Hey guys, no rest here....! ;D
Have been taking pictures for about a year now of these buildings and all the junk that is scattered about the property. Friendly old man who owns the place but he can´t understand why I would like to build a model of his home ;D. As this is my first try with anything larger than 1/87 scale some input here would be helpful. It´s easy to "think" 1/87 scale and believe you can include a hundred ideas here but I understand that I have to reduce the size of some buildings and I wont model all of them.
Anyway the era will be the 1950´s - 1960´s. My plan is to build the entire north wall and have one pair of the double doors open so the interior of a small garage can be viewed properly. No, no......not another Krakow garage! The front yard will have a guy working on his car and motorcycle and sometimes he will take on repair jobs from a few customers so a couple of vehicles and spare parts can be justified.
The building behind the two cars is the small home - I´ll call this the east wall. The west wall is the one with the embedded boulders. The south side is complicated with the additional buildings so we´ll se how I can reduce that to something manageable. The back of the east walls will not be modeled as I don´t find that nessecary - obviously this is the back of the diorama. In other words this will be an L - shaped structure.
The property on the south side is filled with piles of all sorts of junk that I have documented. However I have more or less decided to make that into a dump site following pictures that I took elsewhere but also mix in some stuff from the actual site.
I´m well underway with many detail parts and have also made a small test for the dump site as can be seen in the attached pictures. Dave www.vectorcut.com has again promised to help out with some detail parts. My main concern is the south wall and how to make that interesting without the two additional buildings. Some input would be most appreciated.
Anders ???
Noth wall(//img%20width=800%20height=533%5Dhttp://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j344/fiffistorp/Forum%20pictures/DSC00602.jpg) ][/img]
North wall(//img%20width=800%20height=533%5Dhttp://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j344/fiffistorp/Forum%20pictures/DSC00601.jpg) ][/img]
South side[i(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F20110424_26.jpg&hash=f959a8e66bfba66c7b0656135fb5107da4a84263) mg][/img]
South side[im(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F20110424_18.jpg&hash=41a998a9861f1ec95c57cdb2c9c14618e9bd2d70) g][/img]
West side(//img%20width=800%20height=535%5Dhttp://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j344/fiffistorp/Forum%20pictures/20110226_8.jpg) ][/img]
The home[im(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F20110226_4.jpg&hash=6b72ae2e29070674c9587e5effe6ada0c2f1d428) g][/img]
Reference junk[im(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F20110424_16.jpg&hash=717e84f19952e6d93d0ad3b100d38069ad3f4772) g][/img]
Details[i(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F11-05-08_181546_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=7b9785647982be9c0269d226d874e6f277ff71d5) mg][/img]
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Dump site[i(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F11-04-15_121416_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=f0e55a0b12cefe373a967f011d9c25cdc8c060e7) mg][/img]
Dunp site[i(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F11-05-06_120425_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=63cb2d49020796492c61788f8faf7e6e273fbb96) mg][/img]
Dump site[i(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F11-05-07_123604_MB_R8_S4.jpg&hash=60684c5e75817250f1f2e70e6c4a1b361abf7de3) mg][/img]
Holy Crap!...your details in the first two images are absolutely stunning!. Gorgeous paint work.
Can you tell me a buit more aboutyour painting approach, and what you used to do your wood staining on the ladder and the work-bench top. Also your colors/coloring for the tires please.
I really look forward to what this project will look like.
I wouldn't worry about the south wall..I think a simple, well modeled wall can be beautiful, and it can offer a nice counterpoint to the busier walls. You can always add a small window at the top of the stone, just under the wood...for a bathroom or such. and you can always add the power and telephone lines draping/pulled across the wall surface. Maybe a water or drain pipe coming out of the ground and going through the wall.
Looks like you will be having to do a cement mixer :P ;D
Marc
I have already sat in front and looking whether there is now reality or model. Madness, as you realize the model implementation!
I agree with Marcs appeal, please tell us more about the realization and your many tricks to achieve such a realistic look!
Frithjof
And I thought it would be hard for you to be more realistic than the Krakow Garage. Stepping into a larger scale certainly fits you well, most excellent work on everything so far. I am curious about the skull on the post. Does this exist somewhere on the old man's property (wink).
Stunning!
The details are exceptional.
I would also like to see/hear more about them.
I saved the images of the bench and ladder for reference.
(just a nit pick; the vice needs some bolts to hold it to the bench) ;)
Looking forward to more! Makes me want to start my machine shop................
-Marty
Anders
That is just beautiful work you've started. Like Marc said how about some words on how you did the worbench top and the tires.
Jerry
JUNIOR. I think you have made a big move from 1/87 to 1/35. Work & detail is outstanding
mike sigmon
jacksonville, fl
You certainly have adapted well to the new size! Love it!
Well Anders,
my "origonal" idea for a 1/35 scale small junk yard/workshop filled with cement mixers and road rollers,various bits of old builders junk etc has been well and truly scuppered.
Wonderful work so far - presume this is just a couple of hours work that you have fitted in over last week or so since the garage build was finished ... I am not only jealous of your talent but also the speed of the build.
I too would like more details of you painting techniques but purely in an academic sense as even knowing the "how" would not let me get close to this look.
Looking forward to the next chapter in the story.
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
I am as impressed as Gordon by the speed of Anders. Not only does he make 'most satisfactory' work, but he makes it in a 'most fast' time...
Beautiful work so far, and a very interesting prototype to model! The buildings and junk pile are reminiscent of many that I have seen in rural areas of the USA.
Thanks very much guys - some great input there ;D ;D! Here are the paint descriptions for the ladder, bench and tires. Not sure if anyone was curious about the paint job on the tools and other details if so let me know because all of that is a totally different story with other brands of paint such as Tamiya, Vallejo and the Alclad 2 Lacquers.
Ladder.
Kappler wood stained with diluted Humbrol 64 Light Grey. Usual splits, knot holes etc. also added nail and screw heads not really visible in the picture. A couple of more stains with very diluted 33 Black and 29 Dark Earth. Dry brushed with 140 Gull Grey. Some of the paint stains were painted with a fine brush but most of them were done as splashes. Loaded a brush with diluted paint and used a toothpick to force the bristles away from the ladder and then let it go. Careful there the whole thing can be ruined in a second. The black stains are supposed to represent tar - saw this on another ladder. Attached is a picture that I used for reference.
Tires.
Sprayed black from a can. Humbrol 64 Light Grey and 33 Black mixed on a palette to a couple of different shades. Painted with a flat brush. Dry brushed slightly with 64 Light Grey, 63 Sand and 148 Random Tan. Finally pastel powders in various earth tones. Attached is a reference picture.
Bench.
This is from the Tamiya "Engine Maintenance Set". It came with a rather ugly plastic top and I have never had any luck with painting styrene to represent wood therefore I glued some very thin boards to the bench top and made a new metal frame from a styrene strip to match the additional thickness. Same paint job as for the ladder but 29 Dark Earth was sustituted for 62 Leather. The black and brown stains were less diluted than for the ladder. Finally brushed on some pastel powders in earth and grey tones.
Hope it makes sense ???
Marty, thanks for pointing out the missing bolts on the vise. The funny thing is that the art work on the box cover (same Tamiya set as the bench) shows a vise with four bolts.
Anders ;D
Ladder[im(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F20110209_1.jpg&hash=0c23b67b10dddcab8d415065626aa2f053a19c46) g][/img]
Tires[im(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F20110424_35.jpg&hash=744bcfe9596fd342495783d89bca385a607d6d41) g][/img]
Forgot a couple of things.....
Marc, you suggested that the cement mixer should be modeled but after seeing Gordon´s masterpiece and your magnificent styrene work I´ll pass - maybe a pile of cement ;D!
The attached picture is a close up of the south wall - to me it looks like wizard Doan was in Sweden recently and did some 1:1 work ????
Anders ;D
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Very nice, Anders!
Funny to see that even the most idyllic Swedish village has some cluttered wastelands.
I can't wait to see more!
I like the vegetation-both the variety and the composition.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 10, 2011, 09:54:38 AM
I like the vegetation-both the variety and the composition.
I agree , Chuck . Very nicely done . I have printed the pictures off and will be using them as guides when I return to vegetating myself .
With reference to the prototype photos . I pity the poor sods who had to build the stonework . There are some whoppers in those walls ,
Nick
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This stuff is amazing! I'm glad to see you "messing around" in 1/35 scale ... this will definitely keep me on my toes and inspired.
Also, for all those who say that Anders works with amazing speed ... well, that might be true sometimes ... but I happen to know that he's been "experimenting" with 1/35 stuff for some time before actually posting his progress photos. So there, the dirty little secret is revealed! ;D :P
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Is there something "wrong" with the "scene" photos? My initial impression was that the shots of the individual detail parts looked amazing ... but something was "wrong" in the scenic shots. While corresponding with Anders on other stuff, I mentioned this and indicated that I hadn't posted anything to that effect because I'm really not sure WHAT seems wrong ... maybe the lighting ... but somehow the amazement with the individual photos just feel kinda flat when looking at the scenic shots.
(Oh, and before someone tells me STFU and I'm just jealous ... well, sure I'm jealous -- though that really turns into inspiration after the initial shock ... and I'm posting these thoughts, because Anders like myself appreciates the "attaboys" but feels the critical reviews can be most useful ... and he asked me to go ahead and post the ??? that crossed my mind.) (And, just to confirm, yeah -- I'm jealous -- in a good way!) ;D
Now, like I said, something seems wrong ... and I have a few ideas that I'll get to. A couple minor points here that seem like somewhat definite concerns. That Del Monte can seems rather large and out of place ... seems to compromise the size of the barrels and other details. Think it would work tucked in amongst other junk, but seems like a distraction as a somewhat focal point. Also, the deep green plant in front of the green/white barrel (lower left) seems out of place in terms of coloration and needs to be blended in ... but let's talk about the scenic colors.
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Anders -- In all of the prototype / inspiration photos that you've posted, I'm seeing some beautiful, lush scenery around the junk. The grasses are GREEN, the soil looks rich and in this case even a bit muddy (wet). But your model scenery looks a bit arid (dry) with burnt out grasses and dry/sandy soil. Those effects look WONDERFUL on your Krakow garage, but they seem odd here compared to the original photos. Do you intend to model the Swedish location?
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Maybe it is just the lighting: Aside from the issues of locale/climate and some very minor fine-tuning type things, maybe it is just the lighting. I'm definitely NOT any sort of expert at photo-enhancement, but I took one of Anders' shots and tweaked as shown above. To my eye, it now looks like "real stuff" outside on a bright, sunny day.
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Here's a comparison slice of the photo that Anders posted and my retouch. To my eye, Anders original has a somewhat murky appearance (brownish, yellowish, like muddy underwater filter) ... so my "concern" may indeed just be a lighting / white balance issue.
And, again ... ANDERS is interested in YOUR opinions AND criticisms ... and, of course, you can still tell me to STFU and I don't know what I'm talking about! ;D
(Now, come on Anders ... get this stuff PERFECT, so you can drive me completely insane trying to copy your work.) :-X :-\ ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Trying to copy the masters : this is the beginning of the end, Dallas.
Believe me, believe me...
Did you notice the nice little paint cans, Frederic? ;) -- Dallas
(I want to believe you, and yet you've done so well actually wrapping up your masterpiece ... of course, maybe your hair is all standing on end now and your eyes are bulged and your face now shows that you've been thoroughly tortured in the process ... but the photos of the model look good!)
PS -- Anders, do lingonberries grow in the desert? ;)
Thanks very much Dallas!
Some interesting and valid thoughts. First of all as mentioned in my first post this is a test project for a larger dump site but without some dramatic help it wont be much better than what you see right now. Anyway I just got some help from you Dallas so here we go.
Except for the ground cover and vegetation nothing is glued down so far. At the final site some of that stuff will be burried in the soil and there will be wheel tracks, mud etc. Your suggestion about having a "greener" look sounds great.
The Poppie flower you pointed out (Made by F. Rex if I remember right) is horrible and wont make it to the final scene. It´s the only complete paper plant I tested so far but have others on hand but are not convinced by any of them. I was actually wondering how long it would take before somebody jumped on that one - two days apparently ;D! The small laser cut yellow flowers are from Vectorcut and intended for 1/87 scale. You just punch them out and glue to whatever looks appropriate. The small white flowers are from Silflor and both of these are acceptable in my opinion. It seem to me that large paper and etched plants are mostly trouble - keep them small. Vines can look good just take a look at Ken Hamilton´s version. Unfortunately they don´t grow in the area I´m trying to model.
If anyone here at the forum has any ideas about improving paper and etched plants that would be great. The Del Monte can is the size that a restaurant kitchen would buy and I have no idea how it ended up at my dump site ???!
Great input Dallas keep them coming....!
Anders ???
Yes, I think you did a wonderful job of "upsizing" the same scenic "feeling" that you did in HO ... BUT, for the Swedish setting, a much greener setting with richer soil will look better. (These will also look REALLY good when complimented by that red blacksmith shop.)
Agreed, the Del Monte can is quite large ... and it certainly will work "somewhere" ... but if it is placed by itself, the unusual size becomes a distraction. (The paint, oil and gas cans all look superb and "right size" ... so, the Del Monte can should go in a pile and one of those should go out front as a "separate" item.)
The yellow and white flowers both look great ... and you've convinced me to get some of the Vector Cut "HO" flowers to add to my stash.
I don't know what photo software you might have, but an "auto correct" in Irfanview (free program) made a big improvement in the outdoor scenes. I made some minor changes after that, but the auto correct alone was significant.
Also, Marc recently posted a link to this very good thread on scenery:
http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7963&start=60
I think the "greens" shown there are more like what you'd want. On that model, the soil still looks a bit drier and dustier than what I'm seeing in the Swedish shots ... but more of the washes and richer starting colors would help there. You don't have to model "wet mud" to reproduce your scenes, but the soil should be richer.
Keep the amazing stuff coming!
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas you beat me to it posting that thread ........... I use that one and this one http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3177&start=120 ......... I use both as bench marks.
Think Per Olav's work really captures Northern European damp and wet conditions.
Here are 2 of the pictures I keep above my work desk as inspiration, first one from the first thread, second from Per's
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FWIW Anders I would consider maybe emphasising a worn path, just down to the dirt, through the piles of junk and tiering the vegetation from the path up to and around the junk and as you have already said sinking some of the drums into the ground.
Anders, All i can say is WOW ;D Great Modeling
The biggest perceived problem with Anders' outdoor scene is just the image's poor lighting and/or color balance. The same problem badly affects Per Olav's dioramas. As Dallas showed, by tweaking the contrast and color balance, he was able to bring the image to life. It is very difficult to make any meaningful decision about coloration until you can see the actual color.
Texture is another matter; even black-and-white photos reveal that. And the texture of the model vegetation is what I finally realized has mildly jarred me, especially as I look at the vegetation for about the third time. It is too coarse,tall, varied in color, and clumpy in comparison to real stuff near the actual structure. That doesn't mean it is "wrong" because you probably could find places around the world with similar weeds. It just doesn't match the 1:1 stuff (which, in this case, I prefer).
So maybe the ground cover should be smaller and simpler?
Russ
Well, I really was trying to refrain from commenting on the scenery....especially since I was so impressed with the detail bits....and I wasn't sure what the heck was going on re. the scenery....but since Dallas and others have mentioned it, and asked for comments:
I am really underwhelmed by the landscaping/vegetation, and I feel it does a horrible dis-service to your junk and clutter.
I fully agree with what Russ has said about the texture, scale coarseness, etc. I also feel it looks very schizophrenic and un-natural insofar as placement and grouping...IMO there should be some continuity and flow to scenery, it should not be screaming or jarring, and saying "look at me"...it needs to serve as a foil, canvas, compliment, and enhancer for all the other bits and pieces of the scene...it should be unifying and make the eye flow. .....especially in a northern european setting like you are doing (in a desert or arid area you can get away with a more spotty look).
Unfortunately some of your clusters and groupings happen to have one of my biggest pet peaves, in regards to scenery....and unfortunately so many people do it....and that is the starburst, explosion, hairplug look of a bush, weeds, and grass clumps. I know the premade grass clumps have some of this inherently and it is unavoidable...so that is fine...but I find the biggest offender to be a good number of the yellow dried clumps that you created. I also feel you need to go use some additional smaller fine scale greenery...loke low ground cover, or new growth (this can be done by using fine scenery foam and/or tree covering). Lastly, what makes scenes like Gunnar's and Per's work relates bak to the flow and unity...and they have achieved this by going through and painting/shading their vegetation with acrylic colors, not only to enhance, but also to give the scene a sense of "whole".
Marc
Anders.
Once again, it's nice to see a project where I can study all the individual items in a scene and try work out how the hell you achieved the finishes. I note the comments about the scenery. Scenery is something that can look pretty ordinary in the early stages, but overtime, can look realistic with additional layers and blending. But thats another story.
Also good to see some of the "old timers" , giving "constructive" criticisms. It's a refreshing change.
Marty's comment about the vice bolts, made me look at my models.
I've just returned from New Zealand on a mission to photograph more workshops and various "junk" scenes. Maybe I'll post them on the WP forum in the near future.
Looking forward to seeing this project evolve.
regards Mario Rapinett ( Australia ...... located southwest of Pasadena )
Quote
If anyone here at the forum has any ideas about improving paper and etched plants that would be great.
Painting them appropriately would be a great start. ;) ;D
QuoteNot sure if anyone was curious about the paint job on the tools and other details if so let me know because all of that is a totally different story with other brands of paint such as Tamiya, Vallejo and the Alclad 2 Lacquers.
Absolutely interested...just didn't want to seem pushy. :)
Marc
Hey guys,
Trashed it - new scenery coming up in a new TEST dump site. Had far to many different scenery items at hand that I was too eager to test in a far too small space. Also looked only at how the junk was arranged in all my prototype pictures and forgot about the vegetation.
As for how the details were painted there are so many different techniques used - could someone please be a bit more specific? Obviousley the trash can is not done the same way as the shovel ;D ;D ;D.
Anders
PS. Thanks Mr. Mobilgas
Forgot this. Vegetation Swedish style - the way to go or what do you say Marc ???? By the way they do rust right through in this country - quite often actually. Just teasing you Marc.... :P
Anders
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Anders, Your welcome ..... just call me Craig
We need some updates! :-X ;) -- Dallas
Hey guys,
While waiting for some new scenery materials for the new dump site I have finished a number of detail parts - just a few shown here. Throwing in two pictures that I took about a week ago and used as reference. The guy who will be working on his motorcycle and one or two cars in the former blacksmith shop owns the leather jackets and boots. He likes them in almost new condition but I´m not really sure about the finish on those.
The weeds are just out of the box not painted yet. If anyone can tell me how to reproduce the weeds surrounding the brick pile in the prototype picture that would be fantastic!
All sorts of input welcome not only on the clothes.
Anders ???
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Well Anders it was worth the wait !
The brick pile is very effective, although not really shown in the photo I would be tempted to darken the bottom few bricks to indicate "dampness" ... appreciate its on a pallet, nice touch that its broken/collapsed.
A thought, you might like to consider maybe adding some moss on the North side of the pile ..... I use finely ground dark green foam mixed in some dilute PVA, this stiffens up the foam when dry and allows you then to dry bush it with some lighter green. If you do follow this suggestion then you can do the same on other long term bits of rubbish obviously North has got to be consistent.
The pallet, nothing to add I think thats about as good as it gets - need to read back on the thread to see how you produced the grey wood.
Leather - I usually finish on my leather with a coat of Indian Ink, this drys with a slight sheen and then a light dry brush with the appropriate matt colour is used to show the areas of wear.
Now, tell me where you got the bent wood chairs ?
Most satisfactory. I love how the pallet is a precise miniature of the original. -- Russ
Thanks Gordon and Russ,
Some great ideas there Gordon.
Russ, "precise" oh well, it only measures 3 x 4 cm so the staples are oversized. Would have taken a very good microscope to get them right and then how would you get hold of them ???. The ones I managed to make measures 1 m.m. not even my best tweezer would hold them.
Anders ;D
Marginal at best ... especially considering the fact that "junk" is the featured item at your new place.
I suggest you pack it all up and send it off ... oh, maybe to someone who could use it as "incidental junk" (not quite featured) behind an auto repair shop or such ...
Then you can start over and make some "proper" featured-junk. ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
(with fingers crossed ... hoping this isn't all too transparent and obvious ...)
PS -- I hope Millie doesn't see that lovely wicker suitcase, or she might starting asking about a picnic basket ... hmm ... guess I'd better ask ... what did you use for painting the wicker? Came out really nice. ??? :)
Wow, really impressive Junior!
I love the pallet and the different accessories, like the chairs, cans, etc..Could you please tell us more about these accessories? Italeri, Plus Model? ;)
Anders,
QuoteIf anyone can tell me how to reproduce the weeds surrounding the brick pile in the prototype picture that would be fantastic!
Check Marcel's site http://www.feldbahn-modellbau.ch/ (http://www.feldbahn-modellbau.ch/) Modelbau / Anlagebau / Pflanzen und ein paar Ziegelsteine.
I will see Marcel on Saturday and Sunday and ask him for some hints. Also have a look at Fredericus Rex at the paper plants. for thin leaves you can use cigarette paper
as Marcel is using.
Jacq
Your modelling is a dream, Anders.
Don't forget to check out www.jbadiorama.com . He makes his own plants and weeds and might be of some help . Whilst not specific to what you are doing , on the Sokol diorama he makes some nice looking waterplants .
Still ever if the site is not of any help it is still worth looking at ,
Nick
I just had another look on that site and he doesn't actually do much vegetation as most of his dioramas are set in the sea but what he does do is interesting .
Sorry for any confusion caused ,
Nick
All looking really super Anders. The hot water radiator is a junkyard feature not often seen in modeling, nice touch. And I too like the prototypical pallet. Great details.
Great stuff!
Hey Anders....you're really starting to get on my nerves! ;) ;D Seriously...beautiful work, and incredibly fast.
Would you be so kind as to share an SBS of some of the paint work, such as on the bricks, the pallette, and on the wicker basket.
TIA
Marc
PS. Gordon, you're closer, so you really need to go do something about this...I mean why have you, chester and I been killing ourselves making small cluttery stuff, if Anders is just going to come along and leave us iin the dust.
Thanks very much guys for your kind comments and all the info. regarding weeds etc. - much appreciated ;D! Remember be tough in your criticism I can take the heat that´s why I´m here -to learn. Instead of having the wrong scenery when it´s almost too late I can now re-do that and hopefully make it more convincing thanks to an early post by you Marc.
When I looked at this project with my former 1/87 scale eyes I didn´t realize what a major undertaking this would be in 1/35 scale - totally different ball game but when you do get one or two things right it´s quite rewarding and much more fun.
I´ll be back real soon with some info. regarding the paint job. I do work a lot by intuition and trial and error so just give me a day or so. Sometimes I can´t even reproduce my own work done a few years ago >:(.
Frank, regarding the parts, Dallas has made a major research on everything available in this scale, thanks Dallas! Check his garage tread for all the manufacturers. If it´s something specific you would like to know about or can´t find just drop me a p.m. and I´ll be glad to help.
Anders ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 26, 2011, 12:05:00 AM
PS. Gordon, you're closer, so you really need to go do something about this...I mean why have you, chester and I been killing ourselves making small cluttery stuff, if Anders is just going to come along and leave us iin the dust.
The thought had entered my mind and if you are talking contracts I'm open to negotiation - however am working on a secret project which may grind his stuff into dust ;D
Absolutely beautiful!
Thanks Christian great to see you here again!
Here is the first SBS whatever that means ??? ??? ???. I know it´s a tutorial of some kind but what does it stand for ;D?
BRICK PILE.
I used Juweela 23049 Dark Beige plaster bricks. They do look great and are easy to break in a realistic way. However almost everyone of them have one or two tiny holes from trapped air during the casting process and that´s a real nuisance as it will show immediately if you don´t fix it. If you want perfectly smooth bricks these are no good because after taking care of the holes they will be somewhat irregular. As I have no experience with other manufacturers´ bricks I will stick to these as they take stains etc. very well. You don´t have to carve away the holes one by one it can be taken care of when a whole wall is completed but before painting them - obviousley ;D. I did them one by one as a pile is a bit different and there´s "only" 200 in the pile. Actually it´s not very time consuming.
I was initially after the same colors as in the prototype picture but after messing up too many I decided for more or less the look in the attached picture - a pile next to the other one. Just couldn´t get that first color variation right - maybe next try. Used very thinned Humbrol enamels No. 60, 82 and 100 these are from orange to red and No.29, 63 and 81 these are from beige to brown. With this method you can´t correct a thing they will soak up everything permanently. Acrylics might be more forgiving - haven´t tested yet. An option might be to seal them but then they would probably get a more painted look.
Glued two pieces of stripwood to the two facing ends of a rectangular piece of cardboard. This will make them lean towards the center. Glued everything in place and dry brushed black, grey etc. Mixed some black acrylic to wet plaster and made up the grout on some of them. I´ll guess these particularly bricks were salvaged from a wall. Finally I brushed on some Bragdon powders and added some Woodland Scenics fine ground foam to represent moss.
If anyone has some ideas about the colors in the "first" pile please share. Will be back with info. on the pallet etc. soon.
Anders ;D
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Anders, SBS means Step By Step
Anders,
Came across these while out on my bike today, and thought of you. I really liked all the different types/styles.
Marc
PS. Better build them before Gordon decides to develops a sudden interest in pallets. ;D
Thanks Marc,
Great picture and there´s even some bricks in the background could have been at my secret site which Gordon has no access to ;D!
SBS Pallet.
This was done a bit differently compared to the ladder that I have posted an SBS on previously. The ladder has probably been indoors for a century or so in the barn where I found it and the pallet outdoors for a couple of decades so obviously they have also weathered very differently.
I used the old trusty Humbrol enamels again and I know they are not very popular in the US but there are good color chart cross references on the Internet - maybe not for the Vallejo paints but I wouldn´t use them for this litlle project as they are acrylics.
Stained the wood with a thin wash of Humbrol enamel 87. This is a grey color with a lot of blue in it. Very diluted Paynes Grey from artists oils would probably also work. Every paint/wash step had a drying time of twenty four hours. Cut the wood to size for a palett in new shape. Distressed and broke some pieces etc. one more wash with the 87 to cover the now exposed areas. Next a thin wash of Humbrol 33 Black. Final wash I used Burnt Umber artists oil but only in the distressed places and around the staples. A final dry brushing with Humbrol 34 White to represent all the high lights that are so visible in the prototype picture.
Next some of the details.
Anders ;D
A crowd gathers ... they start to chant: "New photos! New photos!"
So, of course, if you have any ... ;) :D ???
(Meanwhile, sorry to say I don't have any new photos for my stuff ... been buried at work for a couple of weeks and that's likely to go on for another week or so ... getting vicarious "modeling breaks" by visiting the forum now and then.)
Hope you're not "down in the dumps!" or buried under a pile of tiny bricks ... Dallas ;D
Dallas,
it is well worth the wait ............... I have been fortunate enough to see some pre-production shots.
Think the guy has handled his journey into a new scale pretty well :)
Quote from: gfadvance on June 07, 2011, 10:33:46 AM
Dallas,
it is well worth the wait ............... I have been fortunate enough to see some pre-production shots.
You lucky _____ ! ;) Of course, if I had seen some pre-production shots and happened to think they were more than good enough for prime-time, I probably wouldn't come right out and say so ... I'd probably just drop a few hints, hints, hints .... hint ... hint ... hint .... 8)
(Too subtle?)
Okay, time for an update and GREEN is the color now. Didn´t bother with a correct background this time just some plain shots.
Made up a new small test piece that might work - still a few things to correct. Made a second base that will be placed next to the first one and these two will make up the entire dump site. To the left will be a narrow transition area featuring a very old stone wall and fence that can be seen in the picture with the small tree that I also tried to reproduce. Didn´t have the right leaf material on hand (slow manufacurer) but it will do for now. Right after that the L - shaped building with the yard area etc. The entire diorama will measure 110 x 50 cm much larger and much more work than I had originally planned for but no turning back now.
Found to small yellow and black details in my scrap box ;D that looks familiar ;) wonder what they are ??? Marc will probably know. They can be seen at the top of the scrap pile. Got some great help this time from a pro. landscape gardener regarding how things grow etc. Thanks Gordon and of course Dallas who seem to be available 24 hours a day.
As usual serious criticism most welcome.
Anders ???
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I'm sorry but I'll be damned if I can find anything to complain about!
Looks real to me.
-Marty
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Tarp prototype
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Tree and stone wall prototype.
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Hello Anders, Beautifull work as usual from you!!! As I scroll thru the pics I have to really stop and try to figure out if I'm looking at the real thing or your model :) :)
Randy
Quote from: Junior on June 08, 2011, 04:48:15 AM
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I think the transition from lush green countryside to arctic wasteland is a bit too drastic here ... but the rest of the pictures look nice! ;D
Det är inte California. Det är Sverige! Vacker...
-- Mr. 24 Hours
Anders,
Just catching up with this thread again. As usual nothing new just perfect as it would be in real life.
Jerry
Anders, just about perfect ............... I will find something wrong I just need to keep looking ;)
Picture 2 is still my favourite , get that giant tree trunk out of the way and your "greens" just fade beautifully into the back ground
Fantastic -realistic -suburb workmanship - I have to look twice to see if its the real thing - its not a model its a work of art.
Barney
OK Anders, you want subjective? Some of the wrinkles on your tarp don't match the prototype. Other than that everything's wonderful.
Anders, I am always excited to follow your wonderful builds. (That tarp is just perfect.)
But I am really excited about the size of your diorama, 'cause that just means that you have to build even more rusted, twisted, faded junk! - Awesome!
Satisfactory. -- Russ
I would even go as far as "Very satisfactory", but it is well known that we, latin people, tend to oversay everything...
If it looked any more real, you'd be getting fined by the local environmental authorities!
BTW, what did you use to make the tarp?
Thanks very much guys - much appreciated ;D! I´ll guess it´s safe now to move on to part II. in the same style.
Ray, the tarp was made of 0,05 mm soft metal foil that was folded over some scrap wood.
Thanks again,
Anders ;D
Hi guys - time for an update!
Dump site more or less done. The L - shaped building will be next to the low stone wall with the rear of the long wall facing the stone wall and dump site. The more interesting yard area with the garage etc. will of course be further to the left. Thanks Gordon and Dallas for your help so far.
Criticism, suggestions etc. most welcome.
Anders ???
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Heck he even threw in the kitchen sink! :o Very convincing scene! Especially like the bike too.
Only thing I see need ing attention is the highlights on the rock/stone wall; too bright. May be tone them down with some dark grey powders or gauche?
-Marty
Hi Anders, That is an amazing scene!!!!! Some of the most realistic usage of grasses and shrubs I have seen. Your attention to the details is really out of this world.
That bike is so neat but maybe trun the handlebars so it is not all on the same plane?
This was worth the wait!!!!!
Randy
Ahhh,that looks like home from home . But a bit tidier .
Excellent job . It looks like I need to up my game when I next do some scenery modelling .
The only problem is , where's the train track ?
Nick
It is so convincing that the local authorities want it all cleaned up NOW!
good stuff Anders, all looking very convincing. I too like the bike.
But there is a stone or two out of place compared to the prototype wall (wink)
Hi Anders,
glad you posted these ............ still looking good and making my scenery progress looking a bit sick ;)
Looking at the photos again, and we are now getting to the nit picking stage, think I would wear down the tread on the tyres a bit, like a lot .......... as an example that one perched behind the bike looks a bit too new to be dumped!
Maybe this will illustrate what I mean , one is extremely worn but what I would expect if it was junked.
They're lining up at the gates ...
Sorry Anders,
I can't really fault that much at all. I think its an excellent little observation of junk collecting. I really like some of the elements, such as the old panel of wall tiles dumped on the ground, the bike is very cool, and even small things, like how even though the assortment of pipes and steel are just dumped, they still have that feel that they have been layed out for methodical spotting when you go down to the back yard to find that elusive piece you were after (the way a junk collector just knows exactly where they placed that one piece they need).
I really look forward to seeing thestructural side of this diorama come together now.
Thanks for sharing the updates,
Dan
I think it looks great.
the only real criticism I have is re. the bicycle (did you really think I would miss this? ;D).....if you are going tone the fron wheel/rimm like that, you definitely need to remove the tire......the metal rim can bend like you show...but no way is the tire goint to take/keep that shape. 8)
M
Marc, sounds like you have some experience with bent bicycle rims ::)
Excellent work! In the shots where the 1:1 background is visible, it's hard to tell where the scale foliage ends and the "real" stuff begins.
There are many great little details, for instance the the small mounds of excess concrete and the crumbling blocks of concrete that set up before being dumped. Those are things I've seen in real junk piles so many times!
Thanks very much for the input guys! ;D Here we go one by one....
MARTY,
Those white spots are very visible in reality but don´t look so great on a model as most people don´t know what it is so they will be toned down.
RANDY,
I could turn the handlebars but not the fork ???
NICK;
TRACK.............. ??? ??? ??? Passing by "my" blacksmith shop and dump site - maybe in the UK ;D ;D ;D
CHUCK;
Authorities ??? My junk is tiny but the old man (the owner of the blacksmith shop) might have a problem very soon although he looks quite relaxed in the attached picture changing from winter to summer tires.
GORDON,
Agree and I have another set of tires that are pretty beat up so I´ll swap those and the newer looking ones can be placed in the garage.
CHESTER,
I fixed the tarp that you complained about in your previous post - now this! ;) ;)
MARC,
Have a couple of other bikes that I can do a better job on. Haven´t worked much with styrene in 1/87 scale and got myself a surprise here. After removing all the obvious military stuff on the bike and then replacing all the details such as spokes,gears, chain and ten other things I heated the front wheel carefully and it looked pretty good. After it had been painted I thought it needed a little more twist - almost set the entire bike on fire. Now I learned - never heat anything up that has been painted. Anyway here is a bike that is not too far away from mine. If you have any ideas on how to make that wheel better looking the next time it would be appreciated. Major problem with the tire as it´s cast as one piece together with the rim. ???
Anders ;D
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It was worth the wait.
Absolutely brilliant in all areas. Scenery, realistic detail weathering, mini scenes, etc.
You must have owned a junk yard in another life.
Love the the crap around where the concrete mix has set.
Typical builders making a quick mortar mix for a retaining wall with reo.
The whole composition is first class.
Nothing looks like it was just "planted" and everything is well blended. So realistic.
As with your garage & large machinery shed projects, I think it will be too much for a lot of RTR modelers.
But that's OK... room for all in the hobby ( "M" being diplomatic )
Congratulations Anders. You will inspire many modelers in the coming years, as other modelers have done on this forum.
I will save and study these photos for many weeks to come.
regards
Mario Rapinett
Your work is just beautiful.
Some of the best life like scenes ever.
Jerry
I'm back from my trip to NYC. I like what you have done. Good stuff. -- Russ
Thanks very much Mario, Jerry and Russ! ;D
Will now start on the end wall facing the front of the diorama and I have a question here. Thinking about using 5 mm foam core board covered with a layer of air clay and then press in the stones through the clay and into the foam core in order to get them level with the bricks and wood panel. Any better sugestions? ???
Shropshire Nick - anybody home? ??
Anders ???
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Anders,
arrange the stones of the wall face down. That way you have the face in one plane. fill from the back the grout with plaster. Use baking paper to prevent sticking of glue/plaster.
when doen you can add the foam core board as reinforcement and body for the rest.
Coming along very well.
jacq
You could post some photos here Anders!
http://www.flickr.com/groups/93048424@N00/pool/with/5873805124/
Thanks Chuck! Interesting - hadn´t seen this before and I feel right at home ;D! Will post some pics. from my "collection".
Anders ;D
Time for an update guys.....work is slow during the summer months ;D!
These pictures are of the main building that will feature a small garage with full interior and two storage areas. It´s somewhat compressed here and there as only the long wall measures 21 m on the prototype which would scale down to 60 cm.... far too much :(. Need space as well for the small resedential building at the end although I will "slice" that in half against the background. Could probably work with some trees and bushes against the back just as on the dump site. The south wall will be facing the dump site.
Dave "DaKra" was kind enough to cut the cast iron windows and Gordon "Gfadvance" volounteered to make the hinges for the double doors, thanks guys ;D!
The concrete on the inside of the walls are still in an experimental stage using a paper that has been coated with plaster I beleive, got it from a guy here in Sweden. The stones on the west wall looks very black in the prototype picture but that´s because they are wet so I tried to represent them in a more normal condition. The boarded up doors on that same wall will probably have some shelves or maybe a tool board on the interior side that´s why only the two horizontal boards are done.
Any kind of comments and suggestions welcome ???!
Anders
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Pic 16. Hinges as supplied by Gordon.[i(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2FDSC_0123.jpg&hash=6f65ad5da0496173e63ee045d5fc90de2db2cf75) mg][/img]
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You are going like a spear.
Very nice progress. What is the footprint of the dio ?
see you in a couple of weeks
Jacq
Anders
Great progress. Love the doors. Nice coloring & weathering.
Jerry
Great progress Anders. I like those doors and the truss rods they have. I still think the giant stones are weird ;D, but you have got them down. The owners will certainly recognize their shop!
You know,I sleep a lot better since you have moved into the 1/35 world. No more sleepless nights over trying to achieve your amazing level to detail in 1/87.
This is turning out just wonderful. I can't wait for more clutter and rusty tools for the inside. And I am amazed that you take your construction notes in English, not in Swedish.
Beautiful!
Hi Anders,
Just stunning...
You have yourself a very interesting subject to model, with loads of micro features that tell its story and make it that little bit unique. I very much appreciate the effort you are going to with faithful reproductions of most of the details, such as actually using the paint and age marks of the doors as a template almost, rather than just being influenced by how they look. I can't really fault anything I keep seeing in this thread...timber colours spot on, the markings on the concrete wall are great, even the white wash effect on the external brickwork seems to have just the right amount of red brick showing through. Amazing...
I am itching now to see where the inside contents of the shop go. That shot used mainly to show the concrete wall has a rather broad spectrum of equipment stacked against it (from the rusting elderly pieces, to modern quick clamps and folding garden chairs).
Thankyou for the eye candy updates!
Dan
Anders, marvellous work. I love this will you have to take a 1:1 piece like this door and to model it exactly as it is. This is certainly one of the best ways to improve oneself.
Quote from: Junior on August 25, 2011, 02:44:07 AM
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Hi Andres,
a really shown top model faithful work.
What material did you use for the walls of the building and how you handled it.
Incredible attention to the prototype Anders and incredible replication in scale. Great work!
Who are you? Are you some kind of super modeler by day and some Super hero by night? Fantastic job! I love the attention to detail, fantastic! Is this going into a layout or will it be a standalone piece ?
And I have been meaning to ask? What's with your "Avatar" who is that a picture of?
Thanks
MPH
"A wise man knows everything, a shrewd one, everybody"
Thanks very much all of you guys - much appreciated! ;D ;D ;D.
Here´s some answers to the questions asked.
Jacques and M.P. Head,
Footprint will be 60 x 120 cm with the dump site taking up half of that space. This will be just a single diorama but with possibilities to add other buildings on seperate bases in the future. The avatar is a very young Dido Armstrong - British mega star singer. When I joined the forum about a year ago this was one of the avatars provided - wonder why myself ???? Attached is a more recent picture.
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Helmut,
Hundreds of things going on with every wall as there are so many different materials and unfortunately I didn´t shoot any pictures during construction but will do that for sure with the remaining walls that will basically include the same materials. Much easier to explain that way.
Dan,
Details and junk......holy crap look at this :o! Another picture with the proud owner of all that stuff explaining to me how the former shop worked with the overhead belt drive system etc. As explained earlier in this thread I will modify this space to a garage with a guy working on a car and a couple of motorcycles. Some of the junk shown could go into the adjacent building where there will be two small rooms. No way I could model all that stuff and I´m not sure it would be that interesting either.
Anders ;D
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Anders,
You absolutely have to build the Gnome / Dvärgar in the window!
Ha.... ;D ;D ;D! Why not....but how about the goofey creatures in the first picture (p.9) that I posted yesterday? They can be seen in the window to the right. I think they are even better...... ???.
Anders ;D
Are we talking about those very scary & creepy figures on the right of picture 1 .............. I spotted those but thought better of making any comments .
However ignoring them the work is great Anders, you certainly have an eye for detail and then transposing into your scenes ....think my favourite has got to be the doors (lets ignore the hinges) but the colour, wood effects and all the details on them are superb.
Really inspirational and I look forward to more updates, at a speedier pace please Anders ............ Summer is nearly over!
Wow!
I thought you were just going to do a building facade ... way too much to digest here in one sitting ... look forward to coming back and having a good look at everything ...
Holy Mackerel!
Dallas
Anders, I am inspired by your attention to the actual detail on the original elements in your model, the doors are stunning!
Michael
Anders,
Great progress! I Love the doors and reproductions of most of the details.
Nice coloring, and shipped paint effect ;)
Franck
Lost for words actually, Anders,
however,
one of your pics of bricks on a pallet in the dump, enthused me to take this one this afternoon, for reference
think its wagon or coach brake blocks
but not many weeds in sight, as too hard a ground
Edit;- Adds pic!!
PS I dont like their corrugated, it dont look right!!!! ;D
Thanks very much, Gordon, Dallas, Michael, Frank and Don ;D!
I agree on the corrugated Don, wouldn´t look so great on a model. New pictures coming up soon......have been asked to speed it up.....will do!
Anders ;D
Special laser cut job for Anders approval.
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Parts sheet
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The backplate almost looks like a happy face. Go stand in the corner. -- Russ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pareidolia
Wonderful job, Dave. You should simply not say European since there are many different sorts of plugs in Europe (that being said, I have absolutely no problem with you calling it European)...
Dave, the design is very accurate just like in the pictures I sent you. As you explained to me there is a problem with a very rough surface when you laser cut pieces in 3D and resin would be a better choice. Think I can get rid of some by over spraying with glossy black.
Happy face ;D... or not the plug look like it´s been in a fire.... ;D ;D. Anyway I think they will be fine.
Thanks Dave,
Anders
No there is no 3d engraving and the rough surface is the matte paint I brushed on for the test.
Dave
Anders,
Just giving this one a nudge...finished yet :)
Cheers,
Dan
I hope he didn't burn the place down trying to wire those laserboard sockets! ;D -- Dallas
Anders recently told me that the diorama is nearing completion; he just has been unable to keep up with photo documentation. -- Russ
Time for an update!
Nearing completion? Still a long way to go but no fires caused by lousy wiring so far. I´ll guess with the dump site included sixty percent is done of the diorama.
So why has it taken so long? Well 1/35 scale is much more demanding than my usual work in 1/87 scale. Also I have been quite busy testing new techniques and of course re-doing tons of stuff and secondly been a bit lazy with the camera. Usual scale......not sure I will return to 1/87 scale in the near future at least not for dioramas as I already have quite specific plans for a new one in 1/35 scale. It´s easy to get addicted.
I have changed the concept a bit so intstead of having a guy work on his car in a garage it´s now a small motorcycle repair shop set in the early 1960´s and that means of course a lot more work as well. Have more or less finished the walls for the main building and the add on building except for the texture on the inside and some detailing on the stones on the outside - quite a bit to do here. The first space in the add on building will feature a paint shop with a compressor, spray gun etc. Not really sure what to do with the space next to the paint shop but I have a few ideas - have to see when all walls are up how visible that space will be.
Haven´t started on the small cottage yet that will be located at the very back of the diorama but that should go pretty quickly to finish as I will slice it in half in order to reduce the depth of the diorama and also it looks like the prototype is not very weathered and that means less work as well.
The large grey work desk is from Verlinden but completely re-worked with an open drawer and small shelf - thanks Spencer P. for some great ideas. If I would do it again I would scratchbuild one - a lot easier! The metal shelves are also from Verlinden and are just temporarily in place. The steel work bench, cabinets, shelves etc. arer all scratchbuilt. The Verlinden drill press has also been re-worked. Dallas showed a few neat ideas in his thread that I couldn´t resist to copy - also added a serial no.plate plus a few other details. The black electrical outlets and light switches were custom made by Dave at Vectorcut plus some other parts that will be used later on in the build. Fluorescent lights were provided by Bill Satore at Microlumina and will be installed last. Thanks guys! Still reman things to correct, replace details etc. on these first interior shots.
So far only two walls are permanently installed on the main building. Along the second long wall there will be among other other things a lathe. Maybe a bit too much for a small bike repair shop but let´s say he bought it second hand at a bargain price! ;D. Guess it could come in handy for re-working damaged cylinders etc.
From now on I`ll do the final texturing, coloring etc. on the inside of the walls when I know where everything will be located. Spent a couple of hours on the long wall with the tool board and about one square inch is visible - waist of time.
Some pictures about four times actual size. All sorts of input appreciated ???!
Anders
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South wall much more weathered than the other wall as can be seen in the prototype pic. Stones not finished but I´m working from a reference photo of a different building where there are less speckles on the stones.
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Possible texture for the two small spaces.
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A 1940´s military BMW R 75 is being fixed up to civilian standards for a client. Just a temporary set up with just a few parts not even the floor is done yet. Next a couple of Triumph´s and some military wrecks. We´ll see if I can kitbash a Velocette Thruxton and a Triumph T 120 from all the parts that I have. Almost nothing available in civilian bikes in 1/35 scale. Have so far only found two kits a Triumph from Swash and a BMW from IBG models and they are identical to the military vesions erxcept for the most obvious military parts. If anyone knows about other civilian kits it would be much appreciated.
Pic.9 (http://)
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Hired this guy to to help out with cabinets etc. ;D
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Unfinshed office desk with the local paper dated sometime in 1961.
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Reference pictures used for the tool board. Both from Mario at the Modvid site. Thanks Mario.
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Wow, I'm glad I nudged the thread. That workshop wall is just stunning with the capture. The figure still needs some work though ;D
Russ, better book the chapter.
The update was greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Dan
Beautiful, Anders!
I can see how this scale becomes addicting. But your work is excellent as usual!
Yes, thanks for the update Anders! Excellent progress on a amazing project.
Quote from: Junior on December 08, 2011, 03:44:04 AM
A 1940´s military BMW R 75 is being fixed up to civilian standards for a client. Just a temporary set up with just a few parts not even the floor is done yet. Next a couple of Triumph´s and some military wrecks. We´ll see if I can kitbash a Velocette Thruxton and a Triumph T 120 from all the parts that I have. Almost nothing available in civilian bikes in 1/35 scale. Have so far only found two kits a Triumph from Swash and a BMW from IBG models and they are identical to the military vesions erxcept for the most obvious military parts. If anyone knows about other civilian kits it would be much appreciated.
Wow! :o :P :-[ :-X :-\ :'( >:( :) :D ;D
Yeah, my head is bouncing all around ... impressed, inspired, need to go work on some stuff ... need to fix some stuff after seeing your versions ... man, that's beautiful.
I've heard that the Swash Triumph is quite nice ... also quite expensive. Bronco makes a kit with TWO Triumph 3HW bikes for considerably less:
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/product.php?sn=/BRO00035035
And Mini-Art makes the Harley WLA:
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/product.php?sn=/MIA00035101
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/product.php?sn=/MIA00035080
The Triumph and Harley kits are military versions, but apparently similar to civilian versions ... if you do some surfing you can find some kit reviews, build threads, etc.
Will come back and study all this insanely beautiful work in your shop!
Dallas
Quote from: Junior on December 08, 2011, 03:14:48 AM
The large grey work desk is from Verlinden but completely re-worked with an open drawer and small shelf - thanks Spencer P. for some great ideas. If I would do it again I would scratchbuild one - a lot easier! The metal shelves are also from Verlinden and are just temporarily in place. The steel work bench, cabinets, shelves etc. arer all scratchbuilt. The Verlinden drill press has also been re-worked. Dallas showed a few neat ideas in his thread that I couldn´t resist to copy - also added a serial no.plate plus a few other details. The black electrical outlets and light switches were custom made by Dave at Vectorcut plus some other parts that will be used later on in the build ....
Yeah, that Verlinden bench is a bit of work ... definitely plan on just scratchbuilding one here ...
Noticed the addition of the number plate on your drill press ... like that idea ... also like the orange paint scheme on that, so I might have to reverse-copy you there. Also have to go back and re-paint my steel shelving unit after seeing yours ... mine is way too dull and boring. Also have a bunch more Vectorcut goodies to put to use ... and more to order after seeing Dave's latest offerings.
Think I'll just make a few rambling posts as I come back to re-visit and absorb all the updates ... probably easier than trying to organize all the thoughts! ;D
Meanwhile: Outstanding ... Inspiring ... and "Thanks, I needed that!"
-- Dallas
Anders,
that work is just superb, there is nothing else I can say.
Like Dallas, I am just going back to study the pictures very, very carefully
One thing I can say that might not have been said before, I admire your single minded focus and intensity. A project like this can wear a man down very quickly.
Good thing you have that Lego helper.
Dave
The interior modeling, in particular, is superb but I expected that. It is your forte. As I recall, we hope to publish this model next December. Think anyone will like it? -- Russ
Do we have to wait until next year to see more SBS on the making of these items, ???these are just spectacular! :o :oMind boggling, I guess I'll have to work harder on my 1/32 project with an interior! Oh great,.......................... :'(
MPH
Incredible! The interior details are amazing, especially the paint and weathering on the metal desk and shelves.
Quote from: finescalerr on December 08, 2011, 12:18:25 PM
Think anyone will like it? -- Russ
'fraid not , it's got no trains and it isn't Rio Grande .
Excellent point. I think I'll publish it anyway and give it about 20 pages. Screw 'em. -- Russ
Now, that is a detailed scene, Anders. Wonderful progress. How long did it take teaching the little Danish helper to install all these parts? :)
Thanks very much guys! Much appreciated.... ;D ;D ;D! Mr. Potato Head.....an SBS? Could you be a bit more specific? The tool board and tools only would probably take up a full page.... ;)!
Anders
Hi Russ. Am I to assume the article will be in a december issue 2011 ?? [Please note date change.-- Russ]
I already subscribe, but I am happy to pay for an extra copy the minute it is off the press and then please send it overnight express post, via your personal jet. 20 pages of SBS... brilliant. I'm still trying to get thru the last issue. Congrats to all the contributors.
regards
Mario
http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_lynn_museum_tinwald__nz.html
Anders
I want to see it all, from start to finish of every piece that you make! They are so fantastic! Those books and that metal shelf, and the parts boxes and tool boxes, are they scratch or detailed parts, if so what manufacture are they, give us some more detail.
How did you make the hooks for the peg board? Stuff like that! :o :o
Thanks
MPH
Speechless - amazing - 10 out of 10 in the Wow factor - what make are the ring spanners ? they have a nice shape
Barney
Quote from: Junior on December 08, 2011, 03:48:06 AM
Unfinshed office desk with the local paper dated sometime in 1961.
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I have to go through all of these photos and study everything and ask a ton of questions ...
Here's one: Is that the desk from the Dio-Park Factory Tools set? Thanks! Dallas
Quote from: Junior on December 08, 2011, 03:32:33 AM
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Also ... what did you use for the serial number plates on the drill press and grinder? Decals from Archer? Etched plates from (where?) ... or ??? Thanks! Dallas
Thanks VERY much Barney ;!
Mr. Potato Head,
I will post a couple of SBS real soon.
Barney,
The spanners are from a Factory Tool Set by Dio-Park. They have the right thickness, size numbers etc. contrary to the etched tools available. At least the ones that I have seen are far too thin but that´s just my opinion. Vectorcut tools have the right thickness but can´t be painted with the paints and techniques I´m currently using.
Dallas,
It´s a re-worked Dio-Park desk. Scraped off the wood grain on the drawers. Re-shaped the top of the desk for less overhang and glued a thin piece of styrene sheet to it - saved me the trouble of getting rid of the wood grain. Might give it another color for a better steel look -we´ll see.
The plates for the drill press etc. are transfer decals from an Archer jeep dash board set (9-803). I started with a couple of etched plates but found them a litlle too thick - yes too thick in this case ;D so they ended up on the two compressors (not shown in my pics). So you were right about everything.
Anders
SBS on Tool Board, Spanners & Wrenches.
The tool board was cut from sheet styrene. Rounded the corners a bit and added Philips screw heads from Alliance Modelworks in pre-drilled holes in each corner. Also cut two strips of styrene and made a rack for the screwdrivers etc. and one for the steel brushes.
Humbrol Flat Black as a base coat (spray can).
Airbrushed Humbrol Matt Varnish to protect the base coat from later chipping.
Airbrushed AK Worn Effects and finally a mix of Tamiya Flat Black with a few drops of Flat White.
Chipped away very little paint with a stiff brush and hot water.
Brush and sponge painted tiny stains with a mix of Humbrol 33 Flat Black and 62 Flat Brown enamels and finally some very light washes here and there.
The hooks for the spanners are thin wire bent and cut with the help of an etch mate. First tried stretched sprue but they broke too easily. The rest of the hooks for hammers etc. are basically U-shaped etch pieces found in various handle sets from Royal Model and Verlinden. All tools that only needed a single bent hook like the spanners were glued in place and the hook was added afterwards.
I will here describe how the spanners and wrenches were done as the rest of the tools were done in so many different ways so if anyone is interested in those please let me know and I could do an SBS Part II.
Airbrushed Alclad Gloss Black Primer - this is a must for the chrome finish. Dries in less than an hour. By the way Alclad paints can NOT be used with a brush they are too thin but have great coverage when you use an airbrush. VERY toxic >:(!
For the spanners that I wanted a new look I airbrushed Alclad Chrome. Another option might be Mirra Chrome but I haven´t tried that brand - very expensive at $90.00 a can.
It´s important to spray in a similar pattern as you were using a paint brush - back and forth and all in one go otherwise you´ll end up with a stainless steel finish which I did a couple of times. Keep pressure below 1,5.
Next a coat of Alclad Clear Gloss. The two ends of the spanners were masked with Tamiya tape and the middle part was airbrushed Alclad Stainless Steel. Thís is for the new look were the ends are usually in a chrome finish. Not sure there are any of those in the current pictures but they will appear here and there in the build later on.
The wrenches and the rest of the spanners were airbrushed Alclad Stainless Steel or Semi Mat Aluminum and dirtied up with AK Engine Grime and various other washes. On some of them I also carefully (these are tiny tools) scraped off the paint to reveal the black base paint for a more worn look.
In some cases I also used AK Steel Pigments and a graphite pencil to highlight the edges - same thing but the pencil is of course easier to control.
As for the rest of the tools (metal parts) I also used Humbrol 53 and 191 for brush painting that´s why they are included in one of the pics. I prefer these to Vallejo, Tamiya and other metallic colors but that´s a different story that I might describe in Part II.
This might sound like a real quick job but believe me it takes a lot of time especially with all the screwdrivers, hammers, pliers etc. included. Maybe it´s not worth it but that´s what I did. Hope it all makes sence.
Anders
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Hi Anders thanks for the info on painting, looking at the overall picture of the workbench the thing that I find most intriguing is all the extra bits of parts and clutter the trays with the gears and springs the placement of pieces being worked on, work gloves and rags. I think that this adds even more to the realism of the overall ensemble that the superb quality of the painting of everything.
Michael
I just saved that SBS for a possible future article. -- Russ
Quote from: Junior on December 11, 2011, 02:11:33 AMThis might sound like a real quick job but believe me it takes a lot of time especially with all the screwdrivers, hammers, pliers etc. included. Maybe it´s not worth it but that´s what I did. Hope it all makes sence. Anders
Quote from: DaKra on December 08, 2011, 11:27:56 AM
One thing I can say that might not have been said before, I admire your single minded focus and intensity. A project like this can wear a man down very quickly. Dave
It's certainly worth it. Definitely NOT "quick & easy" ... but all that extraordinary attention to detail (literally) pays off in those overall shots, in which all the bits & pieces "look right" both individually and collectively ...
And, your description of the effort (on JUST those tools) reinforces what Dave said ... it's a really big project and you've focused all the way down to the nitty gritty ... with outstanding results (so far ... no slacking off now!) ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
Thanks again guys ;D!
Need some input here about the roof. Had planned to build a removable roof but now have another idea. First of all a removable roof would mean that it would mostly be sitting somewhere next to the diorama for viewing purposes of the interior. This means that all the nice details rafters etc. on the end walls that are glued to the roof would also be removed and the main building would look rather lame in my opinion. You can also see in the previous pictures that there is already a white horisontal board that starts at the add on building and overlap the main end front wall. That board will fit very nicely to the rafters on the overhang of the roof. This would look very strange with the roof removed.
Here´s what I´m planning right now.
No.1.
Just model a fraction of the inner ceiling in an irregular pattern maybe as little as one or two centimeters just to indicate it´s there. The inner ceiling boards starts right on the first cross beam above the Verlinden shelves. Above that is of course the attic - you can see the attic door on page 11.
No 2.
I would then model the roof along the two end walls and long walls but only a fraction of it again - nothing at the peak of course. Maybe the width of one or two corrugated sheets and the boards supporting them. This would also be in a somewhat irregular pattern as somebody just cut through the roof. I think this would indicate well enough how the roof would have looked. For the add on building I would do the same but probably have a complete roof (tarpaper) over the second space. It´s unlikeley I will model an interior in that space as only the wall at the far back would be visible unless you lean over the diorama and damage the whole thing.... ;D!
No.3.
I could easily make a very thin corrugated sheet that would fit neatley over one or both sides of the roof that I could use as a prop for my outdoor photo sessions.
Have lately seen at various shows that Armour modelers are not hesitant to model a roof like this but it´s of course most unusual at this forum.
What do you say guys...... ????
Anders
I think you should be bold and complete the shop with a fixed roof and cieling, and the perfect interior is viewed only through the windows and doors. That would be hard core! ;D
The cool thing about models is they can look prototypical, but don't have actually be engineered to support the weight or hold up to earth quake or hurricane standards.
So I say do both, build a roof that's removable and still have the rafters and the ceiling tiles visible by building it as a stand alone structure that fits into the roof, sort of like a puzzle piece or a box within a box,, it will accomplish two things: You will be able to show off the awesome interior detail and show off the ceiling detail, too
MPH
I would model the "back" roof (fixed) and then a removable roof on the front.
Rafters would then be fixed.
Then you could fill the attic with more of your wonderful little details!
-Marty
You could mount a video camera with the ability to be rotated outside the dio-then the viewer could look around as if inside. MAybe a periscope lens or something clever. Seems like everyone is using them in trains and RC things and undercover work....24 hour AndersCam on the Web!
Build the roof, set it on fire, and view the interior through the resulting holes.
Seriously, why not either follow Marty's suggestion or build the roof and rafters as a removable unit to allow a clear view of that remarkable interior?
Russ
I thirdly agree with the full removeable roof. I feel the carved/cut away or missing look is trite, and visually annoying/detracting. Plus a completely closeable/removeable roof will help to somewhat protect the interior from dust, fading etc.
M
I also agree that modeling the roof completely and being able to remove it accomplishes both protection and integrity of the model.
A hydraulic hoist in the middle of the shop that could raise the roof could be really cool.
cheers Michael
Okay....thanks very much!
There´s for sure some creative brains at this forum - that´s why I asked ;D! Marty really like your idea due to the fact that the transition between the "back" of the main roof and the add on building is really weird as the add on is higher and also sloping, forgot to mention that yesterday. That´s another reason it´s difficult to make a removable roof with a tight fit.
Just a question Marty -with a detailed attic how would the interior be seen ???? Would appreciate additional info. on your thoughts.
Thanks again everybody,
Anders ;D
Anders
Just catching up on this again. Just a beautiful job. Your detailing is unbelievable. Good to see you back to this project. Sure gives one the incentive to do more.
Jerry
I was thinking the back side of the roof half would be permanent, and the front side removable.
Just having the panels and furring strips to hold the roof together.
The rafters would be in place (or most of them) and that would leave the attic visible, but not what is below it.
I'll see if I can post a pic of what I'm thinking.......
-marty
Yikes... not sure how I lost track of this - I guess it proves that Facebook may actually be useful in one regard. I won't dog pile on with the superlatives - as I think everyone has said it, but this is another one of your excellent signature pieces, Anders. I really like seeing what you've done with the 1:35th scale - and how you have been able to go hog wild with the raft of available stuff, compared to the limitations in some of the other scales (which didn't seem to slow you down). This is a great project and really inspiring. I've been sitting and thinking about what I want to do next, and this really has my brain firing.
Paul
Quote from: Junior on December 11, 2011, 02:11:33 AM
Airbrushed Alclad Gloss Black Primer - this is a must for the chrome finish. Dries in less than an hour. By the way Alclad paints can NOT be used with a brush they are too thin but have great coverage when you use an airbrush. VERY toxic >:(!
For the spanners that I wanted a new look I airbrushed Alclad Chrome. Another option might be Mirra Chrome but I haven´t tried that brand - very expensive at $90.00 a can.
It´s important to spray in a similar pattern as you were using a paint brush - back and forth and all in one go otherwise you´ll end up with a stainless steel finish which I did a couple of times. Keep pressure below 1,5.
Next a coat of Alclad Clear Gloss. The two ends of the spanners were masked with Tamiya tape and the middle part was airbrushed Alclad Stainless Steel. Thís is for the new look were the ends are usually in a chrome finish. Not sure there are any of those in the current pictures but they will appear here and there in the build later on.
The wrenches and the rest of the spanners were airbrushed Alclad Stainless Steel or Semi Mat Aluminum and dirtied up with AK Engine Grime and various other washes. On some of them I also carefully (these are tiny tools) scraped off the paint to reveal the black base paint for a more worn look.
Very convincing results, Anders!
Where do you buy the Alclad products, by the way?
Thanks very much Jerry and Paul :) :)!
Hauk good to see you here. I bought the Alclad paints here: http://www.modelsforsale.com/ and here http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/index.php?manufacturers_id=546.
Check out the excellent Alclad site for color charts etc. (can´t get to it right now) ??? ???! Coming up soon SBS on the other tools and some of the details.
Anders ;D
PS. Got it now http://alclad2.com/
Time for an update again! It´s been a couple of months and literally thousands of parts added - if one includes all the parts for the bikes as well. When I look at these oversized pictures I can see quite a few things that needs to be corrected. It´s a great aid with these kind of pictures but a lot of the things that "needs" to be fixed are not visible when viewed under normal circumstances but we all seem to do it in any case.
This is a massive project and almost too much but it´s still a lot of fun to work with. My next project (also in 1/35 scale) won´t have a tool in sight. The 1930´s Machine Shop, Krakow´s Auto Co. and this shop is certainly more then enough.
Anyway main shop area and spray paint room are almost done except for the small office corner in the main shop that will have a desk with a telephone, manuals etc. This has to wait until the front wall(s) are in place. A little detail here.....custom mixed paints didn´t have any labels on the cans in the sixties so that saved me quite a bit of work in the paint shop area.
Sorry for the crappy quality on some of the pictures but no LED´s have been installed yet and also in about two months I will have a photo session outdoors and hopefully the diorama is then finished and mounted in a frame together with the dump site.
As usual all sorts of input welcome.
Anders ???
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Paint shop.
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This small space is very much still in the works and will feature forgotten old tools etc. from another decade.
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A BMW R 75 from LionRoar with an after market kit from Sovereign built according to the instructions. "This one was just purchased from Germany for about a hundred bucks and will be scrapped for parts". Those were the prices in the sixties - nobody wanted those ugly bikes. Three heavily converted ´military Harley´s from MiniArt and lastly a converted military Triumph from Bronco.
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The wall to the very left will be flush with the still unbuilt small cottage.
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How'd you paint your engines and metallics? I'll be starting mine tomorrow, and any tips would be appreciated.
Holy crap! Two pages of new pix with tons of stuff ... too much to digest all at once. Love it! Will be back to study and enjoy. Meanwhile ... WOW! :o -- Dallas
OK Anders, I admit you are getting pretty good at this ;D
No real point in saying just how good this is, the detail and patience to create these scenes is pretty amazing.
Being really picky here and its really only out of jealousy about your skills but not certain about colour of the floorboards ................ maybe in my mind I would have expected them to greyer, dirtier, stained more or it could be just that I have not visited old workshops in Sweden ;)
Holy bleeping sh**!! .......just dumb-struck.
Astonishing, Impressive, Fantastic. :)
Dette er utrolig bra, Anders. Blir bare målløs.
Disse bildene kan vi studere lenge, lenge, og stadig oppdage noen nye detaljer.
Man sitter og har mange ideer man vil realisere, og plutselig er det noen som tar det hele 10 skritt lenger.
Ove
Bloody Hell! ....................... puts me to shame. It appears I'll never be able to offer an excuse again.
Brilliant.
Nice. Just one question how'd you get the roof off a real
cycle shop? :)
Really great. Love all the little scenes
Marty
Wow that is really cool. The detail is unbelievable.
Jerry
Satisfactory. -- Russ
So that's why its been a bit quiet you have been building a collection of bikes - this building is a bit like a book with every wall giving a story of its own
fantastic work - keep it coming.
Barney
This workshop is one of those projects that justify a centerfold in the Modelers Annual. Absolutely amazing!
Stunning! I don't know what it is that you think needs fixing, because it all looks great to me!
What I really like is the fact that, despite a MASSIVE amount of detail, it doesn't look overly cluttered or "busy". I've seen too many models with piles of details that are visually overwhelming and don't quite look "right". Yours definitely looks right!
"Amen" to what Ray just said! Lots of times you see all sorts of un-related details in and around modeled buildings, few of which ever fit the scene. Anders' shop is FULL of all the stuff that BELONGS there ... and it looks like the natural mess that accumulates in a busy work place. Any little corner of this shop would make an impressive diorama by itself. The more you study it, the more you discover. And every one of those hundreds or thousands of parts has been carefully painted and suitable weathered. Mind boggling! (But very pleasing to the eyes)
BTW, I'm curious about Anders' "next project" that "won't have any tools" ... wonder if he'll go into withdrawal? Or maybe just tremendous relief at not having yet another dang wrench to paint! ;D -- Dallas
The garage needs chains, antlers, and a really hideous, phony looking wash of orange paint to represent rust (especially on the wood and stone parts). What's wrong with you guys? -- ssuR
Thanks very much guys and as usual much appreciated ;D! Special thanks to Barney for helping out with the lathe and great fun to see the Norwegian language here!
Gordon.
The final step for the floorboards isn´t done yet. I usually wait until I know where everything will have it´s final place so I don´t put a small dirt pile where there eventually might be an oil drum etc. More stains will be added and finally sifted dirt (powder like) will be rubbed in between and on the surface of the boards to get a dusty look but it won´t make them gray. A few subtle footprints will also be added - just waiting for my new little "toy" from Calibre 35.
Bexley.
On page 15 there´s info on the metallic paints used for the bikes and other parts with a metal finish. In addition to the ones shown I also used
Polished Aluminum. Some chrome parts have tiny chipping done with a 5/0 brush, Abteilung oils etc. Finally I used washes and filters from A.K. Interactive such as Engine Grime, Engine Oil, Fuel Stains and some that I made up myself.
Dallas.
Next diorama will be urban with maybe one tool - a sledge hammer ;D!
Anders
Epic.
Do this ... if you can stand it! Go look at the MUCH LARGER pix on Mario's site:
http://modvid.com.au/html/body_anders_malmberg.html
It'll blow yer mind! -- Dallas
Indeed. Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Anders, I don't want to be "that guy", but in the spirit of these forums, I have to say something.
First off, your work is fantastic, and as several have pointed out, what makes the shop so impressive is the believability of the stuff. So many models just look like things have been placed randomly to create clutter, but you have none of that.
Second, it took me a long time to figure what bothered me, and its the wood floor. The color is great, but its too uniform. The floor in my grandfather's shop had a dark worn path in front of the workbench from the constant back and forth movement. And there were visible paths to the most used machines, parts bins, etc. In a way the floor revealed the history of movement in the shop, and your floor is missing this chapter in the story.
For what that's worth...
Eric --
Anders mentioned that the floor isn't finished and hinted at things to come in that regard:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1453.msg32311#msg32311
Cheers,
Dallas
Wonderful progress, Anders. The bikes, but also all the environment around them, are totally awesome.
Thanks again guys ;D much appreciated!
Eric your idea of the worn areas is great hadn´t thought of that and will add that as well.
Anders
Anders, as they say here in France, "It's top moumoute!" ;D ;D ;D ::) :P ;)
Franck
Sorry about that - thanks for pointing it out Dallas.
Skitbra!
Are you bringing this beauty to Norra Sandby in October?
Would love to see the project live!
Anders,
Apologies - I am late to the table... I didn't see this one come across the finish line. I think one of your wrenches is crooked.
Other than that, Wow. Just pure Wow. I could sit and list my "favorite" little details for an hour - but to repeat the thoughts of others - the fact that there is this much detail in this, but to have it all come together and fit so well... amazing execution...
The finish on the hot water heater... the paint booth and the tarp... the work on the tools - rubber handles, different screw drivers, you name it... the pipe and potato chip bag... the bikes - individually and as a grouping...
You should stick with 1:35 - it suits you.
Thanks for this - I second the centerfold idea! ;D
Thanks very much Franck, Hauk and Paul ;D!
Hauk...I´ll bring it to the meeting in Norra Sandby if it doesn´t collide with the Scale Model Challenge in Eindhoven, Holland which is also in October.
Anders
P.S. Short update on further progress soon.
Quote from: Junior on March 13, 2012, 04:22:00 AM
Thanks very much Franck, Hauk and Paul ;D!
Hauk...I´ll bring it to the meeting in Norra Sandby if it doesn´t collide with the Scale Model Challenge in Eindhoven, Holland which is also in October.
Anders
P.S. Short update on further progress soon.
The Norra Sandby meeting is Saturday the 6th of October, and Scale Model Challenge in Eindhoven is Sunday the 14th. So I guess that means there is a good chance to see you in Norra Sandby!
Really looking forward to the update as well.
Regards, Hauk
Junior - I keep forgetting to ask what kind of a paint set up you have... you obviously work through a myriad of colors in a project like this, and are also working with some pretty toxic stuff (Alclad and some of the others?). How do you cycle through efficiently, and how large is your area? Are you running multiple guns and cleaning some while working with others?
Thanks - just wondering ;D
Hey Paul,
I will take some pictures of my paint set up etc. and include them in my next post.....within a week or so. I do use multiple airbrushes one Iwata Eclipse and an old single action Badger but only because the Alclad paints requires very careful cleaning otherwise you have metallic pigments on your next paint job, so the Badger is designated for the Alclad paints.
I try to airbrush as much as possible in one session as I hate the cleaning part >:(. Starting with the lighter colors and end the session with the darkest ones also means less cleaning between different colors but I´m sure you know all this.
Anders
Anders, your model is splendid.
Guys....time for an update again.
Seems like it takes about two monts between these updates mainly because I have a habit of not taking any pictures until I´m basically happy with the progress of this massive project. Anyway not that much work left.....everything is done except the scenery and detailing around the bulidings and dump site. All details are done except for two more figures. I will wright some short comments to the 27 pictures that I will post here and then as usual questions and all sorts of comments are welcome.
Anders
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Buildings etc. temporarly in place in the primed base. The final size came to 105 x 55 cm. I sliced the cottage at a slight angle facing the back in order to keep the width at 55 cm so I can move it myself without any problems. The weight was also kept at a minmum using almost no wood except for the MDF used around the box.
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The cottage is kept in good condition as a contrast to the shop and there will be a painter who is more or less finished with a new coat of paint for the white trim. Sasha The Welding Girl from Industria Mekanicha will be the owners girlfriend and she keeps everything neat around the cottage...... ;D.
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Welcome mat by Dave Krakow - Vectorcut. In Swedish of course ;D!
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Reference pic. for the roof and smokestack.
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Detail of the bike shop roof.
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Detail of the south wall with obviousley more weathering than the north side.
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The last little space finished.
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The boss´ helper hard at work. A reworked WWII US Sailor from Royal Model (hands from Hornet and a reworked cap).
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The office area. Magazines might be to Russ´ liking ??? ;D ;D.
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Reference pic. for the Honda mopeds from DioPark.
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Two mopeds in the DioPark set so I made one to look brand new. This will belong to a young girl (still in the works ) that have stopped by for gas.
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Couldn´t resist to make one of them as a complete wreck.
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Another reworked military bike from Bronco. Please note the chromed skull..... :o!
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The complete collection of bikes. Two of them can be seen in the shop. We´ll see if I use all of them.
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One of the military bikes temporarly at the dump site.
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The painter having his lunch break. A reworked NATO figure - don´t remember the manufacturer.
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J-O the boss. A reworked Italian WWII welder from Royal Model with a new head and hand from Hornet. He will be chatting with his girlfriend Sasha about welding issues. Michael F. if you see this hope I´ll get her soon.
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J-O again from another angle.
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Just a couple of experiments with hairspray thechnique versus A.K. Worn Effect.
Reference pic.
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That´s all for today. Next update will be the finished diorama.
Cheers,
Anders
Staggering Anders, just staggering ..... what else can I say
Magnificent renditions of everything Anders all the way down to the tire tracks in the sand. Beautiful work!
Anders, that is just great work. The motorcycle collection is superb.
However, in the photo of the shop with the "boss' helper" working on the bike, his hand on the floor (with the wrist watch) just looks too long from the wrist to the knuckles. Kind of distorted or mutated.
Thanks for all the photos.
8)
Gonna need some time to soak in all the neat details. Wow!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 29, 2012, 11:35:39 AM
Gonna need some time to soak in all the neat details. Wow!
Same here! I can enjoy those 27 pix one per day for almost a month and still not soak it all in (but I'm gonna come back many times and try!) ;D Very inspiring.
-- Dallas
If I can't publish that model I will hang myself. A couple of photos were indistinguishable from 1:1 scale. Most satisfactory.
By the way, Anders, I have scheduled your HO garage/shop for the December Modelers' Annual.
Russ
Need to go back and study these all over again. So much detail to take in at one time. Excellent.
Jerry
Wow! Absolutely stunning work!
Wonderful work, Anders!
It is good to see this amazing project broken into little photo bits. There is sooo much going on and it's a lot to comprehend.
The two month are absolutely worth the wait.
Its all to much to take in one go - 2 days on and I'm still finding detail - lovely work and attention to detail I have worked in places just like this and stored all those bits in the same way you never know it might be useful one day they never was but that's life ! superb just keep it coming but in smaller doses !!
Barney
Thanks very much guys MUCH appreciated!
Dave.
Thanks for pointing out the hand. No problem to re-work that and it shall be done. A scalpel and Magic Sculp is all it takes. As can be seen on the box art for the figure the reason I re-placed the left hand was because I didn´t think it was sculpted very well and of course I ended up with another funny one. The right hand obviousley had to go as well otherwise my guy wouldn´t have been able to work on the bike the way I wanted him to do.
A couple of people have asked by private e-mails how the two mopeds were painted and as it was a pretty complex task I could just as well post an SBS here at the forum if there´s interest. Please let me know.
Again thanks very much guys!
Pic.1 [em(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FWestlake%2520Forum%2520%2520Final%2520Pictures%2520May%2F537.jpg&hash=e1c4ed6651e703ef1a55197330a2fce2bed2d7b2)ail][/email]
Anders
Great work!
I really, really hope to see this in person in October...
Regards, Hauk
You're right Anders, that original hand looked very poor. I think by just shortening the distance between wrist and knuckles will work.
I think we would all enjoy reading your SBS on painting the mopeds. Thanks
8)
I'd like to see a SBS on painting the mopeds.
Bill Martinsen
Thanks Hauk....see you there in October and bring as much as you can carry including the loco!
SBS for the 1958 Honda C100 Mopeds. Refer to the pictures on page 20 in this thread.
First of all this kit from DioPark is incredibly detailed and when checking against the original I can´t find anything that they have missed. Even the tiny 50cc engine is complete although it´s barley visible.
The "New Moped"
1. Assembled according to the instructions however I didn´t glue the wheels, turn lights, knee pad (not sure what it´s called in English) in place yet.
2. Air brushed everything except the lights with Alclad Gloss Black Base and then with Alclad Chrome.
3. Brush painted the tires with a mixture of Humbrol flat Black and Tan. Enamels and thinner will make the paint flow nicely around the rims contrary to acrylics. When dry you can use acrylics as it´s not so critical to get close to the rims. A mixture of Vallejo Black and Sunny Skin was used for the final coats to get a nice semi gloss finish.
4. Started to mask the areas that I wanted to keep in a Chrome finish while air brushing the green coat but gave up - it´s just too small and even the smallest sized Tamiya tape is very difficult to line up accurately. So what to do? Had several 25 year old Humbrol gloss paint cans and made a few tests with brush painting those. Believe it or not these paints flows beautifully and on these tiny parts they look perfectly air brushed.
5. Brush painted the turn and rear lights with a very thin mix of Humbrol gloss (red, orange etc.) to keep them transparent. Painted the seat with mixture of Vallejo White and Grey. When dry I gave it a wash of Humbrol Light Grey to outline the details in the seat. After decaling I air brushed the completed moped with Alclad Acrylic Gloss varnish.
6. The bag was painted in a similar way as the seat. The camera was air brushed Alclad Polished Aluminum. A light spray from a can of Semi Mat Black (an excellent paint I buy at a car parts shop) was allowed to dry for a few minutes and then using Mineral Spirits and a 10/0 brush some of the paint was removed to reveal parts in the Polished Aluminum finish. The lens was painted with a thin mix of Humbrol Dark Blue and a final coat of Vallejo Gloss varnish.
The "Wrecked Moped".
1. Air brushed everything in the same way as for the "New" one but this time with Alcald Polished Aluminum.
2. Wheels were also done in the same way as for the "New" one. The missing front wheel ended up in the shop. Made quite a few dents in the "knee pad" with a soldering iron.
3. Next I air brushed a coat of Alclad Acrylic Gloss varnish to protect the Polished Aluminum paint from the weathering procedures.
4. Brush painted the dark and light blue areas with Humbrol enamels. Before completely dry I removed paint in select areas with Mineral Spirits and made scratches with a needle. The Polished Aluminum now showed through here and there in a nice way. Added the decals.
5. Rust was painted using paints and washes from Humbrol, A.K. Interactive, artists oils, MIG Abteilung oils etc. Final weathering was done with various pigments.
6. The seat was painted with Vallejo Red and scratches were made with a scalpel. By pushing the scalpel quite hard into the seat and then bend upwards I think I got the look of a vinyl seat that have been abused with a knife. Black washes and some dry brushing finished the seat.
This is as much as I can remember for now regarding these two Mopeds.
Anders
Anders,
it looks like I will be there to critise it from all angles. Fantastic work !!!!
Will we meet on the Saturday before the show ??
Jacq
Quote from: jacq01 on June 02, 2012, 10:37:08 AM
Anders,
it looks like I will be there to critise it from all angles. Fantastic work !!!!
Will we meet on the Saturday before the show ??
Jacq
Which show are we talking about ?
Nick
Whoa! Until I read your SBS and went back to look at the photos, I didn't realize that the "new" moped had been custom painted. I thought it was an expensive, pre-finished diecast model! Very impressive work!
Nick,
it is the Scale Model Challenge http://www.scalemodelfactory.nl/smc01.html (http://www.scalemodelfactory.nl/smc01.html) in Veldhoven
( near Eindhoven) 0n 14 October
Jacq
Quote from: jacq01 on June 03, 2012, 12:19:27 AM
Nick,
it is the Scale Model Challenge http://www.scalemodelfactory.nl/smc01.html (http://www.scalemodelfactory.nl/smc01.html) in Veldhoven
( near Eindhoven) 0n 14 October
Jacq
Isn't that the same weekend as the American Train Show in Switzerland you are booked to do ? If so , do I take it that due to you present situation you have had to cancel it ?
It looks quite tempting , I wonder if Remora Island could float over there ?
Nick
Nick,
I also realised it is the same weekend. I filled the forms for Adliswil as this will be the 15th and last convention held with some special guests.
This means I will miss seeing Anders's and Hauk's work in Eindhoven. :'( :'(
Jacq
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 03, 2012, 01:59:24 AM
I wonder if Remora Island could float over there ?
Nick
Not at its current weight, words such as
stone, sinks & like come to mind.
Try the Russians, they have some good heavy lift helicopters ;)
Quote from: gfadvance on June 03, 2012, 02:31:49 AM
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 03, 2012, 01:59:24 AM
I wonder if Remora Island could float over there ?
Nick
Not at its current weight, words such as stone, sinks & like come to mind.
Try the Russians, they have some good heavy lift helicopters ;)
I think I might . I don't think my back can take the strain for much longer !
Just to get a few things straight here. Hauk and myself are meeting up at an N.G. meet not far from where I live here in Sweden and that´s the weekend prior to the show in Eindhoven. I will be in Eindhoven as well but I´m not sure I will bring the diorama because that means a seven hour drive and the show is only for one day. I most likley hop on a flight but it´s too bad I won´t be seeing you there Jacques.
Nick....I can guarantee the show is fantastic if you plan to attend.
Anders
No worries about Nick he fell asleep at our Phoenix meeting yesterday and as far as I know he is still in a corner somewhere !! But he is forgiven this time because the floating island is getting better by the day "mind blowing stuff" the island that is - not Nick last seen going in the wrong direction on the M6 motorway possibly still asleep !
Barney
QuoteNick last seen going in the wrong direction on the M6 motorway possibly still asleep !
I hope he will be home in time to join me for the show in Switzerland
Jacq
Quote from: Barney on June 03, 2012, 04:22:28 AM
No worries about Nick he fell asleep at our Phoenix meeting yesterday and as far as I know he is still in a corner somewhere !! But he is forgiven this time because the floating island is getting better by the day "mind blowing stuff" the island that is - not Nick last seen going in the wrong direction on the M6 motorway possibly still asleep !
Barney
At least I didn't snore . I caught myself just in time ! Maybe it was something to do with the rivetting conversation . Literally , they were talking about rivets , and who makes the better ones , Tichy or Grandt Line . That and a pint of beer at lunchtime was enough to send anyone off to the land of nod !
Nick
( From my hotel room in Carlisle ! ) [ Look it up on a map to get the joke .]
Quote from: Junior on June 03, 2012, 03:42:01 AM
Just to get a few things straight here. Hauk and myself are meeting up at an N.G. meet not far from where I live here in Sweden and that´s the weekend prior to the show in Eindhoven. I will be in Eindhoven as well but I´m not sure I will bring the diorama because that means a seven hour drive and the show is only for one day. I most likley hop on a flight but it´s too bad I won´t be seeing you there Jacques.
Nick....I can guarantee the show is fantastic if you plan to attend.
Anders
Anders ,
The show does look very tempting , but it looks as if I am being posted elsewhere for that weekend . Can't you get the organisers to change the dates !
By the way . The diorama is looking quite nice now ! ( Us Brits pride ourselves in being masters of the understatement ! )
Actually it is bloody fantastic . I like what you've done with the Royal Model figure with the mug in his hand . I've had one for a year or two but haven't worked out how to use him yet , so yours is good inspiration .
I can't recall you telling us , but where did you get the pantiles on the roof from ? Would they be made by Juweela , by any chance ?
Nick
Seems to be a busy weekend for most of us! Maybe I´ll see you at the Euromilitaire in Folkestone ???? Yes, the tiles are fom Juweela and so are the bricks for the chimney and the bricked walls on the building.
Anders
Hi guys!
Time for an update - I´ll guess this diorama is more or less finished now. A few things remains like pouring some water in the ditch to the very left, install LED lights in the removable roofs and a little touch up here and there.
As usual all sorts of comments welcome.
Anders
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The painter having his lunch break.
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Sign designed by Christian BLKN - Thanks again!
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Here in Flanders (Belgium) we say: "benauwelijk". It meens scary but in a positive way. It's so good it becomes scary ;D. Showed it to the wife and she had that look on here face like "why are you showing me picture of a dumpster, ..." AMAZING!!
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Testing a couple of figures. The little girl has stopped by with her new moped to get some gas and is wondering if J.O the boss can make it go faster. With or without figures.....I´m not sure yet. What do you think guys?
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This guys hand/wrist has now been fixed.
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Close up of the typical Swedish gas pump from the 1960´s.
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THE END
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Doh, ...um...ah...eh...uh.....pffft...
WOW! (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clicksmilies.com%2Fs1106%2Faktion%2Faction-smiley-077.gif&hash=d79ec5eb81991b62390f567ca8164b71795bdf57)
Hi Anders,
will you take this to the Scale Model Challenge in Veldhoven coming October ?
Last night I visited a club evening and several guys are busy with some nice models.
Jacq
Anders,
that is simply breath-taking, the amount of work and the consistency of the quality is just unbelievable.
Ditto the above comments and brick-falling. I would vote for the figures. This is very much a living scene. Spectacular.
How heavy is it?
Congratulations Anders!
There is very little that "gives it away" that it is a model.
A spectacular build!
-Marty
Quote from: gfadvance on August 22, 2012, 06:43:49 AM
Anders,
that is simply breath-taking, the amount of work and the consistency of the quality is just unbelievable.
I've got to agree with Gordon's comment. So many individual pieces and all of them done to such a high level. Spectacular.
Bill Martinsen
Anders, Wunderbar!
I too would keep the figures. I can hear them talking now and the explanation he is giving her.
8)
All what the others say plus a big superb Wow - I have learnt so much from the techniques and the way this model has come together every part of it tells a story
Barney
What a KILLER!
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Genius execution.
So much to take in. I love a diorama I could spend hours reading over.
Cheers,
Dan
Anders
Absolutely wonderful scene! The details and placing of all the components are so natural, like a real yard everything looks like it gathered there over years or grew there on it's own. Great stuff!
wonderful regards kim
WOW
Im speechless. Imagine if Anders and Mr Doan had to put their minds together and build one large diorama.
Still trying to figure out what the heck to say here ... meanwhile, not bad ... not bad at all! ;) -- Dallas
Anders,
real shame that the end has come! Thank you for your posting!
... of course, I'm not the only one looking forward to your next project ;)
Hello Andres,
Congratulations on this exceptionally excellent diorama.
The greatest but for me nothing seems to be missing and could not be added together.
Completed just perfect.
Respekt!
So where do you go from here, Anders?
Regards, Hauk
He .. could .. follow the others on this forum to 1:16 scale .... now .. that's a scary thought!!
Another fine diorama. Your work is just wonderful.
Jerry
Thanks very much guys.......much appreciated ;D! Great to see some new guys here as well.
Chuck. The diorama is not very heavy (9 kilos). Did everything to keep it as light as possible but it´s kind of awkward to handle because of the length (110 cm).
By the way Mario has been kind enough to post many large format pictures of the build at his Modvid site if anyone is interested.
http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_anders_bike_shop.html
Thanks again everybody,
Anders
The realism of this scene is amazing, Anders. The characters in particular. Fantastic.
This has been an amazing build, one that I have been and will re-visit again and again.
My compliments !
Looking forward to your next project.
PS Despite the awkward handling, I truly hope you will find a way to take it to Veldhoven.
Thanks very much Fredéric and Marc! Veldhoven.......I will most likely be there with or without the Bike Shop.
Anders
Quote from: Junior on August 27, 2012, 05:10:54 AM
Thanks very much Fredéric and Marc! Veldhoven.......I will most likely be there with or without the Bike Shop.
Anders
I'd prefer "with" ;) ;D
Hi guys,
MAYBE a final little project for the Bike Shop ????
Still have one of these Tamiya kits. The first one was cannibalized for parts and many can be seen in the scrap yard. Up front are the fenders, hood, doors, bumpers etc. The engine, wheels and much more are scattered about.
Now...I´m thinking of turning this into a nice little car for the shop. Have a nice upgrade PE set from Hauler as well. I would build it with an open bed (no canvas) and have a nice selection of parts on the bed. The J.O. Ekdahl signs coold be printed on decal paper and placed on the doors.
Any of the two attached paint combinations are kind of nice in my opinion. This little car could appear in various pictures either in the front yard or the scrap yard.
As it´s quite a lot of work I´m wondering if it´s just OVERKILL and not worth it. Would appreciate a couple of opinions.
Anders
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I kinda like the diorama as it is, nice and balanced.
However the little car could be a nice project on itself and I would love to see your version of it.
As for the color of the car, I would choose a civilian color e.g. the white with black fenders.
Looking at the pic below, one spot you maybe could place the car without a big impact on the diorama, is next the "white" building in front of the military Harley.
Quote from: Junior on August 22, 2012, 03:20:53 AM
THE END
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Just my 2 cents
;D
Quote from: Junior on May 29, 2012, 02:33:35 AM
The complete collection of bikes. Two of them can be seen in the shop. We´ll see if I use all of them.
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Hi Anders,
just a short question. Could you tell me which kits you used as a basis for the different bikes above ?
Thanks,
Marc
Hi Marc and thanks very much for your opinion..... :)!
These are the bikes.
3 Bronco 3HW Military Triumph´s. (up front and colors: burgundy, violet and dark blue).
3 Miniart WWII Harley Davidson´s (at the back and colors: yellow, black and black).
1 Miniart WWII Harley Davidson (to the right and built as the military version).
1 LionRoar BMW R75 built as the military version with an upgrade kit from Sovereign (in the middle to the right).
Many extra kits were scrapped for parts and were also useful for modifying handle bars etc. etc.
Anders
Anders --
I like the idea of the truck ... like the figures, which can be moved about (if they aren't glued in place!) ... the truck adds a "dynamic" aspect to the diorama ... you can put it in different places at different times to suggest activity: loading or unloading some things in the yard ... stopping in at the office ... heading out .. and, of course, you can remove it at any time, so it wouldn't "change" the dio itself.
Cheers,
Dallas
I agree with Marc and Dallas, not because the diorama needs a truck but because you probably will build a superb model and I'd like to see it. You could place it on the diorama sometimes and display it separately at others. Basically it's just inspirational to watch your models come together. -- Russ
I say go for the truck! I think it will look great on this diorama, and could be useful on others as well. Besides that, I just like to watch you build things.
Bill Martinsen
Thanks for the list with the bikes !!
Marc
This diorama has some serious flaws... the boss's coffee should have one spoon of sugar, not two. The painter is eating someone else's lunch. And I think I saw a sparkplug that was gapped improperly. Clearly you will have to scrap this and start over. ;)
Seriously, awesome diorama! Massively cluttered yet realistically so, something that is not easily achieved. Everything looks great.
An inspiring work Anders, every aspect exceptional. And my opinion is, do the truck.
Thanks Ray and Chester and thanks to all of you who voted on the little shop truck project! The build will start soon and then we´ll see what color it will be. Also thanks to everybody who sent neat ideas and pictures of civilian versions of the "Tilly" in private p.m´s. :) :) :) :)
Anders
Final update.........!
Decided not to build the little shop truck and went for two Vespa Popolino´s by Diopark and a new figure. Those scooters were very common in Sweden in the 1960´s.
The figure sitting on the bike is new and is a WWII guy that received a youth head from Hornet. Also repainted the little girls dress and poured some "water" in the ditch.
Anders
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It must have taken at least an hour to build that diorama. -- Russ
Dang, you have been busy. Love all the bright colors of the bikes and figures.