Hello guys,
Best wishes for everyone for this Happy New Year !
It's nice to be back on this forum after some personnal events. My father passed away a few weeks ago and still quite hard to accept this fact but that's life and I just hope that now, he can rest in peace. So I dedicate this project to his memory. Thanks Dad for everything.
So, I decide to start my Caterpillar project after finishing a 1/32 Track Marshall ag crawler. Weathering that really first tracked tractor has given to me some experience in working on tracks. And thanks to Adam Wilder's displays, it's quite funny and the results can be very surprising.
This 1/32 scale kit is from Wespe Models. This supplier used to sell 1/35 and 1/50 units as military items. And some construction models as the french brand Poclain. Pretty nice as well.
This box contains a fully resin kit with a limited construction process indication but on a first overlook inspection, it's seems to me correct for the price (25 € / 30 $). Even if the box is noticed as beeing a D4E model, the kit represents a D4C that can be seen in the early 60'. Compared to the ones I used to know in France, a 1963 D4C could be a good comparaison.
The picture in the front side of the box is what the kit can offer, not very realistic so some more details will have to be added to make something correct.
So let's have a look on the differents parts : a cab can be fitted or not, a ajustable blade but no rear implement except a hitch for a trailed implement (usually a disc harrow).
The tracks are a four pieces fitting and I prefer to buy a extra kit from Scaledown Models (UK) to increase the realistic effect.
Georges.
Sorry to hear about yuor father. My condolences.
This looks like it will be a very intersting build. I cant wait to see how you go about this build, and all the wonderful scratchbuilt details you create.
Marc
@Marc : thanks a lot for your support. You need to be patient : ''Tout vient à point à qui c'est attendre !''.
My first overall impression when I opened the box a few months ago was that it looked quite easy and a fully complete assembly. But after looking at the pictures joined (I will add them), several questions happened as ''How can it be mounted ???''. And I really don't still really know how can the kit be esily mounted ''directly from the box''. Hmmm, impossible or OK but not for a realistic purpose.
Even if the shape of the bonnet or the chassis seem to be quite well casted, a lot of work has to be done as I decided not to fit the cab even if the cab is very nice. This cab has been made from a european supplier, I suppose, after finding some pictures from UK. They were usually made with fiber glass and the main aim was to protect from the sun/ rain / dust / wind but not from the NOISE. I know a Caterpillar D8 with such a cab : wow !!! It's more that a Metallica's concert on Creeping Death ...
So, no cab on the D4C.
The different parts are well casted and the details are on them but too soft so everything will have to be reconsidered. The operating levers are available as the exhaust pipe and the air filter. None of them will be keeped.
At least, I keep the chassis, the bonnet, the track system, the fuel tank, the blade and the seat.
Unfortunatly, the worth part are the tracks. I can't imagine that such a disgusting units can be fitted. I prefer to by some new white metal new plates in addition to give an usual shape.
The only good thing was the fact that all the bolts were represented on the tracks compared to the white metal plates where they aren't !!! Four bolts per plate, 36 plates per track, two tracks per one D4C ... I'm glad to have bought last year my Punch and Die !!!!!
The blade delivered is an adjustable blade that can turned on the left / right side depending the type or work. A central axle on the front U frame allows the rotation of the blade just by moving two small pins.
It is left by two hydraulic rams and two triangle arms for a good lifting hight or depth when operating. This fitting was common on the early Caterpillar D4. Even in France or Europe.
Finally, some pictures of the Caterpillar in the way it should be ... The way it won't be ! At all ...
Georges.
My condolences on the loss of your father.
It should be interesting to see how you assemble and improve this kit.
@Ray : thanks for your comment and for following this project.
This kit is the my first resin experience as far I used to work on white metal before. Lot of sanding operations to do on the parts and to ''reshape'' some of them. The geardrive is really ''suggested'' and poorly detailled, the back of the main chassis as well. So, many extra details will be fitted from Evergreen and plastic sheet.
The different parts need to be ajust due to the casting molds. I've been working on this for a white even if I'm not very fond of this kind of job. As my little kitchen bench ...
As I decide not to use the cab, the fuel tank has to be reshaped with plastic and putty to give it a round shape. The back of the seat is rebuilt by the same time. Lots of bolts will be added with a new hitch. The hitch from the box was so unsuable that I prefer to design a local one to fit a drawbar.
Concerning the seat, I was expecting to give some effect as a old crakled leather so I try this with, barefold ??. In fact, this is a very thin sheet of silver glued and applied with a soft brush. It gives a nicely cracked effect. That was the first time that I use this product and it needs some control to put it straigh away. Not bad for a first using.
I keep in place the spring system on the front side of the chassis because it was enough detailled. Just need some sand paper work on it.
Georges.
A view of the back.
QuoteThe tracks are a four pieces fitting and I prefer to buy a extra kit from Scaledown Models (UK) to increase the realistic effect.
Georges
If Scaledown tracks are an improvement, the Wespe ones must be really, really bad! I'm looking forward very much to seeing what you do with this.
@krusty : I respect Wespe Models for all the work they do and I respect a lot this brand but the tracks are really bad because they're not articulated.
Concerning the Scaledown ones, they are not as perfect as Friul plates but I found nothing else for this D4C at the 1/32 scale.
Of course, I have to add 288 bolts on them but it works.
Do you have some good / bad experience with Scaledown kits before ?
Georges.
Would the Trumpeter Stalinets S-65 possibly be useable? I know it's a different scale, but maybe it's a bigger machine...so the tracks might "scale" up OK.
Marc
@Marc : good advice. I have tried some other tracks before but even if the difference between 1/32 and 1/35 seems to be rather the same, the difference is unfortunatly really important and you can't make any mistake between each scale.
It's easy to find tracks at the 1/35 scale but as there is a very low demand for 1/32 items, finding any extra details for 1/32 is always a crusade ! Same problem for the figures on dioramas ... Hélas !
Anyway, the Caterpillar is already on its tracks. Georges.
QuoteDo you have some good / bad experience with Scaledown kits before ?
I started assembling their E27N with the DG6 halftracks several years ago, but eventually decided there were less frustrating ways to pass the time. A friend assembled one of their Counties and there was more flash than casting on the tracks. Their kits for the more modern rubber-tyred tractors aren't too bad, but those with tracks or the older machines on steels need a lot of work.
Hi guys,
Lot of work on the tracks to get the 288 bolts. More than two hours have been useful on the Punch en Die ! About the same time to built the tracks because almost all of the holes have to be drilled again because a bad casting. I spent rather six hours to fix all the bolts on the plates but it worth. The plates are mounted with a brass pin and it's quite easy to bend it and to cut it very shortly not to be seen.
The track system is pretty good and many blots as well have to fix. Big papersanding operation around the axle. I add a U reinforcement for the blade spring on the back of the tractor to be sure of the strenghness of it when painting.
All adddionnal parts are made with styrene and Evergreen.
Georges.
Some more details on the hood : all the bolts casted have been cut and I add a lot of styrene bolts, capsfor the different tanks (hydraulic system and cooler system). The hydraulic valves for the front blade are included in the oil tank. A shaver mesh is fitted on the front side of the hood as I add the inside part of the air cooling system as well. Same work on the engine with injectors details and the front propeller that is missing in the original kit.
Two fittings take place for the two front lights.
The exhaust pipe is new and made with a 3 mm brass tube : the cap is made with styrene and a piece of metal sheet. This one can be shut or open. The air filter is coming from my boite à rabiot.
The different panels are engraved to give a very neat effect when painting and weathering.
No more words, just pictures.
Georges
The exhaust pipe and the air filter are on the right place.
Next step : the blade.
Those are nice tracks. Just make sure to install them in the correct direction.
Put them on the wrong way and they will pack the dirt in between the shoes.
Keep the pictures coming.
@Dave : I notice that you know how the tracks are fitted despite what we can think about the shape of the plates. It seems to be in the wrong way but thanks to pictures of real crawlers, no wrong way.
Georges
Looking good! I like the "flip cap" on the end of the exhaust pipe -- that's a nice touch.
This type of blade was common in the 60' and seems to be the early hydraulic lifting system on these Caterpillar. The blade can moved around two big pins on a U frame and the action is coming from a combination of two rams / two triangles for high extension.
The original blade is very poor detailled and needs to be rebuilt. The lower part is fitted with a new line of bolts as the upper gets a extra extension.
The blade is mounted on the U frame with several pins to adjust the angle of the blade. Four arms allow the fitting and the ajustments? The arms are brand new.
All new parts are made with styrene and Evergreen.
Some more pictures of the the blade.
Next step : the canopy.
Georges.
The building is on the last run and the canopy is the only fantasy on this Caterpillar. This canopy is inspired from a picture seen a D4C brochure in an ''African version''.
Funny part to built and I use a rolling machine. Very easy job to roll this metal roof. The main frame is made with 3,2 mm Evergreen. Some details are fitted as handles for an easy access on the driving plat-form.
Several levers are added for the brakes and the gear box.
Next step : the entire kit ready for the final assembly.
Georges
I like that canopy, it should look really good on the cat!
@Ray : thank you.
Last parts for the D4C : the two hydraulic rams. Not the easiest parts to do because of a lack of inspiration in the beginning. No way to use the two ones included in the kit.
The cylindric part is made with a 4 mm tube and a square end is added with four bolts. Each end is equipped by a ball joint and they are made with glass pearls for neck lace (from scatchbooking stuff and cheap as well !). That gives a ''round aspect'' and copes quite while with the extrenal part of the ball joint. Bolts are made with Punch and Die.
The main difficulty was to find a way to built a chrome ram rod and I've been searching for a while because I didn't want to paint just a plastic rod. So I spent a lot of time at looking for such a stuff. And, one day I discover in a farm display shop a box of syringes for cows. And the size of the needles were those which diameter could fit (1,6 mm).
The needle is cut at the good size and to reinforce the fitting, I add a rod into the needle to the external part of the ball joint. Good fitting, good looking !
The hydraulic hoses will be mounted later.
Here are some pictures. Georges
Two mores pictures with the entire rams.
Last stage of the building : the front grill. This special design grill gets more than 300 holes and fortunatly, a friend of mine owns a computerized drill so quite easy to realize. All the holes are in an area that measures 1,5 centimeter by 1,6 centimeter (0,59 inch by 0,63 inch). So I prefer to make it as real as possible instead creating a decal.
So here's the whole kit ready for a cleaning operation.
Georges.
Quote from: Bill76 on January 24, 2013, 01:10:50 PM
Last stage of the building : the front grill. This special design grill gets more than 300 holes and fortunatly, a friend of mine owns a computerized drill so quite easy to realize. All the holes are in an area that measures 1,5 millimeter by 1,6 millimeter (0,059 inch by 0,063 inch).
Wow, that's small! I'm so used to seeing models in larger scales, and this looks so good, that it's easy to forget how small it actually is.
@Ray : I have given a wrong information : it measures 1,6 centimeter (0,63 inch) by 1,5 centimeter (0,59 inch). The drill is 0,6 millimeter diameter so 0,023 inch.
About 0,4 millimeter (0,015 inch) between each hole and the plastic sheet thickness is 0,25 millimeter ( 0,0098 inch).
Now, that's correct. Georges
Well I have got to give it to you for your perseverance and quality of workmanship on a kit that would have hit "the bin" within minutes of me opening the box.
keep the excellent work up.
Barney
Ah, I see. But that's still pretty small!
Why isn't it painted, weathered, and detailed yet? We're getting impatient with these unnecessary delays. -- ssuR
Some pictures of the final assembly. First coat of gray Panzer paint and brown from Prince August paints.
All the other little parts as levers or lights are painted seperatly.
I painted some faded and brighter areas with Dark Flesh and Vermin Brown from Cidadel paints.
The HS and sponge techniques are gonna be used for this first stage of painting. I add some scratches and rusty colors from the Lifecolor ''Rust and Dust'' set. The whole kit is worked with this process.
A coat of Worn effects from AK is sprayed before the yellow paint.
Georges.
Georges,
this is a great little build, and you have done wonders with the basic kit!.
Look forward to seeing how your painting works out
I really must get back and paint my crawler ::)
Georges, the model look great it always amazes me when all the different types of materials are unified with colour.
Michael
Thanks guys for your comments. You're right Gordon : the gray paint is very cool and gives a very different strenght when applied.
I finish the primer paint with a yellow foundation from Citadel. This paint has a good coverage rate and the other forthcoming coats of yellow paints will be easier.
All the acrylic paints are from Prince August. For my first real test of the modulation technique, I choose five different colours : three yellow, white and a brown (cholocate) for the darkest areas. The aim is to create a lot of fading and contrasted shades. They are used straight from the bottle and mixed.
The main work is on the hood and the canopy. As noticed before, I spray Worn effects from AK on all the parts for weathering.
The hood shows the various shades made with the airbrush. Fewer layers of paint hane been laid before a good result.
Georges.
It is really starting to come together. -- Russ
@Russ : thanks.
First test : the engine. With warm water, I start the chipping process softly to feel the different reaction between the water and the AK fluid. Good starting. For the moment ...
Depending the thickness of the paint, the reaction is sometimes a bit surprising and a good control of the brush is needed. A primal scratch operation with brush and toothpick is done in a random way but realistic (I suppose ...) way. It appears rough but this will be less in the next stages.
Another shot. This operation is very funny and it's very interesting to see how the HS technique is going on. This helps to know how thick or thin the AK fluid must be and how much water or brush work is needed ! Very interesting work.
I try to respect an usual wear on this type of crawlers.
The seat is roughly paint with an black acrylic paint from Citadel.
Georges.
That's a real nice tractor you've got going there! Following along & looking forward to the finishes ...
Cheers,
Dallas
Looking good!
Really nice work on the build and and detailing of this kit ........it definitely paid off. But then we expect no less from you ;D
I like how the gray you chose underneth starts to give the feel of raw metal. Some edges/chipped areas you might want to compliment with some sponge chipping to soften them at the edges (feel more "worn")...and you my want to add some "positive" chips back in at some of the large more blotchy chips/areas, as well as to detail some of the chip edges......but I am just being critical and nit-picky. I look forward to seeing this progress.
Marc
@ Dallas, Ray : thanks for following.
@Marc : I still need some advices, you know. So anyone can feel free for any comment or experience. This project makes me think a lot about painting. Building a kit or just scratching is a thing but painting is becoming more and more interesting. You are completely right by saying how important is the first coat of paint as the grey. That gives a very strong impression after a long building process.
The main thing I learn is the importance of the rusty effects even if I tried to create different shades with sponge and airbrush. These effects have to be subtle and I've been too ''light'' in the modulation of paint. In fact, this step is as important as the final color of the model. Quite interesting job but still more job to do !!
On the other hand, the HS technique has to be improved a lot to control the final result. I notice that the AK Worn Effects / Heavy Chipping fluids are correctly laid on a acrylic paint. But on a mate varnished surface, these fluids make drops and when it dried, I'm not sure that the coat is regular even if I use the airbrush for very thin layers. I have some bad surprises ! So, if anyone can tell me the best way to apply these fluids on a varnished surface.
Some parts of the model have to be repainted because of too hard scratches with the brush and because the paint wasn't sticked enough. Grrrrrrrr !!!!!!
The decals are made on computer and ink printed on a special sheet of waterslide paper. Four ''Caterpillar'' for the front grill, the back fuel tank and two for the sides of the seat. One more decal is for the factory licence plate and the other red one is just for fantasy. This one gives a small touch of red paint in this yellow ocean.
Georges.
A coat of satin varnish and after a coat of mate varnish will seal the decals. The seat is paint in black (Citadel Black Chaos) and dry brush with Codex Gray / Fortress Gray from Citadel as well. The seat won't be destroyed as John's Caterpillar one ! Maybe for the next one ...
I will add probably a ''dust-cloth'' on it to cope with the overall aspect of the dozer.
I am looking at these images, here is my critique/suggestions/what I seem to feel:
Use hairspray instead of the Chipping Fluid...it should solve your texture problem.
Some of the areas look like the paint is on very thick (part of this is likely due to trying to cover the base ctones...yellow can be tough to work with as it doesn't always cover very well)...this will make it difficult to chip, and they will tend to come off in larger chunks. Thinner layer s also will allow you to better control your chipping.
When doing the panel shading and such, as you did on top....instead of putting down the dark yellow first, put down the light color first (over some HS)....then shoot another coat of HS...then apply the darker color. This does two things. The lighter color underneath will create a base for the darker yellow over...and you will be able to shoot a thinner coat of the dark. ...secondly...when you chip, you will have lighter edges or shading around the edge of the chips (as is often seen on heavy equipment scratshes/chips)...and because you have two layers of HS, if you are careful, you will be able to chip through the first (dark layer) and leave the lower in-tact, or mostly in-tact. (this will give you some nice variation).
There are a lot of large worn areas, and blotches, but no small fine scratches and such. The kind caused by say shrubs and tree branches, wire fences, and other small things that hit parts of the dozer. (these can be made by very lightly drawing a thin sewing pin/needle acros the surface...not enough to fo down through the primer though (I do them so light that at times they are hard to see)...then woking a maed soft brush dampened with water, back and forth across them (perpendiculartly)...till the just start to show. Sim can be done with a sharpened toothpick for another scratch size/detail...but it takes more pressure to create the initial scratch.
Try "mapping" or painting in "positive chips", into reduce the size or correct/alter the shape of some of the large chips. You can also map areas adjacent to chips to create a more layered/varied/damaged paint effect. (If you look at the recent pic of the Daihatsu build, you can see on the interior where I did this intentionally with a different shade of blue (there are actually also other less niticeable ones in other shades)...this was both done for effect, as well as to correct/hide some areas that I felt had too much, or incorrect, chipping.
I think you are putting too much concern and empahsis on the initial color modulation.....much of this affect can be achieved/accentuated/modified after painting, using artists oil paints....and with much more control and finesse. Adding/using Filters ...varying per panel, and changing hue/color in sunny vs shaded areas, will also help accentuate/create this effect.
Dont forget that you can also do panel fading and discoloration using the artists oils....this again will help define individual parts of the model.
@Marc : thanks for all these advices.
This yellow paint is very thick to light the rusty color. Even if I use the Citadel Foundation yellow paint. The paint was as thick as a skin and the water / brush work has been very hazardous and hard to control despite a low amount of AK fluid.
But you will see in the forthcoming pictures of the blade that, finally, this accident has some interesting results like remaining chips that rolls (sorry not to be able to describe this effect correctly). You will see the pictures.
It is correct that oil paints give more variation and discoloration and maybe it could be easier that the modulation process. Need to try some more !
Georges.
Yes, that is good where the paint is peeling back like that.
Very realistic.
Well beyond my capabilities.
8)
If you are new to these techniques and your results are that good then you have a lot of talent! It looks very good so far, even with its minor flaws. -- Russ
@Dave and Russ : thnak yoy for your comments. Maybe I'm a serious student teaching with good teachers !
I'm starting the coats of oil paints with a selection of various tones (rust, blue, green and white). I put some paint on a cartboard to keep the excess of oil and to prevent from a gloss finish on the CAT. After twenty or thirty minutes, the paint seems ready to be thin with odourless white spirit. The paint is applied like spots in a random application and brushed in round circles or with straight lines from the top to the bottom on the vertical panels.
It's not my favourite process but when dried, the results are very interesting and subtles.
Some rainmarks and rustmarks appear very nicely and give slowly more strenght to this model. New parts are fitted on the front side of the hood as the lights. The body (globe ?) of the light is made with a pearl to decorate T-shirts (fixed with a iron), a hole is drilled for the electric wire and the light is a car light with a chrome circle. I really like the shape of these lights on the Caterpillar's crawlers and it gives some ''personnal style'', maybe a kind of ''froggy style'' ! Ther wera usually protected by a grill not represented on my project. Need some more good eyes to built this detail ....
Two more round extra lights will be added on the canopy at the back of the crawler.
Georges.
The entire chassis is done in the same tones. Even if the oil paints give a satin finish. The pigments will be applied at the end on the diorama. The oil paints have been applied after a coat of varnish on the layers of acrylic paints. No reaction to declare !
The track system will be painted and and weathered following the same process.
Georges
The light yellow (faded) area on the engine hood may need a little work to blend in. Aside from that I see little to criticize. -- Russ
@Russ. You're right that top part of the hood needs some more tone but I was expenting to make a constrast as this part could be a ''second hand part'' coming from another old caterpillar hood.
Maybe a little more paint to ajust the contrast.
Georges.
Hi Georges, this is a very interesting project, I like how it's going.
Quote from: Bill76 on February 04, 2013, 01:22:36 AM
On the other hand, the HS technique has to be improved a lot to control the final result. I notice that the AK Worn Effects / Heavy Chipping fluids are correctly laid on a acrylic paint. But on a mate varnished surface, these fluids make drops and when it dried, I'm not sure that the coat is regular even if I use the airbrush for very thin layers. I have some bad surprises ! So, if anyone can tell me the best way to apply these fluids on a varnished surface.
I've had this problem also, not just over varnish but any bottom coat. Sometimes when airbrushed the worn effects fluid tends to form little droplets or pools on the surface. When they dry, these are the areas that chip most easily, leaving these blob shaped chips in places you don't want them!
As Marc says you could use hairspray, I've started using it lately and it doesn't have that problem. All that stuff Marc mentioned is good advice. Also when I use the worn effects fluid now I thin it with soapy water to break the surface tension. You still need to spray it on very lightly and build it up in layers, but if you can make a nice smooth coat of just the right thickness, then the scratches you can achieve are amazing! It takes some practice and care though.
Looking forward to more mate!
@John : thanks for your advice and I will follow that for the next project.
The track system is paint as well and the oil paint process. The result is a bit glossy despite having put the oil paints on a piece of cartboard. The excess of oil was off but maybe not enough.
I use differents pigments and Fixer from Mig on the track system. This needs to dry for a while to give a realistic dry mud aspect. I add plaster to the mixture to increase the volume and to fill the space between the parts inside.
Several thin layers of light yellow tones are sprayed as the first step of the dust process. I use Tamiya colors (XF- 57 buff, XF-59 Desert yellow and XF-60 Dark yellow). After that, pigments and brush for a final aspect.
All the differents parts of the driver's area are glued and the levers are on their place. On the hood, the exhaust pipe has been painted in a rusty and smoky way thanks to the pigments.
I start the final assembly with the hoses, the hood is fitted on the chassis with the engine inside, the front grill as well.
Georges.
No longer looks like plastic.... -- Russ
@Russ : resin dust is far behind me now ...
Lot of work on the tracks. The plates are in white metal and this kit is from Scaledown models. After a good soapy cleaning operation, I lay a first coat of german panzer from Prince August with a spraycan.
I mask the ''rolling path'' before laying a coat of rust colors / set Lifecolor. I use the airspray and little sponges to create a random aspect. The an coat of AK fluid Heavy Chipping. A new coat of Yellow paint Foundation / Citadel at the end.
As the previous HS process, the paint is taken off with warm water and a brush. Quite a funny part !
I add some more tones with a hard brush to create rusty splatches on the plates. The effects are very subtles. I have done the same on the blade.
I seal this first acrylic paint process with thin layers of matt varnish to prevent from any reaction with the forthcoming enamel and oil paints operation.
I use the Africa Dust effects / AK to underline the 288 bolts and the shape of the 72 plates. Let it dry a couple of hours. Raw Amber oil paint is applied gently where needed before some Gun metal paint on the corners to simulate the wear metal. Brush ans sponge are used for this quick process.
The rear drive wheels are painted as well. I will use a paper pencil at the end on some parts in addition of the Gun metal paint.
The last step is to add mud / soil / dust effects : Tamiya paints as Buff and Yellow desert are pretty good. I paint with the airbrush at firts with a thin layer of dust, and I create some splatches with a brush with paint and the index finger.
The last work is to mount the tracks on the track system. Ready for the final assembly. Oil and grease will be added at the end on the diorama.
Georges.
Bill you have really turned a crappy model into something brilliant.
I cant wait to see this all together. Great work.
I like the dried mud and dirt on the tracks/wheel assemblies.
@Wesley : thanks for your comment. The end is coming soon. Even if the Wespe 's kits are usually rather better and uncommon, this one seems to be one of worth. Lack of inspiration or information ? I don't know.
@Ray : I like the dry aspect as well after following an Adam's Wilder report in a french modelling magazine. It has worked quite well.
The last part but not the least is the blade.
I follow the same painting process as the frame and the tracks. Same colors. I was just expecting a blade with more variation of colors and effects so I choose to add a n extra extention on the upper side of the blade.
Here are the pictures after the HS process before adding any kind of oil paint or anything else.
As the extra extension represents a second hand fitting, this metal sheet is really rusty and already paint in a random camo. For that, I paint it with rusty, gray and orange tones. All are acrylics from Prince August and Citadel applied with the airbrush and sponge. Some cuts of Tamiya mask give straight shpaes to the color.
Splashes of paint are made with an an hard brush and the index finger. It creates very nice and small stains of rust. Easy to do.
To give e new effect, I represent the welding operation. I apply mate black / Citadel to create the smoke / dust of the cutting torch. This is made with the airbrush carefully to make as straight as possible.
This paint is layed on both side of the extension.
The white chalk marks make a nice contrast with the black welding dust. I use a white pencil.
The last step before the dust operation is to paint the welding joint with a metallic acrylic paint.
Same paint to underline the corners of the blade, the U frame and the extension. Nice contrast between the old paint and the wear metal.
Georges
Oil paints as Raw Amber are used to contrast the empty spaces and holes. Graphite is applied gently on the corners, the hooks, handles and on the lower part of the blade.
Pigments are applied as well where needed and fixed with Fier from Mig Productions.
That's all for the blade.
Georges.
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Hello George,
first of all I would be happy if I could make color the way you are presenting here.
Only one thing I notice. When I see the sign of a bulldozer and comes fresh from the factory, then this is painted clean.
The moment the caterpillar to work the paint is sanded completely and utterly blank.
Of course, the rust bucket and completely uniform but only traces of ink from the moment it is no longer on the blade.
The chalk marks and "recent welds" are a nice touch. Those are not often modeled.
@ Thanks Ray and Helmut for comments.
Here are the pictures of the Caterpillar D4C finished. Glad that this project has an end. The diorama is under process for the moment and I will add pictures in a while.
@Ray : working on rust metal sheets is very interesting as representing welding / cutting torch marks as well. And it takes as much time as painting other colours but it gives more life to the model. You will see in a while why this detail is important ...
The left side is more worn that the right side and I use a bit more graphite.
The canopy is not definitively fitted on the Cat so it can be removed for a better view on the driving platform. And because I like dozers without cab / canopy as well.
Georges.
Georges,
you have done a wonderful job with that kit ................. nice work
Rather nice. -- Russ
Stunning!
Very nice.
Looking forward to the diorama for the Cat
@ Thanks guys.
Some last shots of the D4C without the canopy.
Two more.
The last one and the pictures of the dozer included in the kit.
Concerning the diorama, there will a short delay. I'm going to spent a few days in Paris for a professionnal farm show so I won't be able to follow the building process.
So I have to wait until the beginning of March.
Thanks a lot for following this project.
See you soon. Georges.
Nice painting job Georges!
Franck
@Franck : merci. Le salon du machinisme (SIMA) commençant ce week-end, je posterai les photos du diorama début mars. Si tu passes à Villepinte, j'aurai un diorama sur le stand Razol Hall 5, un John Deere 3120 avec un chisel que je suis entrain de terminer.
Georges.
Georges,
This has been a really neat SBS to read and watch your progress. Congratulations on the end result.
I do have to say, that I prefer the version without the canopy.
Thanks for all the effort to post and share this. I look forward to your next build.
Hello guys,
I'm back from Paris and glad to let back this crazy concrete jungle city ...
Thanks Marc for your comment. I prefer the ''raw version '' as well. This gives a real Caterpillar spirit.
So, the forthcoming pictures are for the diorama and I decide to built a quarry with a old wooden workshop.
The workbench is made with small boards of lime-tree because this wood is quite hard in the way that it does bend when moist and gives a very good aspect after work. I represent just the corner of the building (one side and a part of the front side).
First work : cutting different sizes of lenght and creating some cracks as old wood. Very easy job to do with a sharp cutter and I use a metallic brush. Quite long to do because the amount of pieces but it works.
The surface to be covered are about 15 cm x 10 cm (5,90 in x 3,93 in) and 10 cm x 15 cm.
I bought some Crakle Paints two years ago and feel happy to use them. I choose three colors : picket fence (white), antique linen (yellow) and peeled paint (green). I did some tests before to make sure of how it works and to know how thick / thin the coats of paint need to be applied.
It is very simply to lay these paints and the rough surface of the boards allow a very strong ''fitting''. Depending the thickness of the paint, the results are different especially when dry with the air dryer.
All the boards are painted with a random thickness to avoid an uniform look. I work about ten borads in the same time and accelerate the driyng process with the air dryer : it's nice to see the crackle paint working.
I let these pieces dry softly dor two days before following the paint.
I scratch with the cutter to simulate the paint off. Very long work but the chips remove very easily and the wood apprears underneath. As before, the paint is removed in a random way to create some variations.
To underline the crackles, I apply with a brush on the wood some Dark Wash from Mig and Streaking Grime from AK. I put in contact the brush and the wood and the fluids go around the crackles and it's wonderful to see how this Crackle Paint from Ranger is magic. These dark tones create a nice contrast between the light colors of paint and the old wood.
All the boards get this operation with variations depending of the fact that the boards near the ground will be darker than the upper ones.
Georges.
Those are coming out well Georges .
Look forward to seeing your next steps
Nice job on the tractor Georges, thanks for the good descriptions.
Good instructions. Thank you. -- Russ
@thanks guys.The instructions should be easier to explain if it was in french !
The base of the diorama is made with a thick board of wood (pressed wood chips board >> not plywood) and measures 200 x 290 x 19 millimeters (7,87 x 11,42 x 0,75 inche).
The border will be covered with a strap of plastic sheet as the back will be higher to cope with a stack of rocks / soil / gravels. That's the first time that I build a non-flat scene. Not the Alps for this time but it's a start !
The concrete foundation is resin plaster. I realize a formwork to design the triangle shape of this base. I fix some nails in the wood to make sure that the plaster sticks enough when dried.
I sculpt the plaster with a cutter and it's pretty cool to work this raw material. Lot of dust but nice details will appear in a while.
Concerning the workbench, I use 5 millimeters cardboard (foam between two sheets of paper, I don't know the name). The painted woodboards will be fixed on the walls with white glue in a ship lap shape.
The hole on the concrete base is for a electric wood post. Next step : adding sand, rocks, gravels drowned in a thick coat of a mix white glue / water (to avoid from a glossy finish).
Georges.
Well, still have to progress after seeing Chuck's pictures ... Chuck, you're still my guide !
So, the boards are fitted on the two sides with white glue. No difficulty for this.
The upper part of the front is covered with boards on both side. On the top, a board is in a ''flat position'' as the roofing. This one will be a bit damaged due to moisture and rain. Good contrast between the white paint and the rotten wood.
The post in the corner is higher than the front side to fit with a brand sign.
Two Texaco signs will be nailed on each side. The decals are waterside ones and the plates are made with metal. I just star the weathering operations with acrylic paints, and oil paints for fading the signs. I choose paints from the Lifecolor set ''Rust and Dust''. They're applied with sponge and a soft brush.
The Caterpillar sign is made with a 3 mm plastic sheet. The fitting bracket is made with Evergreen round and rectangular rods. It's about 1 centimer (0,39 inche). His shape looks like a white light sign that has turned to yellow. I print the decal on an ink watersilde paper, sealed under a coat of matt varnish to avoid from a water reaction and fixed with Micro Sol / Set fluids. Sealed again.
The square post is drilled and the sign will be added at the top of this post.
The electric post is from a resin kit of four posts I found some years ago. It represents a wood post and no more work to do on it. I start the painting with a Foundation brown paint / acrylic Citadel which covarage is fantastic.
Then different tones of light and dark brown are applied gently (50% paint / 50% water) in several thin layers with the airbrush. Crackes are underlined with different inks from Citadel.
The two insulators are in white and the frame is really rusty so I use the Lifecolor set as well.
Georges.
Blimey. That does look good.
@ Thanks Wesley.
I start to paint the ground and the concrete base with a lot of different tones of yellow and gray. After beeing sure that the gravels / sand / rocks are hardly glued, I apply a thin coat of matt black to give a good depth around the rocks to increase the shade effect. It's so easy to paint in black and so hard to paint in yellow after that operation. Not usually my favourite step in the diorama paint process !
For the concrete, I use Codex and Fortress gray from Citadel and two tones of white (Blanc cassé and ivoire os). Really funny airbrush job to underline all the joints and damaged concrete. Lot of contrast as well.
For the ground, I use only acrylics as Citadel and Tamiya : 6 tones of yellow, 2 gray and three white / light cream. Airbrush job at first with several layers of paint to create a maximum variation of colour.
The second step is to paint the rocks in gray with a brush and to drybrush the stack of rocks and all the rocks on this platform.
I was expecting a more desertic finish in dry conditions and finally, it looks like a scene after a rainy afternoon. I feel a bit disappointed by the result. So the workbench is going to be in a worth estate that it was supposed to !
Here's the pictures of the diorama on the first steps. In addition, oil paints as Raw amber will be applied to increase the holes in opposition with the light drybrush. One or two days will be useful to let it dry before adding dark washes / Mig productions especially for the concrete base.
Georges.
I don't like to make roofs especially when I need to use paper handkerchieves. Grrrrrr .... But it's a good way to simulate a roof covered which this king of dark colour roll of shingle.
So as usual, it's very hard to cut the tissue even with a new blade so I put the tissue between two sheets of ordinary paper and the cutting is really neat and no tear. I cut several stripes of handkerchief representing an one meter large strip.
The roof is made with a 3 millimeters cardboard and is covered with the stripes and damp into a mix of white glue and water to prevent from any glossy aspect. Bad surprise when the roof has bent during the drying process. But finally, it will give a nice and old roof collapsing.
It is painted with dark panzer gray and the middle is painted with light gray and I try to vary the tones to simulate the sunny discoloration. I add a recent repair to give some contrast.
The roof is definitively glued on the building. Some more details have to be adde as wood battens to keep the shingles on place, and a sealing tape will have to be fixed between the roof and the back of the front side of the building.
Georges.
The roof is finished and wood rods are nailed to fix the shingles rolls.
Weathering operations are added to simulate the rust around tha nails, and an aluminium sealing tape is fitted in the corner between the roog and the front wall.
The signs take their place on the wall and the Caterpillar is mounted on the corner post.
Georges.
The shed is glued on the scene as the post. Weathering operations are starting to ''link'' these new parts on the ground. So I'm gonna use the airbrush to add dust, moisture on the lower part of the building, moss. Some grass has to be added as well into the concrete holes. The roof has to get dirty by the way.
To get this project complete, I'm painting a stack of rusty iron sheets in the same way I did for the blade. Very funny part.
Georges.
Nice. Only problem is the images look over-saturated, at least on my end.
You may be right Ray because I have changed the lights, and I just need to ajust the settings on my camera.
Georges.
Hello guys,
The Caterpillar's project is on the last run and still need some ajustments to get it right. The roof needs dust and stains around the wood wall. The sealing tape is fitted with a special glue for aluminium or bare metal. I try bare metal but it was to soft so I cut aluminium stripes for that. That gives a nice contrast with a light aspect in a matt overall looking.
The raw metal sheets are glued as well and it's looks as it was supposed to be. I follow the same process as I did for the blade but let a very large place to the rust. The recent torch cuttings are overmarked with matt black acrylic paint and pigment ''Black Smoke'' from Mig Productions. Good contrast as well.
Lot od dust and sand are applied where needed as a few grass to colour the scene. A wood and lively pallet and a oil drum take place on the front side and will be completed with rusty chains.
Just need to put the Caterpillar D4C on the diorama for the last shots.
Georges.
Hello guys,
Here is the end of this project and the last final pictures by the way. Quite a long project because a lot of building work on the Caterpillar. It's been a good experience in modelling as well even if I'm not very fond of that. Still need some experience.
The diorama has been really funny to realize by using different stuff, rocks, sand, wood, metal, paper, cardboard. In fact, very natural. The way of painting has been interesting too.
I learn and practice a lot on painting but just one thing is missing, Sasha. The title has been chosen for her but my skill in painting figure needs some improvement for the moment. I was expecting to start the figure painting but can't start with her because the skin. I'm ok to paint clothes but not skin even if good paintors say that painting clothes and skin is the same. Maybe ... I have to practice so!
So, my sole regret is not to have Sasha on this display for the moment. I hope in a while. She will be nice with the D4C.
Thanks a lot for having followed this adventure and for comments.
The next project is gonna be far from this diorama. Less building, more painting.
Merci à tous et à bientôt. Georges
That turned out well!
Well done Georges And nicely realized!
I also prefer the dozer without cab ;)
Franck
Thanks Ray and Franck. I agree that the version without no cab is pretty colol. Anyway, the canopy has been fun to build and it's good to keep the hands on work !
Next project.
Georges.
Good work. One thing I notice, and it could be the photos, but the overall coloration of the diorama is rather vivid. If it's not the photos you might consider whether it would be worthwhile toning things down a little, maybe by doing something as simple as misting on a unifying color, like a dusty tan, with the airbrush. -- Russ
That came out nice Georges! Thanks for posting all the steps too.
Tahnks Chuck and Russ for comments. I choose "standard" setting on the camera so it's pretty good. The diorama needs some more dust tone and maybe the signs and the oil drum are too much colorful. I've been a bit lazy and impatient during the last run ! I will make some ajustment.
As the dozer is not glued on the scene, a soil / dust / mud "link" is missing to integrate it. Hmm, some more little work to do ...
Georges.