.
Chester, I might just take you up on that offer once I start building the stacks of lumber
needed for that new lumber handler. I'm thinking of a scene where a load of wood on the
Buggy is being unloaded onto the lumber stacker. It would baseically look like the photo
above, except with the Lumber Buggy providing the wood that's being stacked.
To all you guys who know more about lumber operations than I do: Would that arrangement
(bringing wood to the stacker with a Lumber Buggy) be logistically accurate for a lumber mill?
Hey Ken,
Kinda strange that the photo does not show the lumber source. (what is providing the lumber to the stacker... I believe your answer lies there)
Mike
Jerry,
Quote1/2" Scale I'm sure. And what an impressive undertaking this will be. Will be looking forward to it
I wonder or Ken has enough headroom in his workshop to build such a stacker in 1/2" scale. ;) ;)
Ken,
this project is approaching it's end, it has been a treat following it. The stradler turned out superb.
The tanks colour doesnt appears out of place on the last photo's, even when it is barely visible.
I was thinking of offering my help with building a fitting mill, but Chester was ahead of me, so I'll leave this to him ;D ;D
Jacq
Thanks for all the comments.
You guys may have seen this (...I don't recall if I stumbled on the link or if someone referred it...)
but at 8:40-minutes into the film there's a brief segment of a stacker in action. A little further along
there's a quick shot of an operating straddle carrier, too. Actually, the whole film is good.
Check it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcEto_Q8MlY
Hey Ken,
That video was pretty cool..
Mike
Hi Ken,
As I said before your model of the Straddle Carrier is superb, beautiful and very realistic.
What is really outstanding about this thread is the vast amount of modeling "how to information" that you have posted so that people like me can benifit from your experience.
QuoteTo all you guys who know more about lumber operations than I do: Would that arrangement
(bringing wood to the stacker with a Lumber Buggy) be logistically accurate for a lumber mill?
I don't claim to know a vast amount about the timber/lumber industry but I think you would be fine with that. If you look back to page five of this post and the picture of the Cobb-Mitchell operation you will see the carrier is right there with the stackers.
Don't forget the stickers, that is what the carriers actually picked up not the lumber. The stickers were heavy duty and used over and over again.
Thanks for the film clip link, a real trip down memory lane. I can't say for positive but I think at least part of that was filmed at the Casper Lumber Company on the Mendocino Coast.
One last item, there is a stacker sitting near a Tee Pee burner up the road in Adin, CA if memory serves it is very similar to the picture you posted.
I have enjoyed your project.
Thanks for posting it.
Rick Marty
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on September 10, 2009, 05:46:53 PMIf you look back to page five of this post and the picture of the Cobb-Mitchell operation you will see the carrier is right there with the stackers.
it.
You know, I was so busy looking at the carrier in that picture I never even noticed the stacker.
Thanks, Ricky. Glad you've enjoyed the project so far.
The Lumber Buggy is so close to being finished I was going to wait until it
was totally completed before posted any more photos - but, the lumber load
turned out so cool I just had to show you guys....
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I had tried pine but didn't care for the grain or color. A piece of some sort of hardwood
found in the garage turned into this on the table saw...
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Still lots of little things to finish up, but this is almost in the bag.
Thanks for looking.
Ken
Thanks for the pictures finished or not its a thing of beauty. What an outstanding job you have done on this. Glad to have you as member of this forum.
Jerry
The perfect touch! That really fills it out. Most excellent Ken!
Magnificent!
Lest they become redundant I reserve my superlatives for photos of the completed model. -- Russ
It's just so very cool!....
M
Done.....
(Except for maybe dulling the tires a little and adding some dirt).
It doesn't look much diifferent from the last update, but the drive chains
are in place and some final details have been completed.
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No antlers, but the boys at the Mill managed to come up with a bowling trophy.....
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More views to come. Thanks for all the encouragement during this project.
Awesome! I love the bowling trophy hood ornament! And the clipboard!
Ken, You have done a fantastic job on both models. I am glad you went with the Serv-O-Link chain and sprockets.The chain scales out to around 4 inches in 1:24 scale so it may be a little oversize but still very feasible It will look good on my 1:16 scale model when I get around to building it. What did you do with the Mack Truck the tires came off of? when you get the stacker finished you will need to built a tall diorama to set them both on. I have also enjoyed your step-by-step on this thread.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
It'll do, Ken. -- Russ
(P.S.: Save all those construction photos for the article!)
This looks better than the best in show in Colorado. Very very well done.
Up to the stacker..........
Jacq
Gordon:
Here's where the Mack went....
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Thanks very much for the tip on installed that chain. It saved a lot of aggrevation. While the chain IS a tad big, it looks better than anything else out there - and I sure wasn't going to scratchbuild it.
Uncle Russ: I'll be getting in touch with you shortly. Thanks for your interest in the project.
Jacq: Thanks very much. How was the convention??
....now I need to get started cutting wood for the Lumber Yard diorama....
Ken,
QuoteJacq: Thanks very much. How was the convention??
I wasn't there, a bit far from Holland......googling for some results to see if it was better than last year, I was flabbergast that an exact copy of the Twin Mills from Brett Gallant was elected. They could have selected the original years ago. A good example of wrongly choosing selective compression.
Jacq
Great build, excellent SBS, and the little details really make it shine.
Looking forward to seeing it in print.
-Marty
Ken
Glad to hear Unc is going to do an articele on this.
It was really and outstanding project and the explantion of how it was done was also outstanding. Will be looking forward to your next project as well.
Jerry
One of the most rewarding aspects of this project has been
the feedback from you guys. Thanks for the inspiration.
Love the clipboard and radiator trophy. NIce to see it come together!
This is a fantastic build, we had one of these parked in the back lot for the longest time at the place I first worked. It belonged to the mill that made redwood window sills and oak door sills. I never actually saw it run but I was told that they used it all the time in the 60's and early 70's.I did not start working there until the late 70's. I saw it in the 90's still parked, as far as I know it's still there?? But I have not been back there in a very long time. Is there any way you can post the scale plan for it? thanks
Gil Flores
Really sweet Ken, love the clipboard and trophy. They're so you.
Ken,
Ran across this on-line at UofW archives...thought it might fit right in with your "lumber mill contraptions" ;);D....this was an electric transfer car at the Snoqualmie Falls Lumber Co. c. 1921
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M
A metal box, on metal wheels, on metal track connected to two high voltage lines.
And you get to wear a metal hard hat just inches from the power lines.
Then pile a bunch of wood on the back.
Hmm, sounds like the makings for a Viking funeral.
-Marty
...how did people come up with this stuff???
Thanks, Marc. That's pretty wild.
Quote from: lab-dad on September 25, 2009, 04:27:10 AM
A metal box, on metal wheels, on metal track connected to two high voltage lines.
And you get to wear a metal hard hat just inches from the power lines.
Then pile a bunch of wood on the back.
Hmm, sounds like the makings for a Viking funeral.
-Marty
Sure does... especially if the rails extended to the log pond...
Paul
Ken,
your Lumber Buggy is really Tip Top, a great piece of modeling and scratchbuilding !
Sincerely!
Lloyd
I promise - this will be the last Lumber Buggy post, but something turned
out so well today I wanted to share it with you guys......
I prefer to take "real time" models photos outside because (a) I'm no good at Photoshop and
(b) there's nothing like the hands-on feel of creating and photographing a model scene in the wild.
The owner of the local lumber yard agreed to let me come in and take a few pictures
of the Lumber Buggy in its natural habitat. So this morning, armed with a sand-coated piece
of plywood, some wood scraps and a "Workmate" stand, I headed for the lumber yard.
Sometimes things just work out well by themselves, and this was one of those days. The scraps
of wood I used to hide the edge of the plywood happened to be pretty similar in color to what was on
the racks, the groundcover color was close and the light was right.
Here's the best shot of the day:
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Ken, that is a great idea. I will have to try it some time. The photo is very convincing.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That shot worked!
John
Sweet. Good shot...looks real.
M
Now you can go to work for the studios! -- Russ
AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!
With shots like that why stop posting?
photoshop - smotoshop
-Marty
Isn't this what they call "the money shot"? OK, where's the money?
That looks like a cover to me Ken (hint, hint to Unc), great stuff.
Great shot Ken... it works!
Paul
Wow, great shot!
Ken, great picture, what more can i say!! Craig