Inspired by Doris, I thought I would have a go at making a small model boat out of card and paper. it is based on the M.A.P plans for Kingfisher. I redrew the lines to include a few more stations than the original model called for. I am also making it about half the size. Just to get my feet wet. This is going to be a steep learning curve, so bear with me on this one. I have hunch that I will be making a few (lot) of mistakes along the way.
Here is the progress so far.
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cereal boxes and Matt board.
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Its a start. I had to sharpen the blade a lot just about after every section that was cut.
Michael
I, for one, am delighted to "bear with you". Please keep taking and posting progress photos. I have a good feeling about your project. -- Russ
Wow. Very neat. Look forward to your progress. I am not familiar with the Kingfisher...do you have a photo of the ptototype?
Marc,
Not familiar with Kingfisher but looking at the lines of Michael's model pretty sure it is based on a Bristol gaff rigged Pilot cutter, if so plenty of info on line, an example ;-
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Quick blurb http://www.headline.org.uk/index.php?page=bc-pilot-cutters
Worth reading up on as they were some of the finest and fastest sailing craft ever developed ( they certainly were not "designed")
Michael, with your standard of skill and workmanship this will be a joy to watch ............ if it is based on Bristol Cutter and you need any info let me know, have one or two books on them ;)
Thanks Russ,
Marc, Gordon is correct it is based on the Bristol Gaff rigged pilot cutter, I have wanted to build one since I was a boy and saw a model that was about 4 feet long at the round pond in Kensington gardens.
I built this sailboat in 1970 based on the sail plan of the gaff cutter rig, it was a tub and didn't sail upwind worth a damn but it was a lot of fun and taught me a lot. everything from sewing dacron to making fittings. I sold it in 1980. I was just letting down the jibs as the picture was taken I don't have any others, the hull was based on the Pelican by Captain William Short, it is a one design that is raced in the San Fransisco bay area. I had hair in those days!
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Back to Kingfisher, I purchased the plans in 1972 or there about, on a trip to the UK. I would like to make a larger model but first I need to learn.
Gordon thanks for the offer I will let you know, I do have Longridge,s book on building the model of Victory and also Underhill's "masting and rigging" and "The Gaff Rig" by John Leather.
Michael
Looking forward to seeing this come together please post as many sbs shots as possible. Thanks Pat
Well today I discovered why boats are not built on their sides! My original game-plan was deeply flawed.
Went back to square one, and cut out a new keel plan.
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Then I did a bit of reorganizing of the lines into a set of stations that were then printed out on a sheet of letter sized paper, these were then used, after cutting them out with a pair of scissors as templates for card.
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I started with station 6 don't ask why I just did.
I also made a quick stand so that I could add each section with the model upright.
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After a bit of time the hull was starting to take some shape, I decided to then finish off the bow then the stern
so all the stations are now glued in place I used lepages carpenters glue using a toothpick to spread the glue.
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A shot from the bow
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and a final one from the stern.
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Next the real test begins with the planking "God help me!"
Michael
Very interesting!
Now you're talkin'!
The hull planking may be a challenge since, as I understand it, each hull plank is a different shape. If you figure out how to do it, please explain.
Russ
Oh my giddy Aunt! ................. I could so easily get seduced by something like this. I have a weakness for boats and things maritime as it is [Lived aboard for seven or eight years].
I've knocked out a couple of kits and one large timber model. But I've been hankering to get involved with a small sail boat in 1/24,Gn15,1mm=1" scale.
Something very similar to this .............
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I've pinched this image from one of Doris's pages I'm sure?
Here's a link to the page ................... http://www.papirove-modely.cz/galerie/thumbs.php?show=3640 (http://www.papirove-modely.cz/galerie/thumbs.php?show=3640) as there are some excellent work in progress pic's of filling and planking the hull. I've always been indidimated by the big maritime museum models and much prefer the more intimate "In the hand" kind of model. Gordon even forwarded a couple of drawings but nothing I felt confident enough to work with though. Anyone aware of anything like a small Broads style half decker drawing/plan?
Great start of course and I'll be keeping a keen eye on your progress.
Cheers bloke!
Ahhh...just lovely......I love a nice rib model of a hull. Makes me want to drag out my old set of ships-curves, and snuggle up to them.
Quote from: michael mott on February 28, 2012, 06:24:32 PM
Well today I discovered why boats are not built on their sides! My original game-plan was deeply flawed.
Went back to square one, and cut out a new keel plan.
Michael
Michael, following this thread with interest, but do tell, what was the problem? was it a construction dfifficulty or was it that it left the interior non open with that central fin?
You don't hang around Michael do when you have an idea..... lovely work
Probably teaching Granny to suck eggs here but you're going to have to be very careful when you start planking not to end up with a very wavy keel. Normally you would fit doublers either side of the keel, these doublers are slightly smaller than then the keel so that you end up with a step to lay the garboard plank on. Appreciate that you know you are going to have to plank either side of keel alternatively ..... I would suggest that you prepare both planks first so that you can glue in place almost simultaneously to minimise the twisting effect on the hull/keel.
Again being very helpful after the event ??? but sometimes it is easier to to increase the depth of the keel , gives you a solid base to clamp the Hull with when you are working on the topsides, then cut this part off towards the end of the build .
A thought, it might be worth fitting some insulation foam, the white beaded stuff between your formers would help stiffen and strengthen the keel and give a base to fit the planking on ................. of course you will fitting the planking with the correctly scaled trenails, with the plank scarfing at the regulation 3 plank distance ;)
QuoteYou don't hang around Michael do when you have an idea..... lovely work
Probably teaching Granny to suck eggs here but you're going to have to be very careful when you start planking not to end up with a very wavy keel. Normally you would fit doublers either side of the keel, these doublers are slightly smaller than then the keel so that you end up with a step to lay the garboard plank on. Appreciate that you know you are going to have to plank either side of keel alternatively ..... I would suggest that you prepare both planks first so that you can glue in place almost simultaneously to minimise the twisting effect on the hull/keel.
Again being very helpful after the event Huh but sometimes it is easier to to increase the depth of the keel , gives you a solid base to clamp the Hull with when you are working on the topsides, then cut this part off towards the end of the build .
Gordon,
Starting something is the easy part, it's the finishing that seems to be the problem with many of the projects that I do, I suppose that is why I barrel on while the idea is fresh, before I run out of steam.
Like I said at the beginning this is going to be a steep learning curve :-[
I missed the extra keel thing entirely.
I am planning on adding more card spacers between the ribs to add strength and stiffness. Perhaps I will add some extra keel on at the same time.
Granite,
Quotewas it that it left the interior non open with that central fin?
Yes the interior needed to be hollowed for the cabin, also the single sheets slotted onto the keel are a stronger method. I also think that there is some legitimacy to following even somewhat loosely the full size practice of working up the whole frames sections in pairs feel more shipshape somehow.
Marc,
There is definitely something seductive about the lines that are mostly only clearly visible at this stage.
Andi,
A small model in hand as you say certainly has a special charm about it. I have Donald McNarry's "Ship Models In Miniature." Where he shows full sized sailing ships that are fully framed and not more that 6 inches long.
So I will be looking for your start on a similar small craft then....? You need to help your aunt sit down.
Russ,
Yes I will explain, My understanding is that card templates have been used to determine the shape on full sized small craft, so I will likely be using stiff paper, maybe cover stock.
Ray,
Glad you are following along.
cheers Michael
The spacers were cut ready to glue in, I cut these long so that they could be cut in half, cereal box card.
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In retrospect I would have been better off building this little boat upside down.
Now gluing up some longitudinal stringers, I have tacked these in a few spots to see how this will work. fortunately this is a fairly simple hull.
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When these first spots are set I will move the blocks and tack some more ribs.
Yes this is definitely going to get more difficult, I can see this.
Michael
That really looks intimidating! -- Russ
Its OK Michael you almost past the hardest bit ............... keep the planks on the narrow side especially at the turn of the bilge and you will be fine ..... just needs a bit of care on the aft run up to the stern.
Think this is more watching you do it ............... rather than me
Can't wait till the morning when I can see your next post ;D
Another thought for you .......... on carvel planked hulls like these some people find it worth while to lay the planking on a diagonal rather than fore & aft ( like the way the RAF WW2 launches were done) it can be easier to bend the card around the various curves ............ you will get gaps but then you put another layer of planks on the opposite diagonal which fills them and it does give you a really strong hull.
Gee Gordon...and I thought rivet counters and "ze Sviss" were annoying. ;D ;D :P
All very interesting reading. A wonderful no cost education on something I knew nothing about.
M
Ok being glutton for punishment, I am continuing the steep learning curve. it is a good thing that i have all sorts of tools to butcher with! Some wine helps!!
I had to scare this chap away this afternoon as he thought it would be a good thing to eat the Boxwood tree that I planted on my little garden railway.
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There was also a wild turkey rummaging around Oh the joys of living in the country.
back to the boat.
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Using my incredible IDEAL http://www.ideal.de/component/option,com_idealproducts/cat,159/Itemid,100159/lang,en/ (http://www.ideal.de/component/option,com_idealproducts/cat,159/Itemid,100159/lang,en/) paper cutter that I found at the "Take it or Leave it" at my local recycling depot This tool is absolutely awesome!
I cut some planks from a gift box card.
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and started to glue them up.
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A lot of time holding the planks in place with my fingers,( greatest clamps in the world for small stuff) fingers that is.
michael
Knew it be worth waking up this morning ................... looking good Michael.
Warning shot across the bows noted Marc ;D
Michael, looking good quickly!!, ribs & planking, intriguing 8)
One of my first models was of a cornish fishing boat ( very generic not proto) when I was 12.
For my education, & this is not a criticism,
On Doris's hull construction I noticed she did several skins & sealed them before she planked the hull, are you doing just one layer of planking or several butt jointed overlaping layers first
How thick are the ribs? they look to be about 1mm?
Following with great interest
Real nice to see a boat here again! Wonder what happened to the French guy who posted those great fishing boats? Anyway great work Michael and this should look just as good. The whole construction looks exactly how the real thing would be built. By the way I don´t think you mentioned what scale it is ????
Anders
Gordon, you are too kind,
Granite, I will be doing a couple of layers at least that way I will be able to fair the hull. I will coat the planking with a sealer ,most likely thinned down carpenters glue. The harder cereal box card is .56mm and the softer planking card is .6mm
I will make the final planks from white 2ply Bristol board which seems appropriate for this model. Being a generic Bristol Cutter an' all.
Junior, The plans that I modeled this boat on did not have a scale. The length of the hull overall without the bowsprit is 239 mm or 9.41 inches. I have chosen the scale of 1:60 which gives a hull length of 47feet, the Bristol Cutters were anywhere from 40 to 50+ feet long.
Michael
Managed a bit more planking,
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At this point I decided that some diagonal planking would make the stern much stronger.
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and from the bow
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The diagonal planking is making the model very sturdy.
Michael
Looking good so far!
Mornings continue to be worthwhile ;D
Nice switch with the planking ...... does the MAP plan give you sufficient detail for the cabin, etc
So when you do the final planking, will you take the same approach: Straight boards wherever possible and then cut to fit what remains? -- Russ
Great job Michael. Thanks for all the pictures really interesting to see how this goes together.
Jerry
Quote from: marc_reusser on February 29, 2012, 02:11:33 AM
Ahhh...just lovely......I love a nice rib model of a hull. Makes me want to drag out my old set of ships-curves, and snuggle up to them.
Spring fever, Marc is in love again!!!!! :)
Jerry
Gordon, yes there is some detail on the small low deck house nothing on the interior , there is lots on the web though.
Russ, I was thinking along those lines initially, but I am thinking that after O have finished the sub planking I will fair the hull and paint it white then I will draw the lines of the planking and shape them to fit so that the planks have the correct shape. On some small craft you can see those oakum calking lines and they show. Once the hall is smooth it will be easier to place the thinner bristle board planks. I have noticed that the soft gift box card can be shaped reasonable well. On a smaller model like this, I would cut narrower planks in the future. I see this model as a way to learn what my limits are and what to do better in the future. I am going to see how far I can push the card, including the mast and spars.
The biggest lesson so far is regarding the shapes of the stations. It would be important to use some thin card strips to check them before gluing every one in place, The first station on this model is a bit out and would have been better if I had reshaped it early on. At the midsections they are very similar and the planks seem to fit pretty well, at the bow and sterns are where they get tricky. I can also see now why the early boat builders used sectional half models to confirm the lines, it is tough to confirm 3d compound shapes on 2d flat paper drawings.
Jerry,
Thanks for following along.
I hope to get the rest of the planks on today, I have a feeling that the bow will get a bit trying.
Michael
Learned a bit about the grain in the card today. I cut a few more strips on the cutter, and noticed how they curled. This can be a benefit or not. To get the strip straight I pulled them through my fingers a few times as you would a piece of wire to either straighten or impart a curve.
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Then glued on three strips to increase the size of the keel, Gordon had mentioned adding to the keel in an earlier post.
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I then added a wider strip to create an edge, this allowed the diagonal planking something to butt up against at the keel.
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Michael
Imperfect or perfect, I think this exercise would be a terrific article for a Modelers' Annual. Please save the progress shots, make sure one or two at this stage are in hi-res to illustrate how things go together, and jot down notes clear enough that I would be able to copy your work with no problem. (That is assuming quite a lot!) -- Russ
Russ Thanks I do in fact have all the shots in hi res and quite a few others, I will now be more careful on taking notes for you.
Michael
Evening updates as well now..... great ;)
That last shot Michael would make a great little slip way scene of a cutter under repair.
Keep going ................. will check in again in about 9 hours
Quote from: gfadvance on March 02, 2012, 02:12:20 PM
Evening updates as well now..... great ;)
That last shot Michael would make a great little slip way scene of a cutter under repair.
Keep going ................. will check in again in about 9 hours
There's your "out" Michael......don't worry...we wont hold it against you. (Heck, I'm so stressed just watching this, I would opt for it ...but then as we all know I rarely finish anything ;D )
Gordon, I hope your hand gets better soon so that we can see what you are up to.! in the mean time I am glad that I am providing your entertainment ;>)
I am looking forward to your own skilled interpretation of our world.
Marc.
Quote(Heck, I'm so stressed just watching this, I would opt for it ...but then as we all know I rarely finish anything Grin )
I hear you loud and clear!! it is of course my greatest failing.
I have all sorts of tools and machines, tons of raw materials, but the finish is my greatest challenge., Doris was my inspiration for this little model and to do justice to that inspiration I do hope to finish this little boat. I don't think I could last two years at it. so I hope to get it done while the inspiration lasts.
to that end I did complete the diagonal planking at least in one direction this afternoon.
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The process was a bit of a meditation, glue, place, hold, then repeat for the opposite side. I did notice that one side was getting a bit further ahead than the other , so I cut some tapered strips to play catch up.
Eventually I finished up the planking.
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Next I smothered the hull with some Green Squadron putty,
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After the hull gets faired, I will paint it white and then proceed to ad the final planks. formed from the 2 ply Bristol board.
Michael
Good progress Michael ................... although you will have upset Marc with the use of his favourite "putty"
Slight panic this morning, Internet connection was down, explained to my provider had to get on line to check out a model Bristol cutter and its progress .............. that got me to the top of the Que and problem fixed.
Michael do you want/need any info on calculating the width/shapes of the planks?
Another suggestion, great says Michael, when you start you final run of planking work down from the deck and up from the keel ............ this will mean you final planks are somewhere in the middle where it is "slightly" easier to fit the last ones in.
Gordon, I am not familiar with the issue of Marc's favourite putty, so cannot comment however I don't want to upset anyone so I have switched to my favourite filler red bondo spot and glaze putty.
In retrospect it would have been wise to have used a penetration sealer on the card before using the putty. Another lesson learned.
After I sanded the putty down there were all sorts of fuzzy sections. this was then painted with some latex paint., left to dry long enough to sand, (I use the reduced hours and minutes that all impatient guys use)
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then covered the hull with the red spot putty. very thin and spread with a scrap of card.
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Re-sanded the hull, the thing i like about the red glaze is how fast it dries.
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Then gave it another coat of white latex paint.
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when this dries I will sand and reglaze.
Michael
At this point I doubt whether anyone would realize you used old cereal boxes to build the hull. This is one of the more exciting projects I've seen in card modeling, partly because you are making such rapid progress. -- Russ
Coming along very nicely Michael. Are you using any templates to do your fairing or are you doing it all by eye?
Paul
Thanks Russ.
Paul I am just doing this one by eye. When it comes to building the larger one I will most likely use templates. I am really using this to see what can be achieved (by me) with the card for hull construction.
I have been reading some material on full size boat planking, in the "Boat building Manual" fourth edition by Robert M Steward. also there is a great PDF document on "Model Ship World"
http://www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/hptintro.php (http://www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/hptintro.php)
about planking model hulls.
It will be very interesting after this model is finished I do really intend to finish this one, to have a go at the larger model of the pilot cutter. I also have the plans for an 8 foot long model of Shamrock V from the 1937 vintage. That will test my mettle for sure, I have had the plans for a couple of years but I need to know what I am doing before attempting it.
Shamrock V was the only one of that vintage that was made of wood all the others were metal hulls. I think when it comes to building it I will use cedar and mahogany, I have lots of both and a good table saw.
Being distracted by some mind boggling ship model building, was a little humbling to say the least.
I repainted and re-glazed a couple of times.
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another coat of white latex the hull is pretty smooth now, so perhaps after the next sanding I will give a final coat with the airbrush before adding final final planking.
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I am now also really excited about building a larger model of this boat.
Michael
Quote from: michael mott on March 03, 2012, 01:46:59 PM
I also have the plans for an 8 foot long model of Shamrock V from the 1937 vintage. That will test my mettle for sure ...
Wow, you're going to have to eat a LOT of cereal for that one! ;D Meanwhile, as Russ said, at this point there's no sign of the humble origins of the material used ... and the rate of progress is certainly impressive.
-- Dallas
Dallas thanks for the kind words.
I have been spending a fair bit of time drafting this last few days, along with shoveling snow, writing some poetry,and attending to some other business.
but now back to the kingfisher.
A final brushing of white latex
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this is where I ultimately want to go, the frame is the first for the 63 inch long model. working on the small paper/card model is teaching me a lot and helping me to sort out all sorts of stuff.
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this shows the 1:60 model along side one of the frames (station 16) for the 1:8 model. the wood is Jelutong it comes from the tropics. and is used in patten making
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a good joint does not need to be clamped, but rubbed into place. it just takes a bit more time to prepare. there will be 24 sets of frames. I did think about steam bending frames, but decided to use sawn timbers instead, it is a bit less intense and will serve well enough for this first fully framed model. I pulled the die filer out of storage for working on the joints. What a wonderful tool it is.
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Michael
Golly tamales! That is nice woodwork!! Is there a trick to getting both halves to mate so closely? -- Russ
Nice scarf joints Michael... well done.
Paul
Russ The trick is to take time preparing the joint. I am very fortunate to have a die filing machine.
It is this tool, I purchased mine in 1979, to do a particular job and have only used it sporadically since. it holds the file perfectly at 90 degrees to the table and cuts on the down stroke just like a scroll saw, in fact I can set it up to use saw blades as well, but I enjoy using a hand jewelers saw as it cuts a very fine line and wastes little material.
http://www.wentztech.com/metalworking/equipment/die-filer/ (http://www.wentztech.com/metalworking/equipment/die-filer/)
Paul thanks.
michael
A little more progress with the big boat.
some of the wood re sawn for the keel
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and after gluing up a few bit for the stem
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another one of these multiple scarf joints.
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last shot for today, the little round puck like object is a sanding jig for sanding inside curves.
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Michael
That's some amazing carpentry work.
Dear Lord man! ................. at least allow us to catch our breath!
Actually this I'm sure is going to be another "must see" post to follow .... all power to your elbow.
This is really disturbing. First a paper pilot model whose construction techniques I find educational. Now an impressive display of woodwork. I'm almost too intimidated to visit my own forum! -- Russ
Ray I'm happy that you like my wood-butchering.
Andi glad that you are following along, you set a pretty high standard with your own work.
Russ What can I say? you know I cannot play a note, musically I got 8% in grade school, woodwork I did fairly well.
Today it was a lovely sunny day in the shop.
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which got me inspired.
I finished up the long straight parts of the keel, and began cutting the notches for the frames, I made a simple rest type jig to act as a guide for the 1/4 inch pareing chisel.
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The sides were cut with a #11 blade using a quick styrene square glued to the correct angle, if I were going to do a lot of these I would make it out of brass.
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Gluing the inside and outside sections of the keel were not easy to rub together so I used a bit of weight and a couple of small clamps on the stem.
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so I am pretty pleased with the progress today. I also threw together a level building board out of some scrap 1 inch K3 particle board and some 1/2 inch ply. and glued up a sloped keel rest to set the hull at the correct angle so that the frames are vertical.
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next the stern post and rudder housing.
Michael
Sweet!...and quite the nice shop.
M
Lovely, lovely lovely!
Just like seeing the real thing come to life!
I really enjoy seeing everyones work spaces!
I have 4 different dedicated "shops" and cant get enough of seeing others!
Of course they all have one thing in common - never big enough!
-Marty
Wow!!! That is really nice. And a pretty good workshop to boot.
Jerry
Beautiful work Michael! I would have just built a flatboat.
I see the quality of workmanship is up to your usual exceptionally high standard Michael .................. and if you think I am going to be stupid enough to offer anymore advice you are wrong :)
Keep up the standard and speed of progress so I can have a good start to my mornings ;)
I presume you are going to go back to the "paper hull" every now and again?
Thanks for all the kind words everyone.
Gordon, yes I will continue working on the little boat.
I stared on the frames today to get a better feel for the shape, frames 1 and 2 were made from single pieces of wood, the shaping of them at the keel was a bit tricky.
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Frames 3 and 4 are made up with single scarf joints.
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the 1 an 2 frames close up
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That's all for now.
Michael
I get the feeling this guy knows a little about how to construct wooden ships and boats. Anyone have a similar impression? -- Russ
I feel like I've brought a knife to a gunfight - that's how I feel!
I'm still looking at the shop...
Beautiful work Mike... so are you going to put a motor in this vessel and use it on the Humber?... ;)
Paul
Following with great interest Mike
great work & your doing something that I would love to do given energy & space & equipement etc.
just a technical question
In a larger scale like this are you going to have to chamfer the leading edges of the ribs
as it appears to my non nautical eye that the outer face of the ribs are parallel to the keel, but some are not neccessarily parralel to the hull face?
If so I guess such would be done once the rib structure was strong enough to take application of such tooling, spokeshave in full size or did shipwrights have a different tool for the job?
Good morning all.
Russ, thanks, I did build a 1:1 13 foot gaff rigged sailboat in 1970, which I sailed, as far as a plank on frame this is my first attempt, I am applying the accumulated skills of 50 years of mucking about with wood and metal. I am a keen observer of what others do.
Andi, knives are much better tools for carving wood, guns make a awful mess of it.
Eric, I built a garage for my wife, cars belong outdoors as far as I am concerned but the car sit tucked in the bottom corner the rest of the space is my answer to a basement or a second floor, I am not fond of stairs. Tools are left over from my commercial model-building days 1964-2004 with a couple of short breaks in-between.
Paul, that is an interesting idea, I am hoping to discreetly add some RC in order to sail it, because I do want to model the cabin details.
Don, you are correct regarding the shape of the ribs they will indeed be tapered and I have accounted for the additional wood which changes contour from keel to deck. When all the ribs are set in place I will use a longitudinal strip as a fairing guide to determine the transitions from the keel up to the deck. I will do this later as you say after the there is some integrity to the entire assembly. the ribs are just resting in place at the moment.
overall I think it is easier to work in a larger scale if you have the room. this is really the same issue as those encountered between working on an HO model or 1/72nd aircraft kit and their larger counterparts. The smaller things get the more difficult some things get. when it comes to wood the nature of such organic materials present further challengers because we cannot scale nature, molecules are molecules. I notice that the model ship builders use an assortment of woods that are very fine grained. Holly, Swiss pear, Ebony, Yew, and a few other s I cannot recall at the moment. When I am splitting firewood or working on the house when I come across a particularly fine grained straight grained piece of wood I put it aside for model work. I have a few bits of assorted exotic woods but for the most part they don't grow locally, so I always keep a eye out for broken furniture, the cull bin at the local hardware and lumber outfits, for some reason most people seem to want only highly figured wood for decoration. I am the opposite fine uniform straight grain is perfect. Preferably quarter cut.
Anyway rambled on long enough thanks for all the kind words and I should get out to the shop and probably light a fire because I got home late last night and didn't do it, so the temperature is likely a little low out there this morning, it is still dropping to - 8c at night outside, even though the sun warmed up the shop to + 20c by yesterday afternoon.
The sun is up a few degrees above the horizon now so looks like another nice day to do a bit of work.
Michael
Michael, Thanks for taking the time to explain, I had not thought about the contour changing verticaly, but now you mention it its obvious!!
It makes one marvel all the more at the design of the brain, eye, hand cooperation that allowed craftsmen of old to produce mathmatically complex shapes without the aid of computers, especially shipwright
Hi Don, yes we seem to rely on digital methods more and more these days, and yet the making of a small model that is aesthetically pleasing and then transferring the lines of it to a lofting floor is actually not that difficult. Here's the key though I can still use a pencil on paper and transfer information from one medium to another, try doing that with a computer in the 3D world. OK so now I duck while the 3D printer affectionados throw plastic shapes at me. ;)
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Moving right along the stick, using smaller sections for the larger curves to conserve the amount of wood that I have.
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Sections for station seven rough cut ready to sand the scarf joints.
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After the glue has set I will sand them to the drawing profile.
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Cheers Michael
Set up the new frames today
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Michael
Good progress Michael (as I hurl some plastic shapes in your direction ;D). Are you going to brace the top ends of the frames prior to fairing the rib profile before planking, especially as you get closer to the stem and stern?
Paul
Hello Paul, absolutely, The frames are only sitting in place temporarily I will be setting up the deck beams and gluing it all together before doing any of the fairing. and of course the stern and rudder posts neet to be glued up befor the frames are glued.
This is all dry assembly.
I caught tree of those plastic bits ::)
Michael
[quote .
I caught tree of those plastic bits ::)
Michael
[/quote]
Better not hug them!! ;D ;D ;D :D
Edit,
The Jelutong you are using for these last ribs, are they cut from stock or are they from a previos application, I see a joint on the end of one piece.( before cutting)
Is it a hard wood to work, if it was used for pattens it would need to be robust I would think?
Good morning Don, You are correct the Jellutong for the last frame is made from the frame that was originally for a set of Shoji screens. The frames were 7/8 x 2+ I have been re-sawing the frames to 5/16 x 7/8 for the boat frames. I am working at reusing as much of the old material I have been saving for this journey into boat models.
A friend gave me a storage box full of pretty decent sized chunks of Cherry the other day. I will be able to re-saw them for cabin work planking.
The Jellutong is a great wood to work with, it carves like hard cheese, so it is a bit "notch sensitive" is silky smooth, cuts against the grain well. I first heard about it when I worked at Allmodels Engineering in Acton W3, we uses it for Architectural block models. The tree grows in Asia and is also tapped for the latex sap used in Chewing Gum so occasionally there are little oval holes in the wood where the sap knives were inserted into the tree.
Michael
How is it for long-term stability Michael?
Paul
Hi Paul, as far as I know it is very stable, I carved the half hull out of Jellutong that is sitting over the window above the lathe in 1975 and then painted it with automotive lacquer it looks the same as the day I polished it.
I think it is one of the reasons that it has been used for pattern-making it is a very stable wood.
michael
A little more progress.
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Michael
Graceful. -- Russ
Definitely graceful ... but for some reason, the photos are making me crave spare ribs! ;) -- Dallas
Ribs?
I was thinking standing rack of lamb?
Anyway beautiful just as it sits!
I think once you finish just the ribs set up a proper background for a beauty shot!
-Marty
Ah c'mon Mike. Your work with railroad models blows me away and now your doing it with ship models. You are a truly gifted man.
Bill Martinsen
Stunning stuff.
Lovely lines and curves.
Cheers
John
Thanks for all the comments guys.
Russ I am happy that you think the lines are graceful.
Malachi, Spare ribs now we are talking.
Marty, a beauty shot? wot more do you need?
Bill, thanks for the compliment. the model boat thing has been with me for as long as I can recall I have put it away for so long, and finally it has broken through to the fore. It is hard to not think about anything else at the moment. I am already feeling guilty enough, I have not touched anything remotely connected to rails since embarking on this boat. I am working on a solution for the swap project as I am also in touch with my candidate in other ways, I think the outcome will work out well in the end. I have not logged in to SE in a while. but I will honour my commitment one way or another.
Wesley
thanks fore the fine words
John, I am happy that you find the lines acceptable.
here are a couple of shot of the work to date it is an interesting journey to say the least.
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I hve changed the building board and have reworked a number of the frames to get a smooth shape to the hull. the planks are being pegged as I go along. they are certainly taking a while because I have to wait for the glue to set before moving on to the next plank. This will end sometime, then I can fair the planks and proceed with the second layer which will be at least half the thickness of the first layer, and more traditional in appearance. then a few coats of sealer to help to get the hull waterproof.
this is how I hope to have the finished boat look.
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Michael
Quote from: michael mott on April 12, 2012, 08:56:44 PM
here are a couple of shot of the work to date it is an interesting journey to say the least.
Beautiful work! Thanks for taking us along to see the journey.
-- Dallas
A work of art and thing of beauty. A joy to watch it come to life.
Marc
Beautiful - a seductive medium and subject. I envy you everything about this project and look forward to constant updates; amazing that one can become attached to something by proxy .............. but I have.
Great work.
I am in awe of anybody who can scratchbuild a boat from wood, especially to the standard you have achieved so far. -- Russ
Just lovely!
How very relaxing it must be, and satisfying!
Are you intending on sailing it? (R/C)?
-Marty
It looks almost big enough to float an actual person.
Dallas I am happy that you are coming along, this is a far cry from the Macton Locomotive Works, but I think that Bertrand's Great Uncle was somehow involved in shipbuilding and that his son, who would be Bertrand's cousin was involved in the supply of timber to the shipyards. A loose link but a link never the less.
Marc, thank you for the kind words coming from you I take it as a great compliment.
Andi, Thanks I am pleased that this (little) project has captivated your imagination, perhaps a small lapstrake dingy on a trailer behind the Bedford. Oh the hours I tooled around the South Downs with a bunch of guys in the middle sixties in a Bedford van.
Russ, Thanks, the proof of course will be if it floats!
Marty, yes it is my intention to have the boat on the lake with a radio to control the sails and rudder, how well I pull it off is yet to be seen.
Ray, interesting comment, I have been thinking about biulding a model of a J class yacht from the 30's that is big enough to sit in, sort of like a deep keel kayak.
A bit more work on the planking.
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and this is only the first layer!
After this first layer is finished and faired I will be overlaying the dress planks which will be done in such a way to imply the caulking on a real boat. Now there is my real challenge, this is where I get into Marc and Chuck Doan territory, scary indeed.
Michael
Beautiful Michael.
The build itself is a work of art but I also notice the sign of craftsmanship all around ............... the end keel supports, no slapdash bits of wood here but nicely shaped and sanded, even the work base has a routed edge to it.
As always I look forward to further updates
Hi Gordon, thanks for noticing the supports. The other thing I am trying to work a little more tidily. I have done enogh planking on one side for now and will start the other side tomorrow.
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I think I might be off the three plank rule in a place or two.
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Michael
Just lovely. Brings me a smile and warm feeling when I look at it.
Marc
Looking superb Michael !!!
Wish my workshop, well actually "bench" looked half as tidy..........and it's only 5% of the size of yours.
Really glad you started the other side, as even with the strength of the ribs you fitted was starting to worry that the hull may get pulled out of shape.
Oh and I like the 1/2 hull above the window as well
Utterly disgusting. -- Russ
Well, Michael, you certainly got a project thats going to need dedication ( & focus ) to see through to completion!!
looking GOOD
Perhaps I missed it, but what is the length over all??
Hi Marc, thanks for the encouragement. By the way how is your own maritime model coming along?I hope you haven't given up on it.
Gordon, I am really working hard at keeping things tidy, old habits die hard and I am a slob to be honest, that said there is a lot of merit to being able to find the right tool right when you need it instead of the (now where did I put that tool, bubble over my head) frantic search for it under a pile of assorted detritus that seems to accumulate as we build.
Russ I totally agree!! absolutely disgusting I don't even know why I continue with this charade called modelbuilding! When I could be hard at work greeting folks at the Walmart door :P :P
Don, yes it does seem to get bigger by the day. Don over all the hull will be 63 inches with a additional 24 inches for the bowsprit. The mast will be 80 plus inches. By the way the last time I was in the UK Judy and I spent some wonderful days on the north coast of Devon. When I was a kid we used to go to North Devon for our summer holidays, Linton and Lynmouth, Coombe Martin, Poorlock hill with its 1 in 4 grade always gave my Dad the willies, probably something to do with an old 1939 Ford 10 cwt van with poor brakes. and thanks for the compliment on the boat.
Anyway back to the boat.
the planking continues and while waiting for the glue to dry I have started to make the planking for the second layer, this will be pine and 1/16 inch thick. the first Cedar layer is a bit higgledy piggledy with plans that are all aver the map as far as consistency goes regarding the widths. The second layer will be more clean and will be more prototypical regading the widths and overall appearance.
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I cut up some 1x8 pine into 24 inch lengths and then stripped it up into 1/16 thick planks one 24 inch length yielded 100 lineal feet of planking.
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I cut a few other offcuts into some thinner planks for some other projects down the road while I was at it.
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I did a little test with some tiny model aircraft rivets just to see how it would look.
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and the difference between the # 68 drill in the pin vice and the dental pick was negligible as far as preparing the wood for the rivets.
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so this is where we are at regarding the cedar on the hull.
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I'm off to Jasper national Park for the Libraries conference tomorrow so no work on the boat for a couple of days, just communing with the mountains and doing a bit of poetry and watercolour painting.
Michael
The Libraries conference was wonderful.
It was held in this environment, well not exactly here but very close by.
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The picture is looking toward the original site of "Jasper House" a trading post in the 1800's
Anyway back to the boat, I was asked to explain how I went about making the planks. I hope that this helps to explain the steps. I must premise by saying that I make the saw inserts from MDF and bring the blade up through the insert to create a zero tolerance gap.
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First I set up the saw to make the first cut on the plank. This creates the first clean edge on the store bought board.
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I am using a hollow ground finishing blade with a zero set on the teeth, I set it about 1/16th above the thickness of the wood.and take a first cut to remove the commercial edge of the plank.
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After the first cut, I have indexed the plank over so that the next cut will produce the planks for the model, to the thickness that I want. This might take a couple of cuts to get just the right thickness.
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Next I mark the insert along the edge of the board with a hard pencil to have a line to move the board to. the indexing of the board each time, might at first seem like a lot of work, however with a little practice it is the only way that I have found to produce consistent results safely.
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The wood is then pushed through and the plank falls away
Index over to the line and repeat until the board is down to about 1/2 inch, I use push sticks while pushing the board through.I hope this answers the question.
Michael
That is some patience and dedication. thanks for the SBS.
Question though, instead of the pencil mark, why not clamp a stop to the table at the front edge...before the blade, tha you can just then push the wood to be cut, up against? Looks like you could even just screw or fasten one to the MDF insert.
I was going to suggest a removable "pin" as you would not want to saw with something in place.
-Marty
Looks like it's working well for you Michael. The removable registry pin or stop is an excellent idea, put it in place long enough to set your fence then remove it before cutting. You definitely don't want a fixed stop, or you risk being speared on kickback. After cutting, do you then run the planks through a planer for final sizing?
Paul
Marc, Marty, Paul, thanks for the feedback, regarding some form of indexing stop, For the reason that Paul articulated kickbacks are something i have some nervousness about. Some years ago I was cutting some maple strips the section was approx 5/8 x 1/4" it kicked back I was standing just to the side enough that the wood passed me and landed on the table behind me, the sick was stopped by a gallon paint can I went to pick up the stick and found that it had penetrated the paint can right though and was leaking paint now on the opposite side.
My saw is an old one and the fence is a little finicky but I am used to it now. The eye is a wonderful measuring tool with a little practice.
Paul to answer your question, no The thickness is within a few thousands mostly and the odd one that is either too thick or thin goes into the odd pile. once the planks are glued they will need a little fairing anyway so I am not too worried about a few thou on this one. the blade leaves a smoother finish on the side of the large plank(which becomes the outside of the thin cut plank) and a slightly rougher finish on the blade side of the thin cut plank. I think it is most likely due to the more flexible nature of the thin planks.
Michael
Sounds good Mike. Looking at your cut stock, they all looked very clean, so you obviously know what you're doing with a table saw.
Yes there's nothing like a cut off coming at you at several hundred feet per second to get your attention. Kickback is something to be avoided at all costs, even on the miniature saws, it can do some damage.
Paul
Micheal, thanks so much for posting the how to. I found a video on you tube which is really very close to a couple of the suggestions and think I will give it a try. Pat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FullQWi2ZwM
Haven't done much lately Still waiting for Carpel Tunnel Surgery. Waking up with pain in hands and middle finger on left had numb all the time, when things improve I will get back to the last two planks before moving on to the pine planks after the black cotton coating. I did get out sailing this evening and we came in second in the pursuit race. I was on the sheets, low wind so it was not too difficult.
Michael
Michael,
I have had CT surgery done 3 times on different spots.
I never wait anymore, do it as soon as I can schedule it!
You'll be back to working in less than a week!
Cant wait to see her finished!
-Marty
Hi Marty, that is encouraging. I hope that I don't need more than one though. My surgery happens on the leFt hand on October 18th and on the right hand on November 15th.
In the meantime I have managed to do a little bit on the boat.
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I did finish the planking of the cedar, I was originally going to do a second layer of planking. I have changed my mind and am pursuing a plan that will see the hull finished with a few layers of enamel to make it waterproof.
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I will be using multiple layers of enamel to make the hull fair alternating between dark blue and white and using automotive spot filler as needed
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Michael
Impressive!
Good grief! Laudable. -- Russ
Beautiful lines!
Nice to see the final form.
Good luck on the 18th!
-Marty
Best of luck with the wrist surgeries! -- Dallas
Looking good Michael. Glad to know you're getting a little shop time. Best of luck with the CT surgery...
Paul
Thank you all for your very kind words, I am not doing any fine stuff at the moment but sanding and painting with the paintbrush is working for me, and as you say Paul it is getting me some shop time, after the surgery I will not be able to do anything in the shop but gaze for a couple of months, So I am trying to make "A Little hay While the Sun Shines" although it felt a bit winterish here today.
Anyway I was able to do the gross work of "Wax on Wax off" this afternoon on the port side.
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Then after the sanding of the white layer on the port side I applied the blue again this time changing the direction of the brush stroke to up and down.
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So tomorrow I will sand and give the starboard side the white coat while the port side hardens up
Michael
Well now that it is all smooth and perfect!
I stumbled across this;
http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2012/10/11/quick-tip-for-thin-strips/?utm_source=WoodsmithTips&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=6423 (http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2012/10/11/quick-tip-for-thin-strips/?utm_source=WoodsmithTips&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=6423)
Seems like a simple good repetitive solution for cutting thin strips.
I know you dont need it but other might.
Cant wait to see her under sail!
-Marty
Marty it will be a while before it is under sail, however I have been working on it a little bit and the number of coats of paint both inside and out have been too numerous to count.
be that as it may I have been working on the the hull and the rudder on and off over the last month. The surgery was postponed for one month, so the big cut happens on the 15th of November.
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I have been told that the rudder will be too small.
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So I am looking into changinging it to be better for the model.
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Arnold is checking out the fit of the cockpit.
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Finally the rudder fitting for the deck. the deck is white pine half lapped and glued with black carpenters glue.
Michael
Excellent - and a pleasure to see you posting. I am however always aggrieved at all that beautiful work being hidden behind paint, I know it's necessary but can't help but mourn the natural elegance of all those ribs - the upside of course is the natural grace of the vessel.
Decking is looking the part and I'm relishing the prospect of the detailing.
PS - I covet your workshop! - I'm trying to put a small (hobbyist) one together myself, but it seems good small machine tools are like hens teeth?
Looking good!
Was wondering about yor surgery.
The rudder looks awfully small though.
Marty
Andy, thanks for the kind words, the woodwork on the deck and mast and spars will all be varnished with brass brightwork.
Marty yes the rudder is too small and will be replace with another one this shape.
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I was counseled by some RC boat modellers about the size and shape. Just one more learning curve.
Michael
This whole project has been pretty astounding. Best of luck with the surgery. Those guys always scare the heck out of me. -- Russ
Thanks Russ
I made the new rudder today from a laminate of two sheets of 1/4 inch x 12 ply aircraft plywood so 24 ply overall I glued them with epoxy.
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made a new shaft from some 1/4 inch square and some 3/16 round and epoxied it into the slot at the leading edge.
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overall shot
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Michael
Continues to be beautiful work Michael. The new rudder looks much better. I also like the look of the staggered treenails on the decking. She's going to be a real beauty when ready to launch.
Paul
Michael,
Good looking boat. I expect it will be fun to sail. About the Carpal tunnel surgery. Not a lot to fear. I went through it some time ago. Was back in my shop much sooner than I had expected. good luck on the surgery.
Bill
That hull is so sleek, it's amazing. Really great craftsmanship.
Good luck with the surgery!
Wonderful progress, and lovely workmanship.
My first reaction about the hull and ribs was the same as Andi's., but once all the paint is done and the reflections and highlights pull along the hull, it will really show the elegance of her form.
I hope the surgery went well, and you are recovering comfortably.
Paul thanks, there is definitely something special about wood that often eludes the eye. The new rudder shape is based on council from folk who know about these things.
Bill, thanks for the thoughts and your comment about timing. I am eager to get back to work on a number of fronts. the hands are healing well.
Ray thanks for your thoughts and well wishes. I am still in awe of all the stone that you have moved on your railway.
Marc, thanks. Yes recovery is almost complete. Thanks for your kind words regarding the model, you have no idea how difficult it was for me to cover the wood with paint, but given that this was also a learning exercise, I am looking forward to building a hull in the future that will show the planks as they are. There is so much more to planking than meets the eye. I now have some inkling of what that is.
Michael
Switching gears today, I have been working on a roller reefing boom, the first boom was made from fir but I changed my mind and made a new one from some clear spruce that I had kicking around. I also decided to make the boom with roller reefing.
This is what I am after
http://www.classicboat.co.uk/articles/nereis-part-5-boom-and-mast/ (http://www.classicboat.co.uk/articles/nereis-part-5-boom-and-mast/)
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I had a small worm that was the right size diametrically, a bit too long but that was an easy fix. I had no gears that were close so opted to make one
I had an old 30 tooth clock gear in the spares box so I used it as a template on my small gear cutting mandrel.
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in order to get the angle of the cut across the face I squashed the worm into some clay that was lined up square with the vice and mandrel. Then rotated the table to line up the fore and aft cutting across the gear face.
The next task was to bore the hole in the end of the boom, I was not able to do this on the mill drill so I turned up a sleeve that fit over the end of the boom out of a scrap or plastic bearing material. to act as a guide for the hand drill.
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this worked very well.
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A bit of work reshaping the worm and softening the edges of the gear they mesh well enough that that it will work.
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Next to make the bracket to fit to the goose neck.
Michael
Nice work!
Beyond me - but impressive never the less.
Gosharootie! -- Russ
DAMN!!!
Stunning work.
Very nice!
Ray ,thanks
Andi, its just a bit O brass.
Russ is that a word?
Wesley, thanks
Chuck, appreciate you comment, as I'm working away I often wonder "how would Chuck do this?"
Today I did a bit of milling and a fair bit of filing and fiddling. I worked on the frame section started out with a cube of 1 inch brass.
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The tube that fitted to the boom was a brass 3/4 pipe nipple that I bored out to a 1/16th wall thickness then milled a slot and then filed it to shape, it was really hard getting it to seat properly onto the boom. My carving was pretty ugly under the brass. my hats off to all you figurehead carvers out there.
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Tomorrow I will make the keepers for the worm. I will use some 0x80 machine screws to bolt them into place, and file a square onto the shaft, for the handle.
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Michael
Just a bit more fiddling about with the boom and goose neck.
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I am pleased with the way it is turning out.
Michael
Marvelous! You could actually go sailing with that!
Just fiddling he says... !!! Michael, that looks fabulous, it really does look the part [is that a pun]?
You seem to be taking this build to a serious level - are you intending it to be a "working" sail boat?? - you know, as in Radio Control or something?
Fabulous!
"Now I have to take up knitting, again. I'm going to go sit in the corner now and suck my thumb." If these are the results: keep knitting! Looks fantastic!
I've just read the beginning of this thread - nice to see how you worked with card. I think it's a great, versatile material. And it's cheap ;).
Volker
Hi Ray, and Andi, yes it is my intention to sail this model. I don't know much about radio control, other than it works and that many folk know a lot about it and how to apply it. So it will be a steep learning curve. Also I do not have the sort of money that the radio control equipment costs, I have time but little cash.
Chester thanks.
Volker, Yes the beginning started out simple enough but then I got more interested in building a bigger boat that I could sail, I do live at a lake and really enjoy sailing. I keep reading about the model builders who build the large models of 17th and 18th century sailing frigates and some are simply mind blowing with regards the workmanship.
Check out this chap's work for instance.
http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/ (http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/)
http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/fleuron/fleuron6.htm
http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/fleuron/fleuron9.htm (http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/fleuron/fleuron9.htm)
http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/fleuron/fleuron16.htm (http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/fleuron/fleuron16.htm)
http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/fleuron/fleuron27.htm (http://www.modellismodarsenale.com/fleuron/fleuron27.htm)
My model pales in comparison to this chap's work.
And the amazing thing is there are folk all over the world who do things like this, who devote their time to making wonderful objects, whether of ships, airplanes, Locomotives, or any other form of expression.
It is what keeps me sane. I have given up on the news because it is so depressing, people pointing sticks at each other, polluting the planet , greed, you name it.
The artists and for me that includes all forms of creative expression, from Music to painting and poetry with all the wonderful mediums between, bring me joy to behold. There is something new to discover every day.
Michael
Anything I can say is an understatement. Simply stunning and beautiful work. Real Art. Mad skills.
Dear God! - that's puts anything I've attempted into a harsh and unflattering light.
Simply, deliciously ... Marvellous.
Progress continues.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_9266x800.jpg&hash=8debe2d8b1bd71fca9778bac6d2bcdd77193b991)
however a problem with the edge of the deck planking requires a top layer of planks to cover the mistake. seen here at Walter's feet.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_9268x800.jpg&hash=79b44b4f9fbb6677fff344a6a58fffd573c12811)
The edge board was missing, and I prefer the look of the Douglas fir anyway. this shows the edge board in place.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_9272x800.jpg&hash=318fe39be788e911ed8fb88725b6f452c17f8c8f)
The boards were just pegged temporarily to see how it would look and this will be the way forward (pun intended)
So now to finish the sub planking the on to the top planks.
On this version of the refurbished pilot cutter the new owners preferred the more upscale look of the Douglas fir to the old worn pine work decking anyway.
Michael
Just continous to get better Michael.
Been following your build on other forums and was a little bit concerned when you started the planking but see you are well on your way to sorting that out now ........... not sure on these cutters but it was pretty common on similar ships for the cover board to be thicker than the general planking.
Have seen it up to an inch proud of the planking with the corner edge rounded-over.
I have seen few people who are as good as you at both wood work and metal work ............. that combination of brass fitted so accurately to the mast is a thing of beauty
It's a wonder to me how you get everything to fit together so nicely.
Awesome workmanship Michael!
Philip
Gordon, ... next time you are concerned about my rambling off in some strange direction, without due regard for the established customs of fabrication.... speak up for God's sake man..... you would have saved me many hours of worry. :P ;).
Ray the fitting together neatly is a combination of a bin full of not so well fitting together bits, and a lot of time spent cutting openings smaller and then filing away until it fits.
Philip, thanks and welcome aboard.... this journey has a way to go yet.
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The supports for the bowsprit penetrate the deck planks and go right down to the keel. I also finished the sub planking today.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_9293x800.jpg&hash=f26a45ff208faf31a2bb8a65332fb3d311949f25)
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The holes through the deck planking are filed after drilling a series of holes and then using an exacto saw to open up the hole. and then used a square file to finish them.
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The supports for the bowsprit are coming together the knees are cut from some salvaged 3/8th maple flooring planks. and the upright square 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch from a discarded baby's crib I found at the dump.
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Michael
All in all, not especially bad at this stage. -- Russ
I've just come straight from Doris's thread to this one: and they taste exactly the same!
Great job Michael - it leaves me in awe.
Thanks Russ I do my best....
Andi thanks for that compliment, as you know I was inspired by Doris to start this model, Her work just floors me.
Michael
Quote from: Andi Little on January 28, 2013, 12:55:22 AM
I've just come straight from Doris's thread to this one: and they taste exactly the same!
Great job Michael - it leaves me in awe.
...yeah, the bitter taste of inadequacy. Maybe if I get some Scotch I can wash it away. :-\
Bourbon works better...
Quote..yeah, the bitter taste of inadequacy. Maybe if I get some Scotch I can wash it away. Undecided
Marc surely you jest!! your skills at this modelmaking caper are exemplary.
QuoteBourbon works better...
Well I'm not so sure about that, a good 18 year old single malt takes some beating. I do however like a good beer.
Michael
Drilled a lot of holes today.
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Finished putting in the treenails in the sub planks.
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The port side is finished and sanded ready for the top planks and the starboard is close.
Michael
Little bit of work completed the top Fir planking is now in place over the pine, the first picture shows the scraped and sanded finish ready for the glue caulking.
After the caulking is completed there will be a final scraping before oiling with teak oil.
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The caulking is done with carpenters glue diluted a little with Tamiya thinner and a little Tamiya black applied with a disposable syringe. I cut a new batch of Fir planks that were a little lighter in colour and finer grained.
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I dug out a couple of really old models today and placed them on the deck for comparison, they were started way back in 1980 the Bounty hull is carved with the masting all from maple and the masts all rise up through the cross trees as they would on the full sized ship if she had not sunk in Hurricane Sandy. The carronade is from Longridge's book called The Anatomy of Nelson' ships it was started in 1974
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_9407x800_zpsc0322745.jpg&hash=035699934967a93e942312de728752e9ff773a3c)
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the stern is made from maple strips cut on a micro saw that I mounted on the lathe cross slide. with the blade held in an arbor in the chuck.
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the old models look a bit rough but interesting for me to revisit them after all these years.
Michael
The look pretty good to me!
Gaak!....I can't see any pictures.
Marc, why can't you see any pictures?
michael
I have been spending most of my time here working on the boat.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/74-bristol-pilot-cutter-by-michael-mott-18-scale-pof/page-24 (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/74-bristol-pilot-cutter-by-michael-mott-18-scale-pof/page-24)
Michael
We are not authorized to view your jpegs, an oversight I chastised you for in another thread. Again I implore you to post a few jpegs (not links) here although it might not lessen your penalty time in the corner. On the other hand, one never know, do one? -- Russ
Quotean oversight I chastised you for in another thread.
Russ my deepest regrets for not learning the lesson the first time round..... having just turned 65 I must put it down to a senior moment, and perhaps the few beers.
Before I go on with these few pictures it used to be really simple to use photobucket, it seems to get more complicated every week. What a palava to link a few pics
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0057x800_zpsd9bb0d5c.jpg&hash=e66647b5e229f96451b7c07ffa12dee77bf8aba1) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0057x800_zpsd9bb0d5c.jpg.html)
This picture shows the mast cap it is 1/4 inch thick and cut out with a jewelers saw it took 20 minutes.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0090x800_zps89c72424.jpg&hash=b18a89ded03e8e902a060cbb1ac2eaffcce3aa9e) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0090x800_zps89c72424.jpg.html)
This picture shows the Gammon Iron it was fabricated from a ring of cast brass cut from a plumbing fixture and silver soldered to a 1/16th inch plate then wrapped with some rope made from some polyester cotton thread.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0177x800_zpscf00b469.jpg&hash=587140395b0af8d6b70e885b13a3bf7c82805acf) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0177x800_zpscf00b469.jpg.html)
This picture shows some shackles made from brass rod necked down in the lathe and then bent and drilled and tapped for the pins, some of the pins were also held with retaining rings
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0225x800_zps77101d76.jpg&hash=fcbcdf415734e3702490a5aa6c2ec62465193fd5) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0225x800_zps77101d76.jpg.html)
This picture shows the Anchor Winch it is made from Maple and Clear Fir the posts are tennoned through the deck. the winch still need the brass plates to reinforce the square holes for the cranking bar.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0243x800_zps4160198f.jpg&hash=93be625b159bc6dc8529593a27dec031eaad3527) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0243x800_zps4160198f.jpg.html)
This shows the end of the bowsprit which was silver soldered and also the pulley block and shackles
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0406x800_zpsa59dafae.jpg&hash=7f7e708052ec1eb235e9d5b7212750391fe1ab52) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0406x800_zpsa59dafae.jpg.html)
This shows the shrouds which will need to be replaced with wire ones because these are too stretchy, these shrouds are made from 4 ropes of three strands with 6 yarns in each strand of #CE50 Gutterman 100 % cotton
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This last picture shows an experiment with a wire forestay it is made from a 2mm bicycle brake cable. It was then seized with different wires and a line made of some rope formed from polyester upholstery thread.
This simple card model boat has turned into a rather long learning curve for me about building model boats. There is a long way to go yet but I am enjoying every minute of it.
May I come out of the corner now....Pleeeze
Michael
Okay. Step out of the corner and go to the head of the class. -- Russ
Wow. Just beautiful; really lovely craftsmanship and detailing. So glad to see that you have been building on this. Cant wait to see it in the water.
Stunning!
With the wood and metal work this is very, very impressive!
Glad your back here posting.
I also use photobucket, any assistance I may give please ask.
-marty
Man, that is very impressive and beautiful work Michael!
As the others have said, very impressive! I'm continually amazed at the craftsmanship.
Michael,
just a question to satisfy my ignorance,
as I have NO first hand knowledge of boat building.
When doing house flooring using wood planks, all end on joints are usually over a support beam, ie both ends receive support from the beam.
I notice from photo 5 on this page several deck planking joints where there appears to be no cross beam.
( judging from the nailing pattern)
Is there a different approach in marine construction?
do they add extra support at such points?
or is there a double layer to the decking in real life that gives that support?
I love boats & their shaping & how its acheived, but I am no sailor, strictly a landlubber!
So am following your build with interest
glad to see your wrist problem have not stopped your progress
Russ, Marc, Marty, Chuck, Ray, and Don, thanks for your kindness regarding my work, it sometime feels as if I'm flying by the seat of my pants and other times I feel in control. It is all about the journey though in the end and not the destination, I am learning a great deal while building this model, I'm mostly in uncharted territory for me on this one.
Don to answer your question regarding the planking on small craft (I cannot answer to large ships) the frames are too narrow to be used for the support for the ends of 2 planks. A plate that is twice as long as the plank is wide is common. regarding the double planking on the deck This is something that would be possibly dome by someone refurbishing a smaller craft similar in a way to laying up the planking over a plywood sheet as is done on some modern yachts.
I would think that for the most part though the planking would have been lifted and replaced on most boats. My model is somewhat of a hybrid and it seemed to me that the second layer would be a simple way to achieve the look I wanted rather than rip off the old deck to use it as a base for the top layer.
Michael
The shrouds are going to be replaced with some stainless steel ones because the rope ones are too stretchy. I will be using some 1/16th diameter aircraft cable that will need to be blackened, How I am still researching. the ends that will be wrapped around the dead eyes will be first shrink wrapped with a short length of black shrink wrap which will simulate the worming parceling and serving.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0428x800_zpsc728d805.jpg&hash=bb7cffa2a6173a0e9041f5f70e011b05b1715e97) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0428x800_zpsc728d805.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0434x800_zps50efcc83.jpg&hash=974abdbb00dd0e9403a06727caeb9d0e78e09676) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0434x800_zps50efcc83.jpg.html)
The red is obviously the wrong colour but it was all I had. I need to go to the city to get some black. The texture looks close enough for the purpose and because it will be subject to some handling I think that it will work with the seizing after it is wrapped around the dead eye.
Michael
I don't know if it's available in your part of the world, but here's a product that works well for blackening stainless steel: InstaBlak SS370, from Electrochemical Products, Inc.
http://www.epi.com/c/black-oxide/stainless-steel/room-temperature-black-oxide (http://www.epi.com/c/black-oxide/stainless-steel/room-temperature-black-oxide)
Ray thanks for the link I will check out and see if anyone up here carries this product.
Michael
Not made any comments on this build for a while now Michael as I am still highly embarrassed over offering you some help way back at the beginning of this thread! .......... Boy was I was shooting way out of my league
I have to say that this type of modelling is exactly right for you , as you are able combine all your woodworking and metal working skills along with an artists eye ......... Whilst everything you have created is entirely practical and to scale each piece is a work of art in its own right
I am looking forward to seeing this boat in its natural element on completion
Gordon good to hear form you, Hope all is well in your world.
The work continues on the shrouds, a few tests to find the best way to make them not only functional but to look half decent as well.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0475x800_zps51f08302.jpg&hash=85ab7284ec56c7f72a5de03558e8db4be4b1c843) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0475x800_zps51f08302.jpg.html)
The hardest part of this area is to get the shrouds close in to the dead eye without kinking the wire
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0479x800_zps1f64a6d8.jpg&hash=6a423f161a2f4ccf5a2cbaca1fc3bec2af1dd5cb) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0479x800_zps1f64a6d8.jpg.html)
A few different ways of setting them up.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0494x800_zps4e17428a.jpg&hash=0ad4fc4ad4cce7919d7d36b9286c5eb93239e1c3) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0494x800_zps4e17428a.jpg.html)
The bottom one is looking not too scruffy the serving thread is coats button and carpet thread. wrapped over some clear drinking straws
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0496x800_zps1b8112ef.jpg&hash=0284d8265fe9706620dd7255cd1fd8944aeb9831) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0496x800_zps1b8112ef.jpg.html)
I will continue with the tests because I would like to get the wire a bit tighter next to the deadeye. I did try using some round nosed pliers to creat a tighter curve but I was not happy with the way the pliers bit into the heat shrink.
Michael
They all look perfect. You are striving for "perfecter". -- Russ
Would it be possible to anneal the loop of wire and bend it around a slightly smaller former than the deadeye and then slide the heat shrink tube on before final fitting ?
Agreed they would look even better if you could close that gap a bit
Russ Thanks, I'm getting there.
Gordon that is and interesting Idea I have never tried to anneal stainless, didn't even know it was possible.... is it?
today was a good one I think I have got the right sequence.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0501x800_zps8dc1559b.jpg&hash=670bedbc607fe8c226d7008006cf01a129303594) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0501x800_zps8dc1559b.jpg.html)
back to copper clamps and cut lengths of shrink. once all assembled they were shrunk. the crimping of the copper was achieved with a pair of pincers I acquired some years back that were well worn and did not cut well they were perfect for crimping.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0505x800_zpscd54f65e.jpg&hash=8ac0eaa5b1c63190f4ccbb07ced6eb722449377d) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0505x800_zpscd54f65e.jpg.html)
next I needed a marlin spike I would not lose among the other pins and assorted sharp metal bits, so added an ebony handle.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0509x800_zpsf4172fb2.jpg&hash=267f2d476fcfa6a4f631f52894cbf056f6a9f30d) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0509x800_zpsf4172fb2.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0511x800_zps6166e435.jpg&hash=afce6ff2d6198503b703f5ecc5047b6fe7c3b566) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0511x800_zps6166e435.jpg.html)
The Marlin spike worked nicely and allowed the nylon thread to move between the wires easily.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0513x800_zps7bd87c3d.jpg&hash=b2cc57fc30d248f767be6b33d3d38f5ca741a192) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0513x800_zps7bd87c3d.jpg.html)
I am pleased with the final outcome and will continue with making them this way and I hope that practice will make the seizings look a little tidier.
Michael
PS I know the dead eye is flawed, I will have to make another one.
Anneal stainless steel? No point asking me , you know what I am like with metal ;)
Nice work on the revised deadeye, make your own marlin spike ......... That's why you are the craftsman and I am a bodger , that old bent and twisted screwdriver is what I would have used and therein lies the difference between us !
Ain't nothin' wrong with that'n. I thought the others were good but now I can tell the difference. Adequate. -- Russ
Adequate be buggered ......... bloody marvellous more like!
What a great job: spent a few years sea sailing off the East coast, Orfordness and that sort of area. And spent many a time swinging around shrouds like that - last time was in a force eight squalling ten and staring up at the bows of the Hook to Harwich ferry.
Only reason I didn't fill my nappy was I was puckered up so tight. ... ain't been to sea since.
[Used to race Gentlemen's gaff rigged yachts]
Gordon, Russ, Andi thanks for your comments.
yesterday I finished seizing the other three shrouds, and I realized that I did not want the forestay to lay on top of the shrouds. there are some great drawings in the book "The Gaff Rig" by John Leather ISBN 0 229 97489 9 published by Adlard Coles Limited. That show some different variations on Cranes for raising the Gaff, some with a seat for the forestay. so this was today's project after finishing up all the seizings on the shrouds.
I needed to make the crane so that I could determine the new length of the forestay.
I did a scribble on some 1/8th inch thick brass sheet and drilled a few holes.
Then I used the jewelers saw to fret out the shape
The long section was then turned in the lathe while held in the four jaw chuck and threaded 5x40 I will drill and add a 1/16th pin in the lower end to prevent it from rotating and also file a seat for the forestay before it is locked onto the mast.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0516x800_zps4ab36ec8.jpg&hash=6cbe9e72909d972dd58b2c77297ecf38921faaa1) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0516x800_zps4ab36ec8.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0519x800_zps9290627b.jpg&hash=b72813475f603d2870887bceccf091153f5545d3) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0519x800_zps9290627b.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0520x800_zps926d96eb.jpg&hash=e9d48265d139e7ed25d50c78ca55d570d475b2c9) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0520x800_zps926d96eb.jpg.html)
Today I put the boat on the floor so I could work at the top of the shrouds I chose to fix them in a similar manner to the lower ends. by dropping the model to the floor I could stand and the bolster was at 65 inches above the floor which is a lot easier to work on than 65 inches above the bench and the top of the topmast was 84 inches.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0539x800_zps34fcbfe7.jpg&hash=35b7869591f77b63008789b3477b114c30b3c06b) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0539x800_zps34fcbfe7.jpg.html)
I set all the deadeyes first then wrapped the shrouds around the mast and added some tension as I threaded the crimps and shrink I began with the forward starboard the forward port then hooked on the forestay which I made from 3/32 it was a lot tougher to work with than the 1/16th, then continued with the rear starboard then rear port shrouds.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0547x800_zpse33e0863.jpg&hash=1702f5c02618a309921c336d1d13ce224caa51d2) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0547x800_zpse33e0863.jpg.html)
I will do the seizing tomorrow to give my fingers a rest. Time for the new boom, first the jaws were glued on then given a rough shaping. I will add some leather when the fixings are completed on the jaws. the wood is clear fir.
The brass goose neck will be removed and a platform fitted for the gaff boom
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0545x800_zpseefa46b8.jpg&hash=3765edbcdda385f28b22b69e9d71ddf1ff1ad724) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0545x800_zpseefa46b8.jpg.html)
then a smaller mast started with a square section of clear fir and shaped down so that it could be slid up through the yoke, now I need to make the Fid and metal plate.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0542x800_zps88b08584.jpg&hash=e3625740932ced651023de0a51c6a228e3c05535) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0542x800_zps88b08584.jpg.html)
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I am quite pleased with the rigidity of the mast now, the steel shrouds made a huge difference.
Michael
Gosharootie. -- Russ
Spectacular!
I remember doing all that mast stuff when I built my International One Meter.
I can not wait to see her under sail!
-marty
Very nice modeling, Michael.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Russ I had to look that one up in the Crardbord Diconary ;)
Marty thanks.
Gordon thank you.
I have done a few more bits on the rigging first i made a thimble for the Jib stay.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0605x800_zps2e017a8b.jpg&hash=ab24c2313fb3e0b311cdf25a24d28b839b45fda6) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0605x800_zps2e017a8b.jpg.html)
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0619x800_zps2f23b4fc.jpg&hash=5a3527997b8d2aafaa680903814b8384bc888ea6) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0619x800_zps2f23b4fc.jpg.html)
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Next I did a little work on preparing the Gaff by planing down a bit of fine grained spruce.
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today I worked on the double blocks for the Gaff, they are made from some Degarme (lemon-wood) The sheaves are 3/8ths diameter the brass strip is 1/8th x 1/32nd.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0634x800_zps95de4605.jpg&hash=6eef24141016798fbc92abc0a0934024be8b55af) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0634x800_zps95de4605.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0641x800_zps2c4e0e6c.jpg&hash=5b2284c935604fbf47d35ca6db84c5ae9fea6b4f) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0641x800_zps2c4e0e6c.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0650x800_zps33fb96a6.jpg&hash=09ebd388c945eea41ccee95ee6ab5b243e0a68cf) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0650x800_zps33fb96a6.jpg.html)
I set the blocks up with a weight to see how they would hang, now I need to finish the Gaff.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_0651x800_zps955e6df7.jpg&hash=14bf4a2ac30fd8dd7e7eab97158139010ef279a9) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_0651x800_zps955e6df7.jpg.html)
Michael
Impressive. -- Russ
I'm not even on the same planet as this guy!!!
Bliddy marvellous - yet again!!!
SPEC - FRIGGIN - TACULAR!
Seeing how the blocks & thimble are created gives real appreciation.
-Marty
Holy moly....just keeps getting more amazing.
True artistry in fabrication, both the doing and the result. Goood stuff!
Michael,
As always, I enjoy your marvellous work - Great craftsmanship and brilliant SBS!
Peter had asked about this cutter and yes I am still picking away at it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_2883x1024_zps2746ade8.jpg&hash=1456372cbc8abdd9abb3d66d4153911ac7320b98) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_2883x1024_zps2746ade8.jpg.html)
I am particularly pleased with the main-sheet blocks the embossed nameplate made by embossing the reverse side with a 9h pencil into some annealed .002" brass shimstock.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_2681x800_zpsvuy8v3mw.jpg&hash=1f46bb1e6bdae60016e7a1c7cc42926c088af772) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_2681x800_zpsvuy8v3mw.jpg.html)
the companionway doors are mahogany with hinges made from 10 thou brass sheet
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_3306x800_zpsyhwbwo6h.jpg&hash=1ba70acb0a80b3e7468a83c403bb4c2ff0300172) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_3306x800_zpsyhwbwo6h.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_3053x800_zpscqesuans.jpg&hash=fa66f073e1a6446708af6c5c4cc9dc644e043ab8) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_3053x800_zpscqesuans.jpg.html)
The hull is now painted and has undergone a float test the first test used 66lbs of lead ballast in the form of used wheel balance weights
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_3855x800_zps0ii3klqm.jpg&hash=c8cdb1bbc520132ff4cea2a5625c37358b8396de) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_3855x800_zps0ii3klqm.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_3862x800_zpsbhusipwf.jpg&hash=0b137463d8d35a52f88957f39818bd266269677e) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_3862x800_zpsbhusipwf.jpg.html)
She will need at least another 40lbs of ballast to bring her down to the waterline.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_3866x1024_zpssfb0g7qi.jpg&hash=a255ee5113fa3553225e92a4f35888c86b002755) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_3866x1024_zpssfb0g7qi.jpg.html)
Currently she is in dry dock waiting for me to get motivated to get some work done
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2Fkingfisher%2520boat%2FIMG_4384x800_zpstos8uh6a.jpg&hash=93fa8a4931fdd591936837d02c33f68a16b7e51a) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/media/kingfisher%20boat/IMG_4384x800_zpstos8uh6a.jpg.html)
Michael
Incredible craftsmanship!!!!! And......a scale marlin spike. Allan
Really fine work! Love the homemade hinges.
Thanks for the update! That is going to be a heavy model!
Thanks for the compliments.
QuoteThat is going to be a heavy model!
I realized right away after the float test that I would need to be able to do two things
One have easily removable ballast billets rather than the random wheel weights that we had dropped into the hull for the first test, I have been melting the weights into a small piece of 3 inch steel angle with the ends blocked with some 1/8th steel flats these are approximately 2 lbs each and can be lifted in or out easily.
The other is to have a launching cart like this one which is being built from a recycled kiddie cart.
Michael
Well, yes, you do seem to have made some adequate progress. -- Russ
Hmmm.. as I always thought, a ship modeller is an extraordinary species!
Carrying a 100 lbs boat into water, that's like carrying my wife into the bath tub each time (and she's less then 50 Kg ;-)
Seriously: I am really impressed how you can bring together functionality AND esthetics in such a way. Wonderful!
Regards, Peter
Michael, She's looking super! Does she have a name yet? Will you have a video of her sailing?
QuoteCarrying a 100 lbs boat into water,
Peter when Judy and me did the first test and I picked up the boat to take it out, it almost gave me a hernia and that is why I built the launch trolley, I won't be doing any more carrying of such weight.
Bill, the name of her is Kingfisher and thanks. I am hoping to launch her on her maiden voyage next summer, most of the fabrication is completed. The last of the big jobs now is making the sails, she will free sail using the sheets and hardware which all function as on the real boat. Since we do not have a model boat pond I will have to sail her in the swim area of the lake.
Michael
Free-sail?!?!
You will just let it go?
No rudder by R/C at the least?
I have an International One Meter that I love to sail.
A very technical vessel if one were to get involved in racing. (not me!)
Marty
Marty Yep just set the sails for the wind I too love sailing my big boat it is a 20foot yawl see here
https://vimeo.com/138085093 (https://vimeo.com/138085093)
I started with a derelict fibreglass hull
I will choose the times to sail her very carefully the joy for me is in the building more that sailing the model I can get all the fun sailing that I want getting out in a good 20 knot blow on my full size boat.
I am still struggling with what sailing boat to build next, I really like the cat boats of the early 1900's also the Gloucester fishing smacks, I do have the plans for an 8 foot model of Shamrock IV which is very tempting.
Michael
So cool to see this progress. Most impressive.
I have brought the boat into the house and set up in the spare bedroom/office so that I don't have to keep so much wood burning in the workshop during the winter. It is a good thing that our ceilings are 10 feet.
It has taken a while to reassemble the mast and I am now working on the cabin which has been changed a little to accommodate a skylight. similar to this one http://www.pilotcutter.ca/gallery_files/stacks_image_122.jpg (http://www.pilotcutter.ca/gallery_files/stacks_image_122.jpg) http://www.pilotcutter.ca/gallery_files/stacks_image_360.jpg (http://www.pilotcutter.ca/gallery_files/stacks_image_360.jpg)
I did a quick pencil sketch of the one for the model.
Michael
That's better than museum models because it can actually sail in addition to looking great. Have fun working on it inside the house.
Lovely!
I would not want to pay for the acrylic box for it!
Marty
I just discovered this project. Wonderful, wonderful work. Allan
Beautiful work, Michael.
Gordon Birrell
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonbirrell/
Adequate. Why haven't you finished it yet? -- Russ
QuoteWhy haven't you finished it yet?
Because it was raining!
Thanks everyone else for your kind and understanding comments.
michael
Michael; this boat/ship is beautiful. I envy your craftsmanship and your tools. In my prior furniture making life I had a Powermatic 5HP 10" table saw and loved it.....Allan
Michael, tsk tsk. Excuses excuses. EXTRA! EXTRA! UMBRELLA INVENTED!! -- Russ
Bill, Marty, Allan, Gordon, Thank you for your kind remarks, Russ I'm ignoring you because as Liza said there's a hole in it dear Liza
I have started the skylight, it is Mahogany the drip channels are cut into the lower half of the top beam.
Michael
A little more work on the skylight.
michael
Beautiful work! The "gutters" under the hinged side of the windows is interesting. It's something I never realized was there but now that I see it, the need is obvious.
I agree with Ray! Having built a couple of ships from kits ALL YOUR WORK LOOKS INCREDIBLE TO ME!!!!...Alan
I really enjoy each installment. -- Russ
Thanks for all the kind remarks.
I have finished the lights and gave it all a wipe of Tung Oil, now am adding the hinges these are a little tricky to make out of .010 brass sheet. when all 8 are complete i will drill and countersink the holes.
michael
How do you fold such long strips of brass so smoothly, without it warping?
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Hi Ray
I use the following sequence
1 anneal
2 set into vice ready to make first fold
3 fold over using a solid bar of any handy material
4 remove from metal vice
the rest is in the next post michael
continuation
5 hold the folded piece in wood vice to close up some more
6 remove from vice when parallel
7 place piece over rod that you need to be the pin diameter
8 while the rod is held up close the vice almost all the way to narrow the gap
continuation with the last pics
9 the fold should now look like this
10 set the piece back in the vice with the rod so that as the vice is closed up the rod gets squeezed upwards to form tight loop
11 the piece should now be fully closed like this.
Michael
Thanks. I need to get a good vise one of these days.
When they built the full size boat they probably went to a marine supply store and bought hinges. No such hardware is available to a modeler in your scale so you had to fabricate your own. That would be true of many parts for your model. Conclusion: You have to be a better and more multi-faceted craftsman than anyone who constructed the original! -- Russ
Russ thanks for that, I had never thought about it. But it is true that a lot of the people who make models have to make their own parts.
Michael
Michael,
I assume you cut off the short flag so the hinge is formed just like one in full scale?
Just score and snap with a sharp blade?
Good stuff!
-Marty
Marty yes I cut it off, with a jewelers saw with a short #7 blade to lessen the flex cut almost through then fold back and forth to snap off.
michael
managed to do a bit more work on the skylight Had a bit of trouble fitting the hinges tricky little devils. Had to redo them all with some relief on the lights to clear the heads of the small rivets that were a substitute for flat head screws.
Michael
I had to pry off the hinges from the lights and relieve the wood to allow for the hinges to be slightly oped underneath but not affect the look from the topside. they all sit down flush now. Next i have to fit the Lexan.
Michael
Well, of course you had to relieve the wood beneath the hinges. We all expected that. Satisfactory. -- Russ
Holy cow, that is some fine miniature cabinetry!
Just before Christmas I did some drastic surgery of the the Cabin because it was bothering me. I like the lower profile better.
Michael
That must have been a hard choice to rework.
Chuck yes it took a lot of pondering, I had been looking at it for over a year and there was something that kept nagging away in the back of my mind. It began to come together in my mind when I cut down the forward section where the sky light is.
From that point the progression seemed to slowly come together, I did want to keep the roof part and the hatch, I will start over completely if I have to but if I can salvage part of the work then why not.
Because this is a generic model and not one of a 1:1 boat the design choices are sometimes tough to finalize, they just have to sit and cogitate for a while.
Michael
Were you able to trim the excess or did you have to completely rebuild the base? -- Russ
Russ, I was able to cut the bottom part away from the top using the table saw and a small back saw, it was tricky but did work. So far all I have done is remove material the new companionway will need additional material now once I decide on the final angle, which is pretty close because the companionway doors are one of the factors, and I like their size.
Michael