Pair of Remoras

[FichtenFoo]

Also try a google image search on "old tug boats". Great stuff!

[finescalerr]

Tugs are to ships as switchers are to locomotives. And I love switchers. Need I say more? -- Russ

[ricklawler]

Really great stuff guys.  The kit looks absolutely stunning.  Congrats on your successful release, Michael.

Rick

[FichtenFoo]

Thanks guys! More progress pics for the 'Remora' and 'Lillian G' as they're named. Finished the paint and chipping, added decals, and started filters.

http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/tag/remora/

[shropshire lad]

Michael ,

   I am really impressed how your Remora/Lillians are coming along and only hope I am able to do justice to your excellent kit . So far I have primed and rusted everything and have started to topcoat paint  some of the fins . I shall be taking it slowly so that I stand a better chance of not mucking mine up .
   I regret attaching the central light gantry as it makes things harder to paint in that area but I'm sure I'll cope . I think mine will have more red and white on it than other colours , trying to keep it simple .Although I know I am bound to be influenced by what you have done and will probably copy some of the details . I must admit looking at yours reminds me of a mediaeval jousting competition with all the knights hanging their shields onto the sides of the boats !

  The really great thing about building something like this is that you are not constrained by prototype colours . The military modellers , and to a lesser degree railway modellers , have a pretty limited palette of colours they can chose from , so it is very refreshing to be able to go wild and paint the model in any colour you want and there is no one who can tell you that it is wrong .

  I have a question . You like many other modellers use Future Floor acrylic as a sealer coat , can you tell me why you use this in preference to any other product , such as a matt varnish ? Can I get by with using something else or will my model be ruined if I don't use Future ? I know the formula has been changed fairly recently , is the new stuff as good as the old ?  Sorry , that's three questions .

  I am beginning to work out in my head how I hope to display my model . Originally I was going to have it tied up to just part of a floating island , but now I have decided that I need to build the whole island . It will only be a small island , maybe 12-15 inches in diameter , but it will have evidence of previous human occupation . It will have broken away from the mainland and will show evidence of underground workings . I hope I can make this work and also get it done by mid-March . The reason for this is that there is a competition on another forum that closes then and I hope to submit it for consideration . The joke is that it is the Railroad Line Forum and all the other entries will either be kits of buildings or rolling stock . No doubt now that I have let the cat out of the bag here news will filter back to that forum and I will be drummed out of the contest . But , what the heck .

   Keep posting those updates as I need constant inspiration ,

    Nick

[lab-dad]

Nick,
Your secret is safe with me.
Wish I could see their faces when you post!!!
Mj

[nalmeida]

Great work so far Michael, love the diversity in both choices.

Nick, Thomas Tank Engine is a train and has EYES so I'm prety sure flying boats it's not a problem in RR-L, at least I'm there and watching your models is never a bother for me!

[FichtenFoo]

Thanks guys!

Nick: Thanks! Looking forward to how yours comes along. I was thinking of it more like a Viking boat with the shields. I like Ian's style though and how everything has that cobbled together from scrap look. That's why I like sci-fi and these subjects best though... anything goes!

I like Future because it's cheap, fumeless, and customizable. You can dib, hand-paint it, airbrush... make it matte, satin, semi-gloss using Tamiya thinner and Flat Base. I'm sure you can use other acrylic top-coats. I use the acrylic as my weathering stuff is oils and enamels so they don't interact. I'm not sure if the formula has changed or not. Check out this site though for all your Future questions: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

[Mr Potato Head]

Thanks for that, I had seen it before but I forgot about all the other things you can use it for! I have tinted it and it works!
The MacGyver of finishes! 
MPH

[shropshire lad]

Thanks , Michael , for the Future link . I guess as comprehensive a study on the subject as you could wish for .

  Just to show that I am actually doing something and not just hot air here are a couple of crappy shots from last night . Things have progressed a bit since then . It is looking pretty messy at the moment , but it'll get better ( I hope) when I get some more paint on .

   Nick

[FichtenFoo]

Coming alone well! You can see my latest teaser pics (before I do the update) here: (rusty hell!)

http://www.facebook.com/IndustriaMechanika

[Wesleybeks]

Wow Nick, that is coming along nicely. I too will be watching the guys responses when you post your pics for the challenge.

Im sure the first question will be what sort of flat car you will be placing it on HAHA.

[shropshire lad]

Coming alone well! You can see my latest teaser pics (before I do the update) here: (rusty hell!)

http://www.facebook.com/IndustriaMechanika

  The models just get better with each posting . I'm only glad that anyone who will see mine in the "flesh" won't be able to compare it with yours .

  Will Marcus Nicholls be getting one to build for his magazine ? I think he did a good job on your Hornethopter and would be interested to see his version .

  Stupid question I know , but can you just give me a bit more information as to how one goes about applying the transfers/decals . It is 30+ years since I have done any , and I wasn't very good back then .

  Thanks ,

    Nick

[FichtenFoo]

Thanks! Marcus has one on the way so it should be cool to see what he does. For the decals...

They're waterslide decals so will need to go onto a gloss finish otherwise they'll silver under the film. You have to soak them in clean water for a minute or two before they come off the backing. Then I take the decal with tweasers and dip into some "microscale industries" product: Micro-Set. Then I immediately put that wet decal onto the kit and use something to maneuver it into position. Then I brush on some of Microscale Industries: Micro-Sol. This is a decal solvent and will soften the decal making it conform to the surface. It's a one-two punch that works really well. If you need to you can add more of the "sol" and using a wet paper towel over your finger press it on after a few minutes to get them to conform better over bolts, rivets, and other details.

Then satin/flat coat it when done and continue weathering!

[Mr Potato Head]

I have always used water and then micro-set and let it dry completely and then Sol applied multiple times until it conformed. I have tried Sol when it was still wet and it was disastrous if you touched it! I remove every bit of unwanted clear decal material before applying, I may have to go through a few it get it on, but I can usually suck it down and avoid any silver sheen. Oh yea I make my own decals, so that helps too.
MPH