Hope you all are well - it won't do any harm to tinker around a bit with railroading:
PKB-31-Todt-1956-animiert.mp4
B/w picture taken by Reinhard Todt 1956, Wolf Dietrich Groote collection.
The 'Plettenberger Kleinbahn' owned two nearly identic 4-axle boxcars, N° 31 and 32, built in 1913 and 1922. I've chosen the older one for my project, because it had lateral movable buffers with respect to the tight curves of the line and the back then used sytem of buffers and lateral coupling chains, the latter being out of use in the later years.
After some reverse eingineering the first parts for the bogies arrived:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/PKB_GG_31_Drehgestell_gebremst_001_klein.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134029)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/PKB_GG_31_Drehgestell_gebremst_002_klein.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134030)
Bogie pivots are wax plots and cast in brass:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230510_204902_2b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134879)
Frame parts are mostly etched, alongside with a lot of other parts for the body:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230601_113531b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134885)
Inner crossbeams consist of nine parts each:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230616_151816b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134892)
For the rivets I've chosen same approach I've shown here at the Oester bridge (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg61241#msg61241)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230616_135606b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134891)
Some areas aren't accessable after soldering. Pre-rounded pins and spacers from aluminum help soldering those pins with correct protrusion:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230616_110352_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134890)
That's the 'etched parts state' of the frame:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230619_174538b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134897)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230619_174630b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134898)
The other pieces to come are milled and cast brass parts.
Cheers
Volker
Now we know what you've been doing for the past few months. So far, so good. -- Russ
Video doesn't work.
Bernd
Bernd, thanks, now it should be working.
Very Very Nice Stuff - But still no video
Barney
The video won't play with Safari on my Mac - try Chrome and Firefox, it works for me there.
As Frithjof said "works with Chrome". Same for me.
Thanks for fixing it Hydrostat.
Bernd
Barney, download Firefox to your Mac. Some years ago my bank's website balked at Safari. It worked perfectly with Firefox. Firefox also offers other advantages so, since then, I use both. -- Russ
Where can I find how to instructions to prep the parts for etching? I need to learn how to make pieces like yours for a couple of 1:48 scale East Broad Top rail cars and feel etching will be easier then milling them.
Quote from: Lawton Maner on June 23, 2023, 04:28:17 PMWhere can I find how to instructions to prep the parts for etching? I need to learn how to make pieces like yours for a couple of 1:48 scale East Broad Top rail cars and feel etching will be easier then milling them.
This might be a place to start:
http://www.nigellawton009.com/Etching_for_Beginners_Version_5.htm (http://www.nigellawton009.com/Etching_for_Beginners_Version_5.htm)
Bernd
It's hard to do better than: http://ppdltd.com/
They have an artwork guide and they deal with hobbists around the world. Note that the most economical sheet size is approximately 300x300mm. They can do larger or smaller, but can work out more expensive. Their minimums are conservative and I have often gone finer than recommended with success.
Another option would be to collaborate with somebody who is doing this stuff often. I typically get etchings done every 3-6 months and I often have 'spec' sheets containing 1 offs, custom parts etc. You might be constrained by whatever metal I'm using, but I'll also tell you if what you have drawn is likely to work. It depends what area of metal you are after.
This is an interesting project, Volker. I am curious about the further progress. The animation at the beginning of the thread is very illustrative.
Bernhard
Top-notch, as usual!
Some parts for the brake system:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/PKB_GG_31_Drehgestell_gebremst_neu_001.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135035)
The braking traverses shown in green in the drawing are functionally composed of several parts.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230704_182748_2b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135080)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230704_182921_2b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135083)
At the opposite end they have a stop and a 1.6 mm thread. The rods engaging in the brake pad also have such stops.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230705_192731_2b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135091)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230705_181637b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135087)
They were created from 2 mm long tube sections that were bevelled on one side, which I was able to solder to the rods in the desired position with the help of an aluminum gauge.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230705_180127b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135085)
The trusses are inserted into the hangers and secured there with washers and splints. For this purpose, the castings were each given a 0.4 mm hole on both sides.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230704_182846_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135081)
A simple drilling aid with 0.4 and 1.2 mm drill holes arranged at right angles is sufficient.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230703_183407b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135077)
A turnbuckle, which is not available as a finished part, is built into the connecting linkage from the bogie frame to the attachment point at the frame. The functional turnbuckle has a right-hand and a left-hand thread.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230709_141942b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135101)
Since the M 1.6 lefthand thread cutters and drills were too expensive for a one-off use, I bought a working turnbuckle from Knupfer, which isn't prototypical at all, but has the requested threads.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230708_155836b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135094)
I cut off a 2 mm long piece of the "nut" part on both sides and brazed these parts to two 1.2 mm thick brass rods, which were rounded at the ends and half reduced to 1 mm in length. I sawed open the ball head of the left-hand thread rod and brazed the pull rod and then ground off excess material.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230709_131946b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135099)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230709_142025b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135102)
Cheers
Volker
Stunning. -- Russ
Fantastic work. Very good idea for fabricating the turnbuckles.
Really excellent parts, especially the idea for making the turnbuckle.
Bernhard
Hi Volker.
As always great fabrication.
cheers Kim.
Great work
Barney
These turnbuckles are an excellent example of the adaptive conversion of one object into another.
I remember 25 years ago I down graded the turnbuckles on an O Scale passenger car because the builder bragged about the threaded turnbuckles in the write-up but used right hand threads on each end. If the builder had not pointed the error out in the write-up but allowed me to discover it on my own I would have ignored the error.
My go to for hard to find tooling is Victor Machinery: https://www.victornet.com/ Small left-handed taps and dies aren't that expensive, and once in the kit encourage their use. A happy user no connection.
Mind blowing!
Stuart
Holy cow, a working turnbuckle!
Bill, Kim, Barney, Stuart, Ray, thank you!
Quote from: Bernhard on July 11, 2023, 01:10:24 PMReally excellent parts, especially the idea for making the turnbuckle.
Bernhard
Bernhard, I really don't want to gain someone else's laurels: All milled sheet parts are made by Frithjof. I don't even have a mill. So much the more I'm happy with the selfmade turnbuckles - and I'd like to add a clip of making the rivets with a burr cup. I think it's crucial to use a small hand drill to have control of what the burr cup does.
Quote from: Lawton Maner on July 11, 2023, 05:43:14 PMThese turnbuckles are an excellent example of the adaptive conversion of one object into another.
I remember 25 years ago I down graded the turnbuckles on an O Scale passenger car because the builder bragged about the threaded turnbuckles in the write-up but used right hand threads on each end. If the builder had not pointed the error out in the write-up but allowed me to discover it on my own I would have ignored the error.
My go to for hard to find tooling is Victor Machinery: https://www.victornet.com/ Small left-handed taps and dies aren't that expensive, and once in the kit encourage their use. A happy user no connection.
Lawton, usually I'd agree about stocking tools, but in this case it didn't make sense for me since the prefabricated parts saved some work.
Added the slipways for the car body.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230712_132225b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135153)
Socket for the brake system is brazed from three parts.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230712_135505b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135154)
Pedestal frames are milled as the orher parts are, too.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230712_182052b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135156)
The bogie frame has a riveted t-section. They serve as catch, If chain links of the bearing springs break.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230712_191502b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135157)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230718_172035b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135170)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230718_172130b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135171)
Since I'd good experience with drilling the cotter pin bores I decides to habe all the bolts with cotter pins and washers. I modified the boring jig a bit to get 0,4 mm bores into 1,4 mm bolts. An interply (the square material) helps to have the bores at the required position. I prefer to shorten the bolts after drilling.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230714_142152b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135161)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230714_142222b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135162)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230714_143308b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135163)
Using some cutting oil it works well enough to have some 50 brass bolts and some iron bolts as well drilled with one drill bit without twist-off.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230714_161023b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135164)
To me it seems crucial to draw out the drill bit during drilling from time to time to support conveying chips. I know that it may be hard for professional metal workers to watch the video, but it is the best I'm able to achieve with my tools.
Washers are made from 0,2 mm brass sheet; I've shown the principle here (scroll down to the end of the post) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1983.msg53232#msg53232) before.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230717_185900b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135166)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230717_185923b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135167)
That's it - cotter pins are made from 0,3 mm brass wire, which I sanded down to roundabout 0,15 mm remaining:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230718_171927b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135168)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230718_171955b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135169)
Cheers,
Volker
That is just beautiful work Volker. The cotter pins really bring it to life.
Excellent all the way around!
Modeling to that degree of detail and perfection should be illegal. Go stand in the corner! -- Russ
Excellent bit of miniature engineering
Barney
Excellent detailing, I am impressed.
Bernhard
I was in doubt about the brake system; the milled slot from the previous design gave too little way for movement and so I decided to make a new construction following another car from the same manufacturer Both & Tilmann. This has a different kind of bogies, but the brake system might have been similar to the Plettenberg car. Howsoever it is prototypical adjusted now. This time the parts are handmade.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230429_130922_2.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135175)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230722_133529b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135179)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230722_133547b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135180)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230722_133625b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135181)
To achieve identic parts I make symmetric pieces from soldered stock material.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230720_195322b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135177)
Quote from: finescalerr on July 19, 2023, 12:31:26 PMModeling to that degree of detail and perfection should be illegal. Go stand in the corner! -- Russ
Russ, please stop those accolades. This is rather on an average at finescalerr.
Cheers
Volker
I must agree with you. Still, beautiful work. -- Russ
Stunning!
Ray, thank you.
First test fitting of the bogies:
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230728_160348b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135283)
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230728_160359b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135284)
Suspension springs are provisionally printed parts. Journal boxes and goosenecks are wax plots and cast in nickle silver.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230727_132740b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135279)
Due to poor quality there was a lot of rework involved with the castings: According to that 'scheduled' work of reaming bolt holes at the goosenecks and bearings at the journey boxes hardly mattered.
I mark the area at the reamer with an edding to achieve the necessary diameter. For the axle bearings I had to shorten a reamer to get the right diameter for the blind holes.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230727_151908b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135281)
I decided to use cotter pins everywhere instead of imitations since I found out how to make them in a reasonable way.
(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/9694/medium/IMG_20230728_160625b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135286)
Cheers
Volker
Extraordinary. -- Russ
Impressive to say the least!
Stuart
This already looks really good.
Bernhard
This is really something...wow!
A miniature mechanical marvel
Barney