Hello guys,
Well, get so far away from tractors, crawlers, trailers ! As I said before, less building for more painting. So, not more easy but still funny work
Here's is my first Industria Mechanika project and the step by step process will be focused on the painting operation. Thanks Michael for your work.
Nice kit and wonderful pictures inside. Interesting drawings of Kallamity and various inspired overall paintings. I've amazed by the pictures of Scott Robertson final so this is this one that I'm going to represent.
Easy building and good ajustments for the different parts. No more details to add even if I add an antenna and a safety rail on the left side to complete the ladder steps.
Very easy fitting for the front grill. Same for the turrel and a little putty is used to joint the hull to the turrel correctly.
The strong cast is very useful to handle the model and no risk for damage when working on it.
Next pictures. The kit includes a special little tool to bend the wire to realize the steps at tha same size. I just change the metal rod by a brass rod to shape the steps for an easier job. The holes are about 1 mm diameter and the parts are glued with epoxy glue.
The overall picture shows the different parts after a first sanding job. I just control if every part gets right with the other one.
Georges.
Some new pictures of the process.
The building is over and needs to be clean in a soapy bath. This has to be done carefully to protect from any damage on the PE parts as the hooks.
Let it dry for a night.
I spray with the airbrush several thin layers of brown primer. It covers quite well without any excess of paint. This first operation gives a neat depth to the model and unify all the extra parts to the main cast.
Let it dry for a night.
I paint some shades with dark brown acrylic paints to add some more contrast to the model.
The idea now is to represent a Kastor that has been hardly used and repainted over the original color. So, we have to think about the way that the colors were before and how they become. In this case, I'm gonna use a large variation of tones from red to orange.
To create this particular Scott's scheme colors, I use the hairspray technique to realize a very chipped hovertank.
I start to lay the hairspray in very thin coats to avoid any drops of fluid. This will be important for the next operations.
The front bumper is painted as well.
When the hairspray is completely dried, I can start to represent the old color so I apply four tones of red and two of orange. The red colors are applied on the panels, tha main hull as the corners are in orange.
This operation needs to be done carefully because the orange paint doesn't colore a lot so many coats are needed.
Very fun job !
In a second time, I use a sponge to create colorful spots just to add some variation in tones and this is made in a random way.
I paint in red the circular lights for a strong effect even if this could be done after.
The last picture shows the paint before any rust.
Next step : rust !
I use warm water and a brush to remove the paint easisy. Sorry I forget to get a picture of that step. The aim of this step is just to get off some paint on the corners quite soothly and to leave the bright color.
Georges.
I'm glad you know what you are doing. I can't think more than one step ahead with paint so, at this stage, I would think I had spoiled my model. (Of course, I often ruin them anyway ....). -- Russ
@Russ : The result is in my head but not sure to succeed in the same way. This is an experimental painting process by using the hairspray technique. The blue manure spreader was the first real test. It's pretty cool to compare HS to fluids from AK Interactive.
No picture of the model after removing some paint on the corners.
Now, I represent the rust and damages on the corners, panels, in a certain random way but in a logical way. This is made with fewer types of sponge to create different shapes od chipping and rust damages. Quite long as the model is huge.
I use acrylic paints from Citadel. Very easy work and great constrast on the red / orange colors. Tone as dark brown is perfect. No major difficulty to complete the scheme color.
The red / orange was the real color of the Kastor for one time. After a lot of wars, the Army decided to repaint it in the new colors.
To be continued ...
Georges.
Consistent improvement. -- Russ
This final work with sponge is sealed with a thin coat of matt varnish to protect this primal result. This is followed by several kayers of Heavy Chipping fluid from AK applied with the airbrush. These coats need to be thin to avoid any fluid drops.
Let it dry as long as necessary.
Then, I apply a white color to represent a kind of primer color. This will create a new contrast between the ''old red / orange first color'' and the brand new gray color. I use two tones of white acrylic paint from Prince August. This is made gently with the airbrush to give some variation.
It looks like a winter camo for tanks. Easy to do and hope that the HS technique will work ...
After a short while, I start to remove this new paint with warm water and a hard / medium brush. It's better to work panel after panel to control this operation. Depending the thickness of this paint, the results can be different in the size of the chips or the shape of chips.
Nice result. Ready to add some more details.
Georges.
Thanks to the very strong casting of the hull, it's possible to ''scratch'' the brush quite hardly.
Georges.
I finish this first work by adding some fresh vivid paints to increase the tones variations. This is made with sponge.
The color is sealed with matt varnish. Then I spray several thin layers of hairspray on the model. Let it dry for a white.
Now it's time for the two gray tones colors. I choose a light gray to contrast with the drak gray. I start with the light gray on the bottom without masking the upper part. This is done with the airbrush and in a very unified color, no variation for the moment. Very easy work.
Let it dry. Then I mask the lower part to paint the top of the hull with the drak gray. I use Tamiya masking paper to limit the different panels I want to paint with the new color.
The dark gray is very easy to lay and the contrast is very sweet. Nice looking, isn't it ?
I choose to proceed to a ''post-shading'' action. I use the same colors by mixing the light and the dark grays, and by adding a light blue as well. The corners are lighten as the holes and deep areas are blackened. Nice job to underline the details.
Georges.
So, this post-shading process is done and get ready for the next step. As usual, warm water and brush / toothpick.
Panel after panel, thepaint is removed smoothly. The HS technique is still magic. All the previous steps and colors appear and create a nice colorful patchwork.
Different types of brush are used to get more variations in the chipping process.
Georges.
The chipping process is done on the hull.
The kit contains no decals so I choose some in my remainting stock. To contrast a little more, the numbers are white and will create nice variations when rusted.
I use decals for modern military planes. Very easy work. After beeing applied, the painting and the decals are sealed together under a coat of satin varnish at first, and the under a matt varnish in a second time.
Ready for some more weathering process.
Georges.
Same process for the railgun and the front blade / bumper. This part is very well shaped and nicely detailled. I just add two hooks and two handles.
Primer and cream paint on the first coats. A coat of HS is applied between and the chipping process can start. Very pleasant job.
The rust is applied with a sponge to give a variation in tones before the cream paint.
The chipping step is sealed with a coat of matt varnish.
Several layers of HS rae layed with the airbrush as I use salt for more chipping details before the red color.
Georges.
The bumper is painted in a variation of red / orange paints.
Nice work for the airbrush.
Georges.
The paint on the bumper is removed with warm water and a brush. Decals will follow.
Georges.
Nice contrast between the hull and the bumper 1/2.
Other side of Kastor 2/2.
Georges.
The railgun receives the same painting process than the hull.
Same colors and still HS technique to achieve.
Georges.
Railgun with new colors.
Gray paint to finish the painting process. Paint has to be removed then weathering.
Georges.
The weathering process needs oil paints and rust effects. I use some from AK.
The lights are half-spheres of glass and I paint them in yellow / clear yellow from Tamiya. These will give to the Kastor some gloss touch.
For the sign panel on the left side of the turrel, I use smaller lights and some are painted with clear red / Tamiya. And so on for the rear lights at the back of the hover tank.
Georges.
The back side of the hull gets some new colors.
Georges.
The paint and weathering effects are really coming together nicely!
Thanks Ray.
Pictures of the finished railgun. Very cool inspiration of Kallamity's design.
Last part on the workbench : the engine.
The rear side is nicely detailled and gives me the opportinity to paint burned metal. The three reactors need this particular effect that will contrast with the whole engine.
For the external part, I start with :
- a coat of gloss black for ''primer'' ;
- a coat of drak to light metallic gray with shading ;
- a shade of clear blue, red and yellow (acrylic Tamiya) ;
- differents oils to tone the details on the tailpipe.
For the inside part,
- a coat of matt black ;
- Black Smoke pigments / Mig Productions for the soot.
For the engine, it is painted as the hull. New details as hand wheels are painted in red to give some light colors on this dark part of the hovertank. The pipes need some brass / copper tones.
The rear light are clear half-spheric balls of glass. A layer of Clear Red / Tamiya is applied to paint them with a gloss effect.
Georges.
Two figures are delivered into the kit but I'm going to use only one for the Kastor. Painting figure is not my favourite part of the painting for the moment. But I work on ...
A long work when you are not skilled enough ! GGrrrrrrrr ...
Georges
The Kastor is finished and ready to land on the tarmak. Still have to fit the railgun.
Georges.
Satisfactory. -- Russ
It's time for the diorama. I use a compressed sheet of wood and the floor is made with a 1 millimeter sheet of Evergreen. The scene will take place in a space station where the Kastor used to stay for maintenance and refuelling.
I engrave joints with a knife for the first work. Very easy and just need some inspiration.
The size is about 20 centimeters (7,87 inches) x 29 centimeters (11,42 inches).
A coat of light gray primer is layed on the floor and I preshade all the panels with dark grey paint to underline them.
Georges;
Here is a view of the overall display and the fuel pump is primered. Get it far from a Gulf or Texaco unit !
All the pre-shading process is over and wearthering operations can start with light and dark stains with sponges of different sizes and brush. Jsut need some acrylic paint for that step. Random inspiration for the moment.
Georges.
Is it just me, or...
Is this work (and others) by "Bill76" are way overdone, garish and too bright and contrasty?
It seems he does very good builds, but when it comes to finishing up and weathering, he follows
all the right steps, but the result is "overdone". He needs to learn some subtlety and finesse.
Just my 2 cents,
Carlo
No, it's not just you. I was wondering whether it was how the camera records color or whether a light overspray or two would help to unify and tone down the colors. -- Russ
I agree that when representing a true model as I did for the Cat D4C, trying to catch the real colors is very important and so you need to respect the real thing. For that I'm OK.
But concerning the Sci-fi items, what reality do I need to respect ? My answer is my own inspiration.
Or maybe our screens are certainty not the same. Go to a TV shop and compare a Sony, Panasonic, Samsung TVs and look at the difference ...
Or try a normal iPad to a Retina iPad : the same picture won't look the same !
Georges.
I apply some decals on the tarmak and they still look new. Somr are waterslides ones and some are dry tranferts so very easy to scratch with a little knife.
Ready for weathering. First, I use two coats of blue filters thinned with odourless white spirit. The blue filter / AK for gray paint is perfect and starts to ''link'' all the panels together softly.
Next step : adding stains and dark filters in the joints and details.
Georges.
More weathering on the tarmak. I use dark wash / Mig production to underline joints between the panels. Let it dry.
Around the pump, I add more stains with Citadel products (black and brown) that will give glossy spots.
The Kastor will be fixed with two brass rods for a strong fitting.
Georges.
Some pictues of the final Kastor.
Georges.
Nice!
QuoteNice!
Nice!! looks pretty aggressive to me ;D
Impressive Model work.
Michael
Well, that turned out well, didn't it? And the project moved right along. -- Russ
Thank you guys for comments. Maybe Michael, you can imagine that the railgun is loaded with soap mixture for a ''bubble party'' !!
Here is the final step : the Kastor has landed on sector 8 for refuelling.
Georges.