Here a methode to make old plastered walls. The wall on the photo is a close up in H0 of the blacksmith watermill.
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The wall is a hydrocal brick embossed wall, where the recesses and openings, after wetting the casting, were carved using a # 11 Xacto blade.
The casting was painted directly with enamel washes to give the bricks the required character.
The next day, a layer of gesso was applied in small patches to prevent early drying.
Directly after the application plaster powder was seeved over the gesso patches.
When dry, excess powder is brushed of with a soft brush. When the required part is completely covered, the gesso is cut/chipped with the toothpick/Xacto blade, screwdriver, without scratching the bricks, a bit like Marc's description of making paint chippings. The gesso comes of at random, more or less exposing bricks.
It is also possible to color the powdered layer and apply a second layer of gesso and powder. When creating loose plaster, different colors will become visible, suggesting an age old wall. Breaking up such a casting and using the rubble to make a collapsed wall offers many possibilties for a military or abandoned railway diorama / lay out part
Regards
Jacq
Thank you for describing that technique so well, Jacq. I hope it also will inspire others to educate us. These posts are fascinating. -- Russ
Jacq,
Thanks for the great information. Very interesting, and beautiful result. I will definitely have to give this a try.
There is a sim technique that can be used for doing old craked and damaged concrete paving. The initial pour/layer has some small grains of silica/sand added it (to represent the aggregate in the concrete)...this is then allowed to dry, and can be stained as needed. A second very thin layer of just plaster is then applied over it, and finished or sanded smooth (but not enough to show the first layer)...this top layer can then be chipped and flaked off in areas to expose the coarser ("inner core") part of the concrete. I will try and do an SBS of this as part of an upcoming project.
Marc
Very nice stuff Jacq, oh I wish that people worked to these standards whenever they made a model layout. As you explain, it's not too difficult, it just needs care and forethought. Cheap materials, no big secret, just care.
Thanks for the post
Hector
Thank you for the lesson on advanced scenery making. Your students are beholding to you.
John
Great stuff, kinda looks like my garage.............(Grin)
No Mac, except for the motorcycles, your garage (aka The Cave) is more weathered.
John
>> your garage (aka The Cave) is more weathered. << photo's photo's, I like reference pictures ;D ;D ;D ;D.
When there is an interest, I will show topic for topic my H0 layout with all ( simple) techniques used to
built the buildings and the landscape, including this functional basaltworks.
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All six silo's work and waggons can be loaded and switched with a remote controller. I often stand between or behind the public with the controls and it is fun to watch the reactions that all is working without someone around. There ishowever a problem. At home and in the mornings at shows, all functions correct and the balast flows freely, sometimes to freely. After noon however, the material is not flowing so freely anymore. Long searching and fundamental thinking turned up the reason. All those folks bring along a lot of moisture and the humidity in ahall runs up very quickly when a certain saturation point has been reached. Now I have to look for a scale size material that is not affected, I think impossible.
Jacq