I have posted this elswhere before, but thought I would post it here also.
Making home made corrugated. It's in German, but the photos are self explanitory. This might be of particular interest to those modeling in the larger scales where corrugated material is not readily available.
http://modellversium.de/tipps/artikel.php?id=56
Marc
Here is my adaptation of one of these techniques as used for my 1/35 OOB model.
I needed some pieces of corrugated metal for clutter on the base.
This is for 1/35, so dimensions/sizes will need to be adapted for other scales. for the "metal" I am utilizing cut pieces of the instruction sheet, that heve benn thoroughly brushed/soaked on both sides with dilluted Liquitex "Matte Medium". My thought being that the matte mediun will act as both a stiffener, and reduce the surface fuzz of the paper.
Two form halves were made using .050 styrene sheet. Onto which were glued .080" rods spaced at .060". This gives me pretty much a a prototypical 2-1/2" center to center corrugation. The spaced between the rods were filled using .060 x .040 styrene strips. This would strengthen and stabilize the round rods, and give me a positive "depth limit" stop on the corrugation.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_CorrForm.jpg&hash=f1c5b9c38a4265be6421940182779bdd3aade4ac)
The original intent was to merely sandwich the soaked piece of paper between the two forms....but this proved to be problematic due to the way the paper develeps tension as it has to lay into the lower form grooves as the upper form is pressed into place. So I layed one edge of the soaked paper square on to, and lightly laid it across the form. I then began at one side and pressed individual .080" styrene rods into the grooves. Once these were all in place I weighted them down. [At this point I could have remover the rods, and just pressed the other form half in their place....but I decided this way the air would circulate better for the paper to dry, and I could do another piece in the other half of the form.]
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2Fa1.jpg&hash=2412395501c3671c3f2f65097488fe9e0c9f0116)
This photo shows the paper dry in the form with the rods removed.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_CorrDryInForm.jpg&hash=22f3497a844dbce1bc8cf05893275e51f1ee7c55)
This image shows the dried corrugated paper removed from the form, and ready for paint with airbrush, and weathering.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser_Military%2FMR_38tOOB%2FMR_38tOOB_CorrPaper.jpg&hash=fab0f6279cb098940d93216af33cf752794d86e7)
This same template and method is easily used on thin alum., brass, and copper for real metal roofing.
Marc
Just an FYI. Copy the url and paste it into the Google search box. When the result comes up click on TRANSLATE. It isn't a perfect translation but it you'll get the gist of it.
Another way to make corrugated paper or metal is to use the Fiscars crimper. I have used this to make corrugations in 1/24th scale. it works well on brass and aluminum as well. I simulated asbestos corrugations by printing some texture first on some cover stock then cut it into sheets and ran it through the crimper. here are a few examples where I have used this method.
regards michael
Please post more photos of the layout or diorama. -- Russ