I have been working on a ¼" scale Willamette loader engine. The kit is a C.H.B. DE-1000. From what I have been told by Brett at Sierra West this was one of the last projects Charlie Brommer worked on. Brett also told me only about 100 kits were ever produced. I also have the oil tank/burner option. Only about 40 of these were known to exist. That said I am very honored to have one of these kits. This particular kit has a sorted history and has made it's way back and forth across the country, I'm glad I finally got it!
I wanted to depict a machine in the beginning of it's life, not run down and ready to explode. I used a new technique (for me) to color the castings. The kit is entirely metal so I first blasted it with baking soda. After cleaning I gave all the parts a dunk in blacken it. After the blacken it had dried I painted on Windsor & Newton lamp black artist oil. After about 10 minutes I used a stencil brush to "burnish" and/or wipe away any excess paint. I like the effect it gives.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fboiler.jpg&hash=892ce42cc663f38be63d17d5f63e8920ff9c98c7)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Ftank.jpg&hash=2c9be9818c894f6934fe68f414812bf1b24ec8c2)
I have lots to do (these are early on in the construction) and some surprises along the way also.
I hope you enjoy.
More soon.
-Marty
Marty, Look's good so far ;) Ill be following along on this build, looking forward to see how you go about painting & weathering the Willamette Loader ;D
Marty --
Good looking finish you've got going there ... looking forward to your build.
Cheers,
Dallas
Marty.
I am not sure I understand what you are trying to do with the finish. I understand that you want this to be a newer in use machine, but I don't get the metal look....If I recall correctly, I am pretty sure, Willamete painted all their donkeys....but I can check the catalog.
If you are going to keep the metal look, the boiler looks better than the water/oil tank...on that the sanding or wirebrush marks are really distracting and strange looking.
Marc
QuoteI have been working on a ¼" scale Willamette loader engine. The kit is a C.H.B. DE-1000. From what I have been told by Brett at Sierra West this was one of the last projects Charlie Brommer worked on. Brett also told me only about 100 kits were ever produced.
Thanks to Marc and through Russ I am the proud owner of 2 of these CHB DE-1000 kits. This is a fantastic model an in my opinion the CHB donkeys are the best 1/4" donkey ever produced.
One has been built and is waiting to be installed on a 50'0" sled. I have the matching fairleads and I am (still) searching for a suitable watertank. I intend to install this unit on a number of disconnects for transport from the workshop to the "woods" in the storage area.
looking forward to how you will finish it.
Jacq
looks like a beauty Marty
Thanks guys!
Marc,
I agree the lines/streaks are very distracting, but, this was early on in the build.
Multiple layers are/will be applied. The lines are actually brush strokes in the oil from the stencil brush.
After a few more layers it is gone.
As far as "paint" I am unsure. Trying to look at B&W images to discern color is very hard.
I am trying to achieve what I think the paint would look like from the heat of 3 years on a boiler.
Looking at the reference images I am trying to match the "sheen" I see.
Also wouldn't a well loved new machine have been wiped with oil to keep it pretty?
I appreciate any additional info.
-Marty
Marty,
what are the dimensions of the oil/water tank ? I am looking for a water tank for wood burning variant or a oil/water tank + piping and additional info to make one of the units an oilburner.
Jacq
I will be interested in your adventure as I also have one of these about 1/2 done and stalled for some years now.
Marty, first of all congrats on acquiring (from what I hear) is a very nice kit. I like the look you have achieved so far. I have a question regarding the use of Blacken-It on cast parts. Do you (or anyone) have any problems with glue holding on parts that have been treated?
Jacq,
The o.d. is 5 feet, will check the length when i get home.
Do you have the book "in search of steam donkeys"?
lots of good info there.
Also a Willamette catalog from the same publisher has more than enough info for the conversion.
Then again I am sure Marc could provide a lot of info too.
chester,
Thanks!
you have to remove the oxidation (black) in order for the adhesive to work
Chester, I have had no problems with glue holding when i used Blacken-it......and i used it on all the white metal parts on my O scale tow truck project :) [I used gel-super-glue on this build]
-MJ
Looks good. I'm sure as you weather it slightly the lines will start to blend in.
Jerry
Marty,
All the photos (not catalog images, as these were often retouched or shot with the equipment in a "photo grey" paint finish) of the new donkeys show them being painted in black, or black and some color (since you reference "In search of Steam Donkeys". there are numerous images in there that clearly show the paintd finish).
I couldn't find a paint spec/finish note in the Clyde or Willamette catalog, however...and this goes directly to your point of "newer but used equipment", in the Washington Iron Works Catalog (another large mfr of logging equipment) it states under the section titled "A Few Suggestions For The Care And Maintenance Of Logging Engines [donkeys] And Boilers" ...."When laid up for the season, engine and boiler should be toroughly cleaned, greased, painted, and housed, and the stack covered to keep water off tubes and the boiler head." Likely what you are seeing as "sheen" in the images of units in the woods, is either still from the original paint luster, or from being wiped down with oily rags...or just a lighting result....but almost most definitely not silver metal, as this would oxidize very quickly.
Marc
Jacq,
If you cant find it in the book (or don't have the book) I can probably pull you images and diagrams of the oil burner piping and set-up.
Marc
PS. I may have another CHB oil & water tank in my stuff...I'll check and let you know if I do.
Oil burner piping would be interesting to see....
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 02, 2011, 02:01:11 PM
Oil burner piping would be interesting to see....
Oh sure, push the matter....like I don't have enough to do this week. ;D
Marc
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Frightapril2.jpg&hash=25f9f0f9fb344e19cf86620c3af05c591a8f02f9)
Does this look any better?
any suggestions on the color here?
A little late to repaint the whole thing. :(
-mj
-MJ
I'm not an expert. But it looks pretty dam good to me.
Jerry
I agree and what a GREAT kit..... ::)! All details seem to be there according to the books mentioned here earlier "In Search of Steam Donkeys" and the Wilamette reprint cat.
Anders ;D
What Jerry said.
Marty,
what is the reason for the different color of the cleaning access opening locks ?
Shouldn't the brake surface on the drums be blank metal ?
Will you add grease / oil on wear surfaces ?
It looks your kit had complete hinges for the hood. The hinges in both kits I have were damaged/not complete.
Here a photo of the unfinished kit. Still have to add the waterglas of the boiler, water and oil tank with piping.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages12.fotki.com%2Fv240%2Fphotos%2F7%2F1437817%2F8791338%2FDSC_4643-vi.jpg&hash=a8b3b6fbe9de6aeab9b466ff8da7228137590cc9)
The model was painted with Humbrol/Revell faded black. After an extended drying period ;) , Abt 502 grease and oil have added to all wear surface like bearings, gears, etc.
I hope to have the donkey on the 52'0" sled ready for the US-convention 17/18 October in Frankfurt.
Jacq
P.S. I have the Willamette catologue reprint and the book "In search of Steam Donkeys" + some other logging books with good photo's of donkeys in operation.
I think the color looks fine as a starting point. You might consider some gwosh weathering since it can be adjusted or even removed if you dont like it. You might test on something first.
Marc might have some ideas for oil paints. I haven't done much with them yet. And MArc take you time on the info, my project is at least 6 years on hold. But I am getting interested again...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages40.fotki.com%2Fv1339%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2FDSCF8786-vi.jpg&hash=03c29ece9230c8e3ef1d75b732de0ae610fe0ebe)
I never got beyond the Hobby Black stage on mine.
Jerry, Junior, Chester, Thank you.
Jacq,
Thanks. The brake drums are shiny/bare/polished, just does not show up good.
The crab claws are a different color because I have not done anything to them yet.
I kinda liked the different color (at first) but it is too much, again this is early in the construction.
They would only be rusty if they were leaking - not good!
I have not added any grease/oil yet, again it is not done.
More on my sled later also.....
On the bonnet mine was destroyed also.
I rebuilt the hinges in brass strap and used .5mm bolts to attach them to the castings.
Here is a shot of it open;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fopentopapril.jpg&hash=2b99598fa6edb97f864a4c9f0d9eb30f1e23f274)
Chuck thanks for the gawsh suggestion, I "might" try that.
Looks like you have a good start on a sled too!
-Marty
I think it looks good, Marty. No nitpicks at this stage. -- Russ
Marty; The coloring built model looks good...when all together and with some weathering it worked out. No way you built that overnight though...why the subterfuge. ;D
Jacq; I like the coloring so far, I think Chuck's idea of some fading, shading, and streaking is spot on, and will bring it to life.
Really glad to see that both of these got built into such lovely models, and will be put to good use. Better than just sitting on a shelf. :)
Chuck; I really like the sled, graining and attention to detail are perfect. I have a bunch of logging blocks, tongs and such, (even fairleads...though those are more for a yarder) if you want/need them to hang on the unit.
Marc
I love your model, Marty. It's more complicated than the AH&D so I won't try to scratchbuild one, I think. Makes me even more admirative for Charles Brommer fantastic work as a kit designer and maker.
The colors of the top of the boiler when the bonnet is open are wonderful.
Sorry Marc,
I was not going to post but Jerry kept asking so i figured what the hell.
I like to stay ahead of the photos in case I screw up.
Glad you all like the current coloring....more layers to come though!
nad I always appreciate feedback (even when I dont like it) ;)
CHUCK What color would you suggest for the gawsh? Black? and/or?......
Fredric i agree i think some additional layers on your model will really bring it to life!
-Marty
They WOULD, Marty. The donkey was glued and covered by a shed... But I agree that on a more visible model, the kind of finish you've done is a great plus.
Marty,
been watching your progress and I think your model will turn out great. Called to mind the attached photo's... obviously this loader is 'stuffed and mounted' but recent paint and a little weathering which hopefully might help with your weathering choice and I hope is close to the finish you were aiming for.
I think that modelling a machine in the early stages of use is much harder to realistically depict than something that has seen a decade or so of abuse in the woods. There is no where to hide errors. Brave!
hope the pics are of some use.
James
last one but I have more if you want them. :)
J
James, PM sent. Thanks Pat
James,
QuoteI think that modelling a machine in the early stages of use is much harder to realistically depict than something that has seen a decade or so of abuse in the woods. There is no where to hide errors. Brave!
Ain't that the truth!
The pictures are WONDERFUL!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Please post more, let everyone see them.
Thanks a bunch!
-Marty
Thanks for the offer Marc. I still have a bunch of items I stashed away for my project. I got delayed waiting for the Vintage Reproductions cable and it killed my momentum. The sled just has one coat of Silverwood and I got stalled trying to figure out the color like Marty.
I recently started getting interested in building a junkyard Shay and I have been looking at older boiler coloring. Lots of blue some of which you can see in the streaks in James' pics. I'm not sure exactly what colors to start with. Maybe some black and white to make a faded grey/black mottle. I have been mixing it on a palette to make colors. If I were to start I would look at real ones (locos too) to get a feel for what colors are there. The stack and cone might have some light rusting similar to a shay smokebox. They would probably not climb up there regularly for cleaning during a work period. The one in my Fotki album is a working machine although it isn't used regularly.
Marc,
If your cleaning out your O scale logging stuff I'll give it a good home!
Chuck were you answering my question or just speaking in general?
After looking at James' pictures I was thinking of the dullcoat/alcohol trick for the white.
Then some oil black for the shiny, now that you mention the blue I agree may be adding some prussian blue to the lamp black oil streaks?
-Marty
I thought I was answering the question.;D
Just so Marc doesn't think I am sandbagging here is a shot of the skids...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fsledaprilnonuts.jpg&hash=591de4479a480e3d324860d695ab57042c831e21)
This is actually the 3rd one I have made for this project!
The plans I have been using (From Willamette) call for a sled of approximately 65 feet in length. Thats over 15" in scale! It just didnt look "right" on my RR. My sled is 48' long.
I was worried but then Jacq said his was 55'....... ???
Other than that is is made exactly like the Willamette plans call for.
The square mortises for the NBW's were made using square brass tube sharpened. I then use a fixture to center the tube on a hole drilled on my mill. The tube makes the square outline and I use a #11 to finish the hole. The mortises for the sled plates were cut by hand using a #11.
Thanks for clarifying Chuck. ;D
-Marty
Chuck: If you decide to continue on the Shay, and you need them, I have a full set of Kemtron brass castings and parts for a three cylinder drive set-up. I once bought these with a sim intent of building an abandoned loco...or for parts around a repair shed.....but that project is unlikely to ever materialize. ;D
Marty; I have pretty much purged all my logging stuff. All I have left are a box of CHB and McKenzie detail parts (which I plan on keeping unless I see someone can really use, or needs, them on a build...and I have an AHD 3-drum hoisting engine kit that nobody wanted. :) I also have a torn apart Bman Shay and a Backwoods detail kit for it......that's it. I am pretty much done with ever building anything O-scale logging related.
Marty,
glad you liked the photo's.
A few more as requested...
James
Next few are of the shaded side so the colours show up very differently...
2 more...
and that is basically it I think.
Looking forward to seeing more of your progress :)
James
How long did it take to assemble such a machine in the factory?
QuoteThe plans I have been using (From Willamette) call for a sled of approximately 65 feet in length. Thats over 15" in scale! It just didnt look "right" on my RR. My sled is 48' long.
There were actually formulas for determining the sled size to be used for a given engine. But, I think, like everything else these were open to individual interpretation. During the era of rail transport of Donkeys the sleds were generally held to the 40-42 foot length for easy transport on a 40 foot flat car. Of course, this only applied to the small to medium engines, for the larger engines the correct sled lengths were generally used and they were transported on 2 flat cars.
One of the formulas I remember reading about called for the Fairlead to be 1.5 feet from the mainline drum for every inch of drum width. Example; If the mainline drum was 30 inches wide the fairlead should be 45 feet from the drum. Easy to see how this formula could stretch out the length of a sled.
When I built my 3 drum AH&D in 1:20 scale I cut the sled back to 26 actual inchs it should have been 37 inches using the formula above. That would really have taken two flatcars but I don't think it would have tracked well even with my 10 foot minimum radius track.
Later
Rick
James, those are great pics! What a wonderfully complex machine. Nice to see it in such good condition too. Where is it located?
BTW, I liked your cover art on the recent "Annual" and the "Gazette".
Ray,
thanks, and thanks!
The Loader is in Scotia, California alongside a Standard Gauge Heisler and a really cute little single cylinder, single spool Donkey engine...
Joanne and I came across them by pure chance when looking for somewhere to eat whilst travelling down through California after the Narrow Gauge convention in Portland a few years ago... serendipity!
James
Some more progress.........
Dont want Marc to accuse me of sandbagging....
Had to redo the roof though, minor miscalculations... >:(
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fhouseframeandnutsmay1.jpg&hash=29db1be629f7e4968a0f261b77b92ee38fecf92b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Froofframe.jpg&hash=0d23944f02c0b14ae233cf86846e34056f62d0de)
Roof frame "before" the modifications.....................
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Frooffront.jpg&hash=0ba967fa650680f7266e8b73b543f70b15b08e6f)
-Marty
Looks good MJ.
Jerry
Some progress and some additional weathering.
More soon.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fmat15a.jpg&hash=db335c7fe41b5fc1cff57116b171ecc05a7b672c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fmay15c.jpg&hash=08e6dc29482df9dab69e308ef0a81ca3cc79b3c6)
-Marty
Marty, like the sled, the roof, the engine, the winch. Heck I like it all.
Marty, Coming along nicely ;)
-MJ
Very nice indeed. The weathering is coming along very nicely.
Jerry
I like it!
Glad you have found some time to continue the project. -- Russ
Weather weenies say rainy season is coming, figured I better get the roof done.
Not "exactly" what i wanted but i think it may work........
Two pics and an artsy fartsy one.
Also got the footboard & brackets on.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Froofonfrontside.jpg&hash=c373b6e31c90161e0f715082fc3f03c86ea866da)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Froofonbackside.jpg&hash=31ba3a75c3d29e2ebaef8ab0b55c68b290311442)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Froof-2.jpg&hash=200a1b32e27f3d14ef2688518e7b2c5c1b677ba7)
-Marty
Sweet! That last shot is really nice.
That's one helluva nice land yacht! -- Dallas
Very nice!
Satisfactory. Next year's Logging Annual is calling out to you. -- Russ
Marty,
a great looking model of a lovely machine.
Got me looking at my photo's of similar equipment and came up with this photo... thought you might like it.
James
Thanks guys!
James, that is a great plate, may be I can get one etched to go with the etched "Willamette" crank guards.
I'm surprised no one noticed them.
Thanks again boys!
-Marty
Quote from: finescalerr on June 01, 2011, 01:16:12 AM
Satisfactory. Next year's Logging Annual is calling out to you. -- Russ
Hell I thought it was excellent.
Jerry
Marty,
hadn't noticed your etch- I think it's easy to mistake them for transfers in your photo's- good job. This is the location of the patent plate (on the mainframe just below the lead spool) and there are some other often missed plates and lettering in the following photo's... just in case you decide to go crazy with etched parts.
James
There is also an engraved plate on the side of the cylinder and often missed cast in lettering on the frame end.
Thanks James!
I think I could add the smaller plates, thanks for the images.
I really wish Charlie would have done the letting on the front, but if he couldn't do it - no one can!
May be the technology is now at the point it is possible, too late for me and my model.
I kinda figured the etched guards were mistaken for decals.
I got the guards from Keith Weissman YEARS ago.
-Marty
QuoteI'm surprised no one noticed them.
gimme a chance ::)
the crankguards are very wel done, how did you make them ?
Coming along very nicely.
Jacq
QuoteI really wish Charlie would have done the letting on the front, but if he couldn't do it - no one can!
May be the technology is now at the point it is possible, too late for me and my model.
Maybe someone like Archer (http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html) ...or someone that has sim capabilities....will make you a one-off set of raised cast resin lettering decals for this.
Maybe this one would be the right size lettering to piece together "Willamette"
http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88007.html (http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88007.html)
Marc
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages20.fotki.com%2Fv249%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2876661%2FDSCF2242R-vi.jpg&hash=336e554c2f04c972bcae94fd91a97ccc78fa99f7)
Theres a lot more lettering on the front. I butted mine up against a large timber crosspiece to hide the missing lettering. I assumed the guards were decals too. Nice!
Thanks Marc, I think it is too late for this model.
Chuck, you cheated! ;)
I think I will just put some old blocks and crap there.
-Mj
Quote from: lab-dad on June 01, 2011, 08:00:58 AM
I really wish Charlie would have done the letting on the front, but if he couldn't do it - no one can!
If 3d printed had been around back then he could have done it!
I wanted the butterfly in the stack to be functional..............
So after this afternoons efforts, here it is.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fstackclosed.jpg&hash=d97322a4e4f75d04b9ced8429e45d571f81c7e89)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fstackopen.jpg&hash=a626dd286c80829548ff70851cc8fe65a11ab104)
-Marty
Hello Marty, Wonderfull work on a great kit!! The working damper is super.
Randy
Cool. Nice touch.
Disgusting. -- Russ
Thanks, Marty, I've learned one more fact about stacks and their covers.
Show off!!!!
Jerry
Now you have to go one step further and make it working with memory wire 8) and a smoke unit.
each time you start the smoke unit, the butterflly opens ;D ;D
Jacq
Thanks guys!
Let us not get crazy Jacq!
I will leave such insanity to the brick layers :P
-Marty
Marty, The working damper is a nice touch ;) look's good.
Quote from: lab-dad on June 05, 2011, 02:28:05 PM
Thanks guys!
Let us not get crazy Jacq!
I will leave such insanity to the brick layers :P
-Marty
I heard that ,
Nick
( I was going to call you but couldn't be bothered to get out of my armchair to pick up the phone . Only joking , I haven't got an armchair ! )
I knew that would get your attention!
That black & white picture looks like it´s right out of the Willamette catalog :o. Excellent work so far Marty!
Anders ;D
Thanks Anders!
Actually thanks everyone!
I was thinking of making up an ad for Willamette when i get it finished.
Would look cool hanging in the train room!
-Marty
Nice detail!
Well it is finally done!
I am most pleased with the final results and images.
Seemed like it took longer than 3 1/2 months!
Eventually I will construct and rig it to a spar tree with a loading scene.
Dont hold your breath on that getting done soon though!
-Marty
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FDSC_2486.jpg&hash=07f750df20a13ad49104ea78cd5bb05b15f3d12f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FDSC_2486cropped.jpg&hash=14a36aed728f2898c232b7ad79e76262d01eec20)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FDSC_2495.jpg&hash=6d1b9b2b05c8cfdff3db883003b229ba2951de8c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FDSC_2502.jpg&hash=381946a7572471d93c7d35fe25df2bac66d57fc0)
Nice job Marty, good to see you back at your workbench.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Marty, WOW.... nice work ;D
Beautiful job with all the surfaces and textures.
Some pretty nice construction, too......
-MJ
Now that is some impressive modeling. Great coloring and weathering.
Excellent job!!!
Jerry
That came out nice, Marty. Maybe some bark and debris scattered on the sled when you install it?
Good inspiration if I ever get back to mine.
Well done! I like the slightly used look.
... And it even has a chain. (But thankfully no antlers.) -- Russ
Really nice work Marty! The shelf on the post with all those details looks great! Could we have a close up please? Scratchbuilt or part of the kit? ???
Anders ;D
Thanks Junior!
The storage box is copied from a picture in "In Search of Steam Donkeys"
The items in it are from the scrap box.
Here is a link to a larger pic;
http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii121/lab-dad-jones/?action=view¤t=DSC_2486cropped.jpg (http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii121/lab-dad-jones/?action=view¤t=DSC_2486cropped.jpg)
-Marty
Marty,
that is very clean and tidy modeling, very impressive
All the little things are there with clean assemblies, subtle weathering touches and so forth ... it just "feels right". Very nice! -- Dallas
Hi Marty,
Congrats on a fine model:) The little things like the damper and small shelf really add to a great kit!!
Randy