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Here's the second part of my truck-loco combination build.

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Along with the photo of the truck I am using three sets of plans from the Gazette to help with my freelance model.

1- 1917 Kleiber 3 1/2-Ton Truck (May/June 1992)

2- 1920 White 5-Ton Model 45 Truck (July /August1991)

3- 1917 White Model TAD 3-Ton Chain-Drive Truck (September/October1991)  

Here's what I have so far.

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Gordon Birrell  

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

I don't understand how you can build so many models so well. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on September 08, 2011, 12:59:43 AM
I don't understand how you can build so many models so well. -- Russ

I agree 100%.  Just amazing.

Jerry

Russ!
I have seen his work bench! And it's not tiny elves!  ;D
He is prolific! He's a machine! He's super human, :o :o :o
  and he's a great guy too!
MPH

Gil, while I haven't been to Gordon's house, I've spoken to him at length several times. You are completely correct: He is a great guy. -- Russ

Were both lucky to know him! Thanks I would have never met him with out you! I owe ya one, come up to the promised land and I will buy you a beer!
MPH
43 degress 40 minuets 25 seconds north
116 degress 16 minuets 55 seconds west

Now you're talking! 
Gordon, this project is so kool I can hardly maintain myself.
So far it's eye-popping - can't wait for the next batch of pix....

Whats the tank in back for; fuel?
I thought all those '20's vehicles were gravity fed fuel systems.............
-Marty

Very nice!  What scale?  I suspect larger that 1:48
Where can I get drawings or plans for a sheep herder wagon?

Quote from: Brent on September 22, 2011, 01:00:37 PM
Very nice!  What scale?  I suspect larger that 1:48
Where can I get drawings or plans for a sheep herder wagon?

Hi, what country are you referring too with this waggon ?

Reason I ask, is that the American version, will be different to an English type of vehicle.

Here' a model of an English version, have a look at this, about half way down there is a pic of said item. If this is what you require, then possibly try and contact the builder.

http://www.scalemodelhorsedrawnvehicle.co.uk/(Model%20Gallery).htm


Or, if it's an American version, you can have a look here, go for the chuck waggon, it might be what you want.

http://www.wildhorsebooks.com/thompson.htm

Here's another link that might be of interest.

http://www.hansenwheel.com/products/custom_wagons/sheepwagons.html

regards  greenie

In Nevada I've seen sheep wagons similar to the wagons from Hansen (last link), fitted with auto wheels and axles, and a trailer hitch, for towing by pickup truck.

Thanks guys for your comments and input. Brent the model is 1:16 scale and here is a site with wagon plans.http://www.wildhorsebooks.com/collins.htm  The September/October 1982 Gazette has plan for a 1915 Ford Model T "sheepherder" Wagon.

Here's four photos of my progress on the truck.

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Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Excellent progress Gordon. What type of glue(s) do you like for bonding styrene to styrene?

 Chuck - Forgive me for butting in on "what type of glue for styrene" But its a question I have been asked many times over the past month how do I achive a clean and neat finish to my Styrene welds. Once having a problem many years ago with different types of styrene glues the problem being when using very thin styrene strips and when bending them round tight corners or curves when I applied the glue it kept for wanting a better word "overheating" and snapping the fine styrene resulting in bin jobs for the model. Why I asked the only thing I changed was the make of Styrene Glue.At the time I worked opposite a Forensic Laboratory and ask one of the Chemical men why do I have these problems. The answer he gave was the styrene type of weld I was using was very aggressive with a low rate of capillary action so it tending to stay in a small area and overheat the weld and blow a hole in the thin styrene -just like welding metal - if I used a high capillary less aggressive styrene weld the problem would be solved - I have always used SLATERS MEK-PAK I find it gives a strong weld has a high capillary rate and is not aggressive it only requires a small amount applied with a fine brush the results are clean leaving no traces of solvent weld - I have tried many other makes but always end up in a bit of a mess -areas around the weld look a bit rough and overheating of thin styrene. So its back to the saying "if it works leave it alone" sorry to bore you all with what should be a short answer -SLATERS MEK-PAK-
Barney

Thanks Barney! That is good info. I will see if I can get a hold of that brand.

Here you go Chuck

https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/mekpak.php#Section1

Slater's MEK-PAK is my glue of choice for styrene... been using it for about twenty years now. It's less agressive than regular MEK which you can still find at real hardware and paint stores and can use in a pinch if necessary, though you have to be very careful with the standard MEK as it is very agressive, apart for being a particularly nasty carcinogen... Use with lots of ventilation.

Paul

Thanks guys for the information on the cement. Barney I really like your Odd Bods. Chuck I've been using Tester Plastic Cement forever. Over the last year or so I've been using some Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. The Tamiya is very thin, dries very fast and is not as aggressive as the Testers. For larger gluing surfaces I still use the Testers. My military modelers friends really like this Tamiya cement. My guess is the MEK-PAK and the Tamiya extra thin cement are similar. Here's a link to a review on the Tamiya cement. 
 
  http://drwonga.wordpress.com/2010/10/20/tamiya-ultra-thin-cement-review/

Marty the tank on the back of the truck looks like a gas tank to me. I have the gas tank under the seat on the model. I don't know if I will add the one on the back of the truck or not.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Thanks very much for the info! I have had mixed results with the Testors, so maybe I will try something new.

I love the Tamiya ! It's super thin, dries fast and has very little smell, plus the square bottle is very hard to knock over! Believe me I have tried.   ::)
MPH

I have to add the two styrene solvent glues that have given satisfactory results for me to the discussion. Tenax 7 and the Plastruct Bondene are thin solvent that give good capillary action and resist the "burning" action Barney talked about. I still rely on the Testors Plastic Cement however for initial bonding. (anyone remember the days of the old Duco cement?)
   All that being said, and to return to Gordon's truck: Fabulous work!

Thanks Guys for your comments. Here's four photos of my progress on the truck.

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The wheels were very simple and I will post a SBS.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Now if it were N scale and fully operational I might be more impressed; but it's not bad. -- Russ

Keep building, Gordon......(I just bought NBW Stock)

Beautiful work, as always.  Watching you put together bits & pieces
until they resemble something is truly inspirational. Thanks for posting.

Beautiful work as usual.

Thanks for sharing with us another wonderful build.

Jerry

If you keep this up, you're gonna convince everyone to switch to 1:16 scale ... and we're all gonna need bigger workbenches, bigger closets, bigger shelves and bigger basements ... so, cut it out!  :-X

Meanwhile ... WOW!  Outstanding, beautiful & inspiring assembly.  -- Dallas

Absolutely beautiful work as always.

Thanks also for the side discussion on glue. I have been very happy with the Plastruct Bondene, except when I have to glue  .005 styrene....for some reason I never considered trying a different solvent for this thickness....DUH!........but now I wil definitely go get some. Will make small surface details and strapping much easier and more fun to do.

M

Gordon,
That is just simply beautiful work.
Makes me want to take all my stuff out and throw rocks
at it ;) :D ;D
Rick

Okay, I relent. Gordon, this model is better than average. -- ssuR

Thanks guys for your comments. Here's two photos of my progress.

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Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Marvelous, as usual!

Outstanding workmanship!  Can you tell us where you found the detailed drawings you used?

Thanks guys for your comments. Curb, along with the photo of the truck I am using three sets of plans from the Gazette to help with my freelance model.

1- 1917 Kleiber 3 1/2-Ton Truck (May/June 1992)

2- 1920 White 5-Ton Model 45 Truck (July /August1991)

3- 1917 White Model TAD 3-Ton Chain-Drive Truck (September/October1991) 

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Here's four photos of my progress.

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Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Its great work and as always there's lots to learn as well as admire.

Optional load

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Thanks Gordon that's  a great photo. Here's a 1:48 scale 1919 Packard  truck I built many years ago. The plans for both the truck and donkey engine are from old Kemtron plan books.

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Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

A true master of the white plastic stuff ! plus a nice scale to work in to show the detail - small prototypes large scale its got to be the way to go !
keep the photos coming I have learnt a lot - inspiration at its best.
Barney

Man that is some fantastic scratch building. Not sure if it was mentioned in the posts, was too busy drooling over the pics, but what did you use for the rivets and NBW ?? It's almost a shame to have to paint this.

Rob

Thanks Rob and welcome to the forum. I use Grandtline castings for the rivets and the NBW's on all of my projects.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Thanks for the info Gordon. Next order I put in will be for various size rivets and will try to get some GL.

Rob

Rob for some information on the grandtline rivets look at my fourth post on this thread.

http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1527.0

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Gordon, I keep coming back to this, several times daily, and can't get over you scratch building skills. I love looking at models that have a lot of white styrene in them because you can see the work that went into the model and also see what what used to make what. Those rivets and NBW's look fantastic on the naked styrene. I don 't know if I am up to something like this but am mentally planning an easier scratch project, a crane, and this is the motivation I need to actually get off my butt and do it. I'll be stocking up on supplies and taking apart old PC's and vcr's for usable parts.
keep up the fantastic work.

Rob

Step-by-Step for the wheels

The wheel are a typical wooden wagon wheel with a set of metal rings that holds the hard rubber tire to the wood rim. The model wheels are not prototypical. Building the wheels like the model wheelwright modelers do in this small scale is beyond my modeling skills. The problem with the model wheel is not having the right shape on the spokes and cutting part B. in half leaving the small gap between the spokes.   

Large wheel (parts for one wheel)(axle size 7/32" brass tubing).

A. (1) PVC conduit 2-7/8" OD 2-7/16" ID cut 5/8" long.
B. (2) 2-1/2 inch  Plastruct tube # TB-250 5/16" minus 010" long. (with a thin saw blade slit from side to side. Add a spacer till parts B. Fits tight inside part A. remove part B. and glue on spacer)
C. (1) styrene disk 020" x 2-7/8" diameter with a 1/4" center hole. (draw lines for the twelve spokes see photo.) 
D. (2) Ring/flanges Plastruct # RI-18  13/16 OD x 1/8" thick.
E. (24) styrene 125" x 156" cut to length
F. (2) styrene disk 020" x 7/8" diameter. with 1/4" center hole.
G. (2) styrene ring 020" x 2-7/16" ID 2-3/4" OD
(18) Rivets Grandtline # 156 NBW Grandtline #23
H. Hub parts H.1 (1) 1/4" OD brass tube 7/8" long H.2 (1 each) 5/16" OD styrene tube (1) 3/8" long (1) 1/8" long. H.3 hex nut and styrene hole punch



Small wheel (parts for one wheel)(axle size 3/16" brass tubing).

A. (1) 2 inch PVC pipe 2-3/8" OD 2" ID cut 1/2" long.
B. (2) 2 inch Plastruct tube # TB-200 1/4" minus 010" long (with a thin saw blade slit from side to side. Add a spacer till parts B fits tight inside part A.)
C. (1) styrene disk 020" x 2" diameter with a  7/32" center hole. (draw lines for twelve spokes on one side only this side will be the front side.  see photo.)
D. (2) Ring/flanges Plastruct # RI-16 3/4" OD x 100" thick
E. (24) styrene 100" x 125" cut to length. (refer to step 1-)
F. (2) styrene disk 020" x 13/16" diameter. with 7/32" center hole.
G. (2) styrene ring 020" x 2" ID 2-1/4" OD
(18) rivets Grandtline # 156 (18) NBW Grandtline # 23
H. Hub parts H.1 7/32" OD brass tube 7/8" long H.2 (1 each) 9/32" OD styrene tube (1) 3/8" long (1) 1/8" long H.3 hex nut and styrene hole punches

Steps for the wheels

1- Cut and clean up all parts. Cut center holes in parts C.and F. (Over-cut the E. parts 1/32). 2- Add parts B. and C. to the center of part A. (do not glue).  3- Sand both ends till both A. and B. parts are flush. 4- With the assembly laying on it's back glue on part D to the front of part C. 5- Cut Parts E. to the correct length and glue on to the front of part C. (Be careful not to glue parts A.,B., and C. together). 6- Remove part C and cut out between the spokes. 7- Reassemble and turn the wheel with the back up. 8- Add parts D. and E. to the back of part C. 9- Glue the assemblies together and glue on part G. 10- The center holes on part F. need to line up with the center hole in part C. to do so place wheel on it's back on a flat surface. Add part H1 into the center hole of part C. and down onto the flat surface. Now add part F over the  part H.1 and glue to part D. 11- Turn over wheel and add the other part F. 12- Remove part H.1 from the wheel and glue on the larger H.2 part at one end.  13- From the front add part H.1 to the center of the wheel and add the smaller part H.2. 14- push the H.2 parts up tight against the F. parts and do a good glue joint. 15- Add the rivets and NBW casting to part F. and G. 16- end of the hub I used a hex nut along wit some styrene hole punches.

Note 1. I used a circle cutter to cut the disks and the rings and had to do very little clean up.

Note 2. when cutting circles start with a small center hole and cut on both sides.

Note 3. I use my 8 inch chop saw to cut the tubing and pipe. ( you need to be very careful doing this).

Steps for fenders

On the one photo you can see the device for holding the top and bottom of the fender at the right profile while gluing the top to the bottom. This device keep the fender from twisting while the two parts are glued together.

1.- cut the top and bottom out of 030 styrene  the bottom 1" wide and the top 3/4" wide  2- using a scale drawing determine the length and diameter. Cut the pieces to the correct length. 3-  I cut a 2-7/8" diameter pipe 3/4" long with a styrene retainer at both ends for the fender 4- Before gluing up the fender, take the two pieces and wrap around a section of 2" pipe. use rubber bands to hold in place set in a glass bowl and cover with boiling water. 5- Now you are ready to add the parts to the device and glue together.       



       
 
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Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Here's four photos of my progress.

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Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Gordon, thanks for the great sbs. This will come in very handy when I have the nerve to tackle these types of wheels. Got to take baby steps first.

Rob

Looks fantastic...but I still think, or liked it better before the paint went on. ;D something about white styrene and misc colored bits and bobs.

Can't wait to see what you build next.

Rob

Way to go, Gordon. Another masterpiece. -- Russ

Great information and another stunning model!
You are a gentleman and a scholar!

BTW; Was really cool seeing the "collection" in the Annual.
-Marty

Thanks guys for your comments. Marty it was great to see the two shovels together in the same book.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Yes Gordon was really neat!
Would have been even neater to see them side by side!
-Marty