Received a couple of different Ranger Crackle colors today. My results are fantastic BUT hardly visible without a magnifying glass. Anyone else had the same experience yet? The picture of the Pick Up Truck posted on another thread although a 1:24 scale model is blown up quite a bit and I just have a feeling viewing under normal conditions might confirm what I just said.
Anders ???
Well, I'm curious about that too ... just received a couple of bottles of the stuff yesterday. I'll post my results here when I get a round tuit.
Cheers,
Dallas
I normally use a 5x loupe to inspect my stuff. Sounds perfect.
i just got mine a few minuets ago. Didnt get time to play though.
Pictures Anders?
Anders,
I tried 4 different colors on wood, styrene, and paper, my results are very like you discribe. The "crackle" is way too fine for naked eye viewing especially in a scale like 1:20. The metallic color I tried "Tarnished Brass" gave a very interesting "translucent" effect but with NO crackle and a finish that would be the envy of any brass polisher.
On the white and black colors I tried to highlight the minimal crackling effect with washes of black and white acrylics but all it did was wash the crackle paint off the base material. Perhaps using oils or spraying with a fixative before the washes would have different results but haven't had a chance to try that yet.
Rick
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv62%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2FDSCF9736-vi.jpg&hash=93ccd1ed78e7a3022d30188e56740b00015784eb)
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A few quick tests with the Picket Fence crackle paint. Worked the first time. The application needs to be heavy to get bigger cracks, and the chips will show the thickness.
I tried paint thinner brushed on the wood first , and found the paint flaked off much easier using tape or gentle knife scraping. The smaller boards came from the scrapbox, undercoat unknown. The larger board was brushed with Silverwood first. It is 1/2" wide for reference.
BTW, the Fired Brick color looks more like a Flamingo pink to my eyes. Didn't crack as well as the white either.
I hope others can try it out and share the results.
Chuck, those are some great results . . . yes, I think experimentation is good because this way everyone arrives at their own comfort and taste level.
I really like the results you got so far.
Interesting range of reaction to the paint. It seems (looking back at that other thread) everybody's results have been in the same ballpark, at least with regard to the actual crackling. Yet some find the effect disappointing while others are pleased. Judging from the photos and the comments, I would theorize that people who like to view a model close-up, under magnification, will be happy with the paint. Those who prefer to stand back a little and use the naked eye may be less impressed.
Consistent with my own myopic view of the world, I think Chuck's results and those we saw on the pickup truck bed are superb. (Yes, I used a superlative.) But, like Chuck, I look at models under magnification. And I am in the minority.
The same difference of opinion occurs at model contests where the voting public often prefers exaggeration to realism.
Tentative conclusion: The paint works quite well. Its results are realistically to scale, hence somewhat subtle. It holds very good potential for some of us. Others will look for a different way to express the effect they have in mind. Ya can't please everyone.
Russ
So true, so true, but in the meantime we have yet another technique in the ole bag of trick or arsenal.
Hi Guys
woven into this thread is one of the best bits of model building advice you will ever get.
Unless you look at your models with high magnification and take close-up photographs before the model is finished and then again when it is finished (or so we think) you will not get the best from your model building. You will be amazed how much there is still to do on the model to reach perfection after it is finished and we stand back to look at the photo's and have seen it under 10 magnification.
this crackle paint has legs and indeed will work well on any woodwork. the suppliers will be delighted to see a spike in sales following our dialogue on the subject.
have fun, buy a good maginfying glass and above all stay cool
Bernard
I wonder if the cracked paint can be made durable with some kind of clear protective coat?
Finally had some results that are visible without magnification. As stated by Chuck - the thicker coat the larger cracks. However the larger cracks are very, very fragile. I used a fixative that are designed for artists pastel work on paper. Great improvement but you still have to be a bit carefull when touching the surface of the boards. Also mixed in some black to the Fired Brick color and got a nice dark red color that worked just fine.
Anders ;D
Please post a photo when you have time. -- Russ
Russ........will do! Won´t be much different from what you already have seen. Setting up the equipment tomorrow for a photo session of various modeling projects. Have to get your samples ready as well!
Anders ::)
Not really sure what to say about these paints. In my scale 1/87 I´m only pleased with the short board in the middle leaning against the cap. That board has the thinnest layer of paint but the cracks are difficult to see under the naked eye. The other boards are "too much" in my opinion. I put them up against a 1/87 shed so they can be viewed close to scale. Guess I´m in the wrong scale.... >:(
By the way has anyone seen a wall with these kind of cracks? Myself I have only seen window frames and rafters.
Anders ???
Hey I was a little late to the "Ranger Rick" topic, but I went on line and found "Tim Holt" products, and then I saw they were for the scrap bookers, so I called my local scrap book store , "Archiver's" and they had all of his products in stock. I was surprised how thick it is? So on my first attempt I tried to smooth it out, and as you can see from my results it came out as peeling paint but not cracked. On my first attempt I put paint thinner down first Ala Chuck Doan, and it did peel easily, on my second attempt I didn't use the thinner and I let it dry over night , I only tried to peel it with scotch tape sparingly , but I like the results, I did cup my 1 x 12 1:48 boards though? Now I can have peeling and chipped as well as cracked paint. Thanks for who ever came up with this method, now I can chip and crack and peel like Chuck! I did use Chuck's method for preparing the boards they have 5-8 coats of Silver wood sanded lightly before each application, I didn't use weathering powder like Chuck, but I do plan to use a wash of artists oils to give it a second color and more aging and weathering, more to come.
Gil
Peeling more than Potatoes in Boise
The fact that the cracking is not so perceptible without magnification may well be a blessing to those in the smaller scales. I'm always worried that just about anything I do in 1/87 that can't actually be measured may be too large for the scale.
I like both Chuck's and Ander's results. Nice little shed on the lower photo there by the way.
The more I see of this stuff the better I like it. Each of you has gotten excellent results with apparently minimal effort. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on November 24, 2010, 04:00:56 PM
The more I see of this stuff the better I like it. Each of you has gotten excellent results with apparently minimal effort. -- Russ
" excellent results with minimal effort" ? That is not the sort of language that we like to hear around here . We want to hear about the long protracted herculean efforts of trial and error required to achieve barely passable results which can then be adopted by Chuck and turned around to produce spectacularly realistic results .
Maximum results with minimum effort ? Pah , heresy , I say .
Nick
( I must get some of this new wonder paint)
I need to get some of this also. (Nick if you have trouble let me know)
I keep wondering if the boards were coated with a sealer, may be even a gloss clear if the cracking/crazing would be even more prevalent? Didnt Marc mention this (on another thread for something similar)?
Has anyone tried?..
Good to see everyone having / show3ing their results.
-Marty
If you apply it thick it comes out perfect if you want crackle, if you want chipping use scotch tape after it looks dry, about 30 minuets in my case. Wait overnight and it is harder to chip but looks very realistic. The crackle is subtle from the naked eye, but upon close inspection it is b-e-a-u-t-ful. I have been using paint thinner before the application to make it easier to chip that's what I want, and I thinned some last night with water and it worked great and was more uniform in thickness and it didn't cup my boards as bad. Today after my tryptophan nap I plan to try sealer and artist oil washes for more color and depth, I'll send pictures when I awake from my coma
Gil
Happy big bird day and sweet Potato's
Gil, if you can, shoot photos of the steps and the results. -- Russ
Did a test today with the white picket fence stuff .. using diff under coats. The wood 'boards' are "Skinny Sticks" .. craft sticks from WalMart .. .285" wide
Ed --
Cool ... informative ... thanks for testing, labeling (quite clearly) and posting!
Cheers,
Dallas
Normally I model by a sort of modified Pareto principle. Since I'm not a contest modeler and I'd like to have a modestly functional layout within my remaining lifespan, I can accept a 90 percent result for about 40 percent of the effort. For this reason, I try to avoid obsessive navel-gazing in favor of completing models (not that I've been completely successful in this). The "good enough" rule works for me, but then again my standards are higher than average and I try to observe subtleties, so my "good enough" is pretty decent if I do say so myself. The point of this hagiographic preamble is that I'm trying to conceptualize what an acceptable "cracked paint" result in HO would be.
The first thing that needs to be determined is the average size range for real-life paint chips. Offhand I'd guess something like 1/4" to 1", but that would need to be field verified.
The second step is to determine an appropriate scale resolution. Personally, I see no point in wasting precious time modeling details too small to be seen under normal viewing conditions, but certain details that might fall outside this parameter might add value to a foreground model if slightly exaggerated-- for truly minute details in a small scale like HO, I think a factor of 50% over scale might be acceptable, but remember I'm talking out my ass here and this is all speculation pending review.
Based on my cocktail napkin calculations, a "scale" HO paint chip would be approximately .003" to .01" in actual size, and a based on my exaggeration-for-the-sake-of-visibility factor, a size range of .005" to .015" might be acceptable.
My question for the crackle paint experimenters is "what size paint chips are you able to get?"
Quote from: gin sot on November 26, 2010, 08:51:03 AM
My question for the crackle paint experimenters is "what size paint chips are you able to get?"
Ed's photo above has sticks that are .285" wide ... print the photo to actual size and you can measure those and "see" if you can see them. ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Quote from: gin sot on November 26, 2010, 08:51:03 AM
Normally I model by a sort of modified Pareto principle. Since I'm not a contest modeler and I'd like to have a modestly functional layout within my remaining lifespan, I can accept a 90 percent result for about 40 percent of the effort. For this reason, I try to avoid obsessive navel-gazing in favor of completing models (not that I've been completely successful in this). The "good enough" rule works for me, but then again my standards are higher than average and I try to observe subtleties, so my "good enough" is pretty decent if I do say so myself. The point of this hagiographic preamble is that I'm trying to conceptualize what an acceptable "cracked paint" result in HO would be.
The first thing that needs to be determined is the average size range for real-life paint chips. Offhand I'd guess something like 1/4" to 1", but that would need to be field verified.
The second step is to determine an appropriate scale resolution. Personally, I see no point in wasting precious time modeling details too small to be seen under normal viewing conditions, but certain details that might fall outside this parameter might add value to a foreground model if slightly exaggerated-- for truly minute details in a small scale like HO, I think a factor of 50% over scale might be acceptable, but remember I'm talking out my ass here and this is all speculation pending review.
Based on my cocktail napkin calculations, a "scale" HO paint chip would be approximately .003" to .01" in actual size, and a based on my exaggeration-for-the-sake-of-visibility factor, a size range of .005" to .015" might be acceptable.
My question for the crackle paint experimenters is "what size paint chips are you able to get?"
Gin sot.......These are the smallest cracks I have been able to get. The boards are 10" wide in 1/87 scale. Added a paint brush and a couple of nails for good measure.
Anders ;D
That looks darn fine to me!
Off to the store!
-marty
The two boards on the right seem to show grain-influenced paint chipping, an excellent effect. What, if anything, did you do differently on these two?
Dave.....probably digged a little deeper with an x-acto knife and pin before I put on the paint. Also removed a bit more paint with scoth tape. How do you like your paint brush? ;D ??? ;D
Quote from: Junior on November 27, 2010, 09:55:41 AM
Dave.....probably digged a little deeper with an x-acto knife and pin before I put on the paint. Also removed a bit more paint with scoth tape. How do you like your paint brush? ;D ??? ;D
Gees, I wish you guys would remember to clean those brushes! ;)
Now you're talkin', Anders. If it looks good in HO scale, it will look good anywhere; and your boards look good. Watch out, Professor Doan, the boys are catchin' up to ya! -- Russ
I fully agree, Russ. From what I've seen of Anders' HO modelling, I think he is already a member of the dream team.
Anders --
Thanks for posting your photos and notes! Looking good ...
Cheers,
Dallas
I just tried a couple on different things. First I scraped off a lot on the thin paint on the poor boards from my first attempt and took it down to bare wood (mine has five coats of silver wood stain as a base) then I reapplied another coat over the entire surface where there was paint and no paint. I let it dry for about two hours under a hot light and then lightly removed paint with scotch tape only, which came off uniformly and very easily.
Second on my initial pieces that were cracked perfectly, I used a wash of Payne's Grey and white artist oils mixed equally and then diluted with thinner. I wiped on straight thinner first and then the color, and then dabbed up the excess. The Payne's grey is a perfect aging compliment for my silver wood and it toned down the white "picket fence" color. I will shoot a picture when the sun comes back to the 43 parallel! Hopefully by tomorrow????, the green color I am using "peeled paint" has to much yellow in it I used a wash of raw umber , but that wasn't enough, I'll have to find another "filter" to change the color. Pic's to come
Gil
In exile above the 43 Parallel
It looks like many of you are taking off with this product, which makes Cranky ultra and extra happy. Now, if I am still in time to buy stock at RANGER INC. ;D
Cranky.....thanks very much for posting in the first place. I´m having a great time with these paints. Experimented a bit more over the weekend and is really pleased now.
Thanks again,
Anders ;D ;D ;D
Scoth tape? Did some sthick to your tounge? ;D Looks good Anders, and seems reasonable for HO.
Thanks for the comparison pic Ed and Gil.
Anders, I have seen entire walls crackled, but often mixed with normal peeling. Probably common on doors and windows as these were likely re-painted more often.
If you have several structures or fences, etc in one scene, it is probably unlikely they would all peel the same.
Chuck....thanks for the info. Yes I was a bit concerned about a whole wall but your idea about mixing the boards is great. Yes, rafters, doors and window frames are quite common with heavy crackling I only have to look at my own house...ha! Just kidding...!
Anders :o :o
Cranky! All ways invest before releasing sensitive information, that's what Wall Street does! But thanks for the info, I love the stuff, I plan to keep experimenting! Maybe you should consider you own line of paint supplies? I would buy them just for the logo!
What about a book or a video?
Thanks
Gil
A nice crackle wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kelleyabeck/5203573460/in/pool-ruraldecay
Excellent - outstanding picture came in very handy for my next build........ :o ;D :o
Anders
Yeah, me too!
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on November 28, 2010, 05:18:38 PM
I just tried a couple on different things. First I scraped off a lot on the thin paint on the poor boards from my first attempt and took it down to bare wood (mine has five coats of silver wood stain as a base) then I reapplied another coat over the entire surface where there was paint and no paint. I let it dry for about two hours under a hot light and then lightly removed paint with scotch tape only, which came off uniformly and very easily.
Second on my initial pieces that were cracked perfectly, I used a wash of Payne's Grey and white artist oils mixed equally and then diluted with thinner. I wiped on straight thinner first and then the color, and then dabbed up the excess. The Payne's grey is a perfect aging compliment for my silver wood and it toned down the white "picket fence" color. I will shoot a picture when the sun comes back to the 43 parallel! Hopefully by tomorrow????, the green color I am using "peeled paint" has to much yellow in it I used a wash of raw umber , but that wasn't enough, I'll have to find another "filter" to change the color. Pic's to come
Gil
In exile above the 43 Parallel
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Sorry Marc, but all I have here is SNOW! dark gloomy and Snow
Maybe tomorrow ??? Unless theres a break, but since I woke up this morning, SNOW, big fluffy flakes, and no SUN, well it's out there somewhere, I just can't see it :-\ :'( ::) ;)
Gil
In Sunny western Idaho, where we get 300 days of sun, todays not one of them and tomorrow looks iffy
Gil, Pictures would be nice.....on your experiment with the crackle paint?? Craig
More real world:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/0olong/26136844/
http://images43.fotki.com/v504/filec7B0/04e7a/7/777399/2992336/1123288976_7eaaa0916a_b.jpg
We finally had some sun today, cloud or snow covered as it was? Here's the best shot I could get and it was cold outside. I used one application of Payne's Grey over the "Picket fence and the "peeling paint" the green color is a very light or thin application and the white is a perfect full application. I do not like the green color and plan to find another, also I found out there is a clear crackle color, and I wonder what that will do?
Gil
The white turned out very, very well. I'm glad you finally quit whining and went outside and suffered for us. You probably didn't even have to wear a sweatshirt. -- Russ
No I had on a sweat shirt and hot potatoes in my pocket to keep my hands warm! ::)
Yes I like the white! That Payne's grey works great! There are other colors out there that I want to try?
Gil
In exile in Boise Idaho
I still haven't tried the samples that I've got ... but *suspect* that the white and off-white paints could be colored (reverse tinting) with acrylic inks and/or paints ... will try all this after the HO-HO-HO stuff is done.
Cheers,
Dallas
Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 03, 2010, 09:09:03 AM
More real world:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/0olong/26136844/
http://images43.fotki.com/v504/filec7B0/04e7a/7/777399/2992336/1123288976_7eaaa0916a_b.jpg
Chuck....that last one is great! Thanks.
Anders ;D
PS. Great looking boards, Gil ::)
The word must be out; I went to Michaels's to get some and they were cleaned out!
I guess being in exile in Idaho has it's advantages......well ONE.
-Marty
Hey Marty we have plenty here in sunny balmy south western Idaho! 8)
Would you like me to send you some? ::)It's easy to get around here in "Friendly, pleasant, easy going "Boise" no pushing or shoving, heck people will even hold the door open for you and help you across the icy parking lot , yep it's true :o
Plus don't worry about me being stuck in the long line at the post office, there's no pushing or shoving there either, the lines are always short, heck there's only 1700 people in Star Idaho ;D
Glad to help you out buddy, it's the Idaho way. ;)
Gil
aka MPH
Yeah but, as you pointed out, you need to stuff hot potatoes in your pockets to keep warm! -- Russ
No worries we just eat them for lunch! :o
Gil
AKA MPH
I flew into Bosie, Idaho once to attend an Army school. Looking out the window just before landing I was like ... "WTH? Looks like I'm landing in the Mojave!" .. :) ... plus .. while driving around town .. think someone stole all the road signs .. !!
And some of Idaho looks like it came out of a Walther's catalog. :)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Wallace_Idaho.JPG (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Wallace_Idaho.JPG)
Notice the bricks in that photo. They are obviously a century old yet the buildings' surfaces are pretty flat and the bricks themselves not very distressed.
Some models we create, with their missing bricks, crumbling sections, and mottled appearance look pretty stunning. But they seem to be exceptions to the usual hundred year old brickwork. If anybody wants examples, let me know and I'll post some shots on a new thread.
Russ
Wallace Idaho is a great little town, it's the gateway to Burke Idaho, it's in a very narrow valley, more like a crevasse, it's pretty, quite, and quaint, but when it snows! Wow look out! I have been there in a blizzard, man that's a lot of snow! :o
Idaho has a lot of quaint towns and most of any new buildings are built with brick and stone to match the existing buildings, it's very nice not a lot on Mc-Mansions
Yes Boise is at the end of the Mojave Desert! I would have never believed it, until I saw a historical marker on 395 near Independence, California ???
Gil
Wow, those are some beautiful buildings in that little town!
Thanks for the pic, Gil, I was curious what the green paint looked like.
Pretty "exorcist" like! :o Or pea soup,color it's really hard to give it a deeper base color, I think I will under coat it with another paint color first and then crackle with "pealing paint" color I will show results
Gil
Here is a link to some allley photos taken in Wallace. I loved the trip up into Burke.
http://picasaweb.google.com/darrylhuffman/IdahoIn2004#5125550782353798514
Almost all the photos after the one in the link were taken up the road into Burke.
Thanks for the nice set of photos, Darryl.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Those are some great photos .. I've already shared with a friend
Darryl, I saved all of your brick wall photos to my "Brick Stuff" folder. Excellent reference source!
Two things struck me:
First, only one photo shows the wall from a perspective typical of how we would view a model with a low power magnifying glass. The overall texture looks pretty smooth; very few bricks either above or below the "surface". That is consistent with the earlier photos of Burke even though they show the front of the buildings where the mason might have tried to be more careful.
Second, One photo shows what initially seems to be rough brickwork but, upon examination, what we are seeing are courses where some mortar fell out. The angle of the sun casts shadows that make the wall appear to have more brick face surface texture than it actually has.
The point of those observations? Color variation is a primary factor in creating realistic bricks. The texture of a typical plastic or plaster wall should be adequate if we pay careful attention to the mortar depth. Even on those century old walls, I saw few broken bricks. In other words, the key to recreating accurate "typical" brickwork is subtlety. This is something that gradually has been dawning on me after decades of looking more at models than actual buildings.
The attached artwork shows what I originally thought might represent newer brick. It actually would be accurate for century old brick (especially with some good 3-D mortar).
Russ
Tried my local Michaels in SoCal and they'd never heard of Ranger paints. Any other suggestions?
-Younger
I had the same result. I even had a printed page from thier website showing the paints.
I bought some on Amazon.
Quote from: Younger on December 09, 2010, 06:53:27 AM
Tried my local Michaels in SoCal and they'd never heard of Ranger paints. Any other suggestions?
-Younger
I found a whole bunch of the paint at my Michaels. It wasn't with the art stuff .. but over where the scrapbooking, paper area is. The Ranger paint is part of somekinda stamp-pad art .. right in the area of stickers etc.
Thanks, guys. I'll try the scrapbooking side, the clerks I asked had no idea, but then that's usually the case. If not, Chuck, I'll try Amazon.
-Younger
Finally made it to Michael's tonight to pick up a reindeer nose for the car, to go with the antlers (just to irritate Marc... ::) - pictures after the village Christmas parade tomorrow on Facebook.) and picked up an assortment of the crackle paint in the scrapbook section. I hate going in to Michael's, it's always such a mess, crafty crap and middle-aged craft ladies pushing and shoving everywhere, but usually end up finding what I'm after in the most illogical of places. Definitely a place that's worth taking the trouble to explore, if you can get around the craft ladies. Forget asking the staff, they're all working to capacity just to stay awake. Anyway, probably won't have time to work with it until after the holidays but certainly looking forward to it... results I've seen posted here have been encouraging.
Paul
Paul, you will have a great time with those paints well worth the struggle with those ladies!
Anders ;D
Younger~
Say these words when you go back to Michaels! "Tim Holt" scrapbooking supplies! you have to speak the "Craft Store" lingo ;D
If you still cant find it I will send you some or bring it to you in a few days, what colors do you want ??
Paul! I love it ( just to irritate Marc... ) ;D ;D :o
Gil
And thanks to Gil, here's the website:
http://www.timholtz.com/cracklepaint.htm
-Younger
Went back to Michaels yesterday, and sure enough, there they were, in the scrapbook session. Picked up white and green to play with.
-Younger
Yep, you have to look really good in the scrapbook section. I found mine on the bottom shelf in the corner for the stamping area. I think if you tell the employees you are looking for "Distress" paints they would be more familiar than "Ranger."
I wasn't too thrilled with the color choices; been playing around with the "picket fence" white, but the green looked like mix of baby puke and Mountain Dew green. :-\
What more could you ask from a color~
Gil
This is from over on the MIG forum.....a guy posted this in the crackle thread there, to show what he uses it for (it's a 28mm figure)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pixelgod.net%2Ffotos%2Fwarhammer%2Fqueenofgears.jpg&hash=1b4a63c825fa325ed45ab9619463468434e6e8bc)
M
Man she took his head and his watch gears. Brutal!
Interesting use for the base though.
I finally gave in and drank the koolaid. Well, I bought the koolaid at least. Same deal here in Florida-- it's buried on a tiny shelf in the scrapbooking section at Michael's, with a bunch of bubble-pack crap dangling in front of it, I really had to look. Had a half-price coupon, though.
I like that mud flat effect, that might just have a place in the toolbox.
Addendum, six and a half hours later:
Looks like a viable way to get chipped paint in HO scale. However, the preliminary results appear to indicate that HO scale paint chips are below the visual threshold at a typical viewing distance. Might be useful for a contest diorama model intended for intense close-range scrutiny, but for the most part I'm probably gonna stick with my usual methods. If I modeled in 1/4" or 1/2" scale, this would probably become a standard technique.
These examples using the paint were posted on the MIG Forum; it is a current diorama project by Per Olav Lund. Scale is 1/35.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv244%2Flinjegods%2FIMG_0650.jpg&hash=79bcddc52bcdddd5c9781c6bba690cb7d58f29f7)
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv244%2Flinjegods%2FIMG_0658.jpg&hash=dc5f117e51db46a6ee5354585aee9affaf318042)
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Marc
Marc ,
I had a look at the MIG Forum but couldn't find the Per Olav thread of this build . Obviously I was looking in the wrong place so could you give us a bit of help finding it . Ta . I am interested in finding out what he has been using for his pantiles . Would they be the ones that you showed us on the Juweela website ? They look like just the sort of thing I would like to use on the building I am working on at the moment .
Thanks ,
Nick
Nick, it was in the paint techniqes section under Crackle you world or something like that.
Nick you find it toward bottom of this page http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8513&start=30
and his origonal thread is here http://www.little-norway.org/forum/index.php?topic=367.0
Thanks , Chuck and Gordon for your help . Per answers my question in his post . Yes , the roof tiles are made by Juweela .
Nick
That was a rather worthwhile post, Marc. And thanks for the follow up links, guys. This stuff is inspirational. -- Russ
That Dog House on Per Olav Lund's Diorama is Cool ;) nice touch. And the crackle paint and weathering is Spot On.
Yeah, the dog house is great!
I got a bottle of the white stuff, it has the consistency of pudding. Is that normal or has it dried up a little in the bottle? Also I don't really get a nice crackle effect unless its brushed on pretty thick. ???
Does anyone know of an additive to make paint shrink and crack as it dries? I'm thinking we could make our own crackle paints, more suitable for scale model building. This stuff seems a little too "arts n' crafts."
Dave
I finally found some of the Ranger Crackle paints and played with them.
Using wood I had stained with shoe dye/alcohol, I got very little effect with the Ranger paints.
I found I got the result I was looking for by first sealing the stripwood by painting the stripwood with a dark raw umber acrylic paint and then letting it dry.
I then applied Delta Ceramcoat's Crackle, not the Ranger, but the usual crackle finishes available at Michaels.
Letting that coat dry for 15 minutes and then applying the Ranger Crackle gave me great results.
Quote from: DaKra on January 16, 2011, 11:10:17 AM
I got a bottle of the white stuff, it has the consistency of pudding. Is that normal or has it dried up a little in the bottle? Also I don't really get a nice crackle effect unless its brushed on pretty thick. ???
Does anyone know of an additive to make paint shrink and crack as it dries? I'm thinking we could make our own crackle paints, more suitable for scale model building. This stuff seems a little too "arts n' crafts."
Dave
I received one bottle that had dried up a bit - just add water and it will be fine. It seems that there are many different results on these pages and it´s really difficult to tell why. After MANY experiments I now have in my opinion excellent results on wood, paper and styrene. Dave, try and coat with one dilluted layer and then continue gradually with less water until you have the desired effect.
Anders ;D
A nice mix of effects (view larger size)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/srichardimages/5339172382/in/pool-dwd
I will have to experiment with the Rangle paints.
I have found that when using the hair spray chipped paint technique, if you go a little overboard with your initial hairspray application, wait 10 minutes and airbrush your acrylic color.
Then blowdry to speed up the drying of the paint, I get a fine crackle each time.
This is a pice of wood, covered with Gesso, sanded and carved up to be used as a foundation for an over hang. This is how it first looked when dry. Once you mess it up some more it looks pretty convincing.
Also experimenting with some paint/detail effects for the project I have going. This is a bit less than a 12"/30cm wide board in 1/35 scale.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg707.imageshack.us%2Fimg707%2F6938%2Fboardo.jpg&hash=5e69ca55238f37287912b1c3aef634d7158d19ff)
Again...just beautiful. Nice touch with the twisted piece of metal.
Anders ;D
I usually model in the era, so most things are not heavily weathered. The paint is fresh and the corrugated metal is only lightly rusty and dirty. Some rust of course but crackling paint and putty?
But.... am currently building very old stone and wooden structures in 1/48 so need to figure out this crackling paint stuff. I am not all that good at heavy weathering. So I bought Martha Stewart crackle and fine crackle at Michaels but they are clear transparent and, after many tries on varying surfaces, have not gotten it to crackle barely/hardly at all, and it drys semi-glossy and clear. The examples on line are of women painting it on doll and bird houses, jewelry chests, etc.
Perhaps the trick is to use this Ranger paint so another trip to Michaels in the scrapbooking supplies you say.
I have traditionally used rubber cement, sometimes thinned, dabbed and nearly dry brushed on wood and metal. Then dry brushed paint over top. Then a rubber cement pick-up, knife, wire brush, etc. to remove just some of it. Then staining, although sometimes stain the wood before the rubber cement. Leaves a peeling rather than crackling. Many old and/or abandoned farm houses and barns, sheds, etc. around here for reference.
Max muddling madly in Michigan
The results of Chuck Doan are amazing and I wanna do it too.
I´m not familiar with the Martha Stewart paints only the cook books ;D! I think another trip to Michael´s would do it. The Ranger paints require a little practicing but gives good results in my opinion.
Anders
thinning and one stroke work best in my opinion, two many strokes clumps up
Just try it! You'll like it :- )_)MPH
I don't know if this has been discussed here but some non scale modellers use Elmer glue to make crackle paint, here's one example:
http://www.ehow.com/how_12049646_diy-crackle-paint-elmers-glue.html
I'm sure this isn't news to anyone but in looking recently for the Ranger Crackle paints to experiment with it looks like they may be discontinued. If this is the case are there some alternatives that are giving the same fine detail?
Thanks
-Michael
Michael.
Lots of it on Amazon.com
If you can't find a color that you are after, you can buy a color like linen, and then use a small amount of acrylic ink to tint it. Do not use too much ink, or you will change the chemical qualities of the crackle paint.
(Fence pickets are laser cut pieces from LSG Laser Kits...so grain texture on unpainted boards is harder to show/create, for some effects...and nail holes are part of the kit)
Nice to see you posting something again!
Lets not get our hopes up quite yet. ;)