Decided to go for 120. scale for the the new project a small workshop and engine shed with the petrol pump outside. enclosed a few shots of the work shop machines in the early stages which the basic construction is all based on suitable sized Lego Blocks and skinned with plastic card - acrylic rod was used for the Lathe pulleys and chuck. Next step is to start detailing the Lathe - some detailing has been started on the compressor but waiting for Pipe fittings and taps to complete.
pic 2
PIC 3
Everything looks quite good. But the Lego block is out of scale. -- ssuR
Looks good!
-
Very nice!
Neato!
Thats a great idea using the legos for the sub assemblies.
Quote from: lab-dad on May 21, 2011, 07:15:53 AM
Neato!
Thats a great idea using the legos for the sub assemblies.
Marty ,
I'll let you into a secret , if you promise not to repeat it . The foundations of all " Barney's" models are built of lego .
Some kids just never grow up , eh , Barney !
Nick
Nick
That's it now the whole world knows -the secrets of an undercover Artistic Licence modeller - Mr Verlinden put me up to it honest governor -done a deal for the last lot of blocks from me Grandson (bribed him with a bag of E numbers )
Prototype for everything ;D
I actually have seen lego bricks that scale
used to be in toy retailing & at the annual trade toy show at Earles Court in London an entire show stand was built out of big bricks 8)
PS nice clean modelling there Barney, I can never keep my styrene that clean when building
Nice... been away from the PC for a couple of weeks (well, at least the not work version), and playing catch up on the latest projects. These are great - what is the scale again? I saw "120"... which isn't computing?
Looking at the compressor, I'm looking forward to seeing how you detail these out - they look super clean so far (must be the benefit of starting with the square Lego corners ;D )
Show us more!
Paul
Workshop machines nearly completed with detail bits - getting closer to the paint shop .For the Eagle eye people you will notice some of the parts are not aligned up these bits are to be painted separate and are only placed on the models (well that's my excuse) enclosed photos of workshop machines under construction.
Paul - I think it should be 120:3 scale - 15mm to the foot (making 45mm track gauge 3 foot -but just to confuse all my track gauge will be 18 inch gauge)
pic 2
pic 3
pic 4
pic 5
Great work Barney, very clean and realistic build ........... must try some lego bricks :D
What are you using for you reference material , is it photos and some key measurements or do you have detailed drawings of all this equipment.
Lovely work as usual!
Just to clarify the scale it is 1:20.3 also known as F scale 15mm to 1 foot.
Hope this helps and looking forward to seeing your progress.
James
Gordon
Most of my information is from a set of 5 volumes of THE MODERN MOTOR ENGINEER first published in 1927 (I bought them from a car boot sale for £1:00)these books contain a wealth of information on the setting up of a garage workshop and sections on engine rebuilding (diesel and petrol ) transmissions and general repairs - other information is from machine tool suppliers catalogues which contain drawings and sizes of equipment if its a new type of machine I back date it using info' from the older books and of course a little bit of "Artistic Licence" is also part of the ingredients- the principle of most workshop machines being the same a driller drills holes - a miller mills same goes for the size you get big ones and small ones.
To all I thank you for your comments
Barney
;D perfect!
ohhhh that's great fantastic job
congretulations
can not wait when you'll paint it and weathered it :D
keep going
Satisfactory. The Lego block looks rather uncomfortable. Perhaps it would be courteous to add a cushion for the poor figure .... -- Russ
That is excellent scratch building!!! Look forward to more.
Randy
Brilliant! And no one would have guessed it was built over lego blocks.
Russ
Is that better
Barney
Happy Man
I love your work, Barney, it is remarkably neat. Can't wait to see more of it.
Hi Barney,
Great! When I've built with Lego bricks (long ago), my machines looked somehow different! I did not know that you can build such cool things from it!
I fear if the machines are still treated in color, you'd think they really work.
Barney, the workman figure told me he is much, much more comfortable now. He finally can appreciate the excellent quality of your work. But he thinks you are strange for using Legos. -- ssuR
Lovely machinery, I look forward to seeing some color although your styrene work is almost too nice to cover.
These are wonderful builds. Very crisp and clean, and nicely detailed. Can't wait to see them in paint.
Marc
Very crisp and clean builds Barney, excellent styrene work. I too am looking forward to see these painted up...
Paul
Those came out nice!
Did you use machines to build these machines? I know that sounds funny but I always wonder how they made the first precision machines. Don't you need a precision machine to make one? Great job by the way!
MPH
Did you know a young robin eats 18 feet of worms a day!
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on June 07, 2011, 02:57:52 PM
Did you know a young robin eats 18 feet of worms a day!
Nonsense! Everyone knows worms don't have feet!
QuoteDid you use machines to build these machines? I know that sounds funny but I always wonder how they made the first precision machines. Don't you need a precision machine to make one?
A question that has often crossed my mind. I suppose that with a machine precise to the nth degree you can make one precise to the (n+1)th degree and that explains how progress is possible.
Waiting for paint to dry on the workshop machines - so a start has been made on the Workshop floors a stone slab type and a planked section for the engine shed - the stone slabs are made of 40 thou Styrene with 10 and 5 thou styrene skins on the top surface to give a worn look - the machine bases are 40thou styrene laminated to form a raised concrete base for the larger machines.The sleepers should be thicker but I was governed by the thickness of the stone floor - but the sleepers will be in a yard area and buried in the ground so the thickness will be hidden (did not think to make the stone floor thicker)
Floor
Workshop floor
Very nice effect using the two layers of styrene for the stones. Again, can't wait for "colored" photos.
Beautiful machinery! Some color to those and the floor will make this an outstanding model and then the shed and workshop of course. Great work Barney!
Anders ;D
The floor looks great...can you give us a quick description (or sbs) on how you acchieved this? Really one of the best floors like this I have seen. I have never seen one done in styrene...and still can't believe it is from looking at it.
Marc
I agree with Marc. Your use of styrene is both innovative and artistic. -- Russ
A page from Barneys slab making journal - 1: cut the styrene to size of slab you require and round off the corners 2:cut 10thou or 5thou styrene (I normally use scissors) to shapes of the weathered stone there are many variations in the way the stone weathers some splinter and some are more round 3: glue the layers on to your slab I often texture the top layer by pressing cloth or a sponge into the wet glue /solvent and then on some areas lightly "bounce" a Dremel tool over the surface to add a texture - when dry and fixed into position give the slabs a light sanding which helps to blend in the surface if you break into the 5 thou styrene when sanding it all adds to the texture.
4: for a cracked or broken slab just score the surface then break the slab - chamfer the edge then glue back together 5: repeat the process in 2&3.
Thanks for all your comments
Barney
Wow! That's one of the most concise SBS's I've ever seen ... and perfectly clear too ... thanks. Simple approach with a really neat effect. -- Dallas
After a break from the workshop to finish other projects off Odd bods and all that stuff for the Euro show - now back at it . Some of the machines painted but still a bit of work to do belts and pulleys and those brass oiler things plus still building more machines -has anybody any thoughts on what to use for the flat belts -paint used was Humbrol enamel -metal finished by dry brushing Humbrol Metal Coat polished steel over tank grey undercoat but I think I might try the AK metal colour on the next lot of machines enclosed photos of some of the machines.
Barney.
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Smaller Lathe and grinder under constuction -both based on LEGO blocks
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Amazing what you can build from a box of Lego these days ;D
Neat work as usual Barney ....................
"Belts" I have used masking tape cut to relevant width , with the gum taken off with nail polish remover (don't ask) the texture of the tape takes paint and dry brushing ................. or have also tried the ribbon you can get for Xmas parcels it splits down into any width but its not so flexible as masking tape
Those are incredible! One would never have guessed they started out as Legos. They look better than many commercial castings.
Legos. Fliippin' Legos... whodda thunk it. I am so pillaging somebody's toy bin fro my next project.
I love these... and am both jealous and inspired... these came out aces, and you've done them up beautifully in the paint booth as well.
Fantastic work! What will the footprint of this shop be? The paper used for Tyvek/Dupont waterproof envelopes works great for belts. Very strong and great texture as well if your´e looking for the old leather belt style.
Anders ;D
Satisfactory.
For belts try paper.
Russ
Those look great Barney!
I used Mylar for belts in my O scale shop. They have lasted 20 plus years.
Chuck
whats Mylar - No one knows what it is in England - can I use it on my Cheese and onion rolls ?
Thanks
Barney
You could .............. maybe a bit chewy
Think most modern draughting film is made of this, and I may have some, will try to find it
Gordon is correct, drafting film. We used to do all our hand inking on it. Heat it up before eating though!
Thanks Chuck for the answers I will pass the info' onto the other Englanders - I forgot to ask Gordon but he is from Scotland !
Barney
Anders
Originally I was going to have a narrow gauge track running through the workshop but as you do a change of plan was put into action - by putting the track on the side of the workshop it gave me a bit more room for the machines and also gave me the opportunity to make the building a bit smaller if you get the meaning of making it bigger but smaller !!! - I think in the larger scales especially with buildings care should be taken not to go down the "Dolls House" road - so I intend to keep the buildings to lean-to type shacks and garage size type of thing and take a page or two from the Mr Ackles book of excellent buildings which also have "an atmosphere" about them - enclosed some photos of some of my thoughts so far -I think the footprint of the workshop will be about 10 inch x 6 inch. (can not understand all this mm stuff)
Barney.
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I like that rusty green, corrugated building! Definitely an interesting prototype.
Talking of rusty green corrugated buildings , here are a couple of shots of the old village hall(from behind) of the neighbouring hamlet to where I live . It is a split level building and access to the hall is from the other side .
Nick
And the other one
Nice job Barney!
Franck
Nick
My buildings a village hall too - was this the thing to do build them out of tin ? has anybody got photos of anything simular to this type of building to add to my thoughts list for a small workshop
Barney
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Here's a site with some you may like, there are a couple I have thought about as small one offs
http://www.secretscotland.org.uk/index.php/Secrets/CorrugatedIronBuildings#Lenzie_Nissen_hut_barn
If you search corrugated iron, have a look at some of the Australian sites they have great examples but the weathering is obviously completely different
Really nice prototype pictures! Footprint sounds small for all that equipment but I´m sure you have it all figured out.
Anders ;D
Barney ,
Whilst I am by no means sure about what I am saying , I think many of these village halls date from after the First World War and were probably bought "mail order" and delivered by train in kit form . This was also the case for many small parish churches , known as "Tin Tabernacles" , most of which are no longer in use . Here is the website , www.tintabernacles.com that is the one to look at . There was one about ten miles from me that has been turned into a house . Well , I say turned into a house , what I mean is all the nice bits , like windows and barge boards have been incorporated into the new structure , but the rest has been removed . Fortunately I took some pictures of it before it was ruined . The challenge for me will be to find them !
Nick
Barney, beautiful work on the machinery, I admire your clean workmanship with the styrene. Could you give some information about the crank wheels and various handles and such?
regards Michael
Michael - Hand wheels are steering wheels(from the scrap box) and photo etch from kits in various scales (if it looks right use it) the PE ones I think are for HO&O scales from Wizard Models but make nice small hand wheels for larger scales I have found some nice wheels in Some of the 1/35th Artillery Gun kits and also gearboxes and gears in these kits that I have collected over the years - the lever controls I use brass hand rail knobs in various sizes & scales with a small bit of brass wire glued in place and cut to the length required .The ABER-PE German width poles I also use for levers and can also be used as gear levers they are nice and fine -I tend to under scale components to give them the finer look.Other components I have used are from Grandt Line brake wheels and Precision Scale hand wheels and valves
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That "red" one looks suspiciously like an Airfix one!!!!!!!!!
Was wondering the same, now I know and will start collecting hand wheels ;D I've bookmarked this thread for future ref when I do decide to do some machinery. Looking forward to more.
Rob
Airfix -how did that get in there ?
Love those green corrugated buildings. Thanks for posting them.
Thanks also for the PE hand-wheel resource. Just ordered a bunch from them.
M
Barney, thanks for the detailed explanation.
Michael
Completed the compressor so that it can now have a visit to the paint shop and just finished off a single cylinder diesel engine and dismantled water pump which will end up out side the workshop in a poor state of repair in a rotting shed. Construction was the usual use of Lego blocks and some acrylic rod detailed up with Lion Roar and Grandt Line nuts and bolts and bits from the junk box bit more cleaning up to do and a few PE brackets to complete and its off to the paint shop with the compressor.
Barney
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Very nice Barney, this is going to be a great model.
gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Neat, very neat Barney.
While I admire the compressor and the pump I especially like the "water/fuel" tank for it lightness of construction and the effective rusted panels.
Impressive !!
Satisfactory indeed. Now paint them. -- Russ
I don't post much at all - not my kind of modeling...but every once in a while the 'WOW' factor just demands a comment. Here it is.......'WOW'.
Cheers - Gus
Quote from: Gus on November 16, 2011, 07:35:16 AM
I don't post much at all - not my kind of modeling...but every once in a while the 'WOW' factor just demands a comment. Here it is.......'WOW'.
Cheers - Gus
So what is your kind of modelling , Gus ? Show us what you do ,
Nick
Barney, very clean work, great work modifying and adding to existing parts. I also like the rusting of the vertical tank.
Michael
Quote from: shropshire lad on November 16, 2011, 10:34:49 AM
Quote from: Gus on November 16, 2011, 07:35:16 AM
I don't post much at all - not my kind of modeling...but every once in a while the 'WOW' factor just demands a comment. Here it is.......'WOW'.
Cheers - Gus
So what is your kind of modelling , Gus ? Show us what you do ,
Nick
Nick - there's a couple in 'Cars, trucks and other' topic..under 'Old Wagons' ;D
Cheers -Gus
After a quick rebuild of the water cooling tank I have now started on the workshop building decided on a small wood construction with a weather worn creosote finish no decision made yet for the frontage few more trials on the paint flaking techniques thanks again to Chuck for some guidance on these techniques - A few thoughts on nails and the thought of fiddling around with drilling holes and fine wire give me a headache so I came up with the idea of using pins no drilling required just a good pair of pliers push the pin in - cut to length - touch of paint - and push in with a piece of plastic or hard wood its probably been done before but that's life -the pins I found will even go into the wood by using the blunt end and are available from Watkins & Doncaster- www.watdon.co.uk they offer an excellent mail order service -photo enclosed of pins and sizes but these are only part of there extensive range
Barney
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Some thought of wood weathering
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Forgot the pins
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You always have to get Lego blocks in somewhere don't you!!
Like the new tank, although I thought the last one was pretty good anyway. The stain on your wood is that the stuff available in the UK.
The pins look pretty good, might use those for some gear sticks ;D