As noted elsewhere I ordered (July 29th) and received (Aug. 6th) the "German Standard size brick mold
from dioramadebris.
The mold is a light grey silicon mold with 36 cavities for bricks.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F188349c8.jpg&hash=f146a4e9b23c83c1671ae684937f502e175cfac1)
The mold is is approximately 4 1/2" by 2 5/8"
The bricks are;
.592" long ( 9.472 scale inches)
.289" wide ( 4.624 scale inches)
.169" tall ( 2.704 scale inches)
I hope to obtain some concrete coloring stuff to do them the right color form the beginning
like NickO does.
After they dried I put them in a container with some screws to beat them up a bit.
Then they were "stained" with thined craft paint.
No spacer for the mortar just laid out.
I'm hoping there will be no bubbles when I spray the mold properly; my atomizer disappeared >:(
The wall here is 1" tall and about 3 1/2" long
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fdf8150fa.jpg&hash=1f1ac8cfe8139003822fef755f04d1bb935281c6)
Here you can see the recess under each one (I'm assuming) like real bricks?
I dont know squat about bricks so I am hoping NickO will educate me.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fd8852fcb.jpg&hash=189bc582d858d761a8734aebdca5144c51fc248f)
Hope this is of use to others.
I'll post more when I can find some "colorant".
I will not be doing entire walls of individual bricks in 1/16 no matter what you guys call me!!!!!
;D
-Marty
Chicken! ;D
Check to see if there's a pottery supply place in your area ... there's one here, conveniently located within walking distance that has a variety of "Coloring Oxides" and "Mason Stains" ... small assortment shown below.
These mix with water before adding the plaster ... they have a TON of colors. The "Spanish" Iron Oxide is redder/brighter than the "regular" Iron Oxide. There's also a Terra Cotta that's rather pale, etc, etc ...
If it helps, they do have web sales:
http://www.clayworkssupplies.com/loadCategory.cgi?c_id=1
Cheers,
Dallas
Marty,
Those came out sweet. Look forward to seeing what you are planning on doing with them.
Is there a website/link to the mold vendor?
Thx.
Ps. I second Dallas' "Chicken" ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on August 07, 2012, 11:42:53 PM
Is there a website/link to the mold vendor?
Nick recommended the molds ... and they've got a bunch of them in 1/35 scale. Here's the link for individual bricks in 1/35 and you can navigate from there:
http://www.dioramadebris.co.uk/135-scale-german-standard-size-bricks-mould-1350001-3-p.asp
Cheers,
Dallas
... darn ... this 1/16 stuff is highly contagious * ... ;D ... I found myself lurking around here and scanning the forum to find more building reports and contributions in that scale, even starting to build fruit crates in 1/16 scale ... 8)
* and helpful regarding aging eyes and hands ... :P
Quote from: lab-dad on August 07, 2012, 04:14:45 PM
After they dried I put them in a container with some screws to beat them up a bit.
Then they were "stained" with thined craft paint.
No spacer for the mortar just laid out.
I'm hoping there will be no bubbles when I spray the mold properly; my atomizer disappeared >:(
The wall here is 1" tall and about 3 1/2" long
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fdf8150fa.jpg&hash=1f1ac8cfe8139003822fef755f04d1bb935281c6)
.. means, that you used common (white) plaster, being coloured afterwards? And has the mould to be sprayed (with water or some silicone fluid?) before casting?
I'd like to add these precast bricks (http://english.miniaturziegel.de/bricks.xhtml), only to be mentioned for completeness ...
Quote from: Malachi Constant on August 07, 2012, 08:12:58 PM
Check to see if there's a pottery supply place in your area ... there's one here, conveniently located within walking distance that has a variety of "Coloring Oxides" and "Mason Stains" ... small assortment shown below ...
If it helps, they do have web sales:
http://www.clayworkssupplies.com/loadCategory.cgi?c_id=1
... I wonder if these (or something similar) are available over here ... ???
Chers
Marty ,
The recesses in the bricks are called " frogs" (don't ask me why , 'cos I don't know) .
Don't try and knock the edges off to many bricks as it doesn't look right .
Just so that I've made myself quite clear , anyone who builds a wall out of individual bricks and lays them in stretcher bond will be put on " moderated" status , and if they persist will be banned .
I will post some photos of brickwork that have " pleasing to the eye" bonds .
Marc ,
You obviously haven't been paying attention in class as I have made reference to this company on two previous occasions .
I am in conversation with them about producing new moulds and have been trialling their latest one for Spanish barrel tiles . I have been having fun trying to get the castings to come out of the mould cleanly without a great deal of success but it transpires that I'm not using hard enough plaster so when I get some harder plaster I shall have another go . I am hoping that they will produce moulds to make pantiles and double Roman tiles as that is what I really want .
I have been intending making a more formal reference to this company but have held off until I can make the tile mould work for me properly .
Even if you never buy anything from them there is some very useful information on the website about casting with plaster and colouring of the plaster . There really is no reason why one should ever need to cast anything in white plaster ever again , unless you actually want a white casting at the end !
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on August 08, 2012, 01:42:45 AM
You obviously haven't been paying attention in class as I have made reference to this company on two previous occasions .
... thanks for pointing that out (again) ... ::) .. is their Powder Pigments (http://www.dioramadebris.co.uk/powder-pigments-17-c.asp) comparable/an equivalent to the items Dallas mentioned above?
Quote from: shropshire lad on August 08, 2012, 01:42:45 AM
Even if you never buy anything from them there is some very useful information on the website about casting with plaster and colouring of the plaster . There really is no reason why one should ever need to cast anything in white plaster ever again , unless you actually want a white casting at the end!
... just checked - indeed very interesting and helpful ...!
Don't forget to have Dave laser cut some tiny little letters to go in each of the frogs! ;D -- Anonymous
I swung by the local home center.
Picked up a one pound bag of red Sakrete cement color.
Here are the results mixed at a 1:16, 1:32 & 1:64 ratios
Concrete color to plaster by volume
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F610f6541.jpg&hash=855ae208297a02ef6665657c22f1ffe9d23f485d)
And a Flemish bond (I hope) ??? :-\
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F55263705.jpg&hash=6cca6334567786d63cb7211aacb5775dc2f8b98c)
Marty
I like the colors now, a little grey and black and you'll be close, these experiment colors are terracotta like?
What's with the ratios? Is HO next ??? ::) ::)
MPH
Quote from: shropshire lad on August 08, 2012, 01:42:45 AM
Marty ,
Marc ,
I am in conversation with them about producing new moulds and have been trialling their latest one for Spanish barrel tiles . I have been having fun trying to get the castings to come out of the mould cleanly without a great deal of success but it transpires that I'm not using hard enough plaster so when I get some harder plaster I shall have another go . I am hoping that they will produce moulds to make pantiles and double Roman tiles as that is what I really want .
Nick
Nick,
Have you tried Durham rock putty? It has a light tint to it but very hard and durable when dried. Mixes just like plaster. Find it in a hardware store. Comes in a cardboard tube with metal lids the last time I bought some. I carve it to make great rocks.
Quote from: 5thwheel on August 10, 2012, 09:53:54 AM
Quote from: shropshire lad on August 08, 2012, 01:42:45 AM
Marty ,
Marc ,
I am in conversation with them about producing new moulds and have been trialling their latest one for Spanish barrel tiles . I have been having fun trying to get the castings to come out of the mould cleanly without a great deal of success but it transpires that I'm not using hard enough plaster so when I get some harder plaster I shall have another go . I am hoping that they will produce moulds to make pantiles and double Roman tiles as that is what I really want .
Nick
Nick,
Have you tried Durham rock putty? It has a light tint to it but very hard and durable when dried. Mixes just like plaster. Find it in a hardware store. Comes in a cardboard tube with metal lids the last time I bought some. I carve it to make great rocks.
No , Bill , I haven't . Because they don't sell it in Great Britain . As far as I know . I am actually sorted for plaster as I had a delivery yesterday of three different plasters all of which are pretty hard . The results I got last night are pretty good .
Thanks for the suggestion ,
Nick
Nick,
Maybe it is available through an orthodontist or someone who makes false teeth. That is what I started with (quite spendy if you buy it but I was given a nice bag of it for free.) I had a can of the Durham which i used to patch a know hole in my house trim. For some reason I compared the two and fund absolutely no difference. My guess is that the dental has to be more sanitary. I wasn't going to eat it so that was no problem ;D.
Hi guys
I came across these bricks after reading this thread and would like to know if anyone has used them?
Or would you recommend something else in 1/48 scale?
http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=435
I dont think I would want to build a brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick by brick wall in 1:48
But those bricks look nice!
For 1:48 i would look at New England Brownstone's walls.
He can also do "other" sizes if.........
-Marty
Quote from: Wesleybeks on August 14, 2012, 07:43:21 AM
Hi guys
I came across these bricks after reading this thread and would like to know if anyone has used them?
Or would you recommend something else in 1/48 scale?
http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=435
Cool. Thanks for the link. While I might not want to build an entire wall brick by brick in 1:48 .. I could see these being used in addition to a brick sheet. Think I will order a package for the heck of it.
I too have got sucked into this 1/16 world, spent some time over the week-end experimenting with the Diorama Debris 1/16 brick mould, was really getting quite pleased with myself thinking that "Nick the brick" will be proud of me .................... then I see he has taken brick building to a new level ;D
Anyway here are some shots of of my efforts, I basically followed the DD instructions with little tweaks . Used their terracotta plaster, 30 gms of plaster to 8g of water, with the addition of minute quantities of their iron oxide and /or their burnt umber to add some variety .
Used Nicks method for building the test wall but used strips of 30 thou plastic instead of wood to act as the mortar spacer ........ did not really fancy trying the DD's method of of using polyfilla/Spackle to act as a glue/mortar.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricktrials116012.jpg&hash=58ec0fc7d03b7bb9d65bfbbf9ff8ba007db6418f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricktrials116015.jpg&hash=a2b77ac9d01d1b0cb45acb04b7436728e625f977)
(by the way I did get papal dispensation from Nick to use this bond)
Was a bit concerned that DD's suggestion for applying the mortar would stain the bricks so made up a test panel
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricktrials116022.jpg&hash=dc55971281e387de8458850d6368d33373a86fb6)
Top left, the mortar was applied ( polyfilla ready mixed coloured with some cement dye buff oxide and a very small amount of black and thinned down slightly with water ) excess scraped of and the bricks wiped with damp cloth
Middle, bricks darkened slightly with thin water colour and then sealed with Dull cote. Mortar then applied as above , excess scrapped off and wiped with damp cloth.
Bottom applied as directed by DD, excess mortar kept damp and picked of with wooden toothpick no other techniques used other than a light brush at the end when all the mortar was dry ( did try to angle the mortar with the edge of a blade when it was still damp)
Their method is the best , IMHO
Final shot is the brick pillar built up a few more courses , 1/16 is big!, mortar applied as per DD's suggested method .... tried to leave a few places where the mortar has started to fail and fall out
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricktrials116029.jpg&hash=734e3a409b3b6bafd92f0fd9c8efc1e09e548295)
That's as far I have got, now need to try and alter the basic brick tone as the terracotta colour while OK for some brick types is a bit too light in colour for what I am trying to achieve
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricks1.jpg&hash=10dd1362af69482c52cf03e4ab5ee7bbdc88ebeb)
Thanks Gordon!
Very helpful tests / results.
Glad I got the ball rolling!
Did you follow DD's instructions for "making" the bricks too?
the trowel, clear plastic & then glass.
Thanks for posting!
-Marty
Hi Marty,
Yes followed their instructions, sprayed mould with water and a little rinse aid, tapped on towel to take excess off, then plaster mix, flexible clear sheet of plastic and weighed down with glass.
To be honest still not got technique right, all the bricks are useable but still have a number with air bubbles on the back ........ however their method certainly gets uniform thickness of bricks.
Looking great so far!
Anders
Thanks for showing what worked best and what didn't. -- Russ
On a posite note: great job, and thanks for al the expeiments and the SBS.
On the les possitive note: Damn you Ferguson...you're just trying your hardest to drag me sown int the festering muck and mire of your brick nightmare. ;D
Looking very promising indeed!
Great stuff our Gordon this 1/16 scale is catching - nice colour and texture in fact they match the colour of the bricks I have just knocked out of house wall in the "loo"
Is this a project or just a "dabbling" in brick art ?
Barney
Just noticed the feedback , thanks folks
and to continue Marc's nightmare , the experiment continues;-
New colours and English Bond
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricktrials116044.jpg&hash=8c5b14f3de1a5db0da2d3fb00fe876cdf93caf36)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricktrials116050.jpg&hash=d0dfbd0d884911a0d17aef9b28eec5f3d0d72841)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F116%2520brick%2520experiments%2FBricktrials116047.jpg&hash=9fc41783eb0832851a77597a2b213f3f1716e60b)
Its gonna to take a while even to get to the first storey :)
Now that is a proper bond!
cue NickO bemoaning here!
When I do mine I will only be going to the window sills!
What did you do different for the "new colors"?
how did you do the quarter brick slices?
I looked at the English but those little pieces made me reconsider.
-Marty
Now you know why masons get paid by the brick and not by the hour ;D
Quote from: lab-dad on August 24, 2012, 04:56:35 PM
Now that is a proper bond!
cue NickO bemoaning here!
When I do mine I will only be going to the window sills!
What did you do different for the "new colors"?
how did you do the quarter brick slices?
I looked at the English but those little pieces made me reconsider.
-Marty
Marty , you're such a lightweight , get yourself a club hammer and bolster and have a practice . If you dare do stretcher bond I'll have you banished from this forum and you'll only be able to post at the RRL forum !
Nick
He never gives up does he ?
Marty, sorry should have added the detail after all this is supposed to be "sharing" about how it was done.
I managed to get 8 different coloured oxide powders of cement dye in sample packs of 100 gm ........... as 500gm will colour 25 Kg of cement its pretty strong stuff.
For these latest bricks I mixed 195 gms of the terracotta plaster from Diorama Debris + 5 gm of red cement dye for the basic colour ( for each cast of the bricks used 36 gm of the plaster & 9 gm of water )
When I was about half way through using up the initial mix I added 4 gm of iron oxide and 1 gm of black cement dye to get a a variation (slight)
for the second batch mixed 180 gm of terracotta plaster, 15 gms of of white plaster and 5 gm of red dye. Again half way through using the dry mix I added 5 gm of iron oxide .............. same ratio of plaster to water.
If you are good at maths you will realise I had some of each of the dry mix left over after 5 pours from each ,so mixed what was left of the 2 mixes together so I ended with 5 different shades of brick ............... the shades are very close but it is amazing how even my eyes pick up the slight differences.
When building the wall I switched this time to 20 thou plastic card strips to narrow the mortar line.
The mortar mix was about inch long length of premixed filler from a tube, coloured with a few granules of deep buff cement dye and literally one or two granules of black dye. Pressed mortar mix into gaps, let go off .... literally seconds and then scrapped of excess with toothpick ....... this time I left mortar flush with brick surface.
When fully hardened, brush with stiff toothbrush ........ this provides a slight polish to the brick surface which might be useful for some types, I wanted mine matt so found wiping over the surface of the bricks with slightly damp brush returned them to a matt effect.
Barney
at the moment its sort of have experiment / half project ................ that might turn into a full project but God forbid never a finished one.
Thanks Barney.
As noted i found a red powder they also have black and buff.
At $7 each it is not a major investment.
Where did you get your sample pack?
Marty
Marty,
I just looked up cement dyes on e-bay, and found a supplier who offered to supply sample packs of the various dyes so that people could experiment ........ With postage 8 x 100 gm sample packs cost roughly 8$
By the way i tried the club hammer and cold chisell recommended by you know who ........ found it a bit awkward on these size of bricks .
So I cut the bricks by scoring with knife blade and then pressing down hard along the score line with a heavy blade or tapping the back of the blade with small hammer .......... Because its plaster you can rub/ sand it with rough sandpaper for final adjustment if you need to .
Also for what it's worth I found it better to follow full size practice and build up the ends/corners first then work into the centre of the wall .......... That let me adjust the vertical mortar gaps as and if required
Gordon,
I'm really watching your report and progress with interest ...
Quote from: gfadvance on August 21, 2012, 04:56:42 AM
...sprayed mould with water and a little rinse aid...
... just wondering, what's about this rinse aid ...
Cheers
Edited, because the the question "how to part" has been answered in the meantime (I did not recognise) ...
been casting bricks as of late.
had quite a tub - about 750
I decided to build some "masters" and make molds.
I wont embarass myself by showing my first attempt.
This small section is 6" tall and about 3 1/2" wide.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F9DE38DE0-8527-44F1-AF58-BF704C44115B-7246-00000D4B0C639BC5.jpg&hash=851a8447d7484824040f24a0ff53cc93adee80f0)
I am using 1/32 basswood as spacers.
The bricks are fastened to foamcore with waterproof carpenters glue.
Here is an in progress shot;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FB0C05757-FFF3-4A50-AEE1-CA3365B39E13-7246-00000D4B001A6ECB.jpg&hash=b8519e02f660c1da6fe7544f03dd298ce892a7e6)
Also built a vacuum box to use when i make the mold.
Marty
Marty,
looks very promising ... just wondering, if you post-coloured them or if you casted lots in different colours ... or both?
IMHO the red(dish) colour seems a little bit pale ... ??? ... judging only from the two pics ...
And I'm curious about the sandpaper (?) on the lower pic - was sanding necessary to even them out - or just planing the edges after having parted them?
Cheers
Well the red is the red. It is a little darker in person (picture shot on my phone).
I played with ratios of color and thats what I ended up with that I liked. ;D
I thought the darker (red) ones were too dark.
Also FWIW I think they will get darker with the weathering, hopefully not too dark.
The colorant is meant for concrete and I use it in a 16:1 ratio to the plaster.
I also have black and buff that I sprinkle in the mold for color variations.
I vary the coloring from batch to batch, adding (slightly) more or less red.
No post coloring was done.
This is the master for a mold so all of this "color" is just for trials sake.
When I do cast the walls I am hoping for some variation but will need to go back and add more variety.
I'm hoping the gauche will work for this. (another experiment).
Gerald;
The emery board is there to square up the cut ends of the half bricks.
I could not figure any better way to make 1/2's so I used my NWSL Chopper and then sanded them square.
Scoring & splitting did not work.
-Marty
Is the pattern done? Using the old electronics terminology of male and female connectors ... it looks like the male plugs are all on the same rows both left and right ... so, as is, this does not produce sections that would join together ... ??? -- Dallas
Ahhh. you are correct, BUT if I flip the next one it will!
Actually I do not intend to "join" these sections to each other (I think) but have them connect with a column (of individual bricks) if needed to avoid the dreaded "line" between castings..
I also think I can go around a corner with this set up - need to try.
I also think I can laminate two castings together for a double sided wall, but I am getting way ahead of myself.
Each wall section will have a window or door in it so the "inner" fingers will be removed for the opening.
Here are two photocopies of the wall not flipped.
And as you can see they "seam" right together!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F1CDC2D35-57E3-47C2-BECC-0FBFAD545332-7246-00000E3492C3D18B.jpg&hash=15f5751f91693db6a82c961568a9e9a172b2c838)
-Mj
Oh yeah, duh ... in the words of Emily Latella ... never mind! ;D
Marty ... I have a few questions.
1. Do you have a web link for the coloring sample pack?
2. What (and how thick) is the backing which holds all the bricks together as a unit?
3. Did you make a one-sided silicon rubber mold?
4. Tell me more about "building a vacuum box". Pics? Vacuum source? Shop Vac?
Carlo
Funny this doesn't look anything like a lathe....and I can't find anything wrong with it!
;D
Quote from: Malachi Constant on October 17, 2012, 06:24:06 AM
Is the pattern done? Using the old electronics terminology of male and female connectors ... it looks like the male plugs are all on the same rows both left and right ... so, as is, this does not produce sections that would join together ... ??? -- Dallas
It would be possible to join two sections together by stagging them one course up or down . This does mean that you potentially lose two courses or need to add bricks top and bottom to make both sections level . But , quite frankly , in this scale it is no hardship .
Nick
QuoteMarty ... I have a few questions.
1. Do you have a web link for the coloring sample pack?
2. What (and how thick) is the backing which holds all the bricks together as a unit?
3. Did you make a one-sided silicon rubber mold?
4. Tell me more about "building a vacuum box". Pics? Vacuum source? Shop Vac?
Carlo
1. No. I did not get a "sample pack" I bought red, charcoal & buff from a company called Sakrete.
Their page for the colors is http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/Cement-Colors (http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/Cement-Colors)
2. The backing is 3/16" foamcore. I just noticed some warping of it but I think (pray) I can glue it down to my glass when I pour the silicon.
3. the plan is to make a one sided mold.......
4. Here is the vacuum box;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F6BDB437A-40A5-4DA4-9456-D70CFF9504D7-7246-00000E3383377E98.jpg&hash=1508c4a06686b7ab285c280a3c505d6689fcb9e0)
It is 10" x 12.5" and 2.5" tall
I plan to use my a/c vacuum to introduce the vacuum; 29 in. Hg.
I still have a couple more masters to build then I will order the silicone so it is fresh.
Anyone have recommendations as to a brand/source?
Also I was thinking of "sealing" the master with a gloss clear enamel.
*Special thanks goes to
Nick for all his help getting me this far.
Paul,when I saw you posted I was thinking "now what!" LOL! ;D
Glad you didnt find anything to complain about!
-Marty
A lot of work, but a fascinating project. Please keep us up to date. -- Russ
If you flip it....wont the "frogs" be upside down!? ;D ;D
Love the 'Hannibal Lecter' box.
Marc
Guys:
All you want to know about using vacuum in the shop and a whole lot more. http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/v2-about.htm
Plus, if you muck around a bit, you will find a DIY section on storing vacuum.
Some of the military modelers use a spray paint pressure pot when resin casting. First to pull a vacuum to de-air a casting and then throw about 120 psi onto it to force the resin down into the small details. Also works when making the rubber moulds.
For small moulds (think 5cc or so), I've had good results with silicon tub sealer from the hardware store. Down side is that you have to build it up in thin layers and since it is an adhesive, you have to carefully seal and wax the master.
The other master is finished.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F85F06FB0-2AC0-4688-ACA7-EBD42835C3B7-410-00000023F1CC0D5C.jpg&hash=4c265f60e7919d9748094cb71fd693385bbcc291)
Switched to plywood on this one due to the foamcre
warping.
Ordered the silicone hope to try mold making once the
supplies arrive.
Marty