The plans for this model are in the May/June 1990 Gazette by Al Armitage. Along with the plans there are three photos all of the right side of the engine. I also referred to the book "Encyclopedia of American Steam-Traction-Engine" by Jack Norbeck. This book has 20 photos of Buffalo Pitts engines. On the internet I found some Buffalo Pitts patent drawings for a clutch, valve gear and some other parts.
Here's two photos of my progress.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm7.static.flickr.com%2F6116%2F6350124069_169d891f21_b.jpg&hash=f75f689db0aed2e13155463da124456198f5dce9)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm7.static.flickr.com%2F6099%2F6350868844_6819691065_b.jpg&hash=a6d784170d0d665b5fdbd9686355dfdcfc86b6dd)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
This will be another great one. But did you finish the 0-4-0 that was meant to fit on the truck? Or did I miss that.
That looks awesome Gordon. I look forward to your updates.
You have the patience of a saint and the tenacity of a bulldog, young Gordon. Yet another masterpiece is in the works. -- Russ
Holy crud, another masterpiece already!? Too cool.
I like the color of the wooden platforms.
......Gorgeous, Gordon :o
Cheers - Gus
Gordon, Do you ever sleep ?? or do you build models 24 / 7 ;D
Cool! Look forward to following along on this little beastie ... have felt occasional urges to build this weird loco made from a Buffalo Pitts engine:
http://www.gearedsteam.com/other/images/ford_mill_co_willam.jpg
But it's safer just to watch you go to work on yours! ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
Whoa...this is awesome!
...really inspires me to drag my infinshed 1/48 build out and finish it (if I had time)....at least I can use your lead and approach to copy, when I finally do. ;D
M
Very cool project Gordon,
I've always loved the novel side of steam powered vehicles and the whole idea of keeping the boiler stoked and driving at the same time (unlike running on rails which takes away some of the issues of actually steering). Something about the cumbersome giant feel. I look forward to the rest of the project, as usual.
Cheers,
Dan
WOW
Thanks for sharing Gordon!
Love your builds!
Wish I could get excited about something..............
-Marty
Wow you start and finish projects. Before most of us think of things to do!!!!
Another beautiful model coming up.
Jerry
Thanks guys for your comments.
Chuck... the 0-4-0 is still moving forward, but very slowly.
Dallas... thanks for the photo. That little loco would make a great model.
Marc... is your 1:48 scale model a kit or are you scratch-building it using the drawings in the Gazette?
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
I frequent the smokstak forum and when a link to this thread about your model showed up I replied. I put it here just to keep the info flowing....
I know someone there wanted to become a member here and since they are not exactly "qualified" were a bit miffed.
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97971
Would you be so kind as to add a quick post on that thread mentioning that SmokeStak and http://www.BuffaloPitts.com are sources of info on Buffalo Pitts steam traction engines? Also, would you ask what size & year of Buffalo Pitts engine the model is based on? I guess the model maker is using some well-known set of plans, but those of us here on SmokeStak may not know this info (I know I don't) and we might be interested in such details. Thank you in advance!
Brian S.
Thanks Paul for the heads up and for posting the links both sites have been very helpful.The plans are in the May/June 1990 Narrow Gauge And Short Line Gazette by Al Armitage. The plans are for a 13 hp engine. The cylinder with a 7-3/4 inch bore and 10 inch stroke, Penberthy injectors, Moore independent steam pump, Woolf Patent reverse gear , and a 3-point friction clutch. The engine was built in 1900.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's a link to some tractor photos
http://www.pbase.com/rpdoody/antique_tractors_engines_etc&page=all
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's two photos of my progress.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7019%2F6444118129_21263a66be_b.jpg&hash=a11f4c3f39c63fc3d8546da57284c8d8db907ac2)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7024%2F6444117905_ef60377675_b.jpg&hash=ed357629393a815e1bcccf870cc8ea528b0dab66)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Good heavens. -- Russ
Impressive -- especially those wheels and gears!
Now that is proper scratch building ............. very,very impressive
Thought more than once about having a go at something like that , but always decided it was way too complicated for me .... looking at this definitely one of my better decisions ;D
Keep up the great work Gordon
Look at the model and think about what Gordon has done: He figured out how to break down construction into subassemblies. Then he patiently cut and assembled each part. Then he put everything together. It's really a testament to his problem solving skills and patience. He goes through that process again and again with each model. I doubt any of them poses much of a problem anymore. The man is a consummate professional. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on December 03, 2011, 12:39:17 AM
Look at the model and think about what Gordon has done: He figured out how to break down construction into subassemblies. Then he patiently cut and assembled each part. Then he put everything together. It's really a testament to his problem solving skills and patience. He goes through that process again and again with each model. I doubt any of them poses much of a problem anymore. The man is a consummate professional. -- Russ
Yeah, and apparently he didn't even get confused about the multi-layered innards of those complex tractor wheels ... all that freakin' detail adds extraordinary depth and realism ... and it makes it both more joyful and more sickening to see all this progress! He even managed to get all those cleats on the outside of the tires going in the right direction ... don't overlook how taxing a simple thing like that can be when trying to sort out a big, complicated assembly. No tongue-in-cheek there ... it takes some real concentration to separate the project into all those sub-assemblies and then build and assemble those properly. This is cool beans.
-- Dallas
Yup,
I think the summary you made Russ was pretty spot on. Well problem solved: well excecuted answer to the problem of have to actually build these various shapes. Its the one thing that I probably enjoy the most with your diary of these builds Gordon...not just the final result, but the clear display of the thought that has gone into fabricating the piece. I think what impresses me equally as much (and no disrespect to the guys on this forum that are using the advances of rapid prototyping, since things like these wheels would be an obvious choice of something perfect for that type of work), is the display of good ol' scratchbuilding craftsmanship. My hat is off...again.
Cheers,
Dan
Oh my Giddy Aunt ! :o
Absolutely bliddy brilliant, makes me a bit wobbly just thinking about it - Marvellous.
Thats why i like 1:16, each component is a model in and of itself!
So much fun for scratchbuilding!
-Marty
Incredible.
Gordon, your scrachbuilding is pure art.
I agree with everything that's been said. Always inspiring!
This is mind-bogglingly wonderful.
I would be remiss if I did not heap on the praise. Gordon, your decision making process while building must be clear, concise and quick.
Could you ever offer a step-by-step, not of how you built something, but the thinking process along the way?
Wonderful work.
John
Come back to see the latest comments ... see the photos again ... jaw drops again just like first time ...
Gordon and all -
Do not mean to "hijack" the thread, but your work has inspired me to get out a project I started almost ten years ago from the same set of plans, but in 1/24 scale. I came across it again while cleaning up and sorting out my new work area within the last few weeks, so snapped off a quick photo to share. It's not quite as far along as Gordon's, and I (back when I owned R & D Unique) tended to make parts and gears and such in brass and then cast them in white metal.
I no longer own the casting equipment, but still have the lathe and mill and so forth, so perhaps should get busy on again on the "little brother" to Gordon's....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages9.fotki.com%2Fv248%2Fphotos%2F7%2F734929%2F5151329%2FPC070002-vi.jpg&hash=f7cb073926c3e998cd30f9af1367c521578ac62b)
I hope you do get back to it!
Dave, What ever happened to R&D unique.? You had some cool stuff....i have a bunch of your Gas pumps & mise ;D detail parts.
I sold R & D Unique to my shop manager Tony in August of 2004, when I thought I was getting ready to retire! As it happened, I worked another few years and retired in May 2008.
Tony operated it successfully for another few years, and then he had some pretty complex reversals in his own life that meant he could no longer devote the amount of time a small business demands, so he closed it down maybe four(?) years ago. He still has all the tools and equipment and stuff, but my personal opinion is that it will never come back to life again. The hobby has changed a lot in the last few years, and not necessarily for the better, as our host has pointed out.
I founded the company in 1979 and had a good long run with it, so no regrets on my part, except that I had a bunch more things I wanted to do that never came to pass. I actually had completed a number of master parts for kits that never saw the light of day.
Thanks for asking. Nice to know we are still remembered.
Gordon, I had missed the last progress. Waouw. I share Dallas' point of view. It's a place to visit and visit again.
Quote from: Seattle Dave on December 07, 2011, 07:47:45 PM
Nice to know we are still remembered.
That's an understatement. R&D was possibly the first honest-to-goodness model car
aftermarket company and the quality was light-years ahead of anybody else at the time.
The quality of those early parts holds up 30-some years later. Thanks for your contributions, Dave.
(No wonder you're a Hall-of-Famer...... ;)...)
Gordon your work never fails to inspire me, I have in fact taken a page out of your book to build my wheels for the quadruped, I have used brass but I also turned up some plastic rims so that if the brass failed I would be following your lead by the book. and In fact I intend to do that on some future project.
it really is enjoyable following your builds.
Thanks Michael
Thanks guys for your comments. Dave nice start on the little brother. It well be interesting to see how you do the wire type wheels . John give me a minute or two to think about that.
The wheels on the prototypes have 36 round iron spokes. Two layers of 18 spokes, and are a lot more complicated than the 18 flat iron spokes two layers of 9 that I used on the model. After I saw that some Buffalo Pitts traction engine wheels had the flat iron spoke. This would be the direction I would follow. It is importance to have 6 spokes on the ring gear so the three connection points will line up evenly.
I only had Plastruct tubing up to 3" in diameter and for the rear wheels I needed a piece 4" in diameter. So instead of ordering and waiting for a piece of 4" Plastruct tubing I used a piece of 4" sewer pipe which is 4-3/16" O.D. In order to use the larger pipe I would need to add 1-1/2 scale inches to the front wheels king post. And move the ladder 1-1/2 scale inches forward. This pipe is not the 4"ABS type that would have a wall thickness of 1/4" and 4-1/2" O.D., but a 4" ---AM BRAND SEWER DRAIN PIPE AST--- With 3/32" wall thickness and 4-3/16" O.D. I only had a Short piece that I must of found on a job site. The 4" Plastruct tubing has a wall thickness of 5/64 this is closer to scale than the pipe I used. The bad thing about the pipe I used is that none of the plastic glues I have had any affect so all the styrene pieces are melted on with a number of applications of glue to get the parts to stick.
Plastruct Traditional ABS Round tubing (TB code) sizes start at 1-1/2 inches O.D. On quarter inch increments to 6 inches.
The models wheels are a little toy like or a little out of scale with the tire thickness and the thickness of the spokes a little over scale. On the spokes I used two layer of 030" styrene and a layer of channel making them around 2 scale" thick the prototype is probably less than 1/2" thick. Next time I may go with thinner styrene maybe two layers of 020" an a top layer of 020" or 010" this would be a little closer to what is on the prototype.
I will try to do a SBS on the wheels later.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's Four photos of my progress.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7021%2F6534306893_10f472e65e_b.jpg&hash=7ec3dd2388c215e3fab891de10f601bf56a7ede1)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7003%2F6534307147_463bbb38b8_b.jpg&hash=e38b71c1eeb2799b3c5138691eb2398b4a704a2e)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7009%2F6534307415_813120a5d9_b.jpg&hash=10e5008197098e5837bf256686f7e185c819c2fb)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7001%2F6534307707_390939d18d_b.jpg&hash=5e3b8fd2b172c9ef5884aa1db0fc46dcc3f206b3)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, only you would notice such minor imperfection. To my eye the model is most satisfactory. -- Russ
I've heard that black is a slimming color... :D Looking great, those spokes seem fine to me.
Great progress Gordon! I do have a plan for the spoked wheels.
Might be worth noting that Buffalo Pitts was a pretty prolific manufacturer of traction engines and threshers at the turn of the 1800s and pretty well into the 1900s. The one in the drawings was a 1900 vintage single cylinder 13 hp engine, and did have "wire" wheels with 3/4" diameter spokes. Within a couple of years, BP went to flat spokes on their entire range of engines from 8 to 20 hp, so your model is pretty close to a later version of the 13 hp engine, or you could always claim the owner installed later wheels!
Data on color is a little hard to come by, but there is a following of BP in the steam restoration world, and consensus has it that BP engines were basically black boilers with kelly green steam cylinder and piping and bright red wheels and pulleys.
Now you (or maybe we?) should build the water trailer and threshing machine that often followed behind these rigs! Would be quite a "train"!
Thanks guys for your comments. Dave I'm looking for info on a little water wagon.
Here's four more photos of my progress.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7160%2F6551439783_b16297df89_b.jpg&hash=4d6f371d7714ac92846d33b93511723113283a96)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7145%2F6551439639_19f1414798_b.jpg&hash=68cba048e61ed1dab9225e42929deae34cb9924f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7023%2F6551439463_e0ae73123e_b.jpg&hash=9cda8eb2a5ca2692ff52806529a651db08f36739)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7162%2F6551439303_54f17e2a1a_b.jpg&hash=1d803a96495010516675e37ba03b92c370ca0881)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Oh my! That is so very lovely ... all the clean, neat and detailed assembly shining thru. Really sharp. -- Dallas
The only thing "toy like" is that you can't light a fire in the firebox. I find this model to have so many surface features, shapes and angles it is wonderful to look at. Very nice, very inspiring.
John
What a lovely model! Really well done Gordon, and quite inspiring for me. I pulled all of my project out now, and have put it back on the table for work as soon as we get home from our Christmas holidays.
I'll also dig around for data on the water wagon and let you know in January.
Here's a great site.
http://antiquetractorsforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=155985
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Buffalo Pitts colors: Here is the front cover of the 1906 BP catalog. Hand tinted I'm sure, but a pretty good clue I suspect!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages44.fotki.com%2Fv220%2Fphotos%2F9%2F734929%2F10267876%2Fbuffalo20pitts-vi.jpg&hash=40c9299b19040ee497cb23e306d7985357a69502)
What amazes me is that there were so many different types of steam traction engines, in widespread use, yet nowadays you'd think they never existed. I never heard of such a thing until a few years ago. There was never any mention of them in our history books when I was in school. And I've never seen them in any old movies, nor in later movies set in that time period.
Just adding to the Huzzah's. A really fantastic job Gordon, somehow sublimely understated and yet so visually rich.
Excellent piece of modelling, it really does capture the flavour of the original ............... Brilliant.
Has anyone been able to see the image Dave posted (above)? It's been a couple of days and I keep getting an empty box and a dead link. -- Russ
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmedia.tripod.lycos.com%2Fpreview%2F2426780%2F1024x1024-1290899.jpg&hash=7a471fc3ab7cfcc88b4536c2921607932005e6ff)
Hmm ... I did see it yesterday or the day before ... failed to save it and don't see anything now.
There is an interesting site dedicated to Buffalo Pitts:
http://www.buffalopitts.com/index.html
And the photo above is linked from their advertising section.
Cheers,
Dallas
Strange thing on the picture. I have not moved it frorm its location in my Fotki album, and it continues to come through clear for me. Try this link directly to the album
http://public.fotki.com/rndunique/daves-car-pics/1900-buffalo-pitts-/
And a Merry Christmas to all!
It is preferable to upload a photo directly to the site, or simply provide a link as you did above, than to try to make the image appear here via a link. We occasionally have trouble with the latter on this forum and I don't know whether it's a bug in our software or hiccups in the original servers hosting the photo collections. Either way, a word to all of us: Directly upload the image or provide a written (live) link to it. -- Russ
Can individual users upload photos directly to this site? Just how that is done is not currently appearing obvious to me.
Or is that the "Additional Option" allowing a direct attachment of up to four items to a message? I'll try that.
Yes, you clearly figured it out. If you want more info, look at http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=3.0 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=3.0). It has more suggestions than you can shake a stick at. -- Russ
Here's the S-B-S. on how I build these wheels. For the front wheel I used 2-3/4" O.D. Plastruct tubing and for the rear wheel I used 4-3/16" O.D. pipe. For this S-B-S I used 2-3/4" O.D. 2-5/8" I.D. Plastruct tubing.
Rim Parts
A- (1) Plastruct Tube 2-3/4" O.D. 2-5/8" I.D. 5/8" long.
B- (1) Styrene .020" x 3/8" x 8-1/4" long. (center inside part A-)
C- (1) Styrene .040" x .100" x 8-1/2" long (center around out-side of part A- use on front traction engine wheels only)
Hub Parts
D- (2) Plastruct rings/flanges 11/16" O.D. 7/16" I.D. (1ea) styrene tube 7/16"-3/8"-5/16" x 3/8" long.
E- (1) styrene tube 1/4" x 5/8" long. (All styrene parts are from evergreen scale models) (Part E- goes over a 3/16" diameter axle)
Wheel Parts
F- (2) styrene disk .020" x 2-5/8" O.D. (1/4" center hole)-(add five nut-bolt casting GL # 128 to each disk)
G- (2) styrene disk .020" x 1" O.D. (1/4" center hole)
H- (10) styrene .020" x 3/16" x 7/8" long
I- (10) 3/16" styrene Channel 1-1/8" long (2 each N-B)
J- (10) styrene .030" x 3/16" x 3/8" long (2 each N-B)
Cut the two A- parts I have no way to make a true cut on the larger size tubing when I am cutting these small pieces. I will start buy sanding the end of the stock on the 10" disk sander. From this end I will draw two lines all the way around the piece. One at the finished size and one back 1/8" for a reference point. Cut the piece a little longer than the finished size and hand sand on a piece of sand paper on flat surface until the piece is true and is the right size. Part B- needs to have a very tight fit and the piece will not need to be glued at this point.
The hub part D- need to have the same length as the width of part B-. Part E- needs to be long enough to go through part D- and parts F- and G-.
The wheel have two sets of spokes one on each of each side of the hub. The spokes have three layer first layer is part F-. I cut this part and part G- with an X-ACTO circle cutter. Over cut part F- and sand down to get a very tight fit. Lay out the spokes and cut the 1/4" center hole. Start by drilling a 1/16" then draw 1/4" circle using a small circle template. Drill the hole out to 1/8" and finish it out with a round file. Add parts G- and H- to make up the second layer. Cut out between the spokes and add the third layer Part I-.
Assemble and glue together the three assemblies, and add part J-. The wheel is now ready to go over a 3/16" axle. This is so simple even a cave man could do it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7016%2F6591492979_344aea19d4_b.jpg&hash=f7370f0b34bb0534134b49948f508a0e33bd2dcd)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7155%2F6591492735_ec4071dc1d_b.jpg&hash=31cf90ed19a7243b144a21c129cf4df01171bd83)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Amazing work, a form of art in my opinion! Love the pictures you bring us of your process.
If you created this in kit form Gordon id definately buy one. Its just fantatstic.
Thanks guys for your comments.
Here's four photos of my progress.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7155%2F6595174819_ce4bea9584_b.jpg&hash=014bb99d35fbbc2f5620fab5b234966a136bcadf)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7163%2F6595174203_c31c82f56c_b.jpg&hash=e53f655f8df7f68fe96072dfaff343d2d4a60854)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7031%2F6595173687_535e0ff296_b.jpg&hash=9a7e4d86f3278dfa464fd0b009a8735411dba1a1)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7154%2F6595173153_80fb4681de_b.jpg&hash=29789b92f6d7e05a5c58efc7ce2553adfcc332c9)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Tremendous work Gordon, the painting is really brings out all the detail you added .
The piece now has captured the mass & weight of the original, nicely photographed as well!.
A caveman!!!! What is it with this caveman stuff? ;D
Nice work Gordon.
You have created a real gem, Gordon. Most satisfactory. -- Russ
When you know that this piece started as a lump of white styrene, it makes it you appreciate the craftsmanship that has gone into fabricating and assembling this engine. Just superb Gordon. A really cool rendition of those similar to "ye olde world" advertising...bit of a show room model. As usual, thanks for sharing the journey.
Cheers,
Dan
Sweet!
Will you be adding a canopy?
Excllent.
Dare we ask for a painting tutorial?
Regards, Hauk
Thanks guys for your comments.
Ray... its too late to add a canopy, it wasn't on the plan so I never gave it any thought. I do like these engines with a canopy on them. Some Buffalo Pitts engines have canopies and some don't. I am building umbrellas for the monorail locos maybe I will build one for this engine also.
Hauk... I painted the engine with Floquil Engine Black out of a rattle can. Then I did a very light dusting with a rust color hard pastel powder and fished up with Dullcote. The red on the wheels and the green is built up in layers of hard pastel powder lightly painted with a coat of Dullcote then repeat till you get good coverage. I think I have three coats on the water tank. The red I used was the only red I had at the time I may change the color later or I may leave it as is. On the wheels and pulleys. I did white pastel with Dullcote two or three times to lighten up the black. I used a regular pencil for the last layer.
Note... I use a razor blade and scrape the pastel stick to get the powder and apply with a soft brush.
Note... Floquil paint in the can is different than Floquil in the bottle.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Quote from: Scratchman on January 09, 2012, 10:31:58 PM
Hauk... I painted the engine with Floquil Engine Black out of a rattle can. Then I did a very light dusting with a rust color hard pastel powder and fished up with Dullcote. The red on the wheels and the green is built up in layers of hard pastel powder lightly painted with a coat of Dullcote then repeat till you get good coverage. I think I have three coats on the water tank. The red I used was the only red I had at the time I may change the color later or I may leave it as is. On the wheels and pulleys. I did white pastel with Dullcote two or three times to lighten up the black. I used a regular pencil for the last layer.
Interesting concept for painting. It sure looks beautiful, but how does it stand up to handling? Maybe not something you would try on an operating model?
A beautiful model and paint job and most off all somthing different.
Barney.
Hauk... on the handling it is probably good to have a good last coat of Dullcote. A good last coat would also be needed for pen washes, decals and for future dusting.
My next steam engine model, I will built and paint the black,red and green assemblies separately. This model was too complex to build the black and green assemblies separately.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Check out the logging engine on page 2
http://www.google.com/search?q=Burrell+traction+engine&hl=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=xwsVT-
ClLKOViQL0woHhDQ&ved=0CFEQsAQ&biw=1272&bih=859
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Lots of neat stuff on that page! And from there, I found these...
Here's another Fordson for you, Gordon:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.trainweb.org%2Fnzgearedlocomotives%2Fimages2%2Fdispatch-8.jpg&hash=f8a01561de893ba36640d313e4c74295c65d5871)
This is a great shot, of some amazing traction engines:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27712868@N05/2817299342 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/27712868@N05/2817299342)
Thanks Ray.
Here's three traction engine locomotives
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7021%2F6713124283_b581384063_b.jpg&hash=ed9c29592135de3510bc7b5f2add9130077eea07)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7145%2F6713124271_66fac132c6_b.jpg&hash=869a65d3454b02bbca9a4320057fec638a80922f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7006%2F6713124253_dbd380dbbc_o.jpg&hash=b787d79a8df1ba16c9c953b8fb4fe9847ec04089)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
I ran into this image today and thought of your work.
http://www.shorpy.com/Buffalo-Pitts-steam-tractor (http://www.shorpy.com/Buffalo-Pitts-steam-tractor)
Great work!
Doug
I like the engine in the last photo, from Australia. -- Russ
Very cool build!!!
Thanks Doug for posting the link to that image. Steam ships, steam tractors, and trains it Doesn't get much better than that.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
What did you use for all the rivets? How did you glue them?
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Rivets.... I've been using Grandt Line rivets and nut bolt castings for many years. I've used all three sizes of rivet. 032", 043" and 063". In my modeling I all so use a lot of hex nut bolt casting # 128. I love all of these castings, no clean-up and I've never seen a bad one. the rivets come in round and conical head . Google in Grandt Line go to there site click on Augmentables. for all of there hardware.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Tim, most of the time I will cut off the heads flush and melt the casting in place with liquid plastic cement. If the surface that I'm adding the casting to is styrene then you will get a good easy two way melt. If the surface is wood you need to apply more coats of cement to make sure the casting will stick. Sometimes when adding a rivet to a wood surface I will drill a hole but, I will still use the liquid plastic cement. A super thin AC glue will also do the job on the wood surfaces.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Thanks!