I purchased on of these brass and cast metal kits that uses a Bachmann HO 0-6-0 mechanizim.
I used the etchings that make the cab and saddle tank but will not be using the cast metal details.
I have some PSC details I may use and have been building the others from scratch.
Obviously these are "in progress" shots
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-Marty
That's really neat Marty, who makes the conversion kit?
Err...shouldn't have asked, my loco to freight car ratio right now is 6:0.
Nice work so far. How are you going to get the domes to fit the curvature of the tank? -- Russ
I have always wanted one of these kits, but he made them for HO mechanisms, and I have a bunch of On30 stuff, do I really need the kit if I have to change out the domes, and ????? Would it be easier to scratch it yourself, or do I need the major parts?
Gil
Ps I like all your machine work!
Unc,
The dome bases have been troubling me for some time, I just avoided it until I had to come up with a solution.
I ordered a fly cutter from Sherline this morning, it is small enough to do the .750 radius.
I'll need to make a jig to hold the dome horizontally in the mill.
I hope it works.
If it does I may make the sand domes.
Gil,
The tank and cab etchings are pretty important and would be time consuming to do.
They fold up nice, even though the saddle tank is about .020" too short.
Placing the running board laminations all on top of the tank edge would solve that.
I will likely do one of the side tank engines next year.
Thanks for the compliments!
Boy having CAD on the Sherline would sure make duplicates of everything a lot easier!
Guess all my pieces are "one of a kind!"
-MJ
Very nice indeed. Your machining skills are becoming more evident with every new build. Excellent my friend.
Jerry
Not! "One of a kind"
ONE-OFF'S
There more valuable that way!
Hey they have that TV show "Pimp my Ride" or "Overhauling"
You could start your own Cable series!
"Pimp My Narrow Gauge Locomotive"
Doesn't quite have the same catchy ring but it will catch on!
Gil
Marty....Looks to be a very involved project ! Does the fly cutter profile match the radius of the boiler. I'd like to see a quick SBS if possible.
Philip
Marty:
The fly cutter is the best way to cut the radius, just be certain to use shallow cuts. The cutting blade should be adjustable so you can fine tune the radius of the cut. The biggest challenge will be set up, making certain that the dome is exactly 90° to the axis of the cutter and that your z-axis is correctly aligned so that the dome will sit 90° to the boiler and along the center line. If you need to fine tune the radius after milling, turn a wood block to the same diameter as the boiler, less the thickness of a piece of emery paper. Then simply work the dome over the sanding form until you get the perfect fit on the boiler.
Paul
Thanks Paul,
That was the plan.
I intend to make a jig to hold the dome parallel, then just a matter of centering up the mill head and fly cutting.
Since there seems to be some interest I will try and remember to take a picture of the set up while cutting.
-Marty
Nice work so far. You really are mastering that brass. Look forward to your progress.
Marc
Quote from: Roughboy on April 27, 2010, 08:28:27 AM
Marty:
The fly cutter is the best way to cut the radius, just be certain to use shallow cuts. The cutting blade should be adjustable so you can fine tune the radius of the cut. The biggest challenge will be set up, making certain that the dome is exactly 90° to the axis of the cutter and that your z-axis is correctly aligned so that the dome will sit 90° to the boiler and along the center line. If you need to fine tune the radius after milling, turn a wood block to the same diameter as the boiler, less the thickness of a piece of emery paper. Then simply work the dome over the sanding form until you get the perfect fit on the boiler.
Paul
Good enough for me. transmission received!
Phil
Looks like you have something to have fun!! Nice models at the kitchen Marty!
Thanks again guys!
I got the foot boards soldered to the pilots last night....:(
Oh well better luck next time, I think I filled the swear jar doing it!
Marc! I thought you hated Porters! awwww shucks! ??? ;D ::)
Well the flycutter came yesterday! (ordered from Sherline Sunday night!) ;D
So I set up to cut the radius on the steam dome.
First off;
How to set the cutter to make a .750" radius cut? (1.5" diameter)???
I thought about a dial indicator, but how to "read" the backside?
So I checked with my caliper and set it a little smaller.
Then I put a scrap in the vise and made some test cuts, eventually I snuck up to a diameter of 1.495"
I had to trim some of the back of the cutter so it wouldn't hit the workpiece.
more in a sec.
-Marty
On to the dome!
I decided I didnt need a "jig".
I just mounted the rotary table on it's side (I have a plate to do this as I often do things with the table mounted vertically) and put the 3-jaw chuck in it.
I wasn't really sure how to make sure it was all lined up on the center line so what I did was put a .032"
music wire in the chuck and a .032 bit in the mill.
Even so I guess the cutter is slightly offset, so I had to move the table back .005"
Here we are after the tweak about half way through the cut.
And the final pass!
The fly cutter cuts great! I'm really glad I needed it! ;)
I ended up moving (or removing from) the dome .025"
I think I did pretty damn good for a first time!
Now for those sand domes that look like turds........
Good job Marty. You'll find the fly-cutter a useful addition to your arsenal. Also works well for surfacing large areas.
Paul
You guys with your machining skills make me jealous.
Great job - great project.
Beautiful work. (But if you had made the domes from balsa you could have shaped the undersides with sandpaper on a dowel!) -- Russ (Heading for the corner.)
Hell, I shoulda' made it outta paper!
Then I coulda' made Xerox's for everyone!
I know, I know, I'm right behind you (a few steps back though!)
-Marty
Good tight fit! thanks for the sbs.
Philip
Not a lot of progress......but some.
I wanted to have a piece on top of the steam dome for the whistle and pop off's
Having a separate piece also made it easier to drill the 3 .029" holes on the rotary table at 120 degrees to one another.
Also the "turret" I will leave brass so installation will be after paint.
The whistle & valves are just sitting in there.
FWIW the base is .025" dia. and .016" thick. It does have a .100" spigot for mounting into the dome.
I also drilled & tapped the dome 6-32 for its eventual attachment to the tank.
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-Marty
If you keep working in brass, you will get so good that you will be like Chuck Doan with wood or Gordon Birrell with styrene or Marc with paints and scrap materials. Disgusting. -- Russ
QuoteFWIW the base is .025" dia. and .016" thick. It does have a .100" spigot for mounting into the dome.
I also drilled & tapped the dome 6-32 for its eventual attachment to the tank.
show off ;D ;D ;D ;D Looks very good
Jacq
Great job MJ. Your metal working skills are just getting better with each piece you create.
Jerry
Thanks guys!
Unc, just trying to find my niche
-Marty
I like this line:
"Having a separate piece also made it easier to drill the 3 .029" holes on the rotary table at 120 degrees to one another."
This is a man who is familiar with the capabilities and benefits of the tooling. I pro'ly would have marked the hole centers by hand and used the drill press...even with the lathe tooling at hand.
Next Marty will transform Turds into Turnings.
I enjoy reading everyday shop cleverness by others. We ought to start a thread about that.
Nice work Marty!
John
Thanks John!
I think that is what I enjoy most about this forum;
how others solve "problems" and take the time to explain how they were solved.
Tools and set ups, jigs ect.
No turd turnings, although with a 7 month old Labrador Retriever I sure have plenty of material!
-Marty
In hopes that my raw materials will show up soon I thought I'd better come up with plans for the sand domes.
I usually just scribble dimensions on a post it note and go to the lathe.
I thought it might be beneficial to show some sort of dimensioned drawing....
Again, I am not a machinist or a CAD draftsman!
I did the image in powerpoint (allows me to save it as a jpg) IT IS NOT TO SCALE!!!!
Not sure about that angle on the top, of course "if" I had CAD I could find out......
-Marty
-MJ
Well you can machine parts. Now your drawing them to. Great job, but I think you should learn CAD.
Who knows you may need it in the future ;D
Jerry
This I like. I just made the smokebox front in brass for Bob Uniack's upcoming 1/32 Harriman Consolidated and what a job! Makes you truly appreciate work like this.
John
Well my materials finally arrived!
Here is the top of the sand dome being turned.
I did both tops on each end of a section of .500" rod. I drilled the .106" hole through the stock first. Then I pivoted the headstock to the 15 degrees for the angle on the top.
In the picture the cutter is forming the radius after I made the parting cuts.
Next I am "parting off" the workpiece.
I use a length of styrene rod in the center to keep the piece from flying away and being lost
The two tops of the sand domes with my (Chucks) giant penny.....
And the turning with the crummy cast lid.
(guess what I need to make next?)
Not bad. Now try making one from paper. -- Russ
ssuR,
Off to the corner! (if your not already there!)
Quote from: finescalerr on May 18, 2010, 12:24:24 PM
Not bad. Now try making one from paper. -- Russ
He did!! This was the real one in brass!!!
Great job MJ even if it was ass!!!
Jerry
That is some nice work...can't wait to see the little cap piece.
Marc
Thanks guys, glad you are enjoying this thread.
Spent about an hour finishing the turning on the sand dome bases last evening.
Next is to cut the radius and then new lids.
Not sure how I want to do the lids.
I think the ball final is a little too fancy, but how to remove it for filling?
May be just a flat cap, it is about 6" in diameter.
I dont see any real details in prototype pictures.
Suggestions? Images?
-Marty
My only suggestion is to keep cranking out parts as beautiful as what you have been doing. -- Russ
awesome finial! I prefer fancy over plain anyday. 8)
Philip
Well the fabricating is just about finished, I think.
Here is an in progress shot of one of the sand domes.
The radius has already been cut.
The piece has been turned 90 degrees for drilling the hole for the sand line.
FWIW the bit is a .033"
Finished pics to follow.
-Marty
Here they are resting on top of the boiler;
And a close up (about 10 times it's actual size)
Couple of cab details to add and then I guess painting........ ???........
-Marty
A substantial improvement! The problem now is that anybody who sees the finished model will assume the kit was of higher quality than it actually is. Better affix a warning label.
Once again I want to compliment your metal work. You and Bernard appear to be our Resident Brass Specialists, at least with regard to brass locomotive fabrication, and it is a pleasure to follow your progress.
Russ
Nice...good job on that hole thru a radius!
I looked at that for a second .. then realized what I was seeing. You have a 3-jaw chuck .. chucked .. in a 4-jaw chuck. Is there a shaft on the back of the 3-Jaw? Curious.
Quote from: lab-dad on May 25, 2010, 06:19:17 AM
Here they are resting on top of the boiler;
Really nice. Impressive brasswork.
Marc
Thanks guys!
It has been a challenge - which makes it fun when it works!
Unc I dont think I am on the same planet as Bernard, but thank you for the compliment.
etraxx, No the three jaw is not in a 4 jaw. It is mounted in the rotary table. There is a threaded adapter which allows this. The re is a plate at the base of the rotary table fixing it 90 degrees to the table/mill head.
-Marty