These are some miscellaneous photos and SBS steps and descriptions, that did not make the cut for the chapter on this build, in the AK "Extreme Weathered Vehicles" book; however I thought they might be of use or interest to someone.
This build utilized the 1/25-scale Monogram kit "'50 Ford Pickup". (says it's for skill level 2, and ages 10 and over.....must be like me not being able to program the DVD, but the 10-year old neighbor kid can). This was my first car kit since I was 16.
This image is was the inspiration for the eventual plywood bed, the tailgate area detail, and the step bumper.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1383855_3464376984148_1790842301_n.jpg)
This image was the inspiration for the design/shape of the tool/utility box.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1383229_3464377024149_407739036_n.jpg)
The box was drawn to scale in 3D (in SketchUp), using the actual styrene thicknesses. (It consists of approximately 30 pieces). Doing this eliminated any guesswork, and trial and error, when it came to building the actual piece.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1395923_3464377064150_2097918153_n.jpg)
I originally was planning to use a set of long PE hinges...but failed miserably at bending them; so the hinges were simulated with rod and strip styrene, and Archer rivet decals were used to simulate the rivets/screws used to attach the hinges to the box
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1380714_3464377344157_592738378_n.jpg)
I thought the ladder/contractors rack would give the truck some interest, (and draw the eye away from any problems ) The rack was also drawn to scale in SketchUp. I had originally planned to solder the rack out of .040 brass...but this was not something I was skilled enough to pull-off, so settled on building it using the same dimension styrene
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1378329_3464377384158_1529372825_n.jpg)
This is a test fit of the tool box, and the shape of the proposed step-bumper. The .040" styrene strip was heat bent over a wood dowel to create the radius. The strip was then thinned to .010" at the exposed ends.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1381872_3464377544162_811073604_n.jpg)
Despite the kit scale being 1/25, I had to resort to 1/87 scale (HO) diamond plate to get it to be properly scaled visually. The diamond plate is from Plastruct. Rivets are .035" from Grandt Line.
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This shows a test fit of the rack.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1376417_3464377944172_72857579_n.jpg)
Lastly some detailing was changed and added at the back of the bed area, as well as drilling out the rolled sheet metal end at the top of the bed sides. (at this point it is still missing the left over tail-gate chains at this location).
For interest, I added a sheet metal patch at the running-board.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1391781_3464377904171_1503137064_n.jpg)
I planned to have the right side door be a salvaged replacement door, so to accentuate this, I also scratch-built a different rear view mirror.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1383657_3464378184178_1615526927_n.jpg)
On most parts that I wanted all the chrome removed, I used oven cleaner to do so; but on parts that I wanted more control, so I could leave areas of chrome, I soaked the parts for 10 mins. in 91% Isopropyl alcohol, and then used a stiff brush and the fiberglass pencil to carefully/selectively remove areas of chrome.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1385707_3464394104576_1919446561_n.jpg)
The remaining chrome was masked using Gum Arabic, applied over the chrome surface with a brush. Care needs to be taken to make sure one covers all parts of the surface with a good coat. (I usually don't use this under a primer coat, as it makes for much harder removal, but in this case I had no choice.) I find the benefits of Gum Arabic, compared to the usual masking solutions, to be; far better control as to location of application, does not gum up like masking solutions, and can easily be washed off the brush and surface with warm water.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1376506_3464394144577_246973287_n.jpg)
After a coat of primer, base color, salt application, and a second color, the salt was removed with a soft brush and cold water, and the Gum Arabic was removed from the chrome surface with a slightly stiff brush and warm water.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1393626_3464394064575_1069631047_n.jpg)
I wanted to experiment with an idea I had for the cab, and that was using somewhat of a CM approach to the interior, to accentuate the feeling of depth and light and shadow inside.
After the dark rust toned undercoat/shading shown previously, I came in with a dark blue-grey-green in the lower areas and floor. This was applied over a coat of "Worn Effects", and then chipped and worn as needed. Since the gas tank will not be seen behind the eventual seat, I decided to use it to experiment with some scratching.
The cab upper and roof was also painted to in a CM type manner, and lightened down the sides as it approaches the lower portion.
This was then blended and post-colored, using oil Abt-502 oil paints; using a small flat brush for application and a wider flat brush for blending/feathering, I blended some white artists oil paint into and along the upper edges and sides of the lower section. This helped give a bit more of the modulated feel, as well as resulting in a nice satin finish to the paint.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1378596_3464502587288_804841028_n.jpg)
Even though the floor will not be easily seen I decided to have some fun with it, anyway (I often like to use areas like these to play around with ides techniques, or tools) Since the seat will cover the rear half of the floor, I only detailed the parts that could be visible. A mix of pigments and finely sifted soil was dabbed onto the floor and pushed into the corners, and spaces where it would collect and build-up. Into this I added some small pieces of hemp strands, and a few small pieces of dried parsley. I then used the white spirits to move and fix the pigments as I wanted. Once Dry I came back in with Pigment Fixer, to make sure the heavier areas of pigment and the leaves and hemp would stay in place. Lastly I went to my scrap box and found a small laser-cut wrench from VectorCut, a PE washer from Mig Productions, and a "rag" that I made quite some time ago using Milliput. The rag was painted using Vallejo acrylics.
[I basically thought the matt was a stupid detail and decided to ignore it. For the longest time I was trying to decide to what level to do the lower cab area as it really won't be that visible..... I still had so far to go on this build at this point, and the area is minimally visible at best if at all, so there was no way in hell I was going to try milling or sanding out the detail and creating a realistic floor board.]
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1383669_3464502627289_784090341_n.jpg)
This show the application of the of the artists oils on the dash area, used for the post-coloring, blending and modulation
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1375099_3464525107851_507638482_n.jpg)
The seat was painted with Tamiya colors, then shaded, modulated and grime added, using artists oils, and Abt-502 oils.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1378577_3464524787843_1411865804_n.jpg)
To make the duct tape repairs on the seat, I actually had to go and buy a package of Zig-Zag rolling paper.....felt very odd...I haven't bought rolling papers for more than 27 years.
I tried a number of things till I settled on the rolling paper. I find their thickness well scaled, they are tough and resist tearing, they don't absorb the paints like other papers (this allowing to get the correct colors/silver-ish effect, as well as leaving the back the whitish color that real duct tape has, when applying the painted paper is extremely pliable and well suited for creating the kind of wrinkles that you can get in duct tape, and for really seating into grooves and details in much the same way real duct tape does.
I painted on Mr. Metal Color "Aluminum" in the direction of the paper pattern and tape ribbons. When dry I used a soft cotton rag to buff down and wear off, some of the aluminum paint. This is a matter of choice and experimenting.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1383340_3464524747842_1558742269_n.jpg)
The paper was then cut into the desired/needed width scale strips. You should use a new sharp blade top do this, as it will decrease the deckling at the edges, or tearing. Once the strips were cut, I took the soft rag again and rubbed it lengthwise over them, to flatten any lifting/deckling at the edges. The strips...aluminum paint side up were then taped to a surface to hold them in place (this is optional but made it easier for me when doing multiple strips at a time.)
I then created a thinned wash/mix of Vallejo "Pale Grey" and "Oily Steel" paints. (the mix was "eyeballed" but probably somewhere around 80% Pale Grey to 20% Oily Steel....or even less oily steel. I did not actually premix the whole batch I did a quick dab & mix with the brush for each strip/stroke...this way there is some slight variation to the final pieces) This was painted over the aluminum color in two or three coats (till desired coloration/hue was reached).
The thin edge is absorbent, which is great, as it takes/absorbs the light wash very well, thus hiding the white cut edge perfectly.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1384089_3464524827844_74049365_n.jpg)
The strips were then cut to the desired length, and adhesive applied as previously described.
Mounting is a bit tricky ...but with some care/attention is not difficult. I lay the pieces flat and paint side down on a piece of scrap cardboard....then from a distance of about 18"+ spray a light and very fine misting of 3M Super77 spray adhesive. You don't want to get too heavy or it will squeeze out the sides when later pressing it onto the surface. The reason for spraying from the 18" is so that the paper receives a drier misting, and the force of the spray doesn't blow all your precut strip pieces off the cardboard...or flip them over causing adhesive to get on the front side. I then use a pair of flat tip tweezers to place the tape and create any folds or wrinkles when applying. Lastly I will use my finger or a soft rag to press the piece firmly in place..some places like over the welting detail at the edge of the seat, I used my fingermnail or the flat round tip tweezers to press the papaer into the recesses.
A note re the Super77 adhesive...In case you have not worked with this stuff before, I feel it is the best adhesive to use for this, because whatever you glue with it, will stay glued (unlike with the less sticky regular spray adhesives and Photo Mount sprays)....but with this wonderful permanence also comes the problem that when putting it down...once it makes contact with the surface...it is pretty much set...no changing, moving or adjusting.....you're done.
On some pieces I found Cyano Concrylite (super glue) is more forgiving,...but it needs to be applied very carefully and very thin.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1392819_3464525067850_1280912652_n.jpg)
On the detail parts where I wanted to try and get that get that old soft polished look that metal surfaces and plastic type steering wheels get; I painted these parts with a mix of Black and Buff Tamiya paints with some Gloss Clear in the mix. When dry, I painted the pieces with some "Ivory" (black) artist's oils. After about 5-10 minutes I used a soft cotton rag to burnish and polish the pieces till they developed the sheen I wanted (or at least as close as I was going to get). On the steering wheel this was then followed by some application Abt-502 off-white oil paint in the spoke region...so try and simulate more faded/greyed areas of the plastic where human hands don't keep the surface as polished and clean. Lastly I added some chips to show bare metal...on the air filter a oxidized aluminum, and on the horn area of the steering wheel the same (or an oxidized pot metal)...this was done using Vallejo Model Color paints and a 10/0 brush.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1375968_3464541308256_504450117_n.jpg)
Oils were also used on the engine block to accentuate the effects of the airbrushed CM base colors.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1235530_3464545668365_1549073884_n.jpg)
Once the paint was fully cured, small parts/details were added.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1383293_3464545628364_1429964948_n.jpg)
Many of the detail parts were painted individually, before being assembled. (Most also needed a good but of additional detailing and thinning to be more in scale.)
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1386002_3464546028374_1085470616_n.jpg)
The finished, and weathered engine, ready to be installed into the engine bay.
The filament from inside a light-bulb was used to create the carburetor spring.
The open hole with the blue plastic showing is for the pin that will eventually hold the thin rubber tubing , that is the radiator hose, in place.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/603204_3464545708366_100753023_n.jpg)
Among the details added was a dip-stick, made of fine brass tubing and strip.
I know absolutely nothing about engines and wiring (last time I actually did something under the hood other than change a battery or windshield washer fluid, was probably in 1983) so a lot of the detailing and wiring that eventually ended up in the engine bay and on the engine was based on/guessed from reference photos)
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1391897_3464545988373_1523518004_n.jpg)
Mix for the grease/oil texture material: (The idea for finely sieved soil addition came from Chuck Doan's method for oil staining.)
1. Finely sieved soil (preferably a high clay content soil) .[This helps give the mixture more body and texture.]
2. Dried Parsley (From the spice rack in the kitchen; no real leaf shape is necessary as in this case I am just representing random plant detritus. For effect or detail, a scale laser cut paper leaf or two could be included if and where appropriate/desired.) [This is optional and will depend on the operating environment of your vehicle, and the location/source of the stains.]
3. Small random sized pieces of fine hemp strands (I used the material from a specialty shop bag handle.) [This is optional and will depend on the operating environment of your vehicle, and the location/source of the stains.]
4. Black or charcoal pigment. (Dark brown can be mixed with the black, if needed/desired for variation, and type of stain or surface.)
5. Beige/grey pigment mixture (in this case this is the mixture that is being used for the general dust and dirt elsewhere on the model; but any mix will do, in order to give the final mixture an off-black/very dark grey appearance.)
The final mix of the above materials can be seen in the container in the foreground.
Took me a while to get the mix/coloring/approach to where I will be able to get a decent result.
Steps are:
1. AK 'Engine Grease'; brush applied
2. Sprinkled pigment mix [a mix of black, brown and beige pigments (AK & MIG); short cut pieces of fine hemp strands, dried parsley, and finely sifted dirt, mixed into the pigments.]
Repeat 1& 2 as necessary/desired.
3. Brush applied dabs, streaks, blotches, drips of thinned Abt-502 "Engine Oil" paint.
Repeat any of the above steps as desired/needed.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1377591_3464587589413_785170408_n.jpg)
In order to get the tires to hold the paint better, as well as ease some of the harsh edges and clean up any fuzz from sanding the tread, they were brushed with a fiberglass pencil. Note the use of a rubber glove to hold the tire, so as to prevent getting fiberglass splinters stuck in your fingers.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1376393_3464587989423_642401067_n.jpg)
The grease mix, along with a lighter similarly done mix, was also used to create the types of dirt and detritus accumulation elsewhere on the frame.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1381223_3464595829619_946013563_n.jpg)
The interior of the engine bay prior to the addition of oils and grease staining.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1375776_3464595789618_1241199969_n.jpg)
The frame and exterior of the engine bay (wheel well area)
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/562328_3464595749617_1446865110_n.jpg)
Marc,
That looks great, everything is perfect, I love the red shop rag.
Paul
Hey Marc
I've been waiting for a long time to see this build, great job, but now the issue of the magazine is not available, any ideas if it will ever be? or our you now and forever immortalized, like all those famous issues of great artists, that were never rereleased?
MPH
Very well done, Marc. Zig Zags for the duct tape is brilliant.
Ken
Wonderful Marc, and thanks for taking the time for the SBS. If I may be so bold as to make a comment on the seat however. Wouldn't a seat of such age have some depressions in it from someone's big fat ass (or in my case, skinny ass)?
Satisfactory.
And educational.
Russ
Fascinating stuff, very informative and useful!
Now you need to do more Truck models ;D....Nice work
This is a very informative and inspiring post. Now if i could just motivate myself to abandon the shiny stuff.
David
Thanks for the kind words guys.
Chester; yes you are correct, I did, though not very successfully make some depressions in the seat,....I ground out the underside and then pressed the surface down, but it was only minimally effective/visible at best. The better way to go to create the look would have been either through heating/softening the area, then deforming it, or just sculpting a whole new seat out of Milliput or sim.
Paul; thanks...glad it was understandable what I was trying to represent.
David; The shiny stuff is harder to do. :)
Craig; I think this satisfied my curiosity with truck models :)....and I thought I was done with 1/25 cars for a bit....but it appears, that as of this last week, Gordon has roped me into doing a 1/25 Trabant (or at least part of one). :)
Some more pics from the build:
Frame with engine, drive-train and wheels installed.
Shown with additional grease, oil, and other weathering applied to unify all the individual parts/sub-assemblies. (most of this will never be seen on the final model...but it's nice to know it's there, and it offers great opportunity to practice and experiment.)
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1395305_3465842580787_1082413735_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1375106_3465842540786_520585500_n.jpg)
The front bumper was painted and weathered to represent a bumper that has been repainted/over-painted over the years, by the truck's owner, using inadequate/inappropriate paint.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1383446_3465842980797_797001310_n.jpg)
View of the rear. The bumper was painted and weathered to represent an old home fabricated bumper that was at some point painted with silver spray paint, but had now faded and worn away almost completely.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1235459_3465843020798_740129844_n.jpg)
Another view of the rear.
The slight misalignment of the plates making up the hitch well is intentional and mimics what is often seen on the real thing.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1374282_3465843100800_465714188_n.jpg)
The frame with the lower/interior cab assembly in place.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1377977_3465842620788_797867911_n.jpg)
The ladder rack in progress. At the far side is what the rack looks like after a coat of paint, and adding chips and scratches. The foreground is after adding rust staining using a mix of Abt-502 oils, and AK Dark Rust Wash, and MIG Med Rust Wash.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1378591_3465882821793_677215843_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1378613_3465882861794_1097918764_n.jpg)
The plywood bed surface ready for installation. As real plywood was used and weathered for this, there were areas that I was not happy with on the results, and I was not able to find an acceptable piece/section/area big enough to cover the whole bed; so I used two pieces, making sure the seam was under the tool box, where it would not be visible on the finished piece.
(https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1374084_3465882901795_1857752420_n.jpg)
Marc,
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 19, 2013, 05:23:19 PM
... Some more pics from the build ...
The ladder rack in progress. At the far side is what the rack looks like after a coat of paint, and adding chips and scratches. The foreground is after adding rust staining using a mix of Abt-502 oils, and AK Dark Rust Wash, and MIG Med Rust Wash.
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1378591_3465882821793_677215843_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1378613_3465882861794_1097918764_n.jpg)
... ahhhh ... finally here it is ... :D ... that's what I was waiting for a long time - would be helpful colouring my HAWE frame! Could you please eventually specify the Abt. 502 oils ... and if the chips and scratches have been done in hair spray technique or have been done using positive chipping technique?
Cheers
Gerald,
The chipping is as always, a combination of methods. :)
The initial chipping was done using the HS method. An old cut down brush and a very sharp needle were used for the initial chipping and scratches. Then in any areas where I was not completely happy with the look, or wanted additional or specific detailing/appearance, I came in and did both positive and/or negative chipping using Valleyo acrylic paint.
If I recall correctly the color(s) was "Wash Brown".....as this and the rust color from them are what I usually use for my rust effects like this.
The level of detail on that rack just blows me away. So much fine scratches and chips, on parts that are only .040" square, is amazing.
As it has progressed I would suggest it is in the same league as Chuck's tractor. -- Russ
Great info and pics Marc, as I never did buy the book could you post a couple of shots of how you produced the finish on the carb ...... That always intrigued me.
By the way did notice the "pass the buck" comment re Trabant ........... May have to slip Wiki leaks a copy of the original emails to clear my name ;)
Gordon,
I wanted to give credit where credit was due :).
IIRC on the carburetor, I used an AlClad aluminum finish over a black base coat, followed by a light misting of the AlClad burnt metal or burnt chrome. Then it got a light pin wash with dark oil color to add some depth/bring out the detail.
Thanks.
Alclad, the devils brew of the painting world ...... For us non painters ;D
If those are just the out-takes the book will be worth buying.
Thanks Mark!
Great tips, tricks and methods.
Looking forward to trying some of these on a 1/16 truck.
Marty
Great model and a lot of details. :)Some areas of your model reminds me of the look of my '52 Ford F1 (scale 1:1) ;D
Fantastic addition to the book. One of the best SBS´ I have ever seen! Thanks very much for posting!
Ferguson....what´s the matter with Alclad paints? They are just as great as above SBS ;D!
Anders
I'm glad to see more on this too.
I haven't used Alclad, but it seems tricky. Sort of like Bare Metal Foil...what sadist came up with that? I admire those who wield both products well.
Marc, what do you use to glue the painted parts together?
Fantastic job Marc, as always!
An excellent complement to the Ak's book.
Franck
Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on October 20, 2013, 01:35:09 AM
Thanks.
Alclad, the devils brew of the painting world ...... For us non painters ;D
Only the chrome is a PIA, their other metal finishes are great, just like using any other paint, I use their aluminum and steel finishes all the time. They do require an airbrush though.
David
"Just like any other paint"
You hit the nail on the head there David ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 19, 2013, 05:23:19 PM
David; The shiny stuff is harder to do. :)
Not harder, just different. You can't make a mistake with the shiny stuff because it's usually impossible to fix or hide. However, the process is relatively simple, just prep and paint. The only research that may be required is finding out the exact paint code and getting an exact match but few car modelers bother and few judges know the difference. Heavy weathering allows the opportunity to fix/hide your mistakes relatively easily but there is much research required as well as specialized techniques to get realistic results. Just a week ago I helped judge a small local model car contest. The model that won the contest was a heavily weathered example however nowhere near the caliber of stuff shown here, not by miles, (it was a small, local contest remember, a free one at that.) there where many errors of logic and failure to be realistic, panel rust through where no water could have possibly gathered as one example. I'm no expert on weathering but that one jumped right out at me. Still, it was the best model at the contest, I guess that indicates the quality thereof.
David
Yes, logic and detail is where IMO so many weathered models start to fail. One does have to really think about how materials and things weather in different environments and under different uses. People need to understand what happens, where, and why, to something they are weathering. They need to do thorough photographic research of examples, and then be prudent in their selection of weathering.
I find you also almost always really have to up-detail....meaning add to, or refine, or completely replace the detailing (speaking of car kits here), as it is often missing some of the subtle small ridges, folds, edges and other fine detail, as well as generally being "chunky" and frequently poorly molded...and it is at these areas where weathering often starts and accumulates....so it is important to have this to give a reason and location to what is happening.
Mind you, I find this second part, re. the detailing, just as important when doing a beautiful shiny vehicle. The lack of this was to me the most disappointing, and affected every single car model, at the recent IPMS contest. No matter how beautifully assembled and painted, there was not a single one, that to me did not look like a toy car......none looked like like a "scale" vehicle. Two big failures that IMO really contributes to this on those car models was: The lack of the added and refined, or more true "scale" dimensions on the fine detail, and the lack of some kind of modulation or shading.....maybe those are the wrong terms....but chrome and shiny color at that scale need to be toned down (scale effect), chrome and shiny paint parts need "depth" in the reveals and recesses...candy apple red should not be as bright in the door crack or edge as it is on the door or hood surface....chrome in the recesses and nooks o a ribbed cylinder head should not be as bright as that on perfectly smooth surfaces....plus, the chrome really needs to be toned down just a bit.....again, for scale effect.....most all the chrome I saw there looked like a cheap kids toy...too thick, and too shiny, thus rendering it out of scale to the vehicle. Lastly ...and this is a personal gripe.....give it up with the metal flake finish....there was not a single one I saw, where the flake looked anywhere close or subtle enough to be in scale with the vehicle.
....all of these reasons and the skills it takes to overcome them, for me, make it very difficult to achieve a good/believable effect on a shiny vehicle...and thus I stay away from trying them (aside from the fact that I am by nature not that drawn to shiny things :) )
Now I understand where you're coming from. Yes, it would be very difficult to achieve that kind of realism in a shiny model, I know I've never approached that. That may be the reason I've been drawn to weathered subjects at times, but then I get distracted by shiny objects and don't linger with the rusty for very long. :D Maybe I'll change finally, maybe not, can never tell with me. ;D
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Tis' true what the boy he doth say ...................
This little MG, was about the best I could do - and I was trying my damnedest. You wouldn't credit the amount of fettling that's gone on with this project, it took me years for instance to figure out how to hand lace wheels ... and of course now every General and his Army does it, stripping and rebuilding the Radiator, re-profiling and re-sculpting body panels ............ actually waay too much to mention. But despite everything (and trying to take into account pretty much most everything Marc' mentioned) I ran out of talent anyway.
This build is probably ten years old or more now, and back in it's day it perhaps(?) shone quite brightly(?) But it would easy to tear it apart nowadays - almost an embarrassment to grace these pages with it.
And truth be told it pretty much finished me with Auto' modelling - at least in the Replica stock and Factory Stock categories.
...........Those things that mark mentions: Well they're pretty much impossible to reproduce in scale ... and what with being partially sighted - myopic you see? (s'cuse pun). I needed really to relax a bit more with my modelling (Which is why I've got onto a whole Wingnut wings kick!!!!!{excuse the irony)! .............And why I've been trying to get to grips with this whole "weathering" thing ... unsuccessfully it seems, so far!
Just saying that's all..............
Hello Andi. Laced wheels huh? I commend you for that one! I've never considered even attempting doing that. You touched on something I often wonder about, why invest so much time and effort into a model? The only people that understand and appreciate all that effort are other modelers, even then not all. If it wasn't for the local model car club which consist of several long time and newer friends I think I might have quit modeling some time ago, but even so I find it hard to be motivated.
Looks pretty nice to me Andi, and the hand-laced wheels are certainly impressive.
...Not to mention the choice of what vehicle to model and the overall execution. -- Russ
Thanks Marc. Great work. Love that engine.
Jerry
Are any of you guys technical enough to convert Marc's additional info into a pdf?
I tried but I am at a loss for actual pdf software.
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on October 22, 2013, 05:08:36 AM
Are any of you guys technical enough to convert Marc's additional info into a pdf?
I tried but I am at a loss for actual pdf software.
-Marty
Just compile all the info into software you are comfortable with, (ie. Word) even Wordpad could work for this. Download one of the free pdf printer drivers such as CutePDF or pdf995, install the driver then print to it, a dialog will come up asking for a name to save the file to and there you have it, a pdf version of that document. This is how I publish our club's monthly newsletter.
Andi, thanks for taking the time to post the pics and your comments. I remember that lovely piece....from another post here somewhere.
This next part is not to pick on you or your work...but as it is here, it does serve as an example of what I was trying to get across in the post....and this is what frustrates me....I see the beautiful hand laced wheels, but then in the next instant one gets hit in the face with the molded on detail-less wipers on the windshield.....and at IPMS, this is the type of things that really caused the cars to never get past the well painted toy look. I find that chrome parts...even if stripped of kit chroming, and then re done with paint or BMF....is where almost all the cars I saw, fell apart....the chrome parts so often not properly scaled, properly refined, or properly detailed...
....anyhow...enough soapbox.....and not in any way saying my build is not riddled with issues and flaws.....but here are some more SBS piscs that didn't make the cut.
This is a photo showing the sub assemblies placed together, to make sure that I was achieving a constancy of weathering, and that wear patterns made sense and lined up (primarily along the interior bed edges and the lower section of the tool box, and the rear bumper and vertical panel above it.) The image also shows the ladder rack after chipping, but before any rust effects were started.
(https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1422401_3503819610189_1426923327_n.jpg)
Changing out the thick plastic kit windows:
As is typical with these types of kits, the windows that came with the kit, are overly thick plastic, with an ugly molded on detail that is supposed to be painted to represent the rubber gasket.
In order to create more realistic windows, with real cracks, I decided to replace the plastic parts with microscope cover-glass (in this case 1"x2" ; 25x50mm).
Using some very low-tack frisket tape, rolled in a small tube to make it double-sided, the trimmed/sanded, and fitted plastic windshield part is lightly tacked to the glass. This is then placed class down, on a clean flat surface. (I recommend the use of cotton gloves through this cutting process, so that you do not leave prints/oils on the glass). The glass and piece are held in place with just enough pressure to keep either piece from moving...but not enough to break the glass...the part is then traced on the glass using a diamond tipped scriber. Once the whole piece has been traced, the excess glass will simply fall away.
The glass piece is then carefully separated from the plastic part, and a fine sanding stick is used to remove any burrs or irregularities, along the edge. Once this is done, the glass piece is carefully cleaned with glass cleaner and a soft rag.
Next, a piece of super clear packing tape, or Scotch tape if it works size-wise, is laid face up on a flat, lint and dust free surface (you want to make sure that the section of tape has no flaws, hairs, dust, or those odd flecks that occur form air bubbles during tape manufacture/rolling). The glass piece is then carefully placed on the tape. the tape is then trimmed. Once trimmed, a soft cotton rag can be used to lightly press/buff the glass tighter to the tape. (you should not have created any trapped air bubbles while applying the glass to the tape....as the glass is too fragile to allow you to force them out at this point). You can turn the piece over, so the tape faces up, and burnish down this side lightly...but check first on a test piece to see how susceptible your tape is to scratching or dulling.
To create breaks, or rock impacts, turn the piece so the glass faces up, and with a pointed wood dowel, toothpick, or other non-marring tool, press at the point you want the cracks, or impact, till the glass fractures...this can be repeated in the same or adjacent spots till you achieve the effect you want. Sharper harder tools will make sharper/smaller/denser impacts while broader tools will create a singular or more subtle pattern of breaks. (I recommend some experimenting).
Before you can install the glass, you will need to close down the kit/body window opening by adding the rubber gasket. For this I utilize some small styrene rod; carefully glued around the opening using liquid solvent. Don't try to do the whole window at once; using a piece of rod a bit longer than will be needed, start the gasket, so that it will have a seam, where the real life one would...glue a small starting section...let it dry, and then hold it in place with tape.....repeat this with a new section, till you have worked your way all the way around the opening.(NOTE: When gluing the styrene rod in place, you will want to make sure that the inside edge of the gasket is flush/even with the inside edge of the cab; I used a small piece of sheet metal for this. If you do not do this, you will end up with gaps between the gasket and glass,...or worse...your glass will not sit flush/flat to the window opening/cab interior.)
When dry, paint the gasket (I like a Vallejo or Life-Color rubber color)....then lastly, glue the glass piece in place (the tape should be on the interior surface)....for attaching this, you can use the Microscale Kleer Glue, the Testors Canopy Glue, or whatever you prefer.
Lastly, you can apply decals, to represent "stickers" (though make sure you tightly trim any excess decal film before applying), and you can weather the windows with oil washes, and pigments. If too much is applied, or it is too wet, the oil wash will flow/wick into the cracks....this is not bad, and it will accentuate the crack....but, you do not want so much of it to flow/wick in, that it has a chance of weeping/wicking between the glass and the tape on the inside.
(https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1385505_3503662846270_1013129241_n.jpg)
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 01, 2013, 02:00:47 AM
Andi, thanks for taking the time to post the pics and your comments.
No problem with your observations Marc' - pretty much why I posted the pic's in order to support your argument - [although I'm sorry that I'd repeated the object of the posting - it's getting harder to remember what I have and haven't done lately]?
Nope, I was pretty much getting at your point as well - it was just an abject exercise in frustration that the kits were in need of scrapping and rebuilding to get even close to anything that didn't resemble a die-cast model that you'd just bought off of a shelf - not helped I think by the fact the board I was frequenting at the time would go into raptures over anything that looked like a Maisto or Welly and would rarely raise much more than a eyebrow to a project that you'd just chased to the edge of reason.
I've now got a lifetimes collection of car kits that I know will never be built because of exactly these issues!!!
Marc have you ever tried tinting the glass green in your model cars. Its something that is there on real cars and real glass, but something I dont see replicated in scale models?
I wish I could find the picture of the tinted glass I recently viewed that was done using thinned Future and food coloring. It was very subtle but effective. Love the truck Marc, thanks for all the sbs's.
Narayan,
Yes, I have tinted glass....smaller pieces though, not windshields...and generally it has been colors. I did it by using Tamiya gloss clear colors, airbrushed onto the glass surface (I prefer to airbrush it on an interior surface whenever possible, because the clear gloss does not have the same realistic glass appearance as the real glass. Even when coated/sprayed with Future afterwards.
To get that greenish tint, you would have to find the right mix of blue green...and the right intensity mix, of that color, into gloss clear...it would need to be so faint, I don't know if you would notice it. The real glass (slide covers) though thin, probably adds that effect all by itself to some degree.
How would you do curved windshields on later model cars? Make a plaster mold of the original, then fire up the blast furnace to do a gravity bend?
At the risk of seeming boorish? - this is just gift wrap acetate held in with bent florists wire.
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PS - Notice I replaced the windscreen wipers on this one!!! ...................... ;)..................... :P
But, as a build it precedes the MG TC by about ten years - gulp.
A rather cool model, with or without the tinted windshield. -- Russ
How did you cut the windshield to fit the opening? Trial and error?
Sorry to be late to this party! I bought the book last week for my birthday and so I'm very pleased to have these extra steps to look at. I have only glanced at most of the book and while the pictures are beautiful, the written descriptions in the first build of the VW bus are lacking (being kind) for a book at this price and aimed at this level of detailing.
Marc, this must be the best detailed 1/25th model car I have seen. I have seen some models with more details added but they don't necessarily add anything to the completed item. Throwing etched badges and resin aftermarket parts at a model without thinking of the final effect isn't always the best way. Unfortunately, Marc, you hit the nail on the head with your summing up of vehicle modelling (I include truck modelling in this) and it is a catch 22 situation. Because most vehicle modellers are happy to accept poor detailing from the manufacturer with soft mouldings, poor scaling or over thick sections and details such as wipers moulded in then that is what we get. Yes, Tamiya and Fujimi etc do much more to address this but the subject matter (Ferraris and such) just don't do it for me I'm afraid!
I am a member of a few model car forums and they do like their shiney, over polished bodies with thickly chromed parts badly fitted to the body because you can't make them fit for fear of damaging the chrome!
Thanks again for taking the time Marc (and Gordon, get that Trabant finished ;D)
I should have saved the pictures! I know this thread is 18 months old but I was just going to steal some ideas.... ;D
Thanks to Gordon for pointing out where I can find them!
are you going to keep it a secret? please tell us how rabble like us can also see the pictures too
thanks
MPH
On Marc's Facebook page in his albums ;D
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH ::)
thanks
MPH