Westlake Publishing Forums

Hi all you folks out there,

I'm Volker from Germany and I'm going to show you my latest work. Like Helmut and Frithjof I've already written in the German forum buntbahn.de (http://buntbahn.de) (same user name). I hope my own English causes you less pain than Google's translation tools, so here it is in summary:

What you see here is the module I'm doing just for training. But I'm planning to build some modules or scenery of the "Plettenberger Kleinbahn", which ran until 1962. The railroad transported standard gauge wagons on special narrow gauge wagons to the industries in and around Plettenberg. Here you will find some information about it: http://www.sauerlaender-kleinbahn.de/vorbild/plettenberger-kleinbahn/ (http://www.sauerlaender-kleinbahn.de/vorbild/plettenberger-kleinbahn/).

With my exercise module I'm trying to find out what I can achieve with my resources before starting the "real thing". The module is not ready yet and has some shortcomings (more about that later), but nevertheless I want to introduce it to you. The situation I want to represent is a fictional railroad siding to a factory as it might have looked like in Plettenberg.

First some impressions and details:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0184.jpg&hash=dafbbbfb47482c11e5ce76568c3657630b9cc799)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0089.jpg&hash=1e4bd84306d6ce4c2cea0969f4d0f4d9aa853030)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0093-bearb.jpg&hash=a8e8e00fa18a44f043994be790a0d11acda0e802)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0107.jpg&hash=a958f4c60c656caeb7ce7f2fbeceab5873179a29)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0125.jpg&hash=7cb55606c141df6c9a66e5d5e6285e333c9f78b6)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0162.jpg&hash=685112e13ca83efba99ad53a74c30d13f6901e10)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0159.jpg&hash=f211d2ca583273bb86be819fe11e0d61f6a578d2)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0120.jpg&hash=866172c02dd1ba99971bfec57917289cfb72f37f)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0164.jpg&hash=c113ae4276eefc061e9ed5a7de241c65d6e91e16)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0121.jpg&hash=0ac8f4585f4143202b9a865ebf5dbfeaa019bcea)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0137.jpg&hash=49502a258496973e9399bc1ba87bddd1d6e8f5cd)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0148.jpg&hash=ee38290dc54ab70a5ef54c080b10244191350266)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0210.jpg&hash=bd9eb290c2eb669883648de12fd3f021b7deda6e)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_0228.jpg&hash=e97d8eb8455b86e2ddf4cf6ecb2be9937cf698fc)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_4258.JPG&hash=1e26c0aedb3007a0b3020daf4c3abc4d6ddb8c63)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_4259.JPG&hash=ae9f0bfad6a5aed3b473c09c3905356627ac7b49)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_4260.JPG&hash=255c69115b259b95305866099cefbb5a138c8bce)


Please forgive me the little forgery:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Plettenberg_Flohmarkt.jpg&hash=cfec7ee97454ec5dd9eef56e3ec2f94fa632f16d)

To be continued ...

Best wishes
Volker

No cheating, Volker. Everyone knows those are real streets, trains, and track and not models. -- ssuR

Welcome and thanks for posting this. Very nice streetwork. Great little details, and the fact it works makes it extra nice. Hope to see more!

So, how do you get your exercise on this exercise module?  Do you run up & down the street hoping to see a train?  Or dash back and forth across the street hoping not to get hit by a train?  So many possibilities!  ;D

Oh, and the cobblestones, trackwork, sewers and such all look quite good.  ;)

Cheers,
Dallas

really nice work.please it would be nice to know more details-eg,scale ,code of track ,detail items all that stuff.
kind regards kim

Definitely up to the usual buntbahn standard!!!!

Keep the photos coming - particularly as you progress into the full size design.

Welcome aboard! Very nice work, hard to imagine it's just a practice module!

That's some really nice looking cobblestone & detail.

Welcome looking forward to more of your work.

Jerry

Hallo Volker,

Welcome to the forum, and thank you for posting your wonderful project. Truly lovely work. The cobbles, curbs and sidewalks look and feel just like ones I have admired and stood on in person.  I look forward to seeing more of this build, and your other work/projects.

There is a google translation of the BUntbahn page with Volkers SBS, that answers many of the questions re. this project, at the link below:


http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Fmodellbau%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D10902%26postdays%3D0%26postorder%3Dasc%26start%3D0 (http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Fmodellbau%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D10902%26postdays%3D0%26postorder%3Dasc%26start%3D0)



Marc

Choke - Groan ........ THUD!

Quote from: Andi Little on November 09, 2012, 12:17:16 AM
Choke - Groan ........ THUD!

  Come on , Andi , it's not that bad !

Read all four pages of the buntbahn thread (thanks Marc). Nice to see such simple techniques giving such great results.

Even downloaded the sheet of drain covers!

Hey Russ, Chuck, Dallas, Kim, Ian, Ray, Jerry, Marc and Andi,

nice to be here now  :). Many thanks for your kind words!

The module is in scale 1:22.5 with 45 mm track gauge. The original was one meter gauge. It's my first project in that scale after pausing with modelling completely for over 25 years (back then in HO scale). The track used is LGB code 332 brass rail (and that's the main point for always being an practice module only). Obviously it's not necessary to post the buntbahn thread in english again ... Please ask me if there are questions left. Had to laugh out loud reading it in English ...

Maybe you're interested in my other threads about self built trackage http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Fmodellbau%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D10977 (http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Fmodellbau%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D10977) and the modification of a LGB wagon http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Fmodellbau%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D10887 (http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Fmodellbau%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D10887).

So I will go on with the current state: The lettering on the facade was still missing.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Ansicht.jpg&hash=fc568ec7cfb3d57935daa913f183dccfca635408)

I quickly discarded my original plan to cut the letters out of paper. You would see any inaccuracies and unclean edges in characters at once, especially since the original would have been made of metal with its smooth edges. I have therefore adopted Frithjofs grateful offer to mill the letters of brass.
I delivered a vector graphic of the desired font to Frithjof, which he imported into Inventor (or traced it) and then produced results in a route file. The following 7 images come from Frithjof – Thanks for that!

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715WIMAG_Schriftzug_1.jpg%2520%255B%2F%2520img%255D%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%253Cbr%2520%2F%253EThe%2520letters%2520should%2520be%2520mounted%2520at%2520a%2520distance%2520from%2520the%2520wall%2C%2520as%2520in%2520the%2520original%2520to%2520avoid%2520frost%2520damage.%2520So%2520the%2520letters%2520each%2520receive%25202-3%2520bars%2C%2520which%2520are%2520used%2520for%2520assembling%2520and%2520keeping%2520the%2520actual%2520distance%2520to%2520the%2520wall.%2520The%2520additional%2520spacers%2520you%2520see%2520here%2520we%2520didn%27t%2520actually%2520need.%2520Frithjof%2520had%2520an%2520idea%2520for%2520a%2520simpler%2520solution.%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%255BImg%255Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715WIMAG_Montage001.jpg&hash=d1dfd9cb7355d9d4c5c893a0fc0b001dd4f548a4)

To assemble the letters exactly on the building later, a jig was added.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715WIMAG_Montage06.jpg&hash=8e7cc65ca5664dec8cc3df3430788ef88c6d6c45)

Next step on the milling machine:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715WIMAG_gefraest_01.jpg&hash=74dfb50271320afda120631af30cb02121ded285)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715WIMAG_gefraest_02.jpg&hash=a300ddcaa1a990f8814c9a8b9cad13ee1867a88f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715WIMAG_gefraest_03.jpg&hash=5a2595e83bf7f9c49431f11541af6dea5f72db98)

Here you can see the pins soldered to the browned letters and the jig.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715WIMAG_Montage_07.jpg&hash=39cc0ddcbe3927803865877f1ce92f0336aba076)

We centered the jig on the wall and drilled holes of 1.5 and 1mm diameter. A drill inserted into the first borehole prevents unintentional shifting during the further work.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5095.JPG&hash=301a2e1120be0171743b13b68d8f36d4d1d9d7c5)

To carry out the distance to the wall, we have merely placed two brass strips, ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5097.JPG&hash=d4a49e3b294ed8934565147fad783a4b35b1fa65)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5098.JPG&hash=56fef002e36bf73ff7ce67ee99cc3ce5974a2e9e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5099.JPG&hash=0e553df09566fbae1061db2229d56a0470b2ae2f)

... which could be taken away afterwards and then had an equal distance of all the letters. The letters also sit quite firmly without glue, but as a precaution I fixed them with a bit of thinned wood glue.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5108.JPG&hash=5588cfa1b061029b510895a93a8490f1d03ede49)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5103.JPG&hash=6fbf9aff0369e16bf7e545278b831a2592a757ae)

Volker

Welcome - this is just what we need a fresh bit of inspiration before we all end up in "the great modelling slump" lovely bit of modelling superb attention to detail -just keep it flowing
Barney

Adequate. -- Russ

Welcome Volker,  very nice. Your masonry coloring is spot on.

Lovely stonework!

Can you get "finescale" wheels for that scale/gauge now?

Best, Pete.

Hi Russ, Pete and Chester,

the masonry should look like travertine which was used around 1920 for somewhat prestigious buildings.

Do we get finescale wheelsets for meter gauge in 1:22.5? Not really. I will have to make or adapt them myself. The Plettenberger Kleinbahn had another wheel and flange profile (similar to streetcars), that doesn't fit the regular wheel standards. You have some nice wheelsets in the States (by Gary Raymond i think). For my exercise practice drill tutorial training module it doesn't matter. As written in the German posts, even Playmobil (or everything else in G) runs on it  ::)

Best wishes
Volker

Hi Volker,

welcome from me here to take this opportunity.
As I wrote in the BBF, in my view for a long time no longer practice facility, but as decisive.

Both Gary Raymond (Gary Raymond Metal Wheels) and Gary Watkins (Sierra Valley Enterprises) are personal friends and do make wheels close to finescale standards. Both have an exaggerated fillet to minimize a slightly oversize flange and to provide better rolling qualities. Gary Raymond makes 1:32n3 wheelsets with 24 inch diameter wheels to exact (e.g. "AAR") standards and nobody bought them so he backed off trying the same thing for the larger scales.

The NMRA has spent more than decade dragging its feet on large scale wheel standards and has hindered manufacturers' attempts to push the hobby forward. I was on the original standards committee and quit the NMRA in disgust. Gary Raymond still wages battle with them.

The current Modelers' Annual, now in the mail and soon available online, includes an article by Bob Uniack on cast resin freight cars in three scales (1:32, 1:29, 1:20.3). All roll on Gary Raymond wheelsets and, if you want to evaluate their appearance, the photos show them clearly.

Russ

Hi Helmut and Russ,

just a short excursion to the "real thing":

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5111.JPG&hash=483fda61ce6a83058adf946f42d6693120e1ab4b)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5119.JPG&hash=1291233ea284672900fe3941f865c5dd0bbe4c3a)

Steel sleeper: me by prototyping. Rail: Miha (=Llagas Creek Code 250) by Helmut, who milled down the rail foot/base (I don't know what it is in English) to scale (thanks Helmut!)

I got some original plans of Plettenberg railroad pointwork that I'm going to recreate to scale; got some poor quality pics only. Please don't mind the Peco rails: The point will be in street level. You will only see the surface.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4966.JPG&hash=7c244c2211a875abc9285a2c8bd5f38d2f4fda65)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4969.JPG&hash=6edec315ba74b5243b17b0a989055c302984e316)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4983.JPG&hash=fca577db5b65c5fd28ef59bcda502cc0f48f899e)

Even Gary Raymonds (nearly perfect) wheels don't run over that. I've got some here ... Okay, I should have told you.

Volker

Quote from: finescalerr on November 10, 2012, 12:09:42 PM
The NMRA has spent more than decade dragging its feet on large scale wheel standards and has hindered manufacturers' attempts to push the hobby forward. I was on the original standards committee and quit the NMRA in disgust. Gary Raymond still wages battle with them.

I doesn't help matters that a lot of folks in "large scale" get their lynching ropes out every time someone evens mentions "standards".

I enjoy my large scale modelling in 7/8ths and I have to admit, setting arbitrary standards is a minefield only because the prototype was as diverse. Only in the UK could you get track gauges of 1 ft 11-1/2 ins and the guys around the corner were using 2 ft 3 ins!!!! Each original railway was built by individual committees who worked in isolation it seemed. Even the major rolling stock manufacturers in the 1800s couldn't break that with off-the-shelf items (which must have been cheaper to buy).

I like the quirkiness - but I get frustrated with the lack of precision (scale) wheels which appear to be coarse so they cope with the diversity of track from Peco to LGB and everything else in between. Then there is the coupling question which is never going to be satisfactory because the prototype used different ideas and for scale appearance you need to have something remotely the same on the model. All that considered it is a wonderful scale to work in and lends itself to this style of incredible detail. It gets to be that any scale smaller than 1:43 is too small!!!

I hope I did get you right, but when I wrote of "regular wheel standards" I meant the existing standards of the real German meter gauge - not modelling standards. Why should scale modelling stop at rails and wheels?

Back to the brass rails. Next step is the doorman building. This time I used a layer of wood fiber hardboard and glued 5 mm Styrodur (hard foam?)  inside and outside 3mm Styrodur "travertine" disks on it. The ceiling was made of several layers of Styrodur.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5062.JPG&hash=ea26acf29724387223d07c98b12fa5cde77bb1bd)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5063.JPG&hash=564e5506014524315ccd6d9425402832388b4f8d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5065.JPG&hash=59c78481bfab2df6ef6ddb0fcb6d592793bb2507)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5069.JPG&hash=ea9b883b6b0d7be973571386171d78b65727fc84)

The doorman building gets a metal transom window. The doorman has to watch both the actual access and the factory gates for rail and truck service. After trying in brass I decided to use polystyrene: angel section 2x2 mm and t-sections 1,5 x 1,5 mm. I glued that together on the drawing and then inserted windows of Vivak. The glue has to be well seasoned. The four-digit zipcodes were changed to five-digit ones in 1993.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5120.JPG&hash=46ce6eb51e8b1f89d1b674d37e9d1faf0d604959)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5121.JPG&hash=9774ddb377a4159412b3dd054256128367645934)

On one disc there was a small adhesive edge. So I tried to weather the disks with thinned wood glue, that I wiped away and replaced carfully with a brush while drying.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5128.JPG&hash=bba05819ab3c84ec867590361f8a59cf7017dbf5)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5130.JPG&hash=40da50a1730615c0a89c64ac8f51f4f0919b51fb)

The abutting edges and thickening of the individual struts get smaller blossomed rust later on. And a view from the inside. The columns on the window frames have to be closed ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5133.JPG&hash=f0ce94620fef7eb522e8f23b782de99189250bfd)

The other window is composed of several layers of wood. From the outside, it starts with a circumferential narrow frame, the actual window frame, the bottom bar is designed to be thicker and slightly bevelled. The whole rests on a broader basis, which represents the actual window frame. Then a screen of Vivak is glued inside the circular window frame. A thin veneer strip is applied, so you do not see the raw edge of Vivak.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5136-b.jpg&hash=c9dd32c5238b76dc59993bcf64c363caab821785)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5134-b.jpg&hash=0235a5e7baa30cb371a1f80e39c0b1a9b5f211fb)

The window handle is formed from wire and the aperture of a metal piece. This was once the rail connector of an old-H0 Piko hollow track, which has already unilaterally a nice rounding.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5135-b.jpg&hash=2ae97043d10d9991ebb8c7d2b1ceb3cdd631b098)

Meanwhile, the wooden window has found its place, and the building survived the first dirt rain.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5140-b.jpg&hash=a59c1b7e16b7fa6eea8e05806ef68947ba86c9bc)

Next is the roof covering. The doorman building gets a visible drainpipe that hides the subsequent transition to the factory wall. This substructure and gutter obtain the necessary square neckline.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5142web.jpg&hash=6b021d01d0bf74e80f8468235ef441c66108949b)

Square? Wait a minute. Downpipes are still round. To square the circle does not do much: 5 mm brass tube, about 1 mm copper wire and a piece of 8 mm rectangular tube. The wire is placed around the circular pipe and fixed by an underlying bracket. The rectangular tube is put on top of it and then is connected with generous solder insert.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5143web.jpg&hash=59f7d130632c1a6936c96ae61ef6e746bd7f6c9e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5144web.jpg&hash=95559af0656c21322a8aa19f3f6408546f052ebf)

Now take it to the drill. A steel axle clamped in a vise serves as a guide. I used a file and sandpaper to form it on the running drill. At the bottom of the funnel end, I tried to stab a groove to represent the transition from the hopper to the pipe, which would be plugged into the prototype. I will have to do a bit more on it with the jigsaw.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5146web.jpg&hash=b4aaa7448d398c2db1810eaf18b499f9abe3e804)

Now it's waiting to be installed.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5149web.jpg&hash=18d531376350aa7b6ace651c051a19fec0bf02bb)

But only when the clamps are attached. Arising from self-adhesive copper foil. The eyebolts I'll try again to get them fine. The used 0,5-wire seems to be to thick.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5150web.jpg&hash=d18c7487e245a44f32aa704a19b02cdae5abb90f)

Best wishes
Volker

great lookin modeling

Nice looking Guard's Shack. 

How did you make the trolly rail?  What did you use to make the channel which defines the flangeway?

The rail I've shown here is soldered Peco Code 250 and brass angle section 3 x 3 mm (0.12'' x 0.12'') with 0,5 mm (0.02'') wall thickness. The angle section fits perfect to the rail head to get a 1,8 mm (0.07'') wide flangeway.

Meanwhile, the downpipe has found his niche.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5194-b.jpg&hash=b96706c0dd578831cdee9b112b0fd87ab7e3406d)

And again a little closer.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5198-b.jpg&hash=b69bd84731d2fa9d801f2a9f8784ce0d5fb8a61e)

Frithjof was kind enough to mill me the clamps of 1.5 mm (0.06'') brass, the thickness is 0.2 mm (0.007874''). Works better than the self-adhesive copper foil, which starts deforming when heated for tinning. The real challenge, then, was the replica of the eyebolts. Before that I made the cast iron pipe end of some plastics.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5180-b.jpg&hash=4e0e5abbf5e9c9f302f3de7683ed36f63883f436)

On the drill revised and painted it looks like this.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5182-b.jpg&hash=cb07b881a93744a2d636f645d6702c4b0ac53d3f)

The eyebolts arose from 0.3 mm (0.011811'') wire I found in the form of carbon brush coil springs in the junk box. The eyes should now be as small as possible. This Frithjofs tip: you simply wrap the wire around another bend it once gone through 90 ° and cut off at the appropriate place (where the wire meets itself again). For the latter, I used a nail clipper. So much for theory. In fact, the 0.3 mm wire is (even as spring wire!) far too lenient than that you could wrap it. So I clamped a sharp scriber in the vice and a small piece have had to survive. There you can easily wrap the wire around. The clamps were then cannulated for the eyebolts to 0.3 mm, the tabs to be shortened and rounded, and on the rear wall for receiving the holder yet 0.8 mm (0.031496'') holes drilled. The whole was then plated preassembled.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5190-b.jpg&hash=069dd8f435e98a6c63e06f688236bf9630444414)

Best wishes
Volker

Very nice!

Meticulous attention to detail. Satisfactory. -- Russ

I added a gate to the gatehouse:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5239b.jpg&hash=4bbd4a3aa195191f6080d12da2977fb9351430d4)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5235b.jpg&hash=e6fae678b9351ab6cffe98dd21e0e33894bccd6a)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5236b.jpg&hash=ded708dcd5a908c383a42f8c72b7f71928b79740)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5237b.jpg&hash=64b0a74a3a4924001781a56c494de6c07aaee252)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5238b.jpg&hash=90f53b76737b053139886ce3cbfa1134a3ac2374)

After I had decided on a welded construction, I started with a full-scale drawing, where I could place the surrounding frame of polystyrene 2.5 x 3 mm. (0.094488'' x 0.11811'') The even hole spacing I received by using a perforated plate with 4 holes that I've moved farther center starting each time until I arrived at the border.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5199b.jpg&hash=5a8805119e9f8709b199b5faddd2944c2d5901b1)

The hinges are consisting of a brass plate, brass angle section, two brass screws imitations and rounded 0.5 mm (0.019685'') wires.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5203b.jpg&hash=1dff48de4a157ec3ec7cc55c9648f79eb6d7afd7)

The chatter on the angle sections and the tinning are somewhat fierce ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5202b.jpg&hash=4ddd60968dd6d84cb09746609149dc000c56c675)

... but after burnishing no longer so.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5206b.jpg&hash=d8a2a428a32f268921c1bf89131adcb5d4ee3a5c)

A bolt came at that. Ingredients: 1 mm (0.03937'') iron wire, some nickel silver and brass angle section. The slotted member is brazed to the wire.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5208b.jpg&hash=3e090e13a3c249b09f029ff8ad278f1728aaea26)

The gate then got a paint with white gloss paint from a spray can. The hinge bracket and the stop I have left black. I think another gate had hung there before. Then I aged the gate with very dilute water and emulsion paints. Meanwhile I reduced the rust beneath the bolt; it's a bit too much as seen here.

Phew!!! Love your work.

Beautiful fabrication!

Holy cow, the tiny hinges and bolt are amazing!

Fantastic detail!  Especially like that little bolt ... a common, ordinary little thing that's seldom modeled ... captured beautifully!  Notched design of the gate is another very nice touch.  -- Dallas

I agree with what the others have said.

Just lovely. Great eye for details that are so often missed, or ignored.

Overall fantastic  :o!

Anders

I was looking for something else, and ran across this photo I took in Berlin. Thought it maybe could be of interest/use.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages33.fotki.com%2Fv1139%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934747%2FDSCN5351-vi.jpg&hash=28a6e57010346155c6e80826f07a045dc4d4fbe0)

Many thanks for all your motivating words, although compared to a lot of really great scale modelling on this forum, for example Marty's great power hacksaw, not to mention Chuck or Marc or a lot of others, I feel that my work is more like tinkering around.

I finished work on another gate for cars that will be placed between the administration building and the gatehouse.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5255b.jpg&hash=0521cf2c6947803a97fee4454a71868881b9f88e)

The construction is similar to the one at the gatehouse. Only the loaded plates are created from cardboard and not from PS. And I'll show you some "prototyping for the poor" after getting you bored with a few pictures of latch, hook catch and run-up support.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5249b.jpg&hash=53fc961c3043f697249e22ec5f542f8689cd14d2)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5250b.jpg&hash=a3aa387f4b1669b82f00e17001c220a7906c7210)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5251b.jpg&hash=1ba955e4d6c73d477d23652d89c8f94a30461a1a)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5252b.jpg&hash=3e8148ff2a78c7c235bf0018558424087b292f2f)

And that's my "prototyping for the poor". The layer thickness is 2 mm and the layers are joined and sealed with superglue. And it's all handwork. ;)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5244b.jpg&hash=e8d91418a6e161aa2fec2f3109a17d93096487f8)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5245b.jpg&hash=7408abeadf6c84ab40359c85bc97d8d4513db60d)

File and sandpaper then take the final shape. No, seriously: it's a fast and cheap method for little detailed parts with mostly straight faces.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5246b.jpg&hash=5b422368e577c342fbc051eb913af4b9c0f5e873)

Here's another one combined with an etched cover (to be used after finishing my exercises).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5220b.jpg&hash=e38ec560003ef7b151f7289ecaefa3d71c40d05d)

This shows the future position of the gate ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5258b.jpg&hash=d8cb8338f254808dfb25b7c7542e81ba223ea829)

... and the following pictures show harmful effects of industrial precipitation.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5259b.jpg&hash=5b122063ab0e73bcfbfd2b0db6e04d4edb843398)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5261b.jpg&hash=7255b86f0552a8f4f53679ff288e69039e70b591)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5262b.jpg&hash=1ba75a2d3aa5037e2c3558e7b255a1cd12b984f8)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5263b.jpg&hash=dbdd1a21f59b40c9f91bae043b1e68aa58ffbd7e)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5265b.jpg&hash=4a27f063d5c1e8cbe6963ce779ecdc5c97a741cb)

Unfortunately, I did not seal the loaded plates in the lower door area with superglue. Since weathering the doors are a bit warped ...

Marc, thank's for the picture. It shows the common manhole cover in Germany. Frithjof once milled them in brass (to be seen here: http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?p=277403#277403 (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?p=277403#277403)). By the way: how did you do the growth?  ;)

I've done some drains and covers as etched parts to be combined with laser cut cardboard.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5209b.jpg&hash=0a89e26993994a73972ea4c1232300710b44bb21)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5222b.jpg&hash=ca3df19bf608dc9cc5c7ea9f165894fb72b9f53c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5225b.jpg&hash=2f215e0be368b3628898701bec26b1dd9b809b7e)

Sorry for the bad quality of some pics. I'm afraid I'll have to break up with my camera soon.

Best wishes
Volker

Fantastic details again Volker! Looks absoloutley real  :o! The two buildings are great too!

Anders

I agree with Anders. Thanks for showing us how you are going about fabricating them. Nicely done, with great results.

Awesome Volker! Details look very realistic!

Franck

Thanks Anders, Marc and Franck. I can't show you something new from my model at the time. But for those interested in my pattern "Plettenberger Kleinbahn": Occasionally I found some movies, which fortunately survived.

http://old-plettenberg.com/kleinbahn/videoplayer.htm (http://old-plettenberg.com/kleinbahn/videoplayer.htm)

http://plettenberg.us/1960_1963.htm (http://plettenberg.us/1960_1963.htm)

http://plettenberg.us/kleinbahn.htm (http://plettenberg.us/kleinbahn.htm)

All Links from http://plettenberg.us/ (http://plettenberg.us/)

Volker

Beautiful work there. The construction is so nice, and so close to the prototype, its a pleasure to view.

You really have my attention with the man-hole covers and other street panels. Are any of these available for sale?

Hi Narayan,

your streetwork, esp. the tarmac, is very nice too. I planned to tar parts of my cobblestone; maybe I'll try it the way you did: But what is Elmer's Glue?

The parts are not regularly for sale. Yet. But I made some more than necessary. So: What cover(s) do you need?

Thanks so much. I apprecdiate it. Elmer's white glue is a PVA emulsion glue, the same as Aquadhere in Australia, Vinavil in Italy, Evo-stik Evo-Bond PVA in the UK. It starts off as a milky white liquid that is watersoluble, and as it dries the emulsion micelles join to make a clear water insoluble film.

I particularly like the waffle pattern piece and the manhole cover with the K in the centre. Perhaps we could work out a trade and I could send you a couple of these if you ever want to make a diorama based in the North East of the US.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages33.fotki.com%2Fv1135%2Fphotos%2F6%2F698387%2F5762194%2FIMG_0846-vi.jpg&hash=4971277bfeb85e692211bf203effdcfc8d0f1ae8)

Elmer's Glue, ist ein Weisleim, der klaar trocknet. .....Ich glaube ihr nennt es "Ponal"....oder es gibt viellecht von UHU sowas.

Thanks, Marc! I thought of this but wasn't sure ... In Germany it's called Weißleim. Ponal is the most popular brand.

Narayan, I don't plan such a diorama, but we will surely agree on a deal. More via pm, okay?

A lot of usual German buildings were equipped with air-raid shelters in WWII. Sometimes existing cellars in massive buildings were simply stregthened with splinter shields at the cellar windows and entrances and an emergency exit was added. Here is an example from the city of Mainz. These ones must have been installed at the later wartime, because the hatches seem to be raw metal plates. Maybe the original parts weren't available anymore. Please note the bullet holes.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5125.JPG&hash=cfb3d09da2a2732e18e8405c19b5bb778061dea4)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5126.JPG&hash=0b0933c74abb57905cb7ab53df7ca86b0887d677)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5124.JPG&hash=dffa3e7d8f9dc6e7a69a1be2878114a96d319581)


I used a scale drawing on 2 mm (0.07874'') cardboard, then cut it with a blade to shape, drenched it with super glue and then filed it. The hinges are made of 0.5 mm (0.019685'') polystyrene strips and 1.5 mm (0.059055'') tubing (thanks to the dealer that it wasn't visible in the store that it is NOT a PS and would not stick with the usual suspects  >:(), some wire and glue.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5268b.jpg&hash=15e0097bf378c5fb79513d350b52d2d2ae93b031)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5270b.jpg&hash=0473d6547f07aa7ee92aa828f4a10fc6b37c1243)


And that's what it looks like installed. I will later on add some plaster to the rear frame, which sticks in the wall, not in front of it.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5272b.jpg&hash=434cad660569e0270e4f43a50de282658c080000)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5273b.jpg&hash=ea89efc5a98a06df146a83c51f8288dd8bd77e2d)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5277b.jpg&hash=ef773242143cd43ba3b8aa32a873f4a506028781)


I won't show bullet holes; otherwise the rest of the building would not be in this state in 1950/60.

The buildings had special signs to indicate the shelter position and entrance. Some of the signs were made using patterns, some partly free hand (or both) applied with fluorescent white color. These labels and arrows are visible to date on many buildings, that haven't been renovated since WWII. It's no surprise that the label was regulated by decree? Not to me. "NA" means emergency exit (NOTAUSGANG), "LSR" bomb shelter (LUFTSCHUTZRAUM).


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5306b.jpg&hash=003a5ccc0e7ad416d0a6a416f51741dfae6897f4)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5309b.jpg&hash=123724fdea35130802c6a8c71fe58efaeaff7c5e)


First, I printed the required character with the appropriate font type and size for prototype photos which I found on google (and therefore cannot be shown here?) on photo paper. Since the letters were large enough and the prototype photos often show unclean captions (translation from Google: "dirty magazines"  :P), I could then cut out as needed with various fine cutter blades.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5301b.jpg&hash=a79764a873905f705073eaa505634dafd7fa8686)


I made the resulting template a bit durable with superglue and placed it at the desired location.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5302.jpg&hash=db92627a583a75f9eac768162cd66633b96244ae)


Then I used a soft lustreless dull bristle brush and dabbed opaque white into the template. It may only be applied to the bristle tips easily with almost dry paint.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5303b.jpg&hash=ce76dd981d5dcd9614cfdb8989b2c6ce8d699a9b)


So it looks like this:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5304b.jpg&hash=57fcd429c03930479f940a69fac368dbbad51225)


The arrow is still missing? There it is.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5305b.jpg&hash=4333d769cb42cd80b8389c328a5078a4611b34a8)


Best wishes
Volker

Hello Volker I have just finished going through your thread. Stunning! it is unfortunate that I had not seen this thread before I scribbled all over my model, or I would not have bothered. because now I have to start all over.

Michael

Searching a wall for my factory I stumbled over this one:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5368bx.jpg&hash=c2da5cf0b4054fdca1ffba3ab50ba87d5e6dd3b3)

Oh dear ::)!


Best wishes
Volker

I forgot - no cheating.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5362b.jpg&hash=e6a7b2deae53ad1e88a1b67f02393573ca7af7ca)


Well, I needed something to fix the railway gate to.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5374b.jpg&hash=8242b04f703a0fbda152ad53bfc60e1e89f77d03)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5378b.jpg&hash=7bb015f68e64890593de3b6a34b8af784aa254e1)

The wall is attached to the gatehouse. The niche is the space for the downspout.

Best wishes

Volker

Not bad. -- Russ

Volker, it looks like you are getting the hang of this model-making caper! ;D

Michael

Nice stuff! I like the textures on the wall.

Thanks Russ, Michael and Ray for your comments. I really wasn't sure if it was looking realistic enough for your inexorable eyes  ;). Meanwhile I combined the parts. As you can see the gate's colour at the gatehouse changed to the same grey as the other gates. Helmut suggested that to me and I think he was right. This is the street side view.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5414b.jpg&hash=8cf966f9a3ebca4b92942d5e75bad8793934810e)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5412b.jpg&hash=0d078375a05b86637defe9d3a7c7692a8efce414)


... and this the factory side view.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5411b.jpg&hash=5bfcdec925ee5a848f546e4afb89f4f957bd0b88)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5410b.jpg&hash=8395e4aa3c5ec4e8b882dcea08072c71dec0d773)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5382b.jpg&hash=388f69e08dea2e3d946556899c2ba2bd5cc76475)


I'm not too happy with the bordered blotches at the gate post (and at parts of the gate) - at least I know what I've done wrong. Although it's a water based colour it's not possible to remove it without damage to the rest of the weathering. Does it look believable nonetheless?

The walls and gates are fixed to the ground. I don't know yet what to do with the buildings, at least with the big one. It would be nice to have them removable for transportation issues but I'm afraid one will always see that it is removable and this is going to destroy illusion. Do you have any advice for me?


Best wishes
Volker

If the finished diorama fits the back seat of your car you can leave the larger building in place? It would look good with an interior.

If you find some of the finish too "blotchy", maybe you could use an airbrush or some weathering powders (or both) to blend things together. It's certainly not too late. -- Russ

I just so thoroughly enjoy watching and seeing every step and bit of progress on this project. The attention and reproduction of simple every day details, that are often so easily overlooked, yet absolutely make the scene, is wonderful, and inspiring. It is something that really requires one to see their surroundings...and you have a real knack for it. I really do get a huge smile whenever I see a new post. It is truly inspiring to me.  Thank you for continuing to post your progress.

I know it is not yet done, but I agree with Russ that that it could at some point benefit from soe sort of "unifying" finish...and that doesn't mean a wash over everything...but for example similar shades of dust or grime across/on a number of the horizontal surfaces and details where it would build up, or when the sidewalks are done....bits of breen (grass/weeds/moss/lichen) in nooks, cracks and crannies....maybe even sim. varied tones of dirt or grime splatter along the bottom of walls where the rain has caused it to build up...even things like leaves and dirt in areas in the roof gutter and then some along the walls or gutter.

Wow!  More-n-more depth to the scene each time ... new "major" elements and new nutty little details!  ;D  Sure is shaping up nicely, and as Marc said quite a pleasure to watch the progress along the way.  -- Dallas

Ian,

I'm quite sure you meant something like that  ;):

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5468b.jpg&hash=c19c083b168894560ab9b04b55a175ee646e82c1)

This is going to be the desk for the janitor. Please forget about the picture quality; i'm happy to have at least this one from building it ...
I'm going to add more interior when the entire surrounding on the module is finished. And to think that it all started out as some little exercise ...  ::). The module would fit in my car with buildings. If I fix them (and I guess I'll do it) I have to built an additional wooden frame or box for protection during transport.

Russ,

I was only thinking of the visible edges of the drops at the gate post arising from drying - if one forgets to blur them before they are completely dry ... I will give the pigments a try when I start the finishing.

Marc,

thanks again for your comments. It really feels good not only to receive valuable hints but also to entertain you (I'm thinking about you grinning). There will be a final finishing when everything is assembled, in the end, so to say. But until then I'm dealing with a few other elements first. Some weeks ago I didn't know what material the gate and wall would be and what it would look like - and so it is now with the few free spaces left. But I'm cornering the topic. Anyways, it's interesting that your suggestions match with my ideas ... okay, nobody's gonna believe me that now. Thank's for your motivating words: You're absolutely right, it's not too bad to have an idea of what's going on around you. For me it's kind of fun to think about and then try to model those tiny parts that at first are uninteresting in itself to me but simply belong to the scene.

Dallas,

thanks for your words and attention, too - and I'm not going to disappoint you: This is the curved cobblestone of red quartzite (what the heck is Segmentbogenpflaster in English?) at the companies driveway.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5454b.jpg&hash=7ff67556fcda657e223faa4b444ad3fdeefb306b)

This is the mastic asphalt at the gatehouse's passageway.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5459b.jpg&hash=43b078c56ebad784159481eaa2e32338ab658af1)

Please excuse the sloppy work.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5456b.jpg&hash=2a950ef5ba15bb585e868e2b7d46fea18e5c41d5)


Volker

Quote from: Hydrostat on February 01, 2013, 01:08:31 PM
This is the curved cobblestone of red quartzite (what the heck is Segmentbogenpflaster in English?) at the companies driveway.

Segmental arch pavements ... sectional arch stones ... arched stone sections ... arched sectional stones, etc ...

Basically, Segmentbogenpflaster = "curved cobblestone" just as you started to say!  ;D 

And it looks darn good.  8)  -- Dallas

I particlarly like the stone in the middle , for the gate anchor.

What did you sue to make the asphalt? Looks good. Is this Narayan's method?

Marc

Dallas,

thanks for your translation. Nice to hear that you like it.

Marc,

its a similar method to Narayan's but I used other materials. Some voice is whispering in my ear and urges me to say: I'll write about it in detail in the next Modelers' Annual.

For lack of an air brush I painted my little desk with Revell colour. Did I mention that I could have tared it with a similar result? It took quite a long time to get this mess away again ... at least so far that it's re-usable.

Volker

My friend Frithjof gave to me some cast and milled brass parts he designed for his Feldbahnmodule with ship (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1424.0). Thank you very much, Frithjof!

There are a metal lampshade, a light switch, a socket, a distribution box and cable clamps.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5474b.jpg&hash=35f3b28b9a625251ea7e7369b7f635bd1d326409)

That's what it looks like installed after some treatment and kitbashing:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5485b.jpg&hash=a67e3613e8b86dd895c7d9cb4f68554ebfe3035c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5494b.jpg&hash=8e82247a6edad7f5bd1235402259b9c90385ae15)

I added a run up catch for the rail gate and tried to make some green stuff. I find it very difficult to create realistic grass and trees and so on. There's a more natural coloring for the birch offspring to come and perhaps some more leaves. I'm not too happy with the fine grass that simply looks like fibers, especially at the run up catch. Please tell me what you think about it. I would be happy to get some suggestions and opinions.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5502b.jpg&hash=c5f9b1d92ac49edac01cfb5bd975b19e46777f5f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5515b.jpg&hash=cb32c928189b7e7d22a5b4abd5ca164ffb8878a0)

Volker

Wonderful details Volker.

Nice castings!

The greenery looks good, especially the sapling.

Thanks nalmeida and Ray! I'm not too happy with the greenery yet and tried something else:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5531b.jpg&hash=2b9da6be6c26e0df77399d64533a9869ccd10313)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5535b.jpg&hash=c0bcf0381c463f0f6389fd68404806b6791a5869)

The "Exercise Training Drill Tutorial Module" will be shown this year in May in Schenklengsfeld / Germany (2013-05-09 until 2013-05-12). There's a meeting of the gauge II guys. I had to build a small extension to get their standardized module edge with rectangular rails. I know: The following doesn't fit the forum's standards at all. Just blame it to my need to talk ::).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5551b.jpg&hash=abf133d14386e475dce75d2260569e86aa697ec0)

I had to build another framing.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5544b.jpg&hash=93fc2f9c140857fa2e4281a69d17d27386f0bbdd)

The strutting was filled with Styrodur and track laying could begin.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5549b.jpg&hash=7d67a05e2d545a41c155d16eb7ab33b4a635d105)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5546b.jpg&hash=9941cb7eccd2d046b5b635b4d70e8fa65a3e9b22)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5556b.jpg&hash=81e6a4830fb01ff785d4027ee0d3cef1f87b5d0f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5584b.jpg&hash=8c96a9b2166356ee650a57c7928829ee705981bf)


Volker

Everything looks good, and especially the bush. -- Russ

Holy crap!  (That's a meaningless but very favorable expression here) ... You've got every different sort of texture imaginable ... and they are all playing so nicely together.  Good stuff.  -- Dallas

Thanks, Russ and Dallas!

Meanwhile I'd hit the road again. Please don't mind the sideway in the background. It's just the substructure.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5714b.jpg&hash=22f9bcc496785a9e268be9602b8363b5320d9331)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5720b.jpg&hash=3b32fe17a854401b59062515549ecd4ecdb4c141)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5724b.jpg&hash=4892d668aca1bddb2bff8b97a9d8b9e023d5acdd)

And some close-ups:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5728b.jpg&hash=52055b62f8f5cf1feaa0dfa02e69a34c45fe1178)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5729b.jpg&hash=a149278dc5c186bcf7e4e409701b49e7fba0ff30)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5730b.jpg&hash=8d34a64c5621920c906ae655ffae96503b333fb3)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5731b.jpg&hash=d38a8d6d17c8a8261278a9a6f261a7456ba98185)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5732b.jpg&hash=b3b7a473d0a8a49cd0d9fbadf6ed39f259245ee5)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5733b.jpg&hash=73c6c33f57d6adafa27a900d292eda8cdd6215fe)

After preparing the cobblestone road I started with the asphalt. I tried Narayan's method described here (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1604.15) with silicon carbide F60, glued with a mixture of PVA, water and some detergent. The material doesn't smooth out well neither dry nor moist. I have therefore spread a first layer which is a bit wavy. After drying, I applied some finer material F80, smoothed with a spatula (which is now possible because of the leveling is done by the substructure from first layer).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5680b.jpg&hash=63a704233d5e72ccad21a5b8fcb6942d2b89c3a9)

The points at which the tires roll received some basalt grain 0.1-0.3 mm (0.004' - 0.01') for a smoother surface. It looks like this:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5686b.jpg&hash=71c9a3f0c6625ce2e9a09c346acd47ba88e3a56d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5691b.jpg&hash=9406bbac6b1751e60301efe2d323de2f6ebee4ce)

The grit still seemed too coarse and the glitter too strong to me. So I spreaded grain basalt and black porphory dust and grit over the entire surface again and glued it. After drying, I'd spread the tire rolling areas with slate dust dissolved in PVA and water and diluted it sidewards with water up to zero. This last step can be seen here.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5697b.jpg&hash=3193348dffe749e06fd7a3695a580a3020acdf42)

After drying, the surface looks credible, but not the color.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_5702b.jpg&hash=89f8be719450d60be8cacf86017043f54c81d715)

So I treated the road with black gouache, which was applied on the tire rolling areas almost covering whilst on the other areas very dilute. After drying I swept some black porphory dust over again and fixed it with a special modeling glue by KS Modellbahnen (http://www.ks-modelleisenbahnen.de/index.html), which doesn't darken like PVA does.

Volker

The asphalt turned out well!

More satisfactory than somewhat. -- Russ

Well done!

Realistic asphalt effect with cobblestone under road  ;)

Franck 

Wow, very cool.  I love the textural variations in the roadway.  Good sense of old and new with the different surface finish.

Cheers,
Dan

Thanks Guys,

there are some more pics of recent steps at the exercise module extension in carcasse state. Again I'm getting in trouble with greenery, at least if it's higher than 0.2' ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5814b.jpg&hash=4837eab0bb532a9ceb54f00461538f8623f6b58b)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5833b.jpg&hash=b16040b51ec8ee3fe846003e9e21ae0ef28411a5)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5812b.jpg&hash=7fdc170fbbd651241e3735505acf94a401283fd1)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5800b.jpg&hash=ccfc23377f17d38daf14d482a6e081af31a92971)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5818b.jpg&hash=3263df8821920b44448b9810bfa813ecbe8462bd)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5822b.jpg&hash=19f2626f84e9bf703c4972e827dde63313dd9c4e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5835b.jpg&hash=118105618de911c665742cbdbd06e85d20a1b5a5)

Volker

Looks good to me. I especially like the patches of lichen on the stone wall.

Two photos are virtually impossible to distinguish from 1:1 scale. Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Volker, you have done an amazing job on the ground work. The different textures have worked out perfectly and so has all the weathering on the different surfaces. The only thing you can feel is pleased with your results. You are right the silicon carbide is not easy to work with, but I have not foung anything else that gives such a good representation of aggregate, especially at a crumbling edge. You capture this effect so well. And the lichen looks spot-on too.

Very Cool. As usual, I like the attention to detail.......and of course the overall scene.

Marc

Thanks Ray, Russ, Narayan and Marc,

seems to move in the right direction. There's not too much to come before the May exhibition in Schenklengsfeld so I'd like to show you some more pics.

The footpath area needed some more attention (I know I didn't show it before, guess why). I renewed the grass and added a little tree and some shrubbery.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5873b.jpg&hash=0ac5cf925176f50b8c173f37e1779e47556c1a19)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5853b.jpg&hash=9c8e0abc49b879760c6ca9e7b876b8d7ce25c6ee)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5856b.jpg&hash=cf937ae943a70bde8468fc9f46ac0e3d4ed16284)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5871b.jpg&hash=b183797af9286a64415e365c60239c98c7166f5d)

Tree and shrubbery are made from roadside pepperweeed. I sprayed it green and colored the trunk and thicker branches with brown gouache, adding some flock with spray glue to the tree. The branches of the roadside pepperweed look too organized for convincing treework. I think there's room for improvement.

The natural stone wall and the plastered wall right beside it received some more lichen ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5874b.jpg&hash=19e8691eb9a458a601b31f56a4746925d66f70d7)

... and a first wagon was pushed into the siding.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5887b.jpg&hash=222253b51aa75362526cd1a409f2d29c659f727d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5878b.jpg&hash=526b321023e7943e07a5f5e7222ccf12e97cff09)

Indeed the little plants often didn't have any kind of buffer stops.

Now I' m going to walk into the evening sun.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5849b.jpg&hash=6b08417c7a1eb89b0e0124ab68f4dfbafef4dfd8)

Cheers,
Volker

That final photo, again, could pass for 1:1 scale. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on April 10, 2013, 01:19:11 AM
That final photo, again, could pass for 1:1 scale. -- Russ

... FULL ACK ... apart from the groove between the rails appearing to "shiny": no detritus/rotten organic material in it/visible ... (actually not nitpicking) ...  ;)

Cheers

A work of A... R... T !!!!

Beautiful!

Quote from: mad gerald on April 10, 2013, 02:47:32 AM

Quote from: finescalerr on April 10, 2013, 01:19:11 AM
That final photo, again, could pass for 1:1 scale. -- Russ

... FULL ACK ... apart from the groove between the rails appearing to "shiny": no detritus/rotten organic material in it/visible ... (actually not nitpicking) ...  ;)

Cheers

I would absolutely agree with you, but isnt there a guy in every town in Germany, wearing a bright yellow or orange work outfit with reflective stripes, whose sole job it is to clean these grooves?

Quote from: RussThat final photo, again, could pass for 1:1 scale. -- Russ

I'm very happy to read that (again) for this is what I'm trying to achieve. For me often the 'random' pics work best like the one you mentioned.

Thank's Ian and Ray. As always I appreciate your feedback very much.

Quote from: mad gerald... FULL ACK ... apart from the groove between the rails appearing to "shiny": no detritus/rotten organic material in it/visible ... (actually not nitpicking) ...  Wink

Thanks for your post, Gerald! I don't agree with you. Have you ever tried to run a train on a steep gradient, braked by locomotive only as they did in Plettenberg :o? Forget it if there's detritus on the tracks. The grooved rails had drainages all 50 meters or so. When the rails were worn the flanges ran on the bottom of the groove. I think you may find there some stains of working sanders - if it didn't rain in between. Detritus may have been found in feeder tracks, which were very seldom used, but the track on the module is going to be the main spur. It would anyways be very difficult to represent this on a working layout if you use rail supplied power.

Quote from: marc_reusserI would absolutely agree with you, but isnt there a guy in every town in Germany, wearing a bright yellow or orange work outfit with reflective stripes, whose sole job it is to clean these grooves?

All Germans have to have a vest with reflective stripes in their car - in case there's a groove to be cleaned out ;). Back then they didn't wear bright yellow or orange outfits. Rather grey work coats. But you're right, there were people who had the job to keep the grooves clean. I would like to agree with you furthermore, but most German towns have lost/given up their streetcar systems. And nowadays they have trucks to do the job.

Cheers,
Volker

Quote from: Hydrostat on April 13, 2013, 09:06:19 AM
...

Quote from: mad gerald... FULL ACK ... apart from the groove between the rails appearing to "shiny": no detritus/rotten organic material in it/visible ... (actually not nitpicking) ...  Wink

Thanks for your post, Gerald! I don't agree with you. ...

... I don't want to belittle your work - but just in case you'd like to compare ...  8)

Switzerland ...  ;)
http://www.lokifahrer.ch/images/Strecken/Rillenschiene.jpg (http://www.lokifahrer.ch/images/Strecken/Rillenschiene.jpg)

Versorgungsbahn in Lainz/Vienna ...
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Narrow_gauge_railroad_-_Geriatriezentrum_Lainz_07.jpg/449px-Narrow_gauge_railroad_-_Geriatriezentrum_Lainz_07.jpg (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Narrow_gauge_railroad_-_Geriatriezentrum_Lainz_07.jpg/449px-Narrow_gauge_railroad_-_Geriatriezentrum_Lainz_07.jpg)
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Narrow_gauge_railroad_-_Geriatriezentrum_Lainz_18.jpg (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Narrow_gauge_railroad_-_Geriatriezentrum_Lainz_18.jpg)

... or this one ...  ;D
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F07-07-blog%2F07-07-0016-alte-rillenschienen-700mm.jpg&hash=9a762ee44dc6235a49b5c4596ac09e9ee39b62cb)
... but I must admit that's hardly fair - these rails have been out of service for a long time ...  ;D ;D

Cheers

Gerald,

interesting pictures!

I don't feel my work to be belittled, but I'm afraid you missed the mark ;): The first link doesn't show grooved rail. There are two usual flat bottom rails applied to each other to create the groove. Same with the pictures of the Lainz feldbahn: Usual flat bottom rail and another additional rail or angle section, providing a groove as deep as the rails height. Doesn't matter if there's some dirt in because there's a lot more space for the flange than at a grooved rail (Having to clean this must be pain, but I think they do it, too). The last pic may be grooved rails - but as you've written: It's been out of service for a long time.

In Plettenberg they used a (streetcar-) rail profile called NP4a. This is grooved rail (hoping I've got the correct translation for 'Rillenschiene') : left side (below) for streetcars, right side (above) for railways. Please note the different shapes.
http://www.tkgftgleistechnik.de/oberbauhandbuch/oberbaustoffe/schienen/rillenschienen.html (http://www.tkgftgleistechnik.de/oberbauhandbuch/oberbaustoffe/schienen/rillenschienen.html)

Cheers,
Volker

Quote from: Hydrostat on April 13, 2013, 11:12:22 AM
... but I'm afraid you missed the mark ;): The first link doesn't show grooved rail. There are two usual flat bottom rails applied to each other to create the groove. Same with the pictures of the Lainz feldbahn:

... au contraire ... sorry I've to contradict, 'cause they had real grooved rails at Lainz, replaced in the late seventies/early eighties by parallel arranged flat bottom rails, but the grooved rails looked the same ...  ::)

Just another example - mixed grooved rails and parallel arranged flat bottom rails ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0006-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010340.jpg&hash=d3fff1827a19aa234ede7f609c4d660e1cb3b058)

... and another example, similar scene comparable to your last pic ...
http://blog.wieduwilt.org/bilder/2013/130214-rillengleis-01.jpg (http://blog.wieduwilt.org/bilder/2013/130214-rillengleis-01.jpg)
... and a link to an article published in a tramway blog:
http://blog.wieduwilt.org/2013/02/167-rillengleis-im-original/ (http://blog.wieduwilt.org/2013/02/167-rillengleis-im-original/)
... as the author wrote: "... the groove itself is rusty and dirty ... "

Only ment as IMHO helpful suggestions to enable you bringing your grooved rails/scene/pic to perfection ...

Cheers

Hmmm. There is a cigarette butt in the groove, too. I wonder how many butts per kilometer would be accurate?

Seriously, is it not possible that some areas of a line have clean grooves and others have debris ... maybe the result of how often a track crew or street cleaner goes by or how many trains use the line?

Russ

Seriously Russ,

isn't this the place we are nitpicking and start splitting hairs ... to achieve higher grounds ... ?!  ;D ;D ;D

Cheers

Hi Volker

In such discussions I haven't frequently stated my opinion, but here I can only support mad geralds words.
Ok, this is absolute not my line of business ... but I do remember very well my dirty fingers, when we had to fish my coin from the groove between the rails as I was a boy. (We used to put all sort of stuff on the street car rails to flatten them. :-)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2Fwww%2F155321_zpsa3ddc5d4.jpg&hash=e2cdddff94109318355ffaaf6f476a1f727b2cfe)

Cheers, Peter

Maybe there's a problem with the frontlighting? Here's another pic.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5803b.jpg&hash=32d851ced28612af452147aad00ad02f67c2ccd9)

Cheers,
Volker

I was joking about the cigarette butts, of course, but not about the track cleaning; I really do not know whether a street cleaner would remove most of the debris in the track grooves, especially in Europe. I remember many cities, especially in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, being cleaner than American cities (including the streets). -- Russ

Awesome job Volker!

Congratulations,

Franck

I still think it's A...R...T

I know I could never achieve that level of perfection and realism but I keep playing at it because I get great enjoyment from my little world in the basement.

Gerald and Peter,

please watch me eating humble pie: After I took counsel with my pillow and then had a very nice spring day it dawned on me that I had a misunderstanding of the word 'detritus', which I solely understood as 'rotten organic material'. This is what I think would have been removed to ensure safe operation. And dirty fingers after touching a rail? Of course! Perhaps in addition I didn't get it how you could have seen missing dust and dirt in the grooves in that frontlighted picture.

Meanwhile I've talked to my friend Wolf, who is an intimate connoisseur of the Plettenberg railway and remembers it from own sight: There's been detritus (= dust, little stones, sand and so on) in most of the rails, but with high variation. A lot of dirt (and rotten organic materials, too) in the seldom used sidings and rather clean grooves at the difficult points like steep gradients - especially after the 'Ritzenschieber' has cleaned out the grooves or a heavy rainfall washed it away.

With his kind permission I'm able to show you an example for very dirty and obviously seldom used trackage ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715Foto_Alb_Middermann_1953_Slg_Wolf_Groote.JPG&hash=b7841c3106c357cf5dd070efcf01258fb5954928)
Foto by Alb. Middermann, 1953, Source: W. D. Groote collection

... and some cleaning efforts of the neighboring Hohenlimburger Kleinbahn:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715wdg-HKB-Schienenreinigungb.jpg&hash=1162b9afd48fee05b3d50be76cfd3b9da94d669b)
Foto/Source: W. D. Groote collection

From my own sight at the Mainz streetcar system I've mostly seen clean rails like these - admitting that's half a century later with better machinery ...
http://www.fotocommunity.de/pc/pc/display/14248350 (http://www.fotocommunity.de/pc/pc/display/14248350)
http://fotowelt.chip.de/k/wettbewerb/fotowettbewerb-detail-aufnahmen/strassenbahnschienen/666324/ (http://fotowelt.chip.de/k/wettbewerb/fotowettbewerb-detail-aufnahmen/strassenbahnschienen/666324/)
http://de.123rf.com/photo_3629348_strassenbahnschienen-in-einer-gepflasterten-strasse.html (http://de.123rf.com/photo_3629348_strassenbahnschienen-in-einer-gepflasterten-strasse.html)

For me the lesson is clear: The main line will remain as it is. The visible stains of dust in the groove in my last model picture are believable as there is a drainage in the groove and it may have been cleaned by hand and/or rainfall before. I'll add some detritus to the siding's grooves insofar as is possible for running trains on it.

I'm asking you to read what I've written about trackage in one of my first posts of this thread. You won't find trackage to scale at this 'exercise module' anyway. Funny that this is the point, which doesn't let the pictures pass for 1:1 scale for me. Good to have different ways of looking at things ...

Thanks Russ (I did get your joke), Franck and Ian (again). I would appreciate this to be art, given my cultural matrix, but I think it is what you said about your own work: Great enjoyment from my little world in the kitchen. Don't ask me what I do in the basement :).

Cheers,
Volker

Hey , Volker . What do you do in your basement ? And does it involve chains ?

  Nick 

You are in no position to talk, Nick. I have it on good authority that your entire basement is lined with leather .... -- ssuR

Nick,

mostly nothing. And yes, there are some chains. I think you train buff would love it.

Cheers,
Volker

Concerning heavy metal like chains and so on - and to get out of the basement: Does anyone have a clue what this might be going to represent?

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5943b.jpg&hash=fdb126ee3f479015e72f283fddad81b542f2bbd7)

Cheers,
Volker

It looks like the cast iron block my parents tied around my neck before they threw me off the Golden Gate Bridge ... only the one around my neck was bigger. -- Russ

Support for an iron bridge?
Marty

Something that inter-locks into something else.

...made in one of the casting foundries for which Plettenberg is known.

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on April 13, 2013, 12:38:25 PM
Hi Volker

In such discussions I haven't frequently stated my opinion, but here I can only support mad geralds words.
Ok, this is absolute not my line of business ... but I do remember very well my dirty fingers, when we had to fish my coin from the groove between the rails as I was a boy. (We used to put all sort of stuff on the street car rails to flatten them. :-)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2Fwww%2F155321_zpsa3ddc5d4.jpg&hash=e2cdddff94109318355ffaaf6f476a1f727b2cfe)

Cheers, Peter

That is a great photo. Where was it taken?

Marc, I don't know where it was taken. Perhaps Peter can answer your question.

To solve the riddle:
It is a 70 to. anvil block of a normal drop hammer, which once has been transported by the Plettenberg Railway. I needed something to temporarily fill the plant's yard.

The model is made from wood fiber hardboard, cardboard, wood and some putty.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5904b.jpg&hash=bc810f036805164e3a609c4e0653c3c28ba56adc)

I used 360 grit silicon carbide mixed with silver and transparent varnish Revell color. Then I coated the surface with slate dust, which was dissolved in PVA and water and sanded it after drying.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5914b.jpg&hash=bbfbebea2169d3338e4d16f6f2052641309a8c49)

The rust stains are made with gouache and pigments. The wooden covers are too coarse and too much weathered for my opinion. The nails are made from blackened 0.5 mm copper wire. I used a pincer to shorten them and then nailed them in on a metal padding. Next time I'll sand them down to keep the rounded form.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5921b.jpg&hash=efb0b439a8f7c43226c2e54fbb1dc48cedd6253e)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5942b.jpg&hash=27d9a49733920821a24e6daa7ea9a26e9887dcbc)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5922b.jpg&hash=b9f181b57c5ddf1707104484f7022208ddef66ca)

Cheers,
Volker

I like the texture on that anvil. Looks like a real casting.

Thanks, Ray,

I had some difficulties with the coating. I first took a lot of thinner to get it so much "fluid" that the particles were able to scatter. Even with a brush it is able to get an homogenous surface without bad brush stains. Afterwards one can easily scratch away what you didn't intend. This looked like that:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5906b.jpg&hash=251e438a250225a6943972b74dabd82751e3878c)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5909b.jpg&hash=1cba3301609ae5343f01bda2d4f901464970bb8c)

I liked the surface, but it seemed a bit too coarse to me. The particles didn't adhere to well for the lots of thinner used. Lack of an airbrush I tried to apply Revell translucent varnish with a brush which destroyed the surface completely. I had to wash it all down again. Then I started as described in my last post. Next time I would invest in a spray can ... Maybe this would already mitigate the rawness.

As there are some constructive mistakes I'll make another one casually.

Cheers,
Volker

I tried to improve the wooden covers to get the look of fresh raw cut wood, which has been out for a few weeks only:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5953b.jpg&hash=e21db79b485add9264b816aa7461b63dc2bd1fe9)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5958b.jpg&hash=8f7fb8d4959597b94dcdcb956899be33ddecd03d)

What do you think?

Added two journals at the gatehouse's desk - and will do some new ones after I've seen the pics. I think there's room for improvement at the sides of the books, especially at the open one.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5960b.jpg&hash=66cd3c17fc2920261ffd2c975c09778c2c3fe99c)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5970b.jpg&hash=8112a0f134be3a018ad7251d43fb8b5175ba7cee)

Cheers,
Volker

Hi Volker

After having read your thread I have half a mind to try a railroad diorama myself...
One question: How did you do the moss on the walls above?

@Marc: I do not want to hijack Volkers thread. Here a link to another pic of the same engine. The scene is situated barely 50 meters away from my home (thirty years ago, of course:-).

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff181/Peter_T1958/www/GF20Werkbahn2013klein_zps9151953b.jpg


Regards, Peter

Peter,

please feel free to show more pics of the Schaffhausen railway. It's very interesting for me as it seems to have served a similar purpose as the Plettenberger Kleinbahn did.

There are two kinds of moss:

For the green one I started with usual brown 'Streumaterial' from 25 years ago (this was colored sawdust), which I milled in an electric coffee grinder. Mix it with PVA, water and some detergent until it is some kind of paste which you can spread as you like. Afterwards I mixed some very fine green woodland scenic foam flocks with green acrylics, same PVA mixture and ashes of incense cones from Erzgebirge. Apply this on top of the brown coat. If it's dry (brightness and tone will change) you can color it again with dilute water color.

The yellowish sedum is made the same way; the material once was part of H0 scale buildings of Faller or Kibri or Vollmer as material for flower boxes. Sorry I can't give an exact description. I'm using scrap all the way.

Volker

Hi all,

that's been the janitor's book before ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5970b.jpg&hash=8112a0f134be3a018ad7251d43fb8b5175ba7cee)

... and that's what it looks like now:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5976b.jpg&hash=9c1e8511a55d2fb9eac786d9953bb0cd82f1ee16)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5972b.jpg&hash=4ed8d12ba283ca10ef76592c8c0f5bba40c62c59)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5988b.jpg&hash=b859ab7805910b325f6604178643c734d5653889)

Cheers,
Volker

That is a serious improvement. -- Russ

Yes, that second version definitely looks much better and more realistic. What did you do?

On the fresh cut wood;
I dont like the missing "chunks", trying to represent grain?
I would use smooth wood then drag it over a disc sander (A Chuck Doan trick) to leave circular "cut" marks, like a circular saw would leave. I doubt wood for this would have been planed smooth.

-Marty

Marty:

Thanks for your comment! I think you're right. I used veneer but obviously didn't sand it down enough. The missing chunks are the immersions I didn't reach. What looks nice from usual distance is pain on the photo ... I'll try again.

Marc:
I took a photo of a hand written spreadsheet, mounted it twice for the left side and added the missing spreadsheet lines on the right side in my graphics program. Then printed it on cigarette paper. The binding is printed on usual 80g/m² paper. For the inner part I took two different thick pieces of grey cardboard, glued them together at one edge and bended the protruding parts rectangular away from each other in a vice. Then drenched it with super glue, sanded away the part which had been in the vice (the saddle), glued the sides in with superglue, sanded all edges and whitened them a bit with opaque white. That's it.

Volker

The colors and textures across this diorama are excellent..!

Quote from: Ken HamiltonThe colors and textures across this diorama are excellent..!

Ken, thank you very much. Glad you like it.

Marty, here we go:

I made a simple constructon to sand down the wood evenly.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5990b.jpg&hash=e3b57587df0f39606a8e6aca7864a3dcb97b568c)

Instead of the veneer from the picture above I tried some birch wood from a french cheese box. I think this is much better now. Unfortunately I wasn't able to catch the mentioned "saw marks" with my camera too well. Left sanded, right raw.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5991b.jpg&hash=dc50929483efefd48723da2c62f2ca48209d7fa7)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5995b.jpg&hash=d032805907ebcf2cb1b1661989672b1062dae09d)

This time I used 0.3 mm copper wire instead of 0.5 mm and I feel this is more realistic.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6000b.jpg&hash=3bc7a303d4c833fe2513b520d96210908b6c76cd)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6007b.jpg&hash=cc3bea90412e798349c2b999d0c3406aefa96c6f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6009b.jpg&hash=63aca92fa6939eb4bbd01939ea05721ae5ac4496)

And all three steps at once:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6012b.jpg&hash=a38ebe4a9309587ba742b1a38e777621ced11ad5)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6014b.jpg&hash=92d0691573b4385a66b4383285c8e273b1c4ac7e)

Cheers,
Volker

Satisfactory. Thanks for the step-by-step! -- Russ

Three versions, each older.
Very nice.
Marty

Hopefully my wood project comes out as well!
Marty

Hello, my name is Don and I am a new member. A few months ago Russ suggested that I join the form to help improve my narrow gauge modeling but this is just scary! Even the broken bricks and pot holes, filled in with dirt look real. The rails and the switch section, wow. He could probably make a plastic pizza look eatable. I might have to turn my tools into the Goodwill an start watching sports on TV and get a twitter account.
Don

Quote from: lab-dadHopefully my wood project comes out as well!
Marty

Thanks, Marty. I'm sure it will come out better!

Quote from: DonHello, my name is Don and I am a new member. A few months ago Russ suggested that I join the form to help improve my narrow gauge modeling but this is just scary! Even the broken bricks and pot holes, filled in with dirt look real. The rails and the switch section, wow. He could probably make a plastic pizza look eatable. I might have to turn my tools into the Goodwill an start watching sports on TV and get a twitter account.
Don

Thank you very much Don! Please don't be discouraged by anybody's work. We all started as beginners (not knowing at all which status you have!). But I'm afraid you posted in the wrong thread: Here (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=446.0) is the guy who makes plastic pizza eatable ... (Chuck, I'll take a quattro stagioni). This always makes me feel like a bloody fumbler  :o.

Meanwhile I made a drawing of an old Bakelite phone for the janitor's desk.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Bakelittelefon_H_rer.jpg&hash=220de7d52e84bfeb509f0680e0f63085b1ede5f2)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Bakelittelefon_Korpus.jpg&hash=d4f76481036e52caf9fa2a02112ecd3e83ad9a2d)

And I found a nice chair:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715118_0.JPG&hash=85c7ec3c828b33d1563e9e06e82140923599e0e9)

Um, don't know yet how to do that ...

Volker

So...do you plan to have these item rapid prototyped...or do you plan to making us feel inadequate, by scratchbuilding them? :)

The phone is going to be printed, but the chair should be somewhat selfmade, using knife, gable (and yes, um, the english word for 'Gabel' is 'fork' :'() and spoon. Prototyping is too easy, isn't it?

Volker

QuoteSo...do you plan to have these item rapid prototyped...or do you plan to making us feel inadequate, by scratchbuilding them?

Quotebut the chair should be somewhat selfmade, using knife, gable and spoon. Prototyping is too easy, isn't it?

:D That's funny!

-Mj

If he plans to build it from cheese then maybe he isn't joking .... -- Russ

I like that old Bell telephone. I actually have one that I used until recently. Salvador Dali also used one for his Lobster telephone

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fupload.wikimedia.org%2Fwikipedia%2Fen%2F1%2F1b%2FLobster_telephone.jpg&hash=4c5a1267e286a8662691f0c2e540ebbbce70202c)

Hi Volker,

where have I caught you there?

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8104%2F13IMG_0320.jpg&hash=9a3206893a1401ecdce096e2f681172808aee472)

What do you have to just because Photographed in Schenklengsfeld?

Ladies and Gentlemen,

I'm afraid joking stops here.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6098b.JPG&hash=5de4d2d2bc1fd8945a6140f8bba5771e2f27468f)

For the poor eyesighted ones: The butterfly nut's thread is 0.6 mm (0.024').

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6094b.JPG&hash=5acce6f502768ae92a7c3446a24495603e3eeae4)

If you ask how this was done: I don't know. The thing suddenly stood in the gatekeeper's house. And it's full functional. Including the here missing chair casters.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6090b.JPG&hash=600b9d5926f4eec8f1ed96a7dec1d6c3dabaa266)

Okay, to be honest (I don't want to be fired - or even worse sent to Nick's corner [it's a corner thing, not because of Nick] ... no forgeries, you know): Helmut, please tell us how you did it. My very little part at that was the idea, some drawings and hints for manufactoring. Helmut said this was an exercise chair  :o.

And now to something completely different: I'm back from the Schenklengsfeld gauge II meeting and want to show you a quick snapshot of a train running in the street. Everything worked fine. Everything? Okay, you have to be aware of the street grabbers ::). I don't get that.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6120b.JPG&hash=07c80d442e31fcc85d19c296e5039db79cefa54d)

Cheers
Volker

Holy carp! That chair is mind-boggling!

Not bad. -- Russ

Quote from: Hydrostat on May 13, 2013, 04:46:06 AM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6090b.JPG&hash=600b9d5926f4eec8f1ed96a7dec1d6c3dabaa266)

... sorry, if it seems I'm nitpicking (again) ... but is the sub-construction of the swivel chair mounted in the center (of the bottom) of the seat - or more towards the front end of the seat http://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8859/5715IMG_6086b.JPG (http://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8859/5715IMG_6086b.JPG)? If so, it would reduce a part of the magic in my eyes. I'm just asking, 'cause I can't imagine (and never have seen) a swivel chair, where the sub-construction isn't mounted centered ...  ::) ...

Cheers  

Hi all,

to answer Gerald's question here too as I already did at buntbahn: He's probably right. At the pics I've got I'm not able to decide where the pivot is. But I feel it should be in the middle, too. So I asked the owner of the real chair to have a look and am waiting for his answer.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715118_0.JPG&hash=85c7ec3c828b33d1563e9e06e82140923599e0e9)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715118_1.JPG&hash=8f62b6c1ad26cd311de005d3b941cb8695c75548)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715118_7.JPG&hash=e5547211e059b800b0670038ee283bd83a3ea151)

So this blessedly is Helmut's exercise chair and we may bury it for its faultiness.

Cheers,
Volker

... it may be an "exercise" chair for an "exercise" layout ...  ;) ...

Quote from: Hydrostat on May 14, 2013, 01:06:15 AM
So this blessedly is Helmut's exercise chair and we may bury it for its faultiness.

... there's no need for - the chair eventually just needs a little adjustment regarding the mounting of it's sub-construction ... apart from that I'm quite sure Helmut will additionally find a way for further improvement in this case too ...  ;D

Cheers

The problem is the slotted back rest holder, which is too long to reposition the pivot. As Helmut said he often needs to make a test model to see if everything works as is thought. Given all drawings were made two-dimensional it's hard to imagine how the parts work together if you can't take any measures at all. So that isn't Helmut's mistake.

Volker

Who would think a chair would make such an interesting model? -- Russ

So when will this chair kit be available! (wonderful little piece)

Hello,

I spoke with Volker and we talked about what so everything should be present in at least one porter.
We found primarily, a chair would not be bad.
I still have a really old simple wooden chair and slammed against a build like that.
Then Volker came with the swivel chair and said he would like something very model of justice, but he could not build such a thing could even say he at the moment.
My statement was, of course, you could build something like this and I see no problem with.
Added to this was the fact that I developed for myself, interested in such a swivel chair with me.
I asked why Volker, once to collect images and draw the chair in simple views.

A short time later I had pictures and drawings, and from the PDF I generated the milling files for an exercise chair.

As usual, came with me once brass used, since this material can be worked particularly well.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0261.JPG&hash=7baa4666fca6a896842a37fab6f702a45d4ca99a)
Getting parts for a swivel chair.
This was the first part that I created and was able to present Volker.
Since it is an exercise chair, we realized that the needs of the backrest must be even better.
Therefore Volkers concentrated thoughts and my actions even once on the back.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0263.JPG&hash=ace03e6644c4b08a0607df137bf1b2ac8de8da94)
Development and formation of the backrest.
Below left, the first exercise of the backrest, while the upholstery studs were introduced as drillings.
But still lacked the transferred seat cover, I milled a framework to simulate this better.
Only here the decorative upholstery nails looked not even look convincing.
Then Volker suggested to use a male that was better because now the nails had to be so only in a negative light.
The result was the male top left and top right of the imprint.

The imprint of the male I made with 2 mm gray board.
These both have simply clamped in a vise with smooth jaws and compresses the gray board to about 1 mm.
Then I cut out the back to the male around with a sharp knife.
The backrest I could now turn in this form and then soaked in glue and strengthened by it.
After drying, the chipboard could be ground into shape.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0266.JPG&hash=1bc212742038328ae66efd8d76ca28d522fc84e1)
First compilation of the now successful swivel chair parts.
The seat was cut from a 2-mm polystyrene plate in the form.
So the parts for the swivel chair and looked out afterwards been added was also a seat cushion of a mm to the right 2 cut polystyrene piece was created.
But there were still missing more parts that could now be made.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0269a.jpg&hash=e2b71b4299a4363e383b4aa25d25841ffd09d5a5)
Seat, spring retainer, rotating bearing disk, and the back spring roller holder with the slots are too wide.
Here, watch again the seat cushion, also spring retainer, pivot wheel, reel seat and back spring.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0279a.jpg&hash=00614cb91ab9d45f42c9be069892dc443a15097c)
Then, the seat and the backrest have been connected for the first time sample of the back spring.
In the production of properly functioning bolt and wing nut I'm still separately.
Unfortunately, it turned out that the slots were too wide in the back spring and still no adequate clamping was achieved with the bolt and wing nut.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0348.JPG&hash=520ef42d613f69a09418a1dc1fc077a269320b82)
Links jig for mounting the roller into the chair legs.
The 3 holes on the top edge serve to hold the deburring of the role holder.
Law, the bending theory of the role holder.

Now I dealt with the roles, after all, can rotate and roll really should.
The role holder I had already shown in the bend.
To bend I had created me a bending tool.
In the spring tempered stainless steel but no sharp-edged bending is possible without it breaking.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0300a.jpg&hash=a61b7fdcf0ba9cf18174b06ebac9eb0c44ff7987)
The role holder are pre-formed with the bending theory.
First wheels milled sample this course, must be deburred.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_0281.JPG&hash=01c17c9fc0f8faeedfc6befcc162153ae8ef42d4)
M 0.6 wingnuts
To create the wing nuts I once introduced a 0.5 mm hole in a 2 mm brass plate.
Then I milled with a 90 ° prick a 3 mm circle around the hole 1 mm deep.
This was later the lower slope of the wing nut.
Now I have the plate upside down to edit it from the other side.
First, a short train was placed 1 mm deep with a 1-mm cutters exactly centered over the 0.5 mm hole.
Finally, I had to mill out only the contour of the wing nut.
What is still missing were the classic round wing and the M 0.6 thread.
In addition I have taken an M and started to cut the 0.6 thread taps.
I simply keep the wing nut between your fingers and then quickly comes the moment where threading is slightly heavier.
From this moment I use to free-hand, with a very fine diamond cutting wheel, the wing to drag around.
Now turn the tap back gently rid of all the fine chips, and then finish by cutting the thread.

Amazing work!

Lord have mercy!! -- Russ

Quote from: Hydrostat on May 07, 2013, 04:47:54 AM

Quote from: lab-dadHopefully my wood project comes out as well!
Marty

Thanks, Marty. I'm sure it will come out better!

Quote from: DonHello, my name is Don and I am a new member. A few months ago Russ suggested that I join the form to help improve my narrow gauge modeling but this is just scary! Even the broken bricks and pot holes, filled in with dirt look real. The rails and the switch section, wow. He could probably make a plastic pizza look eatable. I might have to turn my tools into the Goodwill an start watching sports on TV and get a twitter account.
Don

Thank you very much Don! Please don't be discouraged by anybody's work. We all started as beginners (not knowing at all which status you have!). But I'm afraid you posted in the wrong thread: Here (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=446.0) is the guy who makes plastic pizza eatable ... (Chuck, I'll take a quattro stagioni). This always makes me feel like a bloody fumbler  :o.

Meanwhile I made a drawing of an old Bakelite phone for the janitor's desk.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Bakelittelefon_H_rer.jpg&hash=220de7d52e84bfeb509f0680e0f63085b1ede5f2)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Bakelittelefon_Korpus.jpg&hash=d4f76481036e52caf9fa2a02112ecd3e83ad9a2d)

And I found a nice chair:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715118_0.JPG&hash=85c7ec3c828b33d1563e9e06e82140923599e0e9)

Um, don't know yet how to do that ...

Volker

Thanks for the encouragement Volker, you have rescued me from watching American Throw Ball on TV, I will keep plodding on. I just got back from Europe hence the lag in responding. I got to ride the Euro Star, wow. As I am new to this thread/site could you tell me what scale are you working in? I take it that each line on the the ruler is an actual millimeter?
I will have to dig out old projects that I stopped working on because of ignorance on how to continue. I am feeling inspired and learning things already.
Thanks again, Don

Hi, Don,

it's 1:22.5 scale. You're right: those are millimeters opn the ruler. But this was Helmut's work ... Time to post some own stuff again.

Cheers,
Volker

Hi all,

there hasn't been too much progress on that project. There was some sort of confined writer's block and some time-consuming preoccupation with CAD construction of items for another project.

The phone's development has gone further, but didn't reach the end by now. But I wood like to show some steps. First I had it printed at a company which had done a metal sleeper for me:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6038B.jpg&hash=7fbf77a78fe9a3a0951eeb962db042cea4d2fad8)

Left side is an older SLS print by another company, the right one is printed on an Objet Eden 350V. There were only some horizontal lines on the slopes I had to remove. The upper surface and the screws showed no noteworthy stains at all. Track gauge is 45 mm.

But - not so with the phone:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5522b.JPG&hash=8eb1381fb6c91413a5ce65d3c9edae7257ea7d0d)

Blackening it with an edding you had a perfect look of an old bakelite phone sprinkeld with melted iron.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5531b_1.JPG&hash=2dd49c74106b4ad92eb2f0af5d80674899ac60df)

I used some acetone soluble colour to equalize the worst stains, but it hasn't gone very much better. Still been too far away from being good.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6301b.JPG&hash=128f90b3e4758102c48422413bd21ad42bb3c6a1)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6307b.JPG&hash=da237f145b845e5c84c76c8d72745836a59c068b)

Obviously it depends on the choosen geometry, what a printer can afford. Meanwhile I found another company that uses an EnvisionTec printer with very good results - independent of geometry:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6575b_1.JPG&hash=5670fb6c935a510a1100d85e3091bcb28c664f48)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6584b.JPG&hash=ff63f65828501d7cb1d04a6698c5bbf5d687f1d2)

I decided to have this one casted in white metal after removal of the knobs which remained from the printing process. I'll show the results in a week or two.

And now to something completely different.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6372b.JPG&hash=ca7a94f4536b42b5f9f15acae7caa98bf4e5bdb4)

Here's how to:

• Print some scaled pictures of leafs and cut them out.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6364b.JPG&hash=161e9753ca670e5a7d10a3fd38d9821476f0a7e4)

• Glue a piece of cigarette paper as leaf sheet to that.
• Fix with very thin super glue.
• Cut down leaf sheet to scale.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6365b.JPG&hash=c1bb37ab8a6f944796cfb8cb91e0f9456faad75b)

• Glue the single leafs on a piece of sharpened iron wire.
• Color the bottom of the leafs and other white parts with semigloss acryls, using the brush stains to get some structure.
• Color the upper sprout with red water color.

That's it. There' room for improvement: Next time I'll use thinner paper for printing and a nail scissor to cut the leafs out. The visible sharp edges result from using a cutter blade (I think you call it Exacto or so?).

Next step was a small table in fifties' design.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6399b.JPG&hash=9fa3e61741df51264b33c57270ee3cd8de3e2e1a)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6401b.JPG&hash=c2ba6b3e330bd4cf78deb27a4ff289854141b1e0)

Here's how to:

• Research for a suitabel table.
• Dewarp with photoshop and print on glossy paper.
• Cut out tabletop from cardboard and drench with super glue.
• Drill some holes for the legs.
• Taper toothpicks by sanding them down in the drill.
• Cut and drill the reinforcement plates from cardboard.
• Glue and drench printout, tabletop, reinforcement plates and legs with super glue.
• Cut some self adhesive copper foil and glue it on the table's edge.
• Fix again with super glue.
• Sand with very fine sandpaper; gives a nice effect of a worn plate if done too much.
• Color bottom and legs with matte brown acrylics.
• Rub in white shoe polish to everything.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6382b.JPG&hash=83d682088e88d86b0327e6ae0425715e4d10367b)

That's it.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6396b.JPG&hash=7f669ee5097940e990f98e73b74263570a4fbf3f)

But I got a hint at German buntbahn forum, that the linoleum was not correctly represented as there's no repeating pattern at the prototype. So I changed that after some additional information from a nice phonecall with the historian of a linoleum company.

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I'll add some dust and stains, when the ínterior equipment has found it's final place.

I hope I didn't get you too tired. But if so: Good night.

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And a bit more theatrical for the moonstruck ones:


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It's still the old phone version. I'll fix the cable to the plate at the final version.

Cheers,
Volker

Great stuff! The floor looks terrific!

Volker,
this is amazing!
It's hilarious, that you consider this just your "exercise" module for an even bigger project.
What you show, is the transition from model building into micro-engineering and back! So many people can do either or, but you are master of both! Echte Meisterklasse!

Christian

I like your use of so many materials: Metal, plastic, wood, photos and paper, plaster (for the streets), 3-D prints ... the list goes on. Very instructive. -- Russ

Definitely amazing!  :o

Thank you very much, Ray, Christian, Russ and Arno,

I always feel that there's room for improvement. That's why this is and keeps being my exercise module. For example the window board at the second last picture should have had sharper edges. In the corner you see that the pigments have built up too much. You'll read more about it in the coming modelers' annual, as Russ mentioned, so I don't want to tell too much about it now. Some people say macro photography is a curse. I don't think so. If you try to reach a 1:1 scale impression it simply helps to do it better next time or avoid mistakes in choice of materials, for example.

I appreciate your words very much. learned a lot about CAD from my friend frithjof for example, who's writing here, too. If there's a "Meisterklasse", you surely find it here in this forum. Not the worst company ... :-*

Volker

It took some more time but I would call the phone done. Meanwhile I got the white metal castings of the phone. That's what it looks like when painted with some aceton soluble color. Size is 7.5 x 7 x 7 mm (exactly 1:22.5 scale):

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_6954b.JPG&hash=31bd47043e2e927b6162b55b8e95f7446fcb5dbf)


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The casting resulted in more items than I need. So, if there's someone interested in a casting (see pic below) please send me a pm.

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Cheers,
Volker

Most satisfactory. -- Russ

That turned out great!

The chair, the phone...wonderful! I really like the "atmosphere" pictures you are starting to take.

Thanks guys,

some time has passed and there's a new item on the desk.

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Any suggestions how to fix the phone cable on the desk? The thread is somewhat stiff. I didn't want to use CA to avoid glue stains but got no clue what to use instead ???.

Again there are some white metal castings, a piece of wire or tubing and FUD printed bulbs. I'm not able to focus all parts at same picture, so there are some to show details:


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The phone got a little sister in 1-32 scale.


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And so the desk lamp did. The hole in the lampshade is a little mishap from drilling; it's not in the cast part. Helmut tries to make an illuminated version. I'm sure he'll even get the control button working  ;).


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Some time ago I got a shipment with the swivel chairs from Hemut. Thank you very much, Helmut - I'm really enthusiastic about them! My part was then to try to give them a bit more of a wooden look and to add some stains of use. I'm sure there's room for improvement - I think Ray would have done it better!


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The big room at the WIMAG housing got a heating system.


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I don't like the result too much. I started with laserd cardboard pieces with different diameters, which I stringed on a metal rod. The pieces are too coarse and the cardboard is too flexible to reach exact measurments to apply the edge protection.


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I glued all parts together with CA and then tried to round everything a bit in the drill.


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And that's the result.


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Next time I'd use brass parts to get cleaner results.

Cheers,
Volker

More beautiful details Volker. It is a pleasure to see your work. Maybe use solder for the cord? (if it comes small enough) You can roll a flat file over it for cloth texture.

Great stuff! That radiator looks very good to me.

Everything looks absolutely terrible, Volker. Keep trying, though. One day you'll learn ....

In 1:22.5 even a telephone cable is big enough to glue down. Have you tried a rubber based adhesive? In the U.S., a big hobby distributor, Walthers, offers something called "Goo". It is (or was) made by 3M and they called it "Pliobond". Uhu or another manufacturer may offer something similar or even identical. Just a touch here and there should secure the phone cord.

The nice thing about rubber based adhesives is that you can roll off any excess with a toothpick. The result is a very clean bond that usually leaves no stain at all. If it does, the solvent is lacquer thinner.

Russ

Thanks for your hints! I'll give Chuck's method a try. I thought of lead wire but didn't know how to texture it. The idea with the flat file is very clever!

I know that most of you are completely out of reach, but: The exercise module is on show next week from 04/9 to 04/13 at Intermodellbau in Dortmund (hall 4, stand 4H22).

I wood be outrageous, tremendously, elusively and extraordinary be pleased to meet some of you guys'n'girls at the fair.

Quote from: finescalerr on March 24, 2014, 01:15:49 AM
Everything looks absolutely terrible, Volker. Keep trying, though. One day you'll learn ....
Russ

Are you sure? So there's hope.

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Cheers,
Volker

The reflection of the radiator on the waxed floors looks amazing! It's the perfect antithesis to your rusty rails.

Totally obnoxious. But most satisfactory. -- Russ

  Volker,

  have a good time in Dortmund.

  Jacq

Hi, I'm going to visit Volker tomorrow with a surprise in the luggage in Dortmund.
I'll let you have a little bit if you want.
I have tested the assembling of the desk lamp and it lights up even with me.
All this applies not only to the lamp in 1:22.5 scale, but also for the lamp 1:32 scale.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_20140408_182243.jpg&hash=57e31a4e9d6ec1aa2d2189632c337f51a4e8b7af)

More pictures there then after the show if you like.

Wow! -- Russ

Double wow! Yes, more pictures please! I'm curious how the LEDs are wired.

Hi there,

in collaboration with Volker, I have worked out a solution for the lamp.

The lamp heads and feet had to be drilled.
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For this, I created a jig for the lamp heads .

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For the lamp tube , we chose injection needle.

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The bending theory for the lamp tube in 1:32 and 1.22,5.

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The bending theory for a better view open.

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Unfortunately, only a hole could be drilled in the jig.
The 3 additional holes had to be drilled by hand.
Moreover, even a milled opening for cable entry in the lamp.
How could two black 0.15mm enamelled copper wires are pulled.

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Then a SMD LED could be soldered to the wires.
The scale in the background has a mm pitch.
The lamp tube of a hypodermic needle is 0.6 mm in diameter.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13P1060578a.jpg&hash=bbc59abbf8ae347070a7b1679b6c03782851d1fa)
Here the lamp at their destination, the porter's lodge.

With three stunned giants looking on in the background!

Superb work ....... again!

For an exercise module I have to say this is extraordinary modelling at its best.

I know that it's an exercise module,...................... so when will you start on the real one?
Can't wait to see that!
MPH

Amazing! Thanks for posting the additional pics and info.

This is totally insane ... in a good way! -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on April 10, 2014, 12:53:34 AM
This is totally insane ... in a good way! -- Russ

Hi Russ,

how do you known what Volker said to me, when I showed him the lamps.

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In any case, Volker and I have much pleasure in the result.

Wow!  Most awesome.  If the three gentle men in the the window on the other page were standing a few feet back, you would never know it was a model.

Wahnsinn!

Hi,

I'm back from Dortmund. Had a really nice time meeting a lot of Buntbahn members. Unfortunately the finescalerrs turned their backs on me. So what ;).

Do you really think that's insane?

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Did i ever mention that I provided a center punch for drilling out the switch to get it working?

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Quote from: Mr Potato Head on April 09, 2014, 05:45:25 PM
I know that it's an exercise module,...................... so when will you start on the real one?
Can't wait to see that!
MPH

Have a look here: http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.0
(http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.0)

Your friendly words are very much appreciated. But - you all work at the highest standards. Otherwise Uncle Russ would have shown you the door. Wouldn't he? Uncle Russ?

Some snapshots:

Evil eye to the janitor.

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He forgot to close the door.

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Now the train can run.

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Cheers,
Volker

This is superb modelling! What the hell would the finescalers know anyway?

I always get into trouble at shows because my layouts never follow a "prototype". Here you have not only followed a prototype but shown that your standard far outshines nearly everyone else in the room. I think they're just jealous!

Thanks, Ian.

Regarding Helmut's lighting there's nothing left to be added ... aside of this:

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A bulb was missing.

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It's a FUD printed part glued to the LED.

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Please don't mind the paintwork ... I'll fix that.

Here's how the single parts congregate. Helmut was able to mill the inner hole of the lampshade CNC based, using a jig. Unfortunately the feed-through for the stand had to be drilled by hand. There's too much deviation within (in, on, with, at) the cast white metal parts. There's only 0.1 mm wall thickness left at the thinnest part after drilling so I had to do that by hand. The cast lampshade part already has a center mark for that.


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I used a pen drill for that. Drill diameter is 0.6 mm in 1/32 and 0.8 mm in 1/22.5 scale.


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Helmut milled a jig for the stands, which I also used for cutting the injection needles.


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The deburred segments fit to the jig ...


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and I bend them with the collet jaw to the jig, which has a somewhat tighter radius than the prototype for compensation of the rebounding.


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That's it.

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Cheers,
Volker

The bulb is the icing on the cake!

Thanks for the how-to photos and info.

Actually, the bulb is the CANDLE on the cake. And the resulting lamp is neither simple nor ordinary. -- Russ

I don't want to get you bored with this darned lamp, so please zap away if you're expecting a new item.

Color adhesion on white metal seems to be a problem. It's less or equal zero. Maybe some primer may help, but there'll be an additional layer to hide details.

At a tiffany supplier I found a blackening fluid for pewter. Boiling the items in some water with detergent helps to make them fat free. I then dunked them into the fluid until they went black. The fluid changes to a rusty brown soon after that. It's interesting to add a white metal part to this "rusty" fluid: It doesn't get black, but rusty!

This is after blackening:

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I found the fluid here - this surely isn't the producer: http://www.ebay.de/itm/250650591700?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.de/itm/250650591700?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)

Now color really sticks to the material!

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I didn't like the different gloss levels, so I used a felt disc to polish it a bit.

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If the blackening worked well and didn't get too brownish one can even polish the blackened surface. This gives an phantastic impression, but the surface of the cast items mostly is too coarse ...

I'm going to stop writing about that lamp now. Unless I get the switch working. :P

Cheers,
Volker

The experiment is a success. -- Russ

A few days ago Volker visited me. He delivered a package to me.

Safely packed, I got his phone and a desk lamp.

It is always amazing how well Helmut and Volker handeld these really small parts.

Although I recognize that the macro shots shows all the details and small errors adamant, but the size of these parts now lying in front of me, I felt ( as so often ): It looks darned small!


Tischlampe_1zu22_5_01 (fspg2)
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Tischlampe_1zu22_5_02 (fspg2)
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The two polished parts give the surface and the shine of the prototyp again convincingly!

The white design of the dial is successful, it doesn´t matter that the numbers are not readable.

Tischlampe_1zu22_5_03 (fspg2)
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As well there were still an archaeological dig on the table. Had the ravages of time left behind its marks on the parts??

If I remember, the telephone was made of Bakelite ... but the surface here looks rusty...

Volker, now you have to tell us the details.

Tischlampe_1zu22_5_04 (fspg2)
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How does that grab you: The fingers will press on the 0.3mm switch ... its may be a bloody  thing... perhaps an electronic touch switch (http://www.architonic.com/pmsht/ebs-4-touch-switch-with-different-sensor-areas-hera/1194225) hidden in the desk under the lamp will help....

Anyway, I'm curious about the result !

I can read the numbers on the telephone dial. So the question is ... does the telephone actually work? --  Russ

Hi Russ,

You can try it here:

www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=94324&size=big&password=&sort=2&thecat=8859

There is OCD...and then there is this. :D :D :P

Yes, but over here we channel it into more interesting things than washing our hands a lot or keeping a sock drawer. For every color. In alphabetical order.

Frithjof, that was not nice for those who don't understand that Klingon like language called 'German'. And for me, who I am debunked as a paranoid fusspot now. Which I am. My socks have their own weekday written on. And 'L' and 'R' which means 'links' and 'rechts', but that's too difficult to translate.

The picture was a photoshop fun after several guys complained about the missing digits. I know: No forgery. So get your guns back to the holsters.

Quote from: fspg2 on May 15, 2014, 03:59:34 AM
How does that grab you: The fingers will press on the 0.3mm switch ... its may be a bloody  thing... perhaps an electronic touch switch (http://www.architonic.com/pmsht/ebs-4-touch-switch-with-different-sensor-areas-hera/1194225) hidden in the desk under the lamp will help....

Come on, Frithjof, that isn't prototypical at all. :D But an interesting idea.

Thanks for the pics, Frithjof!


Cheers,
Volker

I am all but certain that telephone works. I bet we could use it to call Klingon. And, seriously, that is an amazing piece of modeling. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on May 16, 2014, 12:31:08 AM
I am all but certain that telephone works. I bet we could use it to call Klingon. And, seriously, that is an amazing piece of modeling. -- Russ

Thanks, Russ. For sure those Klingons do like bloody finger lamp switches. Unfortunately there's no desk to place a test lamp on. But I had to find out if it works.


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It does. So I don't have to show you pictures of a bloody fingertip with an outreageous, horrifying, tremendous amount of 0.3 mm stab wounds. There were none.

Unfortunately our world doesn't seem to have locking switches in that size. This needs an electronic solution which Helmut started to develop.

Whatsoever, the tabletop needs a base. There it is.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_7660b.jpg&hash=6264b3848d985c17c0f2f8520ee153b1a033c6ea)


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Any suggestion how to get rid of the deep fiber marks? Sanding didn't help.



Cheers,
Volker

The only way I know to fill or minimize the wood grain is to use caulk or that waxy crayon stuff (the fillers a cabinet finisher uses) or else to seal, prime, and paint the wood. Either way you would lose the appearance of real wood. Why didn't you use a very close-grained wood like Swiss pear? This is very unlike you. -- Russ

It's the same material I used for the wall panels in the director's room and I wanted the same appearance. At the walls it doesn't look that coarse it does at the desk.

Volker

Volker,
There are some products furniture builders use to fill corse grain woods. One brand name is "Wunderfil Wood Filler", I guess it is used on oak a lot because of the grain.  It is like a past that you wipe over the surface and then lightly sand and finish.

Hal

Thanks, Hal. I tried something like that, but the result didn't pass my claims. I'll build a new one. Have to check out my supplier.

Volker

Quote: Any suggestion how to get rid of the deep fiber marks? Sanding didn't help."

Try pear wood,steamed is darker but it takes a stain well.

Bill

Volker,
I have proven your painting skills again and again. I doubt you would have any trouble to match that wood effect on styrene.
The other option would be the "Uschi-Van-Der-Rosten" wood decals over styrene. I have never worked with them, but Marc Reusser speaks very highly of them.

Christian

What about using a different wood....something that has a really tight grain, like "Pear Wood" (Birren Holz). http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/pear/ (http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/pear/)

Also wondering if a wood like "Jelutong"  http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/jelutong/ (http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/jelutong/)  might work...we used to machine prototype parts and mold masters from it. Might still need some sort of pore filler, but it sands and finishes real smooth. (When given a coat or two of catalyzed primer we even used to be able to get high polished gloss surfaces).

....or like Christian suggests...the decals, in combination with artists oils to paint end grains and grain on surfaces/areas where decals are hard to apply.

FWIW - the grain is running the wrong direction on the drawers and the band in the same area.
Love the color though!
-Marty

No, grain on drawers is correct as it follows.the grain on doors below and other desk sides. Typical for this type/style of furnitu.re

Thank you all for your thoughts and suggestions. Next time I'll start with a more 'prototypical' wood with tight grain (I'm afraid I already said this before  :P). Pear wood, as suggested.

Anyway - I need this desk for testing the lamp switch. And I like the rosewoodish impression of my veneer and so I tried on to improve it at least a bit. First attempt was using a wood filler. This worked well, but as Russ mentioned it brings a somewhat artificial coloring to the wood. When I then started applying thinned nail enamel all the filler came off ... Reset. There was nothing to loose, so some CA had to serve as filler. That worked well and after sanding it down, applying mat lacqquer and polishing it with shoe polish it's a bit better. I think Marty meant the grain of the desktop front; this should be running parallel to the desktop (I glued two layers of veneer at right angles). No, this is no great result, but CA again has proven as a good home remedy.

Meanwhile I was able to build my first own lamp:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_7676b.jpg&hash=6a2d8c257111db71e336107b47bdc6daa7e90d31)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_7685b.jpg&hash=0ef97a21bb2192d56b16c710dd0244a228dfc8dc)

Now I'm waiting for Helmut's shipment with some electronic device for the switch which then should work.

Cheers,
Volker

Noticeable improvement on the desk. The lamp looks good, too. Altogether a very successful exercise. -- Russ

I think I have seen his desk.....at the Stasi Museum :D

Be lucky to have seen it at the Stasi Museum :o!

Really, did you? Show some pics!

In typical Stasi/East-Bloc fashion we were told "absolutely no photography" by the very sour, stern and matronly looking woman at the front desk......when pushed a bit she acquiesced and said "okay $1 per photo".  ::) :) ....but I thought this was ridiculous extortion so didn't take any. (Mind you, this was after already getting scolded by her and being told "NO, the Museum is NOT free of charge on Thursdays!"....despite the fact that I had the brochure in my hand where it said it was....this was very promptly and curtly explained away as a "printing error".  ;D

Mind you, I was not at all upset at any of this...I was greatly amused and enjoyed it immensely.....as she, and the whole discussion, was so in keeping with the subject/theme of the Museum...it made it a complete experience (especially when including trying to get something to eat and drink at the museum cafeteria...but that is a whole other story  ;D). I even had a hard time finding the place/museum,...and some of the people in the area I asked for directions, even denied it existed or know nothing about it.  ;D ;D

That's a really funny story. Reminds me of a train trip to Poland with a Russian train from Frankfurt/Oder. I had no ticket and the German stationmaster, a very nice woman, accompanied me asking the matron chiefs of the train to take a ride for some sweetener (I didn't speak any russian word) and each of them forwarded us to the next matron. The last one, most impressive from physique and appearence (impressive in a more intimidating way) finally agreed. After paying some 30 Deutschmarks (which would have been a usual ticket price in Germany, but was a lot of money for the little distance in Poland - and for the train chiefess), I was seated in an extra compartment with fresh tea served. I enjoyed my tea and mellowed out. On the wall there was a faded picture of a russian soccer team. With a roach running 'round it.

And now to something completely different.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_7696b.gif&hash=987e99ebd92fce3d18ee8554e65d473bc795ef07)

No forgery: youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gADehwCfBs&feature=youtu.be).

Now there's a working socket and plug missing  :P.

Volker
Schönen Gruß
Volker

Scale working light switch, eh?  That's completely insane!  :P 

And quite delightful!  ;D

Amazing work, there ...
Dallas

Quote from: Malachi Constant on June 07, 2014, 03:14:28 PM
Scale working light switch, eh?  That's completely insane!  :P 

And quite delightful!  ;D

Amazing work, there ...

I agree!!

I bow to your superior insanity! Truly impressive too!

Quote from: Malachi Constant on June 07, 2014, 03:14:28 PM
That's completely insane!

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on June 07, 2014, 04:56:44 PM
I agree!!

Quote from: Chuck Doan on June 07, 2014, 05:15:17 PM
I bow to your superior insanity!

Thanks gentlemen, for your complaisant assessment of my mental condition. Do you really think that's insane? So what is this:


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Well, the plug is amendable concerning its form, but it works both ways mechanically and electrically. Diameter of socket is 3.5 mm.


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Base is a brass casting socket by Frithjof. The looming holes for the plug had to be enlarged to 1 mm and drilled through the complete casting which then was cut off. 0.65 mm hypodermic needles with some soldered enamel copper wire serve as shafts for the 0.3 mm plug pins. The upper plastic part of the needles was sanded and filed down to 1 mm diameter using the Dremel as a lathe to get them fitting to the holes.

The plug consists of a small PS plate, two 0.3 mm pins with soldered 0.15 mm sec and a piece of a wooden toothpick, which was rounded and carved at the sides for pins and cbles. No CAD machinery or drawings.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_7687b.jpg&hash=7da299cc8d24423881450cfce1be560da5ebb68d)


I didn't like the coarse form of the plug, but this should work now after some improvement:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_7705b.jpg&hash=7df2c053b5717acbc65ccd46bc51a77d08fa1700)


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I hope they release me from that mental institution if I promise to pursue more reasonable activities.

Cheers,
Volker

Quote from: Hydrostat on June 08, 2014, 10:48:56 AM

Quote from: Malachi Constant on June 07, 2014, 03:14:28 PM
That's completely insane!

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on June 07, 2014, 04:56:44 PM
I agree!!

Quote from: Chuck Doan on June 07, 2014, 05:15:17 PM
I bow to your superior insanity!

Thanks gentlemen, for your complaisant assessment of my mental condition. Do you really think that's insane? So what is this:

... for example ... stark raving mad (meant as a mark of respect) ...  :o ;D ... (seems someone has left the door of your cell workshop open again) .... warden! .... warden! ... Volker has done it a gain!

Well, you may or may not want to go to Wien for some psychiatric care ... but the schnitzel is pretty good!  ;D

(Obviously, your insanity is deepening -- nevertheless, it is quite enjoyable for the spectators!)  ;D

Cheers,
Dallas

I have sent a suggestion to the Abteilung der psychischen Gesundheit (pardon the crude Google translation) to place you and Frithjof in the hospital for the creatively insane. Unless, of course, you are there already. -- Russ

P.S.: Satisfactory.

"Virtual Nursing Home for the Creatively Insane" should REALLY be the name for this forum, Russ!

For those who are interested in topics beyond mental health:

The switch works via a flipflop circuit with a NE555, similar to this one (http://www.themt.de/el-0220-fflp-49.html#tog). Thanks again, Helmut!

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_20140602_211724.JPG&hash=edd3a3de5722ff04c138751414090d0d73d36364)
(Picture by Helmut Schmidt)

The circuit fits into the desk's cabinet. By chance, I have to admit.

Cheers,
Volker

Hi,

the exercise module is on display together with the Sauerlandmodule (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=10977) by Wolf Groote from saturday 2014-10-04 to sunday 05 in Germany at the Sauerländer Kleinbahn (http://www.sauerlaender-kleinbahn.de/) in Plettenberg-Hüinghausen.

I would be very happy to meet there anyone from this world wide spread forum  :).

Cheers,
Volker

What does it do Volker?

Jim

Jim,

I hope I got you right: At the exhibition the module is connected to the segmental model railway by Wolf Groote which allows us to show the former operating procedure of the Plettenberger Kleinbahn with the exchange yard, where the standard gauge wagons roll onto the typical Rollwagen, a short stretch of track and the exercise module representing one of the plants along the line.

It's been stored in Plettenberg (some hours away from me) since the last exhibition in April so there was no process at the model itself.

Cheers,
Volker

I know this kind of insanity. Feed it.

Hi,

some impressions taken at the event.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F9135%2F5715IMG_8036b.jpg&hash=41b4c6d681b6dcac8a4dc9fa7a01743988df6b9a)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F9135%2F5715IMG_8041b.jpg&hash=4b5add0f936661e8399760cd1a3f31092a3c7f57)

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F9135%2F5715IMG_8018b.jpg&hash=89d14740f0f00221a01f515a43edf8f282e7af28)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F9135%2F5715IMG_8009b.jpg&hash=0f25659eb0a6d92055b0220176ee5b2819b08e77)

The loco and wagons were a loan by Stephan Weber (http://www.modell-manufaktur-weber.com). This shows how it may have looked at the Hohenlimburger Kleinbahn.

There are some more pictures in this gallery (http://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showgallery.php?cat=9135&ppuser=5715) at buntbahn. Unfortunately I wasn't able to perform the scale working light switch because the power adaptor passed away shortly before ... Next time more about that (the light switch, not passing away).

Cheers,
Volker

Beautiful work Volker. I like your groundwork so much... I think it stands on its own.

Satisfactory. -- Russ

Really nice!

Thanks Narayan, Russ and Ray!

Socket, plug, desk and lamp with working switch found their place in the building. Unfortunately the plug broke and I had to solder it again which didn't make it more beautiful, but at least it works again. It was worth the fun to find out if it was possible to build those 1:22.5 scale working items, but they are very delicate. Any idea how to fix the desk easily removable but transport tight to the flooring? I'm thinking about neodym magnets.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8078b.jpg&hash=75697ed9a0db41951433d0923be6ea6c7a0b198d)

Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 25, 2014, 05:17:24 PM
I know this kind of insanity. Feed it.

I do. Here are some ambience snapshots (I didn't care about backdrop and dust ...).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8077b.jpg&hash=0afbf1fd5ca9c36fc0f84da98966be07273de080)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8079b.jpg&hash=83bd92fd40ec9b9a0144311ebd0689a51ae13ed9)


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Cheers,
Volker

The wall outlet and plug are creamy frosting on this work of purely insane, over the top modeling. I love it.

When I saw the picture above the desk with a man smoking (you or someone else on the build team?) I thought of this scene from Airplane:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.caption-of-the-day.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F03%2Fpicked-a-bad-day-to-quit-smoking.jpg&hash=69bbd93a24c06b90d72cd1b119ee6d25518a7e61)

Just need a matching scale figure sitting at the desk smoking.....

I think the magnets should work well, but be careful they can be amazingly strong.

Thanks, James, but this isn't over the top at all. At best it's finescalerr standard.

Quote from: Stoker on October 14, 2014, 12:57:22 PMJust need a matching scale figure sitting at the desk smoking.....

Good idea, but I think the room with the pictures on the walls is telling more about its user if there's no person in. And I haven't seen a convincing scale figure yet, that made me think of it being real or not.

Interesting point about the Airplane picture: They didn't manage to get exactly the same posture and image detail and angle. Nowadays this is no problem, but then they had to rearrange everything for shooting after taking and processing the photo. Not to mention mounting a scaled-down version into the bigger one ... 

Quote from: Chuck Doan on October 14, 2014, 09:54:46 PMI think the magnets should work well, but be careful they can be amazingly strong.

Chuck, I gave it a try and grabbed the drill. Somewhat cramped there ... and the darned Formica below the flooring was pretty hard  ::).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8105b.jpg&hash=0306ec02706e351c8a2918186cba8f4ab6a68b35)

The magnets in the floor ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8107b.jpg&hash=cb09886ad4638d7cb484767717f305fa4d3546fd)

... and desk work well. I think they don't touch each other because of the floor fibers and so the desk doesn't retain to tight ...

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I added a desk pad and a phone. I think the pad is too thick and the surface still too coarse. This time I glued the phone cables down with CA, but even if I use a pinpoint it's still too much liquid and leaves some visible stains. I use a very thin CA. Any suggestion how to do it better?

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Cheers,
Volker

For the desk blotter, maybe some kind of art paper. You could even use thinner (regular laser printer) paper triangles in the corners for those leather "pockets" that retain a new cover. Uhu makes at least one rubber based or otherwise flexible glue. You could apply it with a toothpick to the phone cord and roll away any excess. -- Russ

Wow. Just, wow!

The magnets are a good idea.

Hi Volker,

since there is only one current problem, what you müstest solve my view necessarily for me.

Quote(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8094b.jpg&hash=3029a801bb5f1bdd1bdcbe47d7f65b7cef067d4b)

None of the window is securely closed, because all window handles are to open.
Because of that no paper is safe even for caution on the table and the desk lower bearing is designed especially schweer.

If I can help you, read it me know.

For there is no spec, only challenges.

Hi Volker

Wonderful! Your work perfectly meets the spirit of the late 50ies/early 60ies in Western Europe. And of course I have found some similar scene on my harddisk of the regional StSS narrow-gauge railway.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2FWestlake%2520Publishing%2520Forum%2F324503K_zpsb99e328a.jpg%7Eoriginal&hash=fe52ead0e96ecb2913fb2ad6ef0af0ac75300c4a) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/Westlake%20Publishing%20Forum/324503K_zpsb99e328a.jpg.html)

What I take from the photo is: tidy office, spartan furniture, the obligatory desk pad, only some stamps and first of all a lot less paperwork!
I would leave it in a very puristic look - some books here, some maps there and ... may be some stamps (fully operational of course ;D) on the desk.

Cheers, Peter

Thanks for your suggestions!

Russ, you'll have to repeat that UHU rubber thing once again :D. It takes three times for me to understand :(. This time I used glossy paper and colored crepe tape for the corners.

Peter, thank you for this very atmospheric picture. The circumstances (company size and income) may vary, but it shows clearly how 'clean' desks have been half a century before. I'll add some more items like an ashtray and a stamp bracket one at a time. Like this one.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8128b.jpg&hash=908f6b9e4bdea85f1e1b31ae848d8e1935ffab6d)

I changed the window handle's size and position. At the cost of three bad scratches over three windows. So what. It's an exercise module.

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The fountain pen isn't completely blackened; I'll have to fix that but noticed it not until I saw the macro shot. The quill is v-shaped but I wasn't able to take a picture because it always rolled on it's side. Length is 7 mm, diameter 0.8 mm. I made it from a piece of 0.8 mm brass tubing, which I sanded down on one end and rounded it on the other, using the proxxon drill as lathe. The quill is a 0.45 mm hypodermic needle inserted to the tubing, which had to be drilled out to 0.5 mm for that. The bracket is some 0.3 mm spring wire brazed into the tubing.

Cheers,
Volker

Wow, totally insane! (In a good way, of course.)

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 17, 2014, 03:28:15 PM
Wow, totally insane! (In a good way, of course.)

Thanks, Ray. Don't know where this will end up. But I hope I'll be in good company. During visiting hours at least.

Quote from Helmut at Buntbahn:

Quote from: Helmut SchmidtMaybe you can coat the pen with glossy black varnish so it rather looks like a Montblanc (http://www.montblanc.com/de-de/shop/schreibgeraete/meisterstueck/schwarzes-edelharz-gold/10575-meisterst%C3%BCck%20149%20f%C3%BCllfederhalter.aspx?plid=&match=&kword=) .

Maybe baby.

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Schönen Gruß
Volker

This thread is scary!!!!!! The pen could be made to work as well - as it uses a hypo needle it must be possible to put liquid through the tube? Just kidding.

This whole "exercise module" is way beyond my talents but one that I follow each time a new post is made. The quality is unbelievable - just what standards are you hoping to set on the real thing? Most modelling shows would accept the "exercise module" as being better than most finished layouts.

Beyond mere words.

I spoke to Volker and Helmut today via Skype. I must disappoint everybody and admit both have a very good sense of humor. Helmut's English is almost as bad as my German but Volker translated very well. They have talent, brains, and humor -- typical of most members of this forum. -- Russ

Hi,

Quote from: artizen on October 18, 2014, 05:53:20 PM
This thread is scary!!!!!! The pen could be made to work as well - as it uses a hypo needle it must be possible to put liquid through the tube? Just kidding.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Don_t_call_me_out_Ian_001.jpg&hash=5796de87195848027f1d03045be8e36adc66b055)

Quote from: artizen on October 18, 2014, 05:53:20 PMMost modelling shows would accept the "exercise module" as being better than most finished layouts.

I nearly can't cope with inquirys ;). Come on, Ian. I'm happy if it stands most G scale layouts. For sure it takes an inkstand for that.

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Quote from: artizen on October 18, 2014, 05:53:20 PMThis whole "exercise module" is way beyond my talents but one that I follow each time a new post is made. The quality is unbelievable - just what standards are you hoping to set on the real thing?

I really don't know. It just happens to me and I don't know where this will end up. Indeed I'm dissatisfied with some results - and at the same time there's this danger of never finishing an object. As long as the finished object is the aim ... 

Cheers,
Volker

Quote
I really don't know. It just happens to me and I don't know where this will end up. Indeed I'm dissatisfied with some results - and at the same time there's this danger of never finishing an object. As long as the finished object is the aim ... 

Cheers,
Volker   

It seems that dissatisfaction is the mother of all improvement!

A working light switch on a desk lamp, now a working fountain pen. Mind=boggled.

"Don't call me out, Ian"    LOL!!

A working model pen is the icing on the cake!

Exceptionnel!!!!!!!!

Such accolades are excessive. Volker merely displays competent modeling skills. The work is satisfactory. -- Russ

Quote from: Hauk on October 28, 2014, 02:04:52 PM
It seems that dissatisfaction is the mother of all improvement!

... on one hand: for sure  ... but IMHO on the other hand in could lead to burn-out as well ...

Cheers

Quote from: mad gerald on October 29, 2014, 12:45:14 AM
... on one hand: for sure  ... but IMHO on the other hand in could lead to burn-out as well ...

Cheers

Agreed, burn-out is the scarred side of the coin...

Quote from: Hauk on October 28, 2014, 02:04:52 PMIt seems that dissatisfaction is the mother of all improvement!

There are so many different ways. Claim. Trying. Coincidence. Deception. ...

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 28, 2014, 02:51:38 PM
A working light switch on a desk lamp, now a working fountain pen. Mind=boggled.
"Don't call me out, Ian"    LOL!!

I'm glad at least YOU could obviously laugh at it, Ray!

Quote from: mad gerald on October 29, 2014, 12:45:14 AM

Quote from: Hauk on October 28, 2014, 02:04:52 PM
It seems that dissatisfaction is the mother of all improvement!

... on one hand: for sure  ... but IMHO on the other hand in could lead to burn-out as well ...
Cheers

Quote from: Hauk on October 29, 2014, 02:07:12 AM

Quote from: mad gerald on October 29, 2014, 12:45:14 AM
... on one hand: for sure  ... but IMHO on the other hand in could lead to burn-out as well ...
Cheers

Agreed, burn-out is the scarred side of the coin...

Don't loose your humor.

Quote from: artizen on October 28, 2014, 03:31:02 PMA working model pen is the icing on the cake!
Exceptionnel!!!!!!!!

Oh no.  I thought using the same picture as base would clearly show my forgery.


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Quote from: finescalerr on October 29, 2014, 12:17:21 AM
Such accolades are excessive. Volker merely displays competent modeling skills. The work is satisfactory. -- Russ

You're so right, Russ.

Volker, writing those sentences from deep down the corner. But it was worth the joke.
(Indeed I tried to write with a needle of same diameter, but it doesn't work for different reasons - and no way I would be able to write such tiny letters. I simply scanned my writing and scaled it down to mount it to the picture.)

You should have posted that photo on April Fools' Day.  Go stand in the corner. -- Russ

LOL, totally had me fooled! 

I should have known, the physic properties of the ink couldn't scale down so well.

You had me fooled!

After your penalty in the corner, do you think you have time to make one of these?

http://www.chonday.com/Videos/the-writer-automaton

;D

Quote from: artizen on October 31, 2014, 04:38:19 PM
You had me fooled!

After your penalty in the corner, do you think you have time to make one of these?

http://www.chonday.com/Videos/the-writer-automaton

;D

Yes, I have time, but does it really need to be that tall ;D? Very impressive, by the way!

To be honest: I don't think to be a too good modeler and I'll try to explain why I think so - based on the latest item, which is going to represent a blotting paper cradle. Size is 8 x 3.3 mm (0.31'' x 0.13'').

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8199b.jpg&hash=f2a1d2195d982a51a5d62ff8b28e96e88e703c1e)

At this second picture one can clearly see the coarse surface compared to the other items. I didn't manage to get in smoother.

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We all work with the resources we have. I used a fax paper core as base, the end of which I drenched with CA. I wanted to use the drill as lathe, but the core was too thick for the chuck, so I glued it to a 12 mm drill.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8188b.jpg&hash=e517733caef3b08829f8a2464edfadd56298be33)

So it was able to sand the drenched end ..

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8189b.jpg&hash=85335945bd2f13db613ed37b882d666f30abd715)

... and side of the cardboard tubing.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8190b.jpg&hash=20929d4b603f2b1c1004da50b285fd05de1680ca)

A printout served as jig ...

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... for cutting the right width,

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and length after tightening the cut face with CA and sanding it.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8195b.jpg&hash=30676e31f3f87e46bf906c3c8140353c3ec847b8)

The handle is a toothpick piece, drenched with Ca and sanded in the drill for a smooth surface.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8196b.jpg&hash=2d7bd53ea91dc5324fbdcfdd95acd085522487e5)

My problems started at this point. I used the same black paint as on the other items, but it either wasn't well covering or its surface too coarse. I don't have an air brush. The aceton obviously started to dissolve the CA and after 2 hours of different tries I lost patience and accepted it to be as it is. Same with the inkwell, where I really wanted to achieve sharper edges. I lost clearness of the outer plastic tubing due to glueing it down with CA. In the next picture one can divine that there's another pot inside, half-full with blue ink. Oh - and it doesn't lead to burn out, but I'm surely aware of what I can achieve with my resources. I think Chuck Doan (excuse me for picking you out here, Chuck - but I honestly think you're a really good modeler [just avoiding to say the best ... who you are]) would have managed to create those items that immaculate you wouldn't have seen such mistakes I described.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8202b.jpg&hash=3711491652b16d1604fecdaebb9872482f1976c3)

So an important point of (my) modeling is photography - and I don't think that it is forgery. Look at the next pictures and have the shortcomings in mind. Do they matter now?

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8205b.jpg&hash=7a6ca847c388206c83b2ff8752b65ce69fbe8996)

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Today I had an opportunity to take some pictures at the other side of our apartment and so I'd simply like to show some more shots. The beetle is a cheap China product, which by chance (!) came out in the right scale (shoul have been 1:24 but it is about 1:22.5). Nothing for detail shots, but from a distance it's okay and a bit color would surely help, but there are other projects at the moment.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8215b.jpg&hash=6041c8f81dc996ddcc425cbc8d58f6e350dbf375)

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Thanks for watching.

Cheers,
Volker

hey volker
maybe the vd needs a few mud stains wonderful
regards kim

On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with the occasional shiny new car. Impressive modeling. Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on November 02, 2014, 12:31:33 AM
Impressive modeling.

Ditto!

Thanks Kim, Russ and Ray,

I didn't like the desk blotter's thickness and made a new one.

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Cheers,
Volker

We expected that. -- Russ

I love the mood in the photos, Volker. It's very "noir".

Quote from: BKLN on November 03, 2014, 07:19:02 AM
I love the mood in the photos, Volker. It's very "noir".

Thanks, Christian. Glad you like it.

I was a bit busy with a project relating to the exercise module, which kept me away from my own projects. Russ felt I should show this at finescalerr, but I didn't want to start an extra thread for some self-critical reasons and here it fits best. I was asked to do some street- and landscaping at four segments of the "Sauerland-Segmentanlage" (segmental layout), which mostly is on display together with the exercise module. Here are some pics of the project:


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If you're interested in details try this buntbahn thread here (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?p=300267#300267). Unfortunately it's in german but you may use Google translate. Or a dictionary. Of course I'll answer any questions here, too.

Both the segmental layout "Sauerland-Segmentanlage" and the exercise module are on display at 13. international Lahnsteiner Modellbahntage (http://www.mec-lahnstein-koblenz.de/aktuell13-internationale-lahnsteiner-modellbahntage2015/) on 2015/2/21-22 in Lahnstein/Germany.

Have a nice christmas time and all the best for next year!

Cheers,
Volker

Very nice. Reminds me a little of Narayan's street scenes.

Volker was reluctant to post the images because the module was more for operation than display and thus beneath his usual standards. I think we all would agree the quality is terribly low. Yes? Anyone? Oh, well. -- Russ

If that is a low standard, then it makes my attempts complete rubbish!

The module is so far ahead of the average standard of show displays in Australia that it would definitely win all the prizes!

That's essentially what I told him. -- Russ

the frightening is the Volker, for example, in the German BBF came forum or rather rather not receive resonances.
For some such already praise each other out there, it's embarrassing.
Especially since their models do not even meet a fraction of the quality of peoples.

Therefore, Volker please keep it up.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on December 22, 2014, 08:34:22 PM
Very nice. Reminds me a little of Narayan's street scenes.

Thanks, Ray. I think Narayan's reality related street scenes are far more detailed than this free lance design, which is rather guided by a prototype situation.

Quote from: finescalerr on December 23, 2014, 12:07:55 AMVolker was reluctant to post the images because the module was more for operation than display and thus beneath his usual standards. I think we all would agree the quality is terribly low. Yes? Anyone? Oh, well. -- Russ

Russ, thanks for outing me as compliment fisher :-*. I told you that this project doesn't reach the quality I've shown in 'Exercise module: Plettenberg narrow gauge light railroad' and 'A glimpse of the Plettenberger Kleinbahn' and for that I hesitated to show it here. Our propulsion is called improvement here, isn't it?

Quote from: artizen on December 23, 2014, 03:07:45 PM
If that is a low standard, then it makes my attempts complete rubbish! The module is so far ahead of the average standard of show displays in Australia that it would definitely win all the prizes!

Thanks, Ian - but what I said above ... Oh boy, seems I have to move to Australia for a glamour life with thong girls :D.

Quote from: Design-HSB on December 24, 2014, 01:24:22 AM
the frightening is the Volker, for example, in the German BBF came forum or rather rather not receive resonances.
For some such already praise each other out there, it's embarrassing. Especially since their models do not even meet a fraction of the quality of peoples. Therefore, Volker please keep it up.

That's why we met here, Helmut.

Some explanations about the segmental layout "Sauerland-Segmentanlage": Owner is Wolf Groote, whom I mentioned before as an author who has written books about some Sauerland narrow gauge railways. The layout is oriented toward prototype situations from two narrow gauge lines in the Sauerland area, the 'Plettenberger Kleinbahn' and the 'Hohenlimburger Kleinbahn', which had a similar kind of purpose and operation. The Plettenberg line closed down 1959, but the Hohenlimburger Kleinbahn ran until 1983.

There were some layout changes over the time due to presentation issues. This is the former layout plan


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715Module_Wolf.jpg&hash=70f7ed769a4c5f6f53dd6c8680522cc3c1828d59)


and this is the current version with improved track plan and longer routes for servicing the plant at the 'exercise module'


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715Segmentanlage_Groote-Gerisch.jpg&hash=8864a6c08e694413c9755b012de525b4a32edc04)


Neither track plan nor dimensions correspond to the prototype, but we tried to get an impression of two situations at least: The Rollwagen exchange yard from Hohenlimburg and the loco shed from Plettenberg-Eiringhausen. The latter is situated on the upper left wing's segments, the former on the vertical segments. The exercise module is situated in the lower right wing. Nearly all the trackage (Code 250) and pointwork is custom made. Green stands for standard gauge, magenta for metre gauge. The main aim is to show this special kind of operation on a working layout. Visitors' area is greenish, operating area pink-colored.

Here are some pics of the exchange yard segment:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715IMG_8312b.jpg&hash=49f17182e51bbcf1ecc7e4b0e709a881473d37c7)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715IMG_8310b.jpg&hash=919f33014288da7721e4aa7ca0c6364e153bbd04)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715IMG_8307b.jpg&hash=3603cdea845ea8a976a34a4bc9d93dd5a001150f)


And of the subsequent segment:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715IMG_8273b.jpg&hash=341ef1a0c6432bfd1e3de3769b318dee41381d45)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715IMG_8276b.jpg&hash=0a105730d9c773a8a0f70b482d08f00fcf4473fe)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715IMG_8294b.jpg&hash=539ae078cd0b1bcaedcd694c06237ff405333136)


Cheers,
Volker

Hi Volker,

thanks for posting the pics and the links to the Buntbahn forum.

Eventhough you might feel that it does not match the level of your exercise module, I think it still is very impressive.

Also your update and specifically the info on Buntbahn including the link to the "Halle Industriebahn" triggered me blow the dust of my Hohenlimburg ideas.
I lost inspiration due to the fact I could not find locomotive power either prototypical or as a basis to build further on for the concept in 1:32. The pics in the "Halle Industriebahn" of the Ko(f) II however could be a nice basis since these available in 1:32.

So thank you for the update and inspiration and I am looking forward to further updates.

Regards,
Marc

Volker,
I think these are wonderful modules, very inspiring, because they show how much skill and artistic eye is needed to make such an mundane environment of "just some tracks and cobblestones" come alive!
It is one thing to impress the viewer with gadgets like little telephones and working desk lamps, but to deliver a realistic looking track environment is an example of the "quiet power" of a true master!

Excellent work, Sir!

Christian

Quote from: Design-HSB on December 24, 2014, 01:24:22 AM
the frightening is the Volker, for example, in the German BBF came forum or rather rather not receive resonances.
For some such already praise each other out there, it's embarrassing.
Especially since their models do not even meet a fraction of the quality of peoples.

Therefore, Volker please keep it up.

Masterpieces such as yours are seldom widely praised except in communities as this one. I've often noticed that and wondered why. Perhaps it is because few people get to the level where you are, and therefore simply do not have the eye for it. In other words: If you are building trains from Duplo/Lego parts for instance, you have a quite different perspective and view of things and so it's not meant badly ...

Cheers,
Peter

Stunningly adequate and well designed. -- Russ

The sad truth is that the loudest critics can't nail flex track to plywood and glue dyed sawdust to it. 

The fact that this group sits and either drools into their beer or silently cries because the bar has been set so high that matching it is VERY hard.

Please, keep us informed in the coming year.

Hi Volker

Thanks, Ian - but what I said above ... Oh boy, seems I have to move to Australia for a glamour life with thong girls.


Today is 34 degrees C and the thong girls are down at the beach about 10 minutes away. (Turn right at the end of the street for Doug's Fish and Chips on the beach.)

You seriously undersell your abilities. This is just stunning. More please.

Quote from: BKLN on December 30, 2014, 06:15:39 AM
Volker,
I think these are wonderful modules, very inspiring, because they show how much skill and artistic eye is needed to make such an mundane environment of "just some tracks and cobblestones" come alive!
It is one thing to impress the viewer with gadgets like little telephones and working desk lamps, but to deliver a realistic looking track environment is an example of the "quiet power" of a true master!

Excellent work, Sir!

Well said! I agree completely.

Oh, my heavens! Did somebody mention beautiful girls in thong bikinis, each eager to cater to my every whim? -- Russ

Thanks, Marc, Christian, Peter, Russ, Lawton (Lawton?) and Ray,

I surrender. It is high standard.




But not quite at my usual level  ;D.




Marc, great to hear you're back on the project. I think the Köf would be well adapted for a not too complicated conversion on a free lance layout. I'm looking forward to read something about the project!

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on December 30, 2014, 09:10:43 AM
Masterpieces such as yours are seldom widely praised except in communities as this one. I've often noticed that and wondered why. Perhaps it is because few people get to the level where you are, and therefore simply do not have the eye for it. In other words: If you are building trains from Duplo/Lego parts for instance, you have a quite different perspective and view of things and so it's not meant badly ...

Peter, your assessment unfortunately already became reality ... at least here we don't have to read about modified Playmobil trains. I mean badly done. Really badly done. Thanks, Russ, for keeping an eye on quality at this forum.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on December 30, 2014, 03:03:16 PM
The sad truth is that the loudest critics can't nail flex track to plywood and glue dyed sawdust to it. The fact that this group sits and either drools into their beer or silently cries because the bar has been set so high that matching it is VERY hard. Please, keep us informed in the coming year.

Lawton, you're surely right. The biggest advantage of this forum is the quality standard of all shown modeling. I think your words match Helmut's. There's always a sender and a recipient. Be lucky if they get in tune. And yes, I will.

Quote from: artizen on December 30, 2014, 05:07:26 PM
You seriously undersell your abilities. This is just stunning. More please.

I promise. I'm referring to the 'more please' part.

Quote from: finescalerr on December 31, 2014, 12:30:45 AM
Oh, my heavens! Did somebody mention beautiful girls in thong bikinis, each eager to cater to my every whim? -- Russ

Russ, that was me. But if those australian thong girls do only cater to your every whim I'm not quite sure if it sells to move there. Damn.

Cheers,
Volker

Hello Volker,

so when I read this here, then my model building missing right.
I was just there with my little bitch and have looked longingly up at my hobby room.
Frithjof, Volker and I communicate so directly.
Nevertheless, this forum brings me a lot especially, but also by many others of you who make realistic Model after model and have process the endeavor to improve it. I like that, I'm interested in and I enjoy. Make me sad that for which Model is only good if it all possible cost nothing and was achieved with low overhead allow. The then but not really heard the result into a forum for upscale modeling, but they do not see then.

Volkers alternate work in this case is an absolutely successful compromise despite everything and is entitled for me in this forum.

Hi all,

some time ago in this thread I had shown (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1983.msg40694#msg40694) an anvil block of a normal drop hammer; back then my reference was a very bad photo from the beginning of 20th century, which does explain some detail mistakes but not my completetly wrong estimate of proportions


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_5926b.jpg&hash=928149e26b9efb77499686f6aa54bfde9f794096)


Such an anvil block rather looks like that:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8533b.jpg&hash=56db60df3ec46924190c379dd0f554556c4681bf)


My friend Wolf took some dimensions of an scrap anvil block, took photos and even found some technical drawings, which allowed to make precise CAD-Drawings. This composition shows the main parts of those hammers which still can be found at some drop forge plants:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Fallhammer.jpg&hash=ba8d17fd36c7655639b5abc9c5117249b718083f)


The anvil block and the iron hammer running between the both rods carry one part of the forging die each. The rods are held together with the slotted part. There's a leather strap running through the slot, driven bei a clutched drum, which allows to raise and release the hammer. The vertical rods are fixed with more rods and wedges via the openings in the anvil block.

The model is going to serve as freight or only just delivered good at the plant's yard. I relinquish the additional mechanical parts; some wooden boxes may indicate them. The anvil block is predestined for 3D printing because of the slots and inner intersections. A guy from buntbahn bought an own 3D printer and offered to print parts for members for a very fair price:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8456b.jpg&hash=b38f7092b0f202b21664a04fa29fc70a2db4dff5)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8458b.jpg&hash=34d4dfe34d73e4be55e756e018bdc62e2987d79b)


I think HR Giger might have got a real kick out of those "ingrown" parts ...
The main body is hollow with a wall thickness of app. 3 mm.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8484b.jpg&hash=8ab1f9f8912c0ff6db100a235d5d25bf86f05b9b)


The visible layers don't matter for this purpose and size. As I did before I used silicon carbide F360 mixed to silver Revell enamel and thinner. This allows to hide the layer structure with the particles, but the details like the lettering remain visible.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8481b.jpg&hash=dabacfa67b232a50c733755872e4be7bfc152bf6)


Next step was a layer of slate powder in a solution of water and PVA.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8506b.jpg&hash=18fdb556e891571d875e353129f381c72e4e8fd6)


Then sanding everything with fine sandpaper to even the brush traces and adding some rust traces with gouache.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8521b.jpg&hash=4e484ef3ed642ae413ec532b29d2275c6312f729)


Well, I didn't like the result at all. I missed the dark tone from back then. What went wrong? I simply used the wrong silver color. After applying another layer of Revell enamel 91, dull clear varnish 2 and quite a lot of thinner there was the desired dark tone. This time I abdicated the rust traces and restricted myself to some Terra di Sienna (natural) pigments.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8535b.jpg&hash=68cfdd10a0f0ba8004e8780f61fd7467d3f426c0)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8530b.jpg&hash=b9188954fc3e0d21662022cfcea61a19e5b2f49a)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8531b.jpg&hash=c756186a10a818f3b886124333829929f4ae4e57)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8534b.jpg&hash=7c81264378435ad1dba2576d58775eb395bd8b7c)


The cavity is filled with the same putty used for the cobblestones in the last posts.This gives some reasonable weight to the model.


Cheers,
Volker

Clever and thoughtful engineering, good choice of tools, outstanding assembly, superior results. -- Russ

Nice. The texture looks very much like cast iron.

Very nice result. Nice to see the process.

Thanks, Russ, Ray and Chuck.

Still those both rods were missing; the slotted centric round end and a 45° twisted rectangular square at the other end made it somewhat difficult to fabricate them.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Fallhammer.jpg&hash=ba8d17fd36c7655639b5abc9c5117249b718083f)

Well, here we go.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8601b.JPG&hash=47d6d68e82688d675a6298573c7c82b1ebbd5b38)


Again it started with that jerky CAD thingy.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Stangen.jpg&hash=2e61e935fa33a49b09bbe8c31cbae19b737a4a12)


The rods don't suit for 3D printing. They are a bit long and I don't trust the plastic material to be form stable over long time. Helmut and Frithjof offered their help with milling the items, but I decided to do it the old fashioned way. What else do I have a vise with prisms for?


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8580b.JPG&hash=70886b1c2511d68093d6ec6b4cd3372355147d5f)


It took one hour to file both items from hard brass. I think milling them would have taken the same time. Since those parts don't have to be functional it doesn't come down to a tenth.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8588b.JPG&hash=c7083ff43e00a43d826eae166b636aac6a754ebc)


The slotted round segments are soldered tubes of different diameters. The inner diameter of the smallest tube is a bit bigger than the slot's diameter. This tube protrudes about 5 mm. I cut the slot into the protruding tube and the other tubes down to the desired length. Then i soldered tubes to the protruding part, which serves as a jig for alignment. After some filing and sanding in the drill chuck:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8589b.JPG&hash=a5eae1f251bac474d4ba3042502e91cb79cd1731)


Some putty patches the inner cavitys.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8584b.JPG&hash=b8060d159a2cae445bb1be5ba4a727db8d74f859)


Then the rods had to be drilled centrically. This doesn't work with a simple bench drill. So I drilled about 1 mm smaller holes than needed and used a milling cutter with the Dremel to widen them by sense of proportion. The tubes are soldered to the rods. I protected the soldered and spackled parts with tooth paste against heat.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8595b.JPG&hash=9c0523fa4d469ebb42e53378619dab5a1b558195)


A test mounting showed that the parts even would fit together.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8591b.JPG&hash=f3d7a8d7905c678961b39fd2cb334b56dc557fe7)


But the items are only going to lie in the yard. For that coloring seems more important than precise shaping. The rods should get the appearence of rolled steel. After burnishing them with Gravoxide I used Humbrol silver Nr. 11 and Revell thinner for the effect.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8598b.JPG&hash=923eca14f5e18c9b934b3a984224f4b16fc08da3)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8602b.JPG&hash=0f8e0e1d185d600b69747aec44bbfb23ab3b0a04)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8605b.JPG&hash=0bb7ea60d40805ab0dd2e2e5bfabf689d887dab4)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8611b.JPG&hash=9421236121791d95a86212649dfd9d0a0d54f65f)


Cheers,
Volker

That is so convincing. I really like the degradation of the coating on the steel. And thanks for thestep by step. Its always nice to see how things get to the final wonderful result through a certain amount of trial and error.

Very nice work!

You make it look easy. -- Russ

Thanks, Narayan, Ray and Russ!

There are only a few days left until the "Lahnsteiner Modellbautage" and the electronic device for the desk lamp conked out. This gave the last impact to provide another, hidden power supply for the desk, which heretofore came via scale plug and socket. The items simply don't stand frequent plugging and unplugging. Now there was an unused current-carrying socket. This couldn't remain this way:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8634b.JPG&hash=9c683d9c7adf52e370652c0f60f75c04769e47f7)


All floor lamp parts comes straight from the scrap box. The plate was part of any plastic kit of unknown origin. The metal part carrying the stand is part of a tusche pen. Lamp shade was the reflector of an early micro flashlight. Well, the globe was a globe.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8630b.JPG&hash=0dd8acd3367ddbea586cea1398e81a2a4dd10164)


Stand consists of two soldered 1 and 0.8 mm hypodermic needles.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8631b.JPG&hash=c117162b3e6ccf332eb4fa329d63dfa0322b5b78)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8637b.JPG&hash=87a8063f3f82db7f0598d709ce0a2cd9ef45a6c9)


Cheers,
Volker

This is getting scary. Is anybody else frightened? -- ssuR

In awe - not frightened.

Astounded.

Reminds me of the movie Luxo Jr.

Chuck, go stand in the corner! -- Russ

No, don't. There's this floor lamp.

This is all terrific to follow along. I really like how you easily switch from 3D printing to hand filing to using assorted scraps to make wonderful models.

Thanks for your praise, Bill. Please excuse my delay in answering - I'm trying to add something essential every time I post. I spent a lot of time browsing your NEB&W FB page; that's a really stunning layout and I like this historical "reverse modeling" approach very much. And it's very nice to see how many people are working together there with obviously very similar notions of modeling.

Quote from: Bill Gill on February 17, 2015, 04:28:13 AM
This is all terrific to follow along. I really like how you easily switch from 3D printing to hand filing to using assorted scraps to make wonderful models.

This is a bit born out of necessity. I really would like to call a cnc mill my own, but there's no room for that at the moment.

There's a new item for the exercise module: the chairman's chair.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8910b.JPG&hash=7beec1ea6fbe9b8af4d7a1fc65be52fa308ecd98)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8916b.JPG&hash=c61ec3159eb2662b8c76dedc47dea0b3a5f99005)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8925b.JPG&hash=9da8ef3ced6cb29701062ad3f1980f70ccb34ffe)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_8929b.JPG&hash=bd1dabd02e93ce38c2f640961ad0ee4ef5969b6f)


Cheers,
Volker

Ah, I see they have giant coins in the EU too! It looks great on that full-size chair.   :)

 

Even the bottom of the chair that won't be seen (unless you are planning to model a robbery or murder scene in the office!?) is excellent. You and Helmut can go into the furniture business with the wonderful pieces.

Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Quote from: Hydrostat on April 06, 2015, 12:40:12 PMI really would like to call a cnc mill my own, but there's no room for that at the moment.

There's a new item for the exercise module: the chairman's chair.


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Hi Volker,

once again a great model of you, now I would just like to know is how it was.

Volker, this chair is very nice!

Thanks, guys!

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on April 06, 2015, 07:20:14 PMAh, I see they have giant coins in the EU too! It looks great on that full-size chair.   :)

Yes, we have them. We need them to pay for those coarse wood covered floors. You need some pretty darn big trees for that. And big money. That's it. :P

Quote from: Bill Gill on April 06, 2015, 08:52:31 PMEven the bottom of the chair that won't be seen (unless you are planning to model a robbery or murder scene in the office!?) is excellent. You and Helmut can go into the furniture business with the wonderful pieces.

Don't ask for a sense in that  ;).

Quote from: finescalerr on April 06, 2015, 11:57:21 PM
Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Thanks, Russ. I'm glad I overcame another hurdle. You're so graciously.

Quote from: Design-HSB on April 07, 2015, 02:16:17 AMHi Volker,
once again a great model of you, now I would just like to know is how it was.

Quote from: Marcel Ackle on April 08, 2015, 04:22:30 AMVolker, this chair is very nice!

Thanks, Helmut and Marcel!

It started with a 3D CAD drawing after I had found pictures and some measurments of a prototype I liked at Ebay. The CAD helps me to get a feeling of proportions and of course then provides some 2D drawings. The leftover was going to be done by hand so I confined myself with the CAD to the 'bigger' parts.


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The vertical axle is a 2 mm steel rod. The brass sheath is made from a piece of brass tubing brazed to a 0.2 mm brass plate from scrap.


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After cutting coarsely with a scissor and then chucking it with a M 2 screw to the Dremel I sanded it down to this shape. Remaining dimension of the plate is about 0.1 mm. Both the sheath and axle then were soldered to each other.


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Next step were the crossed wooden feet. Base material is some 2 mm veneer sheet drenched with very thin CA and then sanded down for a smooth surface. Printouts of the drawings on self adhesive paper serve as jigs for cutting with a jigsaw.


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I made one more to have some spare part.


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The vertical rounded part where the feet are put into is made from three layers of veneer, again drenched with CA. This was necessary to have the grain running in the right direction. I drilled a 2 mm hole into the 'sandwich', cut around it coarsely with the jigsaw and then sanded it down to shape, again using the dremel as described before. The remaining piece was long enough to have a screw half in it, which I then could use as a handle for the vice when making the slots for the feet with a diamond cutting blade. There's no fixture involved; it's exactly enough when done carefully freehand.


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Next step was glueing the feet to the slots and cutting the rounded part off at the upper side. The crossed reinforcement sheeting is cut with a small scissor from copper foil (again using a printout on self adhesive paper as jig) and has some needle punctures to suggest screws.


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The rolls should be somewhat identic. Base material was some 2 mm brass strips. I positioned them with a gap to each other and brazed a half-rounded piece of brass to it (some junk from cast parts filed down to shape). Then I'd cut between the brass strips and filed the half-rounded parts from both sides a few tenths narrower than the brass strips are. Now those strips were soldered to each other, which can be seen here. The CNC guys please do look away for the next few pictures.


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This makes it easy to file them all to nearly identic shape.


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After drilling the holes for the vertical axles, cutting them off at same length and sanding them to shape the parts were unsoldered.


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Some brass nails serve as vertical axles.


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The reinforcement plate for the seat was made from some brass washers (again using the dremel for shaping) and a piece of 0.1 mm brass sheet soldered to it. The screws are o.6 mm copper rods with rounded ends. This time a printout would not have helped to much and so the holes were all drilled freehand by sense of proportion.


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For the wooden armrests the jigs were helpful again.


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The leather seats are made of some 2 and 3 mm hard foam board (I think it's something like the Sintra stuff Ray is using for his fabulous buildings). Again some 0.6 mm copper rods serve as distance bars and screws.


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Coloring started with a mixture of Revell 364 silk matt green and 51 glossy blue enamels. When they were somewhat dry I sanded the surface to get rid of my brush traces and to have a surface accepting the next colors: a mixture of Lukas Cryl artists paint ultramarine deep and green umber. When this was dry i sanded the parts a bit and rubbed them with my fingertip to achieve some leather like surface.


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That's it.

Cheers,
Volker

Excellent!  The construction and the appearance are top notch. I hope the office only needs one chair!

Thanks for the step-by-step! Very helpful information about a great piece of work!

Good looking !

I have one in my office just like it! It's very comfortable  ;D
MPH

Beautiful work! Thanks for the detailed info.

Crazy cool! :D

Hello Volker,

so thank you very much, now with the details of the construction it is an excellent building report.  :)

Good evening, ladies and gentlemen,

last weekend the exercise module was on display and in use at the annual Schenklengsfeld 1-22.5 scale module meeting. Helmut, who had the module with him for the last weeks since the Lahnstein exhibition told me that he screwed some board to the faces for transportation issues. Somewhere in this thread I talked about my transportation problems, which now, um, seem to be solved. I was more than surprised when the piece of board turned out to be some kind of furniture - well considered and solidly fabricated:


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The subsequent segment fits to the upper shelf. The other shelf in front of the building gives room for all the detailing accessories, screws, power supplies and cables. The delicate model is much better protected than in its previous open consignment now. Well done, Helmut!

Unfortunately I didn't manage to take a chairman's chair photo  >:(. Instead we had a shooting with a Hohenlimburger Kleinbahn engine:


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I really don't like those garish LED-lights seen at most of the vehicles. Unless I missed something there seem to be no LED lights that virtually have a look like lightbulbs.

Cheers,
Volker

The module (and case) are show stoppers. -- Russ

The travel case for the module is a brilliant piece of work, as is the module itself. Love the shots of the gondola riding on the transfer car, or whatever it's called.

for "better" LED's try ngineering dot com
They/he is the most prolific site I have seen for them.

-Marty

Cool site for tiny lighting! The range of outputs is huge.

If you already have the LEDs, you could try painting them to reduce the intensity or throttling them back with a stronger resistor. Too much resistance, and they end up looking like weak candles without changing the colour output. So far, my 20cm strip of 12 x 3V LEDs have been continually lit up for over 550 hours off just two cheap alkaline AA batteries. The output is slowly diminishing but I expect to get to 600 hours before they seem too weak for interior lighting of my carriage kits (or maybe that's a good idea?).

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Okay. I'm to slow. But yes, I want to reply.

Nevertheless thank's for your hints for LED's. Maybe I'll be in the market for them soon ...

At least at German Buntbahn and here for sure, too, I told that the main building may house the company's drawing office. Since I cheated my way through the upper floor with a barren hallway with plant and a modest just as representative office with lamp this empty lower floor yawns to me. Unfortunately no computers and plotters belong to a Fiftie's drawing office but rather those old style drawing machines / boards. I found them a bit - let me say - difficult to model and not to compelling as a necessary evil. Well, I kicked it down the road, until ... I stopped kicking it down the road. It's unsatisfactory to have an unfinished exercise module :D.

First I wanted to know what a drawing board looked like in the Fifties. The Kuhlmann company from Wilhelmshaven was the most successfull and famous company at least in Germany. Of course their production ceased with computer invention and the today existing legal successor KUHLMANN Werkzeugmaschinen + Service GmbH (http://www.kuhlmann-cnc.de) makes something completely different now. My first inquiry failed because they don't have any plans or even knowledge of those drawing boards anymore. But they gave me the address of a spare part dealer, who maintaines the few remaining machines. Obviously some big companies tend to keep one "analogue" workplace for fast sketches - sometimes seems to be much faster than with CAD. But this man couldn't provide information about those ol' Fiftie's machines - but he had something much more valuable: A contact to a former Kuhlmann engineer, who developed drawing machines in the Fifties! This man was happy that someone was interested in his former work and provided all information needed for making a scale replica of a machine, which is preserved for museum purposes. Aside of some interesting distractions (I'll keep you informed) this acquaintance was the cornerstone for modeling the item, which took a long time. Here it is:


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There are only three more to come to fill the office. And some furniture and lighting ...


Cheers,
Volker

That is very nice work and a piece of equipment you don't see modeled that often...in fact, have never seen it modeled before. Well done with both the idea and its execution.

What an interesting and unusual modeling subject, and you've replicated it perfectly!

Extremely adequate. -- Russ

Just like mine except the board is a little smaller and mine is setup left-handed because I don't need specialized tools made for the right-handed.

Add a lamp on the top and a table with a cup of coffee and an ashtray on it and you are finished.

but volker
does it work?

Hi,

Bill, Ray and Russ, thank you.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on November 06, 2015, 02:10:51 PM
Just like mine except the board is a little smaller and mine is setup left-handed because I don't need specialized tools made for the right-handed.

Add a lamp on the top and a table with a cup of coffee and an ashtray on it and you are finished.

Thanks, Lawton, some kind of lighting, a technical drawing and some furniture is still to come.

Quote from: 1-32 on November 07, 2015, 10:29:25 PM
but volker
does it work?

Kim, it makes a lot of work, for sure  :D.

I didn't take too many pictures building the prototype but I'll add some when going into the series.

This was predominant CAD work. Most detail dimensions had to be estimated by the pictures I got. This made it interesting as well as time consumpting.


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Construction regards to wall thickness of 0.3 mm at Shapeways' FXD. The rods are brass with 0.5 mm, 1 mm and 1.5 mm diameter. The printed parts are quite accurate and detailed, but I feel that still it's a long way to go until one can buy affordable prints with surfaces which don't need to be reworked; have a look at the weight. That's the reason why I added the nuts of the feets' connecting rods later on as brass parts. This allows to sand this noticeable surface completely. For sure wax printing allows much more, but it doesn't pay if there's no lot in cast brass to come.


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One can see the combination of printed parts and brass rods here; the detent linkage from the footstep is still to come. I wanted to have a prototypical wall thickness of those green angle sections at the unpainted wooden parts, which is no problem if they're part of the printed body, but their other branch would be too thin. So I made them rather thick and notched the board accordingly minus the wanted wall thickness. This helps with painting, too, but please be lenient; there's room for improvement at the lot.


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Detent linkage:


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Parallelogram guides are made of 0.2 mm etched stainless steel and soldered to each other.


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Helmut kindly added two items I could not have done with my options - guess which ones!


Cheers,
Volker

What is imressive about this project is the planning to use the strengths of the various materials and processes while avoiding their shortcomings. That of of course includes having Helmut fabricate those parts that probably couldn't be done any other way.

The close up shots just leave me even more impressed!

Volker, very nice, very nice indeed. Those types of drafting machines were very handy, I used to use a north American type called Norman Wade. I still prefer a parallel rule type though.

Michael

well volker i guess it does work .i should have known better to think it is a static model.
cheers kim

Hi,

Quote from: Bill Gill on November 09, 2015, 04:12:25 AM
What is imressive about this project is the planning to use the strengths of the various materials and processes while avoiding their shortcomings. That of of course includes having Helmut fabricate those parts that probably couldn't be done any other way.

um, obviously nobody wants to guess ... Bill, of course you're right. Helmut milled the ruler with the scales from 0.5 mm Vivak and even managed to mill slots for the etched parts from both sides. The other part is the white board with the slots for the printed parts. How should I have got them that precise into the panel? For a straight panel with smooth surface 3D printing wouldn't be the best approach. Comparing both pics one can see how deep the printed part immerses into the panel:


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The slots are milled with 5/100 mm backlash. Helmut used 1 mm Pertinax and airbrushed it white. Pertinax is a long term dimensionally stable material and stronger than PS or Plexiglass, which I wanted Helmut to use in the beginning, but his choice was better for sure. The drawings for the milling process can easily be exported as *.dxf from the CAD. So are the single parts for the etchings, which then were combined in a graphics program.


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For printing all parts are linked with 1 mm rods. The spacings allow cutting the parts off the rods; for printing prposes they could nearly touch each other.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F57153D-Druckteile_Kuhlmann_Zeichenanlage-3.jpg&hash=0e9fd4cfabe02c50e14263b7fe094ccb51fb773d)


Thanks for your posts, Ray, Michael and Kim!

Cheers,
Volker

Hello everybody,

so here come the images back to the drawing board to the production to better show.

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Here, the cut-outs can be clearly seen.

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Thus since the airbrush painting any color gets into the cutouts, I milled matching filler made of brass.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8997%2F13IMG_20151008_183757b.jpg&hash=6d0224aa2aeb526c21a69156777c0610181b4ef3)
The varnished with airbrush gun back of the drawing board.

Volker & Helmut, Most excellent collaboration again!

Thanks, Bill. I'm indeed very happy about that kind of 'modeling abilities exchange' with friends, which allows me to build items (at least in lots) which I wouldn't dare to model the old fashioned way :-[.

I've got some more pics from mounting the lot. Those are the printed parts. They're cut from the printing tree and cleaned via an ultrasonic cleaner with lukewarm water and some detergent to get rid of the wax. All straight plain areas are sanded a bit. I forgot to add the parallelogram's weight and the footstep.


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The printed parts are connected with brass rods of different diameters from 0.5 to 1.5 mm. I use the caliper's depth stop as end stop to cut the rods to length with a wire cutter with sheer cutting edges.


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The linkage for the footstep (left side up) requires a bit more effort, but it is easily done with simple techniques in spite of the necessary repeatability.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Kuhlmann_Fu_trittgest_nge.jpg&hash=fab849d2370fdb7db3ad7aa9251b848f1367678b)


An 0.5 mm steel sheet with a 0.5 mm slot at the required position serves as jig. Bending starts at the linkage's lower end with a right angle. The jig now serves to create the opposite reverse angle. I'd already cut the projecting rod when I took the picture. Of course it's easier to bend the part when it's longer.


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That's the result:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9333b.jpg&hash=cccfcb082f59ed5d26a55796bc3e40eb14095540)


The outer edge serves to bend the next angle. The linkage then is positioned inverted to create the next opposite reverse angle:


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The outer edge again serves to achieve the U-shape.


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After cutting the protruding rod the linkage is done.

Two brass rods with 0.5 mm diameter strengthen and connect the footstep to the drawing table's feet. The bore is amazingly well printed in spite of the very thin surrounding wall, but it's difficult to insert the rod. Ultrasonic cleaning doesn't remove wax from such a deep bore. Drilling the wax out doesn't work, too, because an 0.5 mm drillbit's thread is only a few mm and the wax isn't transported out when the thread is inside the bore. But I found a trick: I hold the printed part under hot water when inserting the rod. The wax starts to soften and the rod easily slides through.


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Quote from: 1-32 on November 07, 2015, 10:29:25 PM
but volker
does it work?

Well, Kim, don't you think that's an overcharged request? Uh-oh: click me (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlnE60ODqUo).

Cheers,
Volker

I'll take the approach Russ might take. Satisfactory!
Wow! I find bending wire a major challenge but this gives me some ideas that might help in the future.
That's one of the things I really appreciate about this site. A novice like me keeps learning new approaches to tasks.....Allan

It is comforting to see that some of your techniques are as simple as a piece of scrap metal with a notch in it.  It gives hope to those of us who can only dream of doing work on your level.

Your photos, drawings, and text are a terrific tutorial. Thank you. -- Russ

Hi,

Quote from: Allan G on November 21, 2015, 07:05:25 AM
I'll take the approach Russ might take. Satisfactory!
Wow! I find bending wire a major challenge but this gives me some ideas that might help in the future.
That's one of the things I really appreciate about this site. A novice like me keeps learning new approaches to tasks.....Allan

thanks, Allan. Helmut offered to mill a jig for the linkage but often there's a simple solution one can achieve with one's own capabilities. I'm glad you benefit from that basic description.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on November 21, 2015, 08:10:01 AM
It is comforting to see that some of your techniques are as simple as a piece of scrap metal with a notch in it.  It gives hope to those of us who can only dream of doing work on your level.

Thanks, Lawton. What I said above. I have to add that there's some additional work with a spiky eyelet plier required to reach a right angle, because the rods tend to bend back a bit, but the jig doesn't offer more than a right angle at the slot. The most difficult part was the slot itself because my jigsaw's blade is a bit narrower than 0.5 mm. I had to widen the slot with sandpaper which wasn't fun :D. About 'level': Come on. I think I'm in good company here at finescalerr. I know I am 8).

This summer I got a small package from the States by Marty. I was surprised and overwhelmed to find a neat little gift inside - no, let me say 'award', and arranged it with the completed drawing table and another item in the office. Thanks again, Marty! I hope you guys recognize what it is ...


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About the other item: It's part of the interesting distraction mentioned in the very first post about the drawing table. Mr. Wackerfuss, the former Kuhlmann engineer, has been restoring a ship model of the four-masted barque Ponape (former Regina Elena) since 1996. His father built it in WWI during war imprisonment on the Isle of Man. He worked as sailesman on the ship. They were delivering niter from Chile to England and didn't know that a war had broken out when their ship was brought up by british navy. He built the ship from a piece of mahogany wood and beef bone and got a honorary certificate for it in the camp. At the end of imprisonment he managed to transport the disassembled ship in a wooden box to Germany. It 'sleeped' in there from 1918 until 1942 when he decided to rig it, which took four weeks. It then stood on a kitchen cabinet. The second half of the year 1943 brought a british air raid. A stick-type incendiary bomb hit their home and got stuck in the cabinet. When they opened the kitchen door the bomb started burning. They tried to recover the model but it was badly damaged and only hull and some masts survived.

Mr. Wackerfuss asked me to model the ship's figurehead what he felt to be beyond his abilities. I tried my best after I got some pictures from swedish Aland Maritime Museum and came to an result he was pleased with. I have to admit that I really do admire modelers who create their own figurines in a believable manner. For me the most difficult part was to model it in a given size to fit into the available space at the ship. The result is a bit clinched and the proportions of face and hands don't really work, but we considered his father's situation and abilities when the original model ship was built. Unfortunately I didn't have a chance to see the amazing ship model first hand and only have some hard copied color pics which don't suit to be shown here.


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Quote from: finescalerr on November 21, 2015, 11:35:35 AM
Your photos, drawings, and text are a terrific tutorial. Thank you. -- Russ

Russ, you deliberatedly forgot to mention me showing off in the youtube clip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlnE60ODqUo)? -- rekloV

Volker, congratulations on the "award" from Marty. Thank you for posting the link to your YouTube video. It was terrific to see the table in action.

The figrehead looks very good. Once upon a time I worked at a maritime museum and there was an exhibit of figureheads of varying degrees of skill. The proportions of the figures were often distorted for the same reasons that you found: the finished piece had to fit the ship. The poses the figures strike are not very natural, so the carver had to find away to put it all together. Sometimes features were exaggerated in order to be more visible from a distance.

You said that you "modeled" the figurehead, did you sculpt it out of some material or did you carve it out of some kind of wood or other material?

Thanks, Bill.

That's an interesting point about figurehead's artistic qualities. I forgot to mention that the Ponape figurehead is preserved in that swedish museum. It's the only part remaining from the ship at all, if I got it right. I'm happy I can't show the pictures, because you'd see the differences immediately :D! But what might the result then in the camp have been? Without having a picture at hand - only your memory?

Regarding 'modeling' (a German word for sculpting is 'modellieren' so I didn't get the ambiguousness :P) I used Fimo (http://www.staedtler.de/de/produkte/produkte-zum-modellieren-kneten-basteln/fimo-classic/fimo-classic-8000-ofenhaertende-modelliermasse-normalblock/) from German Staedtler company to sculpt it, which hardens in the oven. The figurehead had to be hollow or at least a rounded slot at it's back and my first try was sculpted on a plastic box. The plasticizers from the material dissolved it after two days pausing ... next time i used plastic tubing of appropriate diameter and hurried up to get it into the oven. It worked but it still was a bit difficult to separate both materials. I found out that one can bend the baked parts to a certain extent, when it's heated up again which helped to finally form the rear dress part. I milled a slot in the backside and glued a piece of copper sheeting to it, which will serve as fixture at the ship.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9312b.jpg&hash=f43680f3f304692643bff10a5393c311c4240c9f)

Cheers,
Volker

Quote from: Hydrostat on November 21, 2015, 06:23:52 AM

Quote from: 1-32 on November 07, 2015, 10:29:25 PM
but volker
does it work?

Well, Kim, don't you think that's an overcharged request? Uh-oh: click me (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlnE60ODqUo).

Cheers,
Volker

Holy cow! As a static model this would be fantastic, the fact it actually WORKS is truly astounding!

Thanks for the tips on bending the rods for this. Very helpful information!

The figurehead sculpture is very nice, good job!

well blow me down it works-nice
kind regards kim

Volker, Excellent 'modellieren' on the figurehead. I used Fimo to make a truck load of apples for the back of one of the HO scale pickup trucks I did. I liked how it worked. Some colors of the Fimo were kneaded together completely to make a new shade of red and others to make a new shade of green, then those two were blended, but not completely. That way when rolled out to make the individual apples, they already had the mix of colors already and needed no painting. The paint on your figurehead looks like many I saw at the museum.

What a great story about that ship model!

I just (unsuccessfully) attempted some sculpting on a model project myself, so I am even more impressed with your results! Very nice!

That easel...that easel...that easel...Wow wow wow. Really beautiful Volker.

Volker the working easel is very sharp..... Now you need to do another video doing a drawing on it ;D

Michael

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on November 22, 2015, 07:19:52 PM
Holy cow! As a static model this would be fantastic, the fact it actually WORKS is truly astounding!
Thanks for the tips on bending the rods for this. Very helpful information!
The figurehead sculpture is very nice, good job!

Ray,
thank you. I'm glad you like both items. Getting the table working isn't that tricky as it seems, as you will see.

Quote from: 1-32 on November 22, 2015, 11:05:20 PM
well blow me down it works-nice
kind regards kim

;D

Quote from: Bill Gill on November 23, 2015, 05:10:04 AM
Volker, Excellent 'modellieren' on the figurehead. I used Fimo to make a truck load of apples for the back of one of the HO scale pickup trucks I did. I liked how it worked. Some colors of the Fimo were kneaded together completely to make a new shade of red and others to make a new shade of green, then those two were blended, but not completely. That way when rolled out to make the individual apples, they already had the mix of colors already and needed no painting. The paint on your figurehead looks like many I saw at the museum.

Bill,
I followed your SBS back then; it is much more difficult to sculpt in such a small scale and your results are all the more impressive. Your approach is very clever. For sure you would not have reached the same crisp result by painting sculpted apples afterwards.

Quote from: BKLN on November 24, 2015, 12:58:01 AM
What a great story about that ship model!
I just (unsuccessfully) attempted some sculpting on a model project myself, so I am even more impressed with your results! Very nice!

Christian,
thank you, but some other guys here have rather proven prowess on that. Indeed I dared to ask if they have a 3D scanner at the museum  :D.

Quote from: nk on November 25, 2015, 10:39:40 AM
That easel...that easel...that easel...Wow wow wow. Really beautiful Volker.

Narayan,
thank you. But please help me: What is the correct english word for that item? I thought an easel was rather a painter's scaffold?

Quote from: michael mott on November 26, 2015, 08:03:03 PM
Volker the working easel is very sharp..... Now you need to do another video doing a drawing on it ;D
Michael

Don't call me out, Michael. This would end up with a lot of photoshopping and Russ sending me to the corner  ;D.



The following pictures show the basic process for making the parallelogram work. Premise is using stainless steel for the etched parts (those are 0.2 mm thick) and brass rivets for connections. I take advantage of the stainless steel accepting solder only with special solder fluids, for example Griffon S39 RVS Inox, and brass accepting every kind of typical soldering fluids. First step is to tin the backside of the rear steel part using the Inox soldering fluid. After cleaning it under water the bores have to be redrilled, because they're filled with solder. A brass rivet serves to join front and rear part. Now the brass rivet is brushed with usual soldering fluid so the tin on the back part will connect with the brass rivet, but not with the front steel part. To avoid solder sticking to the front part which sometimes happens I use an edding to blacken it, which prevents any chemical reactions/oxidation. Then the protruding rivet rods have to be cut and the surface needs some sanding with the Dremel; one will not see this side later on.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9418b.jpg&hash=471ec4eb164957567308d549e3a3c29f2675afa4)


The tinned steel part put together with brass rivet.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9400b.jpg&hash=fc4083234fe11fdebf46d3341d7bda506a2fd423)


Brushing solder fluid to the brass rivets. Note: the lower middle part is not tinned at that bore!


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9402b.jpg&hash=29a8b6a67c56d25d84bad7f8dca11d2be5546a70)


Soldering.


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Done and ...


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... sanded.


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Some parts need additional washers to create spacing for the rivet heads passing by.


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The washers were etched from steel, too, but it is nearly impossible to remove the connecting stripes without remaining sharp edges. There's no way to hold them tightly. For me at least. But there's a simple trick: The washer bores have 0.4 mm. I soldered a broken 0.4 mm drill bit to a small brass tubing and lined a lot of washers up on it. The brass tubing is necessary, because the Dremel doesn't chuck 0.4 mm.


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I use thin CA to fix the washers to the drill bit.


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Using wet sandpaper prevents the parts from heating up to much and the CA to vaporize.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9392b.jpg&hash=66ce47b7499e0360a8e50a8f98be107c65897f6b)


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Heating up the assembly with a torch after sanding makes the CA vaporize and the washers can be removed easily.

Cheers,
Volker

You really are in a rare class of artists and craftsmen, Volker. Incidentally, the soldering block has an interesting texture and might be useful as a modeling material. -- Russ

Volker I shall file away that method of dealing with the washers, a clever one for sure.

Michael

Fascinating! I really like that idea about making the washers.

Yes, very creative way to make all those washers!

Volker; Your skills are amazing! I especially liked the YouTube posts.....Allan

Thanks, Russ, Michael, Ray, Bill and Alan.


About the drawing machine's rack linkage:

Two linkage parts and brass screw imitations are glued to the weight with CA.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9436b.jpg&hash=c51a7723e9c9d764506c22e6692d8f0bba237ff9)


A 0.5 mm brass rod connects both linkage parts. The parts are a bit warped but this will disappear when all parts are lined up on the connecting rods.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9439b.jpg&hash=8a73f92c15fb324bd5e1f38431193ae5b0b61c0c)


Parts for the brake assembly which keeps the table in it's desired position. The lever is etched from 0.2 mm stainless steel like the parallelogram is. The short rod serves as connection of those parts with the foot and as pivot for the lever.


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Parts preassembled on a 1.5 mm brass rod and glued with thin CA.


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Some more rack linkage:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_9454b.jpg&hash=db295ac959dd0e09482f74292d4e985b9134aef8)


And that's what it looks like after painting. All versatile parts simply aren't glued to the connecting rods. The bores are tight enough to keep the parts in position but allowing movements.


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All 6 machines done. Now I'm waiting for Helmut's boards ...


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There was a a rotating stamp rack to come for my chairman's desk. That's the prototype and, um, the model.


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It is an assembly of two printed parts (knob and stand), a connecting 0.3 mm rod and the etched plate. The ashtray and stamps are printed, too. The parts are blackened with an edding. I had the parts ceramic filled printed in prototype quality at my provider for master forms, which I've described here (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2355.msg47803#msg47803).


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Cheers,
Volker

Volker brilliant absolutely brilliant.....that said where is the print of the stamp?  inquiring minds want an answer.

michael

Most of you guys don't realize it but you're really geniuses. I'm serious! Genius comes in many forms and when I stand back and look at the incredible work done on this forum it's unreal. There may be folks out there who do work approaching the quality of work I see here everyday but nobody does it better!!!! Congratulatory note to follow.....Allan

all chant;
"we are not worthy"........

looks really good volker

Amazing. Simply amazing.

I simply can't believe Volker is that good. His mom must be helping him! -- Russ

QuoteNarayan,
thank you. But please help me: What is the correct English word for that item? I thought an easel was rather a painter's scaffold?

Volker I think you can call this an easel, or more correctly a drafting table.

Your work on all these tiny details is amazing. Nice work on the ashtray and the stamp rack
Narayan

Volker,

I think the best term is Designer drawing board, if you give the phrase into Google, you get to also matching images.

Hi all,

those pics are my good bye for 2015. I hope 2016 will be fine for us all with enough time and leisure for modeling. Thanks to all for your criticism and support! Special thanks to Russ for bringing such a bunch of interesting people together all over the world. Well, nearly. Let me kindly say: predominantly all over the western hemisphere.


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Quote from: michael mott on December 08, 2015, 02:55:10 PM
Volker brilliant absolutely brilliant.....that said where is the print of the stamp?  inquiring minds want an answer.
michael

Michael, it's the black bar one often sees when people should not be discernable in newspapers, tv shows and forums.

Quote from: Allan G on December 08, 2015, 03:11:40 PM
Most of you guys don't realize it but you're really geniuses. I'm serious! Genius comes in many forms and when I stand back and look at the incredible work done on this forum it's unreal. There may be folks out there who do work approaching the quality of work I see here everyday but nobody does it better!!!! Congratulatory note to follow.....Allan

Allan, that's a very high praise for all the people showing their work here at finescalerr.

Quote from: lab-dad on December 08, 2015, 04:49:44 PM
all chant;
"we are not worthy"........

Marty, for my own good I hope your chanting is comparable to your modeling  :D.

Thanks, Kim and Ray.

Quote from: finescalerr on December 09, 2015, 10:34:33 AM
I simply can't believe Volker is that good. His mom must be helping him! -- Russ

Yes she does. Every morning. Changing into trousers would be and keep being a task for every mature man otherwise.

Thanks Narayan and Helmut.

Cheers!
Volker

Nothing in the photos of the drafting easel suggests we are looking at a model and the only give-away in the desk photo is the out of scale wood grain. Amazing. -- Russ

morning all
happy 2016, sydney had the midnight, new year 6 hours ago another 3 hours to europe,slowly creeping around the globe.
volker love the masking tape on the drawing.
cheers kim

Volker, One of those drawing boards is fantastic. five more exactly like it is ...impossible...except, you have demonstrated it isn't. Wonderful! Happy New Year!

Hi Volker

I used a drawing board much like one of those when I was a cadet draftsman. Same kind of arm and pedestal, except the board was made of pine. They were lovely machines, I wish owned one today!

Absolutely superb miniature drawing office!

Happy new year!

Jaw = Dropped!

That is just so incredibly amazing!!

Hi,

the model is on display from March 11 -13 at Ontraxs (http://www.spoorwegmuseum.nl/evenementen/on-traxs) in Utrecht / the Netherlands. Time to change it's 'working title' to it's future name: quiet earth. I'm very happy to meet Kim (1-32) from Australia before and at the show, who will be giving me a hand with transport down the stairs.

Some pictures of the drawing office's current state:


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All lamps are plugged into those little sockets for maintenance purposes  ::). Unbelievable how long plugging a plug to a socket can take. Not to mention eight plugs ... All those out of scale sockets are hidden behind the desks. Note the discolored LED left hand. I'll leave it for it's somewhat strange appearance. The effect in the picture is stronger than by own sight.


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Cheers,
Volker

Amazing!
Wish I could see it in person.
I believe at this point I owe you a pint or two ( at the very least).
Marty

That is spectacular Volker!

Exquisite! Truly a marvel of modeling!

Excellent!

i am in training volker

Absolutely disgusting. -- Russ

and Volker did you thought possible when you started the business?

I can still remember that you really no longer wanted to build on the module on.
As perfect as it is now, much more came of it as a final exercise.

Wonderful!

Wonderful, an impressive composition and almost mystical staging that is presentet here by the artist! I can almost hear the slurring steps of the cleaning lady in the staircase ...

Amazing pictures !

Thanks a lot for your praise. It's really appreciated. Feels like taking a warm shower in an empty world ;). There are zoomable pictures at my Flickr page: click me. (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127693441@N06/sets/72157652063593002)

Quote from: lab-dad on February 14, 2016, 03:47:03 PM
I believe at this point I owe you a pint or two ( at the very least).

No, you don't, but you're welcone! I hope one day we forum people will have an opportunity to meet each other. This would be something ...

Volker

Volker; INCREDIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ....Allan

Those pictures are  :o !!!!

Truely incredible and inspirational !

Wow, just wow. I worked at one of these for many years. Superb workmanship!

It's very fantastic !

Not only the sound of the cleaning lady coming up the steps, but didn't you also smell the wax floor polish, and the last guy out of the room should have turned out the lights.

Brilliant assembly of extremely fine work Volker.

Michael

Hi,

thanks for your nice words. I think I can call this model done. I added some books and drawings to the drawing office's desks and may add some pencils later on but that's it. If so I'll post some pictures.

Here are some pictures taken at OntraXS in a very rare moment of a special kind of skewed light incidence during a few afternoon minutes.


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Considering all the other model railways at the show I was a somewhat strange foreigner with a vehicle free model. But a lot of people took a second look after first rushing past and I was amazed to see so many people touched by this drawing office as a remembrance to their past.

Thanks for your advice, criticism and feedback along that project.

Cheers,
Volker

Loved watching it come together!
I bet it is very moving to see in person.
-Marty

Anybody who did NOT stop and look carefully isn't worth talking to. It is an adequate diorama. -- Russ

Beautiful pics.

Inspiring work!

Eric Zabilka
Wilmore KY

Beautiful modeling and good photos!

This has been a wonderful project. I have enjoyed seeing it come together, and how you have designed and built your details.

Volker,  Congratulations on completing this incredible project. Your attention to detail is equaled by your overall vision and it come together so well. I have loved watching the progress. Thank you.

Thanks a lot, guys.

Obviously it's time for a cliffhanger placement: My advisory former Kuhlmann engineer told me about some flaws in the drawing office's execution which I'm going to fix to have a model at least close to museum quality. I'll keep you updated as soon as there's something to show.

Cheers,
Volker

Very interesting enjoyed every bit of it - lovely stuff
Barney

Quote from: Hydrostat on May 08, 2016, 02:00:39 AM
Thanks a lot, guys.

Obviously it's time for a cliffhanger placement: My advisory former Kuhlmann engineer told me about some flaws in the drawing office's execution which I'm going to fix to have a model at least close to museum quality. I'll keep you updated as soon as there's something to show.

Cheers,
Volker

Just returning from a visit to the Lyon Museum of Cinema and Miniatures I can assure you that your work is definitively of museum quality. That drawing office would fit right in the museum. During my visit at the museum I was actually thinking that you should contact them, I would think that they would love to display your work.

Look forward to see what the flaws are, it is hard to imagine that the drawing office could be improved in any way!

Hauk,

please excuse my late reply. I had some surgery a few weeks ago and wasn't able to work at the model. Main point is alignment of the drafting tables. They have to be turned about 180° because the way they're installed at the present time light from the windows would create shadows of the drawer's right arm at the drawings. So natural light source always had to be left hand from drawers view. This has to be done at the model.

The other, more difficult point is that my consulting former Kuhlmann engineer, Mr. Wackerfuss, told me of special desks for larger offices, which could be aligned right behind the next drafting table. They had clearance for the neighbour's drafting table's weight, some drawers and a larger shelf for the biggest drawings. I made a cad drawing according to some measurements I got from him, but there's no picture available at all. I'm a bit hesitant to model those because in my estimation their design looks rather like late 1960s or even 1070s, which doesn't match my 1950s era - but I'm not sure about it. Maybe some of you guys might add some information to that? That's what they seem to have looked like:

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According to Mr. Wackerfuss there were more "professional" tables like the simple wooden ones I used and the drawers all had swivel chairs. But: When I researched the web for pictures of drawing offices from this era I often found rooms which were rather moneysaving equipped like the one I made: With simple wooden tables and chairs. Making this a perfect 'Kuhlmann show room' would mean to replace all furniture, and I'm not to sure, if it would really add to the model. If there are some opinions about it I'd be pleased to discuss them.

Cheers,
Volker

Hi,

earlier this year some interested people at German Buntbahn forum asked me to make a 1-22.5 scale brass version of the Kuhlmann drawing table. From this campaign remained five complete sets, containing unwrought brass castings, brass and steel wires, brass nuts and rivets, 3D printed and milled plastic and pertinax parts. I don't want to call it 'kit' because it's for sure not suited for unexperienced modelers. To get an idea of what there's to be expected please have a look at the 'construction manual' here: http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=12579 (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=12579). It's in German, but I'd be happy to translate it to English if needed. The gross price for one set is 155,- € excluding shipment. If there's anyone interested please contact me via the forum. First come, first served.

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Cheers,
Volker

I chickened out of this for a long time. Now there's some work on the desk. Or is it 'at the desks'?

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Cheers,
Volker

Wow! I can see how that would be a daunting project!

Somewhat impressive. -- Russ

uh.

     Rather then turn the equipment around, simply tell people that yours is a specialty design firm that only hires left handed draftsmen.  As far as I am concerned, the tables were ok, but the drafting machines needed to be placed on the other end of the board.  Being a "lefty" myself, light over the right shoulder is the natural way to do things. 

     When are you going to add the 2 most important items in the department; the water fountain and the coffee pot? 
 

Quote from: Lawton Maner on October 13, 2017, 11:17:28 AM
     Rather then turn the equipment around, simply tell people that yours is a specialty design firm that only hires left handed draftsmen.  As far as I am concerned, the tables were ok, but the drafting machines needed to be placed on the other end of the board.  Being a "lefty" myself, light over the right shoulder is the natural way to do things. 

     When are you going to add the 2 most important items in the department; the water fountain and the coffee pot? 
 

They have that 'clean desk' principle out there. No coffee pots allowed. ;D
When I had the opportunity to lasercut all the windows' parts for the other project there was some sheet area available which I didn't want to have unused. I wanted to have the desks as simply manufactured as possible, but didn't want to omit any detail. The drawer handles are 3D-printed. All other parts are lasered from 1 and 0.5 mm cardboard, the steel frame and legs from 1.5 mm MDF. Drawer layers have square cutouts to house the handles and to ease mounting and aligning. I used aluminum angle section and blocks for rectangular results. After glueing all parts to the first desk I realized that first coloring wooden and metal part before glueing makes things much easier.

For sure using square brass rod would lead to a more even surface, but as said before I wanted to keep it simply.

Cheers,
Volker

It's always so awesome !

Boxes are glued with Elmer's Glue, drawer parts with very thin CA. Edges and low sides of the upper desk part were sanded rectangular afterwards.

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I'm going to color them the same way as tables in the drawing office were done (scroll down a few posts).

Cheers,
Volker

IKEA may sue over this obvious copy of their knockdown furniture.   :D

Quote from: Stoker on October 21, 2017, 10:43:29 AM
IKEA may sue over this obvious copy of their knockdown furniture.   :D

You may be right (the desk's name is 'Snuskpelle'). I preferred to camouflage it rudimentarily, arranged it in an unexpected manner and renamed it to 'Sergeant Hightower'.

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Cheers,
Volker

WOW!!! That looks fantastic. I love the subtle wood grain.

Very beautiful paint !

Great modeling as usual but, for stealing the name "Sergeant Hightower" from a movie ... go stand in the corner! -- Russ

Excellent as always. But, if it truly is modeled on knockdown furniture, where are the 2-3 leftover parts/desk? (Perhaps in the back of one of the drawers?)

Hi Volker

I may well remember, that back in my aircraft modeling times, there were a lot of different woodgrain techniques. One of them ist the use of oil paint over a acrylic basie. How did YOU do that phantastic worn-out tabletops?

Cheers, Peter

Shaaazaam! I had my doubts about how convincing the legs would be based on seeing the assembled but still raw burnouts, but you really got it right.

Thanks guys.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 27, 2017, 06:05:43 PM
WOW!!! That looks fantastic. I love the subtle wood grain.

From a distance it may look alright. Honestly I avoided closeups because they'll reveal the grain as brush traces. I plan to hide some not to well parts of the desks with blueprints.

Quote from: finescalerr on October 28, 2017, 12:37:09 AM
Great modeling as usual but, for stealing the name "Sergeant Hightower" from a movie ... go stand in the corner! -- Russ

Don't tell IKEA. They may start a new campaign with movie base named furniture. And for sure they won't remunerate me for the idea. In that special case I don't set no great store by being trucked for the idea, too.

Quote from: Bill Gill on October 28, 2017, 05:28:54 AM
Excellent as always. But, if it truly is modeled on knockdown furniture, where are the 2-3 leftover parts/desk? (Perhaps in the back of one of the drawers?)

:D. The fourth desk IS the leftover part.

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on October 28, 2017, 08:42:24 AM
Hi Volker

I may well remember, that back in my aircraft modeling times, there were a lot of different woodgrain techniques. One of them ist the use of oil paint over a acrylic basie. How did YOU do that phantastic worn-out tabletops?

Cheers, Peter

That's exactly what I've done. I started with two layers of Revell 36 382 wood brown silk matt acrylic color and added some three or four layers of Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd colour Burnt Sienna, slightly thinned with white spirits. A first attempt with a somewhat stiffer brush resulted in to strong stripes and so another attempt (and additional layers) with a wide soft flat brush led to the result seen here. Alkyd colors remain somewhat translucent, which adds to the polished wood appearance. I didn't like working with them during my arts studies, because it didn't fit my kind of painting, but nowadays i love them for the depth they bring more and more with each layer.
The tabletops were cut from MDF which has a rather rough texture/surface compared to cardboard. The worn out effect at the edges results from grabbing the desks with my latex gloves covered fingers although the English gentlemen haven't been dry completely, which takes a week or so ...

Cheers,
Volker

From february 16 to 18 there's an exhibition of contemporary art photography in the town of Duesseldorf, Germany. I'm going to show photographies mostly relating to the 'Quiet earth' project; please search the site for 'Morello'.

English version:
http://www.duesseldorfphotoweekend.de/?lg=en
(http://www.duesseldorfphotoweekend.de/?lg=en)
German version:
http://www.duesseldorfphotoweekend.de/?lg=de
(http://www.duesseldorfphotoweekend.de/?lg=de)
Quotation: 'The studio collective Morello consists of an informal association of artists who are using the spaces in a collaborative and multifunctional manner for both work and exhibition purposes. A shared trait of their respective work is found in a common interest in the aspects of modelling.'

Cheers,
Volker

A former forum member, Ken Hamilton, and one we recently heard from, Narayan, have sold dioramas though art shows and apparently the patrons consider their work sculptures. No reason you can't get an international reputation as an artist, too. -- Russ

hi Volker.
have a great weekend, love contemporary photography such a record of personalities habits history and habits.
cheers Kim

It was a very interesting experience with a lot of inspiring conversations. There were nearly 1.000 visitors within those three days. Two of them asked, if the pictures were taken of models. No one else got it. Most of the people thought they were made using tilt shift lenses. Rik Neu_West (Uwe Alexander Kirsten), an artist exhibiting at the same place, showed blown up pictures of flagstones, which somehow matched my topic very well:


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Photography: Uwe Alexander Kirsten

It didn't 'help' to have this chair exhibited nearby; people looked at the pictures, discovered the chair and said 'look, that's funny'. I had to tell a lot about miniatures, but I'm very happy that a lot of people liked the pictures without initially understanding, what they see.

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Photography: Uwe Alexander Kirsten

Pictures are photo prints on Fuji Crystal Archive glossy paper, mounted to Alu Dibond (a sandwich material consisting of aluminum covers and a plastic sheet).

Volker

Hi Volker,

maybe you like to present us the pictures shown separately. Because your work is simply great, just on the overview, unfortunately, not recognizing what you showed. I would have presented a picture from the office over the Chair. The picture of the lantern is also uniquely beautiful, only there some probably lacked the connection to the model and no light has gone up, as one says in German.

Your work belongs in an art museum.

It is easy to understand why many people might never realize the photos are of miniatures. I presume some thought you built a couple of miniatures of what they thought were full size objects in your photos.

Russ

My desk chair is the exact model ! It's a 50's classic green vinyl my wife hates it! I love it!
MPH

I agree with Russ, I'll bet most people thought you made a model of what was in one of your presumably full-size photos. They "saw" what they thought they were seeing. I would take it as the highest form of compliment: the viewers never even remotely thought the photos were of models.

hi Volker how are perhaps the photos are a bit lost in such a room but your chair , a real stand out in 3 d form ,great
cheers kim

Very cool!

Hi Volker, I think the photos look fantastic. They show things in a way that you cant see on a model, and also have their own atmosphere. There is a photographer, David Leventhal,  who has based his entire career of photographing models (very clearly models). I am just letting you know you are in good company. Congratulations on the exhibition and the attendance.
Narayan

Thanks a lot for your kind words!

Quote from: Design-HSB on February 21, 2018, 03:40:55 AM
Hi Volker,

maybe you like to present us the pictures shown separately. Because your work is simply great, just on the overview, unfortunately, not recognizing what you showed. I would have presented a picture from the office over the Chair. The picture of the lantern is also uniquely beautiful, only there some probably lacked the connection to the model and no light has gone up, as one says in German.

I've shown more or less all pictures from the exhibition in this Quiet earth thread. You can have a look at the 10 elected ones here: https://www.flickr.com/people/127693441@N06/ (https://www.flickr.com/people/127693441@N06/).

Quote from: finescalerr on February 21, 2018, 11:47:51 AM
Your work belongs in an art museum.
It is easy to understand why many people might never realize the photos are of miniatures. I presume some thought you built a couple of miniatures of what they thought were full size objects in your photos.
Russ

Interesting idea, but most peopel didn't connect the chair to the pictures at all.

Quote from: Mr Potato Head on February 21, 2018, 12:52:57 PM
My desk chair is the exact model ! It's a 50's classic green vinyl my wife hates it! I love it!
MPH

Please provide a picture of it  ;D! That would make a nice arrangement with both chairs ...

Quote from: Bill Gill on February 21, 2018, 03:06:29 PM
I agree with Russ, I'll bet most people thought you made a model of what was in one of your presumably full-size photos. They "saw" what they thought they were seeing. I would take it as the highest form of compliment: the viewers never even remotely thought the photos were of models.

You may be right. Indeed I'm not after the superficial impact, that it has been modeled in a "good" or "convincing" way. Deception of perception rather is the game: To see another reality than people think to see.

Quote from: 1-32 on February 21, 2018, 04:31:47 PM
hi Volker how are perhaps the photos are a bit lost in such a room but your chair , a real stand out in 3 d form ,great
cheers kim

Yeah, next aim is Tate Gallery  :D.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on February 22, 2018, 10:02:55 PM
Very cool!

Ray, thank you!

Quote from: nk on February 24, 2018, 07:41:52 PM
Hi Volker, I think the photos look fantastic. They show things in a way that you cant see on a model, and also have their own atmosphere. There is a photographer, David Leventhal,  who has based his entire career of photographing models (very clearly models). I am just letting you know you are in good company. Congratulations on the exhibition and the attendance.
Narayan

Narayan, you pretty much nailed it. That's why to me photography is an inextricable part of my work. I got a bit tired of showing the model at model shows, exactly because of that point. I had a look at David Leventhals work. It seems there are even more artists around relating to modeling, somehow. Do you know Thomas Demand's work?

Cheers,
Volker

I'm sure here's the right place to post this: of course everybody planned a trip to Germany this week anyway. 'Quiet earth' and some of my photo art together with Wolf Dietrich Grootes 'Sauerland-Segmentanlage' (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=10977)is on show at Intermodellbau (https://www.intermodellbau.de/en/home/) in Dortmund from April 4-7, stand D16, hall 4.  Would be great to meet somebody from the finescalerr community out there. Don't miss to visit Marcel Ackle at stand A36, hall 4 (Verlagsgruppe Bahn VGB), where he's goimg to show his working process live and sign his books.

Please report on the show and include a few photos. I am curious whether the people there were as impressed with your display as we are. -- Russ

For an exhibition next year the organizer asked to have some train movements on the model. I first planned to add a simple black painted board with some straight track to be able to operate the factory yard, but then decided to do something prototypical. This is the start of the Wiesenthal stop of the Plettenberg railway. In the last weeks I made a wooden segment box and started with a steel sleeper switch, which is going to be mostly buried under gravel later on so don't worry about some shortcomings.


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Cheers and all the best for next year!
Volker

Looks great Volker pitty you have to bury it in ballast.
cheers

I'm glad you're adding to the railroad and can't wait to see what you build. -- Russ

Looking good!

Verry nice job, Volker!
Bernhard

Thanks, Kim, Russ, Ray and Bernhard.

The model is on show at 'Model Train Luxembourg' from February 22. - 23.


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Looks like it won't be boring up to that date. Subsequent to the switch is the Wiesenthal stop with waterbound cover. The steel sleeper track is faked in that area.  


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For coloring the iron parts I started with some leather brown acrylics and then applied a first layer of real rust, which I make on an old, well rusting bakingplate, using a stiff brush to get some very fine powder. The rust step needs to be repeated when all landscaping is done, because the PVA from glueing ballast changes its appearance.


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This sort of ballasting is why the switch didn't need to be detailed completely:


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I like those areas with mixing materials from Ballast to gravel and dust.


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Left hand there's the waterbound covered 'platform'. All the textures are the base for later detailing/coloring.


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When they built the railroad at that area a slope needed to be cut for the line. The slope consists of clay shale. There's a ditch alongside the track, leading to a concrete duct.


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A grid prevents larger stones and brunches to fall into ...


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... because the ductwork is a bit sparse.


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Right hand is the transition to 'quiet earth' and so I had to continue some Elements from that model: cobbled tracks, a stone wall and a footpath rectangular to the track.


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Modeling the clay shale is a defiance, but i think this might work according to the texture. Coloring will be another challenge, but my primary goal now is to have this part in a somewhat presentable state at the exhibition at all.  


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Cheers,
Volker

Nothing less than what one would expect from you; extremely adequate. Watching it all come together will be a lot of fun. -- Russ

Excellent work! I like the fact that you've actually modeled the prototypical appearance of the ballast, soil, and stone. Too often this stuff isn't given much thought.

Looks great Volker love the drain.

Great job! The ballasted switcht looks incredibly realistic.
Bernhard

Mind blowing stuff -Excellent
Barney

Some quick and dirty smartphone pics:


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Cheers,
Volker

Adequate. -- Russ

Update; more pictures to come after the exhibition next week:

I want to have a slope overgrown with broom. I'm still fiddling around with the method for making the broom, but I think it's on a good way.

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Cheers,
Volker

It's looking considerably more adequate now. I'd be surprised if you can improve it much. -- Russ

Wow, that looks great! I love landscape detailing!

Hello Volker, I'm looking forward to seeing this great new segment live in Junglinster.

Some impressions of the current state and some from the exhibition in Junglinster:


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I added some more broom but unfortunately didn't notice a wrong camera adjustment during the exhibition for a long time, so there are only a few pictures to show:


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There's a youtube-video (https://youtu.be/zDtrZ5X7VjI) showing the model from 10:40 on, followed by Helmut's 'Klosterstollen' at about 12:15.


Cheers,
Volker

Volker, It's great to see this all in one piece for the first time (at least the first time I've seen it altogether).
It's terrific!

Modeling doesn't get any better than that. Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Can you please share a picture of the tree roots at the top of the shale in the last photo?

Such wonderful work! What kind of tank car is that?

I love your design office. It's kind of like what we had in our teaching department. I worked on a drawing board like this for several years (Kuhlmann, I suppose?).
Bernhard

My error.  It should be the first photo that has the tree roots.

Quote from: Bill Gill on February 29, 2020, 06:19:51 AM
Volker, It's great to see this all in one piece for the first time (at least the first time I've seen it altogether).
It's terrific!

Bill,
it was kind of thrilling to join both parts, because due to available space I wasn't able to have them rigged up at same time for working at it. Only the blending was done in one day with both parts assembled.

Quote from: finescalerr on February 29, 2020, 11:53:33 AM
Modeling doesn't get any better than that. Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Russ,
come on. Ask Chuck  :D.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on February 29, 2020, 09:17:08 PM
Such wonderful work! What kind of tank car is that?

Ray,
thank you. It is a gauge 2 car by Magnus/Höhne. The company doesn't exist anymore. Quality / detailing corresponds with LGB standard. It doesn't really fit the engines' or Rollwagens' standard. My friend Uwe took the car to the exhibition to take some pictures.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on February 29, 2020, 02:23:12 PM
Can you please share a picture of the tree roots at the top of the shale in the last photo? My error.  It should be the first photo that has the tree roots.

Lawton,
I had to wait until today to take some better pictures. There's some sawdust and more fine roots to come, but here we go.



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Quote from: Bernhard on March 01, 2020, 07:34:38 AM
I love your design office. It's kind of like what we had in our teaching department. I worked on a drawing board like this for several years (Kuhlmann, I suppose?).
Bernhard

Bernhard,
thanks, and yes, it is a Kuhlmann easel. There's a lot of info about how I made it from here on: http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1983.msg52977#msg52977
(http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1983.msg52977#msg52977)

Cheers,
Volker

I have rarely or never seen scenery modeled to that level of excellence. -- Russ

Thanks for the photos. 
Fantastic work.
If I enlarge the photos will I see the worms digging through the soil?

That overhanging layer of soil, rocks, and roots is incredibly realistic!

Volker, looking at the Kuhlmann easel brings back old memories. And the the cliff edge is really of the finest.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on March 08, 2020, 03:54:56 PM
Thanks for the photos. 
Fantastic work.
If I enlarge the photos will I see the worms digging through the soil?

The worms are usually inside the soil. They tend to come out if it rains. But it never rains in California.


Some more stuff:


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Cheers,
Volker

Simply disgusting. -- Russ

The grille and the cemented posts of the railing are absolute tops.

There is so much to love about this diorama! Even the smallest details of the scenery are perfect!

The last weeks provided some extra time for the Wiesenthal stop. This is a plan of the Oestertal line's terminus and the Brockhaus & Söhne factory.


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(Slg. Wolf Dietrich Groote)


Would it be possible to model that stop to scale? It would, according to some rather big segments of 140 x 62 cm.


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There are only few pictures of that area available and most of them are published in this book (https://shop.vgbahn.info/vgbahn/shop/plettenberger+kleinbahn-_4619.html). This picture isn't in the book, but shows the landscape / environment very well.


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Triebwagen T1 und Personenwagen Nr. 7 in Wiesental. Foto: E. J. Wolff 1952, Slg. Wolf Dietrich Groote)


Both turnouts were made as described before in A snapshot in time (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.0).


Blades are filed and sanded to scale.


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A brass screw brazed to the blade serves as joint.


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The blades' lateral rails need to be undercut to provide space for the blades' rail feet.


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One turnout is located on the segments' edge. Sockets and brass rods provide exact positioning whenever the segments are mounted.


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A very simple drawing with the track axis ant rail foot contour taped to a plywood board serves as jig.


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The frog is my first attempt in laser sintering steel.


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After some sanding the part was perfect for its purpose.


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This is the mechanism to switch the turnout. The lever protrudes underneath and operates a switch for frog polarisation.


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After completing trackwork landscaping begins. This is the transition to the former part.


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I wanted to use some packaging styrofoam, which usually ends up as rubbish, but I always hated the small pellets sticking on everywhere. And i like the idea to use materials which would have been dumped otherwise.


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An electrical styrofoam cutter helped to solve the pellet problem. It was so simple to build it that I'd like to show it; I think it is self explaining  :D. Only thing I had tu buy was some 0.2 mm NiCr wire. Using a 6V power supply was perfect for cutting 6cm thick material.


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Cheers,
Volker

Not bad ... so far. -- Russ

That is an impressive start to the new section.
I like your foam cutting tool.

Very impressive track work!

Hi Volker.
Very impressive there is so much in this section that it is going to take me a while to follow it all lovely work
cheers

This is really great work, Volker!

Bernhard

Such detailed landscaping - a thing not often seen
Barney

Greetings from Wiesenthal stop:


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Cheers,
Volker

Impossible to tell from 1:1 scale. Superb. -- Russ

Very realistic -inspiring work
Barney

Excellent. The colors are especially good!

Absolutely amazing!
Les

Stunning! Great work!

Volker, this really is modelling at its finest.
Bernhard

Hi Volker.
Love the plywood signboard with the worn signs,
cheers

Lately the brass parts for the switch lever arrived. Shapeways had some weeks, um, months delay in making cast metal parts. The brass parts were tinned, burnished and then painted with some diluted matte black Revell oil colors, then pigments applied to the humid color and afterwards an additional wash with real rust. First time I managed to have the switch weight showing the correct positions of the white semicircle in both switch positions.


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This lever has an a little bit different design compared to german standard levers.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_3173.JPG&hash=2c0b80506cd17c079c39a0ea8970517859aa418e)
(snippet; Wolf Dietrich Groote collection)


Cheers,
Volker

Volker, please don't try to fool us. That is not a model. -- Russ

Very nice!

Quote from: Hydrostat on June 27, 2020, 12:24:35 PM
Greetings from Wiesenthal stop:


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Cheers,
Volker

Fantastic work. Have you described your concrete and tarpaper techniques earlier in the thread?

Completely believable.

Russ, Ray, Hauk, Bill,
thank you.

Quote from: Hauk on August 26, 2020, 03:21:04 AMHave you described your concrete and tarpaper techniques earlier in the thread?

No, I didn't - thanks for asking!

Here we go:
I tried some materials for the tarpaper like sandpaper or handkerchiefs but nothing worked for me: the first being to stiff (even after an hour of boiling it in water), the other with a lack of texture and so I made my own tarpaper. Base is a blotting paper sheet from an exercise book. Some strong permanent spray mount serves to fix silicon carbide, not sure which exact grid it was, maybe F 150. Once dried I used some lightly diluted black acrylic color to paint it from both sides. I found that color in a supermarket sale for 1,- €. It smells a bit like gasoil (yes, it does  :o). Then I'd cut the sheet to strips and take some diluted PVA to mount them to the roof. If you don't want folds/wrinkles you need to moisten the strips' back side beforehand. If you want the wrinkles go straight ahead: the strips start to wrinkle as soon as they get in touch with the diluted PVA. There's some time to correct it a bit if the effect is to strong. I didn't apply glue to the overlap and so later on I glued it with that undiluted black acrylic, mixed with some PVA for strength, to the lower strip, squeezing out the color a bit from the overlap - just as it is with tar mounted tarpaper roofs. It takes some time to adhere (My conclusion is that misleading modeling takes the same time as building the real thing, which makes it obscene in some viewers' eyes). There's a layer of planks under the tarpaper and the blotting paper aligns perfectly and that clean, that you can see the board gaps depending on incidence of light.


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Plaster:
First step is to glue bricks to the areas, where they are going to be visible later on, and to grout them. First layer is a mixture of melaphyre dust, a bit yellow clay dust found in the woods, diluted PVA and some pigments, applied with a spatula.


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Once dried there's a second layer of clay dust with just a bit of very fine melaphyre powder (30 years ago I took two buckets of dust home from a quarry, occasionally sifting it out to different grids. Seems to be enough for a lifetime).


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The clay tends to form cracks during drying. I applied several thin layers until cracks seemed believable to me.


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Next step was blending bricks and plaster by some extremely thinned clay plaster.


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Last steps were sanding the surface to get rid of a few bigger grits and unevenness from working with the spatula and then applying several washes of blackish/brownish/yellowish gouache.


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Cheers,
Volker

Volker the way you recreate the real process in miniature makes your work seem like the real thing. Its beautifully observed and executed. The bricks with the missing mortar and the stucco layering...WOW.

Thank you for the step-by-step instructions. If I had published them in a book, the result would be worth its weight in gold. -- Russ

Great stuff! I especially like the look of the bricks and mortar.

Amazing Yes I agree with all - love the brickwork
Barney

Hi Volker.
The switch stand is especially tasty just the right amount of weathering on the moving parts.
all the best

Quote from: Hydrostat on August 26, 2020, 06:39:20 AM

Quote from: Hauk on August 26, 2020, 03:21:04 AMHave you described your concrete and tarpaper techniques earlier in the thread?

No, I didn't - thanks for asking!

And thanks for the great tutorial!

Thanks for the tutorial. It is very interesting and helpful for future projects.

Bernhard

Since July 2020 I've been working at the last segment's building, which was the pickling shop of Brockhaus Söhne for removing cinder from forgings. Presumably around 1960 the building had gone and there are only two distance shots available, one from the 1930ies

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Slg. Wolf Dietrich Groote


and one from the Fifties, which is more interesting to me. There's an additional aerial photo and some land register maps that I'm not allowed to show here. Those maps helped to determine the building's groundplan and coarse dimensions. I decided to create a mixture from both states - to cap it all it seems to have been torn down and rebuilt at the same location in the 1940ies - just a bit larger.

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Out-take from an early "image brochure" of Brockhaus Söhne, Brockhaus Heuer GmbH collection


In that brochure was one thrilling indoor shot with a lot of character, which became the base for the building's reconstruction:

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Brockhaus Heuer GmbH collection


It started with some CAD work.

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Creating the roof truss was a special task. I first thought of a wooden structure, but it would have left far too little space from floor to structure, restricting later photographic capabilities:

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Additional research lead to the Polonceau support structure from mid 19th century (Barthélemy Camille Polonceau, engineer, *1813 Chambéry – †1859 Châtillon) which had some strong aesthetic appeal to me. Brockhaus Söhne was part of the metalworking industry and they may have made the necessary parts by themselves. There's a great site (in German) with some additional information to this construction by Jürgen Riedl und Thomas Scherer: http://www.laenderbahn-forum.de/galerie/polonceau-traeger/polonceau-traeger.html#top (http://www.laenderbahn-forum.de/galerie/polonceau-traeger/polonceau-traeger.html#top).

Indoor view first to compare with the clearance of the wooden construction:

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The crane runway leading out of the building is pure fiction. The indoor photo shows some kind of overhead wires which might have served the crane, but I don't know how this kind of power supply should have crossed the building's gates. Any idea?

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Starting from CAD the elements arose. Walls and backsplashs Frithjof milled from Forex (Sintra board), Hard PVC, Styrene and Resopal (Formica). Window frames are made from multiple layers of laser cut cardboard. The Polonceau support structure was made from milled parts for the connecting metal sheets, 3D-printing and lost wax brass casting for supports and binders and laser-sintering for supports. All additional parts were made from brazed and/or screwed brass and steel parts.

Roof beams with ridge bearing shoe (I hope that's the correct translation), printed in Shapeways Gray PA12:

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Roof lantern (again: correct translation?):

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Details of the Polonceau construction with compression member, knot and draw bars:

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Lateral bearing shoe:

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There are three of those elements lengthwise the building:

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Some shots of the current state:

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I would particularly like to thank the Hessische Kulturstiftung (Hessian culture foundation), which supported the project with a three-month working fellowship - and I do especially thank my friends from finescalerr and Buntbahn, who helped and help to realize the project to that state.

Cheers,
Volker



Gefördert im Rahmen des Kulturförderprogramms
,,Hessen kulturell neu eröffnen".

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GOOD LORD! That is superb! No wonder we haven't heard from you since September.

I've decided to change my hobby from building the occasional model to watching you guys build models better than I could ever conceive of. That should be much more satisfying and infinitely less frustrating.

Russ

Wow, that is awesome! I really like the metal-braced rafters, they're much more unique and interesting than plain wooden rafters.

great Volker cheers.

Looks terrific!

Hi Volker

I am very glad to see this piece of art also posted here. You have definietly opened the door to new dimensions in modelling! The whole project is absolute incredible!!!
Just one question yet: Do you plan to fill one of the tubes with a true to scale acid bath too?
(If so, Kim will be able to contribute some of his poison-green swampy water mixtures for sure ...  ;))

Cheers, Peter

Volker your trusses are great.
European design of roof trusses is very interesting the use of metal rods and plates is unique to Germany and France the rest of the world used more wood please correct me. This example is very elegant and you have captured it very well typically industrial.
cheers

lovely detail in your modelling - great stuff
Barney

Very impressive, Volker. I find your research into the history of the buildings and the construction method very interesting.

Bernhard

Incredible modelling, it really is impossible to tell what is actual size from the model. 
Les

The Book to have for all your construction methods - mine is the 1904 edition - there seems to be plenty of them out there (later editions as well) and at good prices mine was £6:00 through EBAY
And the best bit is it keeps  the Rivet counters and in this case the brick & mortar counters at bay !!
Barney

a page

next

roof bits pages of them
Barney

Rivet Counters hate it when you call their bluff and produce a text showing the correct way of doing something.  I am particular to the Architectural Graphics Standards books which are the final say on how to draw almost anything building related.  They are great references on parking lots, drainage, and the trivia of detailing the outside of the property.

Just build it and ignore the whiners.   

To me it looks like there's something like a boiler with a manometer or thermometer in the left back corner. Obviously the tubs are filled with a warm or hot fluid. Any idea how a coke or oil heated boiler might have looked like in an industrial standard - especially if they just needed warm water, no steam/pressure?

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Slg. Brockhaus Heuer GmbH

Any ideas about how the crane's lateral overhead wires might have crossed the sliding gates avoiding short circuits at closed gates? A trailing cable seems to make more sense in that case but never say never ...

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Cheers,
Volker

This is an AMAZING project Volker. I had never even thought about industrial pickling until I started looking your project. Seeing your model fills my nostrils with smells of brine and vinegar. It mst have been a big job keeping corrosion under control.

Quote from: nk on December 18, 2020, 07:42:20 AM
This is an AMAZING project Volker. I had never even thought about industrial pickling until I started looking your project. Seeing your model fills my nostrils with smells of brine and vinegar. It mst have been a big job keeping corrosion under control.

To get that project pregnant with meaning: Doesn't a pickling shop represent our current caustic pandemic situation nearly perfectly?

On a serious note, i found an antiquarian book "Handbuch der Metallbeizerei" by Otto Vogel from 1943, which describes in detail how a pickling shop worked and how it was equipped. Needless to say that some older thoughts lead astray: I had painted the interior white, but found a paragraph about coloring a pickling shop's interior: a bright color, best yellow, but never white. So I had to repaint the walls.


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Windows from lasered Cardstock are finished and ready to install; for the principle have a look here (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg55698#new).


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Outer frames of two windows are made from bass wood to have some variety in the building's condition.


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Frithjof kindly milled the transom windows from brass as well as the screens from Vivak. After tinning and blackening the screens fit tight.


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The book also gave some valuable hints for the boiler installation, given the necessary effort for constructing it I preferred to first make those pickling baskets from some brass tube and wood. At the prototype they were made from Monel metal.


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A rudimentary jig served for bending, crimping and shortening the brass rods.


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First beam hoist trolley parts arrived and soon lost their sheen.


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I don't place value on having the crane working, but it should be movable at least to achieve different photographic capabilities later on. My friend Toni milled those bushings to mount the roller bearings.


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Parts for pipework:


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But - the boiler. Meh. With some pictures and very valuable information from a former boiler company I was able to start CAD work.  


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This is what it looks like within the builduing later on.


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I'm going to build it from brass parts, printed resin parts and brass and aluminum tubes. The manometer is a completely analogue fabrication.


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Cheers,
Volker

Absolutely superb. That includes knowing what material to use for each part, what tool to use to create it, as well as overall craftsmanship, artistry, research, and appearance. Too bad the world isn't as perfect as Volker's model and many others we see on this forum. -- Russ

Wow! Impressive, as always!

Hi Volker .
great is that cracked glass in the steam gauge man I can smell the corrosion.
cheers

Volker, If you take "Quiet earth" literally, the pressure gauge shouldn't actually indicate pressure, right?

Quote from: 1-32 on February 12, 2021, 01:39:32 AM
Hi Volker .
great is that cracked glass in the steam gauge man I can smell the corrosion.
cheers

Yes, Kim, it is, but acrylic glass based. Meanwhile I did another one, Vivak based, because the print wasn't sharp enough. The latter unfortunately did not cracked during the process.

Quote from: Design-HSB on February 13, 2021, 12:31:42 AM
Volker, If you take "Quiet earth" literally, the pressure gauge shouldn't actually indicate pressure, right?

Why, Helmut? This rather adds to the forlomness of humans.

Quote from: Hydrostat on February 13, 2021, 01:47:52 AM

Quote from: Design-HSB on February 13, 2021, 12:31:42 AM
Volker, If you take "Quiet earth" literally, the pressure gauge shouldn't actually indicate pressure, right?

Why, Helmut? This rather adds to the forlomness of humans.

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Hello Volker, your works are really uniquely beautiful, only I lack something to live in it. It looks like abandoned to me and reminds me of Lost Places. In the practice module there is a picture of you, only where are you in the model. Yes the earth is quiet and so it seems to me like a Lost Places.

Hi Volker.
very cool love the portrait fits the scene really well.

Quote from: Barney on December 03, 2020, 04:24:43 AM
The Book to have for all your construction methods - mine is the 1904 edition - there seems to be plenty of them out there (later editions as well) and at good prices mine was £6:00 through EBAY
And the best bit is it keeps  the Rivet counters and in this case the brick & mortar counters at bay !!
Barney

Good resource Barney. The 1888 edition of this book is available as a free PDF download from Google Books at https://books.google.ca/books?id=6mVBAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=charles+mitchell+building+construction&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjC9vja_oDvAhWhFVkFHQl7DnEQ6AEwAnoECAgQAg#v=onepage&q=charles%20mitchell%20building%20construction&f=false (https://books.google.ca/books?id=6mVBAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=charles+mitchell+building+construction&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjC9vja_oDvAhWhFVkFHQl7DnEQ6AEwAnoECAgQAg#v=onepage&q=charles%20mitchell%20building%20construction&f=false). Another good reference is Ramsey/Sleeper's Traditional Details, though it is expensive. It is on Google Books, but not available for download. However, Ramsey/Sleeper's Architectural Graphic Standards, 1947 edition (the edition from which much of the material in Traditional Details was taken) is available in downloadable PDF from Library Genesis http://libgen.rs/ (http://libgen.rs/).

I'm using a lot of CAD for my work, but I can't say that I like that more than building things manually. So mostly rather singular items originate from CAD, but never a complete scene. This lead to an interesting mistake I wasn't aware of at all:

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The crane beam and crane trolley were CAD based, but the fixtures are hand made. The beam with the trolley worked, and the beam with the fixtures worked, but not if mounted  :P
Luckily Frithjof had a remaining piece from Oesterbrücke milling in stock. Former I-beam was 4x8 mm, this one is 4x10 mm. I think this dimension even looks better than the former one.

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As Narayan mentioned corrosion must have been a topic in those pickling shops.

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Cheers,
Volker

Excellent finish on the beam!

Boiler carcass is a piece of aluminum tube with boreholes for positioning the attachment parts, which all got a rear trunnion for that purpose.

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I didn't want to scratch the surface with the scriber and so made an unrolling of the boiler hull in CAD and printed that on paper. This way only a punch mark was necessary.

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Many thanks to Uwe, who printed a lot of parts for the boiler and the electrical installation to come.

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Picture courtesy of Uwe Wettin



Some other parts like taps, water gauge glass and safety valve I had brass made by Shapeways. Combining parts leads to a reasonable cost-benefit-ratio.

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The printed head and base boiler parts didn't fit to well according to a CAD mistake.
 
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After puttying the parts were air brushed ...

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... and mounted.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715P1180230_b.jpg&hash=fe963ba882f97f8896c927ffce044a92e382a763)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715P1180202_b.jpg&hash=1823bc909136c7237e2e86d844db42c983d7e170)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715P1180204_b.jpg&hash=bb97340da0bc0f71a46ced2d2bee0f68529490cf)


I'm not glad with the weldseams, especially the upper one. The lower one may be a bit smoothened and less exaggerated, but the upper one clearly shows, that the parts didn't fit that well. Any suggestion how to sand that without destroying the rounded shape of the lid?

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715P1180221_b.jpg&hash=bc76a8241a814f06733addc4b433357c2d102c6d)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715P1180224_b.jpg&hash=851a416fb3b39be623406c6aac44dfa53e5eb822)


Test fitting to the building:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F571520210227_204954_b1.jpg&hash=6b8916afeb4cfcdda2a8c68bd70f4730cbd7e095)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715P1180209_b.jpg&hash=6774e0e434b499179374238563a9c4bc4e660951)


Cheers,
Volker

WOW - Im speechless
Barney

Can you say "MASTER MODELER"?

The work above demonstrates a satisfactory level craftsmanship and artistry for the Modelers' Forum.

Russ

Great job! Did you design the casting onm for the brass fittings yourself ?

Bernhard

Bernhard,

yes, I do all the CAD work myself.