Hoping that someone here will help ?
Been playing around with alternatives to Silverwood stain ( which appears to completely un-obtainable in Europe)which look as if they could be worth pursuing , but I could do with some base line info on Silverwood itself
Ideally what I would like is a kind person to stain some strips of bass wood and post some pictures,
One strip I stained bass wood
One strip with one coat of Silverwood
One strip with two coats
One strip with three coats
Just trying to get a handle on the strength of Silverwood and how multiple coats change the colour
Thanks for any assistance
I've been working with Silverwood and other stains (see my previous topic on fading), and put together a test panel of various stains to test the fading possibilites. The panel is exposed to flourescent lights about 16 hours/day. The strip of tape is used to prevent light from reaching part of the sample. I'll pull the tape in about 6 months to see how the fading goes.
-Jerry
Younger ,
Thanks for posting that picture...... Exactly what I was hoping for and very useful & informative
will it hurt when you pull the band-aid off :o :o :'( :'( :'(
please say no ::)
MPH
Here is the test panel after two months. It is apparent that silverwood by itself fades rapidly. When used with other stains, not so much. I'll post another shot in a couple of months.
-Younger
Younger thanks for the update .
My tests continue using Tamiya paint as a substitute for Silverwood , started with their X-20 thinners but switched to Tamiya Lacquer thinners after a lot of advice & guidance from Marc.
Getting closer to the effect I am looking for with old worn wood but still struggling for a "bleached" wood effect ............... not that bleached wood is something I come across a lot in the UK :)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCopyofFordModelAA082.jpg&hash=6ecd3936f1248b6dda470cc788ea82be8c93e5ac)
Gordon that looks good.
Have you tried a swipe with fine sandpaper?
I know acetone lightens silverwood.......
Marty
p. s. any word on my wrench question
Is Silverwood just a stain, or is it some kind of chemical treatment? Or both?
Ray
I think like most people do that Silverwood is a combination of Alcohol & India Ink or a black ink of some kind.
He could add something else to it but I think is just the amounts he uses to get the color.
Jerry
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on November 04, 2012, 04:20:55 PM
Is Silverwood just a stain, or is it some kind of chemical treatment? Or both?
Silverwood appears to be just a stain, much like India ink or shoe dye with an alcohol base. I see no chemical reaction with it, unlike Weather-It.
Bill Martinsen
OSHA requires vendors to have copies of the MSDS sheets for any chemical they sell on hand for the purchaser to read before buying. Ask for it the next time you visit your dealer and watch his/her reaction when it isn't there. Also vendors are required to provide them when asked. Se your local safety and health officer for the section of the law which applies and quote it when a vendor refuses to hand over the sheets. If you don't get a positive reply, just forward your request to the local office, and I assure you the vendor will give you a reply once they get their a*** chewed out.
BTW, my local OSHA rep was a college chum of mine. Last inspection was conducted over lunch at a Pub in W********, VA.
Hi guys, attached is the test panel after 7 1/2 months. As you can see the Silverwood faded badly, along with some others, but other weathering/staining colors seem to be impervious to the flourescent lights 16 hours/day.
Very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to do and post this.
For my personal use, I like #10 and will have to try that.
I was using India ink but the leather dye looks better.
These tests are very revealing, thanks.
Here's a question I've had for decades: Why Kiwi shoe dye instead of India ink? How does the appearance differ in the beginning and over time?
Also, in my experience with alcohol/ink, as the wood yellows over time the combination of the black/gray ink and yellowed wood eventually results in a brownish appearance. So the change is not so much from fading but from the color change of the wood itself. I discussed that with Jerry a couple of times but neither of us knows how to prevent it.
I have mentioned this on the forum in the past. Maybe this time somebody knows the answer.
Russ
On EBay, there is a vendor who calls himself Dr. Ben. He sells an alcohol based stain which he brags is a direct replacement for Folquil's "Driftwood". Has anyone out there any experience with his products? He peddles stains, something paint like, and powders which he says can be used like chalks or mixed with plaster. If I get any, I'll request the MSDS sheets and post my findings.
I've used blends of industrial grade alcohol Aniline Dyes for years with results I'm happy with. Bought them long ago when running the cabinet shop and kept them when I retired.
I tried it. (I got mine directly from Doctor Ben)
I did not like it.
It "seemed" like a mix of alcohol and acrylic paint.
It would settle/separate very quickly.
Also it was very opaque.
Your actual mileage may differ.
The answer is "Sweet n Sour"
Vinegar and Steel wool
Cheap, easy and stinky! But it don't fade
MPH
I've tried the vinegar and steel wool routine at least three separate times. I find it to be overly variable in its effect. I've given up on it. Consistency is one of the reasons I like Silverwood.
Bill M.
I'm reading about personal preference in this thread but nothing about a non-fading stain with a coloration like SilverWood. Also nothing about how to prevent wood from yellowing and changing the color from gray to brown. Jerry's post was about the result of an experiment. The replies have been opinion. Has anyone actually experimented with anything to come up with a viable, long lasting SilverWood alternative?
Eons ago I tried oil paint stains and they seemed to endure. They also took forever to dry and smelled funny ....
Russ
Yes! S&S changes! It breaks down in the bottle over time, that's why I start a new every year!
The key is to shake it up completely and strain out the bigger pieces, and with controlled amounts in a smaller jar you will get very constant colors. By mixing two batches, you'll get a third color
I only use S&S
MPH
MPH always has lots of vinegar around! Pickles go great with Potato Salad!
As of late I (with Gordon) have found Tamiya acrylics worked "wet" with Tamiya lacquer thinner or Mr. Hobby Color Thinner, have yielded wonderful scale wood results.
Per Olav Lund uses Vallejo acrylics worked "wet".
Both create an opaque stain/wash that giveas a dead flat and solid appearance to the wood. No worries about eventual wood discoloration. It's a lot of work, somewhat messy, stinks if using the lacquer thinners...and maybe not suited to everything...but the- bomb, for detail pieces, dioramas, and smaller structures.
Marc
Finally, a relevant post. -- Russ
G'morning all,
I'm gonna use this water soluble wood stain "Silbergrau 14" (http://www.hermann-sachse.de/shop/product_info.php?info=p6_Beize-wasserl--Gruppe-1--Holztoene-.html), offered by this provider:
http://www.hermann-sachse.de/ (http://www.hermann-sachse.de/)
(no english translation available - sorry for the inconvenience)
I haven't arranged a long term experimental run yet (like younger did) , but some early results can be seen here ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F07-07-blog%2F07-07-0007-enger-radius-2f-p1040500.jpg&hash=f5aa1c5a29bd64483f1dfa86187448f8dc21eb3e)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F03%2F07-07-0024-CAT-forklift-schlepper-P1010382.jpg&hash=98a0c21a5acf1221ae94a3e74de9bf0c03cc4264)
... this wood stain has such an intenseness, that it can/has to be highly watered down, so on the one hand it turned out to be a little tricky to match that "Silverwood look", but on the other hand it has the advantage allowing a wide range of silvergray shades while changing the grade of delution ...
... these crates have been treated only with a blend of Vallejo acrylics wet-in-wet ... (as mentioned above by Marc) ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F07-07-blog%2F07-07-0013-holzkisten-p1040810.jpg&hash=b35847e2d047e7ebcfddb171fd0be794b5029c6a)
Cheers
QuoteAs of late I (with Gordon) have found Tamiya acrylics worked "wet" with Tamiya lacquer thinner or Mr. Hobby Color Thinner, have yielded wonderful scale wood results.
Marc,Can you explain more about the color(s) used?
I am intrigued.
Mr. Potato,I am still using the S&S I made when I did the sawmill!
I would like to learn more info on the Vallejo acrylics worked Wet- with Tamiya lacquer thinner or Mr. Hobby color thinner. ;D
What sawmill?
-Younger
I've been using Hunterline alcohol based stains. http://www.hunterline.com The Dark Blue Gray color may be a bit too strong for some tastes, you can tone it down with either Light Gray or with Light Brown.
Attached file should show some HOn30 ties stained with various combinations of the 3 colors I've mentioned (plus PC Board ties painted neutral gray.) The picture shows a jig I put together to help lay track, holding the first rail steady on a PC Board tie for the first solder joint. Once it's in place, I can use the usual 3-point track gauges to get the rest of the track soldered in gauge and centered on the ties.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.earlyrail.org%2Ffirst-track-jig.jpg&hash=f80e1e9d228dedde1c8f3c6ec2821ae8c645641a)
dave
Working "wet" using Tamiya (Edited Excerpt from my weathered wood article series for Model Fan Magazine):
COLORING THE WOOD:
For the thinner in the following coloring steps I used the Tamiya "Lacquer" thinner, to thin the Tamiya acrylics. This is not the X-20A thinner, the Lacquer thinner has no number on the container (that I can see), and it has a yellow cap (it smells much worse than the regular X-20A). This coloring approach/technique does not work with the X-20. I have heard that the Mr. Hobby thinner is very similar to the Tamiya lacquer thinner, so this is an option.
I basically used one of those 6-hole/divot artists paint trays. I fill the holes with Lacquer thinner, and then place a dollop of color on the top of the tray, adjacent to eah Lacquer filled hole.
The colors used were: Tamiya XF-1 "Flat Black", XF-20 "Medium Grey", XF-10 "Flat Brown" , XF-55 "Deck Tan", and XF-57 "Buff". There are others that can be used to suit your needs/tastes.
You may want to work a bit lighter, with the initial Tamiya colors as the subsequent steps do darken them more than would be suitable for certain applications.
STEP 15:
Using a flat square, or flat rounded brush, the wood is given a wash/stain of a black or dark grey Tamiya acrylic, and Lacquer thinner. The stain is a random mix, you want it to be dark enough so that the color settles into the graining and rotted areas, and accentuates them, but not so strong as to "paint" the wood. (You will need to experiment a bit to get the mix, feel, and look that works best for you.) I like to pull the stain/brush from the ends of the piece, towards the center, this accentuates the ends and end graining, as well as helps create the rotting and staining that occur in those locations.
Once the entire piece has been "stained", I set it aside to dry, while staining other pieces.
Note, that the image shows "Flat Black" XF-1 being used for staining; but equally good results can be achieved using "Rubber Black" XF-85. I also used to use "Nato Black" XF-69 , but the most recent jars I obtained of the latter seemed to have too strong of a blue tint, for my taste.
STEP 16:
The coloring was then applied, using a flat round tipped brush, working "wet", in a quick random manner; dabbing/mixing/brushing/thinning of the colors onto the wood, till I achieved the look, opacity, and coloring that I was after. The thinner and acrylic mixing approach for the colors, varied from dipping the brush into the paint, and then into the thinner behind it..swirling it in, and applying a wash; to dipping the brush into the paint, then just a light quick dip into the thinner, and then more painting it on, then wiping the brush on a rag, and immediately come back with a brush load (or two) of thinner (already dirty by now) and washing/streaking that paint down the post. This was done/repeated/alternated with the different colors, or mixes of color....in the case of these pieces, brown was the least used.
When applying the colors, one can also use a brush dampened, or wetted, with thinner, to spread and blend them as desired.
You want the colors to spread and flow, onto the wood and into the grain and coloring it, but not filling it in.
The final finish should be an opaque stain, not a painted finish.
STEP 17:
Using a small round brush, and a heavily thinned black and/or brown paint, one can flow the mix onto, and into, the areas around knot holes, deep splits in the wood, as well as the more heavily rotted areas.
At knotholes, a clean brush dampened with thinner, can be used to draw/blend the stain away from the knot along the direction of the grain. This will further accentuate the knot, and increase the impression of tighter grain around the knot.
COMPARISON:
In these two images you can see the wood pieces after the initial XF-1 dark stain layer (top piece in each image), and then after the application of the opaque stain colors (bottom piece in each image).
Note that at some splits/places the color did not take, these are the grain areas mentioned at the introduction to this SBS. These areas can be touched up, or hidden, in subsequent weathering steps.
END:
Here you can see the look of some posts done using steps 1-17. This serves as a base for further staining, weathering and coloring, tailored to the specific scene, and location, and condition of your wood. These further steps will be covered in the next installment.
While reading the 2012 HOn3 Annual tonight in the research room, I stumbled onto a vendor who is marketing a replacement for the old Floquil stains. Website says they cannot be shipped into California so I guess they might have Diosol in them.
http://roundbell.com/
I'm going to order a batch of stains from them. Film at 11.
Check Marcel Ackle's sbs on his webpages or MIBA special 95 ( german).
Marcel has achieved very good results without fading over time.
Jacq
WOW :o :o
cloaning Floquil Stain! '
what's next ???
Sheep ::)
MPH
Marc, Thanks for posting your how to on working WET in acrylics ;D ;D ;)
I got a bottle of the new Floquil "driftwood" and compared it to the 2 bottles of original Driftwood I have. The new stuff is way too green.
dave
I have a couple unopened bottles of the orig. driftwood stain. ;) My old Gas Station project I used the old Flo-stain stains...driftwood...natural pine...and Oak I believe as a Base on all the wood, the orig Floquil driftwood turned a greenish color after quite a few years ??? more years than I want to say :o This was the main reason I scraped the whole build and wanted to start over. I don't know if you can see the green tint? In the photo I posted.
I never understood why Floquil Driftwood had such a following, even back in the days when the stuff was pretty new. I tried it a couple of times and probably still have the original two bottles I bought; I threw away the scraps of wood I tested it on because they just didn't look good to me. Marc's technique, Chuck's, and others seem to yield superior results.
Is the popularity of Driftwood stain because Floquil is a line mainly targeting model railroad guys and so when one guy likes it every other railroad guy hears about it and copies him?
If that is the case, then I'd be curious whether people who build dioramas of other subjects have their own "standard" products and whether they are the same, better, or worse overall that what railroad guys use.
I guess, at the heart of it, is a feeling that many of us see something in print and, partly because it is in print, accept it as "the way you do that". Rather than try something different or improve upon the technique or product we simply use what our friends use and copy what we see others do. I've never been able to invent a technique but I certainly have tried (sometimes with hideous results) to modify some.
Comments?
Russ
" Is the popularity of Driftwood stain because Floquil is a line mainly targeting model railroad guys and so when one guy likes it every other railroad guy hears about it and copies him? I guess, at the heart of it, is a feeling that many of us see something in print and, partly because it is in print, accept it as the way you do that. "
Um, bingo Russ.
Dan
I think there are 3 reasons for the popularity of original Floquil driftwood:
1. George Sellios and some other master modelers recommended it
2. A long time ago, it was pretty easy to get
3. For some areas & some kinds of wood, the slightly greenish tint is appropriate
For a long time I've been a fan of A-West's "Weather It". I tried the pickling solution and didn't get good results. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I've been using HunterLine stains recently.
dave
Quote from: danpickard on April 20, 2013, 10:43:03 PM
" Is the popularity of Driftwood stain because Floquil is a line mainly targeting model railroad guys and so when one guy likes it every other railroad guy hears about it and copies him? I guess, at the heart of it, is a feeling that many of us see something in print and, partly because it is in print, accept it as the way you do that. "
Um, bingo Russ.
Dan
That may also explain why many ( most?) military modellers use painted styrene to represent wood . Mostly with not very convincing results .
Nick
I have some Hunterline stains.....but I'm thinking why use it if its going to fade quickly ;D
Marc,
I'm not familiar with "Model Fan Magazine". Can you provide any further details on this publication or links...a quick google didn't show me much unfortunately.
Cheers,
Dan
Dan, I believe the... Model Fan Magazine...is a German mag?
Quote from: danpickard on April 21, 2013, 04:51:58 PM
Marc,
I'm not familiar with "Model Fan Magazine". Can you provide any further details on this publication or links...a quick google didn't show me much unfortunately.
Cheers,
Dan
Dan, there is an APP modell fan or in the www (http://www.geramond.de/coverzoom.cfm?image=/_cover/600/571305.jpg&titel=MODELL%20FAN)
... in this issue part 1 (Projekt: Verwittertes Holz) was published ...
http://www.modellfan.de/zeitschrift.cfm?heft=901&nav=930 (http://www.modellfan.de/zeitschrift.cfm?heft=901&nav=930)
... in this issue you can find part 2 ...
http://www.modellfan.de/zeitschrift.cfm?heft=920&nav=930 (http://www.modellfan.de/zeitschrift.cfm?heft=920&nav=930)
... part 3 can be found here ...
http://www.modellfan.de/zeitschrift.cfm?heft=942&nav=930 (http://www.modellfan.de/zeitschrift.cfm?heft=942&nav=930)
You can purchase single mags online directly from the publisher ... or consult IMHO any european modelling dealer (in case he stocks the items), i. e. : http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Suche/modell_fan.htm?n_vl=modell+fan (http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Suche/modell_fan.htm?n_vl=modell+fan)
cheers
I will wait for the movie with English subtitles. Besides, I am personal friends with the star. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on April 22, 2013, 12:45:29 AM
I will wait for the movie with English subtitles ...-- Russ
... which part? "Return of the wood weatherer"? "The weathering strikes back"? ... ;D ... --dam dlareg
The English version will likely be a straight to DVD at best :)....and then they will likely drag it out a year before they are allowed to issue it on this side of the pond. ;)
Hi Marc, as the German version would be even better like me. Can you give me please a reference source for the German version.
Helmut,
Not sure what you mean by "reference source".
If you mean where to get it, they should have it at any local hobby shop in Germany.
The articles are nothing new/special or earth shattering......the first article deals with creating the worn wood/boards, the second with coloring the wood with the Tamiya paints, and the third is the one deals with further weathering/coloring the wood using AK products, and creating the moss and lichen effects.
I believe they were in the February, March, and April issues of this year, in the section "Modelbau Akademie". I have not yet seen the articles in print/person...so I have no idea what they actually say or look like.
Marc
Just do a web search for "model fan" ??? I was surprised at all the wrong things I saw!
May be i should photoshop Marc's head on one of the pictures! LOL! ;D ;D
At least we here in the USA are able to have Marc give us the text.
A BIG thank you to him!
I'm looking forward to trying it.
-Marty
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 18, 2013, 03:08:20 PM
As of late I (with Gordon) have found Tamiya acrylics worked "wet" with Tamiya lacquer thinner or Mr. Hobby Color Thinner, have yielded wonderful scale wood results.
Per Olav Lund uses Vallejo acrylics worked "wet".
Both create an opaque stain/wash that giveas a dead flat and solid appearance to the wood. No worries about eventual wood discoloration. It's a lot of work, somewhat messy, stinks if using the lacquer thinners...and maybe not suited to everything...but the- bomb, for detail pieces, dioramas, and smaller structures.
Marc
Hi Marc
Probably obvious to everyone else, but what exactly do you mean by worked "wet"?
Thanks, Tom
Tom,
The official description: ;D
Wet-on-wet, or alla prima (Italian, meaning at first attempt), is a painting technique, used mostly in oil painting, in which layers of wet paint are applied to previous layers of wet paint. This technique requires a fast way of working, because the work has to be finished before the first layers have dried. It may also be referred to as 'direct painting' or the French term au premier coup (at first stroke).
...basically you want to keep the colors wet/damp, so that you get beter blending, shading and transitions.
Ah...ok, I think I get it.
You apply a few different colors, but don't let them dry between coats...or something.
Will have to try this.
Thanks Marc
Tom
FWIW;
Minwax has a new grey stain (oil base).
I picked up a can for giggles and will post some examples soon.
-Marty
I wonder about the fading issue..............
Marty, if you look at my test panel, you'll see the Minwax (#5) barely showed evidence of fading after 7-1/2 months of flourescent light at two feet, 16 hours/day.
-Younger
Sorry for kicking a bit old topic back to life, but I just wanted to share a technique that I find to work pretty well.
The barn on my Goose on the loose diorama, is a wooden building which I wanted to have a old look.
The method I used for painting old wood is this:
1. Use bass wood strips for the wood.
2. stick them to a Capafix board to be able to mass produce the strips. I needed lots of them.
3. Make the sticks wet, by applying water.
4. Use a Q-tip to apply Vallejo paint. A bit white and a bit silvergrey. The point is to vary the colors.
5. When the paint is still a bit wet, use a paint brush to apply black ink. The capillary effect will make the ink spread out in the partly wet paint.
6. Fiddle around with the ink until you get the desired look. Variation is the key. Treat each wood strip individually.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a2GdnQWePJs/TpIUPbQvOAI/AAAAAAAAARM/Yx4xKRZADHw/s640/IMG_3531.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GHj7s7GPq-s/TpIUQGmcjrI/AAAAAAAAARA/yaSTC7upwtY/s640/IMG_3532.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fWJcYOSVt3U/TpSxRxAO_4I/AAAAAAAAARQ/3WrezlP969U/s400/IMG_3534.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ISy8vKHprrc/TpSxSAhfVQI/AAAAAAAAARU/FdFx0zomnyg/s288/IMG_3535.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VeSCdEP42Dc/TpSxSqlMBlI/AAAAAAAAARY/jRhlt_sKYmQ/s288/IMG_3536.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H7d7_QD5I3E/TpSxS6cFinI/AAAAAAAAARc/wFqesxzk620/s640/IMG_3540.JPG)
This is what it looks like when dry and attached to the building.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--7FH1HOxgm0/Tlf0BiMzp7I/AAAAAAAAANo/CFkBQtnvyJI/s640/Goose_1_0003.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ksr-kKN3T6I/Tp3JT89zrSI/AAAAAAAAASE/M-6cTtgYTj8/s800/goose_5_1.JPG)
Henrik
Henrik,
Welcome to the forum. Nice way to to revive this post! ;D
This is a very interesting and new approach, and gives a nice result. I am thinking that one could possibly even also add some brown/walnut/sepia drawing ink as well, to get some brown streaking/staining areas as well.
Did you add grain to the wood before the staining?
Have you had any issues with the ink fading over time (in the sunlight or under flourescent lighting)?
Have you tried going over a piece after it was dry, with a really thin wash of another color, such as Vallejo beige/tan? ....the reason I ask, was wondering if the ink re-activates.
BTW. looks like a cool scene in the works.
Sometimes simple works best for me. The decking and small shed in this 1/87 scale diorama were built out of clear white pine strips. They were treated with diluted PolyScale Grimy Black. Some color was added with chalk powders. Time has not altered the color.
Quote from: marc_reusser on July 31, 2013, 04:04:48 AM
Henrik,
Welcome to the forum. Nice way to to revive this post! ;D
This is a very interesting and new approach, and gives a nice result. I am thinking that one could possibly even also add some brown/walnut/sepia drawing ink as well, to get some brown streaking/staining areas as well.
Did you add grain to the wood before the staining?
Have you had any issues with the ink fading over time (in the sunlight or under flourescent lighting)?
Have you tried going over a piece after it was dry, with a really thin wash of another color, such as Vallejo beige/tan? ....the reason I ask, was wondering if the ink re-activates.
BTW. looks like a cool scene in the works.
Thanks for the welcome. :)
I'll try to answer your qestions.
I don't know if it fades over time. I haven't exposed my dioramas to sunlight over a long period of time. I guess it behaves like ink on paper.
I am pretty sure you will get nice effects using a brown ink as well. On this project, I used various green and brown enamels from the AK Interactive range after the ink/paint was dry to add stains.
I also added a normal wash (oils/turpentine from Abteilung) to bring out the holes from the nails, and other features. The ink didn't re-activate. I haven't tried to apply acryllics after the ink dried. Bit I don't think that will be a problem.
Hope this answers your questions :)
Henrik
Two good techniques. The use of paint would seem to minimize fading and tend to make the color a little more opaque. Marc once pointed out that sun bleached wood is pretty opaque and showed me an example in my own backyard. -- Russ
G'day all,
and welcome Henrik,
Quote from: marc_reusser on July 31, 2013, 04:04:48 AM
Henrik,
... Have you had any issues with the ink fading over time (in the sunlight or under flourescent lighting)?
... I gave this technique with acrylics a try on one or two occasions, but did use black wood stain instead of ink and was far less successful. Will now visit my local artist shop within the next days and buy a small bottle of Scribtol or another drawing/india ink. These (http://www.boesner.com/shop/zeichnen/farben/tusche-tinte) are available in different shades of colour and most of 'em are supposed to be light-fast ... don't know if this includes fluorescent light .. eventually will do a little experiment under my desk light until October ...
Cheers