I needed to try the new AK Interactive chipping fluids that I received , so I did some quickie tests last night.....here are some snappies of the experiments Mind you, these are all just to see how the product works, different ways of applying it and some quick post chipping work to see what the next steps might be. ...I had no specific "final" result in mind.
I wanted to try some different approaches to layereing the resists and colors.
CHIP TEST 1:
1. Mr Surfacer Primer
2. Tamiya base color (dark rust tone mix)
3. Seal w/ Modelmaster "Lusterless Flat"
4. Sponge with Life-Color Rust tone.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test1a.jpg&hash=cb58f2558c343372da34d06f5efffffe6723ec02)
5. Apply 1-coat of Treseme hairspray from a can.
6. Apply Tamiya CM-ish and color coat.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test1b.jpg&hash=729d373529274f4d2bd7d0429915c33287a18d7e)
7. Chip with water after 30-min drying
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test1c.jpg&hash=4a81feb0e987cda233df41e070799e4811fe326d)
8. Apply AK Heavy Chipping solution (dried with hairdryer)
9. Apply Tamiya color and fading coats.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test1d.jpg&hash=16ebeaea6d1703f226655199ab3cf125c637f865)
10. Chip with stiff brushes.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test1e.jpg&hash=3cebce897ae91cd91ca5ea8729746e715da35fb3)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test1f.jpg&hash=474fe42cbce4977f8b9b6b574353499ee24d2c76)
CHIP TEST 2:
1. Mr Surfacer Primer
2. Tamiya base color (dark rust tone mix)
3. Seal w/ Modelmaster "Lusterless Flat"
4. Sponge with Life-Color Rust tone.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test2a.jpg&hash=fdbc41d37c63b942cf153020576935feaf5e150f)
5. Apply 1-coat of AK light chipping solution
6. Apply Tamiya CM-sh and color coat.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test1b.jpg&hash=729d373529274f4d2bd7d0429915c33287a18d7e)
7. Chip with water after 30-min drying
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test2c.jpg&hash=0d89c9f0e0809e39a7dc76ab0720b739633872b9)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FChip_Test2d.jpg&hash=cfcaba43f04d902a7bbb99c616933d4e98bcaf57)
I did these samples pretty quickly and each was done to see how I could layer the resists to get that layered/discolored chipped look. The last photos of each step above are obviously just part of the process to the final results (which I will show later)....but at this point I thought I would post my observations re. the AK solutions. NOTE...this is obviously my first try with these, and my observations reflect that. Also..note I used these products over a matte base/clear...a satin base/clear would likely yield different results.
I was actually very pleased with the "Light Solution"...it comes off quite a bit easier and in a far more controllable manner than HS...this can be seen on the car roof sample in TEST-2...2where I was able to obtain both large area chipping, and directional chipping (front to back wear). I was not able to get the same control or ease of removal with the HS in TEST-1
Then I played around with one of my test parts a bit more. Only the right fender, right side of the cab and hood, and the rear of the cab have been done (well, in respect to the top of the hood and the left fender).
I added quick some oil fading and overpainting, some pigment and, oil pin washes, just to see what feel I could get, for the steps after the chipping. (sorry ro the wierd lighting...these were just a couple of quick pics outside.) BTW, scale on this piece is 1/35.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FAKCT_3a.jpg&hash=0e7e93d4133bbfdbc100731f3b8a2f54d8b5d050)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FAKCT_3c.jpg&hash=9a0a43e7f7a7320948030337abd1af11cbf414c5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FAKCT_3b.jpg&hash=1e62b934069ffdf67e73c2ee10b6f83f79ba9a0a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FAKCT_3d.jpg&hash=7110b1c07c8dcb0d1263e8a66555f7c1fb6873c8)
M
Marc, Didn't know that AK had chipping fluids? is this something new. The tests your doing are looking real good ;)
Thanks Craig.
They are a brand new product, just becoming available this month (2nd, and 3rd bottles from left in image below). AK states that they created these so as to have a standardized fluid, that people could use if they wanted to, that would be the same for whoever used it. This came about because of the various discussions on forums about people using hairspray, and having all sorts of issues, (despite following someone elses exact steps) because they used a different type/mfr of hairspray....AK figured that a standardized fluid (that is also odorless) would help modelers achieve the same or sim effects that somone else got using the fluids [of course skill and patience not withstanding ;) ]
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg40.imageshack.us%2Fimg40%2F774%2Fakproducts.jpg&hash=1e6bf1ef15e1f460d833d3ea11972b2619c0de9b)
I still have a good bit of experimneting/learning to do with these, but at this point, I like the "Worn Effects" (lighter chipping) better than the "Heavy Chipping" fluid, though I am sure once I get a grip on the 'heavy' I will be just as happy with it. The light shoots beautifully through the AB right from the jar...I shot it at 1.5 bar and it went in smooth and even and dried quickly. My IAWATA HP-C did not like the heavy as much...I upped the pressure to 2.5 bar, and it still came out thick and "specled", though when it dried, it dried nice and flat and smooth (Virgil, "Dr. Cranky", shot his at 30-40 lbs. psi, and it came out smoother.)
One very nice thing about both these fluid is that unlike HS, they dry completely matte...so if you go over an area that is suppused to be exposed matte rust, you don't notice it like you do with HS....it also does not darken the underlying color like can happen with HS.
Marc
Thanks for the nice write up. Looks promising! I need to get a hold of some of those, though I might miss the prom date memory trigger if I give up hairspray!
Hi Marc,
Thanks for the SBS & review (been missing them of late). At first I was thinking, why do we need this stuff in a jar, when there is the hairspray technique, but then the explaination of aiming for the standard effect, or predictable effect, does make sense. All hairspray isn't quite the same (well, not by much), but atleast a product like this will make it easier for those that want to know more that using this product will yield this particular result. Would be interesting to know how the different solutions vary (between the light and heavy chipping product)...is one just more diluted or what?
Good to see these experiments of yours entertaining the forum again.
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks guys. It's always fun for me to try new products and techniques. Glad my ramblings are of interest. It's about all I have time for and can these days.
Chuck; did Carlos send you the project forum link? Otherwise drop him a note, and also ask him about the products. They will ship to you from AK USA.
Dan; Yes, the "Heavy Chipping" fluid is thicker/less viscous than the lighter "Worn Effects", but like the lighter it dries down very smooth and flat. I did do an initial test and a comparative review, but before I post the results/my experience, I need some questions clarified from Mig Jimenez/AK, so I can give a fully informed response/explanation.
Marc -- Thanks for the detailed prelim's on these ... look quite promising. -- Dallas
Looks very good indeed! I have these fluids since awhile back and are right now doing some tests. Not sure it´s any different to hairspray but thicker it is for sure. Mig himself had a clinic at the show in Eindhoven but I didn´t see that much of it. Thanks for an excellent (as always) SBS.
Anders ;D
Marc - I appreciate your SBS tutorials in this thread and others. I am totally new at this type of weathering and I have some fundamental questions.
What is Mr. Surfacer Primer?
What is Tamiya base color (dark rust tone mix)? Is this your own mix of Tamiya colors?
What is CM-ish or CM-sh?
Thanks for your time and assistance.
Bill Martinsen
Hi Bill hope you are well.
Going to jump in hear to see if I can help (and return some favours I owe you)
This thread of Marc's will give you a lot of info
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=370.msg4315#msg4315
Although he using a different brand here than Tamiya the base colors are much the same , I use Tamiya Nato Black XF69, Hull Red XF9, Linoleum Deck Brown XF 79 and or Dark Green XF 61 - the mix ratios are for me not critical just depends on what your final idea for the finish is , in my case I like a darker base if machinery is still in use and a browner shade if abandoned.
Mr Surface Primer ............. its what says on the tin, you can (?) get in 3 grades ....... has the advantage of being very fine giving a a great coverage with a thin coat so as not to obscure details ( Marc might be rolling around the floor with me saying that) ....... just punch the name into a search engine for more details and stockists.
CM = colour modulation , I should pass on this as a "little knowledge is a dangerous thing" but a very crude explanation is that you paint different panels /areas of the model with lighter/ darker shades of the basic shade, it also includes element of directional/zonal lighting and then the use of thin colour glazes to tone down and bring together the whole thing.
Best just to ignore my explanation and have a look through this forum
http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/
Ok here is another new guys question. Could someone explain or give me a link to a page explaining how to use Abteilung Oils.
I love the effect that Marc has created here and would like to create it myself.
Very nice SBS on the new fluids Marc. I'm still playing with mine, got mixed results last time. Might have been from rushing it, to keep up ;D ;)
Rob
Pay no attention to Rob...hes just sandbagging. I,ve ssen his reults.
Wesley, what is it that you would like to know about using the oils? In general they are used in the same way stanard artist oils are used. The difference I find in the Abt502 oils is that the pigment seems a bit finer than your average artists oils, and even without the oil removing cardboard trick, they tend to dry with less sheen than your average artists oil...which is especially good for washes and such. Also, the colors right out of the tubeare mixed more towards modeling than the standard artists oils....regardles though I still like to mix them for my own vaiations and specific needs/effect. I do at times mix the 502 oils with regular artist oils as well...just depends. What I have found though...(and I can hear the groans about cost/size and other products just as good and cheaper, from the peanut gallery now),....is that tIMO the Abt502 Odorless turpentine works far better than any other turp or white spirit I have used/is on my bench (and I have 6 different ones both odorless and regular)...for creating washes, filter, thinning the oils and other effects. Yes it costs more for the little bottle than regular turps/white spirits, but you can do what I do......use the 502 for actual mixing and paint work....and use the regular stuff to wash the brushes and do clean-up. My small 75ml bottle has lasted me 2 years....and is still 1/3 full.
Thanks Marc
That does help. I'll try the turps you have mentioned.
You said in your one post that you did some oil fading. Could you explain how that is done?
Although I only have the rust tone 502 oils, I can tell you they are great to work with. I mix them with pigments and enamel paints with no problem. I'll be ordering some other colors soon. They are much finer than artist oils and are great for washes and filters.
Not sure what he meant by the oil fading, but it has to be what I do. The oil paints are different than using acrylics or enamels in that you can thin them a lot and the drying time is longer. They can be "faded" by using them as filters and applied in layers. Fading can also be used for highlights and shadows. As with rusting, I classify using oils under "effects" and not weathering since you are creating effects either with filters, fading and even color modulation.
We'll let Marc explain it better.....I just like doing it ;D
Rob
This photo was posted on FB by Michael Rinaldi, showing his application/use of the AK fluid for chipping wood for one of his armor projects.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fa1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash4%2F316230_262461347131890_206578392720186_769648_945713012_n.jpg&hash=9aca2513b77350db46b485d8236ad51c4eb5eb3f)
"Here I've made some old painted wood boards to add to the StuH. I pre-painted the bass wood strips with grey and green oils, then brushed on the AK chipping fluid, sprayed the white and removed it brushes and water just like with the hair spray technique. The stuff works great for these loose items. Super simple, took about 15 minutes total."
Did you do the oils as a solid color (sealing coat), or more as a stain?
"Just as a stain to discolor the base wood color. Brushed the chipping fluid on top, sprayed the white and chipped away."
Those that are on FB, can see his incredible modeling, on his page here:
http://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio (http://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio)
Yeah that Mike certainly does have the chipping to a science. I'm in awe of his work....the man is sick ;D
Phone am shots of chipping. 060 styrene (for scale purposes, model this goes with is 1/24)
...one. more.
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 03, 2012, 08:02:45 PM
Phone am shots of chipping. 060 styrene (for scale purposes, model this goes with is 1/24)
Superb results ... and, one might guess, another bit of the secret truck ... ;)
-- Dallas
Quote
Those that are on FB, can see his incredible modeling, on his page here:
http://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio (http://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio)
Wow, how could I miss this link!
This is some of the best painting I have ever seen.
And that Corsair in blue is quite similiar to the result I wanted for my engine!
Thanks for sharing.
Rinaldi is terrific. Your work looks to be in the same league. -- Russ
Incredible chipping, especially considering the small size! Those .060" square strips are really small.
Thanks guys. Yeah, I was pretty happy with the final result, was quite fiddly to do the piece without breaking any joints. Took about 4-5 hours to do the whole rack.
M
How did I miss this thread! :o
Great work!!
-
Glad to see you were able to build the rack from styrene. ;D
Wish I could have helped >:(, but the end result is very nice!
-Marty
That rack looks really good.
It seems impossible to make a more realistic rendition, Marc.
Marc,
would you mind a very short kinda SBS or at least an itemization of the things/steps you used/made, as your result on this ...
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 03, 2012, 08:02:45 PM
Phone am shots of chipping. 060 styrene (for scale purposes, model this goes with is 1/24)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1596.0;attach=9553;image)
... is just the finish I'd very much want for my HaWe trolley:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F01-06-hawe-triebfahrzeug%2F01-06-0006-hawe-triebfahrzeug-p1030371.jpg&hash=6910971f375374434f9a9facbe948f1da99fbdf6)
Cheers
Gerald,
Unfortunately I cannot, as this is part of a project for someone, who will publish the painting and weathering info later this year.
M
Marc,
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 09, 2012, 11:47:50 PM
Unfortunately I cannot, as this is part of a project for someone, who will publish the painting and weathering info later this year.
... ah, OK ... this is not so bad at the moment, as the HaWe trolley is a long term project anyway (as the most modelling projects ;)) ... so don't worry ... ;D
Cheers
Good afternoon guys, Marc terrific SBS and the results are great as well.
If I wanted to start experimenting with this type of finishing is there a thread here or elsewhere for the beginner? For me the terminology and the descriptions are too advanced at present. Want to learn to walk before I can run. Thanks Pat
Pat/Gerald;
There is a 9-page thread on chipping with hairspray, on the MIG forum here:
http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3293
Here is some info re. the AK fluids on the AK forum:
http://akinteractive.foroactivo.com/t604-ak-chipping-fluids
..and here
http://akinteractive.foroactivo.com/t557-chhipping-and-worn-effects-question
HTH,
Marc
It is really easy guys.
Just give it a try.
Once you do it you will discover how it works and how to manipulate it.
I do it very differently but whatever works!
WHAT HAVE YOU GOT TO LOOSE?
-marty
Just a quickie in progress.... :)
Tease!
From the small glimpses we've seen here, it's obvious this is going to be a real masterpiece!
Wow Marc, your work never ceases to amaze me!
I took this photo yesterday. The chipping looks similar to what you are doing. Do you freestyle or are you going off of reference?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg337.imageshack.us%2Fimg337%2F3092%2Fimg1515ka.jpg&hash=2985b97146bf63df6866de2b029b2cdc5ec8da6a)
-
Thanks guys. Figured I better show something so that you dont think I'm not doing anything. :)
Tim;
I do both, The freestyle hang-ten...and photo reference. Most of the time I will search the web for images of relevant items with the weathered look I am after, then I will print them out and use them at the bench for referenece while working. I generally do not do an exact copy of a finish from a specific photo, but rather choose a combination from several images that have a sim look to eachother, and to what I want, and then combine/pick-and-choose the parts/aspects I need or feel will work best for the build.....and that will in the viewers mind hopefully create a plausible and rational/reasoned look.
Stunning stuff Marc.
Could you tell what you used for the base rust colours. It looks so real.
Marc --
What are the "weapons of destruction" (tools, implements) that you're using for the chipping, scraping, etc?
Thanks!
Dallas
Thanks guys.
Wesley;
The base/rust tones is a random mix of Tamiya "Red Brown", "Brown" and some Black and or Yelllow. I just sort of mix it till I feel it's the color/shade I want. I do tend to do a slight amount of panel shading after the base coat is down, by adding black to the base coat color, and then applying it around recesses/panel lines/under-cuts etc.
In the case of the image; after the chipping I went in and did what I call a "Mapping Wash"....I used diluted Vallejo/Panzer Aces "Leather Belt", which was thinned by eye with distilled water to various intensities/opaqueness, and then randomly applied/washed into the exposed rust areas with a "0" brush. The number and opacity of applications varied from area to area. I then used the same color in almost full opacity and ran it along some of the the edges and bend in the bed.
Dallas;
The attached image shows what I use to do my chipping (used them all for the chipping in the image).
Left to Right:
T-Pin
Sharpened and/or Damp Toothpick
Two brushes hard/crusted with Mr. Surfacer
Various cut down brushes of different stiffness, shape and size.
Dallas, will leave you to mention the "missing bit" ;D its age you know.
Must have been attached in some new secret, stealth way ... must decode! Some tricky sequence of left-click, right-click, double-click, etc. This is gonna be a challenge. -- Dallas
Oh, bite me....its attached now :P ;D ;D
How are you feeling "Little Andi" ... the artist , after looking at those brushes ;D
Quote from: gfadvance on March 28, 2012, 03:02:24 AM
How are you feeling "Little Andi" ... the artist , after looking at those brushes ;D
Are thoust taking the pisseth? .......... I know; you're just getting your own back re' my yet as unconfirmed application - I thought you might be joking when you said you had "wrote to teh committee".
And as for those brushes .......... Oi Vey already! .......... Dear Mother of God I thought me bum was going to drop off!!!!
Tis' true that only a master craftsman could achieve the results he does with what amounts to a selection of manky sticks. With watching what Marc achievs and then there's that Fitchennfoo fella and his arty mates .............. never have I felt more like some dinosaur ......... and such a bliddy talentless one at that.
I was thinking about posting the CA-Bedford here but I don't respond well to just bringing up the rear - oo-er missus!
Hugs.
Gordon;
Besmirching my finely crafted brushes are you!? ;D
You should see the lovely Sable brushes I use to apply liquid solvent!
Andi;
"manky sticks"...thats wonderful. Will definitely have to remeber that. ;D ;D
...now get off yer bum, and post the Bedford!
Quote from: mad gerald on March 09, 2012, 10:37:36 PM
Marc,
would you mind a very short kinda SBS or at least an itemization of the things/steps you used/made, as your result on this ...
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 03, 2012, 08:02:45 PM
Phone am shots of chipping. 060 styrene (for scale purposes, model this goes with is 1/24)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1596.0;attach=9553;image)
... is just the finish I'd very much want for my HaWe trolley:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F01-06-hawe-triebfahrzeug%2F01-06-0006-hawe-triebfahrzeug-p1030371.jpg&hash=6910971f375374434f9a9facbe948f1da99fbdf6)
Quote from: marc_reusser on March 09, 2012, 11:47:50 PM
... Unfortunately I cannot, as this is part of a project for someone, who will publish the painting and weathering info later this year ...
Marc,
... would this piece of weathering/technique eventually be part of the content in the new weathering mag, you announced here?http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1862.0 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1862.0)
Cheers
Gerald,
No, the rack is for a possible upcoming book on modeling civilian vehicles. Though, my sources do indicate that one of the future AK mags will be dedicated to "Chipping".
M
A tenuous addition to the thread, but have not long ago received said "Chipping" edition. Very VERY good: a good thick magazine for ones pennies - lots of differing techniques and effects, actually an all round quality product.
I am interested to see if it's possible to maintain this standard of content, or whether as the "umbrella" terms for the various contexts of weathering wane will they give way to specific examples of excellence?? [clue is in the sentence].
Also, I'm sure I'm not alone in feeling the "dolly bird" is a bit unnecessary and adolescent? - I certainly wouldn't miss her [although I'm sure she's a lovely girl] it just makes me feel a bit uncomfortable really ... I know - "old fart" alert!!
... I do believe my first subscription squared me up for four issues? - It might be nice if it was announced in good time how one continues with ones subscription, and the options therein!
Love to all ................
Quote from: Andi Little on January 26, 2013, 05:31:01 AM
A tenuous addition to the thread, but have not long ago received said "Chipping" edition. Very VERY good: a good thick magazine for ones pennies - lots of differing techniques and effects, actually an all round quality product.
I am interested to see if it's possible to maintain this standard of content, or whether as the "umbrella" terms for the various contexts of weathering wane will they give way to specific examples of excellence?? [clue is in the sentence].
Also, I'm sure I'm not alone in feeling the "dolly bird" is a bit unnecessary and adolescent? - I certainly wouldn't miss her [although I'm sure she's a lovely girl] it just makes me feel a bit uncomfortable really ... I know - "old fart" alert!!
... I do believe my first subscription squared me up for four issues? - It might be nice if it was announced in good time how one continues with ones subscription, and the options therein!
Love to all ................
I think that this edition is the most useful so far , with a number of non military examples being of particular interest .
I'm inclined to agree about the need for a dolly bird holding a large weapon . I realise that Russ would disagree , but as he doesn't actually do any modelling any more , the rest of the content is really of only academic interest to him !
Nick
You are so right, Nick. I have evolved to a higher plane. The only models I pursue now are of the 18 to 25 year old beautiful female variety and, when I attain one, I find myself in Nirvana.
As for the pause in my building, it really started last July with the slipped disk in my back. I was unable to sit on a chair for longer than a few minutes. Attacks by a couple of influenza viruses and publishing obligations further muddled my free time. Then, on Christmas, young Scarlett brought home the gift that keeps on giving: That killer flu the world now knows as an epidemic. We still have it (you get it for a couple of weeks, it subsides, you think you're nearly over it, and then it clobbers you even worse the second time).
Hence no creative output for months, neither modeling nor music. And it's been rather inconvenient for producing the upcoming Logging Annual.
Mustn't judge a publisher/musician/modeler/philanderer until you chase bikini girls in his shoes (as it were).
Russ
hey russ sorry to hear that you have the blues.
the approaching spring in the northern hemisphere should help you fight your virus.just remember that in the future these things are going to get worse so we all should try and boost our immune system.
your back i feel that you dont get much exercise bad for backs.the worst thing is to just lie around and not do much.you need to find a exercise that you like and try and strengthen your lower back musles.it will hurt at first but will work[try morning walking] also this is good at fighting viruses.
kind regards doctor kim
Quote from: 1-32 on January 27, 2013, 12:48:21 AM
your back i feel that you dont get much exercise bad for backs.the worst thing is to just lie around and not do much.you need to find a exercise that you like and try and strengthen your lower back musles.it will hurt at first but will work[try morning walking] also this is good at fighting viruses.
kind regards doctor kim
Exercise ? I think that is where the 18 to 25 year olds come into play . Problem is , the poor dear can hardly raise a smile at the moment !
Russ ,
Hope you are back to full rude health ( a West Country saying ! ) as soon as possible ,
Nick
Russ, best wishes for a speedy recovery!
Seems to be a pretty rough flu season this year, and now there's a nasty stomach bug starting to make the rounds (Sydney norovirus).
Thanks for the good wishes, guys, but I'm not an invalid; I just had a rough year. I lost about two months of workouts because of the disk but then got back in shape and stayed that way until the recent flu clobbered us. I've been running, bicycling, or walking since my early teens and I do a bunch of upper body exercises, too. I'm not a fat, sedentary publisher like some of my colleagues.
I was just trying to explain why my creative output has been so limited. For me, nothing is more frustrating than failing to crank out my quota of books, models, and music.
Russ
Quote from: shropshire lad on January 26, 2013, 11:37:03 AM
Quote from: Andi Little on January 26, 2013, 05:31:01 AM
A tenuous addition to the thread, but have not long ago received said "Chipping" edition. Very VERY good: a good thick magazine for ones pennies - lots of differing techniques and effects, actually an all round quality product.
I am interested to see if it's possible to maintain this standard of content, or whether as the "umbrella" terms for the various contexts of weathering wane will they give way to specific examples of excellence?? [clue is in the sentence].
Also, I'm sure I'm not alone in feeling the "dolly bird" is a bit unnecessary and adolescent? - I certainly wouldn't miss her [although I'm sure she's a lovely girl] it just makes me feel a bit uncomfortable really ... I know - "old fart" alert!!
... I do believe my first subscription squared me up for four issues? - It might be nice if it was announced in good time how one continues with ones subscription, and the options therein!
Love to all ................
I think that this edition is the most useful so far , with a number of non military examples being of particular interest .
I'm inclined to agree about the need for a dolly bird holding a large weapon . I realise that Russ would disagree , but as he doesn't actually do any modelling any more , the rest of the content is really of only academic interest to him !
Nick
I agree with both of you. This isue is very nice,as it offers a wide range of examples and comparisons of the techniques on a variety of subject. Plust it also features Chuck ;D.
I dont't get the girl thing...it reminds me of a bunch of Bevis & Butt-Head retards sitting at their bench snickering. And like said, I am sure she is probably an okay young lady...she's definitely not someone I would ever be interested in speaking with or buying a drink....so it adds absolutely nothing to the mag for me.
Russ, I already gave you my best wishes last time, fishing for more by repeating your illness, is a bit over-the-top. ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 28, 2013, 04:02:37 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on January 26, 2013, 11:37:03 AM
Quote from: Andi Little on January 26, 2013, 05:31:01 AM
A tenuous addition to the thread, but have not long ago received said "Chipping" edition. Very VERY good: a good thick magazine for ones pennies - lots of differing techniques and effects, actually an all round quality product.
I am interested to see if it's possible to maintain this standard of content, or whether as the "umbrella" terms for the various contexts of weathering wane will they give way to specific examples of excellence?? [clue is in the sentence].
Also, I'm sure I'm not alone in feeling the "dolly bird" is a bit unnecessary and adolescent? - I certainly wouldn't miss her [although I'm sure she's a lovely girl] it just makes me feel a bit uncomfortable really ... I know - "old fart" alert!!
... I do believe my first subscription squared me up for four issues? - It might be nice if it was announced in good time how one continues with ones subscription, and the options therein!
Love to all ................
I think that this edition is the most useful so far , with a number of non military examples being of particular interest .
I'm inclined to agree about the need for a dolly bird holding a large weapon . I realise that Russ would disagree , but as he doesn't actually do any modelling any more , the rest of the content is really of only academic interest to him !
Nick
Russ, I already gave you my best wishes last time, fishing for more by repeating your illness, is a bit over-the-top. ;D
You might have given Russ your best wishes , but the rest of us haven't and he was feeling a bit down and wanted more sympathy .
Here's something to cheer you up , Uncle Russy . I've nearly finished that article you asked for . Well , it is actually the notes for my clinic in Oz but with a bit of chopping and changing it'll do for you as well . All I need to do is finish the building that it about .
Nick
Thanks, Nick. Wow! That is so exciting that, for the first time in my life I was able to get out of my wheelchair. I can walk! I can walk! -- ssuR