The plans are in the January/February 1991 Gazette The photos shows my 1:24 scale model with the engine not being modeled this truck was built around 15 years ago. I'm going to do a 1:16 scale model now and since Al Armitage went into such great detail on the engine I will be modeling it on this new model. The drive chain is closer to the 1:16 scale model and the wheels will be the most difficult part to model. The more I look at the plans, the more I get excited to get started.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/)
Beautiful and impressive work as always Gordon. Looking forward to the thread/SBS on this.
Marc
Here is the first pics of the 1/16" scale MacDonald: the bed, head board, side boards with the fenders, stake pockets with stakes and the rear axle. The two channels coming off the front of the bed is the rest of the frame and will be the next step along with the front and back wheels. One of the photos is showing the fender blank wrapped around a piece of tube, sitting in hot water. After a few minutes, run it under cold water and remove the rubber bands. Make the blank longer than needed and trim on both ends.
Gordon Birrell
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Here's two photos of the rear wheels these wheels are not very close to the prototype but are as close as I could get them I will talk about them when I get the front wheels made.
Gordon Birrell
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Awesome job Gordon! Very impressive work...
I believe that I will turn over to make seam? ;) :D :D :D
Gordon,
Looking wonderful as always.....I really enjoy seeing these projects of yours come together, and seeing/learning how you go about it making the parts and details.
Marc
Gordon, like Marc I always enjoy seeing your work and now really want to thank you for showing us how you accomplish some of the tasks. I would really love to see even some of the smaller things like the hubcap broken down to see how they are created. Thanks so much Pat
Gordon,
Thanks for the learning process. Can't wait for the next lesson.
Jerry
Gordon, as always, I stand aghast.
Lest you forget, if you can't fashion an assembly yourself, remember you have friends with CAD, others with lasers, and others with milling and/or CNC machinery.
-- Russ
Thank you for sharing another marvelous build Gordon. And the making of the bicycle type fenders is a handy tip.
Thanks guys for your comments. Here are two photos of the front part of the frame with the power take-off to the capstan. The capstan and the four small pulleys are from Ozark Miniatures and the belts are ship modelers rope. Just the rest of the suspension and front wheels, this first section will be done and as soon as the last coats of dull coat has dried for a few days I will add some oil washes.
Gordon Birrell
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Somebody really ought to publish your modeling, Gordon. -- Russ
Russ,
nothing for you ????
you have published over the years a number of those more than outstanding models.
These models do have a quality that is better than required by most musea.
Editing a special of all or most of Gordons models with construction details and tips
must be a very very rewarding task.
Please consider it..
Jacq
Gordon,
Beautiful work!!
Russ you should consider doing books on modeling technique's & tips. You certainly have a hell of a list of people to choose from.
Would be worth thinking about! No one would be able to do it better than you.
Jerry
Jacq, I was kidding about publishing Gordon's model. I have published articles on almost every model he has built in the past few years.
Jerry, maybe you are kidding ME, because (for those who don't already know) the December Modelers' Annual is a book exclusively about modeling tips and techniques. That is why so many articles include step-by-step instructions, usually highlighted by a light colored box or by colored type. Gordon, Chuck Doan, Marty Jones, Marc, and even I (among others) have articles in this December's book.
Russ
Russ,
Is it still possible to order the December Modellers' Annual?
I like to try the techniques I see in the pictures in this forum, so that I can improve my models on my little exhibition layout. And maybe put some pictures here.
Leon
Russ
Just was kidding you, thought maybe all the people that I know, that say there is no book out there on how to do things would take notice when there here.
Jerry
Leon, sorry, but once my printer sends out the books, that's it. I long ago realized the back issue business is unprofitable and got out of it. We have nothing here. A few books may remain in hobby shops; you would have to search for one. Maybe our hobby shop distributor, Kalmbach, might have an idea or even a book lying around the office. Another possibility would be to see whether somebody might photocopy all or part of a book.
Jerry, I was almost certain you were kidding. Even so, go stand in the corner. And no peeking over your shoulder.
Russ
And Jerry make sure you put on that pointy paper hat while your in that corner!! Pat ;D
This finishes up the frame and wheels, and it's nice to have the model to this point. There is another frame, that the rest of the truck sits on. This frame sits above the front frame and is attached to the four springs. I will start the next section with this frame and the differential, along with the four contact points to the four springs.I will still talk a little bit about the wheel construction, later on.
Gordon Birrell
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Way to go, Gordon. -- Russ
This is Master building...whatever you need, you make it!
Outstanding Gordon! :o :o
Franck
The prototype wheels are very complex castings and would be very time consuming, so my wheels for this truck needed to be a little more simple.
The Rim
For these wheels, the main tool I use is a two-inch outside-diameter piece of Plastruct round tubing (TB-200). I will use this as a form for the two .030" strips of styrene as I use hot water to shape it, and hold the shape when gluing.
1- Out of .030 sheet styrene, cut two 7/8 inch wide strips for the rear wheels and two 3/4 inch wide strips for the front wheel. One long enough to go around the tube and one long enough to go around the tube and the first strip. Cut these strips longer than the needed length, these well be cut to the correct size after the strip has been formed.
2- Pull the strips though your thumb and finger to start the curve, and place both strips around the tube and hold in place with rubber bands. Place in a glass bowl and cover with hot water and let set tell water has cooled. Remove from tube and cut to length. Now place the two strips back on the tube and glue together staggering the joint 180 degrees apart, being careful not to glue it to the tube. I use a liquid plastic cement.
The Center Disk
1- Cut a two-inch diameter disk out of .030" styrene. I use a good quality compass with a metal tips on both points. Drill a small hole in the center to help hold the tip in place. You need to go round and round many times from both sides, break it out when you get a good score and sand the disk to size.
2- I start by drawing a six-inch circle with a two-inch circle inside that circle on a piece of paper. I use a protractor to mark the segments on the six inch circle. The front wheels are divided into ten spaces and the rear wheels are divided into nine spaces. Draw the lines from center to the outside of the six-inch circle.
3- Place the styrene disk on the drawing and add the lines for the spokes. draw a one inch circle to both sides of the disk.
4- Add three layers to the out side of the disk.
a. Add a one-inch outside-diameter exchanger ring from Plastruct (RI-32) with .188" x .100" x 1/2" long strips of styrene (cut out the spaces between the spokes on the disk.)
b. On top of the exchanger ring add a one-inch diameter button.
c. And on top of that I used some cone shape parts out of my junk box.
5- On the inside of the disk after enlarging the center hole to 1/8" add one or two 1/4" scale Grandt Line circus wagon wheel (#30 or 31), the one that is one-inch diameter. This will give a good solid hole for the axle.
Place this assembly inside the rim and add a thin slice of the two-inch round tubing one on each side of the disk.
The Hard Rubber Tires
For the hard rubber tires cut a slice 3/4" wide for the rear wheel, and two 5/16" wide for the front wheel out of two-inch ABS pipe. This is inside-diameter and will not fit over the rim, so I cut it in one place and added a short segment to get to the right size.
I have added a photo showing some of the parts.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/)
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Gordon: Another great one. BTW, you didn't send me the links we talked about yet. John
Thanks John, good to see you on this forum. There is a lot of good stuff over here. I sent you a PM over at Railroad Line forum,for the links.
Gordon Birrell
This model was starting to kick my butt, not being able to see what is going on with some items in spots, til I found these pics of a 1922 model A MacDonald 5 ton truck today.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=U&start=1&q=http://rockindownthehighway.blogspot.com/2007/09/rockin-birthday-visit-to-hays-truck.html&usg=AFQjCNFU4rVKBv6JPCmoKsUaKPSq0OTUkg
Gordon Birrell
I can see where the photos might have been rather helpful, Gordon. Even without them your model is really exquisite so far. -- Russ
I've got the upper frame with the engine bottom, transmission and differential in place, and this full assembly mounted on the lower frame. There are still the assemblies that go between the sprockets and the rest of the steering assembly to finish up before moving on to the radiator hood and the rest of the engine detail. The cab is mostly finished and snaps on to the upper frame.
Gordon
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/)
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Gordon, did it ever occur to you that you're an artist masquerading as a model builder? -- Russ
I think Al Armatage would have been well pleased with what you have done with his plans.
Thanks, Russ for your comment.
Chuck, it is hard to imagine all the time and work Al must of spent on the many drawings and other hobby related projects over the years. The quantity and quality of this work has given me many hours of pleasure. I only wished I had gotten my act together in time that he could of seen some of my work using his drawings. I built my 1:16 inch scale Michigan-California shay number two way back in 1972 and never even sent him a photo I believe he would have been pleased with some of the work I have done using his great drawings.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Beutiful work as always.
Marc
I got the rest of the steering assembly finished, along with the radiator, hood cover, and doors. These will come apart to let me finish the engine detail, and this project will be finished.
Gordon Birrell
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WOW!
I get to be the first to say "GREAT JOB!"
Really cool, I still think it needs a little grease here and there, a little too white.
Lube that puppy up a little!
_Marty
Almost as good as I could do, Gordon!!! -- Russ
Very, very nice! And seeing all the in progress shots helps one to appreciate things that aren't even seen. What a wonderful build Gordon. I've been researching a similar truck, the 1926 Coleman.
Here are four photos of the engine, and two with the MacDonald in front of Phil's Garage. I still need to add some oil washes, lettering and some small detail.
Gordon Birrell
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Outstanding work as usual Gordon.
Paul
Superb. -- Russ
A work of art Gordon, congratulations on a magnificent model. I'm in total admiration (have been for some time)
Gordon
Beautiful a real work of art. Once again you've proven you are the master of trucking!!
Jerry
I can only reiterate what has already been said. Beautiful work. Thanks also for the informative SBS.
Marc
Gordon,
with this superb truck finished, is following nothing for you??
http://www.susan-parker.co.uk/susan-byers-industrial-locomotive-project.htm (http://www.susan-parker.co.uk/susan-byers-industrial-locomotive-project.htm)
http://www.gearedsteam.com/byers/engineering_news.htm (http://www.gearedsteam.com/byers/engineering_news.htm)
I hope you have more new items for us to be admired.
Jacq