This is a small industrial diesel tractor locomotive. These types of locomotives were built using a farm tractor as the mechanical and motive power, and then modified /built into frames/chassis to function on railroad tracks.
The tractor portion was for this model was built from heavily modified parts from a Bandai SdKfz kit. The frame was kit-bashed and scratched using parts from a Grand Line Battery Mine loco. I still have a quite a number of parts and details to add. The model is about 5cm long.
So far the painting process is pretty straightforward:
After primer, preshading was done using Tamiya ?Nato Black?.
Base color was Tamiya ?JN Grey? (XF-12) at lightened to about 90%. This was then followed by two ?fading? coats of the same, each at about an additional 10-15% lighter.
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Following this filters were added using Windsor Newton artists oils: Prussian Blue (#33), Sap Green (#37), and Naples Yellow (#29). When dry, it was given multiple light washes of Paynes Grey (#32), and Black (with just a smidge of Burnt Umber).
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I needed to chip and oil stain some of the areas that would be difficult to reach once the remainder of the parts were attached. For the chipping I used a mix of Vallejo Acrylics German Camo Black Brown (#822) and Black Grey (#862). Oil staining and ?goop? was done with a mixture of artists oils, Bragdons weathering powders, and Guache.
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Further painting and weathering to come...
Marc
Came home last night after a dinner and a few stiff drinks, and decided to start the chipping on the critter frame.
The chips and scratches were painted with Vallejo acrylic paint For the chipping I used a mix of Vallejo Acrylics "German Camo Black Brown" (#822) and "Black Grey" (#862)., using a 0/18 brush. The wear on the horizontal surface was done using a small piece of fine sponge, and the brush. The frame took about 4 hours.
Looking at it this morning, I think I got a little bit carried away on the edges/corners of the front and rear?..but I fortunately found a prototype photo that helps vindicate this (whew!)?plus (hopefully) I think the rust, dust, and oil, will tone this down and blend it out a bit.
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Scratches on the side-frame were dine with the 0/18 brush. I used piece of styrene with a radiused edge, laid parallel to the side-frame, to draw the brush along.
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Marc
Please keep the posts coming, Marc. I don't know whether anybody else is following your progress but I certainly am.--Russ
Thanks guys. :)
Took some photos of the rusting process (took them outside in natural light). So far the rusting has taken 6 hours. I still have to do the rest of the side-frame at the rear of the left side, and the gas tank (not quite sure yet of how I want to approach the tank wear/rusting??I am also considering changing it to a different style gas tank.)
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The diamond tread plate in the drivers area is an O-scale styrene product painted with washes of Life Color Acryrylics. The the gauges are from a 1/72 WWI bi-plane ?pre-colored? PE set from Eduard.
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The brushes and paints used for rusting.
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The next step will be ?pre-dust???but I am not quite sure about how I want to go about it...whether I want to use Guache, or Tamiya Acrylics. A bit concerned about screwing it up.
Marc
Marc
That's looking really neat. Reminds me of a loco that once worked in an Enzed boatyard with a Fordson Major power unit mounted in an old battery loco frame.
QuoteI am also considering changing it to a different style gas tank
I guess a nitpicker could argue that a convex-ended tank like you currently have is more typical of a pressure vessel than an ordinary unpressurised fuel tank. It's not the sort of construction you see a lot of on older machinery -- it might be quite a nice effect to paint it as a replacement item, in better condition than the rest of the loco.
Thanks Krusty....great idea!.....what would you think of the tank in basic red oxide, but the strapping and mounts in the same waethered green as the loco....sort of like they found a new one that fit the old mounts?
Marc
Quotewhat would you think of the tank in basic red oxide, but the strapping and mounts in the same waethered green as the loco....sort of like they found a new one that fit the old mounts?
Yeah. That should work. Or maybe yellow, or a different shade of green. It would want to be sufficiently different in colour to obviously a replacement, but not so different that it hits you in the face. You would want to look at the lok for a few seconds before it dawned on you that the tank had been replaced.
Hi Marc, Rich, et al, I've got back on board!
Nice critter Mark, love the weathering. Might I suggest you cut off the ends of the tank and simply turn them round so they're concave. That would look more in keeping maybe, then do as Rusty suggests too?
Cheers, Hector
Oh, just swell!.....now I need to see if I can pry that thing off cleanly (I guess that's where Oils and rust stains help hide any problems ;D ), and find or make a suitable replacement (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fbanghead_125.gif&hash=7b70d6fbd2a9609b41d5d7633908a72e50b1ad82)......Iactually cant use the same tank and make it convex, as it is a solid white metal casting. The one I am thinking of would likely be abit "narrower", so I will need to re-think the mounts also.(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fimages%2Fbanghead_125.gif&hash=7b70d6fbd2a9609b41d5d7633908a72e50b1ad82) ...well, I guess better late than never. ;D
marc
Marc,
You could use some wood to make up the difference in the mount/tank diameters.
Looks like thats what they did on my Plymouth (and what I am doing).
I'd be happy to turn you a tank if need be.
-Marty
Marc
As always another awesome project. Just outstanding.
-MJ why no pictures?
Jerry
Marc, the chances are a flat end would be most likely, maybe you could use the whitemetal one, still. Styrene ends, but don't forget the little rolled seam round the outside!! How's that Rich. Now can I have my Mr. Anal prize, pleeease!
Take no notice of these people Mark, they're winding us up. Fact is they can do it just as well ;)
Bits of wood chocking the tank out to existing straps would show it as a replacement, n'est pas?
Hector
oooohhhhh....this tank thing is giving me a headache.......Ineed to ponder it over a bit, and see that I can come up with. I may build one or two first, before removing the old one.
But in the meantime, to kind of get my mind off it for a day or two, I have started on the aforementiond dreaded scenery.
In order to elevate the loco for better viewing, and to give a hint of context for the model I decided to build a display base. The base is built out of .080 sheet styrene, and some assorted strips, from Evergreen. Once built and sanded the top of the styrene was shaped to mach my proposed ground contour. A Piece of 1" thick insulation foam was then cut and inserted into the base, and shaped to match the styrene edge contour.
Fabrication time to this point about 6 hours. Cost about $2.50.
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Next he base was then primed with Mr. Surfacer 1000, and the foam received a brush applied base coat of Liquitex modeling paste, tinted with Woodland Scenics Raw Umber tint.
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Next step is to see if I can vacum form some pressed metal sectional track ties....that should be fun ::)
Marc
Rich, those cherry clusters make it the very devil to sit at the work bench, guess I'll keep taking the tablets, eh?
Hector
No worries Rich...I knew what you meant...just giving you a hard time. ;)
Well it took all darn day on Sunday, but I finally got 5 sleepers made for the sectional metal track piece.
I ended up making them out of .003 paper, so they scale out more prototypically?..I was going to try and vacuum form them, or emboss them in sheet brass, but neither of those proved a workable solution??so I did the same method I did with the OOB 38t corrugated?I soaked the paper piece in diluted matte medium, and then press embossed it into a two part styrene ?form?. When dry, they were removed and trimmed, then sealed with a brush coat of Dullcoat. For stiffness under the rails a short (34? scale) piece of inverted .100 styrene channel was ACC glued to the underside. I still need to make the small bolt fasteners o hold the rail to the sleepers.
The ties are each a scale 5-1/2? x 2?.
Coloring was done using using the new Life Color weathering set/washes, Bragdons weathering powders, and artists oils
These photos were taken after I had to remove all the rock and dirt scenery around them and on the base, because I did not like the way it came out. The orange rust are some areas where I used a wash of Bragdons powders to color some damage from and remnants of the scenery. These will be better blended in the final finish. It was actually not bad, the damage left texture that looks like built up/crusty dirt and rust along the bottom edge of the ties?.just like prototypical ones I have seen.
The white strip that can be seen under each sleeper is just a spacer I added to lift the sleeper to fit with the eventual scenery/grade.
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Marc
QuoteWell it took all darn day on Sunday, but I finally got 5 sleepers made for the sectional metal track piece.
Kewl. Those are by far the most realistic models I've seen of pressed sleepers.
Thanks Krusty.
Here some progress pics before I head out for a bike ride.
The next step was to add the scenery material. I wanted to keep it simple, and imply a dry dusty quarry feel.
For the material I used Arizona Rock Company's "River Bottom" material/gravel.
To apply the gravel, a thin coat of the tinted modeling paste was brushed onto the base, which was then sprinkled with the gravel material. the base was then tapped to level/distribute/remove the excess. A pair of tweezers, and my finger were then used to prod and remove the gravel till I achieved the desired appearance. A 60/40 solution of water and Liquitex matte medium were then dripped evenly onto the material using a syringe, and allowed to "wick" through the gravel material till it was all damp.
Once dry the gravel was given a base wash of thinned Tamiya "Medium Grey" (XF-20), this was then followed multiple thinned washes and thinned surface brushing (sim in concept to "dry brushing") of various mixed shades of Tamiya "Deck Tan" (XF-55), and "Buff" (XF-57).
Once dry the area was given a spot dusting of Bragdons "Dust Bowl Tan" powder.
(The coloring in this photo is a bit "spottier" than the actual piece...don't know why.)
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This image of a test sample shows on the left, the Arizona Rock Co material as it look straight from the bag; and on the right after washes with the Tamiya Acrylics and the application of the Bragdon's powder.
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Marc
Being an undersupplied Brit, I don't know what Bragdens is, but I always use oil pastels ground up on fine sandpaper. There's a vast range and it's very cheap. Marc, those tin sleepers (ties) look very convncing, especially with the damage built in. They were very common in UK. Hudsons made them for the kinds of lines where the layout was changed constantly to reach different parts of the brick fields, etc. Had one right near where I used to live. I'd assumed it was disused when driving down the lane next to it (a local knowledge short cut) when this filthy old Lister loco nearly ran me down with a train of Hudson tubs full of tile clay! When I went back for a recce, the damned company had indeed closed down and sold all the tin sleepers and the train for scrap. Doh!
Hector
Marc
Thanks for how to on the screnery your work is just getting better, and not with one faucet of the hobby but in all fields of expertise.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry :-[...but it really is almost all just a new experiment to me.
I took a day-off today, so I got to model :D .
The tractor seat assembly was made using a modified McKenzie Iron & Steel white metal seat casting, formed and drilled brass strip, and Tichy .020 rivets. The seat was colored using Floquil "Roof Brown" (from a spray can), when dry, the seating surface was rubbed with MIG "Gun Metal" (#P231) pigment.
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The exhaust was made using Evergreen .050 and .125 styrene rod. The top/end was drilled out and thinned.
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Coloring and texturing of the exhaust was done using Bragdons "Rust" pigment set, and Plastruct liquid adhesive. A short cut bristle brush is dipped into the liquid cement, and then immediately into the pigment, which is then stippled onto the styrene. This is repeated with slightly varied mixes of color, until the entire part is colored/covered.
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The rails, fastener clips, and bolt heads were now added to the ties.
Originally I had thought that due to different steel types and manufacture, the steel rail would weather to a different rust color/hue than the pressed steel ties/sleepers, but upon careful research of prototype photos, they all showed the rails and sleepers the same color.
The rail was sprayed with Floquil "Roof Brown" (from a spray can). While the paint was still wet, the sides were sprinkled with varied hues of rust toned pigments. The rail pieces were allowed to dry and the excess pigments brushed and blown off. The pigment that remained adhered to the paint, provided a nice subtle texture.
Once the rails were fastened a graphite pencil wes run along the tops to give a worn steel color. Lastly the rails were dusted with some Bragdons "Dust Bowl Tan" pigment.
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The last step was to paint the display base. The top edge was outlined with Tamiya "Flat Black" (XF-2) using an 0/5 brush. The top was then masked, and the rest of the sides were sprayed using Tamiya "Flat Black" from a spray can (TS-). The reason for using the can was for ease of use, and the fact that I wanted a slight satin finish to the base. The Tamiya spray colors always seem to dry slightly satin, so using this save me from having to spray an additional clear satin coat.)
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The last part I have to build is the new fuel tank.....
Marc
Adequate work, Marc. Very adequate. -- Russ
Marvelously adequate !cnU. Marvelously!
John
Damn that is some fine modeling. I am always in awe of the work you and others on this forum can do. Simply amazing.
John
Thanks John...and John,
It's been a fun excercise. I finmally found/cobbled together a gas tank, and new mounts. I need to paint the mounts, and try to figure out what color to paint the tank. ::) :-\
Marc
Well I finally got the new tank done and mounted...whew....now just some more small cab details, and then its ready for pre-dusting with Guache.
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Marc
Marc, work continues to inspire!! I thought GAUCHE was a paint type material how do you "dust" with it? Pat
Hi Pat,
Dusting (or "Pre-dusting", depending on your approach and step sequence) is done with the airbrush. So the Guache will get heavilly thinned with water, and shot at a higher pressure, so to give a very fine mist. I will use a #1/fine needle in the airbrush and build the effect up in thin layers.
This is ususally/most commonly done with thinned acrylics, as Guache has an inherent quality of "re-activating" when any water based paints is applied over it.......however, this same "reactivation issue, can also be used to manipulate the paint on surfaces with a damp/wet brush, to hary effects, and build up material in areas.
The reasons for me trying the Guache, is that it dries to an absolutely dead and dusty flat, and it provides an interesting surface finish/quality for the oil staining step.
Marc
So Marc, if I understand you correctly once the gauche is under the acrylic paint it can be manipulated to create rust and other paint effects? Can this be used as a sort of resist to create chipping paint like rubber cement?
I'll be very anxious to see your results, Pat
Pat, the guache pre-dusting/dusting is the last coat of any water based paint to go on. (otherwise it will reactivate the guache, and potentially cause a mess)...it is fine to reactivate the guache for specific effects......but you dont want it reactivating when you are trying to acheive say "rain marks".
The next/current steps I am doing are:
Rain Marks (with Acrylic, by brush))
Pre Dusting (with Guache, by airbrush)
Dusting with pigments and pigment fixer for built-up areas of pigment (IE. Inside corners and such)
...then if necessary, maybe a final dusting with Guache (by Airbrush)
worn/polished Steel edges/surfaces
Oil Marks
...and lastly one last go around for maybe some "fresh" chips", and some additional "Fresh" rusting...but that will need to be seen.
Marc
Well...I changed my mind about using Guache for the dusting, because I had 3 other projects to do, that I could do at the same time, however, the needed it to be in acrylic.....so I decided to do this one as well.
Light rain marks were done using thinned Tamiya "Deck Tan" (XF-55). Dust/dirt was then done by airbrushing a mixture of 50/50 mixture of Tamiya "Deck Tan" (XF-55) and "Buff" (XF-57)., this was then thinned to a ratio of 80% thinner to 20%paint, and applied in multiple layers at the lower edge of the side and end frames, on horizontal surfaces, and in corners where dust would collect. When dry some the side frames were given a very light, highly diluted pin wash of a Life-Color brown. Lastly a light dusting with mix of "Dust Bowl Brown" and "Ash" Bragdon's powders was applied to various areas and corners.
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Next step will be to add in a few new chips and scratches in the dust areas, and then do the oil staining. Lastly will be adding the remainder of the detail parts.
This is one of the other "drawer orphan" projects that needed dusting, and was done in the same manner (but no rain marks). After dusting, some additional "mapping" was done on the rust areas using Life Color acrylics.
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Marc
Was digging through my hard drive, and came across these images of the initial construcion of this loco....Thought I would post them just for info/reference.
The "tractor" portion of the loco was constructed using heavily modified and reshaped parts from a 1/48 scale Bandai SdKfz.-11 half-track kit, as were the rear transmission and "tractor frame". The firewall was made from sheet styrene, and an HO boxcar brake ratchet mechanism enclosure. The transmission ia part of a Grandt Line O-scale caboose stove, and the floor plate is from an HO Jordan truck kit. The gusset plates came from a Grandt Line Koppel ore car kit.
The loco frame was modified from a Grandt-Line "Battery Mine Loco"
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A new deck for the loco frame was made from sheet styrene embossed with rivets using a NWSL Sensi-press. "Mounts" for the "tractor" were made from cut down Grandt Line D&RGW coupler pockets.
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Smaller details were then added using strip and sheet styrene, a PSC brake lever, brass strip and wire. Additional rivets from Tichey were also added. The white metal tank shape came from an HO parts scrap box.
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Marc
Marc,
what brand is the loco frame ? is it plastic.
Jacq
Jacq,
It is part of a plastic kit from Grandt Line.
It is the kit # 3053 STORAGE BATTERY MINE LOCO KIT-UNPOWERED cost is 15.00 (it is towards the bottom of the page)http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/rolling_stock_and_locos.htm (http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/rolling_stock_and_locos.htm)
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A modeler, "Lutz", over on the German forum ModellBoard is using it to build a small loco inpired by those used by Weherhaueser Lumber Co. in their lumber yards. (in the images below it is still missing the cab, and additional small details)
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Marc
Marc, I used to work in Sontra, Hessen at the old copper mine and a neat little 2ft-ish loco was a roadside display on the corner of the Weissenhassel/Hornel junction. There were other bits and bobs around the area like wagons and such.
I was wondering if you have any knowledge of/references to this line. It's the one line that I could get interested in abroad because I was close to it for 7 months in 2000.
The drive up to the Brodberg was on blue stone. Alledgedly the byproduct of copper smelting. The road to Weissenhassel was also called Kupferstrasse. The ride up the hill on wet blue stuff was a hairy run. I had a Ford Ka (blechh!) on hire and used to thrash the ugly little mother mercilessly up there, but it never let go, to its credit.
BTW, I can recommend Fred's little family run hotel in WH.
Hector
Hector,
Unfortunately I am not familiar with this line...at least that i know of.....but it sounds very interesting. I am sure that somone on one of the German forums is probably familiar with it. I can check if you want.
Marc
Marc, if it's not too much hassle. I wouldn't know where to start and my German is now very rusty. I never was much of a German reader, but I could just manage a kind of chat with a patient person ;)
Hector
Some quick pics of the progress.....pretty much done with this, except for a small lever and it's trim detail at the left side of the firewall. I lost the damn part somewhere, and thus now have to meke one again...Grrrr!
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Marc
A more accurate photo/representaion of the colors. The other 3 Images were shot while overcast without proper white-balance adjustment.
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Marc
Marc, that critter looks just hideous -- possibly the worst fiasco I've ever seen. What an embarrassment ....
Seriously, it is without question one of the finest 1:48 scale internal combustion models I've ever seen. (And I'm OLD!)
Russ
Shucks...thanks... now your just making my cheeks blush! ;D
QuoteShucks...thanks... now your just making my cheeks blush!
What he really means is: you've got until Friday to get the article finished....
Marc
I see you are renewing all kind of things, first it was the side-dump cars now the critter. All of which are outstanding models. So I must ask the questionis the car "Citeron" next to come up? I don't think I ever saw that finished.
Keep the progress coming its good to see youback full time with us.
Jerry
Marc,
if you don't run trains, I do ;D ;D ;D ;D
I don't mind changing my logging project to include a grading scene incorporating
your loco's and tippers. It would set the standard.........
Jacq
Thanks Guys!
Jerry; The Citroen revival is in the works....I am currently trying to wrestle through several issues on it: I think I am going to have to suspend "Reality" for ease of mind and sanity, insofar as as modeling the drivetrain....the real car was front wheel drive....which would be OK if I model the car with four "rail wheels" in the same loc as the road wheels were....but I am sort of feeling that two rear wheels, and a 4-wheel front "truck" look more interesting.....but this means that the model would now be a "rear wheel" drive.....not a huge issue in "pretend model-land", and most modelers would probably not even know/notice....but I need to come to grips with it. The other items are "wheel design"...I need to scratch some wheels that I feel look interesting and appropriate......and I am also playing around with the roof and guard details shown in the photo below...to make sure I feel happy with them.
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Jaqc; I just couldn't do that to you...I would hate to be the one that ruins your proto-realistic logging scene with a flight of fancy rail tractor....especially one that would be so very out of your period timeframe....I would feel too guilty. ;D ;D
Larry; Russ knows better than to expect an article from me...I cant write...I am illegitimate. Besides how am I ever supposed to remeber all the steps and techniques.....I can barely remember what i had for breakfast this morning. ;D
Marc