This was an experiment in adapting the "Hairspray Chipping" technique, to better suit my needs, and make it a bit easier to work with.
I am really anal and reticent to build up too may thick coats/layers, as I feel one starts to lose detail and finesse...especially in the smaller scales. I also don't particularly care for clear coats, as I feel one looses some of the depth and diversity in finishes. For this experiment, I wanted to see if I could eliminate some of these issues/steps. I also wanted to see if there was a way to make the removal process slightly easier (as previously stated, I have had some issues with it)
I used the following steps:
Primer Coat: Mr. Surfacer 1000
Base coat/color: Tamia XF-64 Thinned with X-20A (airbrush applied)
Resist layer: I mixed a 50/50 mixture of Gum arabic, and "Tresseme" hairspray. Upon pouring the two together there seemed to be some curdling, but after stirring well, the two seemed to blend/mix fine. This mixture was then thinned approx 50% with distilled water, and applied in a normal coat with the airbrush. (airbrush application will also makes it easier to get into tight small places if one needed to, and apply a smoother more even coat)
Once the resist layer was dry (it does dry with a satin finish) the top color coat was applied.
Color Coat: Tamiya XF-? thinned with X-20A, this was applied in two coats to achieve full coverage.
Removal: I tried something a bit different here...on one half it was initially to see how the resist would work when confronted with an air eraser (shooting baking soda), I wanted to see if the paint would easily flake off. On the other side I used the air eraser to "pit" the entire paint surface...in some areas where I knew I wanted the paint to eventually come off,. I pitted enough to very lightly/barely show some of the Red brown underneath (about as much as if you had done a lighter/thinner color coat)...this was then followed up by simply wetting the area with a brush, waiting about 20 seconds, and then lightly working the surface, intermittently re wetting/dipping the brush in water.....the color layer came off easily..no hard scrubbing...when satisfied with an area, I just dabbed it with a lint free cotton towel, to pick up any residual moisture.
I wasn't trying to get a specific look/finish (Ie winter whitewash)..I really just wanted to see if I could make removal easier for me, and employ less layers in the process.
This side was removed with a short stiff 0/10 brush (this is the side that received more pitting from the air eraser)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FCarCart%2FMR_CarCart_13.jpg&hash=82209ae1f76c572ef12f95cf390999361c531c4b)
This side was removed with a regular 1/4 wide flat brush (this is the side that received light pitting)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FCarCart%2FMR_CarCart_14.jpg&hash=7456cd48c2ac29d440f8aa1647250a2309b5a513)
The Gum Arabic mixed into the hairspray does seem to make the paint easier to remove....long term issues if any will need to be seen.
Marc
Hello Marc,
One thing I can say is they both look great. (I used to be in the autobody biz)
I have seen alot of rusty cars in my past days.
The 0/10 side is very very close to what I have seen on real cars.
Mike