Tozer Portable Steam Engine in 1/16 scale.
The Tozer portable steam engine built by the John Willis Co. of Columbia South Carolina.
Portable steam engines.
The Crest Line book, "Encyclopedia of American Steam Traction Engines" by Jack Norbeck has around 140 photos of these portables and man, they are very cool. This is just what I've been looking for: horse drawn, no gears, no reverse, details like a hinged stacks. So far I haven't been able to find any drawings for these or for the traction engines. I found this Tozer on YouTube. That is better than a drawing. The video shows most of the detail all the way around the engine.
Tozer video on You Tube...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8KJm9U0O_E
Tozer thread on Smokstak forum...http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87883
Here's some of the basic measurements that the owner Davide L. so kindly provided.
1- Boiler diameter...2'2"
2- Boiler length...9'8"
3- Front wheel diameter...3'4" with a 4 to 5" face
4- Front axle length...6'0"
5- Rear wheel diameter...4'4" with a 4 to 5" face
6- Rear axle length...6'0"
7- Large pulley diameter 3'8" with an 8" face
8- Small pulley diameters...2'4" with an 8" face.
9- The distance between front axle to rear axle...7'6"
10- Smoke box length...1'2"
11- fire box length...3'4"
( I will add more measurements as I get them.)
These two photos shows my progress on this model. The front wheels and the large and small pulleys. I'm waiting for the tubing to arrive from Plastruct for the rear wheels.
This is my first set of spoke wheels I used 2-1/2" Plastruct tubing for the front wheels and 3-1/4" Plastruct tubing. For the rear wheels. I first draw a circle and divided it into 18 segments. I use this to mark the wheel along with a small square.
The jig is made up out of styrene and goes up against the fixed jaw of my vice with a stop to keep it from moving from side to side. I added four stops on the front to keep the wheel in place with a center line to line up the drill-bit. I also added one stop on the inside of the wheel at the top to keep the wheel from collapsing when drilling. Now I line up the mark on the wheel to the center line on the jig, and tighten up the vice and drill. After the hole is drilled loosen the vice and move to the next mark. This jig is only good for this diameter of tubing, so I will need to build another jig for the rear wheels.
The pulleys are made from Plastruct tubing with the spokes made up out of three layers the center disks out of .020" styrene and 1/8" half round styrene on both sides. All of the styrene is from Evergreen Scale Models. This gives me a 2" spoke where the prototype are a little larger.
Photos...
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Oh boy, another awesome Scratchman build!
You have revealed one secret: You have some machine tools and don't do all that perfect work by hand with a file and a drill. Now I feel about 1% better. -- Russ
He has a lot of neatly sharpened wooden pencils too. ;) -- Dallas
Ohh, an old Unimat (I think).
I may be the only person on this forum that has been to Gordon's workshop! So I feel so privileged! But make no mistake; it's like Willy Wonka's Chocolate factory in there with a touch of the Hobbit and Jules Vern Mixed in! The tools he uses are conventional, but there are no CNC lathes or digital anything. I could stay in that room for a week with out coming out and not see everything. If you believe in God, and Pray there's a heaven? You will know for sure the minuet you walk in because all you can say is :
"Oh My God!", OMG, OMG, OMG over and over,............
Oh Yea, forget about the fact that Gordon is the nicest person you'll ever want to meet, too
MPH
"I have been to the mountain top!"
"Gordon is the nicest person you'll ever want to meet"
While Gordon and I have yet to meet face to face we have spoken on the phone at length. I could not agree more with your assessment. It is often the case that true artists and craftsmen also are first rate human beings.
Russ
Thanks guys for your comments. The Unimat is a SL 1000 that I got in the early 70s. The motor is getting old so I don't use it for any heavy work just light work
Here's some more dimensions for the Tozer
12- Hub length...1'1"
13- Measurement from outside of the large pulley to the out side of the small pulley: 3'9". The total length of the main shaft is 4'2" (there are 2-3/4" from the end of the big pulley to the end of the shaft and 2-1/4" from the end of the small puller to the end of the shaft: total: 4'2").
14- The length from the bottom of the boiler barrow to the ground: 2'8".
15- The length of the stack from the top of the boiler to the hinge: 2'10".
16- The length from the hinge to the top: 8'4" plus 6" for the copper crown
17- Center of cylinder from the top of the boiler: 9-1/2" and the diameter of the cylinder is 11-1/2".
18- The back-head length from top to the bottom (not including the ash pan): 3'5".
19- From the back-head forward to the three points the engine makes contact with the boiler:
1) back head to the round cast base for the engine: 1'4" (the round casting base for the engine has a diameter of 10-1/2")
2) back head to the middle support 4'4"(where it start). The total length of this support is 6"
3) back head to the beginning of the support of the flywheel shaft: 6'8". The total length of these supports is 10".
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Like everyone else I am happy to watch the progress of this model. I right off noticed that it was made in Columbia SC. Since that's about 20 miles from me I did a little research. There is a photo of the John A. Willis Engine Works from 1907 on Flickr - http://www.flickr.com/photos/23117774@N04/2587588613/
It adds that the foundry and machine shop were located at 711 Gervais St., Columbia S.C. \
A quick search on Google Maps and .. well .. small world. The map shows it was located across the street from Tsunami Sushi .. cool .. I've eaten there.
The second link mentions that there is one at the SC State Museum in Columbia. I'll have to take a trip down there specifically to find it.
This photo shows the two assembly jigs, the two drilling jigs (one showing the front-side and one the back-side), the boiler core with the first styrene wrap. The two wheels that have been primed are my first design and will be used on another project or use them for clutter. I modified the hubs on the second design to help hold that end of the spoke. Using liquid plastic cement, the wheel doesn't get stuck to the jig. After I remove the wheel from the jig, I add a small aluminum ring on both ends of the hub I use a thin CA and let it run around the spokes. Also at the bottom is two sets of pulleys.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Thanks Ed for the link to the photo.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That's one picture worth a thousand words. -- Russ
You make the (black) pulleys the same way?
What holds the spokes in the hub? Drilled too or just glued.
great pica btw!
mj
Marty
The pulleys are made from Plastruct tubing with the spokes made up out of three layers the center disks out of .020" styrene and 1/8" half- round styrene on both sides. All of the styrene is from Evergreen Scale Models. This gives me a 2" spoke where the prototype are a little larger.
I made these pulleys the same way I made the gears and pulley on the Buffalo Pitts engine.
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1634.0
1- Cut a disk out of styrene and mark the spokes. (I cut the disk a little larger than the tubing and sand it down to get a tight fit.)
2- Drill a hole for the axle and add one side of the hub.
3- Add the half-round to the same side.
4- Cut out the disk between the spokes.
5- Turn over and add the hub and half-round.(The half-round pieces are cut a little shorter so the center disk is the only part that goes into the grove.)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That last photo is fantastically information. The oblong spoke technique is definitely a keeper.
Thanks so much for sharing such great information, Gordon.
Thanks Ken. Here's a photo of the boiler core for the two models. I will build the steam pumps separate from the boiler. The steam pumps will be built on the three strips of styrene that goes around the jig, and will be added to the boiler after painting. Now I can start building the engine and start adding detail to the boiler. The three styrene strips are not glued to the jig, so it will be easy to remove the the pump from the jig.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's a photo of the front wheel assembly. I still need to add the ends of the axle.
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Here's a photo of the smoke stack core.
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The stacks is 12" in diameter. The biggest brass tubing I have is 21/32 or 10-1/2" diameter. I first cut the 21/32" brass tubing 2' 10" long for the bottom and 8'4" long for the top. The bottom piece I smashed one end to make it out of round. Next I added to the bottom a 1/32 " anchoring post that goes over the top of the 1/16" anchoring post in the boiler. To join the top to the bottom I added a short piece of 5/8" brass tubing. After seeing how skinny the stack looked I decided it needed to get closer to the 12" diameter of the prototype. I replaced the top piece with 3/4" plastruct tubing that would still fit the 5/8" joiner piece. On the bottom I added 060" x 100" long styrene around the the deform brass tubing. To my surprise the styrene strips stayed parallel all the way around. After sanding I added a layer of Mr. Surfacer 500 to start filling the gaps. After this layer was dried I sanded down to the styrene. This gives me a good core to add the rest of the detail.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Tricky. Nice update. -- Russ
I need a new wheel for my mountain bike after a fall on the weekend. Could you perhaps make me one? ;D ;D
As always its great to see your updates.
Here's a photo of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I just got this list of measurements to help with the engine parts.
- Diameter of exhaust pipe (long piece): 2-3/8"
- Diameter of the two round ends: 3-1/8"
- Length of the two round ends: 5-1/4"
- Dimensions of the curved piece that came out from the slide valve to the round bigger end:
- Width: 1-3/4"
- Thickness: 1-3/4"
- Length (non considering the curves, from the slide valve box to the round big end): 8-5/8"
- In-side of bearing to in-side of bearing: 12-1/8"
- Bearing box width: 7-3/4" to the outside up to the round eccentric ( the bearing box is made of a -round part and square part, this measurements is for the total width of the round bearing box)
-5-7/8" to the outside up to the square end of the bearing box, where you can see the bolts and nuts
- Slide valve eccentric total width: 2"
- Eccentric width: 1-1/2" (where there is bolted the eccentric bearing)
- Crank shaft weights width: 2-1/2"
- Piston rod bearing width: 2-1/2"
- Total width of cranck shaft weigths and piston rod bearing: 7-1/2"
- Governor pulley total width: 2-1/2"
- Governor pulley belt width: 2"
Gordon Birrell http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's four photos of the engine.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I suspect your model will look better than its full size counterpart. -- Russ
Your combination of quantity and quality is just amazing.
On the average, how many hours a week do you spend on modelling?
Here's one more photo of the prototype.
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Here's the two sets of wheels finished and painted.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
The wheels turned out great!
That is absolutely beautiful work Gordon :D
Cheers - Gus
Fabulous work again Gordon. I love this build, thanks for bringing it to us.
Here's four photos of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I may of said this before? ............................ You really are very good at this.
Huzzah!
Satisfactory. But you already know that. -- Russ
Looking great Gordon!
I've been adding the last of the parts to the boiler. The water glass was built out of two Trackside Details small valve # 225 and brass tubing I also used small valve # 224 for the valves on the water system.I also added the Hubs on the wheels
The whistles are Trackside Details # 87. I used ¼" brass tubing to make the whistles bigger for the round top I used a ¼" bead. The photo of the parts gives you a good idea of what I did.
After the painting was finished I used Dullcote on the red engine and Glosscote on the brass engine.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Most adequate. -- Russ
Beautiful work on the piping ... including that perfect little curly-Q going up to the gauge. The delicate chain on the whistle pulls certainly takes advantage of the larger scale well. Wondered immediately why in the heck three whistles ... but I suppose having three tones would allow for quite an elaborate range of "vocabulary" to giving signals. Anyone know for sure? -- Dallas
Beautiful Gordon.
Beautiful!
A work of art ,super detail and a lovley subject , modelling to perfection
Barney
here's two photos of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
As ever ... just so bliddy impressive.
Always a pleasure, and a treat: to see your updates.
Magnifique mon brave!
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Thanks guys for your comments. Here's two photos of my progress.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Stunning!
You're building two of them?
Gordon,
Always wonderful :-)
Thanks guys. Ray the second engine will be painted green like the prototype. I carved the link for the exhaust pipe out of a piece of wood . I painted some of the small detail and did some weathering. Nothing is glued on yet so things are not sitting right.
Here's two photos of the new work.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Even at this stage, most satisfactory. -- Russ
Here's three Photos of the progress that I've made on the second engine. The two engines still need the governors and belts.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Cool, swell, awesome are some words that come to mind.
Looks great Gordon, those wheels and the pulleys turned out really well .
Beautiful as always. That is an interesting machine for sure.
WOW!
That Green really stands out!!!
I know a 1/16 machine shop that could use a steam engine! ;)
-Marty
Just beautiful!!!!
Jerry
Super enginering in miniature - lovely finish nice colours and it's different
Barney
Just superb. Truly a miniature museum piece.
Marc
Thanks guys for your comments. I would also like to thank Davide the owner of the prototype for his help with photos and measurements.
The red engine is painted with Floquil Engine Black and Caboose Red out of a rattle can with a Dullcote top finish. The green engine was also painted with Floquil Engine Black and Caboose Red. I wanted a shiny finish so I used a Gloss cote for the top finish. For the green paint I used Humbrol metallic mist green #50. I mixed the paint 50/50 with lacquer thinner. This paint is very shiny so I used Dullcote for the top finish. Primers.. no primer for the engine black. I used engine black under the caboose red, and Mr White Surfacer 1000 under the green.
Here's two photos of the Red Tozer on my five ton truck.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
While the work is satisfactory I would be more impressed were it constructed entirely of tea leaves. -- ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on August 26, 2012, 12:59:11 AM
While the work is satisfactory I would be more impressed were it constructed entirely of tea leaves. -- ssuR
There's no pleasing some people . Well , I think it is very nice . Well done ,
Nick
Astounding work as always Gordon... well done.
@Russ: you do realize that by making such a statement, he will no doubt now build something absolutely remarkable out of tea leaves just to put you in your place... ;D
Paul
The Romei...Here's three photos of an Italian portable steam engine. This may be my next project. If I decide to built this engine I will start a new thread.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Now I really like that ............. especially the construction of the main wheels and spokes
I agree, the construction of the main wheels/spokes is very interesting. I don't think I've ever seen spokes done that way before.
That is one cute little bugger. I wouldn't mind making a working 1/12th scale of it in metal. I wonder how many blew up from tilting? Let it be a little low on water and try to move it, the water will slosh against the hot end plate, flash steam and then wham! Where is the firebox?
Here's a photo of the red Tozer with the last parts added.
.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Really beautiful!
Gordon, do you realize that if you put a plow on the front you will have a Tozer-dozer? -- ssuR
Very nice. It took me a while to realize that it is a model. I thought it might be a full size restoration project.
Bill
Quote from: finescalerr on September 03, 2013, 12:44:08 AM
Gordon, do you realize that if you put a plow on the front you will have a Tozer-dozer? -- ssuR
Oi , Reinberg . In the corner ... now .
Beautiful!
Quote from: 5thwheel on September 03, 2013, 07:43:17 AM
Very nice. It took me a while to realize that it is a model. I thought it might be a full size restoration project.
Bill
Had the same initial impression -- first caught me as a shot of "the real thing" ...
Looks great! As does your diorama setting ...
Thanks for taking us for the ride,
Dallas
That is so cool!!! Beautiful work.
Jerry
Lovely build and it's different
Barney
Thanks guys for your comments.I'm getting measurements for the Romei and this first steam vehicles made by an italian carriages firm of Pistoia, a big town near Florence in Tuscany. The vehicle is a steam tricycle built in 1894. It could reach 16km per hour.
I will start new threads for these two projects. I may build these in a larger scale 1:12 scale or 1:8 scale.
Here's two photos of the Steam Tricycle.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7316%2F9779663944_a0fc833bf3_b.jpg&hash=9437eabe4b90b5efde18b3b057986ccb71ca4354)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.staticflickr.com%2F3686%2F9779655405_15093fc948_b.jpg&hash=647088901b42ce053ffdafd50dd80a2d71231925)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
That's an attractive and interesting machine!
The cobblestones are pretty neat too.
A beautiful machine! Not sure where the brakes are-that would be a lot of weight to get stopped. The larger scales are certainly tempting. A lot of real hardware can be used.
Gordon, that is one beautiful machine for its time. I'm sure you will do it justice.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 16, 2013, 08:51:16 PM
A beautiful machine! Not sure where the brakes are-that would be a lot of weight to get stopped. The larger scales are certainly tempting. A lot of real hardware can be used.
Chuck they probably stop it by reversing the engines.
Bill
Very nice model.
But this is a known problem that the first steam engines no brakes.
So the Frenchman Cugnot in 1769 had also why, with his steam car, the first car accident.