Okay, my first project thread here, this one will most likely be in progress for a very long time. Originally I was going to wait a little longer to start this thread, wait until I had a little more done, but I decided I should probably get feedback as early as possible since I'm still a greenie with this genre of modeling.
This project is 1/16 scale and will basically be a display base/backdrop for another project that will be announced later. I will only be modeling the facade plus a piece of ground in front of it.
This is my inspiration/reference for this project;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages22.fotki.com%2Fv819%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair01-vi.jpg&hash=177eac4cb3ed2d10985074f96d5c27be720be741)
I won't be modeling the structure exactly as shown in that photo. My version will represent this gas station as it might have appeared in the late 1920's, worn but not dilapidated.
I'll be starting with the doors, here's a closer up shot of the doors;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1590%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair02-vi.jpg&hash=7a780459d12e02997395133b65418e0c68309981)
And here's the basic frame of one of the doors as modeled by me;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1590%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair03-vi.jpg&hash=b4fcf534dd6b28921b54accee0ca971d50de1726)
It's made out of the usual suspect, distressed basswood. I've mounted the pieces to mattboard for ease of handling. Here's a close up of the bottom section;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages34.fotki.com%2Fv1078%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair04-vi.jpg&hash=78a8c18b34e0ce058b961e593de3a5f14f033eaa)
I'm not super happy with it, but I think I can live with it, but I'd really like to hear what you guys have to say. Here's an even closerup shot;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages52.fotki.com%2Fv1567%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair05-vi.jpg&hash=321b2f3bf5ddb88b45a5b9902c693a367e04a071)
Here the knot I made using the shaped-piece-stuck-in-the-hole-and-sawed-off method. Turns out I made the hole a little too small and the shaped piece split the board. I liked the effect though so I left it, call it a "happy little accident".
I still haven't added nail detail obviously, let alone the rest of the boards or window or hinges or handle, a long way to go for this door, and then I only have to do it all 5 more times.
I really appreciate constructive criticism, fire away, I can take it.
David
You never mentioned the degree of weathering you hope to achieve, Dave. If you want it to be anywhere close to the wood in the photo of the full size structure, you need to start over. You would need to stain and distress the wood to replicate unpainted, weathered wood, then apply paint over that. Chuck Doan has mastered that technique and has described it in detail both online and in my first Modelers' Annual. More recently Marc Reusser and a couple of others have shown and described variations of that technique on this forum.
As you have modeled the trim, it looks as though somebody put a heavy coat of paint over wood that had suffered years of exposure to the elements. If your intent is to model a recently repainted structure, you are on the right track.
Also, you may deliberately have varied from the prototype's trim dimensions. Notice the door trim at the very top and very bottom is wider than what you used for your model. I prefer the full size proportions but that is personal taste.
Some of the other guys will notice different things and will give you a lot of outstanding help, more than I could. But at least this will get the ball rolling.
Russ
David, maybe this picture of these doors might help you a little. Craig
QuoteYou never mentioned the degree of weathering you hope to achieve,
Not specifically but I did say that I'm going for a worn but not dilapidated look. I think I'm okay with the level of weathering I have on it, just wondering how realistic it is. The exposed wood came out darker than I think it should have though. I did follow Master Doan's technique more or less as described in his Fotki album, but I wasn't going for nearly as heavy a weathered appearance as he did with the Fordson Farm. Even with such great, detailed instruction as Chuck gives I'm sure it will take much practice to even approach his level of his artistic mastery if that's even possible.
QuoteIf your intent is to model a recently repainted structure, you are on the right track.
I didn't think of it that way, but you're right. We'll go with that explanation since I like the look. ;D
QuoteAlso, you may deliberately have varied from the prototype's trim dimensions.
Oh crap! This is precisely the reason I need extra eyes on what I do. I don't know how I didn't notice that. I didn't mean to vary so much from the prototype dimensions. I did take actual dimensions from the structure but apparently I misunderstood my poor sketch. It looks like I may had made the door too tall overall as well. I'll have to dig in through my notes, sketches and photos and come up with a new to-scale drawing that looks right.
Quotemaybe this picture of these doors might help you a little
Nice doors! What scale are they?
David
My service station Doors are 1/2 inch scale.
I re-made my scale drawing and discovered several places where I went wrong. I think the biggest problem is I was scaling off a photo that had a lot of lense distortion (the second photo in my first post), so I scaled off a different photo this time that had little or no lense distortion at the doors, (the first photo in the first post.). My on-site sketch was poor and incomplete, but I figured as long as I had photos I could scale the rest off them, I was only half right. I think I have a good drawing now though I did tweak some of the dimensions slightly just to make things simpler, but the overall proportions look good. I think I can salvage the pieces I already made with a little trimming and sanding. However, I'm willing to start over if any of you think I should do my painting/weathering differently.
David
David,
I think Russ has covered most of the points already, but one I would like to add for your consideration is the joinery, especially at this scale, and if you are not wanting to do a fully decaying structure ;).
Note the arrows in the image below; note how at these and other sim locations, your wood peices raduis into the joint. This is odd, as this is not a place where a board would get the kind of wear that would cause this...these horizontal boards should still be pretty tight and square to the the outer vertical boards (note your reference image)...now yes, you could get some wear and rot on the horizontal boards that would cause this, but that would likely be limited primarily to the top edge of the top board, and the bottom edge of the bottom board.
I hope I am clear with what I am getting at.
MR
Thanks Marc, I do understand what you are getting at. I did notice that my joints could be tighter, I have a tru sander, guess I should use it. :D To fix the proportion issues that Russ mentioned I'll have to narrow those horizontal pieces if I want to save them so I'll try to true them up better while I'm at it.
David
Congratulations for jumping into the fire! Be careful what you wish for, you have Mr. "Nasty Pants" on your tail, he'll tell it like it is, and you won't like it, but in the end he's got a big heart and you'll be better off, but sometimes you'll feel like Dennis Weaver in the movie "Duel" and wonder what you did to piss this guy off???? Just keep your foot on the accelerator and don't look into his eyes, scary, been there done that,.............. :'(
Gil
love ya Marc ;D
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on December 31, 2009, 04:59:40 PM
but sometimes you'll feel like Dennis Weaver in the movie "Duel" and wonder what you did to piss this guy off????
Gil
love ya Marc ;D
And just think.....I have mellowed so much in my old age! :o
MR
Gil,
I've been lurking long enough to become very familiar with "Mr Nasty Pants" personality. ;D Seriously though, that's why I joined this forum, to get honest, useful feedback. I'm tired of the "Great Job!" forums.
I guess I need practice in basic measurements as well. I ruined several of the pieces trying to correct their lengths so I have to re-make them. I hope the other 5 doors will go smoother than this!
I also figured out part of the problem with the excessive joint gaps. Part of it is more illusion because the edges of the vertical pieces became slightly rounded from the distressing process. So, should I distress the pieces slightly oversized first, then sand the edges to square them back up?
David
David, On my doors i just built the door except ...the windows..and then did my wood grain ,and knot holes and weathering...which i did useing a x-acto blade only...not a wire brush. I didnt use Jigs just eye balled and sanded to fit as i went along. Then i put together the window frames and added my wood grain. I see no need to weather and then sand down the edges to square them up ::) but thats the way i did it back then. David ... The project your starting is not your typical gas station ..looks like a small town work shed with just a SINCLAIR logo painted above the doors... all im saying if its a gas station you want to model check the web for ideas tons of info. Craig
David, in my field work to study bridges there is always something I failed to measure. For your next trip make a measuring stick. Paint a yardstick alternating black and white every foot for two feet and every three inches for the last, with the final three inches alternately painted every inch. Put it in every photo. Using your camera on a telephoto setting will reduce the distortion if you can get back far enough. Also, Some Photoshop type software will allow you to pull the edges of your image to straighten it out.
Also, I recently signed on here too. Many modelers on this forum have made conscious decisions to improve certain aspects of their modeling, and perhaps add to the state-of-the-art in modeling for everyone interested. I have been working on certain areas and hope to get to others as time permits, such as weathering. I think it is pretty helpful when someone points out your joinery need to be looked at and the board ends squared where they should be per the original assembly. A second pair of eyes can be useful in pointing out the obvious. Heck, my early railroad photos never looked that good until someone pointed out I might try standing on the sunny side of the tracks!
Have fun! John
John
Quotedidnt use Jigs just eye balled and sanded to fit as i went along
Well, then you must be more talented than I, it's obvious I need to use a jig. :)
QuoteThe project your starting is not your typical gas station ..looks like a small town work shed with just a SINCLAIR logo painted above the doors
I can't say when the Sinclair logo first appeared, but I can say that this structure was used as a gas station at one time, wether it started as such I'm not sure. I'm not looking to model a typical gas station anyway, it's the uniqueness of this prototype that drew me to it.
QuoteFor your next trip make a measuring stick.
I'll have to keep that in mind. I've actually done that on a smaller scale for cars, so I am aware of the concept.
David
David,
On my current 5x5x7 project, for some bizarre reason ended up with 3 different lengths of wood for some of the same framing pieces and boards (even though I jigged them on the disk sander first go around)....I ended up having to sand those to a matching length after coloring and painting...in the past with my staining approach I was loathe to do this because the coloring can never be matched again...but I found it to actually be no problem with the acrylic method I am currently trying out....as a matter of fact it worked quite well (though I did wherever possible still try to sand only ends that were not going to be in exposed locations/seen visually, in the and anyway. Instead of setting up another jig, I just put a piece of Tamiya masking tape down on the disk sander talbe, and drew a line on it at the exact length I needed the boards....then just sanded them to that length, feeding them straight into the disk along my 90-degree guide. Upon removal I used a new sharp xacto blade and carefully trimmed off all the peel-back or burr...or whatever that is called...the lightly touched up with the acrylics or Silverwood. (in this image of the project you can see the top of the stud at left, and the second floor board end from the left, have not ben touched up yet.)
MR
David welcome to the forum. The disk sander is the way to go when working in a large scale. I use a 4" and a 10" and they are very handy for model work.
I delivered soda pop out there in 1969 and I think it was a gas station then. I don't think they would put up a Sinclair logo with out selling gas and it is setting right on the main highway. I can remember other gas station at that time that had much smaller building than that one in Elberta.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
An aside to the central topic of this thread, but related to the measuring stick issue, which by the way is an excellent tool for field work research. Several years ago, a photographer colleague of mine produced a book titled "Keep Your Eye on the Ditch." The concept was devilishly simple and highly effective. He prepared a series of identically painted measuring sticks, the largest being nine foot, the second six foot, the original being 36", the fourth 18" and the smallest 9" long. The two shorter sticks were accurately scaled down versions of the three-footer while the two larger versions were scaled up. Then he would place items that he found in roadside ditches next to an inappropriately sized measuring stick on white seamless in the photo studio. Lighting was very flat and consistent with scientific specimen photography. The only size reference was the measuring stick, so you ended up with 6' long dead squirrels, 6" diameter toilet seats, 3' long shoes, 5' diameter baseball caps, 9" diameter tires and so on and so forth. He occasionally added a photo of a true-to-scale item to help convince the viewer of the implied truth in the project. It was wonderful...
Paul
QuoteI delivered soda pop out there in 1969 and I think it was a gas station then
Really? So it was used as a gas station at it's current location at one time? According to an article in the NGSLG it was moved from Eureka in 1942. I just assumed it was originally a gas station prior to 1942 and was moved to Elberta to be used as a fancy storage shed. It does not appear to even have a foundation currently. I don't suppose you noticed what was in the interior while it was being used as a gas station? It would have been a stretch to use it to service cars even back in the age of the Model T. It's deep enough for a car plus work benches, and the doors are wide enough to drive a car through but there doesn't appear to be enough room between the side of the car and the wall after driving it in. The 50's and 60's cars I'm sure would have been very difficult to work on in there. And if you put two cars in there, there would not be much room between them. As Craig said, the shape and size of the structure plus the odd doors seem more shed-like than gas/service station-like, so I've always been curious as to how the interior may have been used.
John S. Midgely wrote that article in the NGSLG and took the photos, is he a local?
David
David you're right. I said I thought it was a gas station. All I can remember is that I think I had a stop on that route in Elberta but I have no recall of what it was. Forty years is a long time and I only went on that route a handful of times. The bad thing is, I had forgot about that article and it was only 2 years ago. I think John is local, maybe S. L. C. I will ask Roger at the hobby shop tomorrow he may know.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's the do-over on the door;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages18.fotki.com%2Fv437%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair06-vi.jpg&hash=5a57075d307b285d6ec6e040f47d610821c2a6ad)
The measurements are correct now, or at least very close. Also, I put in aanother piece at the very bottom that I had missed before. The joints are much tighter now, not perfect but about as good as I'm gonna get using the tools I have, (not to mention patience!). I went lighter on the distressing of the wood this time, I think it's probably more in keeping with the theme.
Here's a close up of the bottom section;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages18.fotki.com%2Fv674%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair07-vi.jpg&hash=b8ab4618c4cd8e01aef82471489f5945214c5f9d)
Thanks for your help guys! This version is much better.
David
David, you mentioned drawings on page one but I don't see them did you post them? Pat
No, I didn't post any drawings. The drawing isn't really anything special, just barely good enough for my use.
David
Nice work, and definitely an improvement over the first one.
David, The re-do of the door's look alot better. Craig
Door looks great David! Does in need specific weathering where feet might shove it closed etc? Maybe that's something to consider when it is installed.
John
I've now added the vertical slats in the lower and upper sections as well as the diagonals. I made the slats from stripwood I had on hand that was close to the right size. I glued them down to cardstock, distressed them, stained them, and painted them as I had all the other pieces, then installed them from the back as one group into a ledge I'd carved out of the mat board that the rest of the pieces are mounted to. The diagonals were more or less a cut, trim and sand to fit deal.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages47.fotki.com%2Fv1590%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair08-vi.jpg&hash=ed1c6a4bb7403b86d71d1da7b0f86d8944714780)
A closer up view;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages51.fotki.com%2Fv424%2Fphotos%2F6%2F361316%2F8294870%2Fsinclair09-vi.jpg&hash=cb237442b3270827e0967ab23ce9b864f1cf5f6d)
QuoteDoes in need specific weathering where feet might shove it closed etc? Maybe that's something to consider when it is installed
I have five more doors to do, so there will be plenty of opportunities to give each one a little personality like that.
That brings up a question. How do you guys think I should handle the hardware? I have hinges and handles that are close to the style and size of the prototype that I bought from Micro Mark. It looks as though on the prototype that the hinges and handles were never painted, but that seems kind of odd. Maybe the paint wore off the hinges and handles much quicker than the wood? That still seems a bit odd, I'd think I'd see some evidence that the hinges had been painted before. However I guess it's possible that none of these hinges were there when the doors were last painted, maybe they've been replaced one by one as old hinges wore out. I'm think I should probably show the hinges as having peeling paint, but the handles as just hand worn metal. What you you think?
David
My opinion would be that the inside hardware would be covered in paint ant the outside would have worn off; these are no normal doors they are carriage doors. I have some catalogs and a website for original carriage doors, I will have to look for them and shoot you the info.
Gil
Inside hardware?
There is a great article in the magizine "American Bungalow" about vintage carrige doors, only problem is there are sixty plus issues and i cant remember which one it's in, I will look, but there are a few images from the internet that I found, hope these help.
Gil
Opps here's the other one, a little more helpful
Gil
Actually these doors a different. The two doors in the middle hinge off the center post. The pairs of doors on either side hinge on the side posts and fold. There is actually 3 different sections per side. Remember, I'm only modeling the facade, not the interior, so I was confused by the "interior hardware" comment.
David
Yes..... what Gill is saying about inside hardware is there are latches [TOP and BOTTOM ]to lock the top and bottom of the doors....if didnt have this stuff them BIG doors would be floping all over the place in the WIND. but since David is not doing a interior he dont have to worry about it ;) your lucky you dont have to model all this...... ::) interior hardware. Craig
Any latches would have to be on the outside on this structure, there are no other doors! In fact, it appears none of the windows open either! If the doors latched from the inside there would be no way to get out and latch the doors. It doesn't look like a sturdy setup now that I look at it closer, but I have no other explanation. In fact, it looks like right now the doors on the right side might be nailed closed, there are no latches or locks over there, only one latch with a padlock on the left side. Another confusing thing is the strip that seems to have no other purpose but to cover the gap between the middle doors and the outer pair. Judging by the position of the nail holes it appears to be attached to the outer pair, I wonder if that strip accomodated some kind of latching mechanism in the past?
David
David:
It's a little hard to tell from the photo at the beginning of the thread, but given that the window areas are all covered and sheet metal has been put over the presumably damaged lower sections of two of the doors, is it possible that the building is locked up and abandoned? Perhaps the doors are nailed shut to keep out squatters. Since you're not modelling the interior, all you'll have to do is the necessary outside hardware to show that the doors are supposedly functional.
To make the model front more interesting visually, you could have the folding doors open slightly on one side with just the weathered front of a vehicle barely visible through the opening. You still wouldn't have to do any interior detail, but the illusion of an interior could be effective. Just a thought...
Paul
Please correct me if I am wrong but it appears as though you may not have an electric sanding disc at your disposal. Some years ago a very good modeler suggested I buy one (from Micro Mark). He told me it was his most used tool. I took his advice and he was correct. It would make fitting your butt-joints and diagonals go much more quickly with much better accuracy and repeatability.
Russ
THis should be a fun project! A good choice, this one shows up on Flickr often. I third the motion for disk sanders. I couldn't model without one.
Okay Door Dudes.......
First off....Gil, WTF are those ugly doors you posted?....and twice nonetheless!
Here goes the assumption based on holes, marks, stains and astragal, shown in the images in Davids first post :
As the building stands, the three doors at right side of post are all fixed in place and nailed/screwed/blocked shut.
The first door to left of the post is operable and swings inward. The two most right-hand doors are joined as one, and are either fixed, or swing inward as one (hard to tell exactly as there is no close-up of these)
....however....the original way these doors once likely functioned was as follows:
The one door on either side of the post swung inward towards the post/center. This is evidenced by the hinge bolt locations, at the post side of the doors, and the astragal strip affixed to the exterior of the adjacent two doors.
The two/pair of doors at far left and far right, each bi-folded inward, against the respective side walls. This is evidenced by the hinge bolt hole locations at the far right and far left doors, and by the marks of the old exterior surface mount locations of hinges between the two door panels.
...NOW...that said ...there is one more option that is possible re. the function of these doors, in which case, the above description could be the original way they were set-up...or at the very least a very old redo. I have worked on structures from this period (1900-1930) that had three or four door/panel garage openings like this where the doors were sitting on/in a track at the top and bottom....this track ran along the front of the opening and did a very tight 90-degree turn at the corner and then ran down the side wall. All the doors were hinged together at the interior...so they all tracked around the corner and down the wall as one unit. ....SO..... that would be another option for your door system.
MR
Quote from: Roughboy on January 03, 2010, 09:35:03 PM
David:
It's a little hard to tell from the photo at the beginning of the thread, but given that the window areas are all covered and sheet metal has been put over the presumably damaged lower sections of two of the doors, is it possible that the building is locked up and abandoned? Perhaps the doors are nailed shut to keep out squatters. Since you're not modelling the interior, all you'll have to do is the necessary outside hardware to show that the doors are supposedly functional.
To make the model front more interesting visually, you could have the folding doors open slightly on one side with just the weathered front of a vehicle barely visible through the opening. You still wouldn't have to do any interior detail, but the illusion of an interior could be effective. Just a thought...
Paul
Be afraid, be very afraid! My Red Oak garage was going to have closed doors, then just open a bit and a hint of interior (yeah right), then came a full garage interior! Only a six month detour.
QuoteThe two/pair of doors at far left and far right, each bi-folded inward, against the respective side walls. This is evidenced by the hinge bolt hole locations at the far right and far left doors, and by the marks of the old exterior surface mount locations of hinges between the two door panels.
This was my guess.
I'm thinking I might put barrell latches mounted on the strip that overlaps the gap between the doors, one at the top going into the top sill, and one at the bottom going into the floor. I know it's unconventional to have the latches on the outside but this structure is unconventional since there are no doors other than these "carriage" doors.
Quotethen just open a bit and a hint of interior (yeah right), then came a full garage interior! Only a six month detour.
No worries here. This thing is 1/16 scale, I'm only modeling the facade, not the whole structure. It will be very similar to Fordson Farm, just a facade with a vehicle parked out front. I don't have room for a full blown diorama of this thing in 1/16 scale! I actually did do a mockup at one time with a complete interior in 1/16 scale, it was just waaaayyy too big! I've considered 1/48 scale, 1/24 and 1/16 scale for this, even made sketches and mockups in all those scales, but finally settled on just a facade and foreground in 1/16. This is a project that's been nearly two years in the making, before I settled on this format and finally got started a week or so ago. Actually, I did do some work on it over a year ago, (but then got distracted over ideas to do it in other scales.). I started making the body for a Frye visible gas pump, but I'll show you that later.
David
Ooo. I might be doing one for mine using a Kit (cant think of the co.)
You are thinking of Curbside Dioramics. I actually have two of those kits, using one as a reference for scratchbuilding my 1/16 version. I think I can get even more if you need one, (an LHS has had a bunch in stock for some reason.). They've been out of production for quite some time I beleive, and are dang difficult to find.
David
Chuck, If the kit you have is a R & D Unique.....Curbside Dioramics gas pump in 1/24 scale.....they made 2 kinds of pumps that i know of Fry Model 117....and....Tokheim Cut 850...they are very nice kit's great detail... ;D....i bought 4 each when they first came out. David, I dont know of a gas pump thats detailed enough as a curbside in your scale 1/16 ??? Do you?? i think you got your work cut out for you to build one in a bigger scale than 1/24 Craig
QuoteI dont know of a gas pump thats detailed enough as a curbside in your scale 1/16 Do you?? i think you got your work cut out for you to build one in a bigger scale than 1/24
No kits available that I'm aware of so I'm scratchbuilding it. I'm modeling it after the Curbside Dioramics Fry 117 and from photos of real pumps. I turned the body of it on a cheapo toy wood lathe and have added some detail, but got a long ways to go, but I think getting that curved shape of the body was the worst of it. There are a lot of 1/18 scale pumps out there, but they all look very toy-like to me.
David
I agree all the 1/18 scale gas pumps look like.....CRAP.....and toy like. Heres some info on The fry Visible model 117. It came out in 1924 "Mae West" pump is what the collectors call it and the company's name that made it was GUARANTEED. I bought and sold about 40 old pumps over the years...but was never able to buy a Fry....Knew were a couple were at, and both were the rare 5 gallon but was never able to get them >:( Craig
Dear Door God!
"stick it up your astragal" ( door joke) ;D
They were carriage doors, and yes they originally ran on a track, and were hinged at the jamb, and hinged to swing into themselves, I have a reprint catalog that I can't find at the moment, but when I do, I'll show you,...............
Gil
Sash and door man of the 80's
I have the R and D unique kit. Pretty nice, but if I use it I will be adding some details. I may go looking for 1/2" diameter glass tubing just to be difficult.
Chuck, I agree that the R&D kits need more detail ,but there a very good start. Inside gallon markers is one thing i can think off. If you find 1/2 diameter glass tubeing thats not to thick!! [let me know] Then cutting it to length is another story ::) Craig
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 06, 2010, 07:26:14 AM
I may go looking for 1/2" diameter glass tubing just to be difficult.
Could you cut down one of those big/long glass eye-dropper type tubes they use in chemistry labs? These even have index markings on them...though they're on the exterior. But with a 1/2" dia tube you should be able to fit a custom made, reverse printed, dry transfer decal inside, and burnish it on. Another place to maybe find 1/2 glass cylinders is the old vacuum tubes like used to be in TV's and Raidios......try ebay or the flea market. Cut to length with a diamond scriber....then just sand smooth on some diamond paper.
Just some thoughts.
MR
Chuck -
Corning Pyrex 9 ml test tubes (p/n 9800-13) are 13 mm OD, which is pretty close to 1/2" (0.511"). Corning doesn't spec the wall thickness, but it's fairly thin compared to glass tubing. They're readily available in packs of 72 from many lab supply houses. Here's one example: http://www.coleparmer.com/Catalog/product_view.asp?sku=3456903 (http://www.coleparmer.com/Catalog/product_view.asp?sku=3456903). I suspect you could ask around and get one for free from a lab.
Mark
I used a glass medicine dropper for my 1/4" scale pump. I cut it with a carbide scribe and snapped off the end. I carefully sanded the ends square on my disc sander. Damn, I'm not sure I really wanted to find 1/2" glass tube!
Thanks Mark!