Has anyone got any photos of a 1929 Ford Model A moving van? Or recommendations what websites or forums to go looking for this sort of thing. I'm converting a Jordan RR Express truck to a small moving van for a diorama.
Thanks
Dave
Hi Dave,
not exactly what you are looking for and pretty poor shots but took pics of this moving truck undergoing restoration at Old Rhinebeck Airfield a couple of weeks ago. May be of some use to you
Regards
James
last one...
James
Dave --
If you have the patience, try some more generic searches like "1929 Ford truck" and "Ford moving van", etc ... the latter produced this page:
http://www.fordstorage.com/ford/history.php
Not quite the same body, but interesting perhaps ... enlargements here:
http://www.fordstorage.com/ford/images/oldtimer1.jpg
http://www.fordstorage.com/ford/images/oldtimer2.jpg
Also, this page contains the same photo you posted ... I looked briefly to see if I could find clues to take it elsewhere ... you might want to see if there's any other hints you could follow:
http://spoonercentral.com/klhspottoo/George.html
And, again, if you have the patience, more generic image searches: "antique moving truck (or van)" ... "vintage moving truck (or van)" ... "early moving truck" ... "old moving truck" ... etc. try each with truck or van ...
Quick attempt at some of those ... "old moving van" produced the most likely leads ... including this:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d34M3RnW2Zoge6U3yVIzvw
Also might want to try searching Flickr, PhotoBucket, Picasa, etc
Good luck!
Dallas
Dave:
Here are a few samples from Shorpy (http://www.shorpy.com/). Probably not exactly what you're looking for but may give you some ideas. Could be well worth running a truck search at Shorpy as well.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Froughboy.net%2Fimgs%2FTrucks%2FGuarantyStorageTruck1928Sm.jpg&hash=103ac6cb785f31140d3b99112fa578e2ce1ef74e)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Froughboy.net%2Fimgs%2FTrucks%2FHolmesBakeryTruck1923Sm.jpg&hash=43d8dd3eac4a42d2b87337064a258976ee1d415c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Froughboy.net%2Fimgs%2FTrucks%2FJustWonderfulTruck1925Sm.jpg&hash=cf99f5a24c46a336859af5eec4b911d0a263836c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Froughboy.net%2Fimgs%2FTrucks%2FMattressTruck1925Sm.jpg&hash=fb8bc4e50f0fd4e4c7084549b069924209954015)
Judging by the scratches on the side of the Guaranty Storage Truck, I'd say it was driven by some latter-day U-haul drivers... ;)
Paul
Here's a source for quite a few old moving trucks
http://www.sessions-station.com/Old%20Trucks/index.html
Here's personal favorite
Thanks everyone for the leads so far. You gotta love the old sign painter's art, those old trucking company signs had personality and warmth.
I cobbled together a drawing. I used a couple of fonts from Dafont.com, but had to modify them a little. Paul if you have a font for these typical hand painted 1930s-50s truck letters, I could sure use it.
Just need to figure out how the back doors should look and I'll start cutting the parts out for the modification to the Jordan truck.
The logo in the initial photo works really well for me, since the company location fits the diorama location perfectly. And I know better than to try to make up a sign out of thin air!
Nice, Dave!
I would use paper prints for the model rather than decals, since you are dealing with simple shapes.
And check the "O" on "Moving". Yours is too perfect, the original sign painter's is a little odd. He was most likely thinking of donuts when he painted his "O", but that is the true charm of old sign painting. Otherwise pretty good.
Thanks, I enjoy a good nitpick when its an easy fix! :D You're right, using fonts "out of the box" can end up looking too perfect.
I fudged the back using elements from the front.
Are you planning on printing out and using the artwork as the sides of the truck?
-Marty
Hey Marty
The artwork is for both the laser parts, and the decal graphics. I start all my models with a graphic like this, then I just cut and paste what I need from it when I design the individual parts and decals.
I thought about making the truck body from pre printed paper, the problem for me is making it seamless where the pieces join. So I'll laser cut the body, and apply decals.
Here's a test shot of the body parts. Needs a little tweaking here and there, but everything fits.
Dave
The body shape looks perfect. I think decals would be the best solution for the type....you could cut the clear film to fit perfectly inside each panel section, that way you would not have to worry as much about the decal edges. If this were 1/32-32 you could laser cut the type out of a thin masking film...like the Eduard insignia & letter masks, and the airbrush the color/letters.
Marc
Dave --
That looks great! I kinda hope you're not planning to use primary yellow and red on the actual model though ... seems a bit too intense. Suggest you shift the yellow toward a tan-ish or creamy yellow and the red toward a brownish or oxide red. Even if the real thing was painted in brilliant colors, using them on a model tends to create a toy-like appearance ... but disregard at will ... you've obviously got things going in a good direction.
Short version: add a touch of an earth color (along the lines of Vallejo "Dirt") to each of the colors and it'll look better ... doesn't have to be a major shift, just not pure primary colors.
Cheers,
Dallas
Right on the colors. As a military modeler who strayed into civilian models, my palette is made up of Tamiya Luftwaffe and Panzer colors. :) So the body will be a shade of RAL 8020 Sand. But I may cheer it up slightly with some signal yellow. Yes, the red will be darker, calls too much attention to itself as is.
My concern about the red area is its actually a cloth panel. (I suppose that was so the truck side could be rented out as billboard, by swapping the panels? Or maybe it was padding for the big flat stuff they secured to the shelves on the sides?) Shoud I simulate the cloth area, or keep it simple and just pretend its painted on metal? This truck is just a prop in diorama, so I can justify having an upright piano parked in the street ;D don't want to get too involved with it.
Dang we're early risers on this forum :o
Quote from: DaKra on October 01, 2010, 02:58:05 AM
<snip>
Dang we're early risers on this forum :o
I was awakened by my cat. His dish was empty. I'm also an early morning caffeine addict .. I swear .. 100% Columbian looks and smells like candy :)
I am worried that the cloth sides will always appear like bad craftsmanship in this scale. Any kind of textile texture will be out of scale. If you go for cloth, I would get some good take out food for lunch and turn the aluminum tray into a tarp and have decals on it.
But if you want to go with the easier way, just pretend it's sheet metal and print that thing on paper with a few thinned out white coats of semi gloss to get a shine and same light fading.
Yeah textiles are a problem in miniature. Even the 1/6 scale doll, uh, I mean action figure ;D guys have trouble getting cloth to look and act like scale cloth. 2 part epoxy putty is my choice for tarps and stuff like this. Did a quick test on the test parts, it might look OK. I'll decide after I see it with the decal on. Right on the fading, that will help it look more like cloth.
That looks pretty good, but brings up another question: If the sides of the truck have those tarp covers, why wouldn't the back side look similar? Don't mean to throw you off. Just wondering.
I'm figuring the cloth panels are padding for the stuff they'd carry on the shelf rails, like bedposts and table tops. Putting a similar load on the doors in back would stress out the hinges fast, specially going over cobblestones etc. The brackets for the side rails are in line with the truck bed, so plenty strong. Don't think they're on the rear doors. That said, the back upper part of the doors could well be a drop down tarp, with a fold down door on the bottom.
However, rest assured no matter which way I build it, Murphy's Law says after I finish the model, I will find the missing research material, and it will prove I did it the wrong way. :-\
Quote from: chester on September 29, 2010, 05:26:03 PM
Here's a source for quite a few old moving trucks
http://www.sessions-station.com/Old%20Trucks/index.html
Here's personal favorite
I see this truck you like also has the bottom rail and cloth panel above it, so now I'm pretty sure its padding for oversized flat stuff.
update. Moved the wheelbase a little closer together, and the body forward, to better match the snub nose appearance of the vehicle in the photo.
Awww ... look at the little-bitty truck ... it's so cute! ;D
Coming along nicely ...
Dallas
This is exciting Dave. You can't imagine how I've been wanting more fine details in this scale and you are providing us with a bunch. I will most definitely be looking forward to a kit of this.
I'd have to say that decals are the way to go as well but dry transfers would be my choice.
Looking good. Nice work on the "cloth" sides.
The "canvas" looks great! especially in HO! :o
-Marty
hey Chester, do you have experience making dry transfers? I would love to know how to do these. Ink Jet decals have some drawbacks mainly the absence of white.
I don't think I can make a kit out of this particular vehicle, because it requires too much chopping up Jordan parts and putty filler work. But the experiment has given me really some good ideas for HO scale vehicle aftermarket parts.
Small update, I made the top using the kit roof plus epoxy putty. There is a raised lip around the lower edge of the top. That is a paper strip cut with a razor blade, back filled with CA. I actually still cut some things by hand. :)
Dave
I have run across a product that allows a laser printer to do dry transfers but not an ink jet. I will try to find the info. And we'll be waiting a bit more to be able to print white at home affordably. I understand that this would be a tough kit to put together but as you say the idea was born.
I thought white decal backing was readily available. One source I recall is Micro-Mark but others offer it, too. -- Russ
Russ
The problem with white decal backing is the entire film is white. In theory I can use it to make individual white letters, then color fill the background to match the model. In practice, it won't match. The other problem is all the white film I've used has a peculiar tendency to stretch, warp and cling to itself. Its not like the usual decal film.
There are some decal makers online who offer custom decal work, including white pigments. Last I checked, some were quite reasonable, but I've not tried any yet.
Dave
I think you can get away with printing on paper for this one. Print on good photopaper in high resolution, seal with dullcote, sand down and glue it on with white glue.
- or just put this aside and work on your brick projects instead ;) ;D
One of my advertisers, Jeff Damerst at Shawmut Car Shops, can print white on clear. He has a website or you can phone him; the number is in the ad. If you decide to go that route, Jeff does good, clean work. -- Russ
The ability to print white exists with the Alps printer of course. But I would like, as Dave, to be able to do dry transfers with a PC printer. There's a lot of good clear decal paper out there but the edges of water slide decals have always been a problem for me when weathering.
And I agree Dave, the white decal paper is thick and rubbery. They simply put a white coating on clear paper which adds to it's thickness.
here's the little guy in primer.
Pretty awesome for O scale, but in HO ! ! ! :o ;D
The tarp turned out very nice. Those grey primer jobs are such exciting moment when a model turns from a cluster of different components into one harmonic piece.
I like primer phase, too. But the finishing work makes me a little apprehensive. Potential to ruin a lot of work.
Here's the little junkmobile in paint and decals and preliminary weathering. I weathered a bit before the decals, after thinking about Chester's earlier comment about decals. The red is too bright, it will tone down some when the matte coat goes on.
Dave
This is turning out very nice Dave. That's a terrific body configuration well executed. The decals turned out nice too but I'll agree the red needs toning down. In the future perhaps just using a different red would help. I always have that 'scale effect' thing in mind when doing anything in this scale and I think color choice is easier than trying to alter a too bright color.
Since the truck will be in a diorama for showcasing Dave's wares, the brighter red side panel could be an effective draw. Bright highlights in a photo, painting or diorama will direct a viewer around a scene and create focus points. Might as well leave it before dousing it with grayness.
John
Hadn't thought about that but yeah, the red is good to draw the eye back to the foreground where the truck will be parked with the other detail pieces. I see a few other things I'd do differently on the decals, but since I'm working on a tight schedule, I have to leave it as-is. However, I made the relevant changes to the decal and laser graphics, because I will probably build this model again someday for another diorama.
One problem with the decal paper I'm using, it stretches. Just sliding it off the paper is enough to distort it a little and in this scale a little is a lot. I've never experienced this with commercially printed decals. I can make the graphic slightly narrower, but I'd rather just get a better quality decal paper.
The clear decal paper I use now is from MicroMark. Does anyone have a recommendation for a better product?
So far I have only used Testors' white decal film, and it does the same thing. It acts like a vinyl decal, not a normal water-slide like Microscale makes.
Dave, I have tried the Testors white paper and also the Bare Metal Foil white paper (yes they sell decal paper too, their clear is good) I found the BMF white paper very similar to the Testors. The other I tried is JetCal ( thedecalpaperstore.com )which isn't rubbery but very thick. I suppose it has it's place for some things but not the sides of a 1/87 scale vehicle. It's so thick it will not lay down in surface details at all even with multiple applications of a setting solution.
The little guy is finished. Parked in a diorama it really looks the part, so overall, I'm happy with it. I'll do a few things differently next time.
Dave
Darn, spoke too soon, forgot the rear view mirror! :D
Very nice Dave... dang that's tiny. The canvas sections came out very well, most convincing...
Paul
Dave,
really, really neat, almost tempts me to go back to that scale again but think my fingers are now too big ;D
That looks really great! Especially considering the small size. Very well done!
Quite adequate. -- Russ
Damn, that is great. I am glad that someone here is doing fine work in 1:87.1.
Do you use Optivisors? Magnifier lamps? Loupes? Microscopes? Just lucky with good eyes?
John
Thanks guys. :)
John, the last model I built without glasses or optivisor was the 1/87 Weston Station on my website. That was 2008. Now I can't do much model work without my reading glasses on. I've also become reliant on my Optivisor for fine work. I do have a stereo microscope, but its not as useful for model building as I thought it would be. It does come in handy for understanding how materials react in the laser, etc. More a troubleshooting device than an aid to assembly.
When I look at the detail work I did on military models back in the 90s, I recall doing it without any optical assistance. :-\ That reminds me, I should look into ways to lessen the strain on my eyes, since I'd like to keep on doing this sort of work!
Dave
Beautiful little truck Dave. If it gets to small there is always O-scale. ;D
This is probably too little-too late, Dave, but I just
saw this on the side of the road the other day:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages31.fotki.com%2Fv1095%2Fphotos%2F5%2F15405%2F9152658%2F100_0640-vi.jpg&hash=fda1dd0aedb48543c360b1f30c0ca1ba337d5e48)
Some of the interior shots might help on your next one. Here's the link:
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/reference_files/step-van-1/
Your truck turned out great! See you soon at CSS.........
Quote from: DaKra on October 11, 2010, 05:52:43 AM
That reminds me, I should look into ways to lessen the strain on my eyes, since I'd like to keep on doing this sort of work!
Start working in 1:48 like I did. If that doesn't work, go to 1:13.7 in the garden like I have (that scale works better with imbibations). If that doesn't work get a large screen TV and watch steam videos from the recliner (works best with imbibations). :P
John
Hm, not quite ready to move to Lionel Scale ;D thinking more like move workbench to window, so I'm not always focused at 12" in front of my face.
Ken, thanks for the photos, those are great references. Amazing that this old delivery van survived as long as it did. I think my little model shows how cool it would look, if somebody restored it back to its prime.
Here's a photo in its natural habitat. It will be at CSS10.
Dave
This talk of losing vision always has me worried. My modeling glasses have removable lenses and I have increased their power several times over the last few years.
The black & white shot is really nice Dave. I would love to see this in person and was hoping to get to CSS10 this year but it falls on my wife's 60th birthday. :-\
Quote from: chester on October 17, 2010, 10:53:37 AM
it falls on my wife's 60th birthday.
That's PERFECT! What better way to say "I Love You" than to take your wife to CSS??
See you there, Chester.
Yeah and while you are there, you could give her some HO scale flowers. ;) I'll actually have those at my table.
The eyesight thing is an important health & quality of life issue that's rarely discussed. You hear a lot about diet, but not much about eyesight except when you are a kid, your mom tells you not to sit too close to the TV, then you get a job and spend 10 hrs a day staring at a computer monitor... :-\
Anyway, here's a photo I found for Chester.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi655.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu276%2FDaveKrakow%2FChesters.jpg&hash=c17f4243500700d67529212fd799fb7827331900)
Quote from: DaKra on October 09, 2010, 03:32:56 PM
The little guy is finished. Parked in a diorama it really looks the part, so overall, I'm happy with it. I'll do a few things differently next time.
Dave
Dave,
I don't know how I missed this...DOH!...What a great litle build and result. You should be very happy with it.
Marc
Dave, I missed it too. What a beauty!
Excellent and unique!
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on October 17, 2010, 12:47:55 PM
Quote from: chester on October 17, 2010, 10:53:37 AM
it falls on my wife's 60th birthday.
That's PERFECT! What better way to say "I Love You" than to take your wife to CSS??
See you there, Chester.
Yes he is right Chester. Diane went last year and is going this year. And it looks like Dave is going to make it all the worth while, and I heard Ken is bringing a few of his gems along also.
Jerry